STOKED! Cab Corners & Rockers In the Firewood Square Body. Part 9
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- We are really moving forward with the cab rust repair on the rockers and cab corners in this old Chevrolet square body . Big thanks to all my viewers who make this possible! You guys and gals are amazing !
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Don't forget if you change to LED you likely will have to switch to a LED compatible flasher for your turn signals to work correctly.
That ain't water in the headlight Steevie, Here in Stralia that's called blinker fluid. An important part of older vehicles!
🤔😁
Somewhere on TH-cam there is a video about how to change your blinker fluid.
@@chrisstephens6673 Chris Fixx
That's the first thing i thought of too haha
There's your problem! You have blinker fluid in the headlamp. You should be using lamp oil.
just keep it two tone brown and tan. was one of many of the good things of the ole square bodys. glad to see the old truck being fixed
When you paint the truck I'd stay with the original colors. It's more in keeping with the theme of resurrecting it from the dead, which aims to return it to how it was in its prime. Also , that approach might save a little work with door jambs, etc. Cool video. You obviously picked up some skills in your previous life as an auto body man.
Your wife is gold. She seems more than happy to help out when you need it . I'm sure you already know you got yourself a keeper.
Where I grew up, there was an old bachelor farmer who had returned from WW II with excess backpay. So he bought a new 1949 Ford pickup. He was still driving it at the time of his death in the 1990s. However, he had to enter and exit the cab via the passenger door. The driver's door was tied in place with baling wire. He kept that truck because it still ran. Upon his death, a rather large cash estate was divided between the local hospital, the volunteer fire department and the public library.
It's great to see something old coming back to life. This old truck will give many more years of service.
Awesome body shop tutorial!
It was a beater truck before, and you are creating a "less-beater truck". Thanks, Steve. Saturdays are always a pleasure.
A little "air tool love". My new favorite phrase!
Candy apple red sounds good to me :-)
You, sir, have the patience of a saint. Doing body work ranks right up there with root canals, colonoscopies, and flogging. I admire your determination.
I like the amber glow sealed beam lamps give, true they’re not the brightest but nothing else looks quite like them. Just my take
Whatever you do about the headlights, adjust the angle after installation.
I know you would, Steve (the attention to detail on this 'firewood truck' is above and beyond)! But too many people don't do it.
Thanks for the great video! My advice on color, go back to the factory 2 tone. A color change makes a lot more work. Firewall, etc and etc. Plus, the factory color almost always looks right for the vintage of an old vehicle.
I agree, go with original and clearcoat.
Led bar light across the front
"It really doesn't matter....But it does"....Never a truer set of words spoken!
Steve's next project a scrap metal roll anywhere jib crane instead of using the cherry picker!!! 👈🤓😉👍
Since you live in the land of rust, suggest using weld through primer to give a hint of protection at all the locations where you have ground off the paint and won't be able to reapply paint after the panels are reinstalled. While the seam sealer should do the job, moisture always seams to find a way to attack unprotected steel.
Regarding underbody protection and being thrifty(cheap), take a look at Mustie1's channel on his method of under body protection. He uses a 50-50 mix of bar & chain oil and used motor oil that is sprayed on. While not pretty, the oil attracts a fine layer of dust and does a decent job protecting the frame and body. Any repair work that has to be done in the future is much easier than trying to remove any of the goopy thick type of store bought protection. If any moisture gets behind those systems, it traps it in and just makes the soon to be rust much worse. The oil and dust method can be renewed by spraying more oil over whatever is there and driving over a dusty road. Not sure where you would find a dusty road though.
Love the progress on getting the old girl back in condition.
I use linseed oil, as it will eventually polymerise to a hard coating, and really creeps into places between the panels and seams. Surface rust it stops dead, and is cheap.
@@SeanBZA - Do you use 'Raw' linseed oil or "Boiled' linseed oil? They're side by side at the hardware store.
For the rockers you can also spray that up inside of them and it protects the metal from the back side. that's what causes these to rust out, and filling the cavity with an oil film keeps it from rusting out as quickly.
@@flick22601 I have used both, but the boiled one has less water in it, so polymerises easier, plus it smells less. They both will polymerise, and will eventually harden.
