With the stock tube clips installed, my K1 Max cable chain would sometimes get hung up on the gantry in that back left corner. I found replacements on Printables that do not extend below the cable chain that solved the issue. Minor issue with a simple solution, no big deal. That's one of the great things about a 3d printer. It can print it's own solutions to problems or add new nice to have features. Thanks for sharing your cable chain improvement, great content as always.
Yeah, guess that a few people have said that their max has an issue as well, I have the MAX, but I haven't seen it yet...I had already replaced one of the clips which were hanging down. I think simple zip ties also work just fine too.
I have done most of the mods you have done. The removal of the ptfe tube from the chain is a very common change. I did mod my cable chain and raised it up a bit as well. But I like your solution. There are quite a few printed mods that raise the chain but they involve taking the cable off the toolhead board. I will go find them on printables and try them. The other common upgrade is a riser for the top. They work ok. I tried quite a few of them so far. I also bought some foam tape to seal up the door and top lid. We will see how it turns out. Cheers
Do you think we could get the smaller cable chain, if the tube is outside of the chain, we don't need all of that space, and that could help a bit with how easily it moves around. I wanted something that worked well, but it had to look like nothing was changed, and we're pretty close here, Having the exact shouldered machine screw would have been helpful but I didn't want anyone to have to spend any money on it, or at least as little as possible. I am working on a solution for the riser, but it's not quite like anything you've seen before. It's still in the design stages, I want to think about it a bit more, it needs to solve several problems at the same time, and provide some extra features as well.
Raise the cover up and get rid of the 90-degree bend in the PTFE tube, that's what's causing your print quality problems. Take a piece of PTFE tubing and a piece of filament, bend tubing to 90 degrees. Does the filament slide through the tubing with ease or does it drag. Also, when you retract the filament the drag on the filament can cause quick release fitting to pop out of the extruder
Funny I just opened your last video to watch and was wondering when the next would be. This is essentially what they did for the K1C, but they still needed to give it a bit more space to roam. Topless no real issue, but with it on, still kinda knocking as you see. They could have made the opening slightly larger and had the lid fit around the outside of the top. Not a fan of the sharp Bowden angle either. Kinda sad this is a problem on a production unit, but ya know, it's Creality. Gotta have something to complain about or fix! Good work.
For sure, yeah, those sharp angles are no good for friction, it's going to occasionally cause more resistance, having it raised up helps a little with that, and having the tube on top also seems to help there as well. The next upgrade I want to finish up and provide will address the chain hitting the inside of the top and I'll make it available to everyone. I'm also looking for a different cable chain option, for the K1, it can be smaller, but that would probably sag more, or other options? I also looked at raising up the frame at the top, but that's no simple task. Shame they didn't just give it some more space.
Thank you. The noise of the chain slapping the side is incredibly irritating, and it is actually scratching the side of the top. And, my machine only has 2 magnets as well. I will definitely print those parts and give it a try. And, I now know what the mysterious length of 3M rubber tape is that was included with my printer, but with no explanation...a factory-provided silencer.
Well, after putting on the length of rubber tape that Creality included with my printer, I found out that was a bad idea. The chain scraped the rubber and with every pass peeled a small bit of the rubber away, leaving a pile of rubber shavings lying on the floor of the printer. Unfortunately the glue on the back of the rubber strip adheres to the plastic cover way better than the rubber strip... I installed the two parts of the chain camel, but in order to remove the fan cover I have to remove the chain clip riser. The amount of material blocking the fan cover from passing by is miniscule, so I hit the base of the riser block with a file to give it a taper. But, your fix definitely keeps the chain from slapping the side of the frame. Thank you.
When I recieved my K1 I wondered, why they include some sort of a rubber tape with adhesive, it had a strange measurement, I didn't know what it's used for. So I put it away, but now, as I saw your video, where you put the silicone pad on for dampening the chain, the rubber tape came into my mind. It's the exact length and width to fit on the left side of the lid. So creality is actually sending this "mod" with the printer.
