Hey Randy - Saw you and the Model A at Dungeness Landing last weekend! I was playing with my grandchildren and could hear you coming before I saw your truck. That Model A is a distinctive sound. Thanks for the videos!
I am currently removing some soffit on my house due to water damage from a roof leak. What size nails are you using to install the soffit? I have run across small and large nails and I am just wondering so I don't make a mistake when I reinstall new panels. I am just one woman alone doing this job on my parents home and seeing you and your team makes me wish I had more siblings to help with this job! Oh and I am 71 on top of that! Lol, you do what you have to do!
Are you installing Hardie soffit panels? Searching the web, this came up: “In compliance with the tile industry, James Hardie recommends 1-1/4'' long galvanized or stainless steel roofing nails (0.121'' shank x 3/8'' HD) or 1-1/4'' long corrosion resistant ribbed waferhead screws (No. 8-18 x 3/8'' HD).” Hope this helps, and best of luck with your project! BTW, I’m 69 and it is no longer possible for me to look straight up to install anything overhead.
That guy cutting hardieboard without a respirator is going to love silicosis in his future. That stuff is bad news to cut without lung protection of some sort
How not to install Hardi Soffit. Each long edge should have a 1/4 to 3/8 gap between the facia and soffit to allow for expansion. Hammer to fit is not the way to go.
How much expansion is expected when the soffits are never in the sun and the location of our house is on the Olympic Peninsula where summer temperatures rarely reach 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit? You have to consider the local environment.
In your video you mentioned that you had the house re roofed and were putting on the hardy soffit to cover all the nails. Was the house open beam prior to re roofing without all the nails sticking through? If so, was the hardy used to cover a roofing job gone wrong by the wrong sized nails being used? Or was it initially a plan to blow through the roof with nails knowing the hardy would hide everything. I found your video by a search. I own a painting business and recently encountered a project where the client had his house re-roofed. The nails weren't poking through when the old roof was on. However , when the old roof was taken off and a new roof put on, there were thousands of nails poking through on the exterior eves. On the interior, which is an open beam cedar ceiling, it was basically destroyed by all the nail blowouts. I have never seen anything like this in my career/ 2,000 plus houses and still counting. I welcome your answer and also welcome any answer by a professional roofing contractor as to the most economical way to solve this problem. Thanks in advance for posting this video and anyone who offers their professional opinion.
To answer your questions as a layperson and owner of seven houses, both old and new over more than 40 years: This 43-year-old rambler is not opened beam. As required by code and by the asphalt shingle manufacturers, nails must penetrate 1/2" sheathing by 1/8" for their warrantee to be valid. High winds are typical here and the last thing I want is for shingles to get blown off during a windstorm. Of course, most of the penetrating nails are hidden from view in the attic. But they are visible beneath the eaves and overhangs. The previous owner of our house asked the roofing company to use shorter nails so that the nails would not penetrate the sheathing at these visible locations (there were visible nail holes from a previous roof). Doing this voids the manufacturer's warrantee. Since our roofline is low, these unsightly penetrating nails are easily seen. And I absolutely detest the sight of sharp nails and chipped sheathing. Besides bugging me, it looks unprofessional. The solution is to cover them up with soffit boards. Search the web and you will find explanations like the following posted at www.professionalroofing.net/Articles/Nailed-it--09-01-2019/4521 "Nails should be long enough to penetrate 3/4 of an inch into a roof deck; if a roof deck is less than 3/4 of an inch, nails should be long enough to penetrate and extend at least 1/8 of an inch through the roof deck." Thank you for your comment, questions and for watching my video!
@@skyhawaii5446 maybe not the most economical solution, but one time we built a big open roof over a deck and before laying our sheathing down we put tongue and groove cedar right on top of the rafters. The nails went through the sheathing and into the cedar only about half way into the board. All you see from below is the cedar which looks amazing but unfortunately if you were to have this inspected it wouldn’t work since the inspector has to be able to see the nails from below to sign off. There really isn’t a very cost effective way to do it while following code
Vents are suppose to be continuous around the whole house. 45 the corners of the house so they stay continuous and make the job look nice. This is no how to. SMH
Why the vented soffit if no air is going into the attic?
It was on sale at builders surplus
Those guys look like they're only good at drinking beer 😂
Hey Randy - Saw you and the Model A at Dungeness Landing last weekend! I was playing with my grandchildren and could hear you coming before I saw your truck. That Model A is a distinctive sound. Thanks for the videos!
Very cool! I'm glad you like my videos.
@@randallwingett does Hardy make narrow ventilated soffit panels for narrower overhangs?
Did you end up covering the seems between boards with something?
I am currently removing some soffit on my house due to water damage from a roof leak. What size nails are you using to install the soffit? I have run across small and large nails and I am just wondering so I don't make a mistake when I reinstall new panels. I am just one woman alone doing this job on my parents home and seeing you and your team makes me wish I had more siblings to help with this job! Oh and I am 71 on top of that! Lol, you do what you have to do!
