This mod is nothing short of amazing. You're a genius my friend. I need to do this mod. Glass due to the nature of how it is made, floating on tin ore guarantees near perfect flatness. Thank you so much mate.
I installed the springs and wheel nuts on my k1 max a few months ago and it has been great. I do wish I found this kit you posted earlier because the one I bought have the larger wheels and they stick out from under the bed. I had to use the stock plastic spacers under the frame to keep the wheels straight under the bed. If I could find just the wheels I might get them. I had long screws that worked in the house already. But I haven’t seen this glass sub bed mod before.
I searched for quite a while before I was able to find wheels that would fit inside the frame. They do tend to go out of stock quick to so I've had to keep an eye on them. I came up with this glass bed mod since I have to many K1C machines to justify buying machined heat plates.
@@zerodotcmdwhat about putting the glass bed right onto the heated bed and then just using the magnetic sheet to put the metal build plate on top of the glass and use minimal adhesion on the bed. Considering the machine isn’t a bed slinger style machine it’s not going to be moving.
When the heat plate is fully bonded to the glass plate, the heat plate has less of an ability to warp due to both the added mass and rigid nature of the glass. Without being fully bonded together, the heat plate will continue to warp beneath the glass; this will lift or lower the glass in an uneven manner over time, not allowing the probe to get the most accurate reading.
Excellent mod. I just implemented it on my K1 Max. I used a tempered glass for the CR-10 smart. It is exactly the same dimensions as for the K1 Max: 310x315x4mm. Just the printed channel to install on the back of the build plate does not fit on the K1 Max, I had to modify it. There's a temperature probe (I think) on the way, under the print bed. So I had to Dremel the channel to be able to fit it.
Thanks for sharing! I will be modifying the channel to work better for the K1 Max once I receive more information. I'll also check out the CR-10 plate. Thanks again for the info!
@@peersupportcounselor1904 I've never had to use the CR-10 plate since I don't have a max. I know several other users have reported to me that the CR-10 glass works well for the Max
I just got one of there AI k1 max. Tbh first printer I've brough. I'm pretty use to modifying my own toys. But with this hobby I think I might need some friends. @@peersupportcounselor1904
Hello! Did you measure the temperature at the top of the bed before and after this modification to find out how much this extra layer of glass affects heat dissipation?
Awesome question! Yes, I have. The unmodded bed with a PEI sheet measures 2°C less than the set temperature. With the mod, we generally get around 3°C less than the heated temperature. I expected more temperature loss than a single degree Celsius, so this was a pleasant surprise. If I had experienced more loss, I would have mentioned it in the video, but the loss was so little that I never mentioned it.
Have placed order for parts for k1 max. 3m sheets are too expensive here so ordered a 25mm 3m tape and will use that. My k1m bed turns into a soup bowl once its heated. Will share update once I've installed it.
Great Mod. is there a reason why yiu never had 4 holes drilled in the glass plate to allow the heat plate to be removed of needed? no holes, means this is close to a permanent install, that may break the glass if it needed to be removed.
I saw your video a couple of hours before and gave it some thought. The idea behind this is to get a glass bed to properly flatten the bed. As far as I can tell you do not need a glass bed for this. You changed already the way of the bed is beeing attached to the bed frame. As you use springs (or those silicon thingy) you can level your bed with a klipper macro (screw tilt adjust - which is installable by the helper script when you root your machine) to make it aligned. One more thought of mine, if you allow me. The bed you used is equipped with some chemical stuff (the grid on the one side of the bed). This will become loose or even melt under temp and pressure. You might ruin your whole bed with this. I would suggest trying this mod without the glass bed and the spacer and just use the klipper macro.
One thing to add is that you can't use screw tilt adjust as all 3 Z-screw are connected by a single closed belt, not independent motors. Also, the coating on the glass is carborundum coating. You are going to melt or damage that short of a hard steel scraper.
I used a 1/4” tooling plate. It worked out fine. But I am interested adding the springs and knobs as well. Do you have a reference or link for installing the eddy current probe? I just tripped across this video. You just got another subscription, thanks!
Tool plating works great too. Unfortunately, it’s a bit more expensive and not as easy to acquire for many people. I also have a video on installing the Eddy Probe for the K1 machine. Here’s the link: th-cam.com/video/R1xVWi40kcA/w-d-xo.html
Amazing. Is there a way around modding the probe? I would like to keep the load cells and skip the knobs. Would the mod work if I simply glue the glass on the aluminum after drilling holes in the glass to access the screws for future maintenance if needed?
Yes this would work. This is what I recommend to users who would like to stay stock. Just skip the leveling kit part and the mod still works for the glass.
@@ZakWlak For what it's worth, about any glass is going to be good and flat. I used to print on a sheet of mirror. Since you're not going to be thermally shocking it, you don't necessarily need tempered glass. You could very likely get a glass shop to hook you up.
