Appearance makes me want to save money. Performance convinces me to save money someplace else. Thanks for demonstrating the inaccuracies built into this saw. I just hate tools that make life harder instead of helping!
With all due respect, this is a $600 table saw, you say this yourself. It is not reasonable to have $2000 expectations. I am truly sorry that the cast iron table on yours is not flat, I have seen a few other comments/posts on the internet where people have the same issue. I will say, that I did extensive research before purchasing the newer 36-725T2 version of this saw and the only other real competition is the Rigid at Home Depot that is $750. The reviews/comments/experiences on that saw were not as good, the fence is not as solid and there were many complaints of the table not being flat. To those out there considering this saw, please don't let this review scare you off, my opinion is that there is not a better saw on the market for under $1000. DO listen to what Termite is saying about potential limitations of this saw and think ahead, and by all means, check your table for level right away. Note...it will not be realistic to do this in the store, you have to unbox before and the main saw component is upside down in the box. Addressing a few of Termite's concerns: 1. Arbor length and Dado stack. I have no issues, the instructions for my 8" dado stack say specifically that if you cannot get 2 threads past the nut with the stabilizer washer, then don't use the stabilizer washer. The main dado stack blades are not thin kerf and are heavy duty. This is not an issue. 2. Zero Clearance insert. These are available out there, look up CalyssaWoodworks on Etsy. $30 for one (discounts on 2 or 3) made of 1/2" MDF and specifically made for the 36-725 and 36-725T2. Fits perfectly. 3. Dust Collection. Mine works very well. Yes, depending on what you are doing there is some that it doesn't collect, especially when you use a zero clearance insert (very little pull through on the air flow) or cutting rabbets or dados. But, if you want to get perfect dust collection you need a full blown cabinet saw AND over the blade collection too. 4. Rear Fence Clamp. This is a valid concern, but this is only helping to keep the fence in place, it is not part of the clamping mechanism. In fact, I saw at least one TH-cam video where someone removed the black clip so that they could directly attach their outfeed table. Just leave that rear white nylon glide in place. 5. Not level top - true bummer, check your saw as soon as you can and if it is not acceptable take it back and get another. Is that a pain in the butt, yep, but we are the ones that want the best saw we can get for $600 and this is it. If you spend $2000 to $3500 on a SawStop or Powermatic 3-5HP Cabinet saw, you won't have this problem and if you do, you should be upset. I have had this saw for about 6 weeks, so I'm a relative noob compared to Termite here, so thanks for the review man. To others, listen to what he says , think about what your short/medium/long term needs are, and go into it eyes wide open. I do not think you will not find a better saw for under $1000.
Dude! I had no idea someone on Etsy sells zero clearance inserts! That's so awesome. Glad you posted that! Also... I later discovered that the dado issue isn't really an issue at all. I just used a 3/4 dado stack this week and just left off three stabilizer washer. It worked fine. You know what really bugs me about the whole warped table thing? It's the only thing that deep down bothers me about this saw. If the table were nice and flat, I'd be perfectly happy with with saw. Yeah... it's a $600 saw. But really... if they would have beefed up the top with a thicker cast iron, I would GLADLY have paid $700 or even $800. It would totally be worth paying an extra $200 for a flat table. The saw would still be in an affordable price range and it would have its worst flaw eliminated. Sometimes the manufacturers don't think.
I was about to purchase this saw. Thanks for the review Termite. David thanks also for the input. The saw I’m looking at now is the Laguna fusion 1 or 2. Any of you have an opinion on it? Thanks again!!
@@termitewoodwerx5896 You know, what's weird about that table top is that it's a milled surface, and you actually have to do extra work to try to mill a surface to a curve like that. So I would guess that sometime after milling (to presumably flat) the table twisted/deformed from a too-hot milling process. A milling shop can re-surface it for you, but I've no idea of the cost. Shouldn't be too much, as it's soft material and a .001" tolerance is child's play for any modern machine.
That T2 version looks like it'll be another winner for Delta. I'm perfectly happy with the original version but if it died I'd probably give that one a try. I believe mine can be wired 220. Delta makes a dado and zero clearance insert for it, that I have.
@@madsteam77 The F2 is an amazing saw. This Delta is nowhere near the F2. That being said, the F2 does have what I consider to be a huge downside... The trunnion is made from aluminum. Not sure what Laguna was thinking, especially at that price point. Checkout Grizzly.
TIP/WARNING (Zero Clearance & Angled Cuts): when doing angled cuts 45’s, etc. MAKE NOT to use your zero clearance insert! SWAP out to use the stock insert (wider opening) BEFORE you start changing the angle. Otherwise you will bend and or knock your riving knife out out of wack! And it’s very difficult and time consuming to readjust and calibrate (assuming it’s not damaged) on these delta saws. Even though I already knew this, I’ve accidentally done it twice. You get going and sometimes forget. So, I used a label maker with red tape as a reminder: “Angled Cuts Warning - swap throat plate out”. I put one on the front of my saw (below where you see the current angle), and on the front right corner near the other wheel/dial which changes the angle.
For others reading these comment, I have owned this saw for 3-4 years and I built a quite successful WW business for which it is well responsible. Everything he says in this video is 100% true, but it doesn't have to stop you from finding success with it. I am also upgrading my saw, like he is, and cannot wait, but this one has served me well. The newer, more expensive one I"m getting will hopefully serve me well too and be a little more accurate, a little more powerful, etc. But when you're just starting out, this Delta will take you far! As an aside, when starting out, you really shouldn't be buying the most expensive tools, I started out with Harbor Freight trash tools, squares, etc. As I learned to Wood work, started making money with the low end equipment, I took my profits and started buying better, nicer tools. Now I run Festool, Wood Peckers, Powermatic, etc. Don't let cheap tools stop you from learning/improving!
I have the Ridgid version of this saw that I just got. After 2 days of setting it up and trying to get everything as straight as possible (given that lots of parts weren't straight to begin with) and complaining a lot, turns out it cuts accurately and squarely. My table isn't flat either, and I actually reached out to Ridgid as I initially wasn't happy about that.....and given this was my second saw, I wasn't in the mood to box this one up and bring it back and try a third time (first one was damaged in shipping). I threw a straight edge on the table and had the "WTF" moment when I saw light leaking through.....but, it looked worse than it is, and is only around a half millimeter gap at the most when I put some feeler gauges on it. I can still square up the blade (on both sides) and once I got the fence dialed in, cuts straight. Just made some plywood shelves for my laundry room, and all the angles/edges are 90 degrees. I cut almost everything on the table saw, except for some 45 degree miters on my miter saw......I was impressed with it. Not impressed with the quality control/manufacturing though.....but, for me personally, mine should get the job done in most cases. I'm also surprised at how accurate the measuring tape on the fence rail is.....I find myself constantly checking the gap between the fence and the blade, and it's dead on (not sure why I keep measuring, other than force of habit from crappy jobsite table saws). Now, if I had an actual shop and not my garage, then I'd spend the money for a really nice cabinet saw - but since I just bought this house last year and really don't feel like moving, I don't foresee that happening anytime soon.
Have had mine for 5 years. I am amateur, don’t see any need for anything more from a saw. I have customized it with drawer for storage. I do agree with the dust collection system inside the cabinet sucking big time, only negative for me
I have the same saw and I have a perfectly flat table. I wonder if yours warped after machining? Anyway nice review, completely agree about the dust collection!
Thank you for the extensive review! I find myself always looking for the perfect saw. I don't think that is possible in the price point I'm searching. I do believe that there are enough positives out there for this saw to be an entry level saw for the entry level/weekend woodworker. There are more positives than negatives. Has anyone come up with an option to add an outfeed table or a router table side wing for this saw yet?? Thanks again for your time!
Thanks for a great review. I bought a 36-5000 (same as 36-725 but with 15 amp motor) 2 years ago and could have used the surface flatness info. I've had no problems, but the surface is the same as you showed. You are the first review that I've seen that really takes a in depth look at this saw.
You're absolutely right. But... you gotta start somewhere. I'm growing in my skills, so it's time to upgrade the tools. Most people don't go out on day one of a hobby and fill the garage with the best of the best tools.