You're welcome! I think they did a pretty good job of addressing most of the issues. I think they still need to improve the extruder setup, it looks sleek, but it lacks support on both sides of the gears and causes them to come out of alignment when pressure is applied by the filament coming between them.
Hi. I noticed that you have some sort of adaptive mesh macro. I tried using KAMP on my K1, however it worked only on small prints. Whenever I attempted to print something bigger, the printer would crash. Can you help me to install some sort of adaptive mesh, just like you have? Greetings from Brazil
Hi Mike. I wish there was a similar solution to address the cable chain on the Max. At certain positions when it's printing, the chain on mine can be clearly seen/heard dropping on to and hitting the horizontal (x/y) axis / rails. It only needs to be lifted a few mm. Excellent video btw! 🙂
Is there any way you can take a short video and send it my way? I can probably create something. I have a max as well, but it's possible that they've already fixed it from factory, or maybe I just haven't experienced that yet.
I'm glad you like it, there are two options for the back mount now, the slimmer version seems to work better because my lid was warped and provided more space than it should have.
Ill try this right away, I have a small riser on my lid, so it will be interesting to see how it interacts. Also I read somewhere that Creality only put 2 magnets in the lid because 4 made it too hard to remove!
Ah, okay, I and I guess I didn't mention that partly the lid was raising up because I didn't have the tube inside the chain, the chain also became very stiff with the tube inside, it didn't seem like such a good idea. It looks as though they've gone back to having it inside the chain on the K1C, but on the Max it is outside from stock.
About the 2 magnets, I was wondering why the magnet corners were the easy ones to lift up, the socket cap screw heads were lodging in the blank magnet holes in the cover. After printing a 5 hour ASA print I thought I'd have to break the cover to get it off. I finally drilled them slightly oversized to accommodate magnets I already had laying around, and now with 4 magnets it all works well.
so expensive printer and still need to make changes to it. Sad. Why do we pay so much money and it still need to get tinkered. This is not good for what it cost. Wake up. Great fix. Thanks for a great video.
There are a few small things yes. I still like the printer, I think for the price, it's pretty good. The K1C will have most of these issues resolved unfortunately they needed to release a new version of the printer to do it. I just wish the frame was a little bit taller, it would have been perfect!
"Wake up" he says. You're new to 3d printing, I guess. Particularly new enough to never have had messed with a printer from before Bambu and K1s came out. Because they were slow, clunky, and required so much more work, printers today are practically plug and play. Frankly, it's a weird view.
Thanks! That's awesome, I wanted to design a similar mod for a bit while. Now I just have to print yours :) I love your mods simple and effective. Ps: I've made a CAD model of the K1 available on MakerWorld if you don't want to scan the printer next time ;)
Hey Mike, this video has been out for awhile and you’ve a sizeable membership so I don’t expect a response. I just got the K1 SE and it doesnt even come with a cable chain. I’d be pressed to put one on if I could see what the benefit would be?
I don't know how to use CAD, but it would be nice, if somebody would make a riser for that cover, that would sit on the tapered top frame. It would increase the space for the cable.
Thanks! It didn't take too long. We did find that for some people the back riser was a bit high, I've created a slightly shorter version which works just as well and linked those.
I had a look at those first, but I wasn't sure about the thread sizes, are they m3 to m3? I ended up making my own on the metal lathe, but I wanted something that was cheap and easy for as many people as possible.
@@NeedItMakeIt they are indeed! Mine are labeled as M3 x 6+6 but that's just the height spec as far as I'm aware. Very handy to have for small projects like these!
@@xAsphyxiatee That's a great way then, nice job. I had a look at those, but I wasn't confident with it and thought I'd better not recommend it, but if it works go for it. I have an old computer downstairs, I'll have a look inside to see if I can scrounge one up.
@@NeedItMakeIt can’t seem to post link, I feel my comment disappears Go on Printables and copy paste this title K1C Style chain riser Extruder side It will come up
@@DSPrints_ www.printables.com/model/767335-k1c-style-chain-riser-extruder-side Maybe I need to approve it? I shall check. Here is the link, looks nice, good work on that!
