As I've gotten older, anytime I have to work on something, I do my best to make sure I won't have to mess with it for as long as possible. When I was a younger fella and I had tons of time, ambition and loads of extra energy, I would cobble things together, "experiment" with fixes and do enough to get something working and that was good enough. Nowadays, enough things break down, that I'm not into gambling with fixes. I take my time, do it "right" (or whatever works best for my application) and go from there.
Steve, glad to see your post today. Funny how we the subscribers allow you to come into our homes every Saturday morning and miss you when you don’t post. Thanks for the great content! Love watching your stories and videos. 🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
As a NDE Teck, I would also like to add to the comment below that talks about holding the magnet in contact with the part. The next point would be to apply the powder with a puffer ball (applicator ) while the magnet is energized. So the steps would be to hold the magnetic yoke to the part energize the yoke dust the iron powder above the part (as the powder falls it will be attracted to indication). Deenergize the yoke, place the yoke 90 degrees from the previous position energize and apply the power. Avoid dragging the magnet when the yoke is energized as this will cause the iron powder to stick to the part and may mask indications. I hope that this help Mag particle testing is a very effective test when performed correctly.
It's nice to see you have some Swedish Strands drillpress quality in your workshop. Strands is a company that have been around for more than 100 years and still exists here in Sweden.
That is why America is going further from the true workmanship that we are capable of doing...Trading with China, Japan, and the middle east. It's a shame but it is true. Guys like Steve show what we are capable of doing Old school so to speak.
Time is approaching for the magical rebuild of the truck and The mill .What better for us ,the audience ,now that winter is nigh --at least here in UK ,Thanks Steve
When you do a repair yourself you know the quality of the parts going in and the workmanship of the assembly. In the end you know exactly what you have .
For what it is worth, I agree with the direction you are going on the truck axles! The mill parts look fantastic! Awesome score on the drill press! You are blessed with fantastic friends! Don't worry about a late drop on a video! I know most of us appreciate your videos whenever they appear. Thank You!
One trick that has never failed me when using a bearing puller, is to smack the end of the pulling screw when under pressure, and it always seems to get the stuck bearing loose.
Funny, just the other day was watching a co worker heat a ball joint with oxy acetylene to red hot after me warning him about how its going to explode from the grease trapped under it and nowhere to go.. and just as the boss walks out i grab him and pull him behind the truck im standing behind watching, i point to ole buddy as he takes a welding pick hammer and wops it one time and damn thing explodes in a huge fireball.. big enough to cause the nitro filled shock to burst and shoot a stream of oil which itself looked like a flame thrower.. dude luckily was wearing his leather smock and electricians gloves with safety glasses. Still burned his eyebrows off and second degree burns on his face . Torched the leathers stiff.. and get this, before even checking if dude was ok mr boss ass started on me saying I put him up to it and blah blah your putting peoples lives in danger blah blah your fired blah.. all as i was blowing up myself laughing while ole buddy just walked around in a circle saying holy shit holy shit holy lord jesus shit.. lol.. before buddy drove to the hospital he told boss thAti had nothing to do with that and i even warned him about it and how he was stupid.. boss never apologized.. if i were a worse man i would have his job or break his jaw but all in a work day. Everything was ok.. no lives or limbs were lost..
Giving stuff a smack at the right time is always useful ! put a wheel on, tighten the nuts, give the wheel a couple of smacks, see how tight the wheel nuts are now !
Did you mention what brand of puller you were using? If that was a Hazard Fraught puller, that would go a long way to explaining why the bolts were bending and it wasn't working. I paid a little extra years ago, and bought an OTC puller, which has never failed me yet. When I was working in a machine shop with my brother-outlaw, I've seen him, multiple times, use a cutting torch to cut off pressed on bearing races, with nary a mark on the parent bearing surface. It's pretty amazing.
Hats off to Al. Al your a good man and friend to Steve. Steve, I'm just like you. Do it right or don't do it at all is my motto. Currently upgrading my 06' Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 5.9L diesel front axle to a 4.10 after having done the same to the rear previously. It was a 3.73, but I added 35s and this ratio is ideal. Also did the same on my TJ Jeep. Went from 3.73 to 4.56 on front Dana 30. Doing the same to a hard to find, but I found one, a Dana 44 Rubicon with disc brakes to replace my Dana 35 on my 97' TJ. Thanks for your videos sir!
on the mag-particle we have at my work you have to touch the part with the tool in order for it to work properly, maybe this is different but that's my experience. Great video thanks for entertaining me every Saturday morning
For MPI testing the yoke needs to be in contact with the body for best result, also using an X pattern along the way is even better. This method is used for testing offshore tools for cracks and nevere fails. When the yoke do not have contact with the body as it is designed for, the magnetic field will be weak.
I'm glad that I was not the only one to notice that. I have had literally hundreds of mag particle inspections on my work over the years (I am a welder by trade) and I have never seen any NDE tech hold the yoke above the item. It has to be in contact with the surfaces. With pressure piping you have to go across the weld and then inline with the weld having on leg on one side of the weld and the other leg one the opposite side.
