Safety note...........I saw you cross cut with the rip fence and push stick......this is ready for a kick back as the piece tends to turn and bind against the blade. Remedy. ......use a miter gauge with out the fence unless you use a spacer clearance block attached to the fence for repeated length cuts . But the wood must clear the fence before touching the blade. I was a woodshop teacher for 35 years and have seen many kickback doing this so keep it safe and good information thank you
Good idea. Crosscutting with the fence in place has always felt a little sketchy. But I do it so infrequently that I've never taken the time to learn a better way. Thanks for the tip.
I was scared for him while watching it! Definately use your crosscut sled or a miter gauge. Have had kickback like that before and it is scary as hell.
Really good video! I have this saw and love it. Very well build and huge bang for the buck. I had one of the early 36-725T2's that had the motor failure. Two actually. The original one I bought and a second one to replace the first. I was on a dedicated 20 amp breaker and a heavy duty cord, so it was not related to that. After the second saw failure I reached out to Delta directly as I really liked the saw...other than the motors kept smoking. Since I was an "early adopter" Delta worked with me on a solution. Upon inspection, the blade brake had some sort of design flaw that caused it to shred leaving little pieces in the housing. This was accompanied by the smell of burning rubber. They also believed there might have been a capacitor issue. Delta handled the problem great and sold me as a customer due to the great service they gave me. Delta sent me another saw directly after having had their engineers inspect it to make sure all was good and paid to have mine shipped back to them for examination. Ever since that third saw they sent, everything has been fine. I believe whatever the problem was, they tracked it down and got it squared away for future saws.
Aaron - this is an awesome video. As other commenters have pointed out, you covered every important topic incuding power. Like most everyone my wood shop is in my garage and I don't have a dedicated 20 Amp circuit for my saw. What I've done short term is to plug the saw in to the garage door opener circuit as there's an outlet for the garage door motor in the rafters. I've got a Skilsaw SPT70 that's 15 amps and since I made this change it's worked well. Before I made the change the motor would stall out or shut off and just seemed not doing well. This isn't an ideal option because the overhead lights are on the same circuit, but it's way better than putting my saw on a 15 amp circuit with a shop vac. That's maybe what many people don't realize. A shop vac can draw 5 or more amps, maybe 10, so it's a very good idea to put your saw or other power tools on a separate circuit. Right now I'm going to cheapster route with an extension cord from the house to power the shop vac and heater. Again - great job reviewing this saw. I'm about to buy one.
Thanks for giving me the confidence to buy and the info needed for the buildout and tune up! I was skeptical regarding the motor complaints, I have mine on a 20 amp breaker, no sweat with the right amperage. You seriously should get a commission from Delta. I LOVE this saw, already have gotten a lot of use out of it in the last two months.
Outstanding presentation! Extremely useful information. I don't think it is a long winded video at all, YT algo's notwithstanding, I truly appreciate all the detail you have provided! Trust me, I have seen just about every video about the original variant of this saw. This one is at the top of the useful scale for the new model. Mostly, I want to thank you profusely for addressing and including the detailed decibel and noise information. Like you, I can't tolerate being an annoyance to the neighbors and as I am setting up my shop in the garage, noise levels are always at the top of the priority list. Also, I appreciate you addressing the negative reviews about defunct motors and power supply. May have been caught by this nuance. Also, the issue has apparently been addressed by Delta as a bad batch of capacitors and a recall was issued, if they are to be believed. Time will tell, probably various combinations of the two.
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Man I gotta tell ya - I wish like hell that you had done this a few months earlier! It would have let me know I wasn't crazy or stupid. As someone who owns this saw and is a happy customer after a few months of day-to-day use, I can say - if you are thinking of buying or have just bought this saw, this video (and this comment) is for you! I thought I would lose my mind before I got mine completely assembled and dialed in just right. Like so many who buy this saw, I was stepping up from a jobsite saw, and I had zero experience with this kind of assembly. There was conflicting reports on all kinds of things about this saw from the height of the tabletop to the voltage, so I wasn't exactly going into the whole thing with confidence anyway. (btw - i totally agree with your conspiracy theory - mine hasn't blinked!) While a clear head, some common sense, a lot of patience, and a willingness to tinker will definitely get it done, I think that for me, and I'm sure so many others, these faculties were still occupied trying to keep me from freaking out over the cash I'd just forked over, and I found myself using lots of four letter words and just wanting the damn thing to work. The best advice I can give is go to sleep and look it over tomorrow with fresh eyes. What I couldn't make sense of the night I bought the saw came quickly and clearly the next morning. I wish Delta would have set their buyers up for success with their awesome machine by including some awesome instructions, but they didn't. (If you've just purchased it - hang in there man! It's almost over!) If I could change only one thing about this saw, it would be for them to use something cheaper than those mysteriously substantial pieces of plastic shipping material and re-assign those funds to a rewrite of the instructions. I've seen it said several times that Delta's customer service was a joke, and I couldn't disagree more - what I got when I reached out to Delta wasn't anything that resembled customer service, and there was nothing funny about it. I very much feel that for $600, what did I expect? Apparently, Delta agrees. With a little distance between me and the painful assembly process, I can say that it forced me to get better acquainted with the machine as a whole. With my absence of experience doing anything of this kind, it ended up being one of those fabled blessings in disguise. That said, I love this saw, and unless something better pops up at the same price, I would definitely buy it again. Thanks for your awesome review of the Delta 36-725T2, and as someone who has owned and used this saw for months, I agree with just about every word you said.
I did the same thing for assembly of my 36-725. I started late afternoon, slept, and finished the following day. I stayed patient and actually enjoyed the assembly process as I was able to get it dialed in near perfectly. Lots of loosening, adjusting, and tightening to get it where I wanted it, mostly on those stamped steel table inserts. I really like the micro adjust screws on the fence. It's a precision machine now. I could run a 10 foot board through it and it would register the exact same thickness from beginning to end on my dial caliper.
this is the table saw I am getting from Santa. I'll also be asking for a Diablo blade. I use Diablo blades on my jig saw and I love them. Thank you. PS I am going to have my hubby watch as he will be assisting me in putting this together.
All the Diablo blades I’ve found are too narrow for the rising knife according to the manual (pg17). I’m not a particular safe guy, but a full functional riding knife is kinda a big deal. I think the biggest reason why after market blades a quieter, is they tend to be much thinner and cut a wider path
Years ago I had a Delta Unisaw which is an amazing saw. Very quiet and zero kickbacks. One person could easily run a full sheet of plywood through with the side and rear extension tables.
Thanks for the great and direct overview and review! This became my Christmas present from and for wife & I to use rehabilitating a 120yo farmhouse! Next, to add the router table to the open end...
I have had this saw for a couple of years and it’s pretty great. Definitely the most bang for the buck. I installed a router table in the extension wing.