I spray rustoleum cold galvanize paint over all surfaces that don't get exterior paint. Inside panels before welding them on and than on inside areas before seam sealer
Regarding your front lights: If you don't want to drive around in the darkness only equipped with something equivalent to a candlelight, I would highly suggest you ditch the sealed beam lights and get some projector lights, either Xenon or even LED. Or look out for some universal fit euro spec halogen lights with H7 bulbs.
Secondly, you should upgrade the wiring to the lights and the switches, maybe even consider a relay upgrade, so you get less voltage loss at the light fixtures.
Relay upgrade means: Your switches only switch the relays, and the relays, with new, thicker wiring and seperate fuses, switch the bulbs.
Usually that makes a difference like day and night.
I’ve found it to be an either/or thing. If you install LEDs they take so much less current and have their own dc:dc converters that the voltage drop doesn’t affect them. If you go back to halogen, then a headlight wiring bypass makes a huge difference. I usually do motorcycles, and they usually run all the headlight current through the handlebar switch. Awful design.
The problem that most people don’t think about with LED headlights is that they use so little current that they don’t heat up like an incandescent bulb. That’s fine if you live in an area where you never see snow. Especially wet snow. It will build up on the face of the light and LEDs don’t produce enough heat to melt it off. Kinda defeats the whole point of having brighter lights.
@@notajp th-cam.com/video/GiYO1TObNz8/w-d-xo.html
@@notajp th-cam.com/video/GiYO1TObNz8/w-d-xo.html
@@notajp Do a search here on TH-cam for a video called “the problem of ‘but sometimes” as it directly addresses this issue.
LED on all the lights there Steve. I promise, you will be much happier
!
i see this truck sparkled candy red ,like in the 70's. good job!
Sheet of carboard, best matt invented by man ever.
Awesome video and work as per usual Steve 👍🏻. I recon gray would look good .
LED lights too.
Always been a fan of flat black for a restoration of this caliber. 👍🏼
Nothing wrong with the original colors. Body work is awesome. I’m thinking you could use a much bigger shop. Won’t be long before you’re son will be bringing in his project truck(s) or vintage muscle car. ;)
Red! Always go with red! Red RULES! :)
It might not be a ‘Show Vehicle’, but your idea of ‘close enough’ when fitting those panels almost makes it one. Nice attention to detail - as always. Nice to see Elizabeth helping out again too!
Machinists have a completely different idea of what close enough is than the rest of us.
Perry, I have been chuckling with all the repairs Steve has been doing, thinking if only ALL the professionals we get to do work for us used the "close enough principal" their would be no longer built in obsolescence in our life.
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Outstanding video...you do amazing stuff that most of us would never attempt...your skills and determination are world class.
Paint it the bottom tan. Matches the interior and still hides home bodywork. cool project.
A big YES on LED lights - maybe even a light bar?
the thing I enjoy with your videos is I never notice the passing of time while watching. I see you start wrapping up and think, man that was a short one, then check the time on the video and 38 minutes has gone by. Thanks Steve, always a pleasure to watch.
Not everybody has such a lovely helper/barista. lol
You tha man Steve! Thank you for taking the time to regulate the volume on loud tools, much appreciated. Watch Wes Work has shown those lights, he uses them but has shown the hinge is prone to breaking.
I’ve had one for almost two years. No problems yet….
Steve go for LED lights all around like you said brighter and last longer as for paint raptor liner all truck battleship grey awesome job you doing there mate 👍
Thanks Steve
YOU ROCK!!!
been delaying watching this. Until you said " I am really into this", I was wondering exactly why you are fixing this truck up. You nailed it. You have a labor of love situation with which I identify on many levels. This series of videos and the truck itself are classic. You are showing just what is takes to fix a truck right. Keep on keeping on. I am in with you now.
Paint that son-of-a-gun RED !! Drive it proudly.
Dark midnight blue, with silver trim.....🍁
I see a nice metalic dark candy red with a metalic gunmetal grey wide stripe between the side body trims, Great vids thanks 👍🏻
I like blue and silver or all blue, look at the old pictures of original silverado’s. The 78 Silverado we had was a dark green color.
Replace the headlights with LED if anything close is available. Also by far the easiest way I’ve found to remove trim is by sawing through the tape holding it on with fishing line. Also for paint, TCP Global sells a 2 part DIY bedliner kit in a bunch of different colors.