I’ll second that as well. The field has to be induced into the part. Can’t do that through the air. The particles align with the field in the part that has been disrupted by a crack. MP techs are trained for a reason :).
Way back in the day, i did a lot of magnaflux crack checking mostly on cylinder heads. We didn't have an electromagnet and yes, the magnet was always in contact with the iron.
I find it preferable to grind a flat into a stuck bearing race ,rather than cutting into it. As the flat thins out the material and approaches cut through, the bearing material at the flat heats up ,oxidises and goes blue,so you can stop before the grinder hits the bearing seat.
+1 Also you can grind right up to the seat face clearly. Using a circular disc perpendicular you have to leave the thickest part intact or risk cutting into the seat face
Your really blessed to have a friend like Al. And Al us viewers really appreciate what you do for others you have your whole life to contend with and you go out of your way to help others may God bless you seven fold buddy
Yes Steve, pulling a trailer, 3.75:1, running around ~3.45:1, best options for 4x4 gearing. I've run all makes, since I was a young lad on the farm, in the late 60's. Best wishes from the far North.
With no overdrive tranny I would keep the 3.08 since it is a 4wd and you can just put it in 4 low when you need slower. You would likely gain 1mpg on the highway versus 3.73. At $4/gallon gasoline that savings adds up quick. if it was a 2wd I would say the 3.73 is the right move but since you have the extra reduction available might as well take advantage of that.
Steve says, "This Diff is screaming don't use me" The TH-cam audience is channeling "Just Use Me Up" like listening to Bill Withers! Because despite the fact I will never do this chore myself, I enjoy the heck out of your content. I had a plumbing chore today, kitchen sink related. I've got the p-trap replaced, ran water through it until no leaks, running the dishwasher as I watch this, because it'll likely put some pressure to ensure no leaks. For those who want to check for a leak on a replaced p-trap, facial tissue under the joint works really well.
Great find on the drill!! Your shop is becoming so well-equipped! Also good to hear the thinking on the axles. Your attention and deliberation seems QUITE reasonable to me with regard to the ratios/performance. If you take your time you'll get a better result. Thanks for sharing all the deliberation with us, it helps me understand what you're doing.
still think a concrete slab and a crane of some sort in front of the shop helps a lot with unloading stuff like those on the trailer or in the back of the truck , it allso alows youre palletstacker to be used outside around a trailer or the pickup for sale.... smaller doal drillpress changing the gears for the ones that are currently in the truck will help keep the speedo display the correct speed too (no need to change the small speedogear inside the gearbox ) with all the stuff youre doing to these axles (replacing all the bearings seals rear diff housing and watnot) it might had been more economic to redo the axles that are currently under the truck at least the ring gears in those are good and the right ratio
Glad you have posted Steve, when you didn't post yesterday I though something was wrong for you or one of your family. I guess it was like the last time when you didn't post at all and you were just so very busy at work and had not had time to do any filming. Anyway I'll watch rest I'd this weeks episode now. The Do All mill parts look really good, Cash made an awesome job of it! As a matter of interest Steve, how much did he take off of the knee eventually? You're quite correct to have done that as you did, as you say all the scoring that's left is only mor oil carrying pockets. Can't wait for you to start the flaking and or scraping that you mean to do and getting it all put together again. At least you have video footage of you tearing it down to reference to. And a big thank you to Al for what he did for you in transporting the mill bits to Wisconsin and back. What an awesome friend that man is! Cheers from the UK and stay safe y'all .
The old pinion gear and the new should have a =/- number stamped on them to indicate the machining accuracy of the bearing seat, so you can determine the thickness of the shim to be used on the new. All of them I have ever replaced have that feature.
This is true, sometimes. Also, it may have been helpful to rig up a depth mike to determine the pinion depth from the centerline of the diff carrier bearing saddles for a potential starting point for calculating the trial shim thicknesses.
Thanks for the tip concerning the Allen wrenches Steve. I don't know why I never thought of it. I have a bunch of misc. Allens & I'm going to make good use of them in the future. Don't know how many times I have ground a special tip on a good chisel and now hardley use the darn thing only to replace the chisel later.
Yeah, I missed you yesterday. God bless and Happy Hallowe'en. Thank you for the videos. Edit: I made a living moving the heavy stuff until my back and knees protested vehemently. It's nice to see someone that knows how. Please be careful. Let the heavy end drag, and drop it unless it'll kill somebody.
Good morning I was wondering if you were so busy with winter coming on to get a video out,a smart move on the gearsets 308gears in my dad's 77were a pain always chocking down in the hay hauling it was a good laugh to see all who tried fail 373 in my sd250was a awesome performer good top end speed and pull anything you want to
I am of the same opinion regarding leaving the score marks on the solid way services. When the bearing surface area is adequate score relief is just more oil relief. I repaired machinery for 34 years and I cannot recall a single occurance where I regretted that decision, assuming the described factors apply.
Great job on the axles so far. You'll probably like the new gear ratios. They're much better for running around on the farm. Also congrats on getting the machine parts back. First chips on the DoAll is gonna be a cool day. 😁 Also like the new song at the end. In my opinion better than the previous, although some may disagree. Great video Steve!
