Straight to the point and without music to tell me how I should feel while watching a tutorial. Thank you so much for taking the time to share with all of us who appreciate your efforts. Cheers brother
How do you feel about the aftermarket, upper control arm assemblies available on eBay? I know my factory sway arm links (front and rear) and my ball joints are past their service limits, so I'm thinking of replacing them before they check out on me.
Excellent video. When I replaced a CV shaft on my crv recently I didn't take the brake caliper off the brake caliper bracket. I just removed the 2 brake caliper bracket bolts and removed the whole brake caliper assembly as one piece. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us DIYers.
You're right. I can't hold the camera and do the repair ... which is why I partnered up ... but then there's the video editing ... 1 hr for every minute of video!
Here in Romania, Eastern Europe, I could hardly trust a local mechanic to do such a detailed and accurate job as you did, poor car service is one reason we are the country with the most car accidents in Europe.
For anyone watching, it may be intimidating seeing all those bolts and nuts, but that's ALL THERE IS....just nuts and bolts holding the suspension together. You can do it 👍
Well done. They use a lot of salt on the roads up here in winter; so, I have a heck of a lot more rust on my 2003 then you do. Parts are also harder to remove with the rust. Information about the sway bar would have been helpful when I replaced the control arm last year. Thanks for the video.
@@hardlymovingpro - thanks for the correction - the how-to is the same. I edited my first comment so I don't confuse anyone Especially appreciated is the note about the orientation of the strut assembly!
@@hardlymovingpro 3:35 - I had to use a pickle fork to bust the ball joint out of the control arm. Impressive you were able to knock it loose with the hammer. Beat the piss out of mine and it still wouldn't budge, so off to the store..
@@hardlymovingpro it does actually. If the rubber in the bushing twists too great a distance, it will tear. That is why it is best to torque it down in the middle of the range it actuates rather than the end.
Ok ... thanks ... something to consider when I do the job again on my next Honda or Acura. To date, no complaints from the customer and he's been happy with the improved ride quality.
Don't take the tie rod off like this.Turn the steering wheel all the way in the direction that pushes the tie rod toward you, this takes the impact away from the rack and pinion. Put a big heavy hammer behind the female part of the joint and then strike the other side with a hammer. Same with the ball joint. You need the mass behind the joint to stop it from moving.
I just changed the lowers on a 2006 crv. I used one tong of a pickle fork between the knuckle and control arm to not tear the ball joint boot up and I ended up flattening the tong on the fork before that ball came loose from the taper.
Hardly Moving Productions I was using a combo of both. Fork to add some stored energy so it would pop loose easier when hammering the control arm to shake it loose as well. A harbor freight fork is apparently made of softer metal than a Honda spindle.
Hey awesome video can you please list the basic parts needed to send for alignment. Do I have to replace the whole front end? The main reason I ask is because I need to fix as soon as possible. It is wearing heavily the insides of my tires? Thank you
I need to do this on my '05 CR-V. I already did axles and ball joints, but the other suspension components still need attention. I think Complete KYB Strut Plus assemblies are the best way to go for these. I am also going to be replacing the tie rods (both inner and outer), complete front & rear sway bar assemblies with new links and bushings (the sway bars that are on the car have rusted and were painted at some point in the past by a previous mechanic and the paint is flaking off and I don't like that so I found a good used one for the front because that one has been discontinued and the rear one is available and is very inexpensive compared to most other Honda parts on this car. Haven't decided what I'm going to do about the rear trailing arms and upper control arms yet, but the upper rear control arm bushings are shot and it looks like you can only buy them as a complete assembly from Honda, and they are stupid money but based on what I've seen and researched on these it looks like new rear trailing arms may be the best option for me, as distasteful as I find it! I already overhauled the entire brake system as well as all the wheel hub & bearing assemblies, and this was in an effort to replace the brake dust shields that were completely rotted away and rattling around. That was not fun or cheap at all, but it was totally worth it! The car brakes and handles so much better now!
This was an amazing video of the process. Cudos to you and your cameraman. Can you recommend brands for each component that you swapped? Also, is there a reason you didn't change the tie rod end while you were already in there? Did you have the car aligned after the job? Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks ... appreciate your critique! The tie rod is not part of the suspension and we made this a suspension video. I usually do not replace tie rods (there's both inner and outer) unless there's too much free play in the steering wheel or the car's pulling either to the left or right. Rockauto.com is excellent parts supplier of name brand parts producers who provide good warranties. If you buy parts off of Ebay you don't know who made it and how long it's going to last. I just recently got screwed by a company called Detroit Axle. Its a long story but the bottom line is they won't honor their advertised warranty even with proof of purchase.
Thanks for the video. I see that you like to do a lot more work than what needs to be done. I don't know why you didn't junk the OEM Stabilizer Links and install new ones (with the nut). The strut definitely doesn't need to be removed. Buy yourself a screw type ball joint separator for $25. It'll save you from all of that hammering. Nice video and commentary. Definitely a great video for novices to learn from. Good job
Thanks for your critique but am confused with your analysis. Replace the stabilizer links but don't remove/replace the strut? How did you surmise the condition of these parts? Replace and/or remove ball joints for a living and I guarantee you'll throw away your ball joint separator.
The Haynes Manual says you should only loosely put the axle nut back on and tightened when the wheel is on and lowered and resting on the ground. Doesn't say why, but I followed your process and don't have a problem, but a bit unnerved. Should I be?