Nice job with the review. I also find the fence system to be excellent, even as a standalone option for an old saw. I bought the 36-T30 T4 fence for my vintage 1969 Craftsman 113... and paid nearly $50 in shipping! It has the single piece mount rails (square guide rail is 62" alone) and well worth the extra cost to me. With my four extra cast table extensions (including a router table extension), I've got 36" right and 20" left rip capacity. I also agree 100% on your findings/toughts on the electric requirements and reported issues. I too, run my saw on a dedicated 20A circuit. BTW... When setting the fence, I make sure it is dead parallel to the blade and the miter slot first (all three parallel to each other), then adjust the backside of the fence away from the far end of the miter slot a few thousands (~0.002") just to make sure the back end of the blade never pinches the work.
Extremely well done Aaron ... this was a thoughtful, informative and well organized video. Your review just happened to address every topic I had concerning this saw. I couldn't agree with you more about the woes of starving an induction motor of power ... it is a recipe for disaster if not addressed before turning this saw on for the first time. The cost of adding a dedicated 20 amp circuit for this saw would be an investment well spent. Not only will you save your saw, but how do you associate a dollar amount to the frustration of your new saw going up in smoke - warranty or not? Thanks for your time and effort to share your experience with us ... Cheers, dave
Good review Aaron. I absolutely agree that this is the best value for under $1000. I have had this saw since April 2020 and have been completely satisfied. Between the Delta instructions and the Delta sponsored unboxing and assembly video, it was an easy assembly and setup. One thing I didn't see you check/adjust is the alignment of the blade being parallel to the miter slot. This is really critical. Mine was off a hair, but again, there are videos out there that detail the adjustment. You should also check the alignment of the riving knife to the blade. If it isn't aligned it can cause binding issues. Although the Delta instructions and the stamping on the riving knife specifically says not to used thin kerf blades, I am using the same Diablo D1050X and have no issues, but I spent time making sure that the riving knife was perfectly aligned. I have not found a Delta thin kerf riving knife. I am not a professional, I don't play one on TV and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night, so use a thin kerf blade with this riving knife at your own risk. For others of you out there, don't waste your money on the Delta Zero Clearance insert. Look up CalyssaWoodworks on etsy. This guy uses a CNC to custom fabricate them from MDF just for the 36-725 and T2 models. They are currently $26 for 1, $35 for 2, or $45 for 3 and ship free in the US. I purchased 3. One for my D1050X combination blade, one for my dado stack, and one for when I ruin the first one setting the bevel to 45 degrees without removing the insert (I know, right? oops.....). The other thing about these being MDF is that they don't ring like that steel and plastic one when the blade brushes it. Many people seem to obsess about the fact that the fence mounts and tubular rail are 2 piece. If that really bothers you then pop for another $600 and get the 36-5000T2, but that is about all you are getting for that DOUBLE THE PRICE. My experience is that it has not been an issue for me. One other thing. Look up a video and properly protect the cast iron top. Clean that packing oil off mineral spirits or something and then put a good coat or two of Johnsons Paste Wax on the cast iron top. It will protect it from rust and make your wood and jigs slide soooo smoothly. Enjoy!
Nice review. Thanks for the information. I'm i the market for a new table saw. I haven't had any problems with my Dewalt Jobsite table saw other than it being too small for my needs. I'm always learning new things and have picked up some priceless tips from the woodworking sites including yours and others. I'll return the favor and shoot you some advice on something I noticed. You may already be aware, but I figured I'd say something. If you want to calibrate your blade to 90, use a longer square that extends far enough past the throat plate so that you are squaring to the tabletop, not the throat plate for the obvious reason being the throat plate is not secured in place and Is usually never quite flush to the tabletop.
On that extension wing with the 6 extra screws, you're lucky you had those in the right rotation. They can be rotated 180 and fit the front and rear rails just fine, but the holes to affix to the table itself are offset by around 1/2 on one side vs the other, which is for an optional extension table.
I had a problem with my first delta product ,😢 it was a delta scroll saw that’s Motor from go seemed very sluggish, after a day or so the emergency pull out key just stopped working , understanding things happen ,enough was enough and I attempt to contact the store where I purchased it only to be told that I would have to contact you guessed it the company delta. After several attempts and several weeks of trying I get a response and was told of a parts manual they could send me and that it contains replacement parts I could purchase to repair it , also while attempting to contact them my warranty had expired luckily I mailed In the ext warranty sadly to be informed they did not receive it and basically I didn’t exist in their records. My saw will remain unfixed in my shop as a reminder of how a company does not care and it shows in their machines. Ps the parts manual was not free and the saw was only used twice✌️2 times .. So thanks for taking my money delta and god bless you , You really need it.
One of the best evaluations I have seen for any product. You hit a lot of important points like noise levels, current draw, assembly guidance. I decided to go ahead and get one, haven’t used it yet but I am confident it was a good decision thank you!
I'm looking at this saw right now! Maybe that's why your video came up in my suggestion. I'm glad they have been working on the motor issues. It now sounds like they have a remedy for the motor burn out issues. I hope I can get the updated version soon. Great video and review!
I own this saw. Another important step you overlooked was aligning the saw blade to the miter slot. This MUST be done with a dial indicator using the single "magic tooth" method. This adjustment makes the blade run true to the table front to back. It is after this that you do the fence alignment. I learned a long time ago to never trust the factory adjustment of blade to table/ miter slot. It took a while to get the saw setup but I have never regretted purchasing this saw. Best bang for the buck as far as I'm concerned. Have fun with the new saw, bro.
@@longfinger Essentially, you always measure with the same tooth. Measure at the front the of the blade with that tooth, then rotate the blade to the rear and measure with the same tooth.
I need to upgrade my one and only 28 year old Ryobi BT3000 table saw. This Delta table saw sure looks like a good candidate. Thank you for your excellent review! 👍
I had gone to Lowe's and looked at the contractor DeWalt and the Delta side by side. The Delta's motor isn't as powerful, but it's so much more saw, for the same price. Agreed on the Delta blade, as it struggles to get through hickory and black walnut, but I'd digging this saw!
Purchased this Delta saw at Lowe’s, couldn’t be happier. My only concern is the dust collection. I have a very healthy shop vac attached for dust removal, I think most of the dust is removed but there is always saw dust in the nooks and crannies around the table top. Other than the dust issue, your right this is a heck of a table saw for the money. Heck of a saw. 4.5 ⭐️ From Missouri
Ddelta now provides an updated quick assembly guide that's not bad, not great but seems to be improvement as I didnt have issues. if you pay attention to the descriptions of the (very similar looking and described) screws nuts and bolts. The quick guide stops after extension assemblies just leaving you with fence, guard... and fine tuning, which is why I'm here! thanks for the video
THANK YOU for addressing all the negative comments on Lowes. Seeing all those 1 star reviews has really caused me to hit the pause button on purchasing this saw. But your conspiracy theory makes sense. And since I have a 20 amp run from my box in my garage (where I'll be using it), you've given me more confidence in this saw. Great video!
