It’s interesting to see all the comments about glue. In a previous video a commenter said it only goes on the strip. Another said it goes on the whole bed. I see a lot of similar comments on this video. Bottom line is a quality PEI bed and especially a textured PEI bed shouldn’t need glue at all. Creality shouldn’t even put that writing on the bed. I thought it was funny but somewhat obvious but I clearly didn’t deliver the message properly. If it needs glue it’s not a quality bed. The A plate is poor quality.
Wait.. I thought the glue stick was to be applied on the bed.. not for adhesion but for the release.. Isnt Bambu like that? its supposed to stick too well to the bed and the glue stick assists with that..
I had the x1c first and it was entire bed, since the k1 is essentially a clone I assumed it was also entire bed. So that's how I've always done it and it works almost as well as the x1c.
Ohhh CHEP, CHEP are you punking us! The strip at the back is just to wipe/clean the nozzle for even bed leveling. You apply glue stick to the print area (the plate where your print is going to print). We love you man!
The glue is supposed to go in the print area. Chep, for all the good you do for the printing world, we'll let this one slide. Keep doing what you're doing.
I'm not a smart man, but I know that where the build plate says to apply glue, it's not just talking about that small little strip at the back where nothing gets printed. I was using the glue that came with the machine at first until i had a failed print. I have since been using hairspray on my A plate on the K1 Max and have not had a single issue.
Sorry CHEP but the “Please apply glue before printing” doesn’t apply to just the small strip with the text. The text is meant to remind you to put glue on the area where your print is meant to stick to your build plate. Keep up the good work, love your videos!
I agree. I found this really strange for somebody so knowledgable and experienced with 3D printers. I get the desire to have it just work and not use glue, but glue would have been the very first thing I tried. And yes, I would have applied it to the whole plate, not just the wipe bar. How strange.
That textured plate (B Plate) is one of the best upgrades for the K1 Series. I don’t see what the big upside going to the K1C. Great video, and would like to see some more electronic stuff. I’m not privy to anything electronic, but I’m all about learning new things.
I have a K1 max, never had any adhesion issue. never used any glue. The only thing is that the bed temperature is set too low in the default profiles, it needs to be higher.
I’ve had a K1 Max for a couple of weeks now and can confirm the default bed temps are too low. 60c for PLA works a treat on either build plate. From my limited FDM understanding at this point, glue seems largely unnecessary, at least for PLA. It sounds like glue could be beneficial for other materials that are more stubborn about releasing from the build plate after printing.
I have the K1 Max and print on the A plate with no glue and have only had one print that failed to stick and that was because the plate was dirty. I use 91% IPA between every print with a paper towel. I don’t scour the plate, I just wipe it down. I think that is key. Another thing, with magnetic plates, you have to make sure the mating surface between the bed and the build plate are perfectly clean and flat. Any dust or bits of print on that surface will cause the bed to appear warped. I print ASA with no glue and no warping using the generic ASA profile.
You got a good one. I’ve had several bad ones and so have many viewers. Many clean it regularly just as you described. Have had no issues with the textured PEI plates.
I’ve not used glue in 800 hours of printing. Clean the build plate with alcohol or alcohol based glass cleaner before you print. Perfect prints and the plate doesn’t look like trash afterwards.
I only use glue for large flat prints. I have some prints that fill the bed, and are flat on the bottom. I was getting lifting. I tried glue (which works), but am so much happier with hairspray. A few light coats and I have never had lifting. Much easier than applying glue.
Agreed. I really like the B plate on my K1 Max. I never had adhesion issues with the A plate but prefer a textured surface so I picked up a B plate as soon as they had them in stock.
How do so many people not realize you put glue on the whole plate? Or atleast where your print goes? Why would you put just a little strip of glue at the top?? That makes no sense. Appearantly I found the crowd that requires "Caution: This cup is hot" instead of "Caution: Hot" No wonder yalls prints aren't sticking. This is actually hilarious that this is problem.
Hi, I don't like to disagree with you, but I have both the K1 max and the K1, I've been using the the A plate on both printers without any hassle since before Christmas. I apply a glue stick to the bed every 9 or 10 prints and I very rarely get a failed print. Having said that I do use PEI on my other printers Flsun SR & Q5, also on my Sovol SV07 and I do really like this type of plates. Anyway having seen your video and finding out about these plates; even though I'm not having any issues with the A plate, I did go to Creality UK shop and purchased the textured B plates for both the K1 and K1 max!! Just because I do like this type of build plate and not for any other reason. But I do listen to your advise when it comes to 3 D printing because you have wealth of experience in this field. Keep up the excellent work.
I'm not sure if they changed the A plate but the one I have works great. I start PLA at 65c then 60c and ABS 105c then 100c and they stick extremely well. I do have a textured sheet on order just in case the A sheet starts failing. Great video, Thanks!
I can't see how you would interpret it as apply glue only to the narrow strip. I literally don't understand. If you use the smooth A plate and the low plate temps mentioned on the chart inside the printer, you will get failures because they want glue wherever your model is going. Step it up to 60c for PLA. I didn't want to find out got PETG acted (it might bond too tightly) so I used glue for that too, worked perfect. For ASA I use 105c plate and glue as well, for the textured gold PEI I I took a bit of glue stick and mixed it with a couple drops of water to create a "milk" I could paint on with brush that leaves a uniform but very thin layer of glue when it dries.
See I told you the PEI sheet would solve the problem. Glad you got it sorted. Never had a problem with the Max since using a PEI sheet and it should come with it as standard.
I've been using glue stick on one of my printers with a glass bed. PLA sticks fine but PETG just comes off as if i were trying on Teflon. Instead of just rubbing the stick all over the bed I've scooped it the whole stick and soaked it in water to dilute it quite a bit. Put it in a small spray bottle and i just lightly mist the bed now and it works beautifully. Leaves a very nice texture on the bottom as well.
Supposed to glue the entire bed. I run my k1 at lower than stock bed temp too. I use bambu stock temps 36c I think. Only have adhesion issues when I don't glue (entire bed). I do a glue stick layer up and down and a layer left and right.