Of course, nobody would invest in a tool that does not match their skills. Life does not work that way: you are not born a fine furniture maker. He’s just saying, several times if you paid attention, his skills have now outgrown the tool and he wants to upgrade.
Nice review. I bought the Delta 36-T30 T4 fence separately for my older Craftsman 113. A great fence system. Something else to consider... The other 80% formula for power is, you typically do not want to load a circuit more than 80% of its rated amperage. A standard house circuit is 15A (1800W @ 120V), so that means no more than 12A should be drawn (1440W @ 120V). Many saws routinely go over that and you can either pop your breaker and/or even cause issues with your motor (burn out capacitors). This is especially important on a circuit shared by other devices. I run my saw on a dedicated 20A circuit, so it has plenty of headroom to run efficiently and not overload the wiring (80% is 16A, 1920W @ 120V). I'll be upgrading my Craftsman motor to a 220V model when I can get my hands on a decently priced one, along with a new circuit to support it. The 120V motor does okay for now, but is a little sluggish... as you pointed out.
It's because the motor hangs off the cast iron top like most hybrid saws, cabinet saws usually have it attached to the frame so there's no weight pulling on the top... If they produce the top and store it for a year the cast iron would be more stable and handle the weight but I wouldn't see that with any Home Depot or Lowe's.
I have the same saw and did change the blade too. I didn’t have 220 at the time so this is a great saw. I’ve cut 300 bf of 8/4 maple. You have to go slow and sometimes it bogged down but I worked. This is a great saw to start woodworking. Nice review.
I guess it's luck if the draw. Since you've had yours for 5 years with the table flat, that rules out the theory that the motor's weight causes it to sag. Mine must have been out of flat from the beginning.
Fair criticism but it's still a lot of saw for the price. The throat plate is awful but amazon sells a zero clearance plate that fits perfectly. Not marketed for this saw but it is the same plate. A crosscut sled takes care of the low spot beside the blade. As far as the "short" arbor, you can skip the washer and just use the nut occasionally. I didn't hear this guy mention the riving knife adjustment, which is a giant PITA. The book doesn't explain it accurately but with a little patience, it can be dialed in perfectly. If all these things were improved at the factory this thing would end up costing 3000 bucks, which defeats the purpose of having an intermediate saw.
Well done review. I winced as you grabbed the blade with your hand and later leaned over it. I have a very high fear of table saws and am deliberate in all my movement when using them.
TIP/WARNING: when doing angled cuts 45’s, etc. MAKE SURE NOT use your zero clearance insert! SWAP out to use the stock insert (wider opening) BEFORE you start changing the angle. Otherwise you will bend and or knock your riving knife out out of wack! And it’s very difficult and time consuming to readjust and calibrate (assuming it’s not damaged) on these delta saws. Even though I already knew this, I’ve accidentally done it twice. You get going and sometimes forget. So, I used a label maker with red tape as a reminder: “Angled Cuts Warning - swap throat plate out”. I put one on the front of my saw (below where you see the current angle), and on the front right corner near the other wheel/dial which changes the angle.
Not that it takes away from your point about that saw, I have, it's shit, there's no nice way to put it. Anyway, not to take away from your point but those Veritas straight edges are not guaranteed to be flat within 0.001" for every 12" of length. So a 36" straight edge is guaranteed only to be straight within 0.003" over the entire length. That difference doesn't really matter when it comes to that piece of shit saw but it might on something else.
DUDE! Please tell us you're not using that stock push stick routinely.. You look like you're hoping for a nasty kickback. It really doesn't feel good to have a chunk of wood hit you in the gut. At the least it can knock the wind out of you. at the worst you'll have to have emergency surgery to sew your gut back up.. I know..I sound like every other you tube preacher, but c'mon..Those sticks are dangerous..I had to learn that the hard way years ago..
I've had this saw for about two months and it's a piece of crap. I've had the Rigid from Home Depot that costs about $150 more. Shame on me for trying to save $150. The fence is the only part that I have found acceptable. I just went out and checked if the cast iron table is flat. It's not even close. This is turning out to be a bigger piece of garbage than I thought.
Those 150.00 more for the Ridgid worth it ? I heard that the fence was not as good on the Ridgid, I'm still hesitant between both, thanks for your input
I bought this saw in 2014. It served me well but, as you stated, is not as accurate as I need. My upgrade has been nothing short of amazing : an '87 Delta Unisaw. Now, regarding the table top. The problem is, unfortunately, that the product comes from China. Cast iron tops need time to "season" and relax. A machinist friend of mine explained that cast iron can and will warp just like green wood. As it cools, the inner core cools more slowly than the outer core, this builds stress within the iron. When it's ground (and in a fast production facility) that releases the inner stress and hence warps. I also found that dust collection system to be problematic and if you don't fabricate a zero clearance insert, it gets clogged up with little pieces of off cuts. I eventually just removed it all together. You can then enclose the bottom of the frame walls and install a dust port there. Blade run out was a bit of an issue on mine. Again, that's no longer a problem with the Unisaw.
I'm happy with this review. I don't plan on making any fine furniture just rough stuff so that's great. You can also upgrade it so that it can take 220v. I've seen some videos you here but no proper reviews.
I pick up this saw about 3 weeks ago. Table dip wasn't as bad .005 on the left and .003 on the right from blade cutout hole. Pretty happy with this saw. Upgraded from a $150 craftsman which can never get a parallel cut. Oh and it was the newer model 36-725t2.
I agree with the bad points. I have had mine for a little over a year now. This is my second one. My first one had runout of 29 thousandths of an inch. .004 is acceptable by most standards. Back to Lowes (after 4 to 6 hours of assembly), Saw # 2. The same assembly time, maybe a little less. .014 out. I ended up stoning the blade washer till I got the acceptable .004". 4 hours! The washer is pressed on the arbor and not replaceable. Since that set up, I really have no issues to complain about. Eventually I will also upgrade, but I need a bigger building 1st. A nice review.
As a matter of routine I often hone my washers just to remove crud, rust and even the paint from saw blades. Hearing the inside washer is pressed in doesn't fill me with confidence.
The Delta 36-725 can be easily converted to 240 volt. Look in manual to show you location of 120/240 switch. You then need to cut off 120v male plug and install 240v plug.
I have one of these saws and only cut small stock using a jig like a sled or one that attaches to the fence. Much safer and more accurate. That will minimize the warped table and throat plate problems. You are correct, for cutting framing material or boards that are inches by feet dimension this works great. Thanks for your review.
I'm thinking the shorter arbor is intentional to discourage running a big dado stack. The table flatness would bug me too. I was considering this saw as a backup to my old Craftsman. We don't build china cabinets but do occasionally build kitchen cabinets.
I have to say two things. 1. It is a cabinet saw because the motor is mounted to the cabinet and not to the table top like a contractor saw. 2. You can hook it up to 220 and it will give you more power just less reliability
Then you don’t know anything about table saws. The Trunnions and motor assembly are mounted to the table like every other “Contractor” style table saw.
Thank you for the review. I literally just bought this saw tonight. I'm not that fine of a woodworker so I'm hoping I can overcome the level tabletop issue. Oh well, we'll see. I have a couple questions for you if you could be so kind to answer. 1. As far as the lack of threads on that arbor for installing a dado blade. Couldn't you flip that washer over to allow more threads to be exposed while still securing the blade? Concave instead of convex? 2. Facing the saw, you've added more table to the right with a T-track. Can you share with me what you did or used to improve this table top area? I need to do this. Thank you in advance. Bob
Thanks I was seriously looking at this saw but I think I will spend more money and look at King Industrial or maybe a Laguna. Would love a Sawstop but for the price of one of them I could get much more equipment for my shop. I will stay away from this saw however. Thanks again.
Make sure you get the Fusion 2 or better. The Fusion 1 is similar to this saw where the motor and arbor are mounted to the underside of the table causing the “dip” in the table surface.
