I was wondering about the choice of music at the point of the video before you start the auto bed level, but as soon as the mesh started I realized what a good choice it was. Good job! I love matching beats of the video to music. It flowed really well.
Nice job! I had a CR-10S with an awful bed that Creality refused to replace under warranty,. I had to BEND it by hand, dead blow hammers, and sacrifice of a goat at midnight with a filament noose to get level, so you should be happy they only warped it a little ... LOL! I finally got it really close, and with an upgrade to a Duet motherboard with leveling got it really dialed in. Also went with silicone spacers as a part of the final solution. My how the industry has changed in the last 9 years, eh?
Fantastic video! Thank you so much... I managed to get my K1 Max diff from 1.4257 to 1.0555 on the first go. Made the washers myself with 0.4mm copper. It's not perfect yet... Will keep tweaking
Find the machines IP in the setting and then in a web browser type in the IP and it will open klipper showing the mesh. You printer and computer need to be on the same network for it to have access
I saw someone else used those with thumb screws to adjust the height. Definitely gives you more adjustability but mine happened to work out with the washers. Should be something you only adjust once.
With mine its not the quality at all of the prints it seems to compensate well enough.. It's the very obvious warp on the body of the build plate.. .no lie from halfway to the back of the block it's like running your hand over very shallow ripples... I didn't notice until I went to wipe it down the first time... And I can't unsee it now 😑 but the mesh doesn't seem to pick it up at all.. but again that looks like a Pringle aswell... But it prints really well.. so I'm ... I'm very very confused haha😅
This was how I originally did mine, but actually made shims from squares of postit note with a hole punched in the centre, but after several attempts (got fairly close), I opted for silicone spacers and wheels underneath the bed so that could make finer adjustments.
I don’t think these should be marketed as auto leveling if this kind of manual compensation is still needed. What’s more, they don’t make it particularly easy to level like they did on the old Enders.
it seem more of a issue of quality control. Some people have no issues at all with the machines. Seems some beds were just too far out of level from the factory for the software to compensate for. I haven't had a issue once I adjusted mine
@ it seems like enough people have had issues that the printer’s ability to maintain level wasn’t tested with a large enough sample. I haven’t heard many Bambu customers with a similar issue.
Yup, my P1S is my go to machine for anything important, just with the bed was bigger :) Although I just did another upgrade to my K1 max that has me more confident I can trust it again. Just working on that video now
No rooting. You can access klipper by just putting the printer IP in your browser. I made that rest print in orca slicer just by placing some cylinders and cubes and scaling them to the size I wanted and only 1 layer thick.
ciao complimenti per I video vorrei chiederti un info, sulla mia K1max vorrei fara la Mesh del piatto per vedere come sta messo. puoi indicarmi come collego la stampante al Pc e come eseguo la Mesh? grazie
In Creality print you can go to the job menu and see your printers ip address once connected. Then you can just type that ip address into your web browser and it will open the clipper interface I show in my video
@min0rmeme108 the mesh can be seen in the fluid interface. I think you can get to it from the Creality slicer or at lease you can get the up address of your machine and they type that into a web browser and get to it that way. But your machine needs to be hooked up to your home network to access it
@DaveRigDesign thanks for the reply I'm actively trying to figure this thing out just started 3d printing like 4 days ago started well enough and hit the fan yesterday
New SUB here with a thumbs up however I can't sanded a part that comes with the machine, it is not in me blood to hurt my machine, but one of my washers I could careless about oldtimer Baby-boomer here however you got it done 👍👍 up!
@@DaveRigDesign idk i did it on my k1c and now i just have 0.2 mm total difference and getting perfect first layer every time. Also it just took 2 minutes. I didnt believe it until i see the results.
I guess it depends how the bed it out of alignment. People add adjustment wheels so you can dial it in perfect but I didn’t bother cuz I figure it only needs to be adjusted once
I just did with the belt skipping to align the front but the problem is that the back left is -0.6 and the back right is 0.5 but both the fronts are like 0.1 I will need to use washers on the back left to raise it up.
Well ... That's a fine sentiment but as someone who's had a Bambu Labs X1C Carbon with AMS since they released them I'll point out that BL had a MAJOR problem with their early releases. Like people talking about Class Action Lawsuits big. On their official forum, a "problem with bed leveling" thread is the THIRD largest discussion EVER with over 65,500 views currently (5/24). That's NOT counting Reddit or Discord posts who have similar numbers! As an owner of Creality and BL products (multiples) I agree that BL makes a killer product but you're overstating things a bit here.😉 Especially with bed level, as BL has blood on their hands form that subject. Just sayin ...! Cheers!