Glue not only helps with adhesion, but most importantly it is a protective layer between the bed and the prints. It should protect the bed and lengthen it's life.
Thanks!I got the k1c and nothing was sticking!I even got bed adhesion problems with fresh glue applied.I will consider purchasing the b plate for my k1c
Thank you. My new K1C comes tomorrow. So I ordered the B plate. I have these on both my Bambu's and N4 Plus. They work beautifully. I never have issues with textured build plates.
I was gonna comment on the last weeks video but I thought you was already aware of the textured plates from Creality, I have a couple that I got on Aliexpress and I'm using on my K1 from day one. The only thing I had to do was raise the bed temp to 55 and combined with the textured plate I'm not having issues. Regarding the K1C I'm not impressed so far with the new proprietary hotend design. So far I watched two videos featuring the machine and both had the hotend clogged.
I also don't like the rubber wiper on the new K1C. It's a pointless copy of Bambu for one thing, but also it means you can't use 3rd party plates unless they specifically include that. For the regular K1 you are overflowing with plate choices (h1h plates!). Honestly the whole K1C seems like a downgrade, most of the new "upgrades" are already on the regular K1 anyway.
I've watched many of your videos, this is first time you sounded like a noob! Everyone knows you put glue where you intend to print. It's like wanting to put your model plane together by putting glue on your forehead. Silly chep!
I got the B plate two weeks before I got my K1-Max. I continue to watch videos of seasoned 3d printing TH-camrs testing the K1-Max without upgrading the plate and I ask myself "Am I the only one who gets the superior qualities of textured PEI?" This is a big minus for the K1C and I'm a bit surprised they didn't figure it out, or decided that it wasn't worth the upgrade. My A plate is sitting in the box that my B plate came in and never saw a drop of filament... and it never will. I don't think the new hot end on the K1C is going over very well. I know NBR ran into a clog in his livestream. I'm hoping the Micro Swiss will be better when I bother to install it. The OG hot end is working great on the Max, but I only have the stainless .04 nozzle for it, so I should probably swap it out. I picked up the .06, .08, and I think .06 hardened steel nozzle for the MS.
Once again I find a video perfectly showing whats been going on with my 3D printing experience! I got the K1 MAX at Microcenter with the A plate. The first couple prints were perfect with no hotglue but then nothing would stick. I put a thin layer of hot glue over the whole build plate. I would scrape it after but it wouldn't really get it all off. But it worked great! Then my friend linked me those carbon fiber and holographic beds and I was pretty intrigued. I found apparently a Creality branded build plate type B but it's double sided. the PEI is amazing for PLA so far. Sticks every time and I take the build plate off and bend it and it slides right off. Sometimes I have to gently touch it. The carbon fiber side is also great. BUT I've had no luck with ABS. And I didn't really want to start the whole debacle with putting glue on this nice beautiful new plate. So I went back to the A plate for ABS for now.
been using hairspray for YEARS. works every time on virtually every flavor of 3D printer and plates. spray everywhere you expect to print. glue stick is good for smaller parts, be generous and really slap it on there.
I ❤ all the people who have issues. I got the texture plate at go and use Orca splicer. I’ve never had an issue. Your right A plate is junk my K1 max is great but it’s because Uncle Jesse, and you teaching us that things come with garbage and the community helps each other find the best solution.
I bought that Creality PEI textured plate for my CR-10 and haven’t had a bed adhesion issue once since using it! Never used glue or even cleaned the plate with a liquid. I simply use a microfiber cloth to wipe the plate after a print and that’s it
Great video! After receiving my K1, the plate that comes with it proved to be a design mistake. I purchased a normal PEI sheet from Creality which functions perfectly. The 23*23 sheets from other printers I have, I modified by Dremeling two corners so it would fit on my K1 as well.
From previous experience with smooth plates I purchased the textured plate for my K1 and haven't done a single print with the smooth one. Never used any glue with it and have always had perfect prints, if something ever sticks to well to the plate then just let it cool down and anything should pop right off once the plate & part cools down.
Have the A plate and K1C. Multiple prints, went over a couple of rolls already, never had adhesion problems. Just wiping it off every other print with 99% IPA and everything sticks perfectly. Maybe bed temps are too low for your prints? Never had even a corner lift on a very small part.
Are we supposed to put glue stick only on that part of the plate ? I'm coming for an E3V2 and, after reading that "apply glue" message, I applied glue on all the plate and never had anything lifting out of the bed ... I applied glue once per spool, and just refresh the "glue layer" once in a while with a wet paper towel. Worked great for me these past 200hrs or so.
I've heard of this problem everywhere, sometimes it's the warped bed on the K1 Max, as in the middle it just sinks a little because of how big it is. However, you have a older printer (like the Ender 3 S1 Pro) that you don't use anymore, i would prefer to use its steel PEI sheet bed for your K1/K1C, with this fix i've heard lots of good stuff about it with the PEI sheet as you don't need to apply any glue onto the build area (which i definitely don't like doing). All you need to do is cut out some stuff on the new bed to fit and it'll work just fine.
My PrusaXL came with both, and while I haven't printed much on the satin on, I'm in love with the textured. I bought varying textured ones for the Ender 3s/Vox Aquillo that I own, and its been better than the normal beds as well. I think the textured sure be the default on all of them given how well they work as well.
All I use the A plate for is PETG, simply because it would stick too well to a textured plate. I agree the textured build plate is hands down the best quality of life improvement you can make on a K1 series printer
I've had a K1 for a few months now I had the same problem as you but heres what I did. What i find is that the stock profiles all have the bed temp at 45c, in my experience that is too low. I increased that to 55c and my adhesion problem are totally gone. In fact, I have never needed to use the glue since making this adjustment.
Creality might have listened. I just bought a K1 Max AI and they shipped a B plate with it along side. Also some angel picked out white and black hyper pla to ship too. I've seen from other CCs that heat soak to achieve final bed geometry before measuring is critical and Klipper's KAMP (root printer and enable with script) can help a lot.