@@IN10THRC thanks for the suggestion! I kinda thought of a workaround I’ll just glue the screw heads (long screws) in their countersinks with some high temp epoxy. This way I can always take the bed apart from below without needing to unscrew from the top. I’ll see how it goes when I have the time to work on it
I've did it before with my Ender 3. Glued the magnetic base to the glass, and used the PEI sheet over that. Worked well for the flatness, but was too much mass for my stock Y axis. On my K1 max I'm planning to do the same, as I already don't use the nozzle leveling, I've installed a BTT Microprobe v2
Hey, how did you connect the BTT Eddy on the K1 Max? On mine, all the USB headers were already populated on the motherboard. There was a female micro USB on the board, so I plugged it there but haven't tested it yet. Edit: I read too quickly, you didn't use the BTT Eddy but the microprobe V2. I'm guessing it has a different connector and you were able to plug it on the tool head board.
Awesome vid. I have been printing for a couple of years and I am really fed up with all the mods you have to do to the current 3d printers. Do you know a 3d printer that does not require (or almost no) upgrades in order to print great? K2? Bambu?
Unfortunately 3d printing is not yet at the appliance state. the deeper you dig the more you find out that all printers even Bambu have issues. quite often these issues are similar in nature. Some companies just have a better marketing team. I will be doing some videos soon on this topic.
There have been a few people who have tried this. One reports that it works well, the other reports that it did not. I will be testing this to see how viable it is.
I have two choices buying my first printer, either K1 Max or Flashforge AD5M Pro. The K1 Max is larger which is good, but from reading I got the impression that the Flashforge is better quality. Which one would you recommend?
I've personally deal with 6 K1C's and 3 ADM5 machines. I will say, the ADM5 comes ahead when it comes to quality control and build quality in my opinion. Flash Forge has a few software related things that I do not personally like but these are the same software issue with Creality. Mostly they want you to use their slicer, which can be gotten around. In my experience the ADM5 Pro has had a far superior out of box experience than the Creality machines.
I just did this mod and it’s a game changer. I have a question now that its thicker with the glass do we need to bring up the temperature when printing? I pray PLA with the regular bed at 60.
Through my testing I've only found a 1c drop in temperature with this mod. I tend to leave my slicer setting alone and not account for this single degree drop.
Thank you for another excellent well-presented instructions. I Did not do the build plate channel print upgrade but instead used two longer screws and that works just fine for my needs. One question I have the K1C, and I found the nozzle wipe function before a print useful at back of the bed on the silicon small section, any way to get that geocode reinstated or is that not an option. Not a major but a nice to have. Keep up the great work
The nozzle wipe function would require custom gcode. I know a few people have mentioned trying to replicate this function. the good thing about modding with Klipper and open source is there's almost always someone who comes up with the solution you are looking for.
If you do this mod do you have to replace anything else? I see on your printables you have to put on a Btteddy. Will you still be able to level the bed and will the heat be accurate? thanks S
If you use the springs and knobs portion of the mod you will need an after market probe. you can skip the leveling kit and just use the glass portion and this mod will work with stock auto bed leveling. In my testing the bed only suffers a 1 degree temperature difference.
When doing this mod without an aftermarket probe, you'll experience a "movement not smooth" error with the Creality firmware. However, you can do this mod and skip the leveling kit portion and only do the glass mod portion. The use of springs on the load cells returns inaccurate readings that the firmware isn't able to make sense of. Skipping the use of springs and knobs will still allow the glass mod portion to work with the firmware.
@@zerodotcmdI did this mod today on my K1 Max and used 8x4x15mm medium load die springs (B0B6PQ4BV3). I also used a 310x310 glass bed with longer M3 screws at the back of the bed. Pushed the glass against the screw shafts (screw heads above glass surface). There is a small ~5mm ledge/gap at the back under the mag and steel sheet, but the nozzle only wipes in that area anyway and it looks and functions like factory. Stock PRTouch still works perfectly fine. No errors and I went from a 0.48mm mesh to 0.16mm. So thanks for shining a light on this mod, but you're incorrect about needing a probe.
K1 Max with LIDAR. When I used a Glass plate on top, I found that the increased distance above the white-black dot reference matrix used by the camera and the LIDAR for the flow test would not work. The printer tried several times, then gave up and skipped the flow calibration. The limiting factor was how far down I could crank the plate with knobs, but I had trouble getting to a point it was butting up against the cables to the heating elements. The matrix is intended to be on the same level as the build plate. What is the workaround for that? Now, with this mod, it would be lower by the thickness of the mag sheet. I’m keen to do this mod, but I’m afraid I will bump into the same problem. Can you comment?