@DaveRigDesign I purchased one and sold it on 2 weeks later. No quality control whatsoever. I fixed the bed level which was way off but still, bad print quality, bad filament feed design, and many failed prints. I would advise against purchasing this printer.
@leickenberg I’ve had some issues but not terrible. Not as plug&play as the ended 3 V3. I’m wondering if the extrusions issues are due to the tight turns in the filament path. I may change it and see if that fixes anything.
@DaveRigDesign the filament path is one of the problems. The other one is the extruder itself, I had the latest version with unicorn nozzle and still the filament would get stuck in the extruder which means disassembly to remove the shredded filament. Had several instances where the printer would just go on and move in thin air as it doesn't detect no flow scenarios. Glad it works for you but I am looking for a more reliable product with less quality issues.
I was wondering about the choice of music at the point of the video before you start the auto bed level, but as soon as the mesh started I realized what a good choice it was. Good job! I love matching beats of the video to music. It flowed really well.
Thanks. I gravitate to a 80/90s vibe. Doesn’t always work, but when it does it’s 🔥
This is epic! Thank you! I have autism so super simple solutions are always appreciated.
Thanks. Simple solutions are the best solutions :)
Nice job! I had a CR-10S with an awful bed that Creality refused to replace under warranty,. I had to BEND it by hand, dead blow hammers, and sacrifice of a goat at midnight with a filament noose to get level, so you should be happy they only warped it a little ... LOL!
I finally got it really close, and with an upgrade to a Duet motherboard with leveling got it really dialed in. Also went with silicone spacers as a part of the final solution. My how the industry has changed in the last 9 years, eh?
Fantastic video! Thank you so much... I managed to get my K1 Max diff from 1.4257 to 1.0555 on the first go. Made the washers myself with 0.4mm copper. It's not perfect yet... Will keep tweaking
Awesome. 👍🏻
It would be great if you would also explain how we can see the bed mesh
Find the machines IP in the setting and then in a web browser type in the IP and it will open klipper showing the mesh.
You printer and computer need to be on the same network for it to have access
Very clever solution!! I’m gonna try it
I used 12mm silicone spacers, work great.
I saw someone else used those with thumb screws to adjust the height. Definitely gives you more adjustability but mine happened to work out with the washers.
Should be something you only adjust once.
With mine its not the quality at all of the prints it seems to compensate well enough.. It's the very obvious warp on the body of the build plate.. .no lie from halfway to the back of the block it's like running your hand over very shallow ripples... I didn't notice until I went to wipe it down the first time... And I can't unsee it now 😑 but the mesh doesn't seem to pick it up at all.. but again that looks like a Pringle aswell... But it prints really well.. so I'm ... I'm very very confused haha😅
this guy over here dehydrated af with that hanging cuticle
I have to ask how do you figure out what corner is what on the bed mesh?
Look at the x/y coordinates. 0,0 is the front left corner of the bed. Where the door hinges are.
This was how I originally did mine, but actually made shims from squares of postit note with a hole punched in the centre, but after several attempts (got fairly close), I opted for silicone spacers and wheels underneath the bed so that could make finer adjustments.
I don’t think these should be marketed as auto leveling if this kind of manual compensation is still needed. What’s more, they don’t make it particularly easy to level like they did on the old Enders.
it seem more of a issue of quality control. Some people have no issues at all with the machines. Seems some beds were just too far out of level from the factory for the software to compensate for. I haven't had a issue once I adjusted mine
@ it seems like enough people have had issues that the printer’s ability to maintain level wasn’t tested with a large enough sample. I haven’t heard many Bambu customers with a similar issue.
Yup, my P1S is my go to machine for anything important, just with the bed was bigger :)
Although I just did another upgrade to my K1 max that has me more confident I can trust it again. Just working on that video now
@ right on. I do like my K1C (mostly because I only paid $200 for it) but if I were buying new I’d go Bambu for sure
Do you have a STL of that bed level calibration print? Also, you have rooted your K1 Max so that you could see the Klipper bed profile, right?
No rooting. You can access klipper by just putting the printer IP in your browser.
I made that rest print in orca slicer just by placing some cylinders and cubes and scaling them to the size I wanted and only 1 layer thick.
ciao complimenti per I video vorrei chiederti un info,
sulla mia K1max vorrei fara la Mesh del piatto per vedere come sta messo.
puoi indicarmi come collego la stampante al Pc e come eseguo la Mesh?
grazie
In Creality print you can go to the job menu and see your printers ip address once connected.