OK, here is what I know, I have the K1 Max, I did get the dreaded Blob too!! Changed my head over because of it. Use the 'Pritt Stick' Glue all over the area you are printing on with PLA, then it works no issue on the "A Plate" The bed after initial warming runs cool for PLA For PETG it works without the glue, as it keeps the bed heated, again just using the "A Plate" So far so good no more mishaps!
I have had no problems with the A plate, but my son has the B Plate and likes the texture. They also make a plate that has smooth on one side and textured on the other. I also noticed that you have to be a lot more careful with the filament you choose on the K1's. My son tried to print something with Creality's "Ender" series PLA and had lots of problems. But we almost never have problems when we use PLA+ or Creality's HyperPLA.
Seriously, thanks for always bringing these type of issues forward. I want to get k1 Max! You mentioned that Micro center has it for $699.99 , I was looking for it on other websites for a lower price. Well, my friend you just save me and thanks again. I'm actually going to place my order now and pick it up today.
My K1 Max will not print the B Plate if I check the, calibrate before print, but will for the A Plate, I think it has to do with the Lidar, Bambu has the same problem on their Textured Plates, as for the Glue, IT"S THE PRINT AREA. so, if I want it to do the Flow calibration before print, I haft to use the A plate. as for the B plate, its the old way, do the flow test in the slicer, and the like, and it will print well...
I had the blob of death after a week of having the k1max, I had nothing but issues with the machine since, I got it printing nicely now but had to put bed levling screws on as the lieght map was a 1.5mm variance. I use a texted peo/pei plate and love them. I only use the a plate when Im calabrating.
Ive had the blob on my K1, had to cut out the plastic and then replace the heater block/nozzle due to cutting one of hte wires when remove. I will try this.
i am waiting my k1c to be delivered and watching some videos and......boy so many people talking without havong a clue about 3d printing. I can't tell if there is or not an issue on this printer, BUT i read that in stock profiles bed temperature is 45°: well that is not enough not even in my low speed ender3 v2, imagine on a high spedd printer. Bed temperature MUST be not less than 55° and up to 60° in cold weather, otherwise it will not stick. Check it before spending money and blaming the bed.
I've not had issues with the A plates on my K1's... (except for petg sticking too well) I only wipe the plate clean with a 1" alcohol prep pad (the kind used for diabetic injections) and no adhesion problems on 2 different plates with PLA... I did torture test an A plate with PETG, and I ruined one after printing about 7kg of parts (It tore a section of the PEI sticker off of the steel sheet). The apply glue message is for the build area of the sheet... the directions aren't that clear I guess. Since I killed the A plate with petg, I found Creality replacements on amazon for $15 and use one just for PETG with gluestick. I am going to try a different build sticker on the damaged plate (GeckoTek hot), but need to clean the adhesive off first... waiting for it to be warm enough to do outside...
Just as a tip, on the original K1, it takes a standard notched build plate, it doesn't need the rubber thingy the K1C does. So you can use the same plates as the V3 series and the CR10SE (IIRC) so the plates are cheap and plentiful. Never use the plate that comes with a creality lol, great printers, but I don't know why they keep pushing out those terrible smooth plates. No one likes glue for just printing PLA.
to each their own, but i'm not a fan of textured pei, I vastly prefer the finish of the smooth stuff on my prints. I have a k1 max and I've had really good luck with the A plate it comes with, no glue, just the occasional washing with dawn dish soap if i end up getting some finger oils on it (which happens every so often when I remove the bed from the printer to remove large or stubborn prints from the bed.
I bought four of these k1s. Things were fine for the first half dozen prints, then two of the machines went nuts and overflowed the hot head with big bulb of filament, all through the wiring.
I read/heard somewhere (sorry, can't remember where) that the A build plate for K1 series was designed to work with the LiDAR included in the K1 Max. Creality is supposedly going to offer the LiDAR as an upgrade to the K1/k1C, and that may be why they continue to include the A plate. I have printed on the A plate with and without glue, and decided to continue using glue as it makes removing models easier. Having said that, I'm ordering the PEI plate with PEI as I have had very good luck printing on PEI with my other Creatlity printers. If Creality ever releases the LiDAR for the K1, and if it continues to require the A plate, I can switch back :)
I have a K1Max and have not used glue. I had some prints with poor adhesion (rough bottom surface), but it seemed to fix when I recalibrated on prints that cover more of the build plate.
As I stated on Threads.....feel free to use glue if it works for you on certain surfaces. I only use it when needed. Like lately during a cold snap outside there was just enough of a cold draft coming off our brand new triple pane windows that's by my 3D printers, the prints were lifting off both my glass plate printer and the textured PEI sheet printer. Stuck some stick glue down and they were good to go. But sadly I had tried everything else first before noticing the cold draft, -25 degree weather is no match for even good triple-pane windows with argon between the glass. Brrrrrrr!! Now that we are back in the 30s and 40s the problem has gone away.
I recently purchased a K1 max and after about 10 perfect prints I got a blob. Going to attempt to remove as much as I possibly can with a heat gun, but I'm sure creality will be sending me parts under warranty. After watching, I will be getting a new build plate.
I bought a B plate for both my ender 3 v3 SE and my K1. When the A plate worked it was great but when I started having adhesion problems nothing would work. B plate every time for me. PLA, PETG and ABS all adhere fine on both machines
Never used glue or tape , Had an original CR10 for years very soon after got a nice thick PEI sheet and loved it. Later I found a textured PEI plate..... Ordered the K1 on black Friday with the textured plate and still haven't ever used glue or tape 🙂
Couldnt agree more. the plate for the k1 with no glue was great in the beginng but as you print on it the more and more was garbage. i ended up buying a aftermarket plate for both my k1 and ender v3
Try to use heai Spray for bed adhesion , hear spray have Pva in their formula , thats helps to stick , and always do a good corner level , a good z offser setup , and thats it
@@FilamentFriday yes , i known , i have the creality metal plate , with pei , its stick very well to petg, but in long prints like 24 or more hours (and fast) (i use klipper at 150 mm/seg at 10.000 mm/seg^2) its not gone heat yuo to put some hear spray ,i saw some warrping in cornes in some pla prints , in the nithg temp go down ..so better be sure, Good luck chep , and by the way , yuo have a great coleccion of printers there :)
First off. For one, I don’t know why people don’t use the Creality software for one. For two, in experimental mode you can set your g-code offset. Third point, if you clean nozzle and let it touch the build plate with a sheet of paper between you’ll realize that it touches too hard. Apply your offset to 0.00 mm. Fourth point. Flip your build plate to the shiny side and use Elmer’s purple glue where your print is going to go. I have had ZERO issues with the stock plate. Try it and let me know CHEP
I’ve already tried it all. I’ll stick to the textured PEI plate. Why this $800 machine can detect a blob early is beyond me. The Bambulab A1 Mini caught it as I showed in another video.