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you sir. Good work on yours! You’re a man of knowledge. Please come up with a way to get rid of resonating and vibrations within the frame I was thinking of an idea of,, where the end caps for the gantry bolts to the frame, to try add a shim or thin foam to add some dampening .. I got a terrible noise during gyroid infil. But soon as I release ONE screw it goes 😅
The k1 max has too much of a bend where the filament goes into the extruder, I had to move the clip holding the PTFE tube back so as to increase the radius of the bend
Yeah, I think that path is a bit to restrictive, both for the K1 and the Max versions. It's a shame that we need the tube at all, we're not swapping colors here, it's really just there to make sure the filament has a protective path and also to make sure the distance from the spool to extruder remain the same. Could we find a way to do without it?
@@Hilmi12 I'll give it a go, I want to see if it's really needed. I can see for the Bambu and AMS setup, maybe when we have the lid on the restricted path would cause breakage or twisting of the filament. It'd be better to have a system that recoiled the filament with just a light pressure to keep some tension on it.
LOL, you know me well :) I have so many video ideas, it's getting hard to choose which to make first. I think I need to get better at making these so I can really crank them out!
This works for the Max as well I just didn't see the need on the max, the cable seems to tuck into the frame fairly well. We could add a little sticky silicone in there as well to quiet it down. I'm also looking at other cable chain options. There are more flexible options out there and also smaller ones which would work for the K1. The max seems to run 2 wires to the head, but the K1 only has one wire in there. I can't imagine the laser scanner needs the extra thick wire in there.
@@LaxLegion Yup, it is a good idea, I removed the clip mid-cable on mine as well, it was hitting the rod as well, not a big problem just annoying that it was making so much noise every time it moved.
@@Rotorhead124 Do you have the Max? It seems to work without the back riser, but it's not ideal since it's starting to rub on the top, but if you have the Max, the Camel is all you need, I have on my my Max now and it works well.
I know a lot of people enjoy doing it, like working on your car, it's a hobby in itself, but on the other side, when you buy something it should work without having to adjust anything, if you choose to modd it, that's your call. I just wish that frame was a little bit taller and we could sink the chain inside instead, and that top hat needs to go. A simple glass top would be ideal, or a lid system on a hinge.
@@NeedItMakeIt Fully agree quite a few people rather work on their printer instead of just printing, in saying this it still puts my head away that new printer needs lid risers and cable chain risers because they still don't want to fix this issue but they just know these fiddlers will fix it them selves..... Its like buying a car and wiper blades keep hitting you're bonnet but these people still defend the design :DDD
@@infinitewars6373 I spend a lot of time designing and one trap that I fall into is going too far before fully testing ;sometimes when you go too far, it's hard to go back and do it right without starting over from scratch... which I do (always faster the 2nd time). I think Creality knew that there was some solid competition coming out and they were pressured to release something sooner than they may have wanted. You're right about the fiddlers though, some people enjoy it. I don't mind doing it, but I'm not a huge fan of modding, I prefer it to look like a stock machine. Most importantly is that it needs to work well and hopefully you don't need to sink much into it to get the good results you're looking for.
Did you just realize something people have been doing for several years? Ender 3 extruder arm gets a groove worn in it, you're literally holding your filament line, as you print a new one. Fuck,, man. The views people that're much newer in the space hold are so wildly privileged. Buy an Ender 3, tell me the K1 is "wild" This is the 80s of PCs. This is STILL the wild west of the ENTIRE technology. Are you going to complain about having a car and working on it?
@@LampDoesVideogame there is difference something not reliable and needing attention from time to time, but if you started talking about cars imagine you bought a car and windscreen wipers are not working from factory like lidar does not work on this thing as well as ai failure detection, they expect you to fix cable chain hanging onto the rail! I want product not a concept……
I spent a lot of time trying to figure it out and it seemed to be mainly on Gyroid infill. I think it could be a combination of issues, the flex under the bed, the nozzle rubbing on the filament and general vibrations.