That's one technique but you generally don't want to place load on the axle when torquing down on the axle nut. The torque value may be on the light side.
Howdy. Is this enough power to take off and put on the struts. Impact Wrench: Up to 2,800 RPM and up to 225 ft./lbs. of breakaway torque? Before I buy it. TY kindly.
Can leaving a ball joint in a freezer help to slip it in easier as haven't got the tools here in the UK as I'm a bit of a Noob. Im planning or drilling out the old one
Yes ... that can help ... but it better to removed the old ball joint and install a new one using the proper tools. Hammering and cutting is both timing consuming and unprofessional with a questionable outcome. You can always bring the steering knuckle to automotive machine shop and have them do the work. What they may charge could be the cost of the tools you're avoiding buying.
That indentation on the cv axle nut isnt a torque setting it is a spot where the "stake" the nut to keep it from backing out. Just letting you know. So you could have staked it again in the first spot you tightened it to.
Thanks for your post. Placing the axle nut back to "stake" mark may not result in the original torque setting since the threads of both the nut and the cv shaft may give back some of their tension due to the friction caused by the first time they were torqued.
Great wideo, just what I need to do. Thanks .... i have a question: my lower arm is bent , if in case where attaches to the subframe is bent to can I replace the subframe without taking out the engine ? Thanks
To replace the subframe without removing the engine and transmission, you need a load leveler support bar. This bar rests on each side of the chassis with adjustable screw hangers. Then you attach steel chains to the bar and engine/transmission. Screwing down on the hanger screws will lift the engine/transmission off the subframe. Now the subframe can be detached from the engine/transmission by unbolting the engine/transmission mounts. The subframe then is unbolted from the chassis. Here's a link to the tool on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Leveler-1100lbs-Capacity-Support-Transmission/dp/B071HGQHPC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542128729&sr=8-4&keywords=engine+load+leveler+support+bar
Hello can you add a link to the snap rings you added after installing the new Moog ball joints? The Moog ball joints don't come with new snap rings. Thank you.
@@hardlymovingpro so i guess I must have lined it up so that can NOT be the problem with the squeaky noise when hitting bump or left turns only so the only other choice I have is just to replace the one strut ( YES every thing else underneath I have replaced already and the struts are just a little over a year old it driving me mad so I just have to replace it like other have said. Thanks for your input
@@pharrohku5922 did you put a bit of grease around the circumference of the strut? Had that annoying squeak on the right... until I lifted the car and put on some grease.
@@dottorb7054 you mean remove the strut and put some grease around the mounting bolts at the top of the strut or where exactly do you mean to put grease on it . But why should I do this because the right side does NOT make any noise I did not have to do anything special to it when I installed them they were fine for almost a year and now the left side squeaks only
Great job....very through ;) looks like a pretty straight forward job.....nice to see you do it 1st and fill in the gaps .....little trade secrets :) ~Cheers
Thanks for sharing ! I have a question? 2002 crv, steering wheel vibrated or wiggles at 45 miles-60 miles/hr then becomes smooth at a faster speed...what should I need to check to pinpoint the diagnosis? Thanks...
Assuming your wheels have been balanced, perhaps your tires are out-of-round (the only fix is replacement) or your wheel is bent (also only fix is replacement). The tires can be checked with a "Road Force" machine which most tire centers should have. Another possibility is that your CV axle is bent.
I agree with above but I would add taking a look at the control arm bushings. I had the same symptoms w a 2004 CRV and I fixed it with a new control arm.
I did replace the ball joint and sway bar links at the same time. But, the old ball joint was in good condition. The control arm bushings were falling apart. Really nice complete video.
Thanks for this video. I was about to tackle this job this weekend, I order my control arms and ball joints from Amazon before watching yout video. And guess what , they are 'Detroit axle ' parts. Anything that should I worry about, or just plain jame return them?
Their parts are relatively good but I've had recent problems with them. Their warranty return policy is extremely rigid. Regardless of whether you have your purchase receipt (which mine didn't have a printed order number) they would not honor their warranty without a order number. With respect to Amazon, after 30 or 60 days, no warranty coverage by Amazon ... you're on your own ... contact the third party vendor. Rockauto.com, on the other hand, has a excellent warranty product return policy.
Great video! Thank you! Gotta love those Moog greasable stabilizer links! Soo much easier to remove and with proper maintenance they should last longer than the OEM ones (in theory)
not a bad video. little advice though. You should lower the car to ride height before tightening the lower control arm bushings. If you don't do that, the bushings will bind and wear prematurely
Thanks for your comments. From my observations, the front bushings are the ones that undergo the most stress and tend to break. The rears are nominal with respect to stress. I have not experienced or seen premature control arm bushing failures (years later after installation) caused by not applying suspension compression stress to the control arms prior to applying the final torque to the control arm bushing bolts. I can't say with certainty, but believe this is not done at the factory as well. Suspension loading is more applicable with American or European suspensions designs IMHO.