Just ordered your linked B plate just because I would like to get that texture. I have the K1 with the A plate and have not had issues with it sticking. A few times a had a hard time getting the print off so maybe the one you had has some kinda defect? Anyway I print mostly Esun PLA+, sainsmart TPU, but 90% of my prints are with inland ASA.
Awesome Video ! Thanks for all that informations ! I think i also will change the buildplate for future prints. I have a question to you as K1 Max user. My prints are overall good to almost perfect. But i noticed a bigger problem on my prints. My supports have always kind of blobs on it and the nozzle will hit that at some point and rip that support away.. The print next to them is perfectly smooth and fine so i dont understand the problem. I use the creality print software and my supports are mostly "Tree Slim / Density is 10% and 99% of the settings are basic and unchanged" What causes this problem ? Do you have any idea ? The blobs are always on one side so it could be the seam when new layers are applied. I playd arround with temps but no changes at all. And i need to notice that im a beginner and i have not tryd to play arroung with the support z hight settings because i dont wanna shatter anything. The Tree branches also looks like melted snow. When i compare the printed part with the branches next to them i can see a big difference in quality. Print looks smooth and branches looks ugly.. Any idea ? :/
800 hours on a K1 Max. I’ve never used glue. I clean the build plate with an alcohol based glass cleaner or IPA before each print. If you clean with water or soap and water. You are leaving deposits from the water on the plate. Alcohol cleans greasy finger prints and evaporates clean and quickly.
Quick question , the blob seems to happen at random spots in the print. Is there a way to combat that. First layers come out well then randomly have the blob. Am I missing something in the slicing or input shaping or is it the heat break setup of the extruder and should replace it with a different one. I have also heard that the K1 should be rooted but am afraid to start playing with it as I am still a bit nervous messing with firmware. I have had great success with the K1 max, far more than my other Creality printers until I bought your leveler2 so wanted to say thank you as well. Printing finally looks viable on those printers. Thanks again for any help.
A Plate / Smooth PEI -> It has worked perfect for me, amazing. Then again i only have done ABS and Nylon on it, no PLA. It's the best one i've used. I use thin coat of PVA on the whole plate btw, more as an release agent. Initially with glue stick, but that keeps building up too high, so just wood glue diluted in water wiped on with paper towel. Sadly, i lost a piece of the surface and they are out of stock everywhere. Glue obviously let go , and i have thumb sized missing piece of the surface now :(
Chuck said he cleaned with water and soapy water. Has anybody with an A plate tried cleaning it with acetone? I don't have this printer or an A plate, but I have a smooth Creality PEI base plate for my Ender 3. A bit of acetone on a paper towel always does the trick, when even IPA isn't strong enough.
I got the B plate for this reason. I haven't had it long but it still isn't a fix all. I still had the print get knocked off the B plate. I was lucky enough to hear it get knocked off and stop it.
Can I ask if the machine forced you to re-level after the firmware update or did you just know to do it? I've just ruined the hotend on my V3 KE because a firmware update cleared the bed mesh and Z-offset and ended up with a blob of death
@FilamentFriday ahh right, thanks. That's what I feel should have happened with my machine. If I think back to when it was brand new, it wouldn't let me proceed any further without running bed mesh and auto Z
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
It’s interesting to see all the comments about glue. In a previous video a commenter said it only goes on the strip. Another said it goes on the whole bed. I see a lot of similar comments on this video.
Bottom line is a quality PEI bed and especially a textured PEI bed shouldn’t need glue at all. Creality shouldn’t even put that writing on the bed.
I thought it was funny but somewhat obvious but I clearly didn’t deliver the message properly.
If it needs glue it’s not a quality bed. The A plate is poor quality.
Wait.. I thought the glue stick was to be applied on the bed.. not for adhesion but for the release.. Isnt Bambu like that? its supposed to stick too well to the bed and the glue stick assists with that..
I had the x1c first and it was entire bed, since the k1 is essentially a clone I assumed it was also entire bed. So that's how I've always done it and it works almost as well as the x1c.
Shouldn't be needed on a pei bed though that's true. But it comes without one.
glue is needed to help release because it sticks so well.
All creality plates are low quality
Ohhh CHEP, CHEP are you punking us!
The strip at the back is just to wipe/clean the nozzle for even bed leveling. You apply glue stick to the print area (the plate where your print is going to print).
We love you man!
The glue is supposed to go in the print area. Chep, for all the good you do for the printing world, we'll let this one slide. Keep doing what you're doing.
I use the "A-Plate", but i use glue on the whole plate, all my prints have come out really great!
I'm not a smart man, but I know that where the build plate says to apply glue, it's not just talking about that small little strip at the back where nothing gets printed.
I was using the glue that came with the machine at first until i had a failed print. I have since been using hairspray on my A plate on the K1 Max and have not had a single issue.
You're supposed to put glue stick on the whole bed. You've been around long enough to know this.
I use glue stick everywhere and works perfect every time PLA/ABS/ASA all sticks to the plate just fine after all it does say to use glue
Dude "please apply glue" is for the whole build plate. Not the little strip.
Sorry CHEP but the “Please apply glue before printing” doesn’t apply to just the small strip with the text. The text is meant to remind you to put glue on the area where your print is meant to stick to your build plate. Keep up the good work, love your videos!
I thought he was joking about that. But yeah you need glue on those awful smooth plates.
