This is such a shame. In my opinion, the GMC Sierra is the best looking truck today. The 3.0 Duramax is very interesting to me. My local dealer has 22 of these on the lot. Well, Chevy and GMC but I just see a lot of issues from the DEF to transmissions and loud suspension clunks. The tailgate is incredible but no, my insincts tell me stay away.
Exactly why I didn’t buy a GM again. My 2013 Silverado had most of the wax chipped off and covered in rust after 7 years where salt wasn’t used.. where I live now in Calgary Alberta they use chemicals and salt all the time so the GM wax frame was a no go for me. Customer shouldn’t have to go and correct this problem after the fact. GM knows this is a problem and they don’t care. Went with Ford F-150 but the GM twins and the diesel are awesome looking trucks.
MY 2013 rusted so badly that I had to get rid of it as it would not have passed another Pa. inspection. They are rust buckets plain and simple and always have been since 2000.
Was this resolved? I just picked up a 21 AT4 with 18k miles and it has similar spot rusting. I have limited warranty left so curious hat a path forward could look like
There was a fair amount of rust on my 21 when I bought it at 33k. I plan to have it completely treated inside the frame and out by a local rustproofing provider. It’s another $400 and unfortunate that the OEM doesn’t do a good job at this.
I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra with 214000 kms, my dad has a 2015 GMC Sierra with 44000 kms, my truck has very little rust for the year, my dads has quite a bit of rust.
Fords look worse than this sitting on the lot brand new. Get some CRC marine spray. Also, don't swap your differential cover. The flat back covers are not better. Banks did a video on them.
The PPE differential cover for the 3.0 L Duramax is not a flat back. PPE came out with curved differential covers for many rear differential applications long before Banks.
Greg, thanks man! Well its certainly too late now not to install the Diff Cover as I ordered it about a month ago. I've been waiting to get the truck in the shop for the rust fix. More to follow, once I install the diff. cover, I will see if its any bit worth it.
Not true, at least in my experience. Fords frames are solid when it comes to rust, the only thing that rusts on a Ford from factory is the rear axle for some reason (could be also the supplier issue). I just picked up a 2023 silverado 3.0 duramax and the wax is already peeling in some spots and also my rear axle has some rust on it as it doesn't look like they use the wax on them
I noticed some peeling on my frame, of my 2023 AT4 with only 1800 miles on it and haven't crawled under the truck yet, but now after seeing this I will. Not looking forward to what I might see.
@@CHASING_BUILDS looking forward to it! I never get undercoat on my vehicles but looks like when I switch to a 24' at4x diesel ill be getting undercoat for sure!
To @cstgx : Dude, not sure who really told you about of such thing of not replacing the differential covers but instead Banks has one, etc, because they did a video on that…, etc..!! I have been changing my differential covers on all my 5 pickup trucks that I have owned among other vehicles in the past 25 years, being all brand new diesel trucks.., mainly RAMs and GMC as well as my 23 Chevy 1500 3.0 LZ0, and all I can tell is that NOT only it is easier and way faster to change the diff fluid, but also has a better cooling design that extends the life of your differential gears overall, AND besides all of that then you don’t have to take the covers off, let alone that these aftermarket majority of these has also a magnetic plug that is way more powerful than the flimsy magnets that are sometimes placed inside by the OEM assembly lines covers apparently, which by the way not all of them comes with any of that at all, except the transmission covers as far as I have seen lately.. Anyway, you don’t have to make a mess each and every time you have to service your differentials and in many cases you have to replace the gasket too… I personally change the diff fluids at or 15k to 20k miles MAX, depending on my driving pattern, meaning towing or not, highway or not, etc… However, all I can tell is that the brand new trucks have a lot of ware and tear in the beginning, and therefore you don’t want these “shaving metals particles” into your gears.. But each and everyone of you are more than welcome to do whatever you want. I alway replace the manufacturer fluid mostly prior to 5k miles or 10k miles, depending on my driving situation as I said.. It is so easy and cheaper for sure, than going into any shop, saving me money and time, as well as I replace the fluids with a way better performance fluid for sure too, and I know for fact that I do it myself while letting the old fluid drain for hours too… NEVER EVER have had ANY issues at all, and my trucks were performing flawlessly, but that is just me and my situations and which can be different than yours out there, I would assume, and in my opinion.. As I said, in my previous post, is that I grease the hell out of my underneath of my each and every truck that I had in particular and I did not see much of