Hey dude, I'm from EU, we don't have a aftermarket complete strut set, i have found them separately (spring etc), but i encountered a dilemma, could you help out? Basically for CRV 2001 - 2005 CRV one strut code, but for 2004 - 2006 restyling there is different strut code, one for restyling they cost $20 more, but look identical to 2001-2005 model, i want to order the cheaper one of course it saves me $40, but will it fit my 2006 CRV? My 2006 CRV is second generation same as 2002 model, only front and rear bumpers are different, and front bumper has round fog light. codes are as follows : 2001-2005 mode right side : 51605S9AA22 2004-2006 restyling model right side : 51605S9A034 both are KYB i want to save as much as i can hence be watching your video on how to do it, but identical parts seem to cost different despite looking the same?? is it just manufacturer trying to rip people off or is there an actual difference between model years?
Nice video, really. Just a couple of things that can save you some hassle down the road. First, use a ball joint remover. It gets the job done without the possibility of damaging parts. Second, caliper pins require a special high temp grease. Otherwise you'll get stuck pins and as a result warped rotors. Learned this the hard expensive way, don't repeat my mistakes. Third, you used a generic cotter pin where Honda uses a special one. Usually there is a reason for using more expensive part, so I would stick with the Honda approved one. Forth, you put the strut-hub bolts in the opposite direction. Probably not a big deal, yet usually there is a reason, may be not apparent, why bolts are positioned this way. I would follow the factory position. :)
Thanks for your post but sorry ... confused by your comments. In the video I did use a Honda specific ball joint removal tool. The caliper pins weren't lubricated because the brakes didn't require servicing and this is a suspension service video. A new cotter pin came with the replacement ball joint and that was what I used. The strut bolts do not have a chamber adjustment feature therefore it doesn't matter what direction they're mounted.
What is the reason for more expensive cotter pins? Doesn't make sense to me. If it holds the nut in place then it does it's job then who cares what kind it is?
Auto manufacturers don't use anti seize (not sieze) when installing struts at the factory and load the suspension as well. But I guess UAW and no UAW workers are mechanics.
If you're a strong advocate of torque specs and want torque specs for every nut, bolt and stud for peace-of-mind, I strongly suggest you make a small investment in an automotive repair manual for this vehicle and only use this video as a visual guide.
Always a good idea to have a complete set of metric 3/8 and 1/2 inch sockets if serious about doing DIY work. Common sizes for Asian cars: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 & 19 mm.
Factory bottom bolts are 19mm bolt head nut 22mm at least on a 06 Element. Top strut nuts are 14mm aftermarket usualy 15mm. Axle shaft nuts are 36mm should replace axle nuts once removed. A set of 8 -22 standard well and deep well in both 3/8 and 1/2. Ratchets and breaker bars. Extensions It can take time to build up a tool set
th-cam.com/video/6y51i-8SGrk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dt7xafSMXRlclzyM&t=554 What is that wrench with the knuckle in it called that you are using on the nut of the stabilizer link, not the hex, the other one on the nut? Thanks!
@@johnbecnel693 I do that if the control arm's front and rear bushings are positioned horizontally relative to the subframe or chassis mounting points. On the CRV, the front bushing is under the most stress and the mount has a vertical bushing ... which by compressing the suspension before tightening the bushing bolt makes no stress difference.
Ball joint NOOO! You put the end of the ball-joint tool DIRECTLY on the ball-joint cap??? This could seriously damage it. You need to use the tube that sits on the RIM.
Superb! This video gave me the confidence to take on suspension rebuilt on my 02-06 CR-V, so thank you!!! HOWEVER, I will say that if you are in England (i.e. wet) then prepare for a fight when trying to remove the ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS, which are conveniently left out of this video. They are a bastard!!! check out 'ericthecarguy's video for more info - I'm about to head off to find a blowtorch :S
I think Honda needs to either get their shit together or take their soft steel and their soft quality control practices back to where they originated! Over seas and let them suffer be vibrated of the road!
Thanks for your comment! Owner had a lifetime alignment warranty plan with Firestone. Even if he didn't, with all the parts replaced, it's a given that an alignment job is necessary. I use to do alignment jobs on an alignment machine. If you're off by 1 degree or more with the toe, it'll result in pre-mature tire wear. With loose and worn out suspension components, you'll never get the alignment under 1 degree ... to much free play. Therefore, using the old alignment settings is a no no and doesn't negate the need for an alignment job.
@@hardlymovingpro The owner got lucky with free alignments. Many owners will not pay for the lower ball joint replacement due to the ages of the car/suv. I will replace the lower ball joint /or the lower control joint and tell owner just drive it or sell it. After 10 years, the car/suv will need many other parts needed to be replaced. Like, the worst Oil Pump's O-Ring that needed replacement. But doing this is very costly. Nevertheless, you have done a nice job.
@@angelisone I did a complete suspension rebuild with new tie rod ends on a 99 Accord with over 200k miles. Told the guy to get a wheel alignment. He kept complaining about losing traction on wet roads. Asked him several times if he got a wheel alignment. Continuously evasive with his answer and complaining about traction loss (like he wanted me to do something to fix it for free). Three months later he eventually wore out the tires to the point where the steel belts were showing. He brought the car to Costco to get new tires. They replaced the tires with a note that if he didn't get a wheel alignment, they would not honor any future warranty claims. After he got the new tires and alignment, he calls me up to tell me how wonderful the suspension is and how it now steers straight!