I agree. I found this really strange for somebody so knowledgable and experienced with 3D printers. I get the desire to have it just work and not use glue, but glue would have been the very first thing I tried. And yes, I would have applied it to the whole plate, not just the wipe bar.
How strange.
@@Dalroth Well, Babe Ruth didn't bat 1000, we ain't gonna either. Lol
That textured plate (B Plate) is one of the best upgrades for the K1 Series.
I don’t see what the big upside going to the K1C.
Great video, and would like to see some more electronic stuff. I’m not privy to anything electronic, but I’m all about learning new things.
I have a K1 max, never had any adhesion issue. never used any glue. The only thing is that the bed temperature is set too low in the default profiles, it needs to be higher.
I also don’t understand the requirement for glue when other plates, pei, glass work without it.
I’ve had a K1 Max for a couple of weeks now and can confirm the default bed temps are too low. 60c for PLA works a treat on either build plate. From my limited FDM understanding at this point, glue seems largely unnecessary, at least for PLA. It sounds like glue could be beneficial for other materials that are more stubborn about releasing from the build plate after printing.
I have the K1 Max and print on the A plate with no glue and have only had one print that failed to stick and that was because the plate was dirty. I use 91% IPA between every print with a paper towel. I don’t scour the plate, I just wipe it down. I think that is key. Another thing, with magnetic plates, you have to make sure the mating surface between the bed and the build plate are perfectly clean and flat. Any dust or bits of print on that surface will cause the bed to appear warped. I print ASA with no glue and no warping using the generic ASA profile.
You got a good one. I’ve had several bad ones and so have many viewers. Many clean it regularly just as you described. Have had no issues with the textured PEI plates.
The instructions clearly state to apply glue to the entire build plate
Yeah
I thought he was trolling
@@StrvoJdkanse why would he?
I’ve not used glue in 800 hours of printing. Clean the build plate with alcohol or alcohol based glass cleaner before you print. Perfect prints and the plate doesn’t look like trash afterwards.
I only use glue for large flat prints. I have some prints that fill the bed, and are flat on the bottom. I was getting lifting. I tried glue (which works), but am so much happier with hairspray. A few light coats and I have never had lifting. Much easier than applying glue.
I'm sorry Chuck... how could you possibly miss the point of the messages in the instructions and on the plates... especially the K1C's.
Agreed. I really like the B plate on my K1 Max. I never had adhesion issues with the A plate but prefer a textured surface so I picked up a B plate as soon as they had them in stock.
How do so many people not realize you put glue on the whole plate? Or atleast where your print goes? Why would you put just a little strip of glue at the top?? That makes no sense. Appearantly I found the crowd that requires "Caution: This cup is hot" instead of "Caution: Hot" No wonder yalls prints aren't sticking. This is actually hilarious that this is problem.
Hi, I don't like to disagree with you, but I have both the K1 max and the K1, I've been using the the A plate on both printers without any hassle since before Christmas. I apply a glue stick to the bed every 9 or 10 prints and I very rarely get a failed print. Having said that I do use PEI on my other printers Flsun SR & Q5, also on my Sovol SV07 and I do really like this type of plates. Anyway having seen your video and finding out about these plates; even though I'm not having any issues with the A plate, I did go to Creality UK shop and purchased the textured B plates for both the K1 and K1 max!! Just because I do like this type of build plate and not for any other reason. But I do listen to your advise when it comes to 3 D printing because you have wealth of experience in this field. Keep up the excellent work.
I'm not sure if they changed the A plate but the one I have works great. I start PLA at 65c then 60c and ABS 105c then 100c and they stick extremely well. I do have a textured sheet on order just in case the A sheet starts failing. Great video, Thanks!
I can't see how you would interpret it as apply glue only to the narrow strip. I literally don't understand. If you use the smooth A plate and the low plate temps mentioned on the chart inside the printer, you will get failures because they want glue wherever your model is going. Step it up to 60c for PLA. I didn't want to find out got PETG acted (it might bond too tightly) so I used glue for that too, worked perfect. For ASA I use 105c plate and glue as well, for the textured gold PEI I I took a bit of glue stick and mixed it with a couple drops of water to create a "milk" I could paint on with brush that leaves a uniform but very thin layer of glue when it dries.
I know it seems obvious but apparently not
You are supposed to use the glue stick wherever the print goes, not just that thin strip at the back.
See I told you the PEI sheet would solve the problem. Glad you got it sorted. Never had a problem with the Max since using a PEI sheet and it should come with it as standard.
The factory plate is PEI, just a smooth one.
I know, I meant to say textured. I messaged chep last week
I've been using glue stick on one of my printers with a glass bed. PLA sticks fine but PETG just comes off as if i were trying on Teflon. Instead of just rubbing the stick all over the bed I've scooped it the whole stick and soaked it in water to dilute it quite a bit. Put it in a small spray bottle and i just lightly mist the bed now and it works beautifully. Leaves a very nice texture on the bottom as well.
Supposed to glue the entire bed. I run my k1 at lower than stock bed temp too. I use bambu stock temps 36c I think. Only have adhesion issues when I don't glue (entire bed). I do a glue stick layer up and down and a layer left and right.
And to clean I just run it under hot water then dry it
Glue not only helps with adhesion, but most importantly it is a protective layer between the bed and the prints. It should protect the bed and lengthen it's life.
This video addresses the exact issues I had with my k1c yesterday.
Thanks!I got the k1c and nothing was sticking!I even got bed adhesion problems with fresh glue applied.I will consider purchasing the b plate for my k1c
Thank you. My new K1C comes tomorrow. So I ordered the B plate. I have these on both my Bambu's and N4 Plus. They work beautifully. I never have issues with textured build plates.
I was gonna comment on the last weeks video but I thought you was already aware of the textured plates from Creality, I have a couple that I got on Aliexpress and I'm using on my K1 from day one.
The only thing I had to do was raise the bed temp to 55 and combined with the textured plate I'm not having issues.
Regarding the K1C I'm not impressed so far with the new proprietary hotend design. So far I watched two videos featuring the machine and both had the hotend clogged.