ANY rust at all. A pretty tedious job that require a lot of hard labor underneath of your vehicles, if you really want to do it right and correctly, while covering all the metal spots visible with you bare hands. I do NOT recommend doing this as I just did myself, since it can be very dangerous getting underneath of your truck or any vehicles, and therefore without correct precautions and/or equipment it can be very dangerous, basically making sure that you are protected and safe, which I strongly recommend that you take a serious precautions, before you try to imitate what I have done myself, and therefore have that greasing job done preventing any rusty that way, while getting yourself underneath in a reckless fashion and disregarding any of such safety measures in my opinion as I recommended all the time.. However, keep in mind that greasing your underneath of your vehicle can be very dangerous for anyone working under your truck in case the vehicle/truck or any type of vehicle, while having this applied grease, then your vehicle can slip from the lift jacks while being lifted from the ground, and accidents can or will occur from such situations, in my opinion, I would assume.. So, I always remind them (dealerships or any shops), in which I have to go with my vehicles for any recalls for example, or any other work at my vehicles, that I have greased already my undercarriage of my vehicles, all over the place, and the vehicle can slip if lifted from the ground, therefore I encourage them to lift the vehicle just few inches and prevent anyone from being injured instead of going underneath and work at my vehicles, as well as suggest that the mechanics use a dig ground space channel and avoid overall lifting the truck that way, basically using precautions all the time… If that is not possible, or available then I suggest that they use rugs at each and every point of lifting points of the trucks/vehicles, and prevent the vehicles from slipping that way, holding it in place way better, in my opinion as far as I have been doing in the past, and suggesting each and every time.. Mainly the shops take a lot more precautions and secure the vehicles a lot better that way as far as I have seen.. Now, in my case, is that I do almost all of my maintenance of my vehicles for more than 25 years as I rarely go in service with my vehicles at all, unless I have to do recalls, or in some cases rotate the tires, which in most cases the recalls do not require lifting the vehicles from the ground at any higher level, unless any jobs required lifting the vehicle entirely from the ground.. Again, PLEASE use your own judgment/s and do your own research/s before you copy or imitate anyone that is posting comments here or internet, OR anywhere else, since that will be your own choice/s and consequences if any, at any given time, now or in the future, since I strongly encourage you to do that before you engage in the same “presumable strategy while preventing any rust that way”… Moreover, NOTHING I said here and/or commented in general now or in the past should be considered ANY mechanical advice or legal advice whatsoever, since I am NOT any of that at all and in any shape or forms, therefore caution it is recommended and required in my opinion as I strongly recommend once again.. Cheers!
This issue has been going on a LOT longer than a decade. This crap goes back as far as 1987. Fluid film is the answer. Dont undercoat the frame, it will just make it worse.
Hello to everyone out there, So, regardless of what you generally try to buy these days, then all I can tell is that some of these vehicles regardless the brands, are more or less treated properly, when it comes to the “metal”… you get my point. For example the Volvo brand, as far as I know, (disclaimer: I don’t work for Volvo, nor I get paid to advertise their products,.. I use to own 2 instead), uses about 7 layers of protecting “paint”, or other liquids/fluids/paste, etc, in order to treat the body/metal, including numerous layers of paint. Anyway, in general, the “today’s” vehicles body treatment, should hold pretty well!!??, right!!?? Well, NOT so much, as we all can see. And therefore GM products are NOT unique, pretty much too!!.. Now, I had/owned 28 vehicles in the past 30+ years of my life, and all I can tell is that regardless what vehicles I had, majority brand new, or over 25 to be more exact, were fairly okay even after a few months of owning these, which many will say, ohh wait that was not enough to see rust, but the rust will appear pretty fast in many cases so don’t get foul by that, as it can be seen in this vid, right?!