Well, like I said in the video, it's just a guess. But I mean, even the cheapest, garbage, off-the-shelf induction motor should run longer than some people have experienced on Lowes.com...unless they're starved for voltage. And, considering 13.5 amps is at the upper end of what a 15 amp circuit can provide, even a dedicated one, I thought the idea of that being the cause of burn-outs is at least plausible.
As I have an older Rockwell (Delta) contractor saw that I've upgraded over the years, I think if I got this one that I'd transfer some of the parts from that saw to this one, like the solid extension tables as opposed to those that look like sheet metal. If the holes don't line up, that's what a drill is for, lol. Not really a fan of that type of power switch which I think I'd change out for an old style toggle. Also, while the miter gauge might be good, I think I'd store it away in favor of the Fuller one I currently have which I love! While it is 15 amp, I think I'd run new 20 amp wire and a 20 amp circuit breaker to my fuse box for it in order not to max out a 15 amp circuit. Living in a rural area I don't need to be concerned about noise so it wouldn't really matter what blade I use as I wear ear plugs when I'm using about any tool in my shop. Otherwise, it looks like a really nice saw.
best thing i put in my shop, was 2 dedicated 20amp circuits in addition to a plain old 15 amp. Havent had any issues. every tool running gets a dedicated connection on a heavy cord..... i think you nailed why people were having issues
Thank you so much for this video. Other channels often dismiss noise and that's rather annoying. A lot of us need something quieter for various reasons. I will definitely save up and buy this!
Ooh man! I am starting my wood shop tools buying but I used my in-laws wood shop many times before and there is nothing that I hate more on his wood shop tools than the super loud table saw. Your video review goes beyond the need for me buying my first decent table saw. Thanks man for this!!
You're correct about the power draw. I believe about 13 amps is the limit on a 15 amp 120v circuit, typically they'll trip at around 80% of the amp rating so nothing else should be hooked up to that circuit, especially a vacuum. The motor will draw more when it's under load with material being put through it. 20 amp dedicated circuit for the table saw and a 15 or 20 amp for a vacuum should do the trick.
If I had it to do all over again now 6 years later I would choose your model over my 5052. My Delta blade was crap. I never use the 52 inch rip and that extension board is a weak point anyway. Glad to see the 3 1/2" depth of cut on yours, pretty much the same saw as mine. I run mine a 20 amp only. My old video is still up on that model. Great video! Thanks
Great video, it really helped me both in making my purchase decision and in the assembly. I don't know who writes Delta's instruction manuals, but if they are listening, they can call me, I can absolutely do a much better job than they did. :) Also, IMHO you are spot-on in your theory about what is the likely cause of the reviews mentioning motor burnout and other issues. I have a considerable amount of professional experience with induction motors and they can be very sensitive to the kind of voltage drop taht you would see on an overloaded circuit or from using an extension cord that is either too long, too small gauge or both. I out in a dedicated 20A circuit just for the saw for that exact reason, I also made myself an extension cord using 12ga conductor cord taht is just exactly long enough for my shop.
I like your name. I was reading comments and stopped dead in my tracks. At first I thought I was losing my mind as I didn’t remember ever watching this video, let alone commenting. LOL.
Great review however, you really need to be careful making cross cuts with the fence. See time stamp 19:20 ish. Those small pieces can twist between the fence and blade and fly right back at you. Just saying. Enjoy your new saw 👍
Well thank you for such a good review of this saw! Many of my questions are answered and my worry about the motors is answered. I will be picking p the saw in the next month or so!... Thanks! 😁
Sounds to me like the Delta's blade is not square or there is some kind of 'wobble' when the blade is turning. There shouldn't be those occasional, but regularly repeating sounds of metal hitting metal when the blade is doing no work.
I'm betting the blade is poorly made and it's harmonic vibrations. Which is why you hear it occasionally, but the timing is consistent. The "metal hitting metal" is the blade plate ringing when the teeth are occasionally contacting the hard plastic insert.
I ran into the same things also. The small bracket on the front rail and those six bolts. I eventually got it figured it out and since I got finished. I watched your video and wish I had seen it before!!!
Just got mine Lowes had it on clearance for 50% off! Set up was very easy and I did not have to adjust the blade to get it parallel with the miter slot and the fence was easy to adjust.
Great setup and review video--thank you! I just bought it and haven't assembled it yet. My only concern is the riving knife. Everything I read says do not put a thin kerf blade with a full kerf riving knife. But clearly you did so with no apparent issues. Please let me know if if you have any concern and if you think I should buy a Diablo General Purpose or other thin kerf blade. Thank you!
I left my box intact, I just folded the flap down on the side I was rolling it onto. I figured keeping the box assembled would make it easier to discard the packing materials, and if it had malfunctioned, I’d be able to repackage it, and send it back.
I noticed you checked your blade for square to the table top, but not the front to back alignment of the blade to your miter slot. A "toe in" or "out" of the blade could be causing the intermittent "singing" of the blade against the insert.
Thanks so much for this great and honest review. I've been looking at this saw for a bit and I think you' helped me make up my mind! Really appreciate it.
Thanks for the great review and troubleshooting tips👍 This saw has been on my radar for about 6 months now and after seeing your video, I am definitely headed out to get one. My current saw is the Hitachi/Metabo C10RJ contractor saw. The fence and large cast iron table on the Delta is what drew me to it originally. To save money on the zero clearance insert, I would just make one from good hard wood stock. When doing your dba readings, it sounded like you still had some blade contact with the insert. It was rhythmic and very noticeable to me. As for the dust collection, would it be possible to enclose the lower section to add a dedicated 4" collection hose? Again thanks, thanks for the walkthrough and tips, happy woodworking!
The blade is already enclosed in a shroud for dust collection. Suppose you could adapt the output from 2.5 to 4" if you'd like. I've seen some 3rd party overarm dust collectors for the unit available. Would think that could make a big difference.
The most important part of a table saw like this is the fence system. Delta uses the t-square type with heavy duty front and rear rails. Well worth the money just for the fence system on this saw.
Oh I noticed it's two pieces, ouch. It's so unfortunate they are doing this so it fits in a smaller box. I bought the T3 fence (essentially the same fence but one piece) for my Ridgid and it made a night and day difference. Major negative points for Delta for splitting the fence rails to save a few bucks on packaging.
Great review! I was on the fence because of the motors dying out, but you brought to light something that I would've definitely overlooked and probably fell victim to! Thanks
So a 15A circuit, with only a Festool CT 36E running during saw use would not be sufficient to handle this? Even though the saw is pulling 13.5A, why wouldn’t the circuit pop if more power is being requested than can be supplied?
The noise difference between cutting and idle running might also be because the blade is not square to the slots. I didn't see you check that in the video. I'm not sure this model provides adjustment.