AvE did a vid showing how running a bead of weld round an outer race caused it to shrink and fall clean out of a blind bore when it cooled, pretty damn sure should do same with a stubborn inner race on a shaft.
You were missed yesterday. Glad it was nothing serious. Better safe n correct, than a do over. If you have any thing apart check it all and replace the parts that even look good. There is wear that you can't slways see. Do it right, don't do it over again. You are a smart man Magee. Thanks.
Steve, The word you were searching for when identifying the bearing ID "seat" surface was Journal. I am a big fan of PROTO pullers. The puller jaws slide and position so easily compared to other brands. Thank you for demonstrating the crack inspection methods. I have had this work performed for me, but I have never seen them demonstrated.
Hi Steve and Family! Happy Sunday and Grits !! Glad you and all yours are OK, we missed ya. Thanks again for an instructive, interesting, and fun piece of your life's journey. I agree on the 3:08 gears, I had a car with that ratio, what a dog! Look forward to Steve every Saturday or Sunday, thank you so much for sharing! Yes, Al is a super guy.
Rear end , Steve , I hope you read this as I did this on my old 71 Chevy C-10 and it worked out great. I found in a local junkyard a 3/4 ton Ford van that came from the factory with a Dana 60 rear and many of them come with 3:73 gears in them . The backing plate diminution were the same as the Eaton rear you have now. I picked up the rear complete for 90 dollars after I pulled the inspection cover and everything looked to be good. I did a standard service on the rear (replaced all the seals and rear gasket & lube) . I did have to cut the old leaf spring perch's off the Dana rear and my old Eaton rear as well and weld the Eaton spring perch's on the Dana rear after carefully getting the location & pinion angle on the Dana 60 correct under the truck. They sell a Eaton to Dana rear U joint to put in the driveshaft and from there on it's pretty much a bolt in operation. The beauty part is with the Dana you will be HARD PRESSED to EVER brake that Dana over the Eaton. Bottom line these Dana 60s are very common under Ford & Dodge Trucks and you can find them in good shape pretty dog gone cheap in scrap yards with nothing more then a tape measure and when completed wind up with a very tough rear end for less then a new pair of quality axels ! As I recalled I had to locate a different set of used rims to fit the Dana wheel pattern as the Eaton / Chevy wheel pattern is different but the rims I used under the Dana were on the rear when I bought it out of the Ford Van so all I had to do was install my tires in the Dana rims. I drove that old truck to work for decades with that Dana 60 rear and never had a problem. My old C-10 was stolen about 10 years ago and I never seen the old girl again . I replaced it with a 1970 C-20 truck I drive today and I already found a pair of Dana 60s out of a Dodge power wagon and well replace both of the Diffs in the future under the C-20.
good to see your new drill press , the milling machine on the way back to operating , and you also . was starting to worry , software issues are terrible
Man, I wish I had someone to randomly show up and drop tools off for me! Good call on the diff. You would never have felt safe with that gnawed on G-80, especially if you were asking the truck to do something a bit hard. I like the approach on the axles as well. You aren't going overboard with stuff that will change the character of the truck, but you are going to make them completely trustworthy and reliable.
After seeing the G-80 closer, I agree you probably would always be doubting it. As for gearing, I am sure you will like 3.73s as that is what you already have and are used to them. I have one of the military blazers that these came out of and I have found that 3.08 works well for me. I do a lot of highway driving with a good bit of driving in muddy fields, forest service roads and packed snow. I am perfectly fine with shifting into 4 low on my transfer case when I need lower gearing and getting the better road manners in 2wd. I don't even always get out and lock the hubs, sometimes I just drop the case into low range to creep. Either way I am SURE you will like having a set of axles you know where done right and can trust.
Tip for easy bearing race removal, lay a weld bead on the race with Mig or go around once with the TIG Torch without filler, the race will just fall off.
Hey Steve nice drill press you acquired! I too have had trouble with chips breaking off of cold chisels, one time had bit break off and hit me in the leg and took me little bit to realise there was blood running down my leg and had to use a magnet to find and get the bit of chisel out. Anyway keep up the great work, I love good old vehicle restorations.
I was traveling Saturday, so I never new you were "late." Sorry you're having so much trouble with the rearend. Very nice, new to you drill press. Caused me to commit a couple different sins, envy and jealousy. LOL You follow your gut, as to what you should do with the rearend. Looking forward to the reassembly of the DoAll mill.
Back when I was doing a fair number of ring & pinion setups, I bought two identical rear pinion bearings. Then I honed one of them until it was a light press fit, so I could try different shims to get the pinion depth perfect, before I pressed on the untouched rear bearing for final fitment. If you can, maybe you can make your own or buy the correct pinion bearing spacer, so you don't have to use the collapsing preload spacer. Also, I use artist oil paint, thinned with a few drops of rear axle oil for checking gear pattern for drive/coast sides of ring gear. I prefer "cadmium yellow", but you can use whatever contrasting color you want.