… So, of all of these vehicles that I used to have, or some of them that I owned even over 5 years too, then majority of these did not have this rust issue at all, since I took care of them, and here is what I did guys, basically done to numerous of them, and in particular pickup trucks, as well as SUVs… I bought just regular grease from any general stores, and I, myself, put that grease with my hands underneath the body all over, where I could reach, and see metal.. Or, in some instances I used a brush so that I can put grease in some narrower spaces, etc. you get my point… Moreover, I also pour or by spraying burned engine oil inside the frames of these vehicles as far as I could, of course burned oil fluid that was leaking eventually all over the places from the underneath, and/or where I decided to do the job (own backyard for example), and leave the car over there for few good hours, until the oil drained pretty much all of it out.. Basically, fluids that were mainly drained in some containers ready to hold the leaking oil that was pouring out of the vehicle’s frame/s.. All it does, is to have as much as possible sprayed burned oil inside the frame/s, and the walls of the frame/s as much as possible, therefore preventing rust, besides the grease all over the exterior of the frame/s, and the underneath of the vehicle’s body. Now, have I done a 100% coverage all over these frame/s??, or totally underneath??, most likely not, but a great part that I work on it, and did a tedious job, was worth it, since I rarely have seen ANY rust whatsoever at any of my previous vehicles. NOW, the only thing that I have to do each and every time I have to go in service, and that is ONLY if I have ANY recalls in my case, otherwise I do not go in service with any of my vehicles, since I do myself ALL the maintenance, was that I have to tell the dealership, or any shop, that they have to place a rug on each and every single lift point of touch underneath of my vehicles, and have the grease spot be less slippery that way, otherwise “your car” will fall of the lift jack, and damage your vehicle, I would assume, let alone that is very dangerous in the end, and therefore you don’t want ANY liabilities either… SO, CAUTION, it is required, as well as let the shop know about all of that grease under your car, and that slippery layer of grease can be very uncertain while lifting the vehicle of the ground.. I personally tell the dealership or any shop, to never use a high lift equipment, and/or lift the vehicle off the ground more then a few inches, so that any work can be preformed like tire rotations for example, but preferably any work need to be done in a dig ground space where a mechanic can go, and that the vehicle it is not lifted from the ground at all, avoiding any accidents, just in case.. I know, that is not always possible, but it is highly recommended if you want to avoid accidents, so please use this example as a reference in case you decided to do what I personally did myself and I DO NOT personally recommend to anyone in the first place to do what I have done myself whatsoever, therefore use your OWN judgement before you decide what it is best for you and your car, regardless any experiences of others or examples posted here.. All I can tell, is that I never have any rust as far as I remember, in general, at any of my vehicles that I personally treat them this way. Again, I am strongly encourage each and everyone out there, to make sure that you do your own research and use caution regardless what you do, before you try to imitate me or anyone else out there, since there is a great risk involve, while anyone of you decide of following my example described here, and therefore your decision it is just yours in the end, as well as you will be the one responsible if anything happens. I also strongly encourage each and everyone of you to NOT follow my personal example at all, if you don’t feel comfortable, doing any of that, bottom line, since getting under your car can be totally dangerous too, if you don’t use proper safety precautions or equipment, in order to prevent accidents.. Besides that make sure that your vehicle it is not leaking anymore, so that you are not getting in trouble for pollution and get fined.. All my comments here are just an opinion, and therefor nothing I said here should be considered any advice whatsoever, or an example of how to prevent rust… Please consult an expert before you decide what you want to do in your situation, or best for you, since my comments are just for pure entertainment only and nothing else. Cheers!..
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is such a shame. In my opinion, the GMC Sierra is the best looking truck today. The 3.0 Duramax is very interesting to me. My local dealer has 22 of these on the lot. Well, Chevy and GMC but I just see a lot of issues from the DEF to transmissions and loud suspension clunks. The tailgate is incredible but no, my insincts tell me stay away.
Exactly why I didn’t buy a GM again. My 2013 Silverado had most of the wax chipped off and covered in rust after 7 years where salt wasn’t used.. where I live now in Calgary Alberta they use chemicals and salt all the time so the GM wax frame was a no go for me. Customer shouldn’t have to go and correct this problem after the fact. GM knows this is a problem and they don’t care.
Went with Ford F-150 but the GM twins and the diesel are awesome looking trucks.
You said it best!
MY 2013 rusted so badly that I had to get rid of it as it would not have passed another Pa. inspection. They are rust buckets plain and simple and always have been since 2000.
A gM without rust is like a dream
You can spend 100K on a GM and it is wax too. I live in a salty area and they fair out horrible here, it's ridiculous.
