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Did you add the towing mirrors? If so, what was the cost of that option?

Has anyone just removed the valve from the OEM block and tried it? Seems like less aftermarket parts is better. Imagine being on vacation and your trans goes out and you dont have your factory parts to put back on before the truck is towed to the dealer. They see the ppe block and can blame your trans failure on the block not allowing the trans to get to "operating temperature" An $80 part could cost you thousands if still under warranty. Out of warranty is on you either way.

To @cstgx : Dude, not sure who really told you about of such thing of not replacing the differential covers but instead Banks has one, etc, because they did a video on that…, etc..!! I have been changing my differential covers on all my 5 pickup trucks that I have owned among other vehicles in the past 25 years, being all brand new diesel trucks.., mainly RAMs and GMC as well as my 23 Chevy 1500 3.0 LZ0, and all I can tell is that NOT only it is easier and way faster to change the diff fluid, but also has a better cooling design that extends the life of your differential gears overall, AND besides all of that then you don’t have to take the covers off, let alone that these aftermarket majority of these has also a magnetic plug that is way more powerful than the flimsy magnets that are sometimes placed inside by the OEM assembly lines covers apparently, which by the way not all of them comes with any of that at all, except the transmission covers as far as I have seen lately.. Anyway, you don’t have to make a mess each and every time you have to service your differentials and in many cases you have to replace the gasket too… I personally change the diff fluids at or 15k to 20k miles MAX, depending on my driving pattern, meaning towing or not, highway or not, etc… However, all I can tell is that the brand new trucks have a lot of ware and tear in the beginning, and therefore you don’t want these “shaving metals particles” into your gears.. But each and everyone of you are more than welcome to do whatever you want. I alway replace the manufacturer fluid mostly prior to 5k miles or 10k miles, depending on my driving situation as I said.. It is so easy and cheaper for sure, than going into any shop, saving me money and time, as well as I replace the fluids with a way better performance fluid for sure too, and I know for fact that I do it myself while letting the old fluid drain for hours too… NEVER EVER have had ANY issues at all, and my trucks were performing flawlessly, but that is just me and my situations and which can be different than yours out there, I would assume, and in my opinion.. As I said, in my previous post, is that I grease the hell out of my underneath of my each and every truck that I had in particular and I did not see much of ANY rust at all. A pretty tedious job that require a lot of hard labor underneath of your vehicles, if you really want to do it right and correctly, while covering all the metal spots visible with you bare hands. I do NOT recommend doing this as I just did myself, since it can be very dangerous getting underneath of your truck or any vehicles, and therefore without correct precautions and/or equipment it can be very dangerous, basically making sure that you are protected and safe, which I strongly recommend that you take a serious precautions, before you try to imitate what I have done myself, and therefore have that greasing job done preventing any rusty that way, while getting yourself underneath in a reckless fashion and disregarding any of such safety measures in my opinion as I recommended all the time.. However, keep in mind that greasing your underneath of your vehicle can be very dangerous for anyone working under your truck in case the vehicle/truck or any type of vehicle, while having this applied grease, then your vehicle can slip from the lift jacks while being lifted from the ground, and accidents can or will occur from such situations, in my opinion, I would assume.. So, I always remind them (dealerships or any shops), in which I have to go with my vehicles for any recalls for example, or any other work at my vehicles, that I have greased already my undercarriage of my vehicles, all over the place, and the vehicle can slip if lifted from the ground, therefore I encourage them to lift the vehicle just few inches and prevent anyone from being injured instead of going underneath and work at my vehicles, as well as suggest that the mechanics use a dig ground space channel and avoid overall lifting the truck that way, basically using precautions all the time… If that is not possible, or available then I suggest that they use rugs at each and every point of lifting points of the trucks/vehicles, and prevent the vehicles from slipping that way, holding it in place way better, in my opinion as far as I have been doing in the past, and suggesting each and every time.. Mainly the shops take a lot more precautions and secure the vehicles a lot better that way as far as I have seen.. Now, in my case, is that I do almost all of my maintenance of my vehicles for more than 25 years as I rarely go in service with my vehicles at all, unless I have to do recalls, or in some cases rotate the tires, which in most cases the recalls do not require lifting the vehicles from the ground at any higher level, unless any jobs required lifting the vehicle entirely from the ground.. Again, PLEASE use your own judgment/s and do your own research/s before you copy or imitate anyone that is posting comments here or internet, OR anywhere else, since that will be your own choice/s and consequences if any, at any given time, now or in the future, since I strongly encourage you to do that before you engage in the same “presumable strategy while preventing any rust that way”… Moreover, NOTHING I said here and/or commented in general now or in the past should be considered ANY mechanical advice or legal advice whatsoever, since I am NOT any of that at all and in any shape or forms, therefore caution it is recommended and required in my opinion as I strongly recommend once again.. Cheers!