I just had another look, and I suspect all I will need to do is shim the matrix bracket to the thickness of the glass addition. It looks seriously doable.
@@zerodotcmd I’m getting good results with the LIDAR, so I’d rather not lose it. I’m probably going to do this mod. My approach to levelling was to measure the stock standoffs (spacers) and then calculate how long they would need to be to bring the bed into level, then print new ones in ABS or ASA and swap them out. A few goes at that, and it gets pretty close. I have done the springs but had them wound so tight to get the LIDAR to work; they were essentially solid. If I shim the LIDAR reference platform, I should be able to ease the tension on the springs to a reasonable amount.
@@zerodotcmd Adjusting the four corners, rather than trying to shim the Z-Screws and doing Triple Integral Calculus to figure out the shims is much mo' bettah!
Will the btt eddy still work with this Sub Bed Mod? Ive watched both this and the BTT eddy install and you never mentioned if the glass bed will interfere with it
The short answer would be no. The longer answer would be that adding a glass plate does add some mass, which could, in theory, slightly increase wear on the Y-axis motor over time. However, this effect is minimal, and the belt and motor are more likely to degrade due to normal use long before the added mass from the glass plate causes significant issues.
@@zerodotcmd Thank you very much. It seemed to be a big deal depending on who's being ask for the belt and motor. The motors seem more than capable on the printer I have. Thank you again! I'm very likely to do this mod
I don't understand why you must change the probe also. I get that adding the probe would help with a more accurate mesh but couldn't I do this bed upgrade to get rid of the warp?
You can do the Glass portion of the mod to get rid of warping. but you cannot do the leveling knobs without an after market probe. The load cells "four stand off points" require rigid contact to work correctly. Using the springs for leveling make it so these cells are no longer useful.
@@zerodotcmd Last question, hopefully lol. I found this because I ended up with the strain gauge failure. Does adding the eddy probe and rooting eliminate having to fix that? Thanks
@@rocky6428 Yes adding an after market probe completely removes the need for Load Cells / Strain Gauges. These are complete garbage the way Creality implemented them. Thankfully we can completely solve this problem by using after market probes. I have another video coming out soon talking more about the Load Cells and completely deleting them from the printer. It should be out later this week.
i already have my (2) k1 max's rooted & just got all the parts for this & the eddy upgrade, but how does this work with the screw tilt adjust if i can no longer use the tap sensor? i feel like i am missing something?
@@zerodotcmd so i use silicone spacers , after modding the eddy, i need to run a bed mesh, tune the dials, run mesh, tune, mesh, tune, etc...? then check daily or weekly to see if the wheels moved any & do it again if so? it seems counter productive, how often do you realign the wheels? I just need to know what to expect, any other tips?
@@-SeanyBoy- It depends on the user. some users claim to have gone months without needing a re-adjustment. While others go about every other week or so. There are options to making sure the knobs don't back off over time. Locktite being one. I'm currently working on coming out with a permanent fix for the knobs backing off.
😮Genius Idea! How does it affect overall printquality? Will you do a followup Video on that? ...i need to do this mod aswell, thank you so much for sharing!🎉
You're welcome I'm glad you found the video helpful. The overall print quality isn't effected by the bed outside of adhesion and first layer. This does give you a better and smoother first layer in my experience. I will be doing more followup videos.
@zerodotcmd I'm glad someone has, I was getting stressed reading all the platform failures. But I'm glad it's a relatively easy correction. Also.. you know where I can get armour files? Kinda brought one so I can save myself 100s of hours building cosplays.
@@TheunknownlogicOG the best place to find files would be Thangs.com Its not only a file host but its search is multi site search, and by far the best model search in 3D printing.
@@MGSmartech with the mod a cleaning brush isn't needed since the mod uses an after market probe that doesn't use tap for probing. The SimpleAF firmware makes use of purge lines instead of nozzle brushes.
@@zerodotcmd io ho tutto originale. Ho installato klipper. Quando avvio il livellamento automatico non fa la pulizia ugello ma quando avvio la stampa fa la pulizia e anche la linea di spurgo. Di quale sonda parli? Scusa l’ignoranza :)
Thanks for the question, and welcome to 3D printing! The stock method used for probing the bed relies on touch. Touch probing requires a rigid attachment between the heat plate and load cells. When this mod is used with the spring leveling kit, it removes these rigid contact points, making it so the stock probe can no longer work.
While the product may claim excellent adhesion, glass beds are notorious for having adhesion issues. One other reason is that using magnetic plates opens up more options for different bed and texture types, allowing for better compatibility with a larger number of filaments and finish types.
