First time on your channel and I like what I see. I'm here because I just bought a used 36-735. You mentioning that the table saw just dropped the dust on the floor reminded me of my father. 1960's, Craftsman belt drive. He built a stand for it and the dust dropped into a drawer. The drawer was emptied into the compost pile. How times have changed. Thank you for your effort. I understand more than most how much work goes into a video like this. It doesn't just jump out of the camera to TH-cam... I edit for my wife ;)
Thanks a lot! You have a do take some time, every time I’m working on a project. I have to debate if I’m gonna film it or not because it’ll take five times as long!
I recently purchased from Lowes ($200 off due to small scratch on one of the table legs. One little spray of matching paint... no more scratch) the DELTA Contractor saw 10-in 15-Amp Contractor Table Saw with Fixed Stand, Model #36-725T2. Thank you for the great new ideas especially dust collection. 👍 I'm in the process of talking with Delta engineers on upgrading to a 240V motor.
50+ years at the trade, my first time on your channel. Many practical and proven hacks and concepts here, and GREAT video presentation! With your fresh analytical approach, candor and humility, you are on your way to a wonderful and creative woodworking life. As for your overhead dust collection solution, you can replicate the cantilevered boom arm of the commercial models with gussetted plywood construction or with a nominal amount of T-slot extrusion and fittings, such as made by 80/20. If you do so and create a robust and rigid enough structure, consider adding pressure rollers to the hood assembly, thereby harvesting a second very useful functionality from your investment of time and money in the boom. Subscribed; never too old to keep learning.
Just ran across you video. Very informative. I have had a Q10 for about 20+ years that i have used pretty regularly when I was a 9-5 guy my dut collection is very similar to yours. Made mine out of left over ductwork, same for the opening for height adjustment. A strong magnet holds that in place. I'll be retiring from driving in a few months and then looking forward toa lot more shop time. One other thing about dust collection is to always run the collector for a bit after shutting the saw off. This will lessen the chance of dust getting into the motor
Thank you so much for taking time to make this video! I’m currently bouncing back & forth between this exact Delta table saw & the SawStop jobsite pro table saw… this has been super informative. 👍🏼
No prob! Yeah, that’s a really tough decision. I personally am very interested in sawstops for myself however, I’m not a fan of jobsite saws at all. I haven’t gotten to play with a sawstops job site so I can’t speak to it directly. Tough decision!
Your customer dust collection over the blade is an awesome idea. To keep it from moving you could come off the side of the pole that lowered it with something that could adjust and a magswitch to the table.
Brilliant review and extremely helpfull regarding setting up. l just bought one and l am really happy with it. Did a ton of research before the purchase, it was the rack and pinion fence that swung it for me.
I have the Delta 36-725T2 model that I managed to get in a clearance sale in lowe’s here in Canada. Very happy because I only paid $600 CDN ($450 US) for it last year. Your video gave me a few good ideas on how to improve the dust collection, and storage. Unfortunately, I seem to happen having the same issue as “Spencer”, short guy here (5’6”). It’s crazy but the sawstop seems to be at a more comfortable height… but also unfortunately, I don’t have the money to make such investment.
I hear you on the saw stop money thing I have wanted one for a long time and even asked one xmas for everyone to just give me money towards it but oomph it’s pricey and if I’m goi g to big spend I don’t want a bottom of the line one. Want the full sled etc. glad i was able to give you some ideas!
I got the Delta 36-725t2 this week at Lowe's and I found the 52in rails from Home Depot. The rails said they're for the 5000 series saw but reviews said they'll fit. The page also said it couldn't be ordered alone but it still came! Your Amazon link threw me for a loop because the product name says its 30in rails but now I see the product dimensions say 62in long. Oh well! Could have saved $25. Looking forward to finishing the setup this weekend. I just got it turned over last night.
Great video showing tips on making the Delta saw more functional. I just bought this saw and am almost complete with the assembly. I learned quite a few good tips that I'm going to incorporate into my saw from this video. I love the idea of using all of the usable space under the saw and modifying the dust collection. I'm now a new subscriber to your channel and look forward to seeing more helpful videos. Stay safe and keep doing what you love.
👍👍 My table saw is a very modified vintage (aka early 60’s) Craftsman my dust collection system is a bit different letting the heavier chips fall in a box under the saw then only the lighter dust into the dust collector (not a shop vacuum) works very good, not sealed to maintain a high CFM needed for good dust collection, still looking at overhead collection. For your overhead swing arm look at 3/4” or 1” ent conduit (electrical) an electrician could bend it for you. High pressure laminate (Formica) makes a smooth slick surface for extension tables. My new shop is about 600 sq foot I know it will not be larger enough when I finely get moved in, 8 months without a shop. I’ve been woodworking for 50+ years and still learning continuously. Wish I’d taken dust collection seriously earlier!
Oomph 8 months without! Thanks for sharing and yes the electrical conduit I’ve looked at. I’ve mentioned a couple times on here. I don’t know how to weld and I’m actually debating using that as my testing grounds for learning off the big thing that I missing with the overhead Dust collection is rigidity. But at the same time for the channel, I kind of like being able to just mod some thing existing so if people wanted to copy it, it would be easier for them to do so. Choices choices… thanks monte!
@@BitnerBuilt You might consider aluminum angle. You can make your connections with low temperature aluminum welding rods. No welding skills necessary. All you need is the rods and a propane torch. Heat the aluminum, touch the rod to the joint, and watch it melt. The process is very similar to soldering, but less skill needed because there's no worry about leaks. Rods are available at Harbor Freight and home centers.
This Delta table saw has been everything I've needed it to be, and I especially like its mobility. I feel bad for folks who buy a huge cabinet saw and then can't move it around when they need to. The plywood in the extended bars would add a bit of friction to sliding large pieces across it. You're right MDF might have been better... My pet peeve is the dust collection with this saw. I always make a mess when I use it, even with the dust collector sucking up everything it can out of the 2.5" port.
Yea it definitely is a great saw for the price, I have to move this almost daily during my xmas season as I need to get the folding attic ladder down. I recommend enclosing the bottom like I did, it really keeps the dust under control funneling it
@@BitnerBuilt enclosing the bottom will be one of my next projects. Working on one of those wooden seashells with the bandsaw and scroll saw at the moment.
I bought the saw same but in the Ridgid brand R4560 for $399.00. Everyone in the reviews said how hard it was to get the fence mounted. Took me about 20 mins to get it. Put both on pieces of angle iron and have all the bolts in place but loose. Clamp a length of 1" square stock on to both pieces making it one long straight piece. from there its a cakewalk.
Nice saw setup! I really like the Delta fence system and wanted the 52", but it would not fit in my shop (well, it would, but have left no room - LOL). I added the 36-T30 T4 to my old Craftsman 113 (with 4 extra cast wings, including a router table extension). I modified my install to get 10" left and 36.5" right cut abilities... plenty for my needs and ability to make all but the largest of cabinets. I highly recommend looking at the Jessem table saw clear-cut TS stock guides... they are worth every penny IMHO and mount perfectly on the fence.
I have the same saw , I will make some of these mods to it ! Also , the dewalt stealth sonic shop vases are amazingly quiet ! Thats what I have hooked to mine.
Great video. Thanks for sharing all of your mods. I just got the Ridgid clone of this saw and was looking for ideas to contain the dust, especially on the bottom.
I have the Delta 36-5000T2, the slightly bigger brother. I only have the 36" capacity as I can't fit the bigger capacity. I love it, but it's too short as I'm 6ft2, I'll be fixing that soon. One of the main differences is it comes with an extra sheet steel insert on the right side so no spreader bar. Second, it has vastly improved dust collection with a good chute covering thr blade on the underside, no dust falling to the floor. And third, the rail is 1 peice vs the 725s original 2 piece rail. And fourth, a beefer, better fence. I'd honestly suggest the upgrade to it over the 725, it's only about 300 more. Worth it. Love it. But great video! I'll be building a riser box to bring mine up another 2inches. Right side is where my dust bin is. I have a full 1hp dust collector in my outfeed table.
Very cool! I would love to see a picture of your riser box build when you’re done! And I would contemplate getting this one, if I didn’t have my eyes on some other super expensive shined toy 😉
@Bitner Built Woodworking I considered other table saws and honestly for what I do, the value isn't there. I'm a hobbyist that's been at this for 25yrs, I'm not a production shop and I don't have employees. I'd rather spend the money on jessem stock guides and magswitch featherboards vs a sawstop.
@@MrCypherdiaz completely agree, and wouldn’t argue at all, I do have that little voice in the back of my head all the time they’re saying it would really suck to cut my fingers off, you can be as careful and as diligent as you can be, but it only takes one . And as somebody who visits the emergency room regularly…. Odds aren’t in my favor!