Hello to everyone out there, So, regardless of what you generally try to buy these days, then all I can tell is that some of these vehicles regardless the brands, are more or less treated properly, when it comes to the “metal”… you get my point. For example the Volvo brand, as far as I know, (disclaimer: I don’t work for Volvo, nor I get paid to advertise their products,.. I use to own 2 instead), uses about 7 layers of protecting “paint”, or other liquids/fluids/paste, etc, in order to treat the body/metal, including numerous layers of paint. Anyway, in general, the “today’s” vehicles body treatment, should hold pretty well!!??, right!!?? Well, NOT so much, as we all can see. And therefore GM products are NOT unique, pretty much too!!.. Now, I had/owned 28 vehicles in the past 30+ years of my life, and all I can tell is that regardless what vehicles I had, majority brand new, or over 25 to be more exact, were fairly okay even after a few months of owning these, which many will say, ohh wait that was not enough to see rust, but the rust will appear pretty fast in many cases so don’t get foul by that, as it can be seen in this vid, right?!… So, of all of these vehicles that I used to have, or some of them that I owned even over 5 years too, then majority of these did not have this rust issue at all, since I took care of them, and here is what I did guys, basically done to numerous of them, and in particular pickup trucks, as well as SUVs… I bought just regular grease from any general stores, and I, myself, put that grease with my hands underneath the body all over, where I could reach, and see metal.. Or, in some instances I used a brush so that I can put grease in some narrower spaces, etc. you get my point… Moreover, I also pour or by spraying burned engine oil inside the frames of these vehicles as far as I could, of course burned oil fluid that was leaking eventually all over the places from the underneath, and/or where I decided to do the job (own backyard for example), and leave the car over there for few good hours, until the oil drained pretty much all of it out.. Basically, fluids that were mainly drained in some containers ready to hold the leaking oil that was pouring out of the vehicle’s frame/s.. All it does, is to have as much as possible sprayed burned oil inside the frame/s, and the walls of the frame/s as much as possible, therefore preventing rust, besides the grease all over the exterior of the frame/s, and the underneath of the vehicle’s body. Now, have I done a 100% coverage all over these frame/s??, or totally underneath??, most likely not, but a great part that I work on it, and did a tedious job, was worth it, since I rarely have seen ANY rust whatsoever at any of my previous vehicles. NOW, the only thing that I have to do each and every time I have to go in service, and that is ONLY if I have ANY recalls in my case, otherwise I do not go in service with any of my vehicles, since I do myself ALL the maintenance, was that I have to tell the dealership, or any shop, that they have to place a rug on each and every single lift point of touch underneath of my vehicles, and have the grease spot be less slippery that way, otherwise “your car” will fall of the lift jack, and damage your vehicle, I would assume, let alone that is very dangerous in the end, and therefore you don’t want ANY liabilities either… SO, CAUTION, it is required, as well as let the shop know about all of that grease under your car, and that slippery layer of grease can be very uncertain while lifting the vehicle of the ground.. I personally tell the dealership or any shop, to never use a high lift equipment, and/or lift the vehicle off the ground more then a few inches, so that any work can be preformed like tire rotations for example, but preferably any work need to be done in a dig ground space where a mechanic can go, and that the vehicle it is not lifted from the ground at all, avoiding any accidents, just in case.. I know, that is not always possible, but it is highly recommended if you want to avoid accidents, so please use this example as a reference in case you decided to do what I personally did myself and I DO NOT personally recommend to anyone in the first place to do what I have done myself whatsoever, therefore use your OWN judgement before you decide what it is best for you and your car, regardless any experiences of others or examples posted here.. All I can tell, is that I never have any rust as far as I remember, in general, at any of my vehicles that I personally treat them this way. Again, I am strongly encourage each and everyone out there, to make sure that you do your own research and use caution regardless what you do, before you try to imitate me or anyone else out there, since there is a great risk involve, while anyone of you decide of following my example described here, and therefore your decision it is just yours in the end, as well as you will be the one responsible if anything happens. I also strongly encourage each and everyone of you to NOT follow my personal example at all, if you don’t feel comfortable, doing any of that, bottom line, since getting under your car can be totally dangerous too, if you don’t use proper safety precautions or equipment, in order to prevent accidents.. Besides that make sure that your vehicle it is not leaking anymore, so that you are not getting in trouble for pollution and get fined.. All my comments here are just an opinion, and therefor nothing I said here should be considered any advice whatsoever, or an example of how to prevent rust… Please consult an expert before you decide what you want to do in your situation, or best for you, since my comments are just for pure entertainment only and nothing else. Cheers!..