Yo SIMPLE fix, it wasnt simple 😂 i've loosen 2 screws where plastic drag chain mount is connected with aluminium holde, rotated drag chain mount a bit so the arc of the chain is above the frame. Tighten screws - done.
What I don’t understand is why would creality think it’s ok to sell these they way they are? I bought the k1 thinking they were a solid unit until the same thing happened to me. It’s unbelievable. They should offer customers the solution. It’s ok tho cause I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CREALITY PRODUCT! That’s why I got 3 Bambu printers from having they crapality experience
My guess is that they knew there was some solid competition coming out and they wanted to release something as well, maybe they weren't ready for some really good printers to go up against their products. Personally I don't mind, I like to tinker here and there and try to get the most out of them, and they are at a different price-point. Creality has also always produced printers which are meant to be upgraded and I think they're just trying to continue that trend. Personally I still enjoy my K1 and Max, but the X1C is a superior printer, build volume on the Max comes in handy sometimes.
Thanks for sharing all this enhancements! I will add them to my K1. I wonder how well it combines with taking off some chain joins (two in my case) following this video th-cam.com/users/shortszNmsJB99Xec?si=hV5jA6C1-8aAnpgc
Don't act like these upgrades were "your" idea. They already have been thought of and done, just say you wanted to take a shot at designing your own versions of the upgrades. Don't lie man.
Well MAN, I spend all day and night in my shop designing and creating and inventing, I rarely watch any TV and when I do it's X-files after the kids go to bed. When I have a problem, I come up with a solution. The work and the design all comes from my ability to solve problems, as you can see from any of my videos. Most ideas have been done before, if you've thought of it, chances are that someone else has already... what they have not done, is taken the time to carefully create a solution for everyone, test it and share it. I'd suggest that you take some time and try to gain some perspective and maybe ask a question or two before making bold statements. I say good day!
With the stock tube clips installed, my K1 Max cable chain would sometimes get hung up on the gantry in that back left corner. I found replacements on Printables that do not extend below the cable chain that solved the issue. Minor issue with a simple solution, no big deal. That's one of the great things about a 3d printer. It can print it's own solutions to problems or add new nice to have features. Thanks for sharing your cable chain improvement, great content as always.
Yeah, guess that a few people have said that their max has an issue as well, I have the MAX, but I haven't seen it yet...I had already replaced one of the clips which were hanging down. I think simple zip ties also work just fine too.
I have done most of the mods you have done. The removal of the ptfe tube from the chain is a very common change. I did mod my cable chain and raised it up a bit as well. But I like your solution. There are quite a few printed mods that raise the chain but they involve taking the cable off the toolhead board. I will go find them on printables and try them. The other common upgrade is a riser for the top. They work ok. I tried quite a few of them so far. I also bought some foam tape to seal up the door and top lid. We will see how it turns out. Cheers
Do you think we could get the smaller cable chain, if the tube is outside of the chain, we don't need all of that space, and that could help a bit with how easily it moves around.
I wanted something that worked well, but it had to look like nothing was changed, and we're pretty close here, Having the exact shouldered machine screw would have been helpful but I didn't want anyone to have to spend any money on it, or at least as little as possible.
I am working on a solution for the riser, but it's not quite like anything you've seen before. It's still in the design stages, I want to think about it a bit more, it needs to solve several problems at the same time, and provide some extra features as well.
Good job on this upgrade. This has been a thorn in the side of my K1 the whole time I've had it. Great work, please keep it up.
Raise the cover up and get rid of the 90-degree bend in the PTFE tube, that's what's causing your print quality problems. Take a piece of PTFE tubing and a piece of filament, bend tubing to 90 degrees. Does the filament slide through the tubing with ease or does it drag. Also, when you retract the filament the drag on the filament can cause quick release fitting to pop out of the extruder
Funny I just opened your last video to watch and was wondering when the next would be. This is essentially what they did for the K1C, but they still needed to give it a bit more space to roam. Topless no real issue, but with it on, still kinda knocking as you see. They could have made the opening slightly larger and had the lid fit around the outside of the top. Not a fan of the sharp Bowden angle either. Kinda sad this is a problem on a production unit, but ya know, it's Creality. Gotta have something to complain about or fix! Good work.