@Bitner Built Woodworking I've had tons of close calls but every time my push sticks take the damage. Just had to replace my gripper cause a board split once the cut had released enough tension. This pulled the gripper into the blade right before chucking it past me. Nice dent in the wall and scary but no damage to me. I think the sawstop gives too much security where one becomes complacent. Personal opinion. Proper safety practices matter more. All that said, I wouldn't say no if someone wanted to give me one of those King or Grizzly sliding panel saws. Cause yaknow, goals! Lol
@@MrCypherdiaz hahaha yea those are 🤩 so there is another opinion to consider. As you become very skilled in something that you’ve done repeatedly again, and again, and again, and again, things become second nature, and you can do them almost without thinking. I use one of the businesses that I own, for example. I have an employee that go up on the roofs all day long and so there’s an incredible amount of safety precautions that have to be taken, safety tools, Safty ropes, etc. techniques are learned and you become more and more comfortable up on that roof because you’re doing everything correctly and following the safety rules. My best and longest employed worker and I were up on the roof doing everything completely correct when a shingle that he was standing on, ripped out and gave away and he was then dangling off the side of a three-story roof in a split second. Luckily, he was wearing his safety rope and harness, so he didn’t die but he was injured. He had done this maneuver correctly 1000 times, but it was that unforeseen thing that happened that one time that did injur him. So I totally agree people can become more complacent however, its that one unforeseen thing that could be a disaster. If there’s an option to avoid, I would take it.
I have a ubiquitous Craftsman 13.xxxx. I made a four sided mitered funnel inside it. I used hasps to be able to stick each piece inside and clip it together. I used cardboard and some recycled rubber sheets to quickly make a flap for the motor/belt on the back. Did not try to seal it but I do not have to vacuum all over under and around the saw anymore. Dust collector moves 900 CFM which seems to be enough air to overcome the smaller small gaps like the metal bridges/webbing. I see people spray foam but I can’t justify caking it with yellow foam.
Nice thanks for sharing! I would never be able to put the spray foam inside a power tool as well that’s why I use that pipe insulation foam because it’s not porous, but it’s very flexible and can fill in the gaps
Good ideas you pointed out on the table saw that many new woodworkers fail to adhere to as the table saw is the most danger in a shop to operate dust and chips as well. I hope Safety is important to those who follow you. Looking forward to seeing what else you have to inform us about. Thanks
Thanks Larry! safety in the shops a big one for me always. So everyone will get a healthy reminder of that watching my channel! I have a frequent flyer, guest pass to the emergency room. I was with some friends the other day and letting them know I had a laser engraver I was going to install, they laughed and said this guy breaks his thumb with a ball on a string, who thought it was a good idea to give him a deadly, deadly laser! 😂 thanks for watching!
I know people keep saying that the table saw is the most dangerous tool in a shop but I can't agree. I can agree that if someone goes wrong that the table saw will do alot of damage in a hurry. But I've seen alot more injuries with tools that "appear safer" and thus give a false sense of security. Nothing like slipping a knuckle into a table top disc sander and finding out that 60 grit paper does not give a hoot if it's asked to remove flesh or wood, it's gonna remove both quickly. But it was just a sander! Also, a close friend has a nice scar on his face from faceplanting his thankfully powered off table saw. The cause? Disorder in his shop caused him to trip on something and wham, the exposed blade of the uncovered table saw was there to "catch him". I have tiny humans in my house, I have a small simple box that I use to cover the exposed saw blade when not in use ( or I lower it). The most profound safety advice I have ever got was from a friend whose day job is maintaining the nuclear power plant on navy ships. He said "The day you think you are too good for the safety checklist is the day you create a life ending light show". Kinda stuck with me. Stay safe out there.
I have the same saw and now I have many ideas to improve the shop once I have the house finally build :) I did notice one thing about your under table dust collection. If you seal it too completely then you have a vacuum under the blade, but not much air flow. There needs to be a lot of air flow there to carry the dust away, maybe open some slots near the border under the table to allow air to flow and sweep the dust away from the blade and down through the funnel. It may also help lower the buildup on the corner surfaces inside too.
Thanks! Oh trust me there’s gaps everywhere lol for the air to pull. I have actually been debating raising the bottom plate higher, the smaller that cavity under the saw is the more powerful the suction will be (barring airflow like you correctly point out) something to think on when you build yours! Have fun with it!
I have an earlier Delta Contractor Saw 34-445 that I got it from a neighbor, and the blade guard assembly was missing. What I got uses the riving knife mount . It is a Guard Assembly w/Separator (Part# N436623) for a Dewalt DWE7485 Contractor Saw for $36.80 + shipping. It did require some minor metal cutting, but works great, and has a port on it if you want to add vacuum. And for my dust collection I use a bucket vac, to make it quieter I used the router speed control from Harbor Freight. I get the vacuum I need and since it runs slower as needed, it's also quieter running.
Loving the vids and you’ve really made that saw just as good as saws 3x the price. If I had to do it again I would have bought my Oneida Supercell first! It is THE best tool I’ve bought. Every tool and every port instantly improved. Being a vertically oriented DC it took very little space. I actually gave my shop vac away because they are that good even with 2.5” hoses and gained space.
Thanks yea that saw with upgrades will last most hobbyists their entire lives! I always say the money coming in would dictate the more expensive stuff. Oh well yes! the mack daddy of dust collectors would be fantastic! That thing being able to go 100ft would destroy dust in my 25 foot shop. did you un the metal quick connect duct work? I need to hurry to 100k subs and hope for them to give me a call lol
@@BitnerBuilt I have clean shop OCD and hate pipes running all over. I have one 4” 25 foot hose I take from tool to tool as needed and another 2.5” 25 foot I use to clean my shop. It works great!
Justin, check out the Penn State overarm guard for that style (should be much more rigid), and the Shark Guard for one that is fixed to the blade mechanicals (& removable). I have the Shark Guard and it is very effective & safe. It does require manual adjustment of the splitter when you change the blade height for many saws, like my old Powermatic 62A Artisan contractor style (very solid, has stayed in perfect tune for 30 years). With the 2 1/2" blade guard connection and a 4" hose underneath (built-in dust shroud that I've further enclosed) I get almost no exterior dust. BTW, I made my 52" TS extension out of laminated countertop. Slides very smoothly.
Thanks for all the tips RY! At this point, I am obsessively, determined to make it a DIY solution, to my own detriment 😂 I actually bought the laminated top that they sell for this saw specifically originally, five times I ordered it and five times it came in damaged, so at the time that kind of turned me off from laminated press board but you’re totally right laminated is a great slick surface for side and outfeed!
@@BitnerBuilt I purchased a piece of laminated countertop in person at the big box store, did not order an OEM for delivery. Made the extension table top myself, so no issue with material.
I have a Craftsmen 3 hp 10" saw from 80's or maybe 90's with cast iron top and cast iron wings. It has a delta T fence, same as yours. I picked it up for 200$ (the fence I looked up is much more than that!). It's 30 amp though but with a regular US plug (two prongs on top and ground prong) but my outlets are all 20amp. So a good deal yes, but now I probably have to pay the same for the outlet install lol. The dust guard, I have been looking into that. I also have a dewalt job site saw 10" that's roughly 14 years old. It's a workhorse but that thing T H R O W S U P dust. I mean like you ate some rotten fish and pounded a cup of spoiled milk - instant WOOOOOOOSH. I have a Spyder blade in it for ripping and I am super ultra impressed with it. I have a CMT on others, LOVE CMT GO ORANGE!
Thanks for the tips. Dust mods although as you say not perfect gave me great ideas I hadn’t seen elsewhere. Eg the pipe insulation looks like a fantastic quick mod i’m going to do today! I thought about building a custom over arm apparatus. But I think the couple hundred bucks plus the hours spent engineering, building, testing and modifying ends up being about the same as an aftermarket. I’d enjoy it but I have other shop mods that have a higher probability of success. You’re sunk in it and can’t give up though. I get that! So, for now I’m ordering a dust collection guard that my saw’s brand happens to offer. Most brands don’t have one but I hear people modify them for other saws
Thanks for the video, I also have that saw and have been planning on under wing storage but just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I have a one car garage that is very cramped (due to exes stuff that she hasn't taken yet) so utilizing space is key. So thank you for this and your other videos, they've been helpful. Congrats on the channel success my friend! I look forward to what is to come.
I was lucky enough to find the 36-725 on Brazil's equivalent of Craigslist. It's VERY rare to find an American made contractor saw in Brazil, so when I saw I jumped on it straight away. I'll receive it tomorrow and I'm already binge watching your videos. Hopefully it was a good purchase, at least price wise I know it was good. Going to convert it to 240V (220V in Brazil) as soon as I get it. I did like the fence track extension that you bought but I'll have to come up with something similar as importing those parts from the US might cost me another saw.