I pull about the same weight travel trailer and my 2021 sips def. I actually took it back to the dealer to test the def system because I saw others complain about the heavy def consumption.

Why not just remove the valve out of the OE block?

Great truck I have a 21 AT4 with the 3.0 Diesel and keep getting the crank no start condition and I don't like the way the 10 speed shifts and downshifts.

They keep pumpn out shit and never fix nothing. I own a 2016 high country. Mine looks 20 years old already.

A gM without rust is like a dream

What???? Rust on a chevy. How can this be

Thank you for your fast response, I will call them back. 👍

I just got my PPE valve from American trucks, but it didn’t come with any hardware. I called them and they said the bender sent them without it. Am I supposed to get my own hardware?

I have the same truck and engine. Almost at 60k miles and it’s been flawless. I’ve had a pulsar on it for a while, which only increased the performance and drivability. It’s a great truck, it will stay with me.

The LZ0 is now a $2500 option 😮

Questions, 1. Are you using the block heater? 2. Did you pay the sticker price? Will you lose your warranty if you install after market parts? Thank you for going over your aftermarket parts AFTER YOUR REVIEW of the truck!!!!

Was this resolved? I just picked up a 21 AT4 with 18k miles and it has similar spot rusting. I have limited warranty left so curious hat a path forward could look like

Great video! The baby duramax is top of my list for my next truck but being in Canada I’m nervous of def in the cold. Hearing there is a heater in the def tank gives me confidence - thanks! The only extra winterization I’ve done to my 6.7 Cummins is a noco battery maintainer and I’d highly recommend. Diesels use up a lot of battery power and your charging system can’t always top it up, especially in the cold.

@chasing_builds I just bought a 23silverado with the 3.0l. Took it on the highyway in -20deg temps and I was struggling to get the cabin temps to warm up. I tried the auto setting, manual fan settings, recirc on/off , etc. It was putting out luke warm air. Engine temp was normal. I called the dealership and they said they have had a rash of both gas and diesel trucks coming in because of the cold temps, complaining of the same issue. They told me to get a winterfront for it but GM doesn't make a factory one for these trucks. After watching your video you mentioned you had one but it didn't work. Not sure which route to take now. Which brand did you use?