@@hardlymovingpro I, like you and many repair shops, have known that India, Bangladesh & Pakistan want everything for free. But when you needed their services, they will rip you off. Now, even many owners will try to blame on repair that was never done nor touch, "I know nothing about car and you screwed up my car..." But when you come to their office because of a cold. And 1 week, you came down with a flu. Or you died from *COVID-19. Guess what, he or she won't treat you for free. *They will send you the bills, so your loved will have to pay
@@hardlymovingpro I know what you means. My daughter was let go in her fields. She is a physician. And I am stuck with over $625,000 of student loan bills. Don't you love when the rich people (billionaire Trumps & gov) in USA say Asia should do fare labor practices? And Trumps ordered us not to work or have shop/business to shutdown. Guess, it's okay when they are making $125,000.00+ a year. While many people can not make beyond $85,000.00.
Straight to the point and without music to tell me how I should feel while watching a tutorial. Thank you so much for taking the time to share with all of us who appreciate your efforts. Cheers brother
You bet!
How do you feel about the aftermarket, upper control arm assemblies available on eBay? I know my factory sway arm links (front and rear) and my ball joints are past their service limits, so I'm thinking of replacing them before they check out on me.
Excellent video. When I replaced a CV shaft on my crv recently I didn't take the brake caliper off the brake caliper bracket. I just removed the 2 brake caliper bracket bolts and removed the whole brake caliper assembly as one piece. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us DIYers.
Yup. That's the easy way to do it.
my back hurts from watching. I cant imagine trying to do this and hold a camera at the same time. Bravo.
You're right. I can't hold the camera and do the repair ... which is why I partnered up ... but then there's the video editing ... 1 hr for every minute of video!
Hardly Moving Productions , one hour of editing?no wonder not everyone is a TH-cam star. Thanks for all the work involved in getting this to us.
Wow ! I am not a mechanic, so you made me realize how technical these repairs are.
Honda ball joint replacements can be a hassle.
Here in Romania, Eastern Europe, I could hardly trust a local mechanic to do such a detailed and accurate job as you did, poor car service is one reason we are the country with the most car accidents in Europe.
Thank you!
I thought Portugal had the most car accidents in Europe? Followed by ireland
For anyone watching, it may be intimidating seeing all those bolts and nuts, but that's ALL THERE IS....just nuts and bolts holding the suspension together. You can do it 👍
Thanks for sharing a basic truth ... but there's also studs and specialty tools,
Well done. They use a lot of salt on the roads up here in winter; so, I have a heck of a lot more rust on my 2003 then you do. Parts are also harder to remove with the rust. Information about the sway bar would have been helpful when I replaced the control arm last year. Thanks for the video.
Glad you liked it!
Use penetrating oil a week before, and every day squirt a little more on the bolts. Helps when taking things apart.
SUCH A GREAT VIDEO!!
Honda Element owners this video is gold, because the 2002-2006 CRV has nearly the same suspension system
The parts are similar but not an exact match. The procedure to do the repair should be close to identical.
@@hardlymovingpro - thanks for the correction - the how-to is the same.
I edited my first comment so I don't confuse anyone
Especially appreciated is the note about the orientation of the strut assembly!
No problem!
@@hardlymovingpro 3:35 - I had to use a pickle fork to bust the ball joint out of the control arm. Impressive you were able to knock it loose with the hammer. Beat the piss out of mine and it still wouldn't budge, so off to the store..
I stopped using the pickle fork tool. A ball peen hammer works best for me.
Gotta do this on both sides of my 04 Element. Definitely feeling more confident after watching this video
Good for you and good luck!
Thank you for this! There's not many videos on CR-V maintenance!
Glad to be of help with this DIY and Thx for your support.
Always a good sign ;)
There are SHITLOADS of videos on CR-V maintenance! 🤔
Great job! Just thought I'd add that it's best to torque the control arm bolts when the control arm has been pre-loaded.
Hum ... you're talking about the upper control arms? Don't think the lowers matter.
@@hardlymovingpro it does actually. If the rubber in the bushing twists too great a distance, it will tear. That is why it is best to torque it down in the middle of the range it actuates rather than the end.
Ok ... thanks ... something to consider when I do the job again on my next Honda or Acura. To date, no complaints from the customer and he's been happy with the improved ride quality.
Great video, keeping it simple without all the BS other guys try to do to make it more entertaining, big thumbs up from me.
Thanks ... glad you like it. We do try to keep it as simple as possible.
Don't take the tie rod off like this.Turn the steering wheel all the way in the direction that pushes the tie rod toward you, this takes the impact away from the rack and pinion. Put a big heavy hammer behind the female part of the joint and then strike the other side with a hammer. Same with the ball joint. You need the mass behind the joint to stop it from moving.
Okay ... thanks ... makes sense ... will keep that in mind the next time I disconnect a tie rod end.
Just. Use. A. Ball. Joint. Remover. I know it's not macho enough, but it gets the job done with no damage.
Very nice video, good camera work and no unnecessary bullshit while doing the job, I learned a lot, thanks.
Glad you liked it.
I just changed the lowers on a 2006 crv. I used one tong of a pickle fork between the knuckle and control arm to not tear the ball joint boot up and I ended up flattening the tong on the fork before that ball came loose from the taper.
I don't use the pickle fork tool anymore. I use a large hammer to vibrate it loose.
Hardly Moving Productions I was using a combo of both. Fork to add some stored energy so it would pop loose easier when hammering the control arm to shake it loose as well. A harbor freight fork is apparently made of softer metal than a Honda spindle.