Thx Justin. I was thinking of that same fix for the legs. I can deal with it for now but down the road I may do something like that. Like all the ideas you have for the table saw and may try a few of them. I did see in a Izzy Swan video where he had the router on the left side. I may do that just because my saw sits close to the wall and the router on the right side just doesn't have enough room to work on that side. I am still getting the shop set up and not sure where everything will go. Thanks again for the info. Keep up the great videos.
Yeah, you’re right a lot of people put it on the other side too and, I guess I just never think about that because I have the extension wing on mine. Good luck with the height!
Awesome video. I have the exact same saw and have been trying to think of mods to make it better. I’m stealing a lot of your ideas. Lol Keep up the great content!!
Ive discovered that if i leave the blade height gap open, i get much better dust collection as it pulls the air fastest from the front, and helps keep dust off of my front trunion, bevel rod, and height raising rod.
What would be some other budget friendly router tables that would be great for this saw? The Kobalt isn’t a bad one but I’m not 100% sure in it. Great ideas on the longer fence and dust collection!
Honestly you can grab a static manual plate and lift off Temu now I have not tried any BUT it’s a flat piece of plexi/ composite/aluminum so should be fine!
I have this saw. I haven't done anything for additional dust collection other than drilling some holes around the front side of the zero clearance insert and I have no issue with excess dust. I think the best thing you can do for dust control is have your fence properly aligned. You should not be getting dust thrown up by the back of the blade.
Great video, I have the latest version of this saw. The dust collection is the only issue I have for the price. What if you attach the overhead box to the top of your fence? Make it adjustable both ways for various thickness materials. Another thought I had was using rubber gasket instead of tape.
Thanks! I have thought about that and somebody else mentioned it in a comment so I did a little playing with that, my concern is that it could put undue stress on the fence overtime being that that box is so heavy. I think I might try bracing the pole that’s coming down from the ceiling. Somebody had mentioned that and it keeps coming back in my head is a good idea, so putting diagonal attachments from it in different directions but great suggestions!
I cut the four metal tubes one the saw box down to lower the saw because I wanted to keep the mobile base. And if you take off the front piece of foam you’ll get more dust collection and nothing will come out of the front. A totally closed system doesn’t allow air to flow. There’s a Company called Shark gaurds that sell after market blade guards. There pricy but nice. Have a good one
Use 2 more drop down rods to form a pillar. If the roof attachments are fixed and the ends are linked it should eliminate motion in all directions. If there is a little wobble add a small removable weight to the bottom of the pillar since the hood is so light.
PS If 2 of the roof attachments are hinged in parallel and the third spring clips in place with a pull cord release, you can fold the retracted pillar to the roof. Drop it from the long axis of your table and the hood won't be an issue when it is folded up. Mount it to a base so it can be moved if you reposition your table later. Run the vacuum tube down the pillar.
Great thoughts Darwin thank you! When I’m done with the corner of the shop remodel I will get back to the table saw area so this will be fun to try out. Appreciate it!
Hey Justin, Great video as always. I have the 36-725T2 and I have to say the dust collection on it is HORRIBLE. I have seen videos on other channels with the original 725 and thought I was missing parts because the dust collection is far superior on the older model. The T2 is wide open on the sides and back of the motor cavity, and only the front is covered to account for the angle adjustment. Its almost laughable at the lack of effort they put into it. There is a small attempt at making a funnel around the blade, which has a similar dust chute to the original but nothing is enclosed. I have been all over different forums looking for ideas to improve it, but ultimately I think I will need to build some type of enclosure, where I removed the current legs and inset the saw similar to the way you described a solution for Spencer. This will at least give me the ability to have some type of outfeed built in as well. Possibly looking at building a bench where a fold down miter saw station can be built in as well.
Thanks Bryan! Oooo yea…. Honestly, I was really baffled when I first brought the saw home and it just dumped everything on the floor. I’m like am I just supposed to duck tape a garbage bag under here?!? I think you’re on the right track if you make some sort of station that you set the saw in, then you can give it added, modularity and enclosure for being able to collect the sawdust. I’m sure you’ll actually even be able to get more suction in that scenario than what I’ve been able to get compared to that really complicated set up inside my saw (looks simple, but getting all that stuff positioned inside the saw was a pain) would love to see pictures after you make it!
I have that saw, and hate the cleanup. Will definitely have to adapt some of the undercarriage mods. I am building a router insert for the end. Every one I have seen shows the operation from the end, rather than the same face as the saw use. Are there drawbacks to working on the same side as you would saw? I bought a separate fence. I’m 5’6, so I can appreciate wanting the saw lower. Think I will skip it after your insight 🧐
Interesting video. Love the ideas you came up with. Ever considered getting rid of the factory legs / caster system? Personally I am not a fan of the factory setup. I want to build a mobile cart and integrate a router into mine.
@@DanielTaylor-hn4ut well it’s been a progression, I’m at like step 7 now on it so yes could have totally remade it. In fact, I’ve been debating replacing the top of my outfeed table assembly table, but I didn’t want it to get taller than the saw, so making the saw slightly taller with a cart that it lives on would be a good solution.
I have the same saw and as far as dust collection, I put an adapter on the dust shoot up to 4" and run a 4' flex hose to my Harbor Freight dust collector and I get no dust out the bottom and get hardly any dust out the top.
, Well, that’s great that it works for you that well! I have the exact same as collector, and it definitely does not do that with me. I actually have it hooked up to the dust collector and a shop back at the same time, and mostly the dust.
I have a video on it, it’s a folding table from Home Depot I remove the legs from Easy Build! Folding Extension Wing / Folding Table th-cam.com/video/Zuy0Bjh13Vw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! And I’m still in the modification phase of all of that so I’ve just been temporarily wrapping them. I honestly think I’m going to take an entire branch of it off that goes to the band saw and just wheel the bandsaw closer to the dust collector when in use. I don’t have a great collector atm so I think the excessive ducting is too much.
Is there a reason you couldn't put much longer bristles on the perimeter of the dust hood? It wouldn't be perfect from a sealing standpoint, but it would allow you to keep the frame of the hood above the blade.
I didn’t think of that however pushing on the bristles still moves the unit so still have to stabilize it more. I have had some great suggestions I will be trying out soon!
Best thing i did was build a table and get rid of the legged base. I have my saw mounted via the table, and the rest hangs. This allows me the ability to build a frame inside the saw frame and seals everything off much better.
This might be a dumb question, but did you say that you use a magnetic shelf to store your magnetic digital angle finder? Is there a reason you can’t just use the magnet on the angle finder to store it on the saw?
@Bitner Built Woodworking only if you slde the push stick through along the tabletop. Also, since I made the original comment, it would just be as easy to make a hinged system to your fence tray and dust cover since your using flexible hose that drops down from the ceiling.
@@randyfraser1608 I would worry about it. The force is exerted on the fence, and might have to look at making a much thinner and lighter version of the guard, as it is now it’s very heavy, and I feel it would negatively impact the fence applying that weight to it overtime but super great ideas!
I'm not saying to attach it to fence, I'm saying attach it to the fence tray with a few pieces of scrap wood, so the dust collector doesn't wiggle into the saw blade. You could even leave the pole on to support the weight of the collector fully.
@@randyfraser1608 ahhhh ok got ya now. I was just envisioning putting two strips of metal going from the enclosure to the box with a wingnut so that it’s easy to tighten and adjust as you move the fence sliding back-and-forth in the metal strip. But then I was just thinking this piece would have to be incredibly long if I want to still have full range of my tablesaw fence, if I move the fence 48 inches away, for example.
Regarding the Kobalt router table. I had it installed on mine for a while. It does install pretty easily, but I removed it for a couple reasons. It is a thin casting and the miter slot is smaller than the one on the table saw. I wanted to be able to use the same, higher quality, miter gauge I bought for the saw. That was the biggest thing. I also wasn't thrilled with the fence on it. I'm deciding whether I want to build a lift into my outfeed table or bet a better one to put into the saw. Probably the Bosch seems best and not a ton more money. That's just my 2 cents.
Thanks Rex, yeah, I ended up going with an expensive Kreg router lift, I just found it so uncanny that the cobalt installed so easy that I wanted to share it out. Definitely not the most high-end unit.
Unfortunately no I modded it before I started the TH-cam channel. The longer rails are literally the exact same screw pattern you put them on the same as the shorter ones- they are out of stock on Amazon but are for sale on home depot.com
If anyone wants a new or longer fence rail on the cheap, just remember it's just angle iron and square tube. You can buy it all day at the big box stores for cheap and buy a stick-on tape for the measurement.
Hey build looks great! I've been thinking about doing something similar myself, but quick question. I'm worried that when I push on the blue foot lever to tilt the saw onto the casters, the far casters under the wing will lever up and push the wing out of alignment. Have you had issues with this?
I would say most likely no. I move my table saw around ALOT! And it does need its squareness checked every so often. I would more attribute that one to the changing of the seasons, then movement, but I’m sure contributes some but I’m not seeing any major movement in the unit at all when I do have to tune it up.