The Fusion F1 is a better saw than these Delta's. The top on the F1 is thicker than on this Delta. The F2 is nice as well, but is a bit more money. Over the last 4 months I have owned the Delta 36-725T2, the Laguna Fusion F2, and now a Shop Fox W1837. The Delta had problems with the table flatness and also loose trunnions. The entire motor assembly moved around and the trunnions are not adjustable. So, that saw went back to Lowes. The Fusion F2 was damaged in shipping, so it had to go back. A replacement was not available. Nice saw, but the fence had a little too much flex due to the thin aluminum front rail. The W1837 is a great saw for $999. Some things on the Shop Fox are nicer than the Laguna, and others are nicer on the Laguna. I would stay away from these Delta's. Go with the Shop Fox W1837 / Grizzly G0771Z (same saws, different cabinets and features), or the Laguna Fusion F1/F2, or the Jet ProShop 2. The Fusion F2 and the Jet ProShop 2 are the same saw, just different cabinets and different features. IMO, the Jet is the best saw out of all of the above. The best warranty and the best fence. Well, actually the fence is probably similar to the Delta fence. The fence on the delta is the only thing good about that saw. The Delta's fence overall, is better than the Shop Fox / Grizzly and Laguna F1/F2 fences. I own the Shop Fox, but I would have purchased a Jet if they were available at the time. If you do not believe me about the above saws, being basically the same, well see for yourself. Look at photos online, and in the manuals. Compare the parts diagrams for the saws. You will see what I mean. As for flat tables, my Delta was at .018 front to back, and .014 across the blade. The Fusion F2 and Shop Fox W1837 could not be measured. This is because the smallest feeler gauge I have is .0015, and I could not get that under my straight edge on either of those saws. In any direction. So, those are basically flat. A note on flatness, the table top does not need to be perfectly flat, and the flatness will probably change over time. Anything around .005 is pretty good. Getting in the .010-.015 range is livable. Anything worse than that is well, not good and borderline awful. Also, even the best and most expensive saws out there suffer from uneven table tops. Do not expect perfect, but don't accept awful either.
I have the same saw, and i agree with your review, but, one thing to be mentioned , this saw came with an option to switch from 110 v to a 220 v, and i have mine set up for a 220 v.
I have an old 34-444C that i was looking to upgrade. Think i’ll just upgrade the fence.......for now. Edit: 32 thousandths of an inch (.032) is approx 1/32”.
As far as buying zero clearance inserts, you CAN buy them premade at www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html (Peachtree woodworking supply) They're inexpensive and they carry almost every contractor saw make.. I'm not sure why everyone and they're uncle thinks they have to make video's about spending all day making them, but they do.. Oh well..
Not discovering your machine is out of whack right out of the box is your own fault. I have this same saw and when I initially set it up I verified the table was perfectly flat in both directions before I even put the legs on it. Had to do some blade alignment and fence tweaking but my saw is out only .002 max from perfect. Where most people get into trouble is not paying due diligence and trying to go beyond the capabilities the machine was designed for. So I cannot speak for all of the delta saws but mine is verified spot on and I use it as intended. Don't be your own worst enemy.
If you want the motor to last longer don't starve it for power. Use a dedicated 20 amp outlet or better yet upgrade to 240. Running a 240 line is NOT difficult, but hire a qualified electrician if you don't feel comfortable doing it..same with 20 amp if you're not sure how.
I to heve this saw. I considered myself to Beginner to intermediate but somehow i seem to make some really nice boards. I haven't noticed that my cast iron is not flat (but will check now). Most everything i cut is hardwood and if i go slow i can get it done. I like the saw but like you will eventually move on to the next step up. Helpful video Brother!
For less than a hundred bucks you could take your top to a machine shop and have the surface ground to within half a thou of dead flat. Especially do-able because yours is cupped so no thickness would have to be taken out of the center. You'd lose 30 thou off the miter slot at the entry/exit, so if that's a feature you use often you'd also have to have those re-machined, but that's a pretty simple process for a machine shop as well.
Good job on the review. Sounds to me like you are talking yourself into a 220 saw. Go ahead and get it. You can probably add a 220 breaker in your panel.
I just view your video today and all I can say when I was 24 I purchased at Sears a manager special contractor saw you know the type open bottom and back belt drive motor1.25 hp and it has served me well over the years I build everything with it Kitchen Cabinets, chairs, tables, small box thing that move over now to my 14" bandsaw now, It Handel molding heads cutters, a full dado stack with spacers, and I am 64 I would not trade this in for a total inclose bigger cabinet table saw and 40 + years woodworking it does everything I ask of it, and the 2 & 1/2 car garage I build has 240 40 amp service
here's the link to the aftermarket zero clearance insert from lowes. delta also has a dado insert you can buy as well. www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Table-Saw-Zero-Clearance-Insert/50273917
Well, that's not exactly the saw's fault. Any cast iron is likely to show rust, especially if you live in a humid climate. You have to treat the metal. I have to do this constantly. You can use wax or some sort of oil. Gotta be careful with some oils and stuff and that will ruin the finish on your wood projects. I use a spray from Boeing. Woodcraft carries it. Makes stuff slide real nice on the table and it won't let the table rust. It also does not mess with your finishes. I apply it after I'm done using the saw.
Actually, when using the Dado Stack, you would normally just use the Dado Stack washers and remove the normal blade washer, thus solving that problem. Can't really see a reason to use the standard washer on the Dado Stack.
Not sure what dado stack you're using, but my Irwin stack did not come with washers. It came with spacers, but you can't use those on the outside otherwise you can't achieve the proper or full width of the stack. And for safety, blade stability, it's important to use the arbor washers that come with your saw, delta failed on this one.
My dado stack specifically tells me NOT to use the arbor washer. The same was true of the older set that I retired. But, I have always used an eight inch dado stack to protect my saw motor. Have never had any issues with cut quality.
Thanks for the great (and disappointing) review. That was very helpful… I’m buying this to build furniture. I’m replacing a 23 year old Ryobi Bt3000. I think most of your frustrations, I can live with…. Question, at this price point, is there another saw that’s better? I’ve also looked in to the Rigid r4520, but that gets worse reviews (even though it’s essentially the same saw)… I’d go with a cabinet saw, but I’m in a small garage and space is limited (it’s a space issue, not a money issue).
Hmmm... I really don't know anything about the new version. I'd really like to know that myself. If you choose to buy one, just make sure you check it for flatness.
I bought this saw 3 years back. After reading the Lowes reviews the only thing that popped up several times was that the motor would burn out. I decided that a quality 8 1/4 blade would do most of what I needed. The start up load on the motor with the 8 1/4 blade was almost zero. The motor should last forever. The few times I needed a larger blade I would load a 10" until the project was complete. This compromise works great for me. I expect to use this saw for another 20 years. Like they say you can not take it with you when you go. I never want the huge expense of replacing the motor. I custom made a insert for the blade that was a pain.
Fwiw, I can't fit the stabilizer on the arbor of my P2000, when I have a full dado stack on. I just use the nut. It's an 8" stack, because I've never seen the need for a larger one. So, I don't see that as a negative. I'm a full time professional woodworker, but I'm thinking about setting up a small shop at home (retirement is imminent!). Thanks for the video.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 Yeah the stabilizer washer is more for the larger single blades. It is fine to run a dado stack without it. BOOM! one "negative" gone!
I want to buy this saw but no Lowes in 200 miles of me has one in stock and it's exclusive to them. No way I'm buying the Rigid for $150 more for a crappy fence
The table bowing down is a common problem with tablesaws where the motor is hanging from the tabletop... more expensive saws have the motor mounted on the saw body so that there is no load on the table. I have heard the problem being described, but this is the first time I have seen a clear demonstration of how bad it could be.
I've heard of this happening. I don't know if my table came this way or if it happened over time because I never checked it the day I bought it. Stupid me...
The whole point of a cast iron saw table is to have a truly flat plane. Could it have warped from shop temperature changes over time? Could a machine shop lap mill the top to correct it?
Nice honest review. I wonder if the warped table is common for Delta saws? I'm sure if you discover it year one, Delta might have replaced it. Good luck.