For sure, yeah, those sharp angles are no good for friction, it's going to occasionally cause more resistance, having it raised up helps a little with that, and having the tube on top also seems to help there as well.
The next upgrade I want to finish up and provide will address the chain hitting the inside of the top and I'll make it available to everyone. I'm also looking for a different cable chain option, for the K1, it can be smaller, but that would probably sag more, or other options? I also looked at raising up the frame at the top, but that's no simple task. Shame they didn't just give it some more space.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'd be tempted to skip the chain entirely and just let the Bowden tube support everything, hahaha.
Thank you. The noise of the chain slapping the side is incredibly irritating, and it is actually scratching the side of the top. And, my machine only has 2 magnets as well. I will definitely print those parts and give it a try. And, I now know what the mysterious length of 3M rubber tape is that was included with my printer, but with no explanation...a factory-provided silencer.
Well, after putting on the length of rubber tape that Creality included with my printer, I found out that was a bad idea. The chain scraped the rubber and with every pass peeled a small bit of the rubber away, leaving a pile of rubber shavings lying on the floor of the printer. Unfortunately the glue on the back of the rubber strip adheres to the plastic cover way better than the rubber strip... I installed the two parts of the chain camel, but in order to remove the fan cover I have to remove the chain clip riser. The amount of material blocking the fan cover from passing by is miniscule, so I hit the base of the riser block with a file to give it a taper. But, your fix definitely keeps the chain from slapping the side of the frame. Thank you.
Love the name of the solution. First a sloth, now a camel. Looking forward to the next!
Some animals just don't get enough love :) 🐫
When I recieved my K1 I wondered, why they include some sort of a rubber tape with adhesive, it had a strange measurement, I didn't know what it's used for. So I put it away, but now, as I saw your video, where you put the silicone pad on for dampening the chain, the rubber tape came into my mind. It's the exact length and width to fit on the left side of the lid. So creality is actually sending this "mod" with the printer.
Well I will darned, that would have been perfect, I had already cut mine into pieces when I modded the door gap, but this would have been way better!
I nerver changed anything on my Artillery X1. But this mod will be my first on my K1. Thank you. Very good job.
Thank you for that last bit about the K1C. I just ordered one and wondered if it had the same problems. Great content and thank you again.
You're welcome! I think they did a pretty good job of addressing most of the issues. I think they still need to improve the extruder setup, it looks sleek, but it lacks support on both sides of the gears and causes them to come out of alignment when pressure is applied by the filament coming between them.
Hi. I noticed that you have some sort of adaptive mesh macro. I tried using KAMP on my K1, however it worked only on small prints. Whenever I attempted to print something bigger, the printer would crash. Can you help me to install some sort of adaptive mesh, just like you have? Greetings from Brazil
Now I need to clean my display.. I burst laughing at the censored segment of topless printer. Thanks, Mike! 😃
I just had to do it! I thought this was a better option than to see me with my shirt off... No problem!
Hi Mike. I wish there was a similar solution to address the cable chain on the Max. At certain positions when it's printing, the chain on mine can be clearly seen/heard dropping on to and hitting the horizontal (x/y) axis / rails. It only needs to be lifted a few mm. Excellent video btw! 🙂
Is there any way you can take a short video and send it my way? I can probably create something. I have a max as well, but it's possible that they've already fixed it from factory, or maybe I just haven't experienced that yet.
Commenting for the algorithm lol. I do enjoy your videos, I used your shims the other day to level out my K1 bed, looking forward to the next video.
This is great, really helped my sagging chain.
I'm glad you like it, there are two options for the back mount now, the slimmer version seems to work better because my lid was warped and provided more space than it should have.
Your videos are really useful. Дякую
Thank you!
Ill try this right away, I have a small riser on my lid, so it will be interesting to see how it interacts. Also I read somewhere that Creality only put 2 magnets in the lid because 4 made it too hard to remove!