Are you installing Hardie soffit panels? Searching the web, this came up: “In compliance with the tile industry, James Hardie recommends 1-1/4'' long galvanized or stainless steel roofing nails (0.121'' shank x 3/8'' HD) or 1-1/4'' long corrosion resistant ribbed waferhead screws (No. 8-18 x 3/8'' HD).” Hope this helps, and best of luck with your project! BTW, I’m 69 and it is no longer possible for me to look straight up to install anything overhead.
That guy cutting hardieboard without a respirator is going to love silicosis in his future. That stuff is bad news to cut without lung protection of some sort
Is this a midcentury modern ranch? Hardy board alao called jiffy board?
How not to install Hardi Soffit. Each long edge should have a 1/4 to 3/8 gap between the facia and soffit to allow for expansion. Hammer to fit is not the way to go.
How much expansion is expected when the soffits are never in the sun and the location of our house is on the Olympic Peninsula where summer temperatures rarely reach 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit? You have to consider the local environment.
Three crowns, aren’t you guys in port Angeles and sequim
Did you have any issue with bugs with a screen behind the soffit vent holes?
Such a pain in the A$5. I hate this stuff, but it lasts so long.
Good job 👍
How much does that cost?
I would have had the soffit made level rather than sloped in the event you wanted to add recessed lights later.
In your video you mentioned that you had the house re roofed and were putting on the hardy soffit to cover all the nails. Was the house open beam prior to re roofing without all the nails sticking through? If so, was the hardy used to cover a roofing job gone wrong by the wrong sized nails being used? Or was it initially a plan to blow through the roof with nails knowing the hardy would hide everything. I found your video by a search. I own a painting business and recently encountered a project where the client had his house re-roofed. The nails weren't poking through when the old roof was on. However , when the old roof was taken off and a new roof put on, there were thousands of nails poking through on the exterior eves. On the interior, which is an open beam cedar ceiling, it was basically destroyed by all the nail blowouts. I have never seen anything like this in my career/ 2,000 plus houses and still counting. I welcome your answer and also welcome any answer by a professional roofing contractor as to the most economical way to solve this problem. Thanks in advance for posting this video and anyone who offers their professional opinion.
To answer your questions as a layperson and owner of seven houses, both old and new over more than 40 years:
This 43-year-old rambler is not opened beam. As required by code and by the asphalt shingle manufacturers, nails must penetrate 1/2" sheathing by 1/8" for their warrantee to be valid. High winds are typical here and the last thing I want is for shingles to get blown off during a windstorm. Of course, most of the penetrating nails are hidden from view in the attic. But they are visible beneath the eaves and overhangs. The previous owner of our house asked the roofing company to use shorter nails so that the nails would not penetrate the sheathing at these visible locations (there were visible nail holes from a previous roof). Doing this voids the manufacturer's warrantee. Since our roofline is low, these unsightly penetrating nails are easily seen. And I absolutely detest the sight of sharp nails and chipped sheathing. Besides bugging me, it looks unprofessional. The solution is to cover them up with soffit boards.
Search the web and you will find explanations like the following posted at www.professionalroofing.net/Articles/Nailed-it--09-01-2019/4521
"Nails should be long enough to penetrate 3/4 of an inch into a roof deck; if a roof deck is less than 3/4 of an inch, nails should be long enough to penetrate and extend at least 1/8 of an inch through the roof deck."
Thank you for your comment, questions and for watching my video!
@@randallwingett Great response. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
@@skyhawaii5446 maybe not the most economical solution, but one time we built a big open roof over a deck and before laying our sheathing down we put tongue and groove cedar right on top of the rafters. The nails went through the sheathing and into the cedar only about half way into the board. All you see from below is the cedar which looks amazing but unfortunately if you were to have this inspected it wouldn’t work since the inspector has to be able to see the nails from below to sign off. There really isn’t a very cost effective way to do it while following code
Not a mention of what size nails or screws used, no information. Just a bunch of hacks vlogging their days. 😆
Hardie Soffit panel is too heavy. I used 1/4" plywood for soffit and I installed by myself.
Good for you! But is plywood you installed fire, moisture and insect resistance?
Que vale cada piesa de seas y deke medida es
Vents are suppose to be continuous around the whole house. 45 the corners of the house so they stay continuous and make the job look nice. This is no how to. SMH
Please be specific. What is wrong with this soffit panel installation and what are your credentials?
What are you even talking about? What does 45’s around a corner have to do with venting? Also the gables aren’t supposed to be vented anyway
Left negative rating by mistake. Finger flub!
I just got a quote for 16k for a 700sft home 😢
That's them telling you they don't want to do it
Too hi I charge my customers 6800 for that materials and labor
If my roofer left my roof looking like that, he would be sorry
Do you mean the roofing nails that are coming through the underside of the plywood sheathing?
Cringing at seeing people cut Hardie board without a mask on. Silicosis and lung cancer are in their future.
Hardie boards are a joke. It lookes a siding you'd see on a warehouse or a car dealership. Only clowns get this stuff