Very useful review and you have covered all the bases, the (GBU🤣) Good, Bad and Ugly. The dished main table is the real UGLY part for which there is no easy or cheap remedy. Even my cheap Craftsman contractor saw of the 1980's vintage was flat to 0.004" across the 28x36 table. A lot of the people who rave about the saw may not even have recognized the problem or measured it. These are the kind of reviews that makes the internet most useful for viewers and not just the unboxing and generic ok or not-ok style.
I use minwax brand paste wax on mine, works great, doesn't leave residue on wood that will affect the finish, and leaves a barrier on the table to help prevent the cast iron from rusting
I plan on building Kitchen Cabinets for my house and almost bought a Used Delta 725saw. I'm glad I watched this. I guess the engineers made that Arbor short for a reason, they must be fully aware of the dips, perhaps discouraging the use of Dado blades. I wonder if the other versions of this saw are any better
that doesn't make sense. Engineering wouldn't alter the arbor length/thread length to discourage dado use because of an issue with either quality or the vendor (if the cast iron part is a buy item). First article sent to Delta quality for inspection would have noticed this issue with flatness. I'm thinking something happened to the mold after initially passing first article, but customer complaints would get back to engineering and they would confirm that the drawing calls for a specific flatness that was either confirmed or corrected before mass production.
FYI, you can rewire the saw to use 220, it's detailed in the owner's manual. I'm not sure when you said "upgrade", did you mean the saw or the wiring...
If you rewire the saw for 220, you don't really get any more horsepower. You'll cut the amps in half and have the same wattage, and horsepower. I want to upgrade to a whole new saw with at least 3HP.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 hp rating is for no slip motor operation. When the motor starts to load up, voltage drop is lower and slip and torque will be somewhat better. So 220V will provide noticeable improvement for highest duty cutting.
Just checked my 725. Mine is flat as a pancake. Hopefully flatter. Did the light test and no light in either direction. Can't believe they'd ship out tables that aren't flat. Thank you for your review.
So have you thought about getting the top resrufaced at a machine shop? Your review is excellent. Although the one I messed with at lowes the fence sucked. Any lateral pressure from front to back moved 1/8".
No. I'm just saving my pennies right now so I can afford a nice cabinet saw. I don't think I'm going to put money into this saw. As far as the fence... mine doesn't move at all. The person that put the demo floor model together probably didn't take the time to do it right.
Do you know if the top was level/flat when you first got it or did it warp over time? I just bought a secondhand (but new) one of these for a deal and the top is completely flat from what i can tell with a quality level. I wonder if there are some manufacturing issues with some of the tops, either that or they are warping over time...
I would consider this a better review if it was done when the saw was first bought, specially for the bed not being straight, now after 3 years it is not as valid as it depends in the use that was given to the saw, plus for the price it seems to provide more than enough.
I can't comment on reliability on a brand new saw. As for the warped table, my guess is that it was warped from day one. Only because other people have commented that they have owned the saw for years and the table is flat. My fault for not checking that right away.
Can anyone tell me the total assembled depth of the Delta 36-725 table saw? I've already purchased it but it's still in the box until the basement workshop gets finished. I want to make sure that I can roll it in and out of the shop when needed but don't know how wide I need the doorway to be in order to accommodate this. Unfortunately I can't find the dimensions on Delta's website. I reached out to them but haven't heard back yet. The answer would be a big help.
If people would read the manual, they'd understand their equipment better. This is easily converted to a 220v and you can get the extra power you want without having to upgrade for that reason. In addition, the one I own is perfectly flat and has stayed that way for 3 years. This is something that you should have contacted Delta about as they would have fixed it or you could have returned it... Unless you didn't notice until it was out of warranty.
Doubling the voltage doesn't do anything. It just means the saw is versatile for any power supply you have. When you double the voltage, you actually cut the amps in half. Wattage equals volts multiplied by amps. So in the end, you get the same wattage. Which means you get the same horsepower. Configured for 110, it's 1.75HP. Configured for 220, it's 1.75HP. A true 220 saw will make 3HP or 5HP. You cannot obtain 3HP with this saw.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 mine works way better after the 220v swap. Doesn't get bogged down. I'm not comparing bigger saws to this one, It's just seems worth noting the 220v plug option when you do a review instead of saying it's the worst thing about the saw. But not knowing a machine fully hasn't stopped others from posting reviews.
Was gonna buy one, glad I watched this. If one table is off level, its a very high chance they all are as well, since these are likely made in bulk with dies and forms.
Purchased the 36-725T2 earlier this month. My initial reaction was total pleasure in using it. I especially like the stability of the fence. However, after two weeks of use a problem has developed. The braking mechanism tends to lock up the blade so that it sticks when you re-engage the power. You literally need to spin the blade by hand or using a stick before turning on the power, and this is extremely dangerous. Contacted Delta and they indicated there has been a problem with this. Only advice they could offer was to return the saw to Lowes. The company seems to be aware of the problem and supposedly are working on it. However, I’m not certain any of the T2’s currently in stores will have the matter fixed. So be aware, you may find yourself having to return 350 pounds of saw to the store for a refund.
Love mine, I did check flat with 6' Level before I left the store as well as took a Frame square to it, which I did fine tune fence square later but it was very close, I do want to eventually put it in a Larger Table/With Outfeed, but you can just remove that thin metal, it is Not what fastens the arm in place.
your comment about the throat plate is spot on. When I bought mine a zero clearance plate wasn't available so i made one. found it was necessary to make especially when using the dado blade because couldn't use a plate with the dado installed
Appearance makes me want to save money. Performance convinces me to save money someplace else. Thanks for demonstrating the inaccuracies built into this saw. I just hate tools that make life harder instead of helping!
With all due respect, this is a $600 table saw, you say this yourself. It is not reasonable to have $2000 expectations. I am truly sorry that the cast iron table on yours is not flat, I have seen a few other comments/posts on the internet where people have the same issue. I will say, that I did extensive research before purchasing the newer 36-725T2 version of this saw and the only other real competition is the Rigid at Home Depot that is $750. The reviews/comments/experiences on that saw were not as good, the fence is not as solid and there were many complaints of the table not being flat.
To those out there considering this saw, please don't let this review scare you off, my opinion is that there is not a better saw on the market for under $1000. DO listen to what Termite is saying about potential limitations of this saw and think ahead, and by all means, check your table for level right away. Note...it will not be realistic to do this in the store, you have to unbox before and the main saw component is upside down in the box.
Addressing a few of Termite's concerns:
1. Arbor length and Dado stack. I have no issues, the instructions for my 8" dado stack say specifically that if you cannot get 2 threads past the nut with the stabilizer washer, then don't use the stabilizer washer. The main dado stack blades are not thin kerf and are heavy duty. This is not an issue.
2. Zero Clearance insert. These are available out there, look up CalyssaWoodworks on Etsy. $30 for one (discounts on 2 or 3) made of 1/2" MDF and specifically made for the 36-725 and 36-725T2. Fits perfectly.
3. Dust Collection. Mine works very well. Yes, depending on what you are doing there is some that it doesn't collect, especially when you use a zero clearance insert (very little pull through on the air flow) or cutting rabbets or dados. But, if you want to get perfect dust collection you need a full blown cabinet saw AND over the blade collection too.
4. Rear Fence Clamp. This is a valid concern, but this is only helping to keep the fence in place, it is not part of the clamping mechanism. In fact, I saw at least one TH-cam video where someone removed the black clip so that they could directly attach their outfeed table. Just leave that rear white nylon glide in place.
5. Not level top - true bummer, check your saw as soon as you can and if it is not acceptable take it back and get another. Is that a pain in the butt, yep, but we are the ones that want the best saw we can get for $600 and this is it. If you spend $2000 to $3500 on a SawStop or Powermatic 3-5HP Cabinet saw, you won't have this problem and if you do, you should be upset.
I have had this saw for about 6 weeks, so I'm a relative noob compared to Termite here, so thanks for the review man. To others, listen to what he says , think about what your short/medium/long term needs are, and go into it eyes wide open.
I do not think you will not find a better saw for under $1000.
Dude! I had no idea someone on Etsy sells zero clearance inserts! That's so awesome. Glad you posted that!
Also... I later discovered that the dado issue isn't really an issue at all. I just used a 3/4 dado stack this week and just left off three stabilizer washer. It worked fine.