Was this resolved? I just picked up a 21 AT4 with 18k miles and it has similar spot rusting. I have limited warranty left so curious hat a path forward could look like
There was a fair amount of rust on my 21 when I bought it at 33k. I plan to have it completely treated inside the frame and out by a local rustproofing provider. It’s another $400 and unfortunate that the OEM doesn’t do a good job at this.
Well I just got mine back from the Dealership yesterday, Oh do I have a story to tell. You are spot on!
Still waiting for the story!
@@jeronhunter4107 Yesterday was the nail in the coffin....the dealer played me well.
Bummer…have you heard of Pro Fleet Care Rust Prevention? They spray our GMs. Works very well. Even over the wax.
we use fluid film on our cars,,,my 92 chevy k1500 has a wax frame,,,the black fluid film looks great...no rust ,,try it
Thanks Craig, I’ll have to check it out if the dealer’s fix doesn’t work
I use it on all my snow plowing equipment it’s the best
I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra with 214000 kms, my dad has a 2015 GMC Sierra with 44000 kms, my truck has very little rust for the year, my dads has quite a bit of rust.
And this is why Toyotas are on the road much longer!
@@CHASING_BUILDS 100 percent, the old chevs were good, the newer ones don’t seem to build as well.
Were you satisfied with dealer's rust repair?
What was the outcome of this rust with the dealer? Did you fix it yourself? Thanks
I noticed the 2016 work truck had rust starting by the pandemic.
Most anything since 2000 has the buffalo so pinched it's yelling.
For sure, its crazy!
Which oil would you recommend for the 3.0?
Tyler, for all of my oil changes on the truck I’ve used the GM recommended oil ACDelco DEXOS-D 0W-20.
This is why I only lease American products
Fords look worse than this sitting on the lot brand new. Get some CRC marine spray. Also, don't swap your differential cover. The flat back covers are not better. Banks did a video on them.
The PPE differential cover for the 3.0 L Duramax is not a flat back.
PPE came out with curved differential covers for many rear differential applications long before Banks.
Greg, thanks man! Well its certainly too late now not to install the Diff Cover as I ordered it about a month ago. I've been waiting to get the truck in the shop for the rust fix. More to follow, once I install the diff. cover, I will see if its any bit worth it.
Not true, at least in my experience. Fords frames are solid when it comes to rust, the only thing that rusts on a Ford from factory is the rear axle for some reason (could be also the supplier issue). I just picked up a 2023 silverado 3.0 duramax and the wax is already peeling in some spots and also my rear axle has some rust on it as it doesn't look like they use the wax on them
I noticed some peeling on my frame, of my 2023 AT4 with only 1800 miles on it and haven't crawled under the truck yet, but now after seeing this I will. Not looking forward to what I might see.
time for film fluid wall mart sells it
Seriously, just FF/Woolwax/Cosmoline your truck..
What happened the videos of installs on the 3.0 duramax?
They are just around the corner! Waiting on a dealership at the moment-on the rust to be resolved. Working on the next video now😁
@@CHASING_BUILDS are you going to do after market under coat protection?
@@nabatron21 I will cover it in the next video but essentially yes!
@@CHASING_BUILDS looking forward to it! I never get undercoat on my vehicles but looks like when I switch to a 24' at4x diesel ill be getting undercoat for sure!