Great video. Been looking to get one, but every Lowe’s is out of stock, even in my neighboring three states! **Update**. My local Lowe’s got lucky and received two about two weeks ago. I immediately ran down there and picked one up. Unfortunately, my schedule has been beyond busy, so it’s still in the box. Hoping to get it put together soon. As a side note, I also have the same Ridgid jobsite saw. I’m guessing the Delta will be a huge improvement.
Wish this video was out when I assembled mine. Great video. Those instructions were terrible. I thought the Grey plastic pieces were leg extensions too.
Two comments. For low powered saws a thin kerf blade works better. Secondly, I didn't see you align the blade to the miter slot. I have an old 1999 version of the Delta Contractor saw and love it.
I want this saw so bad, but I wish the rails could telescope out like the Dewalt. I'm a little limited in space and if I could only slide them in and out when not in use I would have this saw already. Going crazy trying to think of solutions to make this fit in my workshop lol. Thanks for the video btw.
15:39 when you turn on the saw, I'm still hearing that grating sound, but only momentarily every second or so. Makes me wonder if the blade is out of balance and causing some kind of gyro wobble?
Just bought one to replace my Ryobi 8 1/4" table saw. It was too small to do anything and no fence upgrade options without a ton of rigging. Also tired of fooling with track guides and circular saws that need a lot of measuring to get square with the opposite edge. If it becomes a struggle you won't stick with woodworking.
Best review, quality picture, nicest audio, great slider shots and marvelous narration. Above all you list your equipment, simply the best. You must do the official videos for these companies. I bought same last week and also bought dado set from Amazon: Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor. Now I am looking for dado throat insert, but can't fine one. Do you have any recommendations? I thought I should also look for the more popular Rigid iteration of this saw R4560, still can't find one. Any suggestions?
It’s a little sketchy, but after I replaced the stock throat plate with the zero clearance one, I sacrificed the original by making it into a dado plate. Just put a stack on and then raised it through the plate, its aluminum so cuts easily
Right around 16:00 the delta while running sounded like the blade was still hitting the cover. Did that wear itself in? I’m in between this saw and the Ridged hybrid saw but leaning towards the Delta
FWIW.......the entire saw sells for $599 plus local sales tax. I wanted to purchase a replacement blade guard. This is not a misprint; quoted $314.00 plus shipping and sales tax for the guard. This was speaking with Delta's customer service / technical department in on Friday, January 15, 2021
How is the fence dead square when it clearly wobbles when you slide it can and forth? Once clamped does it straighten out and become square..... every time?
So you have had this for over a year... how is it holding up? Any problems with the table being level? Some have mentioned that the table is slightly uneven. Have you tried a dado? Any thoughts on replacing the steel table extension with cast iron? Router table extension?
Hey Aaron thanks again for another great video! Have you had any experience with running a dado stack with this saw yet? If not, maybe a good topic for a future video. Or maybe a router table extension? Cheers
I have. I ended up converting the stock throat plate into a dado plate. Just locked it in place with the fence and raised the full stack through it. Works really well. Can't say I've really given it a workout, but taking 1/2" x 3/8" out of some poplar didn't even slow it down.
I have the original and love it... I wonder if the base can still be installed "backwards" so that the lever to engage the wheels is on the left? That's how I installed mine and it is much easier engaging it from there. Very nice review. I wonder what they changed. Only thing I notice is the storage options are better implemented and it has a more open look since it doesn't have the side wall pieces.
Extremely thorough and excellent review. That bit about the power draw, cable, and dedicated line might prove invaluable. Any link to the machinest magnetic -t?
Thanks, and here's that link: amzn.to/3mlA4wY We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
You did not need to shorten the allen key. All you had to do was take the square tubing off and use the provided guide to set the position of the angle iron then reinstall the square tubing.
Outstanding piece of video. Been using my T2 for a year now and learned several things from your piece. One question I finally thought I had an answer for ALMOST came at 21:25...how do you store the rip fence below the miter gauge? You showed us where everything else is stored, why not the fence? Any guidance on how to fit that damn thing in the two "U" shaped trays? I've scoured the web and can find no place this is mentioned. For now, my fence just sits on top of my saw, while everything else is safely stored away. Thanks in advance for your response.
Aside from your crosscutting with the fence, which scared me, THANKS SO MUCH for the decibel as well as the amperage info. That's the kind of stuff reviews need. I have the same Ridgid and am looking to upgrade. One of the problems with reviews on HD and Lowes are that many of the problems are (to me anyway) due to user error like starving the motor for power. Unfortunately, I don't have the option of a dedicated 20A breaker so I'm still pondering what to do. An electrical upgrade in the new detached garage isn't an option.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1954 Delta Unisaw with the bullet 1 hp motor. Would you say the 725 would be a better unit. I see the 725 weighs 220, I think mine weighs 375. The cost of the 725 isn’t to bad. Just looking for suggestions. Thanks.
I bought this saw and assembled it at home. Your video was much appreciated as you hit on several things that were either not mentioned in the manual or so small I needed a magnifying glass to read it. Saw is flat and level. Just need to check the guide rail, tomorrow
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
Safety note...........I saw you cross cut with the rip fence and push stick......this is ready for a kick back as the piece tends to turn and bind against the blade. Remedy. ......use a miter gauge with out the fence unless you use a spacer clearance block attached to the fence for repeated length cuts . But the wood must clear the fence before touching the blade. I was a woodshop teacher for 35 years and have seen many kickback doing this so keep it safe and good information thank you
Good idea. Crosscutting with the fence in place has always felt a little sketchy. But I do it so infrequently that I've never taken the time to learn a better way. Thanks for the tip.
I was scared for him while watching it!
Definately use your crosscut sled or a miter gauge.
Have had kickback like that before and it is scary as hell.
Thomas is right. Please watch some table saw safety videos. You scared the hell out of me!
I was just about to say the same. SAFETY FIRST!
@@aaronstestlab Always cross cut using a miter gauge or sled.
Really good video! I have this saw and love it. Very well build and huge bang for the buck. I had one of the early 36-725T2's that had the motor failure. Two actually. The original one I bought and a second one to replace the first. I was on a dedicated 20 amp breaker and a heavy duty cord, so it was not related to that. After the second saw failure I reached out to Delta directly as I really liked the saw...other than the motors kept smoking. Since I was an "early adopter" Delta worked with me on a solution. Upon inspection, the blade brake had some sort of design flaw that caused it to shred leaving little pieces in the housing. This was accompanied by the smell of burning rubber. They also believed there might have been a capacitor issue. Delta handled the problem great and sold me as a customer due to the great service they gave me. Delta sent me another saw directly after having had their engineers inspect it to make sure all was good and paid to have mine shipped back to them for examination. Ever since that third saw they sent, everything has been fine. I believe whatever the problem was, they tracked it down and got it squared away for future saws.
Dude, one of the best reviews I've ever watched. Hit all the necessary questions clearly! Thank you.
my thoughts exactly! well done
I definitely agree
Picked this up today for $300 clearance at Lowe's today! Such a beast!