You know what really bugs me about the whole warped table thing? It's the only thing that deep down bothers me about this saw. If the table were nice and flat, I'd be perfectly happy with with saw. Yeah... it's a $600 saw. But really... if they would have beefed up the top with a thicker cast iron, I would GLADLY have paid $700 or even $800. It would totally be worth paying an extra $200 for a flat table. The saw would still be in an affordable price range and it would have its worst flaw eliminated. Sometimes the manufacturers don't think.
I was about to purchase this saw. Thanks for the review Termite. David thanks also for the input. The saw I’m looking at now is the Laguna fusion 1 or 2. Any of you have an opinion on it?
Thanks again!!
@@termitewoodwerx5896 You know, what's weird about that table top is that it's a milled surface, and you actually have to do extra work to try to mill a surface to a curve like that. So I would guess that sometime after milling (to presumably flat) the table twisted/deformed from a too-hot milling process. A milling shop can re-surface it for you, but I've no idea of the cost. Shouldn't be too much, as it's soft material and a .001" tolerance is child's play for any modern machine.
That T2 version looks like it'll be another winner for Delta. I'm perfectly happy with the original version but if it died I'd probably give that one a try. I believe mine can be wired 220. Delta makes a dado and zero clearance insert for it, that I have.
@@madsteam77 The F2 is an amazing saw. This Delta is nowhere near the F2. That being said, the F2 does have what I consider to be a huge downside... The trunnion is made from aluminum. Not sure what Laguna was thinking, especially at that price point. Checkout Grizzly.
TIP/WARNING (Zero Clearance & Angled Cuts): when doing angled cuts 45’s, etc. MAKE NOT to use your zero clearance insert! SWAP out to use the stock insert (wider opening) BEFORE you start changing the angle. Otherwise you will bend and or knock your riving knife out out of wack! And it’s very difficult and time consuming to readjust and calibrate (assuming it’s not damaged) on these delta saws. Even though I already knew this, I’ve accidentally done it twice. You get going and sometimes forget. So, I used a label maker with red tape as a reminder: “Angled Cuts Warning - swap throat plate out”. I put one on the front of my saw (below where you see the current angle), and on the front right corner near the other wheel/dial which changes the angle.
For others reading these comment, I have owned this saw for 3-4 years and I built a quite successful WW business for which it is well responsible. Everything he says in this video is 100% true, but it doesn't have to stop you from finding success with it. I am also upgrading my saw, like he is, and cannot wait, but this one has served me well. The newer, more expensive one I"m getting will hopefully serve me well too and be a little more accurate, a little more powerful, etc. But when you're just starting out, this Delta will take you far! As an aside, when starting out, you really shouldn't be buying the most expensive tools, I started out with Harbor Freight trash tools, squares, etc. As I learned to Wood work, started making money with the low end equipment, I took my profits and started buying better, nicer tools. Now I run Festool, Wood Peckers, Powermatic, etc. Don't let cheap tools stop you from learning/improving!
This guy's hilarious. I'm looking at Laguna, Delta, Sawstop, but the way he puts it is pretty comedic and informative. Well done sir
Lagune Fusion II looks good to me!
Truly excellent review!!!!!!
I have the Ridgid version of this saw that I just got. After 2 days of setting it up and trying to get everything as straight as possible (given that lots of parts weren't straight to begin with) and complaining a lot, turns out it cuts accurately and squarely. My table isn't flat either, and I actually reached out to Ridgid as I initially wasn't happy about that.....and given this was my second saw, I wasn't in the mood to box this one up and bring it back and try a third time (first one was damaged in shipping). I threw a straight edge on the table and had the "WTF" moment when I saw light leaking through.....but, it looked worse than it is, and is only around a half millimeter gap at the most when I put some feeler gauges on it. I can still square up the blade (on both sides) and once I got the fence dialed in, cuts straight. Just made some plywood shelves for my laundry room, and all the angles/edges are 90 degrees. I cut almost everything on the table saw, except for some 45 degree miters on my miter saw......I was impressed with it. Not impressed with the quality control/manufacturing though.....but, for me personally, mine should get the job done in most cases. I'm also surprised at how accurate the measuring tape on the fence rail is.....I find myself constantly checking the gap between the fence and the blade, and it's dead on (not sure why I keep measuring, other than force of habit from crappy jobsite table saws). Now, if I had an actual shop and not my garage, then I'd spend the money for a really nice cabinet saw - but since I just bought this house last year and really don't feel like moving, I don't foresee that happening anytime soon.
Have had mine for 5 years. I am amateur, don’t see any need for anything more from a saw. I have customized it with drawer for storage. I do agree with the dust collection system inside the cabinet sucking big time, only negative for me
Stack 7 1/4 contractor blades, Does every bit as good as overpriced dado blade
I have the same saw and I have a perfectly flat table. I wonder if yours warped after machining? Anyway nice review, completely agree about the dust collection!
Thank you for the extensive review! I find myself always looking for the perfect saw. I don't think that is possible in the price point I'm searching. I do believe that there are enough positives out there for this saw to be an entry level saw for the entry level/weekend woodworker. There are more positives than negatives.
Has anyone come up with an option to add an outfeed table or a router table side wing for this saw yet??
Thanks again for your time!
@M. M I am looking at buying a used one for $300. I think the pros are higher than the cons at this price.
Thanks for a great review. I bought a 36-5000 (same as 36-725 but with 15 amp motor) 2 years ago and could have used the surface flatness info. I've had no problems, but the surface is the same as you showed. You are the first review that I've seen that really takes a in depth look at this saw.
I appreciate your review but if you are making fine furniture you should have made the investment in fine equipment!
You're absolutely right. But... you gotta start somewhere. I'm growing in my skills, so it's time to upgrade the tools.
Most people don't go out on day one of a hobby and fill the garage with the best of the best tools.
Of course, nobody would invest in a tool that does not match their skills. Life does not work that way: you are not born a fine furniture maker. He’s just saying, several times if you paid attention, his skills have now outgrown the tool and he wants to upgrade.
Nice review. I bought the Delta 36-T30 T4 fence separately for my older Craftsman 113. A great fence system.
Something else to consider... The other 80% formula for power is, you typically do not want to load a circuit more than 80% of its rated amperage. A standard house circuit is 15A (1800W @ 120V), so that means no more than 12A should be drawn (1440W @ 120V). Many saws routinely go over that and you can either pop your breaker and/or even cause issues with your motor (burn out capacitors). This is especially important on a circuit shared by other devices. I run my saw on a dedicated 20A circuit, so it has plenty of headroom to run efficiently and not overload the wiring (80% is 16A, 1920W @ 120V).
I'll be upgrading my Craftsman motor to a 220V model when I can get my hands on a decently priced one, along with a new circuit to support it. The 120V motor does okay for now, but is a little sluggish... as you pointed out.
Thank you. I was getting ready to go buy the saw but the table issue kills it for me.
Other people seem to not have a problem with it. Maybe bring a straight edge and check it before you buy it. They might not all be like mine.
Mine is Flat.
It's because the motor hangs off the cast iron top like most hybrid saws, cabinet saws usually have it attached to the frame so there's no weight pulling on the top... If they produce the top and store it for a year the cast iron would be more stable and handle the weight but I wouldn't see that with any Home Depot or Lowe's.
I have the same saw and did change the blade too. I didn’t have 220 at the time so this is a great saw. I’ve cut 300 bf of 8/4 maple. You have to go slow and sometimes it bogged down but I worked. This is a great saw to start woodworking. Nice review.
I've had my saw for 5 years and don't have the issues you do. My saw top is machined flat.
I guess it's luck if the draw. Since you've had yours for 5 years with the table flat, that rules out the theory that the motor's weight causes it to sag. Mine must have been out of flat from the beginning.
Fair criticism but it's still a lot of saw for the price. The throat plate is awful but amazon sells a zero clearance plate that fits perfectly. Not marketed for this saw but it is the same plate. A crosscut sled takes care of the low spot beside the blade. As far as the "short" arbor, you can skip the washer and just use the nut occasionally. I didn't hear this guy mention the riving knife adjustment, which is a giant PITA. The book doesn't explain it accurately but with a little patience, it can be dialed in perfectly.