I have an old 34-440 Model 10 saw and it came with a Biesemeyer fence, an extended table on the right side and it moves on a steel frame. The wheel "list" is on the right side of the saw so it's under the table which leaves adding stuff to it hard to do. I didnt think about adding a new one on the left side of the base. Wheels are turning!
This system doesn't make sense to me. Like you, I have a high flow low suction bag filter, and a low flow high suction shop vac. I use my 2" shop vac system for smaller tool dust collection, and plumb my larger pipe 4-5-6" system to tools that throw a lot of chips (cabinet saw, planer, etc.). Your shop vac can pull nearly 100" WC (water column) of suction--making it ideal for high suction and lower CFM. Your bag filter will pull something like 800 CFM at a much lower suction (2-4" WC). But, this system will need sufficient holes at the end to open a channel for the air and chips to make it to your dust collector. (Sucking on an unplugged straw.) I have liked and subscribed. As a fellow "plastic spoon" woodworker, I avoid throwing money at operational challenges in my shop. We are all on a journey as makers. Helping each other on that journey is one of our highest virtues.
Oh there’s still tons and tons of air flow vents and the foam I’m using still has perforations, it’s certainly not air tight. the idea is to more focus where that air flow is coming from. A good example is a miter saw enclosure, if you put a 4in hose just there next to the saw, no dice, so you channel that suction to several key points to be more effective.
So drill you little hole in the box, epoxy a rubber cone-tipped air blower nozzle into the hole so that the air hose fitting is sticking out. Every now and then, hook up an air hose to it, drape a big canvas drop cloth over the whole thing, kick on the dust collector and blow it out. Just grab the air nozzle from outside of the drop cloth. Let the dust collector run for a few minutes after to clear the air under it, pack up the drape cloth and sweep up any thing that settles.
That is definitely the right way to do it. I have four rolls sitting in the garage now, just so much to do all the time I had use electrical tape when I was heavily modifying the whole system and testing things with the wind speed meter, taking things on and off. I have just been lazy and haven’t taken it off to put on the proper tape!
No, at one time I thought it did but it was the riving knife coming out of alignment, was a 10 second fix to tighten the bolt on the arbor to realign. That’s prob the cause for a lot of people
@@BitnerBuilt I have a dewalt dws7491 built into a large assembly table, but I'm wanting more precision. Thinking about selling it and maybe going with the delta.
@@Ekrindulwhile there are much more high end options (way more $$), for the price your going to see a huge difference in comparison to your current saw and will be very happy with it. Especially at the price
@@BitnerBuilt That seems to be the sentiment I've seen with owners who have had both saws. Plus, I can recoup some cost selling the dewalt. No shortage of contractors in DFW area willing to buy used.
@@Ekrindul definitely, I actually get companies wanting to send me contractor saws a lot and once you go to an actual cast-iron table saw, it’s hard to look objectively at the contractor ones because there’s just such a huge difference in the quality you’re gonna get. I totally understand why especially with weight the contractor saw are made the way they are, but it’s just so much nicer 😀
with any dust collection, along with directing air where you need it, you must have make-up air. too much restriction of air flow diminishes the effectiveness. You need enough capture velocity to pull the dust into the system.
Your totally right but there is definitely still more than enough air ingress to the system to move the material, the goal was to focus it and containment so the airflow would produce results. If you just put an active hose in a large open cavity the results will be next to nothing, but if that cavity is confined you will pull floating air particles and funnel the settled dust
I have it all listed in the description. Here's the link but it seems currently unavailable on amazon, you can always go a search for it amzn.to/41QhXVD
Yo boss why don’t you try your hanging dust shield with the hose port on the side facing the fence and bring your hose over the fence with some kind of hose mount on the fence so if you have a flexible hose it will expand and retract as you move your fence I have this saw as well and I’m currently mid process on my mobile bench/tablesaw cabinet and have been very actively designing features like this in my head while I form up the table. Could be a solution could be a bust. Worth a go if you get to do it before I do let me know 🤙🤙🤙 Ps I bought a 8’ / 2” square tube and the 1 1/2” & 2” angle in 8 ft as well and the rails run the full length of the plywood on top of the table. I cut a 1” strip of wood and clamped the angle and square tube then welded them together at the bottom so the front rail is 1 piece now instead of the angle and tube separate but bolted together where if it’s not just right you can get sag.
@@BitnerBuilt you could go so far as to use like an auto detailing nozzle mounted on your fence aimed right where the dust shoots off and it should catch it all
You asked, so I promise it’s not trying to advertise my instagram, I am legitimately building a table saw station within the next few months as part of a larger crazy workbench project. I have a SketchUp build on there for one of my recent videos and it breaks down some of the features and ideas I’m trying to integrate. I would love to chat about the plans I have to sanity check my observations over the past year with my same saw. Thanks!
good build. I think people are way to anal about dust collection. Its wood. I also am a 3rd. gen. arborist. The sawdust is part of the job. it cleans up easy. routing all kinds of pipes and all that crap in my opinion is a waste of time and money. Best thing i ever did is buy a remote shop vac. mounted it to the ceiling has 20 ft. hose just stick it to what ever I'm using . no fuse no muse. I a big fan of the kiss method. keep up the good work.
September 2024 and fence still not available. 14:17 I think guards are ridiculous. They sure look it. All of that cardboard funnel inside and all just looks overkill. I guess it's all good food for thought though.
do you mean the rails? Sorry would have assumed they would have restocked amazon at some point. Just did a google search and They are selling them on Home Depot at this link www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-52-in-Rails-for-5000-Series-Saws-36-T52T4/322584852
@@BitnerBuilt I saw that site along with a group of copy cat websites like toolpartspro and they all have horrible Better Business Bureau reviews with no responses late deliveries incorrect parts etc. ereplacementparts have a customer review of 1.5 stars. Not really a company to trust with your cc info
I have the same table saw, and I'm off work tomorrow, so I'm building the shelf you put under the saw. That is genius.
Thanks! It’s pretty much made for it already, no need to drill just build and crew in place
First time on your channel and I like what I see. I'm here because I just bought a used 36-735. You mentioning that the table saw just dropped the dust on the floor reminded me of my father. 1960's, Craftsman belt drive. He built a stand for it and the dust dropped into a drawer. The drawer was emptied into the compost pile. How times have changed.
Thank you for your effort. I understand more than most how much work goes into a video like this. It doesn't just jump out of the camera to TH-cam... I edit for my wife ;)
Thanks a lot! You have a do take some time, every time I’m working on a project. I have to debate if I’m gonna film it or not because it’ll take five times as long!
I recently purchased from Lowes ($200 off due to small scratch on one of the table legs. One little spray of matching paint... no more scratch) the DELTA Contractor saw 10-in 15-Amp Contractor Table Saw with Fixed Stand, Model #36-725T2. Thank you for the great new ideas especially dust collection. 👍 I'm in the process of talking with Delta engineers on upgrading to a 240V motor.
Oh wow that’s an awesome deal. Good job you! Glad I could give you some ideas!
Any word on the 240 conversion?
50+ years at the trade, my first time on your channel. Many practical and proven hacks and concepts here, and GREAT video presentation! With your fresh analytical approach, candor and humility, you are on your way to a wonderful and creative woodworking life. As for your overhead dust collection solution, you can replicate the cantilevered boom arm of the commercial models with gussetted plywood construction or with a nominal amount of T-slot extrusion and fittings, such as made by 80/20. If you do so and create a robust and rigid enough structure, consider adding pressure rollers to the hood assembly, thereby harvesting a second very useful functionality from your investment of time and money in the boom. Subscribed; never too old to keep learning.
Great ideas thank you!
Just ran across you video. Very informative. I have had a Q10 for about 20+ years that i have used pretty regularly when I was a 9-5 guy my dut collection is very similar to yours. Made mine out of left over ductwork, same for the opening for height adjustment. A strong magnet holds that in place. I'll be retiring from driving in a few months and then looking forward toa lot more shop time.
One other thing about dust collection is to always run the collector for a bit after shutting the saw off. This will lessen the chance of dust getting into the motor
Great tips thank Ed
Thanks for this excellent walk-through. The Kobalt router table info is a great tip!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for taking time to make this video! I’m currently bouncing back & forth between this exact Delta table saw & the SawStop jobsite pro table saw… this has been super informative. 👍🏼
No prob! Yeah, that’s a really tough decision. I personally am very interested in sawstops for myself however, I’m not a fan of jobsite saws at all. I haven’t gotten to play with a sawstops job site so I can’t speak to it directly. Tough decision!
Ge this delta if it's for a workshop. Get the sawstop jobsite if you're a contractor and travel with your saw.
Your customer dust collection over the blade is an awesome idea. To keep it from moving you could come off the side of the pole that lowered it with something that could adjust and a magswitch to the table.
Ah a mag switch isn’t something anyone else has said! Thanks that’s a cool idea to think on!