I also don't like the rubber wiper on the new K1C. It's a pointless copy of Bambu for one thing, but also it means you can't use 3rd party plates unless they specifically include that. For the regular K1 you are overflowing with plate choices (h1h plates!). Honestly the whole K1C seems like a downgrade, most of the new "upgrades" are already on the regular K1 anyway.
I've watched many of your videos, this is first time you sounded like a noob! Everyone knows you put glue where you intend to print. It's like wanting to put your model plane together by putting glue on your forehead. Silly chep!
I got the B plate two weeks before I got my K1-Max. I continue to watch videos of seasoned 3d printing TH-camrs testing the K1-Max without upgrading the plate and I ask myself "Am I the only one who gets the superior qualities of textured PEI?" This is a big minus for the K1C and I'm a bit surprised they didn't figure it out, or decided that it wasn't worth the upgrade. My A plate is sitting in the box that my B plate came in and never saw a drop of filament... and it never will. I don't think the new hot end on the K1C is going over very well. I know NBR ran into a clog in his livestream. I'm hoping the Micro Swiss will be better when I bother to install it. The OG hot end is working great on the Max, but I only have the stainless .04 nozzle for it, so I should probably swap it out. I picked up the .06, .08, and I think .06 hardened steel nozzle for the MS.
I'm happy I saw that video before ordering my K1 max. Sadly, I had an ABS blob this morning. My printer is only one week old and completely dead.
Getting a textured plate for my K1 solved 95% of my problems, especially with PETG.
Once again I find a video perfectly showing whats been going on with my 3D printing experience! I got the K1 MAX at Microcenter with the A plate. The first couple prints were perfect with no hotglue but then nothing would stick. I put a thin layer of hot glue over the whole build plate. I would scrape it after but it wouldn't really get it all off. But it worked great! Then my friend linked me those carbon fiber and holographic beds and I was pretty intrigued. I found apparently a Creality branded build plate type B but it's double sided. the PEI is amazing for PLA so far. Sticks every time and I take the build plate off and bend it and it slides right off. Sometimes I have to gently touch it. The carbon fiber side is also great. BUT I've had no luck with ABS. And I didn't really want to start the whole debacle with putting glue on this nice beautiful new plate. So I went back to the A plate for ABS for now.
been using hairspray for YEARS. works every time on virtually every flavor of 3D printer and plates. spray everywhere you expect to print. glue stick is good for smaller parts, be generous and really slap it on there.
Me too. I use Aqua Net and it works great and its cheap. I finally figured out I should spray it in another room though to avoid breathing it.
I ❤ all the people who have issues. I got the texture plate at go and use Orca splicer. I’ve never had an issue. Your right A plate is junk my K1 max is great but it’s because Uncle Jesse, and you teaching us that things come with garbage and the community helps each other find the best solution.
I bought that Creality PEI textured plate for my CR-10 and haven’t had a bed adhesion issue once since using it! Never used glue or even cleaned the plate with a liquid. I simply use a microfiber cloth to wipe the plate after a print and that’s it
Hope we get an chep orca profile for the k1 Max 😀
I upgraded to the textured sheet with my K1 Max. I would agree with you, it makes it much better.
That's the first thing I did was replace the build plates on both my K1 masx's also installed the microswiss hot ends.
Great video!
After receiving my K1, the plate that comes with it proved to be a design mistake.
I purchased a normal PEI sheet from Creality which functions perfectly.
The 23*23 sheets from other printers I have, I modified by Dremeling two corners so it would fit on my K1 as well.
A Plate only works if you use PVP Glue stick
From previous experience with smooth plates I purchased the textured plate for my K1 and haven't done a single print with the smooth one.
Never used any glue with it and have always had perfect prints, if something ever sticks to well to the plate then just let it cool down and anything should pop right off once the plate & part cools down.
Have the A plate and K1C. Multiple prints, went over a couple of rolls already, never had adhesion problems.
Just wiping it off every other print with 99% IPA and everything sticks perfectly. Maybe bed temps are too low for your prints? Never had even a corner lift on a very small part.
Are we supposed to put glue stick only on that part of the plate ? I'm coming for an E3V2 and, after reading that "apply glue" message, I applied glue on all the plate and never had anything lifting out of the bed ... I applied glue once per spool, and just refresh the "glue layer" once in a while with a wet paper towel. Worked great for me these past 200hrs or so.
You did it correctly. Glue the entire bed.
I've heard of this problem everywhere, sometimes it's the warped bed on the K1 Max, as in the middle it just sinks a little because of how big it is.
However, you have a older printer (like the Ender 3 S1 Pro) that you don't use anymore, i would prefer to use its steel PEI sheet bed for your K1/K1C, with this fix i've heard lots of good stuff about it with the PEI sheet as you don't need to apply any glue onto the build area (which i definitely don't like doing). All you need to do is cut out some stuff on the new bed to fit and it'll work just fine.
Why don't they supply a double-sided build plate with an A and B sides?
It says on it add Glue . you think it that top area NOPE. It for the print area
My PrusaXL came with both, and while I haven't printed much on the satin on, I'm in love with the textured. I bought varying textured ones for the Ender 3s/Vox Aquillo that I own, and its been better than the normal beds as well. I think the textured sure be the default on all of them given how well they work as well.
I have the same printer and have had the same print bed for a couple of months. I agree 100% on the B plate.
I increased temp on the bed and its been fine ever since. Good squish and first layers every time.
All I use the A plate for is PETG, simply because it would stick too well to a textured plate. I agree the textured build plate is hands down the best quality of life improvement you can make on a K1 series printer
Those first layers could be a lot better - there are gaps between the lines. Try a lower z offset.
i’m confused, if fault detection is working properly, wouldn’t it stop print before blobbing could happen?
I've had a K1 for a few months now I had the same problem as you but heres what I did. What i find is that the stock profiles all have the bed temp at 45c, in my experience that is too low. I increased that to 55c and my adhesion problem are totally gone. In fact, I have never needed to use the glue since making this adjustment.