I was going to say the same thing... but I looked first and sure enough you brought up the bedliner. A solid work truck needs all over protection.
Led conversion all around. That is the plan for my 87.
I agree with others, repaint it in the same colors. It's a good color combination for the age of the truck and it will save work on door jambs, interior panels, under the hood, etc.
Switch to LED headlights and running lights. The brightness is amazing and the lack of worry about them breaking is great.
Looking good Steve! As far as patch panels go, I have used the ones from Tabco in Ohio. They are made very heavy and the fit has always been light years ahead of others I have used. I would put some access holes in the backsides of your new panels with plugs to fit for rustproofing after you paint. Either get some Fluid Film or mix up some boiled linseed oil and give'r the beans anywhere you can. Yes, go with LED lighting, you won't be sorry. LMC truck, I think, still has the replacements to fit your truck, or you can probably find ones elsewhere to fit. As far as color goes, not much goes with brown interior other than brown. I tend to like the factory two tone color scheme with the chrome moldings around the beltline. Base/clear is the only paint I use as it is much easier to put on with much less overspray mess. It's nicer for two tone jobs because of the dry times involved with masking and all that. Price, of course, is much more for quality paint, but you get what you pay for. I'm sure you already know all of this having done this type of work before Steve.
Looking good. Really enjoying the progress.
Must be someone out there that could donate you a new/recon engine for the beast? awesome series I'm really enjoying, thankyou Steve & family.
I'd go back with the original colors . That's my favorite color scheme on those trucks . I had a solid black one but I think the two tone will look so much better
Two tone red and white. Like an old 70's Honda cb 350 gas tank. Snazzy. : )
I would go for an led version of those headlights if they exsist which i am sure they do.
Waxoil your repairs to preserve them internally
Go for "The Fall Guy" truck with the stunt man association logo on the hood and all the accessories that made it awesome.
One of my best friends in high school had the same model truck with the same paint scheme. Good memories for sure. Keep it the original colors, it looks good on that body style.
Excited for this project!
Steve,I thiink you approaching this project with the proper amount of TLC it deserves and still being practical.l. Headlights I agree with Wiedapp as to color she should be black on black. Keep on smiling.
Go on Steve paint it Pink you know you want to 😁
Great job so far but missing your machines
Mick
Nicely done Steve . I think your idea of a resto-retro rod with up dated lights is great . Pick a new color and people will think you bought a new truck . Keep up the good work .
I have 6 of this cab corners and rocker jobs under my belt , and your right . They do not fit well. Yours look good and honestly I feel the same as you. Its good enough. The difference between your truck and a "show truck" is more filler.
Great job so far and plenty more still to go.
Re the flooded headlight, keep it and modify into a mini aquarium…
… just a thought.
I two-toned my all black 75 Ramcharger(with 78 trim). Gloss black top & bottom, with red garnet pearl metallic for the middle. It came out strikingly beautiful. I had a couple different people, driving by my house who saw it parked in the driveway, stop and compliment me on the paint.
Use the same colors of the square body truck on the TV show the fall guy. That was sharp!
Thank you for sharing. Great job Steve, better than good enough.
Loving the series Steve
Paint job? Where you have chocolate brown, recoat it with a middle to darker blue metal flake paint. Where the cream paint is, paint it a deep glossy black, with several coats of clear coat overall. The paint will look deep enough that it will feel like you could dip your hand *into* it, and darker blue and black is a marriage made in heaven!
Tangled grinder cords are like tangled climber’s ropes. Climbers called the prevention of tangling “spaghetti management”.
Really i am blown away at what you are doing. When i said the engine would still be going after the rest of truck rusted away, I had no idea what was in store for the dear old thing!
I have no idea about headlights but probably get ones with no water included hehe and for the colour; what about just clear coat so you can see that hardship the truck has endured but you can also see that it has been given some care and attention. Hah I don't know...
It doesn't matter... But it does ;)
I put my vote in for the factory two-tone paint. Stock never goes out of style.
Thanks for sharing!
Good job Steve!
I had a 78 Chevy in high school, it was in ok shape then but the tail gate need replaced. So I built one out of square tube and expanded metal and loved it. I kept that truck till the cab rusted so bad that it saged on both sides of the frame.