Hey awesome video can you please list the basic parts needed to send for alignment. Do I have to replace the whole front end? The main reason I ask is because I need to fix as soon as possible. It is wearing heavily the insides of my tires? Thank you
Alignment shop will tell you if you need new inner or outer tie rods
I need to do this on my '05 CR-V. I already did axles and ball joints, but the other suspension components still need attention. I think Complete KYB Strut Plus assemblies are the best way to go for these. I am also going to be replacing the tie rods (both inner and outer), complete front & rear sway bar assemblies with new links and bushings (the sway bars that are on the car have rusted and were painted at some point in the past by a previous mechanic and the paint is flaking off and I don't like that so I found a good used one for the front because that one has been discontinued and the rear one is available and is very inexpensive compared to most other Honda parts on this car. Haven't decided what I'm going to do about the rear trailing arms and upper control arms yet, but the upper rear control arm bushings are shot and it looks like you can only buy them as a complete assembly from Honda, and they are stupid money but based on what I've seen and researched on these it looks like new rear trailing arms may be the best option for me, as distasteful as I find it!
I already overhauled the entire brake system as well as all the wheel hub & bearing assemblies, and this was in an effort to replace the brake dust shields that were completely rotted away and rattling around. That was not fun or cheap at all, but it was totally worth it! The car brakes and handles so much better now!
Thanks for sharing your story. For parts, check out rockauto.com. Good parts suppliers with reputable brand names.
yeah I know. I had some issues with them in the past and I haven't used them in a while, but that may change soon. @@hardlymovingpro
What was that BF punch you used to get the axle out of the rotor? What is that called and where do you get that? Thanks!
Electric jackhammer chisel. amzn.to/3URPm0J
This was an amazing video of the process. Cudos to you and your cameraman. Can you recommend brands for each component that you swapped? Also, is there a reason you didn't change the tie rod end while you were already in there? Did you have the car aligned after the job? Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks ... appreciate your critique! The tie rod is not part of the suspension and we made this a suspension video. I usually do not replace tie rods (there's both inner and outer) unless there's too much free play in the steering wheel or the car's pulling either to the left or right. Rockauto.com is excellent parts supplier of name brand parts producers who provide good warranties. If you buy parts off of Ebay you don't know who made it and how long it's going to last. I just recently got screwed by a company called Detroit Axle. Its a long story but the bottom line is they won't honor their advertised warranty even with proof of purchase.
Oh ... and yes. The owner did get the front end re-aligned.
WoW!!!!!!!!!! That's all i can say!!!!! This guy is phenomenal!!!!!!!
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro You are so welcome.
Thanks for the video. I see that you like to do a lot more work than what needs to be done.
I don't know why you didn't junk the OEM Stabilizer Links and install new ones (with the nut).
The strut definitely doesn't need to be removed.
Buy yourself a screw type ball joint separator for $25. It'll save you from all of that hammering.
Nice video and commentary. Definitely a great video for novices to learn from.
Good job
Thanks for your critique but am confused with your analysis. Replace the stabilizer links but don't remove/replace the strut? How did you surmise the condition of these parts? Replace and/or remove ball joints for a living and I guarantee you'll throw away your ball joint separator.
What brand of parts did you use on this? A job for next summer. Except I have all the rust from the north to deal with.
Mevotech and MOOG is a good quality aftermarket brand if not going with OEM.
The Haynes Manual says you should only loosely put the axle nut back on and tightened when the wheel is on and lowered and resting on the ground. Doesn't say why, but I followed your process and don't have a problem, but a bit unnerved. Should I be?
That's one technique but you generally don't want to place load on the axle when torquing down on the axle nut. The torque value may be on the light side.
Howdy. Is this enough power to take off and put on the struts. Impact Wrench: Up to 2,800 RPM and up to 225 ft./lbs. of breakaway torque? Before I buy it. TY kindly.
For struts ... Yes.
Great video... Thanks, I'm doing my 2005 CRV suspension this weekend..
Okay Juan. Good Luck with the job!
Can leaving a ball joint in a freezer help to slip it in easier as haven't got the tools here in the UK as I'm a bit of a Noob. Im planning or drilling out the old one
Yes ... that can help ... but it better to removed the old ball joint and install a new one using the proper tools. Hammering and cutting is both timing consuming and unprofessional with a questionable outcome. You can always bring the steering knuckle to automotive machine shop and have them do the work. What they may charge could be the cost of the tools you're avoiding buying.
That indentation on the cv axle nut isnt a torque setting it is a spot where the "stake" the nut to keep it from backing out. Just letting you know. So you could have staked it again in the first spot you tightened it to.
Thanks for your post. Placing the axle nut back to "stake" mark may not result in the original torque setting since the threads of both the nut and the cv shaft may give back some of their tension due to the friction caused by the first time they were torqued.
Great wideo, just what I need to do. Thanks .... i have a question: my lower arm is bent , if in case where attaches to the subframe is bent to can I replace the subframe without taking out the engine ? Thanks
To replace the subframe without removing the engine and transmission, you need a load leveler support bar. This bar rests on each side of the chassis with adjustable screw hangers. Then you attach steel chains to the bar and engine/transmission. Screwing down on the hanger screws will lift the engine/transmission off the subframe. Now the subframe can be detached from the engine/transmission by unbolting the engine/transmission mounts. The subframe then is unbolted from the chassis. Here's a link to the tool on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/Leveler-1100lbs-Capacity-Support-Transmission/dp/B071HGQHPC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542128729&sr=8-4&keywords=engine+load+leveler+support+bar
Is that penetrating oil okay to spray on those bushings? Shouldn’t it be some sorta synthetics stuff? I don’t know...