Ah, okay, I and I guess I didn't mention that partly the lid was raising up because I didn't have the tube inside the chain, the chain also became very stiff with the tube inside, it didn't seem like such a good idea. It looks as though they've gone back to having it inside the chain on the K1C, but on the Max it is outside from stock.
About the 2 magnets, I was wondering why the magnet corners were the easy ones to lift up, the socket cap screw heads were lodging in the blank magnet holes in the cover. After printing a 5 hour ASA print I thought I'd have to break the cover to get it off. I finally drilled them slightly oversized to accommodate magnets I already had laying around, and now with 4 magnets it all works well.
@@dasworkshop4967 I'm going to try that, you're right, sometimes the lid sticks too. Let me give that a go and see if it helps.
so expensive printer and still need to make changes to it. Sad. Why do we pay so much money and it still need to get tinkered. This is not good for what it cost. Wake up. Great fix. Thanks for a great video.
There are a few small things yes. I still like the printer, I think for the price, it's pretty good. The K1C will have most of these issues resolved unfortunately they needed to release a new version of the printer to do it. I just wish the frame was a little bit taller, it would have been perfect!
"Wake up" he says.
You're new to 3d printing, I guess. Particularly new enough to never have had messed with a printer from before Bambu and K1s came out. Because they were slow, clunky, and required so much more work, printers today are practically plug and play.
Frankly, it's a weird view.
I really enjoy your content. Thanks for teaching us more about these printers and how to make them better!
Is there a link for the Discord?
discord.gg/uWhhBRbe Love you have you there!
Thanks! That's awesome, I wanted to design a similar mod for a bit while. Now I just have to print yours :) I love your mods simple and effective.
Ps: I've made a CAD model of the K1 available on MakerWorld if you don't want to scan the printer next time ;)
Hey Mike, this video has been out for awhile and you’ve a sizeable membership so I don’t expect a response. I just got the K1 SE and it doesnt even come with a cable chain. I’d be pressed to put one on if I could see what the benefit would be?
this is perfect, thanks
O projeto top secret está pronto ???
Thanks for another Great video.
Thanks so much! Many more to come!
Where is the quick or the simple? Great solution but not a quick or simple solution, definitely not both
"And you can probably do this with the stuff you have around your shop"
"Just drill and tap some holes in this metal piece"
I don't know how to use CAD, but it would be nice, if somebody would make a riser for that cover, that would sit on the tapered top frame. It would increase the space for the cable.
Very cool, thanks!!!
Thanks!
Great video as always 👍😃
Thanks! Appreciate the continued support
brilliant!
Thanks! It didn't take too long. We did find that for some people the back riser was a bit high, I've created a slightly shorter version which works just as well and linked those.
Thank you
It's my pleasure, I hope it works well for you!
Just an fyi. Motherboard standoffs work great for raising the toolhead side mount.
I had a look at those first, but I wasn't sure about the thread sizes, are they m3 to m3? I ended up making my own on the metal lathe, but I wanted something that was cheap and easy for as many people as possible.
@@NeedItMakeIt they are indeed! Mine are labeled as M3 x 6+6 but that's just the height spec as far as I'm aware. Very handy to have for small projects like these!
@@xAsphyxiatee That's a great way then, nice job. I had a look at those, but I wasn't confident with it and thought I'd better not recommend it, but if it works go for it. I have an old computer downstairs, I'll have a look inside to see if I can scrounge one up.
Ive designed a riser at the hot end side that’s the style of K1C
Nice, can you send a link? From the short video the head riser looks round, though it's hard to tell.
@@NeedItMakeIttrying to post link. Not sure where comment disappears
@@NeedItMakeIt can’t seem to post link, I feel my comment disappears
Go on Printables and copy paste this title
K1C Style chain riser Extruder side
It will come up
@@DSPrints_ www.printables.com/model/767335-k1c-style-chain-riser-extruder-side Maybe I need to approve it? I shall check. Here is the link, looks nice, good work on that!