Hi Steve! Always a pleasure watching you! My dad was into cars and trucks and when I see you working on this stuff I just get so happy! Great video! Happy thanksgiving to you Elizabeth and the kids!
Two tone blue and blue, make the top of the cab the light color and it wont get as hot sitting in the sun. Would look good with matching LED accents in the lights, whichever color you pick. A bed light on the back of the cab would be handy to see what you are doing in the dark.
I would definitely run the led headlights in your truck!! That is what I’m going to run in mine!! They are much brighter!!
Mr. Summers, well done. Above all, the metal work well explained. Thumbs up. I've been following your channel for a while now and I'm thrilled with how diverse you are. Starting with shop building, roofing, maintaining your machines and now restoring the Chevrolet Truck. I am thrilled, you have one fan more.
Kind regards from Germany
Original colours suit the truck. To me, there are two options for the style of truck colours. Blue and white or the brown and beige. Great vid again. Well done.
is " Browen " a mix of Brown & Green?? 😉
@@garymallard4699 Well spotted. :)
@@ianallen2
i miswrite too!! and misspell!!
🙊
@@garymallard4699 I can spell. I was top in my class at school in the 70's, but on a keyboard, my fingers cant spell. lol. Sometimes, my fingers dont hit the keys I want them to. Thats my story and I am sticking to it. lol.
@@ianallen2
wasn't dissing you man
we all miss type on comments
for many reasons
not trying to attack you
as i said...i do it too
i can spell
i finished school
lol
Thank you for sharing!!
That's always great content 👍
You asked for headlight recommendations. I put LED replacements from SuperBrightLEDs in Earth City, MO in my 1989 F150, 1998 Crown Vic, and 1999 Ranger. Makes a huge difference driving at night for my old eyes, and draws less power from the electrical system.
Does it make everyone else on the road in a 3 mile radius around you angry though? Usually those aftermarket LED replacements are hell for anyone facing you on the road - I HATE people with "low beams" aimed directly into my pupils.
@@gorak9000 that also happens with brand new vehicles I find as well here in the UK
Sometimes you just have to play the cards your given .. that ole truck is coming along nicely
Brings back a lot of memories. Ate a lot of rust at the body shop back in the day. Remember the Chrysler K-cars. They had no inner fenders, and the cheap metal of the fenders would rust out in a heartbeat, if not heavily undercoated. We always wanted o do a Red Oxide primer under clear coat, but never did. Always thought that would look good. Thanks for sharing.
Steve awesome work done on the nice old square body truck that is definitely coming back into popular demand for sure!! The old square body Chevy and GMC are one of my favorite body style trucks ever besides the 1967-1972 Chevy trucks!! Witch I only have one 1969 Chevy pickup and have had it ever since 1997 and have been going threw it ever since!! But the square body trucks I have 5 or 6 of them witch are all 1TON 4x4 with the best sm465 manual tranny and 205 transfer cases!! The newest one I have gotten is a 1981 Chevy 1Ton 4x4 SRW witch was ordered new by a local fire station!! It’s a pretty nice truck other than the yellow paint that they had painted over the original white paint that it came in!!! I absolutely love this truck!!
Hey Steve ! You are right full of good tidbits for us today. As I try and stay away from anything thinner than 10 ga (1/8th in) you are making body work look reasonably painless. Actually 1/4 in and thicker (2 in) is my comfort zone. You sure have a great shop hand there my friend. Good welder and all round mechanics are hard to come by as I am sure you know eh. Although LED's are nice and bright (sometimes too bright) they do not create any heat. Up here where we have freezing temps for 7 months regular lighting is preferred as with tail lights esp they melt the snow and ice from them. LED headlights are nice but particularly hard on the oncoming drivers eyes. I really think for a fella that is normally used to working to the tenths scale you are rocking this project old friend. Take care and have a great week !