Plenty of work ahead!
Aaron - this is an awesome video. As other commenters have pointed out, you covered every important topic incuding power. Like most everyone my wood shop is in my garage and I don't have a dedicated 20 Amp circuit for my saw. What I've done short term is to plug the saw in to the garage door opener circuit as there's an outlet for the garage door motor in the rafters. I've got a Skilsaw SPT70 that's 15 amps and since I made this change it's worked well. Before I made the change the motor would stall out or shut off and just seemed not doing well. This isn't an ideal option because the overhead lights are on the same circuit, but it's way better than putting my saw on a 15 amp circuit with a shop vac. That's maybe what many people don't realize. A shop vac can draw 5 or more amps, maybe 10, so it's a very good idea to put your saw or other power tools on a separate circuit. Right now I'm going to cheapster route with an extension cord from the house to power the shop vac and heater. Again - great job reviewing this saw. I'm about to buy one.
Thanks for giving me the confidence to buy and the info needed for the buildout and tune up! I was skeptical regarding the motor complaints, I have mine on a 20 amp breaker, no sweat with the right amperage. You seriously should get a commission from Delta. I LOVE this saw, already have gotten a lot of use out of it in the last two months.
Outstanding presentation! Extremely useful information. I don't think it is a long winded video at all, YT algo's notwithstanding, I truly appreciate all the detail you have provided! Trust me, I have seen just about every video about the original variant of this saw. This one is at the top of the useful scale for the new model.
Mostly, I want to thank you profusely for addressing and including the detailed decibel and noise information. Like you, I can't tolerate being an annoyance to the neighbors and as I am setting up my shop in the garage, noise levels are always at the top of the priority list.
Also, I appreciate you addressing the negative reviews about defunct motors and power supply. May have been caught by this nuance. Also, the issue has apparently been addressed by Delta as a bad batch of capacitors and a recall was issued, if they are to be believed. Time will tell, probably various combinations of the two.
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Man I gotta tell ya - I wish like hell that you had done this a few months earlier! It would have let me know I wasn't crazy or stupid. As someone who owns this saw and is a happy customer after a few months of day-to-day use, I can say - if you are thinking of buying or have just bought this saw, this video (and this comment) is for you! I thought I would lose my mind before I got mine completely assembled and dialed in just right. Like so many who buy this saw, I was stepping up from a jobsite saw, and I had zero experience with this kind of assembly. There was conflicting reports on all kinds of things about this saw from the height of the tabletop to the voltage, so I wasn't exactly going into the whole thing with confidence anyway. (btw - i totally agree with your conspiracy theory - mine hasn't blinked!) While a clear head, some common sense, a lot of patience, and a willingness to tinker will definitely get it done, I think that for me, and I'm sure so many others, these faculties were still occupied trying to keep me from freaking out over the cash I'd just forked over, and I found myself using lots of four letter words and just wanting the damn thing to work. The best advice I can give is go to sleep and look it over tomorrow with fresh eyes. What I couldn't make sense of the night I bought the saw came quickly and clearly the next morning. I wish Delta would have set their buyers up for success with their awesome machine by including some awesome instructions, but they didn't. (If you've just purchased it - hang in there man! It's almost over!) If I could change only one thing about this saw, it would be for them to use something cheaper than those mysteriously substantial pieces of plastic shipping material and re-assign those funds to a rewrite of the instructions. I've seen it said several times that Delta's customer service was a joke, and I couldn't disagree more - what I got when I reached out to Delta wasn't anything that resembled customer service, and there was nothing funny about it. I very much feel that for $600, what did I expect? Apparently, Delta agrees. With a little distance between me and the painful assembly process, I can say that it forced me to get better acquainted with the machine as a whole. With my absence of experience doing anything of this kind, it ended up being one of those fabled blessings in disguise. That said, I love this saw, and unless something better pops up at the same price, I would definitely buy it again. Thanks for your awesome review of the Delta 36-725T2, and as someone who has owned and used this saw for months, I agree with just about every word you said.
I did the same thing for assembly of my 36-725. I started late afternoon, slept, and finished the following day. I stayed patient and actually enjoyed the assembly process as I was able to get it dialed in near perfectly. Lots of loosening, adjusting, and tightening to get it where I wanted it, mostly on those stamped steel table inserts. I really like the micro adjust screws on the fence. It's a precision machine now. I could run a 10 foot board through it and it would register the exact same thickness from beginning to end on my dial caliper.
this is the table saw I am getting from Santa. I'll also be asking for a Diablo blade. I use Diablo blades on my jig saw and I love them. Thank you. PS I am going to have my hubby watch as he will be assisting me in putting this together.
All the Diablo blades I’ve found are too narrow for the rising knife according to the manual (pg17). I’m not a particular safe guy, but a full functional riding knife is kinda a big deal. I think the biggest reason why after market blades a quieter, is they tend to be much thinner and cut a wider path
Years ago I had a Delta Unisaw which is an amazing saw. Very quiet and zero kickbacks. One person could easily run a full sheet of plywood through with the side and rear extension tables.
Thanks for the great and direct overview and review! This became my Christmas present from and for wife & I to use rehabilitating a 120yo farmhouse! Next, to add the router table to the open end...
That's exactly what I thought, and will be doing to mine... Right after I buy it.
I have had this saw for a couple of years and it’s pretty great. Definitely the most bang for the buck. I installed a router table in the extension wing.
Nice job with the review. I also find the fence system to be excellent, even as a standalone option for an old saw. I bought the 36-T30 T4 fence for my vintage 1969 Craftsman 113... and paid nearly $50 in shipping! It has the single piece mount rails (square guide rail is 62" alone) and well worth the extra cost to me. With my four extra cast table extensions (including a router table extension), I've got 36" right and 20" left rip capacity. I also agree 100% on your findings/toughts on the electric requirements and reported issues. I too, run my saw on a dedicated 20A circuit.
BTW... When setting the fence, I make sure it is dead parallel to the blade and the miter slot first (all three parallel to each other), then adjust the backside of the fence away from the far end of the miter slot a few thousands (~0.002") just to make sure the back end of the blade never pinches the work.
Extremely well done Aaron ... this was a thoughtful, informative and well organized video. Your review just happened to address every topic I had concerning this saw. I couldn't agree with you more about the woes of starving an induction motor of power ... it is a recipe for disaster if not addressed before turning this saw on for the first time. The cost of adding a dedicated 20 amp circuit for this saw would be an investment well spent. Not only will you save your saw, but how do you associate a dollar amount to the frustration of your new saw going up in smoke - warranty or not?
Thanks for your time and effort to share your experience with us ... Cheers, dave
Good review Aaron. I absolutely agree that this is the best value for under $1000.
I have had this saw since April 2020 and have been completely satisfied. Between the Delta instructions and the Delta sponsored unboxing and assembly video, it was an easy assembly and setup.