Creality might have listened. I just bought a K1 Max AI and they shipped a B plate with it along side. Also some angel picked out white and black hyper pla to ship too. I've seen from other CCs that heat soak to achieve final bed geometry before measuring is critical and Klipper's KAMP (root printer and enable with script) can help a lot.
OK, here is what I know, I have the K1 Max, I did get the dreaded Blob too!! Changed my head over because of it.
Use the 'Pritt Stick' Glue all over the area you are printing on with PLA, then it works no issue on the "A Plate" The bed after initial warming runs cool for PLA
For PETG it works without the glue, as it keeps the bed heated, again just using the "A Plate"
So far so good no more mishaps!
My K1C killed itself after just a few prints. The blob has destroyed the hot end and the sock. What is the AI meant to do if it doesn't stop this?
i have the same problem :(
@@kontrolerstreama 😤😤Sorry man
I have had no problems with the A plate, but my son has the B Plate and likes the texture. They also make a plate that has smooth on one side and textured on the other.
I also noticed that you have to be a lot more careful with the filament you choose on the K1's. My son tried to print something with Creality's "Ender" series PLA and had lots of problems. But we almost never have problems when we use PLA+ or Creality's HyperPLA.
Seriously, thanks for always bringing these type of issues forward. I want to get k1 Max! You mentioned that Micro center has it for $699.99 , I was looking for it on other websites for a lower price. Well, my friend you just save me and thanks again. I'm actually going to place my order now and pick it up today.
My K1 Max will not print the B Plate if I check the, calibrate before print, but will for the A Plate, I think it has to do with the Lidar, Bambu has the same problem on their Textured Plates, as for the Glue, IT"S THE PRINT AREA. so, if I want it to do the Flow calibration before print, I haft to use the A plate. as for the B plate, its the old way, do the flow test in the slicer, and the like, and it will print well...
I had the blob of death after a week of having the k1max, I had nothing but issues with the machine since, I got it printing nicely now but had to put bed levling screws on as the lieght map was a 1.5mm variance. I use a texted peo/pei plate and love them. I only use the a plate when Im calabrating.
I recommend to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the A build plate than it works perfect.
Dude … no glue on the rubber part? Only where you want it to stick - which is the plate itself
I put glue on the print area of both the A and B plates, and I always get perfect prints.
Ive had the blob on my K1, had to cut out the plastic and then replace the heater block/nozzle due to cutting one of hte wires when remove. I will try this.
Why would you only apply glue to the top strip?
Always applied glue stick to my whole A plate and not had a failed print due to bed adhesion problems.
i am waiting my k1c to be delivered and watching some videos and......boy so many people talking without havong a clue about 3d printing. I can't tell if there is or not an issue on this printer, BUT i read that in stock profiles bed temperature is 45°: well that is not enough not even in my low speed ender3 v2, imagine on a high spedd printer. Bed temperature MUST be not less than 55° and up to 60° in cold weather, otherwise it will not stick. Check it before spending money and blaming the bed.
you add the glue to the build plate A..... the entire plate that will have a print on it. doesnt anyone read instructions?
I've not had issues with the A plates on my K1's... (except for petg sticking too well) I only wipe the plate clean with a 1" alcohol prep pad (the kind used for diabetic injections) and no adhesion problems on 2 different plates with PLA... I did torture test an A plate with PETG, and I ruined one after printing about 7kg of parts (It tore a section of the PEI sticker off of the steel sheet).
The apply glue message is for the build area of the sheet... the directions aren't that clear I guess. Since I killed the A plate with petg, I found Creality replacements on amazon for $15 and use one just for PETG with gluestick. I am going to try a different build sticker on the damaged plate (GeckoTek hot), but need to clean the adhesive off first... waiting for it to be warm enough to do outside...
Just as a tip, on the original K1, it takes a standard notched build plate, it doesn't need the rubber thingy the K1C does. So you can use the same plates as the V3 series and the CR10SE (IIRC) so the plates are cheap and plentiful. Never use the plate that comes with a creality lol, great printers, but I don't know why they keep pushing out those terrible smooth plates. No one likes glue for just printing PLA.
to each their own, but i'm not a fan of textured pei, I vastly prefer the finish of the smooth stuff on my prints. I have a k1 max and I've had really good luck with the A plate it comes with, no glue, just the occasional washing with dawn dish soap if i end up getting some finger oils on it (which happens every so often when I remove the bed from the printer to remove large or stubborn prints from the bed.
I bought four of these k1s. Things were fine for the first half dozen prints, then two of the machines went nuts and overflowed the hot head with big bulb of filament, all through the wiring.
I read/heard somewhere (sorry, can't remember where) that the A build plate for K1 series was designed to work with the LiDAR included in the K1 Max. Creality is supposedly going to offer the LiDAR as an upgrade to the K1/k1C, and that may be why they continue to include the A plate. I have printed on the A plate with and without glue, and decided to continue using glue as it makes removing models easier. Having said that, I'm ordering the PEI plate with PEI as I have had very good luck printing on PEI with my other Creatlity printers. If Creality ever releases the LiDAR for the K1, and if it continues to require the A plate, I can switch back :)
I always apply glue to the entire build plate.
I had a major blob with nylon. I lost the entire hot end and carriage. Had to replace everything.
I have a K1Max and have not used glue. I had some prints with poor adhesion (rough bottom surface), but it seemed to fix when I recalibrated on prints that cover more of the build plate.
As I stated on Threads.....feel free to use glue if it works for you on certain surfaces. I only use it when needed. Like lately during a cold snap outside there was just enough of a cold draft coming off our brand new triple pane windows that's by my 3D printers, the prints were lifting off both my glass plate printer and the textured PEI sheet printer. Stuck some stick glue down and they were good to go. But sadly I had tried everything else first before noticing the cold draft, -25 degree weather is no match for even good triple-pane windows with argon between the glass. Brrrrrrr!! Now that we are back in the 30s and 40s the problem has gone away.