Brilliant review and extremely helpfull regarding setting up. l just bought one and l am really happy with it. Did a ton of research before the purchase, it was the rack and pinion fence that swung it for me.
Thanks very much! Have fun with it!
I have the Delta 36-725T2 model that I managed to get in a clearance sale in lowe’s here in Canada. Very happy because I only paid $600 CDN ($450 US) for it last year.
Your video gave me a few good ideas on how to improve the dust collection, and storage.
Unfortunately, I seem to happen having the same issue as “Spencer”, short guy here (5’6”). It’s crazy but the sawstop seems to be at a more comfortable height… but also unfortunately, I don’t have the money to make such investment.
I hear you on the saw stop money thing I have wanted one for a long time and even asked one xmas for everyone to just give me money towards it but oomph it’s pricey and if I’m goi g to big spend I don’t want a bottom of the line one. Want the full sled etc. glad i was able to give you some ideas!
I just bought the sister saw from ridgid, I’m super excited about these ideas.
Hope you enjoy it!
I got the Delta 36-725t2 this week at Lowe's and I found the 52in rails from Home Depot. The rails said they're for the 5000 series saw but reviews said they'll fit. The page also said it couldn't be ordered alone but it still came! Your Amazon link threw me for a loop because the product name says its 30in rails but now I see the product dimensions say 62in long. Oh well! Could have saved $25. Looking forward to finishing the setup this weekend. I just got it turned over last night.
Oh nice! Good luck with it!
Great video showing tips on making the Delta saw more functional. I just bought this saw and am almost complete with the assembly. I learned quite a few good tips that I'm going to incorporate into my saw from this video. I love the idea of using all of the usable space under the saw and modifying the dust collection. I'm now a new subscriber to your channel and look forward to seeing more helpful videos. Stay safe and keep doing what you love.
Awesome! It really is a decent saw that’s gonna last year for very long time
👍👍 My table saw is a very modified vintage (aka early 60’s) Craftsman my dust collection system is a bit different letting the heavier chips fall in a box under the saw then only the lighter dust into the dust collector (not a shop vacuum) works very good, not sealed to maintain a high CFM needed for good dust collection, still looking at overhead collection.
For your overhead swing arm look at 3/4” or 1” ent conduit (electrical) an electrician could bend it for you.
High pressure laminate (Formica) makes a smooth slick surface for extension tables.
My new shop is about 600 sq foot I know it will not be larger enough when I finely get moved in, 8 months without a shop.
I’ve been woodworking for 50+ years and still learning continuously. Wish I’d taken dust collection seriously earlier!
Oomph 8 months without! Thanks for sharing and yes the electrical conduit I’ve looked at. I’ve mentioned a couple times on here. I don’t know how to weld and I’m actually debating using that as my testing grounds for learning off the big thing that I missing with the overhead Dust collection is rigidity. But at the same time for the channel, I kind of like being able to just mod some thing existing so if people wanted to copy it, it would be easier for them to do so. Choices choices… thanks monte!
@@BitnerBuilt You might consider aluminum angle. You can make your connections with low temperature aluminum welding rods. No welding skills necessary. All you need is the rods and a propane torch.
Heat the aluminum, touch the rod to the joint, and watch it melt. The process is very similar to soldering, but less skill needed because there's no worry about leaks.
Rods are available at Harbor Freight and home centers.
@@ST-0311 excellent suggestion! I will look into it!
This Delta table saw has been everything I've needed it to be, and I especially like its mobility. I feel bad for folks who buy a huge cabinet saw and then can't move it around when they need to.
The plywood in the extended bars would add a bit of friction to sliding large pieces across it. You're right MDF might have been better...
My pet peeve is the dust collection with this saw. I always make a mess when I use it, even with the dust collector sucking up everything it can out of the 2.5" port.
Yea it definitely is a great saw for the price, I have to move this almost daily during my xmas season as I need to get the folding attic ladder down. I recommend enclosing the bottom like I did, it really keeps the dust under control funneling it
@@BitnerBuilt enclosing the bottom will be one of my next projects. Working on one of those wooden seashells with the bandsaw and scroll saw at the moment.
I bought the saw same but in the Ridgid brand R4560 for $399.00. Everyone in the reviews said how hard it was to get the fence mounted. Took me about 20 mins to get it. Put both on pieces of angle iron and have all the bolts in place but loose. Clamp a length of 1" square stock on to both pieces making it one long straight piece. from there its a cakewalk.
Work smarter not harder 👍
Great video!! I just bought that table saw, and will incorporate you upgrades.
Thanks! It’s a great saw
take a look at shark guard for your blade cover - I bought one for my old General table saw and love it. The dust collection is fantastic
Yes, somebody else had mentioned that one, it looks pretty nice!
I just seen your Videos and I’m binging them, so much useful information, good job on the video production and the tips 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Nice saw setup!
I really like the Delta fence system and wanted the 52", but it would not fit in my shop (well, it would, but have left no room - LOL). I added the 36-T30 T4 to my old Craftsman 113 (with 4 extra cast wings, including a router table extension). I modified my install to get 10" left and 36.5" right cut abilities... plenty for my needs and ability to make all but the largest of cabinets.
I highly recommend looking at the Jessem table saw clear-cut TS stock guides... they are worth every penny IMHO and mount perfectly on the fence.
Nice set up! I have looked at those jessem guides many times and they are on my xmas wish list 😅
I have the same saw , I will make some of these mods to it ! Also , the dewalt stealth sonic shop vases are amazingly quiet ! Thats what I have hooked to mine.
I have one of those hooked to my cnc machine to keep the noise down! Have fun with the mods!
Great video. Thanks for sharing all of your mods. I just got the Ridgid clone of this saw and was looking for ideas to contain the dust, especially on the bottom.
Thanks! Glad glad glad you fed it helpful!
I have the Delta 36-5000T2, the slightly bigger brother. I only have the 36" capacity as I can't fit the bigger capacity.
I love it, but it's too short as I'm 6ft2, I'll be fixing that soon.
One of the main differences is it comes with an extra sheet steel insert on the right side so no spreader bar. Second, it has vastly improved dust collection with a good chute covering thr blade on the underside, no dust falling to the floor. And third, the rail is 1 peice vs the 725s original 2 piece rail. And fourth, a beefer, better fence. I'd honestly suggest the upgrade to it over the 725, it's only about 300 more. Worth it. Love it.
But great video!
I'll be building a riser box to bring mine up another 2inches. Right side is where my dust bin is. I have a full 1hp dust collector in my outfeed table.
Very cool! I would love to see a picture of your riser box build when you’re done! And I would contemplate getting this one, if I didn’t have my eyes on some other super expensive shined toy 😉
@Bitner Built Woodworking I considered other table saws and honestly for what I do, the value isn't there. I'm a hobbyist that's been at this for 25yrs, I'm not a production shop and I don't have employees. I'd rather spend the money on jessem stock guides and magswitch featherboards vs a sawstop.
@@MrCypherdiaz completely agree, and wouldn’t argue at all, I do have that little voice in the back of my head all the time they’re saying it would really suck to cut my fingers off, you can be as careful and as diligent as you can be, but it only takes one . And as somebody who visits the emergency room regularly…. Odds aren’t in my favor!
@Bitner Built Woodworking I've had tons of close calls but every time my push sticks take the damage. Just had to replace my gripper cause a board split once the cut had released enough tension. This pulled the gripper into the blade right before chucking it past me. Nice dent in the wall and scary but no damage to me.
I think the sawstop gives too much security where one becomes complacent. Personal opinion. Proper safety practices matter more.
All that said, I wouldn't say no if someone wanted to give me one of those King or Grizzly sliding panel saws. Cause yaknow, goals! Lol
@@MrCypherdiaz hahaha yea those are 🤩 so there is another opinion to consider. As you become very skilled in something that you’ve done repeatedly again, and again, and again, and again, things become second nature, and you can do them almost without thinking. I use one of the businesses that I own, for example. I have an employee that go up on the roofs all day long and so there’s an incredible amount of safety precautions that have to be taken, safety tools, Safty ropes, etc. techniques are learned and you become more and more comfortable up on that roof because you’re doing everything correctly and following the safety rules. My best and longest employed worker and I were up on the roof doing everything completely correct when a shingle that he was standing on, ripped out and gave away and he was then dangling off the side of a three-story roof in a split second. Luckily, he was wearing his safety rope and harness, so he didn’t die but he was injured. He had done this maneuver correctly 1000 times, but it was that unforeseen thing that happened that one time that did injur him. So I totally agree people can become more complacent however, its that one unforeseen thing that could be a disaster. If there’s an option to avoid, I would take it.
I have a ubiquitous Craftsman 13.xxxx. I made a four sided mitered funnel inside it. I used hasps to be able to stick each piece inside and clip it together. I used cardboard and some recycled rubber sheets to quickly make a flap for the motor/belt on the back. Did not try to seal it but I do not have to vacuum all over under and around the saw anymore. Dust collector moves 900 CFM which seems to be enough air to overcome the smaller small gaps like the metal bridges/webbing. I see people spray foam but I can’t justify caking it with yellow foam.