I wish you would’ve mentioned the idea of making punches out of Allen keys earlier. I just threw away a decent pile of old wrenches that I had no use for
Regarding what to do with the axis: I'd say that getting the setup exactly the way you want it will serve you for decades at least, since you maintain your vehicles much better than what was done previously. And getting a new vehicle? It would be outrageously expensive and not be as durable as what you're doing. So I for one think you are making excellent and well-thought-out choices.
Lotta work for an old truck diff.. most country folk would slap some oil thick as honey and a cardboard gasket and run it to the junk pile to find another one for when it craps out on em.. :)
Steve you should have U tubed how to use the mag particle tester. to test you need to be in contact with the part. to demagnetize you hold it off the part.
well down the rabbit hole we go. but I agree, I like older pickups w/out the crew cab better than the new breed of "SUV" like pu. something about a bench seat in a PU... and a full size bed 😊. It's good content too. Can't wait to see you get that mill back together, and the new drill is awesome. You look like the cat that ate the mouse, you were so happy. Al is awesome.. Al, you are a great friend.
I saw that magnetic testing powder come out of a spaypaint can ...earlier...mixed with clear fluid...alcohol or something...works the same way though...checking for "hairlines cracks"...so...
We used the same penetrating spray when checking for cracks in molded white plastic/polymer parts. Didn't need to use the developer because of the base color of the parts. AFAIK the magnetic yoke needs to be in contact with the metal parts to induce the field into the part when doing the other testing. On the other hand, I could be entirely wrong.
I was breaking a race once and shot a chunk into my chest. I thought it bounced off but the next day I had pain still. Stuck a neodymium magnet to my chest and it stuck, so I ran it over the area repeatedly until the magnet was able to pull it out.
When installing the new outer races, I use the bench grinder to reduce the OD of the old outer race enough to make it a slip fit in the housing. That way, you can press on the old race and not risk ruining the new one.
1st Hooray Steve has made it. Steve if you suffer outages too often maybe you want to consider a UPS (uninterupted Power Supply) for your computer, then it will give you a chance to save your work before the computer dies.
Steve, I think you will find that changing gears and setting them up properly isn't as difficult as you may think. Yes, it does take some time. But with a dial indicator, it is easily doable by most anyone that understands what they are doing. JMHO And remember, you are not building a rock climber or mud bogger. You are merely building a work truck!
As I've gotten older, anytime I have to work on something, I do my best to make sure I won't have to mess with it for as long as possible. When I was a younger fella and I had tons of time, ambition and loads of extra energy, I would cobble things together, "experiment" with fixes and do enough to get something working and that was good enough. Nowadays, enough things break down, that I'm not into gambling with fixes. I take my time, do it "right" (or whatever works best for my application) and go from there.
Steve, glad to see your post today. Funny how we the subscribers allow you to come into our homes every Saturday morning and miss you when you don’t post.
Thanks for the great content! Love watching your stories and videos. 🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
If yore looking for a video idea, could you show us the magnetic crack finder working on an item with a known crack? That would be cool.
As a NDE Teck, I would also like to add to the comment below that talks about holding the magnet in contact with the part. The next point would be to apply the powder with a puffer ball (applicator ) while the magnet is energized. So the steps would be to hold the magnetic yoke to the part energize the yoke dust the iron powder above the part (as the powder falls it will be attracted to indication). Deenergize the yoke, place the yoke 90 degrees from the previous position energize and apply the power. Avoid dragging the magnet when the yoke is energized as this will cause the iron powder to stick to the part and may mask indications. I hope that this help Mag particle testing is a very effective test when performed correctly.
It's nice to see you have some Swedish Strands drillpress quality in your workshop.
Strands is a company that have been around for more than 100 years and still exists here in Sweden.
That is why America is going further from the true workmanship that we are capable of doing...Trading with China, Japan, and the middle east. It's a shame but it is true. Guys like Steve show what we are capable of doing Old school so to speak.
My wife and enjoy the song about the seed waiting for the sun at the end. Don't change that, please.
Trick or Treating with Al 👍👍👍
Time is approaching for the magical rebuild of the truck and The mill .What better for us ,the audience ,now that winter is nigh --at least here in UK ,Thanks Steve
When you do a repair yourself you know the quality of the parts going in and the workmanship of the assembly. In the end you know exactly what you have .
I love the idea of content based on a machinist's take on a rear end set up.
For what it is worth, I agree with the direction you are going on the truck axles!
The mill parts look fantastic!
Awesome score on the drill press!
You are blessed with fantastic friends!
Don't worry about a late drop on a video! I know most of us appreciate your videos whenever they appear.
Thank You!
Steve does a wet test to check cracks. I check my crack when it feels wet. Now I know where I am going wrong. Thanks Steve!
Too Much information about your intergluteal cleft. :)
@@nebtheweb8885 Still funny tho...
9:00 Such solid words about the assimilation of knowledge being so great today with the internet.
One trick that has never failed me when using a bearing puller, is to smack the end of the pulling screw when under pressure, and it always seems to get the stuck bearing loose.