If all these things were improved at the factory this thing would end up costing 3000 bucks, which defeats the purpose of having an intermediate saw.
FYI Per Delta customer service, Delta will warrantee a table thats out by more than 15 thousands.
Well done review.
I winced as you grabbed the blade with your hand and later leaned over it.
I have a very high fear of table saws and am deliberate in all my movement when using them.
The zero clearance throat plate is a delta power equipment #36-501 sells on Amazon for about 38 dollars. Fits perfectly. Worth every dollar.
Thanks for the tip! Just ordered it.
TIP/WARNING: when doing angled cuts 45’s, etc. MAKE SURE NOT use your zero clearance insert! SWAP out to use the stock insert (wider opening) BEFORE you start changing the angle. Otherwise you will bend and or knock your riving knife out out of wack! And it’s very difficult and time consuming to readjust and calibrate (assuming it’s not damaged) on these delta saws. Even though I already knew this, I’ve accidentally done it twice. You get going and sometimes forget. So, I used a label maker with red tape as a reminder: “Angled Cuts Warning - swap throat plate out”. I put one on the front of my saw (below where you see the current angle), and on the front right corner near the other wheel/dial which changes the angle.
Not that it takes away from your point about that saw, I have, it's shit, there's no nice way to put it. Anyway, not to take away from your point but those Veritas straight edges are not guaranteed to be flat within 0.001" for every 12" of length. So a 36" straight edge is guaranteed only to be straight within 0.003" over the entire length. That difference doesn't really matter when it comes to that piece of shit saw but it might on something else.
DUDE! Please tell us you're not using that stock push stick routinely.. You look like you're hoping for a nasty kickback. It really doesn't feel good to have a chunk of wood hit you in the gut. At the least it can knock the wind out of you. at the worst you'll have to have emergency surgery to sew your gut back up.. I know..I sound like every other you tube preacher, but c'mon..Those sticks are dangerous..I had to learn that the hard way years ago..
you know you can convert the 36-725 to 220v very easily by changing the cord and flipping the switch in the back. Cheap and efficient.
I've had this saw for about two months and it's a piece of crap. I've had the Rigid from Home Depot that costs about $150 more. Shame on me for trying to save $150. The fence is the only part that I have found acceptable. I just went out and checked if the cast iron table is flat. It's not even close. This is turning out to be a bigger piece of garbage than I thought.
Those 150.00 more for the Ridgid worth it ? I heard that the fence was not as good on the Ridgid, I'm still hesitant between both, thanks for your input
@@gilkennedy7638 True, but an aftermarket fence is relatively easy to install on a rigid
I bought this saw in 2014. It served me well but, as you stated, is not as accurate as I need. My upgrade has been nothing short of amazing : an '87 Delta Unisaw.
Now, regarding the table top. The problem is, unfortunately, that the product comes from China. Cast iron tops need time to "season" and relax. A machinist friend of mine explained that cast iron can and will warp just like green wood. As it cools, the inner core cools more slowly than the outer core, this builds stress within the iron. When it's ground (and in a fast production facility) that releases the inner stress and hence warps.
I also found that dust collection system to be problematic and if you don't fabricate a zero clearance insert, it gets clogged up with little pieces of off cuts. I eventually just removed it all together. You can then enclose the bottom of the frame walls and install a dust port there.
Blade run out was a bit of an issue on mine. Again, that's no longer a problem with the Unisaw.
I'm happy with this review. I don't plan on making any fine furniture just rough stuff so that's great. You can also upgrade it so that it can take 220v. I've seen some videos you here but no proper reviews.
Thanks for all that info buddy did not know about it not being a flat surface thanks again
I pick up this saw about 3 weeks ago. Table dip wasn't as bad .005 on the left and .003 on the right from blade cutout hole. Pretty happy with this saw. Upgraded from a $150 craftsman which can never get a parallel cut. Oh and it was the newer model 36-725t2.
Maybe the newer models are made better. I could live with .005.
Dirtbikes, white Nikes and woodworking... will you be my dad? lol great video
All houses have 220. It is an easy task to add a 220 V outlet. Esp if your breaker panel is in your shop.
I agree with the bad points. I have had mine for a little over a year now. This is my second one. My first one had runout of 29 thousandths of an inch. .004 is acceptable by most standards. Back to Lowes (after 4 to 6 hours of assembly), Saw # 2. The same assembly time, maybe a little less. .014 out. I ended up stoning the blade washer till I got the acceptable .004". 4 hours! The washer is pressed on the arbor and not replaceable. Since that set up, I really have no issues to complain about. Eventually I will also upgrade, but I need a bigger building 1st. A nice review.
As a matter of routine I often hone my washers just to remove crud, rust and even the paint from saw blades. Hearing the inside washer is pressed in doesn't fill me with confidence.
The Delta 36-725 can be easily converted to 240 volt.
Look in manual to show you location of 120/240 switch. You then need to cut off 120v male plug and install 240v plug.
Yes. I get that... but it doesn't give it any more horsepower.
I have one of these saws and only cut small stock using a jig like a sled or one that attaches to the fence. Much safer and more accurate. That will minimize the warped table and throat plate problems. You are correct, for cutting framing material or boards that are inches by feet dimension this works great. Thanks for your review.
I have this saw. They do make a zero clearance insert from Delta and the saw can be wired for 220v just refer to the instructions.
I was just gonna say the same thing about the 220v. I changed mine and it feels more powerful. Great saw for the price.
I'm thinking the shorter arbor is intentional to discourage running a big dado stack. The table flatness would bug me too. I was considering this saw as a backup to my old Craftsman. We don't build china cabinets but do occasionally build kitchen cabinets.
I have to say two things. 1. It is a cabinet saw because the motor is mounted to the cabinet and not to the table top like a contractor saw. 2. You can hook it up to 220 and it will give you more power just less reliability
Then you don’t know anything about table saws. The Trunnions and motor assembly are mounted to the table like every other “Contractor” style table saw.
Does anybody know where I can buy the nut for the blade ?
Woodpecker dado nut solves the problem with the dado for the most part.
Switch the saw too 240 it’s just switching a wire in the motor I did it to mine way better saw now
Dust collection problem can be solved with reducer.
Thank you for the review. I literally just bought this saw tonight. I'm not that fine of a woodworker so I'm hoping I can overcome the level tabletop issue. Oh well, we'll see. I have a couple questions for you if you could be so kind to answer.
1. As far as the lack of threads on that arbor for installing a dado blade. Couldn't you flip that washer over to allow more threads to be exposed while still securing the blade? Concave instead of convex?
2. Facing the saw, you've added more table to the right with a T-track. Can you share with me what you did or used to improve this table top area? I need to do this.
Thank you in advance.
Bob
You can take that back rail off just have to put slides on the fence itself.
shame you can't even buy this brand in Australia...
Thanks I was seriously looking at this saw but I think I will spend more money and look at King Industrial or maybe a Laguna. Would love a Sawstop but for the price of one of them I could get much more equipment for my shop. I will stay away from this saw however. Thanks again.
This is a great saw. I've had mine for 7yrs and it's perfectly level.
Great review. I guess I going have to get the Laguna fusion , the table has to be flat.
Make sure you get the Fusion 2 or better. The Fusion 1 is similar to this saw where the motor and arbor are mounted to the underside of the table causing the “dip” in the table surface.
The Fusion F1 is a better saw than these Delta's. The top on the F1 is thicker than on this Delta. The F2 is nice as well, but is a bit more money. Over the last 4 months I have owned the Delta 36-725T2, the Laguna Fusion F2, and now a Shop Fox W1837. The Delta had problems with the table flatness and also loose trunnions. The entire motor assembly moved around and the trunnions are not adjustable. So, that saw went back to Lowes. The Fusion F2 was damaged in shipping, so it had to go back. A replacement was not available. Nice saw, but the fence had a little too much flex due to the thin aluminum front rail. The W1837 is a great saw for $999. Some things on the Shop Fox are nicer than the Laguna, and others are nicer on the Laguna.