Nice thanks for sharing! I would never be able to put the spray foam inside a power tool as well that’s why I use that pipe insulation foam because it’s not porous, but it’s very flexible and can fill in the gaps
Good ideas you pointed out on the table saw that many new woodworkers fail to adhere to as the table saw is the most danger in a shop to operate dust and chips as well. I hope Safety is important to those who follow you. Looking forward to seeing what else you have to inform us about. Thanks
Thanks Larry! safety in the shops a big one for me always. So everyone will get a healthy reminder of that watching my channel! I have a frequent flyer, guest pass to the emergency room. I was with some friends the other day and letting them know I had a laser engraver I was going to install, they laughed and said this guy breaks his thumb with a ball on a string, who thought it was a good idea to give him a deadly, deadly laser! 😂 thanks for watching!
I know people keep saying that the table saw is the most dangerous tool in a shop but I can't agree. I can agree that if someone goes wrong that the table saw will do alot of damage in a hurry. But I've seen alot more injuries with tools that "appear safer" and thus give a false sense of security. Nothing like slipping a knuckle into a table top disc sander and finding out that 60 grit paper does not give a hoot if it's asked to remove flesh or wood, it's gonna remove both quickly. But it was just a sander!
Also, a close friend has a nice scar on his face from faceplanting his thankfully powered off table saw. The cause? Disorder in his shop caused him to trip on something and wham, the exposed blade of the uncovered table saw was there to "catch him". I have tiny humans in my house, I have a small simple box that I use to cover the exposed saw blade when not in use ( or I lower it).
The most profound safety advice I have ever got was from a friend whose day job is maintaining the nuclear power plant on navy ships. He said "The day you think you are too good for the safety checklist is the day you create a life ending light show". Kinda stuck with me.
Stay safe out there.
I have the same saw and now I have many ideas to improve the shop once I have the house finally build :)
I did notice one thing about your under table dust collection. If you seal it too completely then you have a vacuum under the blade, but not much air flow. There needs to be a lot of air flow there to carry the dust away, maybe open some slots near the border under the table to allow air to flow and sweep the dust away from the blade and down through the funnel. It may also help lower the buildup on the corner surfaces inside too.
Thanks! Oh trust me there’s gaps everywhere lol for the air to pull. I have actually been debating raising the bottom plate higher, the smaller that cavity under the saw is the more powerful the suction will be (barring airflow like you correctly point out) something to think on when you build yours! Have fun with it!
I have an earlier Delta Contractor Saw 34-445 that I got it from a neighbor, and the blade guard assembly was missing. What I got uses the riving knife mount . It is a Guard Assembly w/Separator (Part# N436623) for a Dewalt DWE7485 Contractor Saw for $36.80 + shipping. It did require some minor metal cutting, but works great, and has a port on it if you want to add vacuum. And for my dust collection I use a bucket vac, to make it quieter I used the router speed control from Harbor Freight. I get the vacuum I need and since it runs slower as needed, it's also quieter running.
Very cool tips!
Loving the vids and you’ve really made that saw just as good as saws 3x the price. If I had to do it again I would have bought my Oneida Supercell first! It is THE best tool I’ve bought. Every tool and every port instantly improved. Being a vertically oriented DC it took very little space. I actually gave my shop vac away because they are that good even with 2.5” hoses and gained space.
Thanks yea that saw with upgrades will last most hobbyists their entire lives! I always say the money coming in would dictate the more expensive stuff. Oh well yes! the mack daddy of dust collectors would be fantastic! That thing being able to go 100ft would destroy dust in my 25 foot shop. did you un the metal quick connect duct work? I need to hurry to 100k subs and hope for them to give me a call lol
@@BitnerBuilt I have clean shop OCD and hate pipes running all over. I have one 4” 25 foot hose I take from tool to tool as needed and another 2.5” 25 foot I use to clean my shop. It works great!
Justin, check out the Penn State overarm guard for that style (should be much more rigid), and the Shark Guard for one that is fixed to the blade mechanicals (& removable). I have the Shark Guard and it is very effective & safe. It does require manual adjustment of the splitter when you change the blade height for many saws, like my old Powermatic 62A Artisan contractor style (very solid, has stayed in perfect tune for 30 years).
With the 2 1/2" blade guard connection and a 4" hose underneath (built-in dust shroud that I've further enclosed) I get almost no exterior dust.
BTW, I made my 52" TS extension out of laminated countertop. Slides very smoothly.
Thanks for all the tips RY! At this point, I am obsessively, determined to make it a DIY solution, to my own detriment 😂 I actually bought the laminated top that they sell for this saw specifically originally, five times I ordered it and five times it came in damaged, so at the time that kind of turned me off from laminated press board but you’re totally right laminated is a great slick surface for side and outfeed!
I’ve got the Penn state ceiling mounted dust arm and it’s fantastic. I think it was $200?
@@psourial yea RY pointed it out, very nice looking. IT might be my option if I can't get the diy version to the level I want.
@@BitnerBuilt I purchased a piece of laminated countertop in person at the big box store, did not order an OEM for delivery. Made the extension table top myself, so no issue with material.
I have a Craftsmen 3 hp 10" saw from 80's or maybe 90's with cast iron top and cast iron wings. It has a delta T fence, same as yours. I picked it up for 200$ (the fence I looked up is much more than that!). It's 30 amp though but with a regular US plug (two prongs on top and ground prong) but my outlets are all 20amp. So a good deal yes, but now I probably have to pay the same for the outlet install lol.
The dust guard, I have been looking into that. I also have a dewalt job site saw 10" that's roughly 14 years old. It's a workhorse but that thing T H R O W S U P dust. I mean like you ate some rotten fish and pounded a cup of spoiled milk - instant WOOOOOOOSH. I have a Spyder blade in it for ripping and I am super ultra impressed with it. I have a CMT on others, LOVE CMT GO ORANGE!
Oh cool Next! Being able to snag a table saw with cast-iron wings for 200 bucks is a great get!
I just picked up the t2 version going to tackle the dust collection in the coming weeks
Nice!
Thanks for the tips. Dust mods although as you say not perfect gave me great ideas I hadn’t seen elsewhere. Eg the pipe insulation looks like a fantastic quick mod i’m going to do today!
I thought about building a custom over arm apparatus. But I think the couple hundred bucks plus the hours spent engineering, building, testing and modifying ends up being about the same as an aftermarket. I’d enjoy it but I have other shop mods that have a higher probability of success. You’re sunk in it and can’t give up though. I get that!
So, for now I’m ordering a dust collection guard that my saw’s brand happens to offer. Most brands don’t have one but I hear people modify them for other saws
Yep, I am in it and figure if I build a good useful way, will be a good video 😉
Thanks for the video, I also have that saw and have been planning on under wing storage but just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I have a one car garage that is very cramped (due to exes stuff that she hasn't taken yet) so utilizing space is key. So thank you for this and your other videos, they've been helpful. Congrats on the channel success my friend! I look forward to what is to come.
Thanks so much Tate! Share a photo once you do, make your custom set up!
I was lucky enough to find the 36-725 on Brazil's equivalent of Craigslist. It's VERY rare to find an American made contractor saw in Brazil, so when I saw I jumped on it straight away. I'll receive it tomorrow and I'm already binge watching your videos. Hopefully it was a good purchase, at least price wise I know it was good. Going to convert it to 240V (220V in Brazil) as soon as I get it. I did like the fence track extension that you bought but I'll have to come up with something similar as importing those parts from the US might cost me another saw.
Oh very cool you will be happy with it, for not being super expensive as saws go, well kept it will last a long time! Enjoy!
Thx Justin. I was thinking of that same fix for the legs. I can deal with it for now but down the road I may do something like that. Like all the ideas you have for the table saw and may try a few of them. I did see in a Izzy Swan video where he had the router on the left side. I may do that just because my saw sits close to the wall and the router on the right side just doesn't have enough room to work on that side. I am still getting the shop set up and not sure where everything will go. Thanks again for the info. Keep up the great videos.
Yeah, you’re right a lot of people put it on the other side too and, I guess I just never think about that because I have the extension wing on mine. Good luck with the height!
@@BitnerBuilt I had never seen that way of mounting it. Definitely gonna try it. We'll Get R Werked out. LOL
Awesome video. I have the exact same saw and have been trying to think of mods to make it better. I’m stealing a lot of your ideas. Lol
Keep up the great content!!
Nice! Steal away Seth!
I have an older late 70s delta and there is absolutely no dust collection i love the funnel underneath idea I am going to have to borrow that one.
Yea the dump the sawdust method on the floor isn’t a huge selling feature for me 😂 the funnel method will work well for you good luck with it!