@@zerodotcmd Fair enough, makes sense. Thanks! I've ordered the glassplate and buildplate B (which has the magnetic sheet) the 3M adhesion link is dead but we've got a big roll of that stuff at work so i'll be doing this mod soon thanks to you! Hopefully it fixed the massive warping
Could we get a mod like this for the K1 max. I'm a 100% new guy to this world but I understand the importance of a level solid foundation. Thank you this video is awesome all the same
Instead of the chemically treated Creality glass plate, you could (should?) use one made of borosilicate glass. These are absolutely temperature-resistant and -stable and have long been available in the right size on the third-party 3d printing market. They are also significantly cheaper. (The Creality plate is probably also made of this glass. However, the impregnation is more harmful than useful).
I agree with this. The parts I list are listed because I know they are easily available for everyone without digging to much. My goal is to provide the basic information and let people go from there. There are definitely way better glass options out there.
If you use the springs and knobs for leveling the load cells will not work. You can however do this mod without the springs and knobs. This still helps fight warping as this is the primary function of the Glass Mod.
@@zerodotcmd thanks for the explanation!! do you know if the creality glass bed is tempered glass? i would like to get rid of the original bed all together, my mesh is really really bad. but i dont think i can drill holes in tempered glass.
@@evanovski The leveling knobs will not work with the original spacers since they are rigid. There would be nothing for the knobs to compress. The compression is how the knobs are able to level the bed. If someone would like to keep the load cells the best option would be to do the Glass mod portion minus the leveling kit.
@zerodotcmd bedankt voor je reactie. Mijn vraag is de schroef m4 voor de bed, welke moet ik kopen. Want de set van amazon verkopen ze niet in mijn land.
So instead of going with cheaper steel that doesn't warp as much, they went with aluminum that costs way more and warps all over the show. Ya can't make this shit up.😂😂😂
The only way to install without an after market probe is to not use the springs and knobs portion of the mod. the load cells require a rigid mounting to the heat plate to work accurately.
This mod is nothing short of amazing. You're a genius my friend. I need to do this mod. Glass due to the nature of how it is made, floating on tin ore guarantees near perfect flatness. Thank you so much mate.
Great Video! I need to do this Mod. Thank You for Parts List. I hope we can see more videos on K1 series from you. Thanks Again!!!
Thank you! I will have more videos on the K1 machines coming soon.
I installed the springs and wheel nuts on my k1 max a few months ago and it has been great. I do wish I found this kit you posted earlier because the one I bought have the larger wheels and they stick out from under the bed. I had to use the stock plastic spacers under the frame to keep the wheels straight under the bed. If I could find just the wheels I might get them. I had long screws that worked in the house already. But I haven’t seen this glass sub bed mod before.
I searched for quite a while before I was able to find wheels that would fit inside the frame. They do tend to go out of stock quick to so I've had to keep an eye on them. I came up with this glass bed mod since I have to many K1C machines to justify buying machined heat plates.
@@zerodotcmdwhat about putting the glass bed right onto the heated bed and then just using the magnetic sheet to put the metal build plate on top of the glass and use minimal adhesion on the bed. Considering the machine isn’t a bed slinger style machine it’s not going to be moving.
When the heat plate is fully bonded to the glass plate, the heat plate has less of an ability to warp due to both the added mass and rigid nature of the glass. Without being fully bonded together, the heat plate will continue to warp beneath the glass; this will lift or lower the glass in an uneven manner over time, not allowing the probe to get the most accurate reading.
Excellent mod. I just implemented it on my K1 Max. I used a tempered glass for the CR-10 smart. It is exactly the same dimensions as for the K1 Max: 310x315x4mm. Just the printed channel to install on the back of the build plate does not fit on the K1 Max, I had to modify it. There's a temperature probe (I think) on the way, under the print bed. So I had to Dremel the channel to be able to fit it.
Thanks for sharing! I will be modifying the channel to work better for the K1 Max once I receive more information. I'll also check out the CR-10 plate. Thanks again for the info!
@@zerodotcmddid you ever get the cr10 glass plate? I’m getting a k1 max for Christmas
I do have a dremel too😊
@@peersupportcounselor1904 I've never had to use the CR-10 plate since I don't have a max. I know several other users have reported to me that the CR-10 glass works well for the Max
I just got one of there AI k1 max. Tbh first printer I've brough. I'm pretty use to modifying my own toys. But with this hobby I think I might need some friends. @@peersupportcounselor1904
On the K1 Max you also need to make the platform higher that contains the lidar sticker or it will generate Lidar Error
This is true if you use the original LiDAR sensor.
Any printing stl or the thickness needed to rise it
Thanks
Yeah i need this too. Meybe just print square that much thick as new glass.
Hello!
Did you measure the temperature at the top of the bed before and after this modification to find out how much this extra layer of glass affects heat dissipation?
Awesome question! Yes, I have. The unmodded bed with a PEI sheet measures 2°C less than the set temperature. With the mod, we generally get around 3°C less than the heated temperature. I expected more temperature loss than a single degree Celsius, so this was a pleasant surprise. If I had experienced more loss, I would have mentioned it in the video, but the loss was so little that I never mentioned it.