I would stay away from these Delta's. Go with the Shop Fox W1837 / Grizzly G0771Z (same saws, different cabinets and features), or the Laguna Fusion F1/F2, or the Jet ProShop 2. The Fusion F2 and the Jet ProShop 2 are the same saw, just different cabinets and different features. IMO, the Jet is the best saw out of all of the above. The best warranty and the best fence. Well, actually the fence is probably similar to the Delta fence. The fence on the delta is the only thing good about that saw. The Delta's fence overall, is better than the Shop Fox / Grizzly and Laguna F1/F2 fences. I own the Shop Fox, but I would have purchased a Jet if they were available at the time.
If you do not believe me about the above saws, being basically the same, well see for yourself. Look at photos online, and in the manuals. Compare the parts diagrams for the saws. You will see what I mean.
As for flat tables, my Delta was at .018 front to back, and .014 across the blade. The Fusion F2 and Shop Fox W1837 could not be measured. This is because the smallest feeler gauge I have is .0015, and I could not get that under my straight edge on either of those saws. In any direction. So, those are basically flat. A note on flatness, the table top does not need to be perfectly flat, and the flatness will probably change over time. Anything around .005 is pretty good. Getting in the .010-.015 range is livable. Anything worse than that is well, not good and borderline awful. Also, even the best and most expensive saws out there suffer from uneven table tops. Do not expect perfect, but don't accept awful either.
I have the same saw, and i agree with your review, but, one thing to be mentioned , this saw came with an option to switch from 110 v to a 220 v, and i have mine set up for a 220 v.
I have an old 34-444C that i was looking to upgrade. Think i’ll just upgrade the fence.......for now.
Edit: 32 thousandths of an inch (.032) is approx 1/32”.
As far as buying zero clearance inserts, you CAN buy them premade at www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_zero_clearance.html (Peachtree woodworking supply) They're inexpensive and they carry almost every contractor saw make.. I'm not sure why everyone and they're uncle thinks they have to make video's about spending all day making them, but they do.. Oh well..
Better start your riving knife to prevent kick back
Not discovering your machine is out of whack right out of the box is your own fault. I have this same saw and when I initially set it up I verified the table was perfectly flat in both directions before I even put the legs on it. Had to do some blade alignment and fence tweaking but my saw is out only .002 max from perfect. Where most people get into trouble is not paying due diligence and trying to go beyond the capabilities the machine was designed for. So I cannot speak for all of the delta saws but mine is verified spot on and I use it as intended. Don't be your own worst enemy.
If you want the motor to last longer don't starve it for power. Use a dedicated 20 amp outlet or better yet upgrade to 240. Running a 240 line is NOT difficult, but hire a qualified electrician if you don't feel comfortable doing it..same with 20 amp if you're not sure how.
I to heve this saw. I considered myself to Beginner to intermediate but somehow i seem to make some really nice boards. I haven't noticed that my cast iron is not flat (but will check now). Most everything i cut is hardwood and if i go slow i can get it done. I like the saw but like you will eventually move on to the next step up. Helpful video Brother!
For less than a hundred bucks you could take your top to a machine shop and have the surface ground to within half a thou of dead flat. Especially do-able because yours is cupped so no thickness would have to be taken out of the center. You'd lose 30 thou off the miter slot at the entry/exit, so if that's a feature you use often you'd also have to have those re-machined, but that's a pretty simple process for a machine shop as well.
Thought about that. It might be a good solution.
I think you got a bad saw. I checked mine after watching this and mine is a close to perfectly flat as It can be
Good job on the review. Sounds to me like you are talking yourself into a 220 saw. Go ahead and get it. You can probably add a 220 breaker in your panel.
I just view your video today and all I can say when I was 24 I purchased at Sears a manager special contractor saw you know the type open bottom and back belt drive motor1.25 hp and it has served me well over the years I build everything with it Kitchen Cabinets, chairs, tables, small box thing that move over now to my 14" bandsaw now, It Handel molding heads cutters, a full dado stack with spacers, and I am 64 I would not trade this in for a total inclose bigger cabinet table saw and 40 + years woodworking it does everything I ask of it, and the 2 & 1/2 car garage I build has 240 40 amp service
here's the link to the aftermarket zero clearance insert from lowes. delta also has a dado insert you can buy as well. www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Table-Saw-Zero-Clearance-Insert/50273917
I am already seeing corrosion of the table top after 3 months in my garage.
Well, that's not exactly the saw's fault. Any cast iron is likely to show rust, especially if you live in a humid climate. You have to treat the metal. I have to do this constantly. You can use wax or some sort of oil. Gotta be careful with some oils and stuff and that will ruin the finish on your wood projects. I use a spray from Boeing. Woodcraft carries it. Makes stuff slide real nice on the table and it won't let the table rust. It also does not mess with your finishes. I apply it after I'm done using the saw.
Actually, when using the Dado Stack, you would normally just use the Dado Stack washers and remove the normal blade washer, thus solving that problem. Can't really see a reason to use the standard washer on the Dado Stack.
Not sure what dado stack you're using, but my Irwin stack did not come with washers. It came with spacers, but you can't use those on the outside otherwise you can't achieve the proper or full width of the stack. And for safety, blade stability, it's important to use the arbor washers that come with your saw, delta failed on this one.
My dado stack specifically tells me NOT to use the arbor washer. The same was true of the older set that I retired. But, I have always used an eight inch dado stack to protect my saw motor. Have never had any issues with cut quality.
What saw did you upgrade to?
Thanks for the great (and disappointing) review. That was very helpful… I’m buying this to build furniture. I’m replacing a 23 year old Ryobi Bt3000. I think most of your frustrations, I can live with…. Question, at this price point, is there another saw that’s better? I’ve also looked in to the Rigid r4520, but that gets worse reviews (even though it’s essentially the same saw)… I’d go with a cabinet saw, but I’m in a small garage and space is limited (it’s a space issue, not a money issue).
Do you think the new version of the table and (36-725T2) has the same issue with the table top?
Hmmm... I really don't know anything about the new version. I'd really like to know that myself. If you choose to buy one, just make sure you check it for flatness.
Yes. I just opened mine today, and I will now have to return it.
Thanks for the excellent review
Keep in min this saw has been upgraded and is now the 36-725T2
This video explains the changes
th-cam.com/video/_erbaD6ooXs/w-d-xo.html
I bought this saw 3 years back. After reading the Lowes reviews the only thing that popped up several times was that the motor would burn out. I decided that a quality 8 1/4 blade would do most of what I needed. The start up load on the motor with the 8 1/4 blade was almost zero. The motor should last forever. The few times I needed a larger blade I would load a 10" until the project was complete. This compromise works great for me. I expect to use this saw for another 20 years. Like they say you can not take it with you when you go. I never want the huge expense of replacing the motor. I custom made a insert for the blade that was a pain.
Great review, but lets be honest this is one of the nicest saws you can buy for less than $1000.00
How much of your dado were you actually able to use w/ this saw?
I'm running 3/4 dados now that I've left the outer washer off.
Bull I have the same saw the top on mine. Is flat as a pancake and level I added a wixey gpauge for ripping the saw is great.
Fwiw, I can't fit the stabilizer on the arbor of my P2000, when I have a full dado stack on. I just use the nut. It's an 8" stack, because I've never seen the need for a larger one. So, I don't see that as a negative. I'm a full time professional woodworker, but I'm thinking about setting up a small shop at home (retirement is imminent!). Thanks for the video.
Interesting. I never tried to run the entire Dado without the stabilizer washer. Maybe I'll try it.
Regardless, your PM2000 is a far superior saw.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 Yeah the stabilizer washer is more for the larger single blades. It is fine to run a dado stack without it. BOOM! one "negative" gone!
My the instructions on my 8" dado stack specifically says not to use the stabilizer washer if you don't have 2 full threads past the nut. No problem!
I just tried a 3/4 dado stack with no stabilizer and it did indeed work fine. Guess it's not a problem after all.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 Glad it worked out for you!
I want to buy this saw but no Lowes in 200 miles of me has one in stock and it's exclusive to them. No way I'm buying the Rigid for $150 more for a crappy fence
Look on the Lowes app. They might be able to ship one to your door.