Ive discovered that if i leave the blade height gap open, i get much better dust collection as it pulls the air fastest from the front, and helps keep dust off of my front trunion, bevel rod, and height raising rod.
good tip!
What would be some other budget friendly router tables that would be great for this saw? The Kobalt isn’t a bad one but I’m not 100% sure in it. Great ideas on the longer fence and dust collection!
Honestly you can grab a static manual plate and lift off Temu now I have not tried any BUT it’s a flat piece of plexi/ composite/aluminum so should be fine!
I have this saw. I haven't done anything for additional dust collection other than drilling some holes around the front side of the zero clearance insert and I have no issue with excess dust. I think the best thing you can do for dust control is have your fence properly aligned. You should not be getting dust thrown up by the back of the blade.
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Great video, I have the latest version of this saw. The dust collection is the only issue I have for the price. What if you attach the overhead box to the top of your fence? Make it adjustable both ways for various thickness materials. Another thought I had was using rubber gasket instead of tape.
Thanks! I have thought about that and somebody else mentioned it in a comment so I did a little playing with that, my concern is that it could put undue stress on the fence overtime being that that box is so heavy. I think I might try bracing the pole that’s coming down from the ceiling. Somebody had mentioned that and it keeps coming back in my head is a good idea, so putting diagonal attachments from it in different directions but great suggestions!
Try a shop vac for the overhead shroud… high pressure low CFM seems to be the way to go
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Good job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I cut the four metal tubes one the saw box down to lower the saw because I wanted to keep the mobile base. And if you take off the front piece of foam you’ll get more dust collection and nothing will come out of the front. A totally closed system doesn’t allow air to flow. There’s a Company called Shark gaurds that sell after market blade guards. There pricy but nice. Have a good one
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Use 2 more drop down rods to form a pillar. If the roof attachments are fixed and the ends are linked it should eliminate motion in all directions. If there is a little wobble add a small removable weight to the bottom of the pillar since the hood is so light.
PS If 2 of the roof attachments are hinged in parallel and the third spring clips in place with a pull cord release, you can fold the retracted pillar to the roof. Drop it from the long axis of your table and the hood won't be an issue when it is folded up. Mount it to a base so it can be moved if you reposition your table later. Run the vacuum tube down the pillar.
Great thoughts Darwin thank you! When I’m done with the corner of the shop remodel I will get back to the table saw area so this will be fun to try out. Appreciate it!
Thanks for the valuable tour! I'm curious why you decided against the overhead blade cover/dust collector made by Delta?
Thanks! It’s the same cost as the entire tablesaw (back then) so I like to have fun trying to come up with my own solutions to save the $$
Hey Justin, Great video as always. I have the 36-725T2 and I have to say the dust collection on it is HORRIBLE. I have seen videos on other channels with the original 725 and thought I was missing parts because the dust collection is far superior on the older model. The T2 is wide open on the sides and back of the motor cavity, and only the front is covered to account for the angle adjustment. Its almost laughable at the lack of effort they put into it. There is a small attempt at making a funnel around the blade, which has a similar dust chute to the original but nothing is enclosed. I have been all over different forums looking for ideas to improve it, but ultimately I think I will need to build some type of enclosure, where I removed the current legs and inset the saw similar to the way you described a solution for Spencer. This will at least give me the ability to have some type of outfeed built in as well. Possibly looking at building a bench where a fold down miter saw station can be built in as well.
Thanks Bryan! Oooo yea…. Honestly, I was really baffled when I first brought the saw home and it just dumped everything on the floor. I’m like am I just supposed to duck tape a garbage bag under here?!? I think you’re on the right track if you make some sort of station that you set the saw in, then you can give it added, modularity and enclosure for being able to collect the sawdust. I’m sure you’ll actually even be able to get more suction in that scenario than what I’ve been able to get compared to that really complicated set up inside my saw (looks simple, but getting all that stuff positioned inside the saw was a pain) would love to see pictures after you make it!
I have that saw, and hate the cleanup. Will definitely have to adapt some of the undercarriage mods.
I am building a router insert for the end. Every one I have seen shows the operation from the end, rather than the same face as the saw use. Are there drawbacks to working on the same side as you would saw? I bought a separate fence.
I’m 5’6, so I can appreciate wanting the saw lower. Think I will skip it after your insight 🧐
Thanks! So usually it’s at the end because people are using the table saw fence for both for some actions but hey you do what’s good for you 👍
Interesting video. Love the ideas you came up with. Ever considered getting rid of the factory legs / caster system? Personally I am not a fan of the factory setup. I want to build a mobile cart and integrate a router into mine.
I actually recommended it to somebody else who didn’t like the height of the table in relation to their height, i’d say go for it
@@BitnerBuilt I saw that, I was just wondering why you didn't take that route for your own project.
@@DanielTaylor-hn4ut well it’s been a progression, I’m at like step 7 now on it so yes could have totally remade it. In fact, I’ve been debating replacing the top of my outfeed table assembly table, but I didn’t want it to get taller than the saw, so making the saw slightly taller with a cart that it lives on would be a good solution.
I have the same saw and as far as dust collection, I put an adapter on the dust shoot up to 4" and run a 4' flex hose to my Harbor Freight dust collector and I get no dust out the bottom and get hardly any dust out the top.
, Well, that’s great that it works for you that well! I have the exact same as collector, and it definitely does not do that with me. I actually have it hooked up to the dust collector and a shop back at the same time, and mostly the dust.
I like the modifications you did. Where did you purchase the adjustable folding leg assembly for your folding extension wing?
I have a video on it, it’s a folding table from Home Depot I remove the legs from Easy Build! Folding Extension Wing / Folding Table
th-cam.com/video/Zuy0Bjh13Vw/w-d-xo.html
you also can seal t=your ovc joint if you do not wish to glue them.
Thanks! And I’m still in the modification phase of all of that so I’ve just been temporarily wrapping them. I honestly think I’m going to take an entire branch of it off that goes to the band saw and just wheel the bandsaw closer to the dust collector when in use. I don’t have a great collector atm so I think the excessive ducting is too much.
Is there a reason you couldn't put much longer bristles on the perimeter of the dust hood? It wouldn't be perfect from a sealing standpoint, but it would allow you to keep the frame of the hood above the blade.
I didn’t think of that however pushing on the bristles still moves the unit so still have to stabilize it more. I have had some great suggestions I will be trying out soon!
Best thing i did was build a table and get rid of the legged base.
I have my saw mounted via the table, and the rest hangs.
This allows me the ability to build a frame inside the saw frame and seals everything off much better.
Yea there are a lot of guys who do that especially if they want the height changed!
This might be a dumb question, but did you say that you use a magnetic shelf to store your magnetic digital angle finder? Is there a reason you can’t just use the magnet on the angle finder to store it on the saw?
Zero reason lol! I have a few things in the tray, but you know I never thought about it before 😅
Have you tried attaching a couple of featherboards to the fence and your overhead dust collector to keep it in place so there is no wiggle?
That’s a good idea I have not tried attaching it to the fence, if I attach it to the fence, am I still able to get a push stick through?
@Bitner Built Woodworking only if you slde the push stick through along the tabletop.
Also, since I made the original comment, it would just be as easy to make a hinged system to your fence tray and dust cover since your using flexible hose that drops down from the ceiling.
@@randyfraser1608 I would worry about it. The force is exerted on the fence, and might have to look at making a much thinner and lighter version of the guard, as it is now it’s very heavy, and I feel it would negatively impact the fence applying that weight to it overtime but super great ideas!
I'm not saying to attach it to fence, I'm saying attach it to the fence tray with a few pieces of scrap wood, so the dust collector doesn't wiggle into the saw blade. You could even leave the pole on to support the weight of the collector fully.
@@randyfraser1608 ahhhh ok got ya now. I was just envisioning putting two strips of metal going from the enclosure to the box with a wingnut so that it’s easy to tighten and adjust as you move the fence sliding back-and-forth in the metal strip. But then I was just thinking this piece would have to be incredibly long if I want to still have full range of my tablesaw fence, if I move the fence 48 inches away, for example.
Regarding the Kobalt router table. I had it installed on mine for a while. It does install pretty easily, but I removed it for a couple reasons. It is a thin casting and the miter slot is smaller than the one on the table saw. I wanted to be able to use the same, higher quality, miter gauge I bought for the saw. That was the biggest thing. I also wasn't thrilled with the fence on it. I'm deciding whether I want to build a lift into my outfeed table or bet a better one to put into the saw. Probably the Bosch seems best and not a ton more money. That's just my 2 cents.
Thanks Rex, yeah, I ended up going with an expensive Kreg router lift, I just found it so uncanny that the cobalt installed so easy that I wanted to share it out. Definitely not the most high-end unit.
Do you have a video/plan showing how you modified this saw? I just bought it, and I make a lot of cabinets and would like to get the 52" guide.