Says unplug b4 starting in the manual

use the STL010 for the real patented fix. SURE~COOL for the win, keep the bypass working if needed. kink a line and see how hot your unit gets.

You know that rear differential cover is not going to do a single thing right? If anything it will cause your fluid to foam.

Were you satisfied with dealer's rust repair?

Awwwwww it’s a baby diesel 😂

Thank you for the great information..

Bullet antenna

I'm in the NWT, I have added 2x battery heaters and an oil pan heater in addition to the stock block heater. My truck fires up no issues everytime and there's been a few nights I've forgotten to plug it in at -40 over night and it will fire up everytime. It's a 2020 2500HD, I do have the active grill shutters and in town it maintained heat in the cab but on some longer road trips when temps were in the -30's or lower it did have a bit of an issue getting really hot in the cab so I've got a winter front for it this year. No issues with the DEF system. I kept my tank slightly lower than 1/2 full and had no limp mode issues.

Every diesel truck when you're towing goes through def like crazy. I hauled R VS for a living and I drive a semi they all do it.

Super informative, great video thanks

What was the outcome of this rust with the dealer? Did you fix it yourself? Thanks

Will this help with check engine light code p0747

my lz0 region every 150 miles 🤨

I would have loved if you would have shown the vehicle load and tow ratings from the drivers door jamb sticker. Unless that truck has the Max Tow package you appear to be way over the tow rating. Most trucks I've see without it have a maximum trainer rate of 8.800 lbs with a 880lb max tongue weight.

Do you know of anyone that has these in stock at this time

This is such a shame. In my opinion, the GMC Sierra is the best looking truck today. The 3.0 Duramax is very interesting to me. My local dealer has 22 of these on the lot. Well, Chevy and GMC but I just see a lot of issues from the DEF to transmissions and loud suspension clunks. The tailgate is incredible but no, my insincts tell me stay away.

This issue has been going on a LOT longer than a decade. This crap goes back as far as 1987. Fluid film is the answer. Dont undercoat the frame, it will just make it worse.

Why not just remove spring in stock part

Omg i don’t think I’m going to up grade to 3.0 To fix gmc Shit 😮🙏✌️🇨🇦

Por 15

Tighten the service plug before installation.

You should have put bilsten shocks on they ride better

I bought my lml used and put 50 to 60k on it before changing the tranny and the fluid also came out bright red looking brand new like yours.

MY 2013 rusted so badly that I had to get rid of it as it would not have passed another Pa. inspection. They are rust buckets plain and simple and always have been since 2000.

What happened the videos of installs on the 3.0 duramax?

I noticed some peeling on my frame, of my 2023 AT4 with only 1800 miles on it and haven't crawled under the truck yet, but now after seeing this I will. Not looking forward to what I might see.

How many miles on the truck

Did a full weight reduction on a Ecodiesel, I mean everything, mind blowing transformation, fuel milage through the roof, throttle response is violent and the best part the engine oil stays clean incredibly longer. No more empty plastic DEF jugs, no more codes.

Alaska is defiantly the testing ground. 4 years at Eielson... Looking at 2023 for towing a bass boat in the lower 48.

Curious if GM is going to change to the LZ0 new 3.0 duramax in the Yukon, Tahoe and Escalade like they did in the Silverado and the sierra that’s now 305 hp and 495 ftlbs instead of this one with 277 hp and 460 ftlbs

GMC DOES NOT CARE 🤷✌️🇨🇦🇺🇸

Dude, use a real fucking truck if your going to tow. One that has the suspension, power and brakes designed for towing. That matchbox car of a pickup truck your using us designed for being an economic runner, not towing. Buy a 2500/3500 that has the proper drive train and engineering into "working" a truck. Everyday I sit on my porch and watch asshats like you drive by my house towing unsafe loads with vehicles not made to do the task at hand. You will kill somebody when your brakes fail on that 5500 pound toy your driving.