Yup, gets the bearing free and staring to move.
Funny, just the other day was watching a co worker heat a ball joint with oxy acetylene to red hot after me warning him about how its going to explode from the grease trapped under it and nowhere to go.. and just as the boss walks out i grab him and pull him behind the truck im standing behind watching, i point to ole buddy as he takes a welding pick hammer and wops it one time and damn thing explodes in a huge fireball.. big enough to cause the nitro filled shock to burst and shoot a stream of oil which itself looked like a flame thrower.. dude luckily was wearing his leather smock and electricians gloves with safety glasses. Still burned his eyebrows off and second degree burns on his face . Torched the leathers stiff.. and get this, before even checking if dude was ok mr boss ass started on me saying I put him up to it and blah blah your putting peoples lives in danger blah blah your fired blah.. all as i was blowing up myself laughing while ole buddy just walked around in a circle saying holy shit holy shit holy lord jesus shit.. lol.. before buddy drove to the hospital he told boss thAti had nothing to do with that and i even warned him about it and how he was stupid.. boss never apologized.. if i were a worse man i would have his job or break his jaw but all in a work day. Everything was ok.. no lives or limbs were lost..
Giving stuff a smack at the right time is always useful ! put a wheel on, tighten the nuts, give the wheel a couple of smacks, see how tight the wheel nuts are now !
Did you mention what brand of puller you were using? If that was a Hazard Fraught puller, that would go a long way to explaining why the bolts were bending and it wasn't working. I paid a little extra years ago, and bought an OTC puller, which has never failed me yet.
When I was working in a machine shop with my brother-outlaw, I've seen him, multiple times, use a cutting torch to cut off pressed on bearing races, with nary a mark on the parent bearing surface. It's pretty amazing.
YEA got my Coffee
Got my You tube.
And Steve is here!!!
Same goes...
Hats off to Al. Al your a good man and friend to Steve.
Steve, I'm just like you. Do it right or don't do it at all is my motto. Currently upgrading my 06' Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 5.9L diesel front axle to a 4.10 after having done the same to the rear previously. It was a 3.73, but I added 35s and this ratio is ideal. Also did the same on my TJ Jeep. Went from 3.73 to 4.56 on front Dana 30. Doing the same to a hard to find, but I found one, a Dana 44 Rubicon with disc brakes to replace my Dana 35 on my 97' TJ. Thanks for your videos sir!
on the mag-particle we have at my work you have to touch the part with the tool in order for it to work properly, maybe this is different but that's my experience. Great video thanks for entertaining me every Saturday morning
For MPI testing the yoke needs to be in contact with the body for best result, also using an X pattern along the way is even better. This method is used for testing offshore tools for cracks and nevere fails. When the yoke do not have contact with the body as it is designed for, the magnetic field will be weak.
I'm glad that I was not the only one to notice that. I have had literally hundreds of mag particle inspections on my work over the years (I am a welder by trade) and I have never seen any NDE tech hold the yoke above the item. It has to be in contact with the surfaces. With pressure piping you have to go across the weld and then inline with the weld having on leg on one side of the weld and the other leg one the opposite side.
I’ll second that as well. The field has to be induced into the part. Can’t do that through the air. The particles align with the field in the part that has been disrupted by a crack. MP techs are trained for a reason :).
I was wondering about that.
Whenever I have had cylinder heads checked, the magnet legs were on the head.
Way back in the day, i did a lot of magnaflux crack checking mostly on cylinder heads. We didn't have an electromagnet and yes, the magnet was always in contact with the iron.
Had to give a pat on the back to Al. Hes the best.
"Filling you full of beans" lol! My dad used to say that when I was a young man and not telling him the whole truth. Great video once again!
“What the world need s now, is Al, more Al….”
I find it preferable to grind a flat into a stuck bearing race ,rather than cutting into it.
As the flat thins out the material and approaches cut through, the bearing material at the flat heats up ,oxidises and goes blue,so you can stop before the grinder hits the bearing seat.
+1 Also you can grind right up to the seat face clearly. Using a circular disc perpendicular you have to leave the thickest part intact or risk cutting into the seat face
Your really blessed to have a friend like Al. And Al us viewers really appreciate what you do for others you have your whole life to contend with and you go out of your way to help others may God bless you seven fold buddy
Man, your boy isn't the boy he was when I started following. He's growing up!
Hi from the UK.
In the 80's I worked for a camshaft manufacturer and used to really enjoy UV dye penetrant testing, yes I know I'm easily pleased! 🤣
i Like how your buddy just walks around with his hands in his pockets. Keep up the good work.
YOU are doing absolutely the right thing on those axles,total rebuild will give you total satisfaction in the long run and it will be a long RUN.
Al needs his own channel....I would follow!!!! What an awesome guy!!!!
Yes Steve, pulling a trailer, 3.75:1, running around ~3.45:1, best options for 4x4 gearing. I've run all makes, since I was a young lad on the farm, in the late 60's.
Best wishes from the far North.
Another week of great content. Great stuff Summer's family. 🙂
Man your sons growing fast, hes sure becoming a capable young man. Good work!