Have placed order for parts for k1 max. 3m sheets are too expensive here so ordered a 25mm 3m tape and will use that. My k1m bed turns into a soup bowl once its heated. Will share update once I've installed it.
Great Mod. is there a reason why yiu never had 4 holes drilled in the glass plate to allow the heat plate to be removed of needed? no holes, means this is close to a permanent install, that may break the glass if it needed to be removed.
That would be ideal, however the glass is almost impossible to drill through.
I saw your video a couple of hours before and gave it some thought.
The idea behind this is to get a glass bed to properly flatten the bed. As far as I can tell you do not need a glass bed for this. You changed already the way of the bed is beeing attached to the bed frame. As you use springs (or those silicon thingy) you can level your bed with a klipper macro (screw tilt adjust - which is installable by the helper script when you root your machine) to make it aligned.
One more thought of mine, if you allow me. The bed you used is equipped with some chemical stuff (the grid on the one side of the bed). This will become loose or even melt under temp and pressure. You might ruin your whole bed with this.
I would suggest trying this mod without the glass bed and the spacer and just use the klipper macro.
The main issue is, even if the bed is flatten the heat plate warps. The primary reason for the glass is to fight against this warping effect.
@@zerodotcmd I see your point and you are absolutely correct.
One thing to add is that you can't use screw tilt adjust as all 3 Z-screw are connected by a single closed belt, not independent motors. Also, the coating on the glass is carborundum coating. You are going to melt or damage that short of a hard steel scraper.
I used a 1/4” tooling plate. It worked out fine. But I am interested adding the springs and knobs as well. Do you have a reference or link for installing the eddy current probe? I just tripped across this video. You just got another subscription, thanks!
Tool plating works great too. Unfortunately, it’s a bit more expensive and not as easy to acquire for many people. I also have a video on installing the Eddy Probe for the K1 machine. Here’s the link: th-cam.com/video/R1xVWi40kcA/w-d-xo.html
👍
Amazing. Is there a way around modding the probe? I would like to keep the load cells and skip the knobs. Would the mod work if I simply glue the glass on the aluminum after drilling holes in the glass to access the screws for future maintenance if needed?
Yes this would work. This is what I recommend to users who would like to stay stock. Just skip the leveling kit part and the mod still works for the glass.
Great! Do you know if their glass is tempered or not and whether anyone has successfully drilled it before?
Ok it says it’s tempered on the amazon listing so no drilling :(
@@ZakWlak For what it's worth, about any glass is going to be good and flat. I used to print on a sheet of mirror. Since you're not going to be thermally shocking it, you don't necessarily need tempered glass. You could very likely get a glass shop to hook you up.
@@IN10THRC thanks for the suggestion! I kinda thought of a workaround I’ll just glue the screw heads (long screws) in their countersinks with some high temp epoxy. This way I can always take the bed apart from below without needing to unscrew from the top. I’ll see how it goes when I have the time to work on it
I've did it before with my Ender 3.
Glued the magnetic base to the glass, and used the PEI sheet over that. Worked well for the flatness, but was too much mass for my stock Y axis.
On my K1 max I'm planning to do the same, as I already don't use the nozzle leveling, I've installed a BTT Microprobe v2
Thankfully the added mass is no problem with Core X Y machines. so its a perfect pairing!
Hey, how did you connect the BTT Eddy on the K1 Max? On mine, all the USB headers were already populated on the motherboard. There was a female micro USB on the board, so I plugged it there but haven't tested it yet.
Edit: I read too quickly, you didn't use the BTT Eddy but the microprobe V2. I'm guessing it has a different connector and you were able to plug it on the tool head board.
@@leloupgris yes, the BTT MP is connected directly to the toolhead board. You just need to have a small cable for the Creality CR-Touch probe
Awesome vid. I have been printing for a couple of years and I am really fed up with all the mods you have to do to the current 3d printers. Do you know a 3d printer that does not require (or almost no) upgrades in order to print great? K2? Bambu?
Unfortunately 3d printing is not yet at the appliance state. the deeper you dig the more you find out that all printers even Bambu have issues. quite often these issues are similar in nature. Some companies just have a better marketing team. I will be doing some videos soon on this topic.
Qidi 4 plus has blown me away. Feels as easy and quality as my bambu
I would love to play with one of those!
Geat mod!!! What would happen if you put a magnetic sheet on both sides of the glass and magnetically attach the glass to the aluminum bed?
There have been a few people who have tried this. One reports that it works well, the other reports that it did not. I will be testing this to see how viable it is.