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you sir. Good work on yours! You’re a man of knowledge. Please come up with a way to get rid of resonating and vibrations within the frame
I was thinking of an idea of,, where the end caps for the gantry bolts to the frame, to try add a shim or thin foam to add some dampening .. I got a terrible noise during gyroid infil. But soon as I release ONE screw it goes 😅
👍 very nice job
Love your chanel
Thank you! Lots more to come.
for the k1c you need to do the opposite. It’s needed to lower the cable 🤒
The k1 max has too much of a bend where the filament goes into the extruder, I had to move the clip holding the PTFE tube back so as to increase the radius of the bend
Yeah, I think that path is a bit to restrictive, both for the K1 and the Max versions. It's a shame that we need the tube at all, we're not swapping colors here, it's really just there to make sure the filament has a protective path and also to make sure the distance from the spool to extruder remain the same. Could we find a way to do without it?
@NeedItMakeIt when I print carbonfil I just remove the lid and load from a filament drier placed higher up
@@Hilmi12 I'll give it a go, I want to see if it's really needed. I can see for the Bambu and AMS setup, maybe when we have the lid on the restricted path would cause breakage or twisting of the filament. It'd be better to have a system that recoiled the filament with just a light pressure to keep some tension on it.
@@NeedItMakeIt i sense a video coming
LOL, you know me well :) I have so many video ideas, it's getting hard to choose which to make first. I think I need to get better at making these so I can really crank them out!
Cableshain with cover on its very awul Solution. The ptfe and the cable to hotend bends to hard. I make a Version without cablechain.
Send me over a link, I'd like to see it. A taller cabinet would have been a great solution and avoid the problem.
something for the k1 max, concern is i use the top all the time
This works for the Max as well I just didn't see the need on the max, the cable seems to tuck into the frame fairly well. We could add a little sticky silicone in there as well to quiet it down. I'm also looking at other cable chain options. There are more flexible options out there and also smaller ones which would work for the K1. The max seems to run 2 wires to the head, but the K1 only has one wire in there. I can't imagine the laser scanner needs the extra thick wire in there.
@@NeedItMakeIt thanks, the cable chain kind of rubs on the rail so i thought it would be better to raise it a little
@@LaxLegion Yup, it is a good idea, I removed the clip mid-cable on mine as well, it was hitting the rod as well, not a big problem just annoying that it was making so much noise every time it moved.
Mine hits the rail all the time. How would it do if I put a camel under it, without a rear riser?@@NeedItMakeIt
@@Rotorhead124 Do you have the Max? It seems to work without the back riser, but it's not ideal since it's starting to rub on the top, but if you have the Max, the Camel is all you need, I have on my my Max now and it works well.
If you actualy think about this this is wild, you buy a printer to finish it off, i have 2 k1’s but dont think any more k1’s will be bought
I know a lot of people enjoy doing it, like working on your car, it's a hobby in itself, but on the other side, when you buy something it should work without having to adjust anything, if you choose to modd it, that's your call. I just wish that frame was a little bit taller and we could sink the chain inside instead, and that top hat needs to go. A simple glass top would be ideal, or a lid system on a hinge.
@@NeedItMakeIt Fully agree quite a few people rather work on their printer instead of just printing, in saying this it still puts my head away that new printer needs lid risers and cable chain risers because they still don't want to fix this issue but they just know these fiddlers will fix it them selves..... Its like buying a car and wiper blades keep hitting you're bonnet but these people still defend the design :DDD
@@infinitewars6373 I spend a lot of time designing and one trap that I fall into is going too far before fully testing ;sometimes when you go too far, it's hard to go back and do it right without starting over from scratch... which I do (always faster the 2nd time).
I think Creality knew that there was some solid competition coming out and they were pressured to release something sooner than they may have wanted.
You're right about the fiddlers though, some people enjoy it. I don't mind doing it, but I'm not a huge fan of modding, I prefer it to look like a stock machine. Most importantly is that it needs to work well and hopefully you don't need to sink much into it to get the good results you're looking for.