To @cstgx : Dude, not sure who really told you about of such thing of not replacing the differential covers but instead Banks has one, etc, because they did a video on that…, etc..!! I have been changing my differential covers on all my 5 pickup trucks that I have owned among other vehicles in the past 25 years, being all brand new diesel trucks.., mainly RAMs and GMC as well as my 23 Chevy 1500 3.0 LZ0, and all I can tell is that NOT only it is easier and way faster to change the diff fluid, but also has a better cooling design that extends the life of your differential gears overall, AND besides all of that then you don’t have to take the covers off, let alone that these aftermarket majority of these has also a magnetic plug that is way more powerful than the flimsy magnets that are sometimes placed inside by the OEM assembly lines covers apparently, which by the way not all of them comes with any of that at all, except the transmission covers as far as I have seen lately.. Anyway, you don’t have to make a mess each and every time you have to service your differentials and in many cases you have to replace the gasket too… I personally change the diff fluids at or 15k to 20k miles MAX, depending on my driving pattern, meaning towing or not, highway or not, etc… However, all I can tell is that the brand new trucks have a lot of ware and tear in the beginning, and therefore you don’t want these “shaving metals particles” into your gears.. But each and everyone of you are more than welcome to do whatever you want. I alway replace the manufacturer fluid mostly prior to 5k miles or 10k miles, depending on my driving situation as I said.. It is so easy and cheaper for sure, than going into any shop, saving me money and time, as well as I replace the fluids with a way better performance fluid for sure too, and I know for fact that I do it myself while letting the old fluid drain for hours too… NEVER EVER have had ANY issues at all, and my trucks were performing flawlessly, but that is just me and my situations and which can be different than yours out there, I would assume, and in my opinion.. As I said, in my previous post, is that I grease the hell out of my underneath of my each and every truck that I had in particular and I did not see much of ANY rust at all. A pretty tedious job that require a lot of hard labor underneath of your vehicles, if you really want to do it right and correctly, while covering all the metal spots visible with you bare hands. I do NOT recommend doing this as I just did myself, since it can be very dangerous getting underneath of your truck or any vehicles, and therefore without correct precautions and/or equipment it can be very dangerous, basically making sure that you are protected and safe, which I strongly recommend that you take a serious precautions, before you try to imitate what I have done myself, and therefore have that greasing job done preventing any rusty that way, while getting yourself underneath in a reckless fashion and disregarding any of such safety measures in my opinion as I recommended all the time.. However, keep in mind that greasing your underneath of your vehicle can be very dangerous for anyone working under your truck in case the vehicle/truck or any type of vehicle, while having this applied grease, then your vehicle can slip from the lift jacks while being lifted from the ground, and accidents can or will occur from such situations, in my opinion, I would assume.. So, I always remind them (dealerships or any shops), in which I have to go with my vehicles for any recalls for example, or any other work at my vehicles, that I have greased already my undercarriage of my vehicles, all over the place, and the vehicle can slip if lifted from the ground, therefore I encourage them to lift the vehicle just few inches and prevent anyone from being injured instead of going underneath and work at my vehicles, as well as suggest that the mechanics use a dig ground space channel and avoid overall lifting the truck that way, basically using precautions all the time… If that is not possible, or available then I suggest that they use rugs at each and every point of lifting points of the trucks/vehicles, and prevent the vehicles from slipping that way, holding it in place way better, in my opinion as far as I have been doing in the past, and suggesting each and every time.. Mainly the shops take a lot more precautions and secure the vehicles a lot better that way as far as I have seen.. Now, in my case, is that I do almost all of my maintenance of my vehicles for more than 25 years as I rarely go in service with my vehicles at all, unless I have to do recalls, or in some cases rotate the tires, which in most cases the recalls do not require lifting the vehicles from the ground at any higher level, unless any jobs required lifting the vehicle entirely from the ground.. Again, PLEASE use your own judgment/s and do your own research/s before you copy or imitate anyone that is posting comments here or internet, OR anywhere else, since that will be your own choice/s and consequences if any, at any given time, now or in the future, since I strongly encourage you to do that before you engage in the same “presumable strategy while preventing any rust that way”… Moreover, NOTHING I said here and/or commented in general now or in the past should be considered ANY mechanical advice or legal advice whatsoever, since I am NOT any of that at all and in any shape or forms, therefore caution it is recommended and required in my opinion as I strongly recommend once again.. Cheers!
They keep pumpn out shit and never fix nothing.
I own a 2016 high country.
Mine looks 20 years old already.
Por 15
This issue has been going on a LOT longer than a decade. This crap goes back as far as 1987. Fluid film is the answer. Dont undercoat the frame, it will just make it worse.
GMC DOES NOT CARE 🤷✌️🇨🇦🇺🇸
My 1999 Suburban is a rust bucket. I live in California.