I have two choices buying my first printer, either K1 Max or Flashforge AD5M Pro. The K1 Max is larger which is good, but from reading I got the impression that the Flashforge is better quality. Which one would you recommend?
I've personally deal with 6 K1C's and 3 ADM5 machines. I will say, the ADM5 comes ahead when it comes to quality control and build quality in my opinion. Flash Forge has a few software related things that I do not personally like but these are the same software issue with Creality. Mostly they want you to use their slicer, which can be gotten around. In my experience the ADM5 Pro has had a far superior out of box experience than the Creality machines.
I just did this mod and it’s a game changer. I have a question now that its thicker with the glass do we need to bring up the temperature when printing? I pray PLA with the regular bed at 60.
Through my testing I've only found a 1c drop in temperature with this mod. I tend to leave my slicer setting alone and not account for this single degree drop.
Thank you for another excellent well-presented instructions. I Did not do the build plate channel print upgrade but instead used two longer screws and that works just fine for my needs. One question I have the K1C, and I found the nozzle wipe function before a print useful at back of the bed on the silicon small section, any way to get that geocode reinstated or is that not an option. Not a major but a nice to have. Keep up the great work
The nozzle wipe function would require custom gcode. I know a few people have mentioned trying to replicate this function. the good thing about modding with Klipper and open source is there's almost always someone who comes up with the solution you are looking for.
If you do this mod do you have to replace anything else? I see on your printables you have to put on a Btteddy. Will you still be able to level the bed and will the heat be accurate? thanks S
If you use the springs and knobs portion of the mod you will need an after market probe. you can skip the leveling kit and just use the glass portion and this mod will work with stock auto bed leveling. In my testing the bed only suffers a 1 degree temperature difference.
So what happens if you do this mod without doing the probe mod?
When doing this mod without an aftermarket probe, you'll experience a "movement not smooth" error with the Creality firmware. However, you can do this mod and skip the leveling kit portion and only do the glass mod portion. The use of springs on the load cells returns inaccurate readings that the firmware isn't able to make sense of. Skipping the use of springs and knobs will still allow the glass mod portion to work with the firmware.
@@zerodotcmd ok cool so essentially just put the glass plate on top of the existing plate? Might as well just print on a glass bed then...hmm
@@zerodotcmdI did this mod today on my K1 Max and used 8x4x15mm medium load die springs (B0B6PQ4BV3). I also used a 310x310 glass bed with longer M3 screws at the back of the bed. Pushed the glass against the screw shafts (screw heads above glass surface). There is a small ~5mm ledge/gap at the back under the mag and steel sheet, but the nozzle only wipes in that area anyway and it looks and functions like factory. Stock PRTouch still works perfectly fine. No errors and I went from a 0.48mm mesh to 0.16mm. So thanks for shining a light on this mod, but you're incorrect about needing a probe.
K1 Max with LIDAR. When I used a Glass plate on top, I found that the increased distance above the white-black dot reference matrix used by the camera and the LIDAR for the flow test would not work. The printer tried several times, then gave up and skipped the flow calibration. The limiting factor was how far down I could crank the plate with knobs, but I had trouble getting to a point it was butting up against the cables to the heating elements. The matrix is intended to be on the same level as the build plate. What is the workaround for that? Now, with this mod, it would be lower by the thickness of the mag sheet. I’m keen to do this mod, but I’m afraid I will bump into the same problem. Can you comment?
I just had another look, and I suspect all I will need to do is shim the matrix bracket to the thickness of the glass addition. It looks seriously doable.
I've had no experience with the LIDAR system. I'm in love with the after market probes.
@@zerodotcmd I’m getting good results with the LIDAR, so I’d rather not lose it. I’m probably going to do this mod. My approach to levelling was to measure the stock standoffs (spacers) and then calculate how long they would need to be to bring the bed into level, then print new ones in ABS or ASA and swap them out. A few goes at that, and it gets pretty close. I have done the springs but had them wound so tight to get the LIDAR to work; they were essentially solid. If I shim the LIDAR reference platform, I should be able to ease the tension on the springs to a reasonable amount.
@@Rotorhead124 Yeah it doesn't take much to get the bed level. Barely letting off the springs can do the job most of the time.
@@zerodotcmd Adjusting the four corners, rather than trying to shim the Z-Screws and doing Triple Integral Calculus to figure out the shims is much mo' bettah!
Will the btt eddy still work with this Sub Bed Mod? Ive watched both this and the BTT eddy install and you never mentioned if the glass bed will interfere with it
The BTT Eddy will work with the glass bed mod. The Eddy reads off the top of the flex build plate.
@@zerodotcmd Awesome! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly too
have you tested temperature differences on top of the bed, since its now having to heat both aluminum and the glass plate?
Yes the temp difference is only a -1 drop in temperature from the plate to the glass.
Can I drill four holes in glass? I wanna keep stock screws access from the top
With enough patients and the right tools this is possible.