One thing I didn't see you check/adjust is the alignment of the blade being parallel to the miter slot. This is really critical. Mine was off a hair, but again, there are videos out there that detail the adjustment. You should also check the alignment of the riving knife to the blade. If it isn't aligned it can cause binding issues. Although the Delta instructions and the stamping on the riving knife specifically says not to used thin kerf blades, I am using the same Diablo D1050X and have no issues, but I spent time making sure that the riving knife was perfectly aligned. I have not found a Delta thin kerf riving knife. I am not a professional, I don't play one on TV and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night, so use a thin kerf blade with this riving knife at your own risk.
For others of you out there, don't waste your money on the Delta Zero Clearance insert. Look up CalyssaWoodworks on etsy. This guy uses a CNC to custom fabricate them from MDF just for the 36-725 and T2 models. They are currently $26 for 1, $35 for 2, or $45 for 3 and ship free in the US. I purchased 3. One for my D1050X combination blade, one for my dado stack, and one for when I ruin the first one setting the bevel to 45 degrees without removing the insert (I know, right? oops.....). The other thing about these being MDF is that they don't ring like that steel and plastic one when the blade brushes it.
Many people seem to obsess about the fact that the fence mounts and tubular rail are 2 piece. If that really bothers you then pop for another $600 and get the 36-5000T2, but that is about all you are getting for that DOUBLE THE PRICE. My experience is that it has not been an issue for me.
One other thing. Look up a video and properly protect the cast iron top. Clean that packing oil off mineral spirits or something and then put a good coat or two of Johnsons Paste Wax on the cast iron top. It will protect it from rust and make your wood and jigs slide soooo smoothly.
Enjoy!
The sound the delta is making during the decibel test is absolutely terrifying
Nice review. Thanks for the information. I'm i the market for a new table saw. I haven't had any problems with my Dewalt Jobsite table saw other than it being too small for my needs. I'm always learning new things and have picked up some priceless tips from the woodworking sites including yours and others. I'll return the favor and shoot you some advice on something I noticed. You may already be aware, but I figured I'd say something. If you want to calibrate your blade to 90, use a longer square that extends far enough past the throat plate so that you are squaring to the tabletop, not the throat plate for the obvious reason being the throat plate is not secured in place and Is usually never quite flush to the tabletop.
I'm strongly considering this saw. The blown motors was caused by a capacitor issue at the factory. Delta fixed the issue.
On that extension wing with the 6 extra screws, you're lucky you had those in the right rotation. They can be rotated 180 and fit the front and rear rails just fine, but the holes to affix to the table itself are offset by around 1/2 on one side vs the other, which is for an optional extension table.
Yes, I discovered that the hard way.
I had a problem with my first delta product ,😢 it was a delta scroll saw that’s Motor from go seemed very sluggish, after a day or so the emergency pull out key just stopped working , understanding things happen ,enough was enough and I attempt to contact the store where I purchased it only to be told that I would have to contact you guessed it the company delta. After several attempts and several weeks of trying I get a response and was told of a parts manual they could send me and that it contains replacement parts I could purchase to repair it , also while attempting to contact them my warranty had expired luckily I mailed In the ext warranty sadly to be informed they did not receive it and basically I didn’t exist in their records. My saw will remain unfixed in my shop as a reminder of how a company does not care and it shows in their machines.
Ps the parts manual was not free and the saw was only used twice✌️2 times ..
So thanks for taking my money delta and god bless you , You really need it.
One of the best evaluations I have seen for any product. You hit a lot of important points like noise levels, current draw, assembly guidance. I decided to go ahead and get one, haven’t used it yet but I am confident it was a good decision thank you!
Dope! Hope you like it.
I upgraded to the Delta 725 from a Ryobi. I put them side-by-side and I was blown away. Thank you for the recommendation.
I'm looking at this saw right now! Maybe that's why your video came up in my suggestion. I'm glad they have been working on the motor issues. It now sounds like they have a remedy for the motor burn out issues. I hope I can get the updated version soon.
Great video and review!
I still haven’t had any problems with mine
I own this saw. Another important step you overlooked was aligning the saw blade to the miter slot. This MUST be done with a dial indicator using the single "magic tooth" method. This adjustment makes the blade run true to the table front to back. It is after this that you do the fence alignment. I learned a long time ago to never trust the factory adjustment of blade to table/ miter slot. It took a while to get the saw setup but I have never regretted purchasing this saw. Best bang for the buck as far as I'm concerned. Have fun with the new saw, bro.
What’s the magic tooth method?
@@longfinger Essentially, you always measure with the same tooth. Measure at the front the of the blade with that tooth, then rotate the blade to the rear and measure with the same tooth.
I need to upgrade my one and only 28 year old Ryobi BT3000 table saw.
This Delta table saw sure looks like a good candidate. Thank you for your excellent review! 👍
Glad you found it useful. I've had it for a couple years now, it's been flawless.
thank you so much for posting this video! gives me a good idea of what iam getting into when getting a more serious table saw
I had gone to Lowe's and looked at the contractor DeWalt and the Delta side by side. The Delta's motor isn't as powerful, but it's so much more saw, for the same price. Agreed on the Delta blade, as it struggles to get through hickory and black walnut, but I'd digging this saw!
Purchased this Delta saw at Lowe’s, couldn’t be happier. My only concern is the dust collection. I have a very healthy shop vac attached for dust removal, I think most of the dust is removed but there is always saw dust in the nooks and crannies around the table top. Other than the dust issue, your right this is a heck of a table saw for the money. Heck of a saw. 4.5 ⭐️
From Missouri
Ddelta now provides an updated quick assembly guide that's not bad, not great but seems to be improvement as I didnt have issues. if you pay attention to the descriptions of the (very similar looking and described) screws nuts and bolts. The quick guide stops after extension assemblies just leaving you with fence, guard... and fine tuning, which is why I'm here! thanks for the video
THANK YOU for addressing all the negative comments on Lowes. Seeing all those 1 star reviews has really caused me to hit the pause button on purchasing this saw. But your conspiracy theory makes sense. And since I have a 20 amp run from my box in my garage (where I'll be using it), you've given me more confidence in this saw. Great video!
Well, like I said in the video, it's just a guess. But I mean, even the cheapest, garbage, off-the-shelf induction motor should run longer than some people have experienced on Lowes.com...unless they're starved for voltage. And, considering 13.5 amps is at the upper end of what a 15 amp circuit can provide, even a dedicated one, I thought the idea of that being the cause of burn-outs is at least plausible.