Hello to everyone out there, So, regardless of what you generally try to buy these days, then all I can tell is that some of these vehicles regardless the brands, are more or less treated properly, when it comes to the “metal”… you get my point. For example the Volvo brand, as far as I know, (disclaimer: I don’t work for Volvo, nor I get paid to advertise their products,.. I use to own 2 instead), uses about 7 layers of protecting “paint”, or other liquids/fluids/paste, etc, in order to treat the body/metal, including numerous layers of paint. Anyway, in general, the “today’s” vehicles body treatment, should hold pretty well!!??, right!!?? Well, NOT so much, as we all can see. And therefore GM products are NOT unique, pretty much too!!.. Now, I had/owned 28 vehicles in the past 30+ years of my life, and all I can tell is that regardless what vehicles I had, majority brand new, or over 25 to be more exact, were fairly okay even after a few months of owning these, which many will say, ohh wait that was not enough to see rust, but the rust will appear pretty fast in many cases so don’t get foul by that, as it can be seen in this vid, right?!… So, of all of these vehicles that I used to have, or some of them that I owned even over 5 years too, then majority of these did not have this rust issue at all, since I took care of them, and here is what I did guys, basically done to numerous of them, and in particular pickup trucks, as well as SUVs… I bought just regular grease from any general stores, and I, myself, put that grease with my hands underneath the body all over, where I could reach, and see metal.. Or, in some instances I used a brush so that I can put grease in some narrower spaces, etc. you get my point… Moreover, I also pour or by spraying burned engine oil inside the frames of these vehicles as far as I could, of course burned oil fluid that was leaking eventually all over the places from the underneath, and/or where I decided to do the job (own backyard for example), and leave the car over there for few good hours, until the oil drained pretty much all of it out.. Basically, fluids that were mainly drained in some containers ready to hold the leaking oil that was pouring out of the vehicle’s frame/s.. All it does, is to have as much as possible sprayed burned oil inside the frame/s, and the walls of the frame/s as much as possible, therefore preventing rust, besides the grease all over the exterior of the frame/s, and the underneath of the vehicle’s body. Now, have I done a 100% coverage all over these frame/s??, or totally underneath??, most likely not, but a great part that I work on it, and did a tedious job, was worth it, since I rarely have seen ANY rust whatsoever at any of my previous vehicles. NOW, the only thing that I have to do each and every time I have to go in service, and that is ONLY if I have ANY recalls in my case, otherwise I do not go in service with any of my vehicles, since I do myself ALL the maintenance, was that I have to tell the dealership, or any shop, that they have to place a rug on each and every single lift point of touch underneath of my vehicles, and have the grease spot be less slippery that way, otherwise “your car” will fall of the lift jack, and damage your vehicle, I would assume, let alone that is very dangerous in the end, and therefore you don’t want ANY liabilities either… SO, CAUTION, it is required, as well as let the shop know about all of that grease under your car, and that slippery layer of grease can be very uncertain while lifting the vehicle of the ground.. I personally tell the dealership or any shop, to never use a high lift equipment, and/or lift the vehicle off the ground more then a few inches, so that any work can be preformed like tire rotations for example, but preferably any work need to be done in a dig ground space where a mechanic can go, and that the vehicle it is not lifted from the ground at all, avoiding any accidents, just in case.. I know, that is not always possible, but it is highly recommended if you want to avoid accidents, so please use this example as a reference in case you decided to do what I personally did myself and I DO NOT personally recommend to anyone in the first place to do what I have done myself whatsoever, therefore use your OWN judgement before you decide what it is best for you and your car, regardless any experiences of others or examples posted here.. All I can tell, is that I never have any rust as far as I remember, in general, at any of my vehicles that I personally treat them this way. Again, I am strongly encourage each and everyone out there, to make sure that you do your own research and use caution regardless what you do, before you try to imitate me or anyone else out there, since there is a great risk involve, while anyone of you decide of following my example described here, and therefore your decision it is just yours in the end, as well as you will be the one responsible if anything happens. I also strongly encourage each and everyone of you to NOT follow my personal example at all, if you don’t feel comfortable, doing any of that, bottom line, since getting under your car can be totally dangerous too, if you don’t use proper safety precautions or equipment, in order to prevent accidents.. Besides that make sure that your vehicle it is not leaking anymore, so that you are not getting in trouble for pollution and get fined.. All my comments here are just an opinion, and therefor nothing I said here should be considered any advice whatsoever, or an example of how to prevent rust… Please consult an expert before you decide what you want to do in your situation, or best for you, since my comments are just for pure entertainment only and nothing else. Cheers!..