Unfortunately no I modded it before I started the TH-cam channel. The longer rails are literally the exact same screw pattern you put them on the same as the shorter ones- they are out of stock on Amazon but are for sale on home depot.com
If anyone wants a new or longer fence rail on the cheap, just remember it's just angle iron and square tube. You can buy it all day at the big box stores for cheap and buy a stick-on tape for the measurement.
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will the 52" rails for the 5000 series saw fit on the 36-725 saw or could they be modified to fit ?
I’m not sure personally on that one, maybe another viewer has tried and could respond
Hey build looks great! I've been thinking about doing something similar myself, but quick question.
I'm worried that when I push on the blue foot lever to tilt the saw onto the casters, the far casters under the wing will lever up and push the wing out of alignment.
Have you had issues with this?
I would say most likely no. I move my table saw around ALOT! And it does need its squareness checked every so often. I would more attribute that one to the changing of the seasons, then movement, but I’m sure contributes some but I’m not seeing any major movement in the unit at all when I do have to tune it up.
Watching this makes me appreciate my Dewalt even more.
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I have an old 34-440 Model 10 saw and it came with a Biesemeyer fence, an extended table on the right side and it moves on a steel frame. The wheel "list" is on the right side of the saw so it's under the table which leaves adding stuff to it hard to do. I didnt think about adding a new one on the left side of the base. Wheels are turning!
Oh very cool!
24:36 you can get longer shoe brush material.
Or fall in love with aluminum t-slot extrusion (but dont buy it from "Tnuts".
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lol the emphasis on "Destruction, Injury, Shrapnel flying in your face!!" had me laughing. I got the point though🙃. Good job.
Lol should have had one of the kids shake the camera then too for effect 😂 thanks!
This system doesn't make sense to me. Like you, I have a high flow low suction bag filter, and a low flow high suction shop vac. I use my 2" shop vac system for smaller tool dust collection, and plumb my larger pipe 4-5-6" system to tools that throw a lot of chips (cabinet saw, planer, etc.). Your shop vac can pull nearly 100" WC (water column) of suction--making it ideal for high suction and lower CFM. Your bag filter will pull something like 800 CFM at a much lower suction (2-4" WC). But, this system will need sufficient holes at the end to open a channel for the air and chips to make it to your dust collector. (Sucking on an unplugged straw.)
I have liked and subscribed. As a fellow "plastic spoon" woodworker, I avoid throwing money at operational challenges in my shop. We are all on a journey as makers. Helping each other on that journey is one of our highest virtues.
Oh there’s still tons and tons of air flow vents and the foam I’m using still has perforations, it’s certainly not air tight. the idea is to more focus where that air flow is coming from. A good example is a miter saw enclosure, if you put a 4in hose just there next to the saw, no dice, so you channel that suction to several key points to be more effective.
So drill you little hole in the box, epoxy a rubber cone-tipped air blower nozzle into the hole so that the air hose fitting is sticking out. Every now and then, hook up an air hose to it, drape a big canvas drop cloth over the whole thing, kick on the dust collector and blow it out. Just grab the air nozzle from outside of the drop cloth. Let the dust collector run for a few minutes after to clear the air under it, pack up the drape cloth and sweep up any thing that settles.
thanks for the tip!
Amazon no longer has those rails but i see other sites like home depot etc with them. I just need order one right or do i need 2.
It should just be the one set
Would the 52 in. Rails for the 5000 Series Saws work on this model as well?
Sorry but unsure I haven’t personally tried them, if it’s Amazon can always return if they don’t!
I have one too !
Nice!
you can do what I found that work with my table saw. I the air duct department you will find aluminum tape. Saw dust will not stick to the tape.
That is definitely the right way to do it. I have four rolls sitting in the garage now, just so much to do all the time I had use electrical tape when I was heavily modifying the whole system and testing things with the wind speed meter, taking things on and off. I have just been lazy and haven’t taken it off to put on the proper tape!
Great video. But my burning question is this: Who is the maker on your carpenter's apron? I want one.
It’s in the video discription in my Amazon store!
Justin, have you had any issues with deflection in the back end of the fence? I see this complaint about this saw.
No, at one time I thought it did but it was the riving knife coming out of alignment, was a 10 second fix to tighten the bolt on the arbor to realign. That’s prob the cause for a lot of people
@@BitnerBuilt I have a dewalt dws7491 built into a large assembly table, but I'm wanting more precision. Thinking about selling it and maybe going with the delta.
@@Ekrindulwhile there are much more high end options (way more $$), for the price your going to see a huge difference in comparison to your current saw and will be very happy with it. Especially at the price
@@BitnerBuilt That seems to be the sentiment I've seen with owners who have had both saws. Plus, I can recoup some cost selling the dewalt. No shortage of contractors in DFW area willing to buy used.
@@Ekrindul definitely, I actually get companies wanting to send me contractor saws a lot and once you go to an actual cast-iron table saw, it’s hard to look objectively at the contractor ones because there’s just such a huge difference in the quality you’re gonna get. I totally understand why especially with weight the contractor saw are made the way they are, but it’s just so much nicer 😀
Use three painters poles but only one with adjusting holes. Wax the poles and should work as one without all pendulum effect.
Cool idea 👍
with any dust collection, along with directing air where you need it, you must have make-up air. too much restriction of air flow diminishes the effectiveness. You need enough capture velocity to pull the dust into the system.
Your totally right but there is definitely still more than enough air ingress to the system to move the material, the goal was to focus it and containment so the airflow would produce results. If you just put an active hose in a large open cavity the results will be next to nothing, but if that cavity is confined you will pull floating air particles and funnel the settled dust
"Foam Mats" --- Try magnetic floor vent covers!
Ahhh great idea!
Hi - you had nifty table saw sled. Are there plans for your version
Hey Dan, that sled is not my design I made it years ago from another great TH-camrs video (unsure who though) Sorry!
Which fence rail extension did you buy for $125
I have it all listed in the description. Here's the link but it seems currently unavailable on amazon, you can always go a search for it amzn.to/41QhXVD
Thanks so much, I’ve looked an looked couldnt find them. Thanks again!
Yo boss why don’t you try your hanging dust shield with the hose port on the side facing the fence and bring your hose over the fence with some kind of hose mount on the fence so if you have a flexible hose it will expand and retract as you move your fence I have this saw as well and I’m currently mid process on my mobile bench/tablesaw cabinet and have been very actively designing features like this in my head while I form up the table. Could be a solution could be a bust. Worth a go if you get to do it before I do let me know 🤙🤙🤙
Ps I bought a 8’ / 2” square tube and the 1 1/2” & 2” angle in 8 ft as well and the rails run the full length of the plywood on top of the table. I cut a 1” strip of wood and clamped the angle and square tube then welded them together at the bottom so the front rail is 1 piece now instead of the angle and tube separate but bolted together where if it’s not just right you can get sag.
Very cool on the tubing! Yea I’m playing with different new ideas for the shield so I’ll play with your idea, thanks for all the tips!
@@BitnerBuilt you could go so far as to use like an auto detailing nozzle mounted on your fence aimed right where the dust shoots off and it should catch it all
You asked, so I promise it’s not trying to advertise my instagram, I am legitimately building a table saw station within the next few months as part of a larger crazy workbench project. I have a SketchUp build on there for one of my recent videos and it breaks down some of the features and ideas I’m trying to integrate. I would love to chat about the plans I have to sanity check my observations over the past year with my same saw. Thanks!
Sure shoot me an email contacts in my video discriptions
good build. I think people are way to anal about dust collection. Its wood. I also am a 3rd. gen. arborist. The sawdust is part of the job. it cleans up easy. routing all kinds of pipes and all that crap in my opinion is a waste of time and money. Best thing i ever did is buy a remote shop vac. mounted it to the ceiling has 20 ft. hose just stick it to what ever I'm using . no fuse no muse. I a big fan of the kiss method. keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Have the T2 model.
Nice
September 2024 and fence still not available. 14:17 I think guards are ridiculous. They sure look it. All of that cardboard funnel inside and all just looks overkill. I guess it's all good food for thought though.
do you mean the rails? Sorry would have assumed they would have restocked amazon at some point. Just did a google search and They are selling them on Home Depot at this link www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-52-in-Rails-for-5000-Series-Saws-36-T52T4/322584852
29:23
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Just re-engineer the laguna or harvey blad they made
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These table saws will not last a lifetime. The lift bushing holds all the weight of the motor and will wear out. No luck getting a replacement
They have replacements here www.ereplacementparts.com/evevating-bushing-p-1805017.html
@@BitnerBuilt I saw that site along with a group of copy cat websites like toolpartspro and they all have horrible Better Business Bureau reviews with no responses late deliveries incorrect parts etc. ereplacementparts have a customer review of 1.5 stars. Not really a company to trust with your cc info
Great video keep it up! From GIMPS WOODSHOP. Idaho
Thanks!