Isn’t it amazing all the tools a machinist has in his shop to do all kinds of jobs.
I like the slip block on the slide hammer! I am going to steal that idea! You still are one of the best do it all channels on the tube! Go Steve!
Phil
Agree 100% on the 3.73 gear ratio. That’s the sweet spot for gear ratios in pick ups. Decent high end and decent low end.
Im enjoying the axle series so far. Looking forward to watching further work done on the old truck in the future.
With no overdrive tranny I would keep the 3.08 since it is a 4wd and you can just put it in 4 low when you need slower. You would likely gain 1mpg on the highway versus 3.73. At $4/gallon gasoline that savings adds up quick. if it was a 2wd I would say the 3.73 is the right move but since you have the extra reduction available might as well take advantage of that.
Thanks Steve.
Steve says, "This Diff is screaming don't use me" The TH-cam audience is channeling "Just Use Me Up" like listening to Bill Withers! Because despite the fact I will never do this chore myself, I enjoy the heck out of your content. I had a plumbing chore today, kitchen sink related. I've got the p-trap replaced, ran water through it until no leaks, running the dishwasher as I watch this, because it'll likely put some pressure to ensure no leaks. For those who want to check for a leak on a replaced p-trap, facial tissue under the joint works really well.
Great find on the drill!! Your shop is becoming so well-equipped! Also good to hear the thinking on the axles. Your attention and deliberation seems QUITE reasonable to me with regard to the ratios/performance. If you take your time you'll get a better result. Thanks for sharing all the deliberation with us, it helps me understand what you're doing.
still think a concrete slab and a crane of some sort in front of the shop helps a lot with unloading stuff like those on the trailer or in the back of the truck , it allso alows youre palletstacker to be used outside around a trailer or the pickup
for sale.... smaller doal drillpress
changing the gears for the ones that are currently in the truck will help keep the speedo display the correct speed too (no need to change the small speedogear inside the gearbox )
with all the stuff youre doing to these axles (replacing all the bearings seals rear diff housing and watnot) it might had been more economic to redo the axles that are currently under the truck
at least the ring gears in those are good and the right ratio
In the first part of this video, I found myself wondering, "How is Steve's buddy Al doing?" Then he showed up. Magic.
Everyone needs a buddy like Al. 🙂
Glad you have posted Steve, when you didn't post yesterday I though something was wrong for you or one of your family. I guess it was like the last time when you didn't post at all and you were just so very busy at work and had not had time to do any filming. Anyway I'll watch rest I'd this weeks episode now. The Do All mill parts look really good, Cash made an awesome job of it! As a matter of interest Steve, how much did he take off of the knee eventually? You're quite correct to have done that as you did, as you say all the scoring that's left is only mor oil carrying pockets. Can't wait for you to start the flaking and or scraping that you mean to do and getting it all put together again. At least you have video footage of you tearing it down to reference to. And a big thank you to Al for what he did for you in transporting the mill bits to Wisconsin and back. What an awesome friend that man is! Cheers from the UK and stay safe y'all .
Those opening shots look like spring. Makes me dread the winter even more...lol
The old pinion gear and the new should have a =/- number stamped on them to indicate the machining accuracy of the bearing seat, so you can determine the thickness of the shim to be used on the new. All of them I have ever replaced have that feature.
This is true, sometimes. Also, it may have been helpful to rig up a depth mike to determine the pinion depth from the centerline of the diff carrier bearing saddles for a potential starting point for calculating the trial shim thicknesses.
Thanks for the tip concerning the Allen wrenches Steve. I don't know why I never thought of it. I have a bunch of misc. Allens & I'm going to make good use of them in the future. Don't know how many times I have ground a special tip on a good chisel and now hardley use the darn thing only to replace the chisel later.
Yeah, I missed you yesterday. God bless and Happy Hallowe'en. Thank you for the videos.
Edit: I made a living moving the heavy stuff until my back and knees protested vehemently. It's nice to see someone that knows how. Please be careful. Let the heavy end drag, and drop it unless it'll kill somebody.
Good morning I was wondering if you were so busy with winter coming on to get a video out,a smart move on the gearsets 308gears in my dad's 77were a pain always chocking down in the hay hauling it was a good laugh to see all who tried fail 373 in my sd250was a awesome performer good top end speed and pull anything you want to
Can't wait to see that milling machine up and running. Huge thanks to your buddy Al for transporting this heavy gear.
I am of the same opinion regarding leaving the score marks on the solid way services. When the bearing surface area is adequate score relief is just more oil relief. I repaired machinery for 34 years and I cannot recall a single occurance where I regretted that decision, assuming the described factors apply.
Looking forward to the builds on these machines! High five to Al!
Great job on the axles so far. You'll probably like the new gear ratios. They're much better for running around on the farm. Also congrats on getting the machine parts back. First chips on the DoAll is gonna be a cool day. 😁 Also like the new song at the end. In my opinion better than the previous, although some may disagree. Great video Steve!