I like to use silicone grease (aka di-electric or plumber's grease).
Old ball joint was bad. Just bang it out from below. Nice video.
Thanks!
Can I just do the lower ball joint without taking the spindle off? Or does this always need an alignment afterwards?
You can try but that's the hard way ... IMO. An alignment is usually necessary after replacing the lower control arm.
Perfect full video. Thank you. Is it worth to replace the wheel bearing also.
No need if it's not making noise. Front bearings usually wear out from long overdue wheel balancing. The vibration wears them out.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Does anyone know if this is the same set up on an FR-V aka Edix in Japan.
Thanks!
Excellent video, great job, love the ball joint tool!
Thanks!
Don't forget to put Anti-Seize on every Bolts, just in case it gets rusty.
Hello can you add a link to the snap rings you added after installing the new Moog ball joints?
The Moog ball joints don't come with new snap rings. Thank you.
Added the link in the video text area.
Some ball joints are design to use snap rings some dont oem dont use the snap ring maybe why moog dont come with the ring
Does the Moog Ball Joint come with a slip ring?
It should.
What happens if you do NOT line up those arrows would it cause a squeaky noise while making left turn or hitting bumps ???
The lower portion of the strut wouldn't line up with the steering knuckle to attached the bolts.
@@hardlymovingpro so i guess I must have lined it up so that can NOT be the problem with the squeaky noise when hitting bump or left turns only so the only other choice I have is just to replace the one strut ( YES every thing else underneath I have replaced already and the struts are just a little over a year old it driving me mad so I just have to replace it like other have said. Thanks for your input
@@pharrohku5922 did you put a bit of grease around the circumference of the strut? Had that annoying squeak on the right... until I lifted the car and put on some grease.
@@dottorb7054 you mean remove the strut and put some grease around the mounting bolts at the top of the strut or where exactly do you mean to put grease on it .
But why should I do this because the right side does NOT make any noise I did not have to do anything special to it when I installed them they were fine for almost a year and now the left side squeaks only
@@dottorb7054 IT ended up being a DEFECTIVE STRUT internal problem. Installed new strut and problem solved
Great job....very through ;) looks like a pretty straight forward job.....nice to see you do it 1st and fill in the gaps .....little trade secrets :)
~Cheers
Glad you liked it!
That car must ride nice now with all new parts
Of course assuming the replacement parts are of reasonable quality.
I replaced front wheel bearing assembly n strut won't line up with bolt holes strut moved on 2011 Honda CR-V
You'll have to work it in with twists, turns and maybe penetrating oil.
Thanks for sharing ! I have a question? 2002 crv, steering wheel vibrated or wiggles at 45 miles-60 miles/hr then becomes smooth at a faster speed...what should I need to check to pinpoint the diagnosis? Thanks...
Assuming your wheels have been balanced, perhaps your tires are out-of-round (the only fix is replacement) or your wheel is bent (also only fix is replacement). The tires can be checked with a "Road Force" machine which most tire centers should have. Another possibility is that your CV axle is bent.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks for your response 😁!
I agree with above but I would add taking a look at the control arm bushings. I had the same symptoms w a 2004 CRV and I fixed it with a new control arm.
Hum... that's interesting.
I did replace the ball joint and sway bar links at the same time. But, the old ball joint was in good condition. The control arm bushings were falling apart. Really nice complete video.
Do I need a impact gun for the cv axle nut, or can I just use a breaker bar?
Can use a breaker bar with the wheel set on the ground. May have to use a cheater bar with the breaker to generate enough torque.
What you think of the front end suspension rebuild kit from 1a auto?
Don't know ... never bought any products from them.
Question after you install everything back ,it will need the alignment?
If the car pulls to the left or right and or the steering wheel is no longer straight
Thanks for this video. I was about to tackle this job this weekend, I order my control arms and ball joints from Amazon before watching yout video.
And guess what , they are 'Detroit axle ' parts.
Anything that should I worry about, or just plain jame return them?
Their parts are relatively good but I've had recent problems with them. Their warranty return policy is extremely rigid. Regardless of whether you have your purchase receipt (which mine didn't have a printed order number) they would not honor their warranty without a order number. With respect to Amazon, after 30 or 60 days, no warranty coverage by Amazon ... you're on your own ... contact the third party vendor. Rockauto.com, on the other hand, has a excellent warranty product return policy.
@@hardlymovingpro Copy that, thanks again.
wow. It's a big job by yourself.
Not that bad. Can do by myself.
Cool video!!! Have a 06 CR-V that needs this!!!
Good luck with the repair!
What are the torque specs for ball joints and tie rods?
You'll have to get a repair manual for those specs.
How many time it take for you do that in the video youre looking work very fast
After video editing, the playback makes the repair appear fast.
Is the replacement ball joint from HONDA, if so what is the part number please ?
It was a non Honda replacement part.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thank, did it last, still working fine?
Great video! Thank you! Gotta love those Moog greasable stabilizer links! Soo much easier to remove and with proper maintenance they should last longer than the OEM ones (in theory)
Thanks ... and don't forget Moog's life time warranty!
Hardly Moving Productions yes, thank you!
When i did my LCA's i took the whole hub off with the LCA and beat the topside of the LCA next to the balljoint and it popped right out.