Steve thats really much better than most home body work, youve really put the effort in and restored structure water tightness and integrity not just slapped outer panels on with rivets and sealer--lol Looks really good, some body shops dont do as well unless you pay big $$$$$.Yknow its funny, back in the day those old sealed beams were like $12 apiece, but now that theyre not common anymore theyre asking stupid money. My old '89 caprice took those type sealed beams and I had to buy one, cost me like $12.99, no reason other than not being common anymore for them to be expensive. Far as color ive always heard it said white hides a lot of imperfections and its the cheapest paint color to buy, but shows dirt - black shows every iimperfection. If you want your biggest bang for buck color impact red is always an obvious choice but as always personal taste comes into play. Nice work steve really.
The problem with red, it fades faster than any other color.
Get LED headlights for sure if they make them. Worth the money. Definitely keep the original two tone and if you could have resto-mod two tone even better. Also think about getting those engine problems fixed. Having something dependable that you don’t have to worry about is a blessing.
Good work, Steve. Happy Thanksgiving to the Summers family.
Either original colors or primer gray. Great project. Thanks as always for sharing.
Steve you do amazing body work!! I’m meticulous in everything I do no matter what it is. I see that you are absolutely meticulous in all that you do also. Even if you say it’s good enough. It looks great and really enjoy watching the come back of your truck.
You need a good floor jack for hanging those doors, makes it an easy one man job. Enjoyed your video. You're pretty decent body man for a machinist lol. I did auto body work back in the late 70's early 80's before going into field service work. Seems like you never get it out of your blood.
I use an office chair. It's height adjustable and nice and soft to not damage the door panel.
@@BajaBill7 I guess that would suffice, I could use my foot to raise the floor jack to align the door
yep anything on wheels and adjustable makes life easier...
i usually work alone ( preference ) and figure out a solution to a simple job... a scissor jack and some lumber or tubing and casters and clamps and your hanging heavy doors without strain.... or damage
Fall camo paint job looks good on Chevy to me. But its what you like ..Great job on the body work so far.
On the square body trucks getting the cab corners and next those front fenders to line up with all the body lines is tuff . Looks like you got it handeld about as well as ive seen anybody do . still love the Bluegrass music keep pluggin away it will be done before you know it . PS. also a solid cordoven brown truck would be cool .
At least this is not another one of the "will it start videos". This is more of a true restore video. There was not any poring or oil or some other liquid down spark plug holes, priming carburetors, etc that you see on most of these type videos. Keep up the good videos, I can't wait to see what next.
RE: The headlight, look into LEDs. They're brighter and last longer.
Dan from Moscow, ID
Steve, if the truck was mine I would paint it back the factory color, remember you're bringing an old truck back from the dead so make it better than it was from the factory. lol.
Hi Steve, another tip, fitting doors on your own, set the door hinges to door open position wind the window down, place your shoulder under the top of the window opening, standing on the inside of the door, lift into position and with one hand fit to top bolt, you will be surprised how easy it is to get the door in the correct position to start the bolt.
Bigclive brought me to this channel to watch your shop renovations but I dig this a lot more. I really like the truck and it's been a real treat to watch it getting a good makeover. For the colors I'd stick at least close to the original. Also I'd take some spray wax to those cavities, like the rockers and the new fenders. Would be a shame if they started rusting all too soon again, now that they're all new and shiny.
When I was in the aftermarket import world, we found assemblies that looked just like the originals but allowed a replaceable bulb. I believe my Camaro used H7 lamps. They look factory until you turn them on.
I've done several of these over the years and it's relatively the same process for different year trucks I've had a couple of the late 50s trucks I've had a couple of the late 60 trucks and the '70s and the '80s and providing you can get the repair panels it's not all that hard of a job it's tedious but when it's finished and you put that layer of paint on it and you can't tell that it was done???? Priceless
Nice work on fitting that mis-sized panel!
I would go for full LED all around, keeps the vintage spirit with a modern touch.
For colours, I would suggest to keep that two tone layout, but instead of that choco/vanilla I would go for black and dark silver/gun metal!
Thx for the vid!
I like the gun metal grey. I was thinking along those lines.
Red with a flat or matte clear coat. Would go well with the interior
Two tone, Goodwood green and cream!
Good results this week Steve. You are building a solid and useable truck. As for paint, I would go with the factory colours. It's understated and suits the type of vehicle. I'm not sure what headlamps are available, but if there is a halogen conversion that uses H4 or H1 bulbs it will be better than the sealed beams. LEDs or HID systems work well but are probably not in keeping with a 40 year old work truck.
Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire, UK.