@@zerodotcmd okay than 😅 I would try and report back
@@anatoliylarin best of luck. And glass plates are cheap so not a huge risk :)
Does this work on the K2 Plus?
Technically the glass mod can work on any printer. But I haven't personally worked with the K2
Can you this glass mod without the need of the probe
Yes. You can do this by not using the knobs and springs portion of the mod and only using the glass portion of the mod.
nice man! pro!
Thanks!
Can I do this mod on a cr10 smart that is auto leveling and does not have the adjusting springs?
Technically you can 3M glass to any 3d printers heat plate. a few modifications may or may not be needed based on the printer.
Is there any truth to the thought that using a glass plate adds significant load and with that wear to a bed slinger's Y-axis motor?
The short answer would be no. The longer answer would be that adding a glass plate does add some mass, which could, in theory, slightly increase wear on the Y-axis motor over time. However, this effect is minimal, and the belt and motor are more likely to degrade due to normal use long before the added mass from the glass plate causes significant issues.
@@zerodotcmd Thank you very much. It seemed to be a big deal depending on who's being ask for the belt and motor. The motors seem more than capable on the printer I have. Thank you again! I'm very likely to do this mod
Good job 👍
Thanks!
I don't understand why you must change the probe also. I get that adding the probe would help with a more accurate mesh but couldn't I do this bed upgrade to get rid of the warp?
You can do the Glass portion of the mod to get rid of warping. but you cannot do the leveling knobs without an after market probe. The load cells "four stand off points" require rigid contact to work correctly. Using the springs for leveling make it so these cells are no longer useful.
@@zerodotcmd I appreciate the reply. Thank you. love the videos
@@zerodotcmd Last question, hopefully lol. I found this because I ended up with the strain gauge failure. Does adding the eddy probe and rooting eliminate having to fix that? Thanks
@@rocky6428 Yes adding an after market probe completely removes the need for Load Cells / Strain Gauges. These are complete garbage the way Creality implemented them. Thankfully we can completely solve this problem by using after market probes. I have another video coming out soon talking more about the Load Cells and completely deleting them from the printer. It should be out later this week.
@@zerodotcmd Awesome!!! Thank you
i already have my (2) k1 max's rooted & just got all the parts for this & the eddy upgrade, but how does this work with the screw tilt adjust if i can no longer use the tap sensor? i feel like i am missing something?
@@-SeanyBoy- The glass mod isn't compatible with the tap/load cells if you use the springs and knobs. The screw tilt macro does work.
@@zerodotcmd so i use silicone spacers , after modding the eddy, i need to run a bed mesh, tune the dials, run mesh, tune, mesh, tune, etc...? then check daily or weekly to see if the wheels moved any & do it again if so? it seems counter productive, how often do you realign the wheels? I just need to know what to expect, any other tips?
@@-SeanyBoy- It depends on the user. some users claim to have gone months without needing a re-adjustment. While others go about every other week or so. There are options to making sure the knobs don't back off over time. Locktite being one. I'm currently working on coming out with a permanent fix for the knobs backing off.
😮Genius Idea! How does it affect overall printquality? Will you do a followup Video on that? ...i need to do this mod aswell, thank you so much for sharing!🎉
You're welcome I'm glad you found the video helpful. The overall print quality isn't effected by the bed outside of adhesion and first layer. This does give you a better and smoother first layer in my experience. I will be doing more followup videos.
@@zerodotcmd i'm really excited for this Mod, gonna try it on my Kobra 2 max also😁
That's awesome make sure to let me know how it goes!
@@zerodotcmd I would also be interested in seeing what the effects of this mod are.
@@unknownVS13 I'll be doing a follow up video soon
Ibe brought one and this was my biggest concern but as makers i knew someone would figure this out. X
It was a problem that needed solved. :)
@zerodotcmd I'm glad someone has, I was getting stressed reading all the platform failures. But I'm glad it's a relatively easy correction.
Also.. you know where I can get armour files?
Kinda brought one so I can save myself 100s of hours building cosplays.
@@TheunknownlogicOG the best place to find files would be Thangs.com
Its not only a file host but its search is multi site search, and by far the best model search in 3D printing.
Hi, sorry for my English :D . How do I do for the wedding cleaning comb?
Its OK :) sorry I do not understand though. You can use your language and google will be able to translate it for me. Then I should be able to help :)
@ scusami :) . La mia domanda è …con questa modifica. Come fai con la spazzola di pulizia per l’ugello?
@@MGSmartech with the mod a cleaning brush isn't needed since the mod uses an after market probe that doesn't use tap for probing. The SimpleAF firmware makes use of purge lines instead of nozzle brushes.