Good for you! Whatever works.
@@hardlymovingpro yeah, I spent 20 mins hitting the balljoint area to no luck. I just pounded the LCA downward!
not a bad video. little advice though. You should lower the car to ride height before tightening the lower control arm bushings. If you don't do that, the bushings will bind and wear prematurely
Thanks for your comments. From my observations, the front bushings are the ones that undergo the most stress and tend to break. The rears are nominal with respect to stress. I have not experienced or seen premature control arm bushing failures (years later after installation) caused by not applying suspension compression stress to the control arms prior to applying the final torque to the control arm bushing bolts. I can't say with certainty, but believe this is not done at the factory as well. Suspension loading is more applicable with American or European suspensions designs IMHO.
Should I replace the wheel bearing since you were already there
If it's not making noise, I wouldn't. Bearings usually go bad due to the vibration of unbalance wheels.
Power tools are the best
Yes ... it does make the job go faster and easier!
Can you just remove the whole brake caliper and bracket together?
If you want.
Hey dude, I'm from EU, we don't have a aftermarket complete strut set, i have found them separately (spring etc), but i encountered a dilemma, could you help out? Basically for CRV 2001 - 2005 CRV one strut code, but for 2004 - 2006 restyling there is different strut code, one for restyling they cost $20 more, but look identical to 2001-2005 model, i want to order the cheaper one of course it saves me $40, but will it fit my 2006 CRV? My 2006 CRV is second generation same as 2002 model, only front and rear bumpers are different, and front bumper has round fog light.
codes are as follows :
2001-2005 mode right side : 51605S9AA22
2004-2006 restyling model right side : 51605S9A034
both are KYB
i want to save as much as i can hence be watching your video on how to do it, but identical parts seem to cost different despite looking the same?? is it just manufacturer trying to rip people off or is there an actual difference between model years?
Difference could be something as simple as sway bar link and brake line bracket mounting points. Difficult to say if the parts are interchangeable.
Some people remove the abs ring thing is that not necessary?
I wouldn't.
Why is there not a upper control arm?
Different design decided by the manufacturer. Cars with upper and lower control arms are more costly to make but do provide a more stable ride.
Why did you remove the strut and TRE??
Why ... what didn't you like? What's a TRE?
good vid man, thank you.
You bet!
Visited to see how the upper control arm is replaced but not shown in this video.
CRV doesn't have upper control arms but the Accord does. Here's the vid: th-cam.com/video/a9qdPDC9cQU/w-d-xo.html
There is NO upper control arms bro
Does it need an alignment now?
Yes. Ever time you replace a control arm.
What is cost of labor for all this?
You'll have to look online and search for the average national price that most people are reporting.
Bravo and thank you sir.
You bet!
Are those camber bolts from the strut ?
Nope ... camber can't be adjusted via the bolts.
Nice video, really. Just a couple of things that can save you some hassle down the road. First, use a ball joint remover. It gets the job done without the possibility of damaging parts. Second, caliper pins require a special high temp grease. Otherwise you'll get stuck pins and as a result warped rotors. Learned this the hard expensive way, don't repeat my mistakes. Third, you used a generic cotter pin where Honda uses a special one. Usually there is a reason for using more expensive part, so I would stick with the Honda approved one. Forth, you put the strut-hub bolts in the opposite direction. Probably not a big deal, yet usually there is a reason, may be not apparent, why bolts are positioned this way. I would follow the factory position. :)
Thanks for your post but sorry ... confused by your comments. In the video I did use a Honda specific ball joint removal tool. The caliper pins weren't lubricated because the brakes didn't require servicing and this is a suspension service video. A new cotter pin came with the replacement ball joint and that was what I used. The strut bolts do not have a chamber adjustment feature therefore it doesn't matter what direction they're mounted.
@@hardlymovingpro You always get one, don't you!! I thought it is an excellent video.
I know ... Thanks!
What is the reason for more expensive cotter pins? Doesn't make sense to me. If it holds the nut in place then it does it's job then who cares what kind it is?
Great video man..
Thanks!
thanks man!
You bet!
How long did it take you to do this job?
Around 1.5 hrs
Both sides?
Nope ... per side.
no anti sieze on refiting and tightened up the bolts with the suspension extended (Not loaded!)... fitters, not mechanics :)
Auto manufacturers don't use anti seize (not sieze) when installing struts at the factory and load the suspension as well. But I guess UAW and no UAW workers are mechanics.
Any torque specs or you just impact everything
You saw the video ... just impact everything.
@@hardlymovingpro lol cool will do
@@hardlymovingpro really poor practice. Of course there are torque specs.
If you're a strong advocate of torque specs and want torque specs for every nut, bolt and stud for peace-of-mind, I strongly suggest you make a small investment in an automotive repair manual for this vehicle and only use this video as a visual guide.
Great job and video 👍 gracias amigo
I have energy suspension bushings on mine!!!
Probably great handling but rough ride?
Thing is, I need socket sizes so I can prep and assess tools I’ll need before getting the car up in the air
Always a good idea to have a complete set of metric 3/8 and 1/2 inch sockets if serious about doing DIY work. Common sizes for Asian cars: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 & 19 mm.
Factory bottom bolts are 19mm bolt head nut 22mm at least on a 06 Element. Top strut nuts are 14mm aftermarket usualy 15mm.
Axle shaft nuts are 36mm should replace axle nuts once removed.