As I have an older Rockwell (Delta) contractor saw that I've upgraded over the years, I think if I got this one that I'd transfer some of the parts from that saw to this one, like the solid extension tables as opposed to those that look like sheet metal. If the holes don't line up, that's what a drill is for, lol. Not really a fan of that type of power switch which I think I'd change out for an old style toggle. Also, while the miter gauge might be good, I think I'd store it away in favor of the Fuller one I currently have which I love! While it is 15 amp, I think I'd run new 20 amp wire and a 20 amp circuit breaker to my fuse box for it in order not to max out a 15 amp circuit. Living in a rural area I don't need to be concerned about noise so it wouldn't really matter what blade I use as I wear ear plugs when I'm using about any tool in my shop. Otherwise, it looks like a really nice saw.
best thing i put in my shop, was 2 dedicated 20amp circuits in addition to a plain old 15 amp. Havent had any issues. every tool running gets a dedicated connection on a heavy cord..... i think you nailed why people were having issues
That's the way to do it
Thank you so much for this video. Other channels often dismiss noise and that's rather annoying. A lot of us need something quieter for various reasons. I will definitely save up and buy this!
Thanks for the excellent review! I was looking to replace my old Delta cabinet saw with another, but will now give this model serious consideration. 👍
Thank you so much for this review. Very in depth. Best I've seen so far!
Ooh man! I am starting my wood shop tools buying but I used my in-laws wood shop many times before and there is nothing that I hate more on his wood shop tools than the super loud table saw.
Your video review goes beyond the need for me buying my first decent table saw. Thanks man for this!!
Yeah man. Some of those direct-drive saws are screamers. Pretty much anything belt-driven should be much quieter.
Combo blade purchased, thank you for the clear and concise video and recommendation!
You're correct about the power draw. I believe about 13 amps is the limit on a 15 amp 120v circuit, typically they'll trip at around 80% of the amp rating so nothing else should be hooked up to that circuit, especially a vacuum. The motor will draw more when it's under load with material being put through it. 20 amp dedicated circuit for the table saw and a 15 or 20 amp for a vacuum should do the trick.
I was wondering why i kept tripping the circuit with the saw and vacuum
If I had it to do all over again now 6 years later I would choose your model over my 5052. My Delta blade was crap. I never use the 52 inch rip and that extension board is a weak point anyway. Glad to see the 3 1/2" depth of cut on yours, pretty much the same saw as mine. I run mine a 20 amp only. My old video is still up on that model. Great video!
Thanks
Great video, it really helped me both in making my purchase decision and in the assembly. I don't know who writes Delta's instruction manuals, but if they are listening, they can call me, I can absolutely do a much better job than they did. :) Also, IMHO you are spot-on in your theory about what is the likely cause of the reviews mentioning motor burnout and other issues. I have a considerable amount of professional experience with induction motors and they can be very sensitive to the kind of voltage drop taht you would see on an overloaded circuit or from using an extension cord that is either too long, too small gauge or both. I out in a dedicated 20A circuit just for the saw for that exact reason, I also made myself an extension cord using 12ga conductor cord taht is just exactly long enough for my shop.
I like your name. I was reading comments and stopped dead in my tracks. At first I thought I was losing my mind as I didn’t remember ever watching this video, let alone commenting. LOL.
I upgraded the capacitor in mine and have never had a problem cutting anything and plenty of cutting power.
I've just kept my on my 20A dedicated circuit and still haven't had any problems.
Great review however, you really need to be careful making cross cuts with the fence. See time stamp 19:20 ish. Those small pieces can twist between the fence and blade and fly right back at you. Just saying. Enjoy your new saw 👍
I've been looking at many and waffling back and forth over and over. I'm gonna get it!! I had a good saw and miss it!!
That is insane how loud the factory blade is!!!! Thanks for the video!
I was very surprised by the difference in volume between the trash factory blade and the Diablo.
Well thank you for such a good review of this saw! Many of my questions are answered and my worry about the motors is answered. I will be picking p the saw in the next month or so!...
Thanks! 😁
Sounds to me like the Delta's blade is not square or there is some kind of 'wobble' when the blade is turning. There shouldn't be those occasional, but regularly repeating sounds of metal hitting metal when the blade is doing no work.
I'm betting the blade is poorly made and it's harmonic vibrations. Which is why you hear it occasionally, but the timing is consistent. The "metal hitting metal" is the blade plate ringing when the teeth are occasionally contacting the hard plastic insert.
Great/thorough review. Thanks!
thank you for taking the time to put out good content, just bought mine .Will be a breeze to put together now lol
I ran into the same things also. The small bracket on the front rail and those six bolts. I eventually got it figured it out and since I got finished. I watched your video and wish I had seen it before!!!
Just got mine Lowes had it on clearance for 50% off!
Set up was very easy and I did not have to adjust the blade to get it parallel with the miter slot and the fence was easy to adjust.
Great setup and review video--thank you! I just bought it and haven't assembled it yet. My only concern is the riving knife. Everything I read says do not put a thin kerf blade with a full kerf riving knife. But clearly you did so with no apparent issues. Please let me know if if you have any concern and if you think I should buy a Diablo General Purpose or other thin kerf blade. Thank you!
I left my box intact, I just folded the flap down on the side I was rolling it onto. I figured keeping the box assembled would make it easier to discard the packing materials, and if it had malfunctioned, I’d be able to repackage it, and send it back.
Nice walk through. I think you were hearing blade runout
I noticed you checked your blade for square to the table top, but not the front to back alignment of the blade to your miter slot. A "toe in" or "out" of the blade could be causing the intermittent "singing" of the blade against the insert.
Excellent review! I’m about to assemble mine now
Thanks so much for this great and honest review. I've been looking at this saw for a bit and I think you' helped me make up my mind! Really appreciate it.
Good video thank , i have learnt issue of motor burning out .
Thanks for the great review and troubleshooting tips👍 This saw has been on my radar for about 6 months now and after seeing your video, I am definitely headed out to get one. My current saw is the Hitachi/Metabo C10RJ contractor saw. The fence and large cast iron table on the Delta is what drew me to it originally. To save money on the zero clearance insert, I would just make one from good hard wood stock. When doing your dba readings, it sounded like you still had some blade contact with the insert. It was rhythmic and very noticeable to me.
As for the dust collection, would it be possible to enclose the lower section to add a dedicated 4" collection hose?
Again thanks, thanks for the walkthrough and tips, happy woodworking!
The blade is already enclosed in a shroud for dust collection. Suppose you could adapt the output from 2.5 to 4" if you'd like. I've seen some 3rd party overarm dust collectors for the unit available. Would think that could make a big difference.
Excellent review. I've been looking for overall dimensions of the saw when completely assembled so I can determine how it will work in my shop.
The most important part of a table saw like this is the fence system. Delta uses the t-square type with heavy duty front and rear rails. Well worth the money just for the fence system on this saw.
Oh I noticed it's two pieces, ouch. It's so unfortunate they are doing this so it fits in a smaller box. I bought the T3 fence (essentially the same fence but one piece) for my Ridgid and it made a night and day difference. Major negative points for Delta for splitting the fence rails to save a few bucks on packaging.
Just bought mine! Great video. It's late now so I haven't ran it but I'm looking forward to it tomorrow!