Delivery unavailable. Guess I'm screwed
Find an excuse for a road trip.
Heck, I'd ship you one but the shipping is probably more than the saw itself.
Home Depot sells them
According to the new specs on the saw , you can change the voltage to 220 . I don't know if your saw does that.
The table bowing down is a common problem with tablesaws where the motor is hanging from the tabletop... more expensive saws have the motor mounted on the saw body so that there is no load on the table. I have heard the problem being described, but this is the first time I have seen a clear demonstration of how bad it could be.
I've heard of this happening. I don't know if my table came this way or if it happened over time because I never checked it the day I bought it. Stupid me...
The whole point of a cast iron saw table is to have a truly flat plane. Could it have warped from shop temperature changes over time? Could a machine shop lap mill the top to correct it?
Nice honest review. I wonder if the warped table is common for Delta saws? I'm sure if you discover it year one, Delta might have replaced it. Good luck.
Very useful review and you have covered all the bases, the (GBU🤣) Good, Bad and Ugly. The dished main table is the real UGLY part for which there is no easy or cheap remedy. Even my cheap Craftsman contractor saw of the 1980's vintage was flat to 0.004" across the 28x36 table. A lot of the people who rave about the saw may not even have recognized the problem or measured it. These are the kind of reviews that makes the internet most useful for viewers and not just the unboxing and generic ok or not-ok style.
Thanks for the awesome video. I got this second hand. Is there a way to make the fence slide more smoothly? Wax or oil?
Wax or silicone lube often and keep the rails and the plastic sliders on the fence clean
I use minwax brand paste wax on mine, works great, doesn't leave residue on wood that will affect the finish, and leaves a barrier on the table to help prevent the cast iron from rusting
@@benkinnard7095 maholo Ben. I’ll give it a try
15 amp table saw
I'm with #196. I was gonna get rid of my Dewalt. Gonna buy a Saw Stop. Thank 😊 you.
I so will not be buying this saw now. That table top is a joke. I'm going with some heavy ass cast iron, shoooooot
Mine is ok. It is heavy cast iron. If there's an issue with a low spot, it's not on every saw.
I plan on building Kitchen Cabinets for my house and almost bought a Used Delta 725saw. I'm glad I watched this. I guess the engineers made that Arbor short for a reason, they must be fully aware of the dips, perhaps discouraging the use of Dado blades. I wonder if the other versions of this saw are any better
that doesn't make sense. Engineering wouldn't alter the arbor length/thread length to discourage dado use because of an issue with either quality or the vendor (if the cast iron part is a buy item). First article sent to Delta quality for inspection would have noticed this issue with flatness. I'm thinking something happened to the mold after initially passing first article, but customer complaints would get back to engineering and they would confirm that the drawing calls for a specific flatness that was either confirmed or corrected before mass production.
FYI, you can rewire the saw to use 220, it's detailed in the owner's manual. I'm not sure when you said "upgrade", did you mean the saw or the wiring...
If you rewire the saw for 220, you don't really get any more horsepower. You'll cut the amps in half and have the same wattage, and horsepower. I want to upgrade to a whole new saw with at least 3HP.
And ideally.... a flat top! Lol
@@termitewoodwerx5896 Good to know..
@@termitewoodwerx5896 hp rating is for no slip motor operation. When the motor starts to load up, voltage drop is lower and slip and torque will be somewhat better. So 220V will provide noticeable improvement for highest duty cutting.
Excellent review. Thank you.
Conceding
Wow thanks for the demo of feeler gauges super helpful wish I had seen this before buying a used one last month
Just checked my 725. Mine is flat as a pancake. Hopefully flatter. Did the light test and no light in either direction. Can't believe they'd ship out tables that aren't flat. Thank you for your review.
I'm not sure, but maybe it's something that happened over time.
So have you thought about getting the top resrufaced at a machine shop? Your review is excellent. Although the one I messed with at lowes the fence sucked. Any lateral pressure from front to back moved 1/8".
No. I'm just saving my pennies right now so I can afford a nice cabinet saw. I don't think I'm going to put money into this saw.
As far as the fence... mine doesn't move at all. The person that put the demo floor model together probably didn't take the time to do it right.
Just picked one up yesterday and it's got a nasty dip in the center. Gonna go open boxes 📦until the diamond presents its self...
Glad it's not just me!
thanks
Do you know if the top was level/flat when you first got it or did it warp over time?
I just bought a secondhand (but new) one of these for a deal and the top is completely flat from what i can tell with a quality level.
I wonder if there are some manufacturing issues with some of the tops, either that or they are warping over time...
This saw will run on220 just change the wiring, owners manual
I would consider this a better review if it was done when the saw was first bought, specially for the bed not being straight, now after 3 years it is not as valid as it depends in the use that was given to the saw, plus for the price it seems to provide more than enough.
I can't comment on reliability on a brand new saw.
As for the warped table, my guess is that it was warped from day one. Only because other people have commented that they have owned the saw for years and the table is flat. My fault for not checking that right away.
Can anyone tell me the total assembled depth of the Delta 36-725 table saw?
I've already purchased it but it's still in the box until the basement workshop gets finished. I want to make sure that I can roll it in and out of the shop when needed but don't know how wide I need the doorway to be in order to accommodate this. Unfortunately I can't find the dimensions on Delta's website. I reached out to them but haven't heard back yet.
The answer would be a big help.
31 and a half from from real to rear rail.
That’s great! Thank you for the reply, the info is very helpful and the video was quite insightful.
If people would read the manual, they'd understand their equipment better. This is easily converted to a 220v and you can get the extra power you want without having to upgrade for that reason. In addition, the one I own is perfectly flat and has stayed that way for 3 years. This is something that you should have contacted Delta about as they would have fixed it or you could have returned it... Unless you didn't notice until it was out of warranty.
Doubling the voltage doesn't do anything. It just means the saw is versatile for any power supply you have.
When you double the voltage, you actually cut the amps in half. Wattage equals volts multiplied by amps. So in the end, you get the same wattage. Which means you get the same horsepower. Configured for 110, it's 1.75HP. Configured for 220, it's 1.75HP.
A true 220 saw will make 3HP or 5HP. You cannot obtain 3HP with this saw.
@@termitewoodwerx5896 mine works way better after the 220v swap. Doesn't get bogged down.
I'm not comparing bigger saws to this one, It's just seems worth noting the 220v plug option when you do a review instead of saying it's the worst thing about the saw. But not knowing a machine fully hasn't stopped others from posting reviews.
Was gonna buy one, glad I watched this. If one table is off level, its a very high chance they all are as well, since these are likely made in bulk with dies and forms.
Not true. Mine is perfectly level and I love it. Took the legs off because I hated that flip lever. Now I can roll it anywhere I want with a finger.
do you still have this saw
Yes, I do
Purchased the 36-725T2 earlier this month. My initial reaction was total pleasure in using it. I especially like the stability of the fence. However, after two weeks of use a problem has developed. The braking mechanism tends to lock up the blade so that it sticks when you re-engage the power. You literally need to spin the blade by hand or using a stick before turning on the power, and this is extremely dangerous. Contacted Delta and they indicated there has been a problem with this. Only advice they could offer was to return the saw to Lowes. The company seems to be aware of the problem and supposedly are working on it. However, I’m not certain any of the T2’s currently in stores will have the matter fixed. So be aware, you may find yourself having to return 350 pounds of saw to the store for a refund.
I also have the T2 and (thankfully) have not experienced that problem Robb. There are good ones out there.
Is this a T2 model?
No. It's the older one.
It's a $600 "contractors" table saw.. sheesh. lol
Love mine, I did check flat with 6' Level before I left the store as well as took a Frame square to it, which I did fine tune fence square later but it was very close, I do want to eventually put it in a Larger Table/With Outfeed, but you can just remove that thin metal, it is Not what fastens the arm in place.
Did you add a router table to your saw? Do you have a video on that
your comment about the throat plate is spot on. When I bought mine a zero clearance plate wasn't available so i made one. found it was necessary to make especially when using the dado blade because couldn't use a plate with the dado installed
I understand that they actually make them now.