A set of 8 -22 standard well and deep well in both 3/8 and 1/2.
Ratchets and breaker bars.
Extensions
It can take time to build up a tool set
good idea to make a power gun noise down
Thanks. 10:41 - those lose wires... :)
nice video..
Appreciate your post and your support!
thanks for video...
My pleasure. Hope you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the post. Now I can work on mine. Awesome!
Glad to have helped you out with the video!
Thanks for your support and good luck with the repair!
I gave up on the hammer.. Just went to Harbor Freight and bought the 3/4" Ball Joint Separator for $20.00....
The bigger and heavier the hammer head, the better.
th-cam.com/video/6y51i-8SGrk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dt7xafSMXRlclzyM&t=554
What is that wrench with the knuckle in it called that you are using on the nut of the stabilizer link, not the hex, the other one on the nut? Thanks!
ATD Tools 99650 XL Ratcheting Wrench Set with 10 Metric Sizes - 5 Piece amzn.to/3AGGOCO
Nitido
Tigtening that control arm bushing with the arm not in its normal position puts permanent stress on that rubber greatly shortening its life
The orientation of the bushing won't make that an issue.
Lower arm bushing. The position it is tightened in is supposed to be the neutral position, where it will be when assembled and tires on the ground.
@@johnbecnel693 I do that if the control arm's front and rear bushings are positioned horizontally relative to the subframe or chassis mounting points. On the CRV, the front bushing is under the most stress and the mount has a vertical bushing ... which by compressing the suspension before tightening the bushing bolt makes no stress difference.
Pro !
Thanks!
Ball joint NOOO! You put the end of the ball-joint tool DIRECTLY on the ball-joint cap??? This could seriously damage it. You need to use the tube that sits on the RIM.
Fits in the outer edge of the ball joint!
Superb! This video gave me the confidence to take on suspension rebuilt on my 02-06 CR-V, so thank you!!!
HOWEVER, I will say that if you are in England (i.e. wet) then prepare for a fight when trying to remove the ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS, which are conveniently left out of this video. They are a bastard!!! check out 'ericthecarguy's video for more info - I'm about to head off to find a blowtorch :S
Thanks! Rotary cut off tool can work too.
Use a pry fork to remove the ball joint out. I caught a mechanic beating on my control arm like that I'd slap him
That's the way I use to do it. I found hammer vibration to be easier.
How much a garage charge for this?
Difficult to say. You'd have to get some price quote.
I think Honda needs to either get their shit together or take their soft steel and their soft quality control practices back to where they originated! Over seas and let them suffer be vibrated of the road!
You've clearly never heard of a torque wrench. Really hope this was your own vehicle and not someone else's.
Yes ... one of many happy, satisfied and repeat customers! And they watch my videos.
Lmaooo youre a real dooshbag huh. Torque wrench, thanks for the laugh
Torque specs exist for a reason.
Yes they do.
You are not really done.
You didn't marked those bolts, now you got to throw out $166.00 for complete wheels alignments
Thanks for your comment! Owner had a lifetime alignment warranty plan with Firestone. Even if he didn't, with all the parts replaced, it's a given that an alignment job is necessary. I use to do alignment jobs on an alignment machine. If you're off by 1 degree or more with the toe, it'll result in pre-mature tire wear. With loose and worn out suspension components, you'll never get the alignment under 1 degree ... to much free play. Therefore, using the old alignment settings is a no no and doesn't negate the need for an alignment job.
@@hardlymovingpro The owner got lucky with free alignments.
Many owners will not pay for the lower ball joint replacement due to the ages of the car/suv.
I will replace the lower ball joint /or the lower control joint and tell owner just drive it or sell it.
After 10 years, the car/suv will need many other parts needed to be replaced.
Like, the worst Oil Pump's O-Ring that needed replacement. But doing this is very costly.
Nevertheless, you have done a nice job.
@@angelisone I did a complete suspension rebuild with new tie rod ends on a 99 Accord with over 200k miles. Told the guy to get a wheel alignment. He kept complaining about losing traction on wet roads. Asked him several times if he got a wheel alignment. Continuously evasive with his answer and complaining about traction loss (like he wanted me to do something to fix it for free). Three months later he eventually wore out the tires to the point where the steel belts were showing. He brought the car to Costco to get new tires. They replaced the tires with a note that if he didn't get a wheel alignment, they would not honor any future warranty claims. After he got the new tires and alignment, he calls me up to tell me how wonderful the suspension is and how it now steers straight!
@@hardlymovingpro I, like you and many repair shops, have known that India, Bangladesh & Pakistan want everything for free.
But when you needed their services, they will rip you off.
Now, even many owners will try to blame on repair that was never done nor touch, "I know nothing about car and you screwed up my car..."
But when you come to their office because of a cold.
And 1 week, you came down with a flu.
Or you died from *COVID-19.
Guess what, he or she won't treat you for free.
*They will send you the bills, so your loved will have to pay
@@hardlymovingpro I know what you means.
My daughter was let go in her fields. She is a physician.
And I am stuck with over $625,000 of student loan bills.
Don't you love when the rich people (billionaire Trumps & gov) in USA say Asia should do fare labor practices?
And Trumps ordered us not to work or have shop/business to shutdown.
Guess, it's okay when they are making $125,000.00+ a year.
While many people can not make beyond $85,000.00.
Really good job thanks bro.
You bet!