Great review! I was on the fence because of the motors dying out, but you brought to light something that I would've definitely overlooked and probably fell victim to! Thanks
So a 15A circuit, with only a Festool CT 36E running during saw use would not be sufficient to handle this? Even though the saw is pulling 13.5A, why wouldn’t the circuit pop if more power is being requested than can be supplied?
That's way too much for a 15A circuit
The noise difference between cutting and idle running might also be because the blade is not square to the slots. I didn't see you check that in the video. I'm not sure this model provides adjustment.
thanks so much for this video!! very helpful and thought out.
Great video. Been looking to get one, but every Lowe’s is out of stock, even in my neighboring three states!
**Update**. My local Lowe’s got lucky and received two about two weeks ago. I immediately ran down there and picked one up. Unfortunately, my schedule has been beyond busy, so it’s still in the box. Hoping to get it put together soon. As a side note, I also have the same Ridgid jobsite saw. I’m guessing the Delta will be a huge improvement.
Wish this video was out when I assembled mine. Great video. Those instructions were terrible. I thought the Grey plastic pieces were leg extensions too.
Two comments. For low powered saws a thin kerf blade works better. Secondly, I didn't see you align the blade to the miter slot. I have an old 1999 version of the Delta Contractor saw and love it.
Excellent review sir. Wish it was available in Canada!
I want this saw so bad, but I wish the rails could telescope out like the Dewalt. I'm a little limited in space and if I could only slide them in and out when not in use I would have this saw already. Going crazy trying to think of solutions to make this fit in my workshop lol. Thanks for the video btw.
Thanks for the review.
15:39 when you turn on the saw, I'm still hearing that grating sound, but only momentarily every second or so. Makes me wonder if the blade is out of balance and causing some kind of gyro wobble?
My instruction leaflet showed those six “mystery” flathead screws being used to attach the table leafs to the cast iron table.
could I find the assembled length and width please?
This video was great and helped me putting mine together. And yes the instructions are not the best lol
Excellent review!
Great review. Thank you!
Just bought one to replace my Ryobi 8 1/4" table saw. It was too small to do anything and no fence upgrade options without a ton of rigging. Also tired of fooling with track guides and circular saws that need a lot of measuring to get square with the opposite edge. If it becomes a struggle you won't stick with woodworking.
Thanks for the video!
Best review, quality picture, nicest audio, great slider shots and marvelous narration. Above all you list your equipment, simply the best.
You must do the official videos for these companies.
I bought same last week and also bought dado set from Amazon: Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor.
Now I am looking for dado throat insert, but can't fine one. Do you have any recommendations?
I thought I should also look for the more popular Rigid iteration of this saw R4560, still can't find one.
Any suggestions?
It’s a little sketchy, but after I replaced the stock throat plate with the zero clearance one, I sacrificed the original by making it into a dado plate. Just put a stack on and then raised it through the plate, its aluminum so cuts easily
Right around 16:00 the delta while running sounded like the blade was still hitting the cover. Did that wear itself in? I’m in between this saw and the Ridged hybrid saw but leaning towards the Delta
It did break in a bit. Tough call between this and the rigid. Likely better warranty and support from Rigid. But I think this has a much nicer fence.
You never adjust the fence to the mitter first. You adjust the saw blade to the mitter and then you can proceed
FWIW.......the entire saw sells for $599 plus local sales tax. I wanted to purchase a replacement blade guard. This is not a misprint; quoted $314.00 plus shipping and sales tax for the guard. This was speaking with Delta's customer service / technical department in on Friday, January 15, 2021
Thanks for the review
How is the fence dead square when it clearly wobbles when you slide it can and forth? Once clamped does it straighten out and become square..... every time?
Yes, that's how every t-style fence works
So you have had this for over a year... how is it holding up? Any problems with the table being level? Some have mentioned that the table is slightly uneven. Have you tried a dado? Any thoughts on replacing the steel table extension with cast iron? Router table extension?
Hey Aaron thanks again for another great video! Have you had any experience with running a dado stack with this saw yet? If not, maybe a good topic for a future video. Or maybe a router table extension? Cheers
I have. I ended up converting the stock throat plate into a dado plate. Just locked it in place with the fence and raised the full stack through it. Works really well. Can't say I've really given it a workout, but taking 1/2" x 3/8" out of some poplar didn't even slow it down.
One other question - I think you used a magnetic square in the video. If you could post a link for that I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
No mention of using a dado blade but it looked like the arbor was long enough from what we could see in the video!
Can get an 11/16th stack on it
This table is on sale right now at Lowe’s 50 percent off
Great video. I have the Ridgid R4516 saw now. I might have to sell it, save my pennies and buy the Delta with a Diablo blade.
I have the original and love it... I wonder if the base can still be installed "backwards" so that the lever to engage the wheels is on the left? That's how I installed mine and it is much easier engaging it from there.
Very nice review. I wonder what they changed. Only thing I notice is the storage options are better implemented and it has a more open look since it doesn't have the side wall pieces.
The base tubes are symmetrical so I don't see why not
Extremely thorough and excellent review. That bit about the power draw, cable, and dedicated line might prove invaluable. Any link to the machinest magnetic -t?
Thanks, and here's that link: amzn.to/3mlA4wY
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You did not need to shorten the allen key. All you had to do was take the square tubing off and use the provided guide to set the position of the angle iron then reinstall the square tubing.
That sounds like way more work than shortening an allen key
Outstanding piece of video. Been using my T2 for a year now and learned several things from your piece. One question I finally thought I had an answer for ALMOST came at 21:25...how do you store the rip fence below the miter gauge? You showed us where everything else is stored, why not the fence? Any guidance on how to fit that damn thing in the two "U" shaped trays? I've scoured the web and can find no place this is mentioned. For now, my fence just sits on top of my saw, while everything else is safely stored away. Thanks in advance for your response.
As far as I know there isn't a place to store the fence.
What is that box end wrench thing next to the angle adjustment knob and where you store the kickback guard on the side?
Aside from your crosscutting with the fence, which scared me, THANKS SO MUCH for the decibel as well as the amperage info. That's the kind of stuff reviews need.
I have the same Ridgid and am looking to upgrade. One of the problems with reviews on HD and Lowes are that many of the problems are (to me anyway) due to user error like starving the motor for power. Unfortunately, I don't have the option of a dedicated 20A breaker so I'm still pondering what to do. An electrical upgrade in the new detached garage isn't an option.
How about the free hand crosscutting?
Thanks for the video. I have a 1954 Delta Unisaw with the bullet 1 hp motor. Would you say the 725 would be a better unit. I see the 725 weighs 220, I think mine weighs 375. The cost of the 725 isn’t to bad. Just looking for suggestions. Thanks.
Great review! Do you still like the saw? Any problems with it since the video was posted?
Still love it. Use it a couple times a week. No problems.
I bought this saw and assembled it at home. Your video was much appreciated as you hit on several things that were either not mentioned in the manual or so small I needed a magnifying glass to read it. Saw is flat and level. Just need to check the guide rail, tomorrow