Did you just realize something people have been doing for several years?
Ender 3 extruder arm gets a groove worn in it, you're literally holding your filament line, as you print a new one. Fuck,, man. The views people that're much newer in the space hold are so wildly privileged. Buy an Ender 3, tell me the K1 is "wild"
This is the 80s of PCs. This is STILL the wild west of the ENTIRE technology. Are you going to complain about having a car and working on it?
@@LampDoesVideogame there is difference something not reliable and needing attention from time to time, but if you started talking about cars imagine you bought a car and windscreen wipers are not working from factory like lidar does not work on this thing as well as ai failure detection, they expect you to fix cable chain hanging onto the rail! I want product not a concept……
That cheapy chain is a big problem mine come apart after only 40 hrs of use
Mine broke apart at the back and bent because it was colliding too much, I suppose a new better chain is an option, or no chain at all.
@@NeedItMakeIt If I leave a pace of 75 mm on the left it's good I was thinking of using steel links
@@awesomusmaximus3766 Steel, I've never seen this used on a 3D printer, I would imagine it would be noisy would it not? Maybe it has bushings?
@@NeedItMakeIt The added weight would also pose a problem
I suggest printing at 50% steady speed Iv'e found this mitigates the stress on the chain by much
11:25 my print make this sound alot, this horrible noise
I spent a lot of time trying to figure it out and it seemed to be mainly on Gyroid infill. I think it could be a combination of issues, the flex under the bed, the nozzle rubbing on the filament and general vibrations.
Look under the Printer. The metal plate on my Printer makes noise also.
Yo SIMPLE fix, it wasnt simple 😂
i've loosen 2 screws where plastic drag chain mount is connected with aluminium holde, rotated drag chain mount a bit so the arc of the chain is above the frame. Tighten screws - done.
That sounds nice, could you post something? I assume you've adjusted the head mount as well, as that was the main cause of the problem.
0:53 demonetized 😂😂😂😂
Haha, risky business eh.
Topless. Lol!😂
Be free!
So I admire your ingenuity but not much of your video is "Quick and Simple" lol
What I don’t understand is why would creality think it’s ok to sell these they way they are? I bought the k1 thinking they were a solid unit until the same thing happened to me. It’s unbelievable. They should offer customers the solution. It’s ok tho cause I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CREALITY PRODUCT! That’s why I got 3 Bambu printers from having they crapality experience
My guess is that they knew there was some solid competition coming out and they wanted to release something as well, maybe they weren't ready for some really good printers to go up against their products.
Personally I don't mind, I like to tinker here and there and try to get the most out of them, and they are at a different price-point.
Creality has also always produced printers which are meant to be upgraded and I think they're just trying to continue that trend.
Personally I still enjoy my K1 and Max, but the X1C is a superior printer, build volume on the Max comes in handy sometimes.
Thanks for sharing all this enhancements! I will add them to my K1. I wonder how well it combines with taking off some chain joins (two in my case) following this video th-cam.com/users/shortszNmsJB99Xec?si=hV5jA6C1-8aAnpgc
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HAHA, awesome, thanks for that!
Promo sm
Don't act like these upgrades were "your" idea. They already have been thought of and done, just say you wanted to take a shot at designing your own versions of the upgrades. Don't lie man.
Well MAN, I spend all day and night in my shop designing and creating and inventing, I rarely watch any TV and when I do it's X-files after the kids go to bed. When I have a problem, I come up with a solution. The work and the design all comes from my ability to solve problems, as you can see from any of my videos.
Most ideas have been done before, if you've thought of it, chances are that someone else has already... what they have not done, is taken the time to carefully create a solution for everyone, test it and share it.
I'd suggest that you take some time and try to gain some perspective and maybe ask a question or two before making bold statements.
I say good day!
Well said MAN lol
@@stayreadyto3dprint I'll have to come up with a disclaimer for future videos so as not to offend anyone.
@@NeedItMakeIt now a days I guess that’s necessary lol
mine is already higher but it still pops the lid up?