@@zerodotcmd io ho tutto originale. Ho installato klipper. Quando avvio il livellamento automatico non fa la pulizia ugello ma quando avvio la stampa fa la pulizia e anche la linea di spurgo. Di quale sonda parli? Scusa l’ignoranza :)
@@MGSmartech I use both the Eddy and the Cartographer3D probe. I highly recommend the Cartographer. The Eddy not so much.
I cant find anywhere 310x315 3d glass bed :(
for my k1 max
Here is the glass for the Creality K1 Max It's one of my Amazon Affiliate links amzn.to/4fjiwxb
I’m confused why this requires the btt eddy mod. I’m brand new to this so I need some education please. Thanks.
Thanks for the question, and welcome to 3D printing! The stock method used for probing the bed relies on touch. Touch probing requires a rigid attachment between the heat plate and load cells. When this mod is used with the spring leveling kit, it removes these rigid contact points, making it so the stock probe can no longer work.
@ understood thanks! How hard is it to run btt eddy with a rooted K1 Max with Fluidd or Mainsail?
Glassplate says it has excellent adhesion. Any reason you didnt just taped the glass on and call it done?
While the product may claim excellent adhesion, glass beds are notorious for having adhesion issues. One other reason is that using magnetic plates opens up more options for different bed and texture types, allowing for better compatibility with a larger number of filaments and finish types.
@@zerodotcmd Fair enough, makes sense. Thanks! I've ordered the glassplate and buildplate B (which has the magnetic sheet) the 3M adhesion link is dead but we've got a big roll of that stuff at work so i'll be doing this mod soon thanks to you! Hopefully it fixed the massive warping
@@eazygfx4815 Awesome. best of luck with the mod! Thanks for letting me know the 3M link is dead. I'll fix that now.
Could we get a mod like this for the K1 max. I'm a 100% new guy to this world but I understand the importance of a level solid foundation. Thank you this video is awesome all the same
This mod works on the K1 Max in the same way. I have all the parts listed in the description for the Max. the steps are the same as the K1 and K1C 🙂
So now you got the zero out?
I'm not sure I understand the question.
Hi, will it still work with cartopgrapher?
Absolutely! ☺️
Instead of the chemically treated Creality glass plate, you could (should?) use one made of borosilicate glass. These are absolutely temperature-resistant and -stable and have long been available in the right size on the third-party 3d printing market. They are also significantly cheaper. (The Creality plate is probably also made of this glass. However, the impregnation is more harmful than useful).
I agree with this. The parts I list are listed because I know they are easily available for everyone without digging to much. My goal is to provide the basic information and let people go from there. There are definitely way better glass options out there.
why is the prob required for the mod? will it not work with the oem probing
If you use the springs and knobs for leveling the load cells will not work. You can however do this mod without the springs and knobs. This still helps fight warping as this is the primary function of the Glass Mod.
@@zerodotcmd thanks for the explanation!! do you know if the creality glass bed is tempered glass? i would like to get rid of the original bed all together, my mesh is really really bad. but i dont think i can drill holes in tempered glass.
@@zerodotcmd what if the spacers are retained but levelling knobs are used.....will the load cells still work?
@@evanovski The leveling knobs will not work with the original spacers since they are rigid. There would be nothing for the knobs to compress. The compression is how the knobs are able to level the bed. If someone would like to keep the load cells the best option would be to do the Glass mod portion minus the leveling kit.
Hoi Vraagje welke m4 diameter moet ik hebben? 12mm 16mm 18mm
I'm sorry, I'm not sure I fully understand the question. But would be happy to help if I understood better.
@zerodotcmd bedankt voor je reactie. Mijn vraag is de schroef m4 voor de bed, welke moet ik kopen. Want de set van amazon verkopen ze niet in mijn land.
@@appadove9369 Sorry for the late response. The m4 screws are 35mm long with a 8mm diameter screw head.
@@zerodotcmd dankje wel
Great video sir
Thank you!
had the same idea for a while now ;)
I'll say it does make sense.
Awesome
Mod done, with some changes... I will post on your Discord.
@@kljw66 awesome can't wait to see
It's hilarious to me that they didn't consider any of this when they were building it.
I quite often find myself wishing I could talk to engineers and designers so I could really know what they are thinking.
Who is this? Brad Pitts brother? 😂❤
I've tried to keep it a secret all these years! Shhh.
So instead of going with cheaper steel that doesn't warp as much, they went with aluminum that costs way more and warps all over the show. Ya can't make this shit up.😂😂😂
That's corporate. They make stupid decisions.
They probably did it to move the magnet from sheet to bed
For a moment I thought you will never go ahead
Takes a while I guess.
Do I need to install something like the BTT eddy of I make the glass bed mod?
The only way to install without an after market probe is to not use the springs and knobs portion of the mod. the load cells require a rigid mounting to the heat plate to work accurately.