I recently purchased a K1 max and after about 10 perfect prints I got a blob. Going to attempt to remove as much as I possibly can with a heat gun, but I'm sure creality will be sending me parts under warranty. After watching, I will be getting a new build plate.
what the best 3d print chip
I bought a B plate for both my ender 3 v3 SE and my K1. When the A plate worked it was great but when I started having adhesion problems nothing would work. B plate every time for me. PLA, PETG and ABS all adhere fine on both machines
Never used glue or tape , Had an original CR10 for years very soon after got a nice thick PEI sheet and loved it. Later I found a textured PEI plate..... Ordered the K1 on black Friday with the textured plate and still haven't ever used glue or tape 🙂
Couldnt agree more. the plate for the k1 with no glue was great in the beginng but as you print on it the more and more was garbage. i ended up buying a aftermarket plate for both my k1 and ender v3
Try to use heai Spray for bed adhesion , hear spray have Pva in their formula , thats helps to stick , and always do a good corner level , a good z offser setup , and thats it
I don’t need any adhesive with the textured PEI B plate.
@@FilamentFriday yes , i known , i have the creality metal plate , with pei , its stick very well to petg, but in long prints like 24 or more hours (and fast) (i use klipper at 150 mm/seg at 10.000 mm/seg^2) its not gone heat yuo to put some hear spray ,i saw some warrping in cornes in some pla prints , in the nithg temp go down ..so better be sure, Good luck chep , and by the way , yuo have a great coleccion of printers there :)
Glue goes on the whole area that you would be printing on. That's what it means.
They should really supply a double sided build plate with A and B sides. I bought a B plate with mine as I use petg and didn't want smooth.
I have a b plate but not from Creality still love it tho works like a charm
First off. For one, I don’t know why people don’t use the Creality software for one. For two, in experimental mode you can set your g-code offset. Third point, if you clean nozzle and let it touch the build plate with a sheet of paper between you’ll realize that it touches too hard. Apply your offset to 0.00 mm. Fourth point. Flip your build plate to the shiny side and use Elmer’s purple glue where your print is going to go. I have had ZERO issues with the stock plate. Try it and let me know CHEP
I’ve already tried it all. I’ll stick to the textured PEI plate. Why this $800 machine can detect a blob early is beyond me. The Bambulab A1 Mini caught it as I showed in another video.
@@FilamentFriday In my K1C you had to enable an option to "stop print" if it detected a print error. why its not enables out of the box is beyond me.
@@Novagunner - Thanks. Where is that feature in the menu?
@@Novagunner I have that turned on on my k1c but I've never had it work!
Just ordered your linked B plate just because I would like to get that texture. I have the K1 with the A plate and have not had issues with it sticking. A few times a had a hard time getting the print off so maybe the one you had has some kinda defect? Anyway I print mostly Esun PLA+, sainsmart TPU, but 90% of my prints are with inland ASA.
Awesome Video ! Thanks for all that informations ! I think i also will change the buildplate for future prints.
I have a question to you as K1 Max user. My prints are overall good to almost perfect. But i noticed a bigger problem on my prints.
My supports have always kind of blobs on it and the nozzle will hit that at some point and rip that support away..
The print next to them is perfectly smooth and fine so i dont understand the problem.
I use the creality print software and my supports are mostly "Tree Slim / Density is 10% and 99% of the settings are basic and unchanged"
What causes this problem ? Do you have any idea ?
The blobs are always on one side so it could be the seam when new layers are applied. I playd arround with temps but no changes at all.
And i need to notice that im a beginner and i have not tryd to play arroung with the support z hight settings because i dont wanna shatter anything.
The Tree branches also looks like melted snow. When i compare the printed part with the branches next to them i can see a big difference in quality.
Print looks smooth and branches looks ugly..
Any idea ? :/
800 hours on a K1 Max. I’ve never used glue. I clean the build plate with an alcohol based glass cleaner or IPA before each print.
If you clean with water or soap and water. You are leaving deposits from the water on the plate.
Alcohol cleans greasy finger prints and evaporates clean and quickly.
This video was a lifesaver, thanks.
Thanks CHEP.
Quick question , the blob seems to happen at random spots in the print. Is there a way to combat that. First layers come out well then randomly have the blob. Am I missing something in the slicing or input shaping or is it the heat break setup of the extruder and should replace it with a different one. I have also heard that the K1 should be rooted but am afraid to start playing with it as I am still a bit nervous messing with firmware. I have had great success with the K1 max, far more than my other Creality printers until I bought your leveler2 so wanted to say thank you as well. Printing finally looks viable on those printers. Thanks again for any help.
A Plate / Smooth PEI -> It has worked perfect for me, amazing. Then again i only have done ABS and Nylon on it, no PLA.
It's the best one i've used.
I use thin coat of PVA on the whole plate btw, more as an release agent. Initially with glue stick, but that keeps building up too high, so just wood glue diluted in water wiped on with paper towel.
Sadly, i lost a piece of the surface and they are out of stock everywhere. Glue obviously let go , and i have thumb sized missing piece of the surface now :(
Chuck said he cleaned with water and soapy water. Has anybody with an A plate tried cleaning it with acetone? I don't have this printer or an A plate, but I have a smooth Creality PEI base plate for my Ender 3. A bit of acetone on a paper towel always does the trick, when even IPA isn't strong enough.
Had the blob problem with a b plate from the k1c installed in the k1, currently waiting for the replacement parts
I got the B plate for this reason. I haven't had it long but it still isn't a fix all. I still had the print get knocked off the B plate. I was lucky enough to hear it get knocked off and stop it.
No Build plate needs glue to get first layer adhesion, i thought we where past that already.
So normally are you printing PLA at 60° C bed?
Chuck, the glue thing... It's a joke... Right? 😬
Either way, the B plate seems better indeed!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Can I ask if the machine forced you to re-level after the firmware update or did you just know to do it? I've just ruined the hotend on my V3 KE because a firmware update cleared the bed mesh and Z-offset and ended up with a blob of death
The K1 automatically recommends input shaping and autolevel update after firmware upgrade so I do run it.
@FilamentFriday ahh right, thanks. That's what I feel should have happened with my machine. If I think back to when it was brand new, it wouldn't let me proceed any further without running bed mesh and auto Z