Then you can just type that ip address into your web browser and it will open the clipper interface I show in my video
Hello how to make a bed mesh and on which application, créality print is it possible?
Yeah I have no idea where to find that hope you get the answer
@min0rmeme108 the mesh can be seen in the fluid interface. I think you can get to it from the Creality slicer or at lease you can get the up address of your machine and they type that into a web browser and get to it that way.
But your machine needs to be hooked up to your home network to access it
@@DaveRigDesign I had to root the k1 max to be able to see it
@DaveRigDesign thanks for the reply I'm actively trying to figure this thing out just started 3d printing like 4 days ago started well enough and hit the fan yesterday
@min0rmeme108 that should be needed. You should be able to see it without rooting
so tyhe autolevel feature is not really autolevel.
It is but I think there is a limit to how much it can adjust. So if your bed is out too far it can’t correctly compensate.
I need help with this
Why did you glue the spacers? Wouldnt it hold secure without the glue?
It’s difficult to place the washed and spacers due to the limited access. So glueing the washers to t by e spaces makes it easier
@DaveRigDesign ah makes sense.
I have a total offset difference of 0.60, so I'm thinking of doing this sooner rather than later.
New SUB here with a thumbs up however I can't sanded a part that comes with the machine, it is not in me blood to hurt my machine, but one of my washers I could careless about oldtimer Baby-boomer here however you got it done 👍👍 up!
Thanks. I just shimming the other corners would work also but I just went with sanding as I don’t ever plan to thought it again :)
thanks for that, what software are you using to get that height chart?
It’s the ui for klipper
what is the software used to due to bed leveling. Thanks
It’s just klipper that’s running on the printer. You can access it by putting in your printers ip in a web browser
grazie mille della risposta 😊😊😊
What's the size of the washers you used? Also are you using stock firmware or rooted?
Stock firmware. Washers were 3mm I think cuz that’s what I had. I needed to drill them out a bit to fit the screws. 4mm may be a proper fit
why not try to just belt skipping on the rods?
You have less control cuz you have to move 1 tooth at a time and from what I’ve seen it’s not easy to do. Adjusting the mounts give the best control
@@DaveRigDesign idk i did it on my k1c and now i just have 0.2 mm total difference and getting perfect first layer every time. Also it just took 2 minutes. I didnt believe it until i see the results.
I guess it depends how the bed it out of alignment. People add adjustment wheels so you can dial it in perfect but I didn’t bother cuz I figure it only needs to be adjusted once
I just did with the belt skipping to align the front but the problem is that the back left is -0.6 and the back right is 0.5 but both the fronts are like 0.1
I will need to use washers on the back left to raise it up.
That’s the issue with belt skipping, you don’t have fine control. If you get lucky and the amount out is one belt tooth then It’s great :)
What kind of glue?
CA glue
grazie mille sono riuscito
I'm changing my 3D printer to Bambu with this one 😭
and this is the simplest?? lol
Yup :)
That's why i don't buy any creality but bambu products
Minor issues really. Machine is otherwise great. When the beds get big it’s hard to keep them flat. Maybe some built in adjustment is needed.
Well ... That's a fine sentiment but as someone who's had a Bambu Labs X1C Carbon with AMS since they released them I'll point out that BL had a MAJOR problem with their early releases. Like people talking about Class Action Lawsuits big. On their official forum, a "problem with bed leveling" thread is the THIRD largest discussion EVER with over 65,500 views currently (5/24). That's NOT counting Reddit or Discord posts who have similar numbers!
As an owner of Creality and BL products (multiples) I agree that BL makes a killer product but you're overstating things a bit here.😉
Especially with bed level, as BL has blood on their hands form that subject. Just sayin ...!
Cheers!
@DaveRigDesign I purchased one and sold it on 2 weeks later. No quality control whatsoever. I fixed the bed level which was way off but still, bad print quality, bad filament feed design, and many failed prints. I would advise against purchasing this printer.
@leickenberg I’ve had some issues but not terrible. Not as plug&play as the ended 3 V3.
I’m wondering if the extrusions issues are due to the tight turns in the filament path. I may change it and see if that fixes anything.
@DaveRigDesign the filament path is one of the problems. The other one is the extruder itself, I had the latest version with unicorn nozzle and still the filament would get stuck in the extruder which means disassembly to remove the shredded filament. Had several instances where the printer would just go on and move in thin air as it doesn't detect no flow scenarios.
Glad it works for you but I am looking for a more reliable product with less quality issues.