AvE did a vid showing how running a bead of weld round an outer race caused it to shrink and fall clean out of a blind bore when it cooled, pretty damn sure should do same with a stubborn inner race on a shaft.
Why would you think shrinking a race on a shaft would make it looser?
@@philmenzies2477 good point, well made! note to self; step away from the keyboard after the second glass of scotch!
@@philmenzies2477 Well, in Phil’s defense if you run a quick bead round a bearing race, then’s the time to hit it !
I love the new outro music Steve! Thank you :)
I always learn new tricks from you
As a machinist, bad luck and parts breakage are to be avoided. As a Content Creator, those things are a chance to excel at creating great content.
You were missed yesterday. Glad it was nothing serious. Better safe n correct, than a do over. If you have any thing apart check it all and replace the parts that even look good. There is wear that you can't slways see. Do it right, don't do it over again. You are a smart man Magee. Thanks.
Steve,
The word you were searching for when identifying the bearing ID "seat" surface was Journal.
I am a big fan of PROTO pullers. The puller jaws slide and position so easily compared to other brands.
Thank you for demonstrating the crack inspection methods. I have had this work performed for me, but I have never seen them demonstrated.
Hey, the shop is looking good. Question ever think about putting in an overhead crane?
Can’t wait to see that mill go back together,good luck with your truck
I really missed the old closing song, almost learned all the words. Love the content of all your videos, and the killer dog.
Hi Steve and Family! Happy Sunday and Grits !! Glad you and all yours are OK, we missed ya. Thanks again for an instructive, interesting, and fun piece of your life's journey. I agree on the 3:08 gears, I had a car with that ratio, what a dog! Look forward to Steve every Saturday or Sunday, thank you so much for sharing! Yes, Al is a super guy.
I had a Plymouth Fury III with a 2.91 gear. I wouldn't have called it a dog but it had a 335 HP 383. It would run 145 MPH+.
Rear end , Steve , I hope you read this as I did this on my old 71 Chevy C-10 and it worked out great. I found in a local junkyard a 3/4 ton Ford van that came from the factory with a Dana 60 rear and many of them come with 3:73 gears in them . The backing plate diminution were the same as the Eaton rear you have now. I picked up the rear complete for 90 dollars after I pulled the inspection cover and everything looked to be good. I did a standard service on the rear (replaced all the seals and rear gasket & lube) . I did have to cut the old leaf spring perch's off the Dana rear and my old Eaton rear as well and weld the Eaton spring perch's on the Dana rear after carefully getting the location & pinion angle on the Dana 60 correct under the truck. They sell a Eaton to Dana rear U joint to put in the driveshaft and from there on it's pretty much a bolt in operation. The beauty part is with the Dana you will be HARD PRESSED to EVER brake that Dana over the Eaton. Bottom line these Dana 60s are very common under Ford & Dodge Trucks and you can find them in good shape pretty dog gone cheap in scrap yards with nothing more then a tape measure and when completed wind up with a very tough rear end for less then a new pair of quality axels ! As I recalled I had to locate a different set of used rims to fit the Dana wheel pattern as the Eaton / Chevy wheel pattern is different but the rims I used under the Dana were on the rear when I bought it out of the Ford Van so all I had to do was install my tires in the Dana rims. I drove that old truck to work for decades with that Dana 60 rear and never had a problem. My old C-10 was stolen about 10 years ago and I never seen the old girl again . I replaced it with a 1970 C-20 truck I drive today and I already found a pair of Dana 60s out of a Dodge power wagon and well replace both of the Diffs in the future under the C-20.
Also, I really enjoyed the music that was paired with the stills at the end. Keep up the good work!
good to see your new drill press , the milling machine on the way back to operating , and you also . was starting to worry , software issues are terrible
Man, I wish I had someone to randomly show up and drop tools off for me! Good call on the diff. You would never have felt safe with that gnawed on G-80, especially if you were asking the truck to do something a bit hard. I like the approach on the axles as well. You aren't going overboard with stuff that will change the character of the truck, but you are going to make them completely trustworthy and reliable.
The only things people ever drop off for me is junk they want me to fix for next to nothing……
After seeing the G-80 closer, I agree you probably would always be doubting it. As for gearing, I am sure you will like 3.73s as that is what you already have and are used to them. I have one of the military blazers that these came out of and I have found that 3.08 works well for me. I do a lot of highway driving with a good bit of driving in muddy fields, forest service roads and packed snow. I am perfectly fine with shifting into 4 low on my transfer case when I need lower gearing and getting the better road manners in 2wd. I don't even always get out and lock the hubs, sometimes I just drop the case into low range to creep. Either way I am SURE you will like having a set of axles you know where done right and can trust.
I'm very jealous of that drill press,there great I've used them and have always told myself iam going to find one.
Steve: I had the same thing happen to me while removing a stuck bearing 50 some years ago and the chip of steel is still is in my palm.
Thank you for sharing. Watched it and very much enjoyed it. I agree with you on doing it right the first time and having a piece of mind.
A pleasure to watch as always, thank you.
Tip for easy bearing race removal, lay a weld bead on the race with Mig or go around once with the TIG Torch without filler, the race will just fall off.
Gotta love Al, and really gotta love Cash Masters.
Hey Steve nice drill press you acquired! I too have had trouble with chips breaking off of cold chisels, one time had bit break off and hit me in the leg and took me little bit to realise there was blood running down my leg and had to use a magnet to find and get the bit of chisel out. Anyway keep up the great work, I love good old vehicle restorations.
I was traveling Saturday, so I never new you were "late." Sorry you're having so much trouble with the rearend. Very nice, new to you drill press. Caused me to commit a couple different sins, envy and jealousy. LOL You follow your gut, as to what you should do with the rearend. Looking forward to the reassembly of the DoAll mill.
Back when I was doing a fair number of ring & pinion setups, I bought two identical rear pinion bearings. Then I honed one of them until it was a light press fit, so I could try different shims to get the pinion depth perfect, before I pressed on the untouched rear bearing for final fitment.
If you can, maybe you can make your own or buy the correct pinion bearing spacer, so you don't have to use the collapsing preload spacer.
Also, I use artist oil paint, thinned with a few drops of rear axle oil for checking gear pattern for drive/coast sides of ring gear. I prefer "cadmium yellow", but you can use whatever contrasting color you want.
Interesting demonstration of the testing methods, thanks for the great video.
When you built your shop you blue it, already you need a second floor. It never fails.
Many years ago I ground quite a few Bridgeport knees and tables. Tedious work to get right.
Great video 👍Steve another way to remove bearing's just apply a hot bead of weld on the race usually slip right off.
Another very interesting video. Great score on the drill press, it is a 25” as I understand things.
Totally agree, over engineer the axles for the unexpected, that always seems to happen.
Great Video Steve
Good choice on leaving that out, can't believe how weak those carriers look no wonder they break
Just before I was about to give up waiting, 🤣🤣🤣, must of been because the clocks went back,
Good ideas. Cant wait to see you fix that truck up!
You may be waiting a long time. I believe he said the axles were the total "fix" he has planned. He likes the truck "as is".
I wish you would’ve mentioned the idea of making punches out of Allen keys earlier. I just threw away a decent pile of old wrenches that I had no use for
NDT (Non Destructive Testing)! Takes me back to the Metrology Lab...
And me, Bath Tech College 1968/69!
Regarding what to do with the axis: I'd say that getting the setup exactly the way you want it will serve you for decades at least, since you maintain your vehicles much better than what was done previously. And getting a new vehicle? It would be outrageously expensive and not be as durable as what you're doing. So I for one think you are making excellent and well-thought-out choices.
Lotta work for an old truck diff.. most country folk would slap some oil thick as honey and a cardboard gasket and run it to the junk pile to find another one for when it craps out on em.. :)
Steve you should have U tubed how to use the mag particle tester. to test you need to be in contact with the part. to demagnetize you hold it off the part.
well down the rabbit hole we go. but I agree, I like older pickups w/out the crew cab better than the new breed of "SUV" like pu. something about a bench seat in a PU... and a full size bed 😊. It's good content too.
Can't wait to see you get that mill back together, and the new drill is awesome. You look like the cat that ate the mouse, you were so happy. Al is awesome.. Al, you are a great friend.
Hi, heat the inner track with a gas welder so it turns red. Much simpler
Magnus from Sweden
I saw that magnetic testing powder come out of a spaypaint can ...earlier...mixed with clear fluid...alcohol or something...works the same way though...checking for "hairlines cracks"...so...
Hello Al. It is good to see you again. It looks like it may be getting a little nippy in kentucky. Where do you live?
Pro tip with the Dye. Spray into cap use small brush so there's not ss much dye
We used the same penetrating spray when checking for cracks in molded white plastic/polymer parts. Didn't need to use the developer because of the base color of the parts. AFAIK the magnetic yoke needs to be in contact with the metal parts to induce the field into the part when doing the other testing. On the other hand, I could be entirely wrong.
I was breaking a race once and shot a chunk into my chest. I thought it bounced off but the next day I had pain still. Stuck a neodymium magnet to my chest and it stuck, so I ran it over the area repeatedly until the magnet was able to pull it out.
When installing the new outer races, I use the bench grinder to reduce the OD of the old outer race enough to make it a slip fit in the housing. That way, you can press on the old race and not risk ruining the new one.
never seen a magnaflux used like that. my hastings you set it down on the metal and spray powder on the part. interesting.
1st Hooray Steve has made it. Steve if you suffer outages too often maybe you want to consider a UPS (uninterupted Power Supply) for your computer, then it will give you a chance to save your work before the computer dies.
I believe this one he said was a software issue.
@@R_Forde If you checked the channel yesterday they had a storm and a power outage. Check in Community.
@@ericmcrae7758 That power outage comment was from 2 months ago. LOL
Steve, I think you will find that changing gears and setting them up properly isn't as difficult as you may think. Yes, it does take some time. But with a dial indicator, it is easily doable by most anyone that understands what they are doing. JMHO And remember, you are not building a rock climber or mud bogger. You are merely building a work truck!