Tommy and Norm are the reason I became a General Contractor 20 yrs ago. They continue to teach us things. For instance at 3:20 in we learn its called a sar....not a saw. lol. And one time He was out on his boat and roger said "You dont want a shack on your boat. Later i learned that means Shark in the common mans language. LOL. Just ribbin you guys!!! Good times ;)
I sided a huge church with this and I did it alone. I used metal banding strap bent in an S shape to hold the 16 foot long boards on the opposite end as I attached the first end end. Once I got it tacked up, I removed my 3rd hand (clip) and finished nailing (with a nail gun). The church is the Faith Baptist Church of Wesley Chapel FL. I did the whole church, roof, classrooms, even the custom entrance and steeple. I also had to make up the top of the arched windows out of 1"x6" cement board trim. The cool thing about working on it was the area. It was old seminole indian hunting grounds and I found arrowheads.
Question. Would you use fiber cement on a block wall? If so, would you need to install studs? I too am from FL not too far from Wesley Chapel but have never worked with this material.
except he is installing Hardie siding all WRONG, ya don't COCK butt joints, and he didn't flash the butt joints...he needs training of how to do it properly
+1 for flashing the joints hahaha. Also, Ive seen alot of crews around here priming the exposed cut ends (rattle can quick and easy). From what I hear James Hardie has changed theyre install methods 500 times over the years due to unforseen issues hahahaha.
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
Don't caulk the joints unless you want water in your wall. They make flashing that goes behind the joint so water can't get in. It is the correct way to side. Water sheds right off and out of the joint. Caulk creates an uneven surface and dams the direct the water in directions other than straight down with gravity.
We have a new digital television set here at Shady Acre Observatory and we are watching the shows on WFYI. I really like This Old House 🏡!!! We're having a remodeling of this garage now and a new set of garage doors with electric lifting is in the project planning. Thank you, a big, big fan here.
Two things:- 1. Calking is all well and good but after a couple of years gaps open up between the boards and unless, like you showed, water egress is a problem. Calking is a ongoing problem. 2. It is a hard product but recently our holiday house which is hardy plank clad had an outdoor blind break and strong winds hammered it against the planking creating a large hole. I'm asking if you could show how to replace an already existing board that is between existing boards and also whether a smaller hole can be repaired without being removed and matched to the existing pattern. I watch, with interest, your show and have used a lot of techniques that have been explained. Thanks for an education in the use of products and tools. 👍🏻😁🇦🇺
The best dust control is a 20 inch Box Fan at max speed standing 2 feet away and blowing the dust to open space (backyard). You wouldn't even need a mask. Shut it off when you are not cutting. Obviously not suitable for indoor, but most of these jobs are exterior. For cutting I used angle grinder with a regular diamond blade for concrete and it was like cutting butter. I pre-drilled holes only in the corners to prevent cracking.
lol i grew up around this stuff for years as a kid. this hardee stuff is great for soffit, fascia, and siding of course. we knew we shouldn't be inhaling the dust, but that didn't stop my dad from bringing us to the construction sites every weekend
James Hardie says not to caulk where butt joints are , but to make sure its painted and make sure u have Aluminum backing to allow the water to run out.
You are correct! That is why you should always read the instructions on installing anything because things change all the time. But sadly I still see carpenters caulking the joints and not using flashing on all the seams. Over time if you caulk the seams it actually ends up looking worse because the paint looks different on the caulk and the caulk ends up coming loose. And what's even worse is that I'm not a carpenter and I event know that caulk is not good on the seams because guess what.....I read the install instructions.
Manufacturers do not recommend caulking butt-joints any more (change in policy). The caulk breaks out and looks bad eventually. The new method is to flash it well with waterproof material like Tom did here, and paint the ends of the joint where it was cut. DO NOT paint the back. Most people leave about a 1/8th inch gap at the butt for expansion. I like to use colormatched or similar color metal flash, such as painted aluminum roll flash under the gaps as that will never rust, and you can just use spray paint to give it a light coat of matching paint in one line on the flash, but tarpaper or synth work just fine and are not that noticeable. You should always go to the manufacturers website and read what they recommend.
Hm all the instructions for hardiplank hz10 say that caulking is still an acceptable butt joint flashing method. Of course the guys doing my house didn't put any flashing underneath so I hope I can get them to caulk.
+kuzumisama i avoided using caulk on my butt joints for this very reason. I also do not caulk the underside of any planks or seams, so that any potentially trapped water can drain out the bottom.
We have had a very large house fitted with what certainly looks like the UK equivalent from Marley - titled Cedral. We chose it because of the maintenance free aspect. The contractor tells us that he completely followed the manufacturers installation instructions. Specifically to fix using nails on the top edge only. Over the last four years we have had no end of trouble with the wind lifting one piece which then immediately allows the wind to get under the next piece and then the next piece. Before you know it, you have broken bits of very expensive Cedral all over the place. Solution? The contractor says that the only solution he has been unable to discover is to use stainless pins on the bottom edge of each plank so that wind can not get under it. That will mean small holes that will need to be filled with colour coded filler. So, be aware. Unless there is now a better way of fixing these boards, get advice before buying
Wonder if this is the same thing that my Friends' had on their home way back when. They said that after it was installed, cellular reception diminished within their home due to how insulating it is. Is that true? They always said that it was some sort of cement type siding. Looked like wood and looked similar to this. Home was sold 10 years ago, probably had the siding installed in the late 1990s or early 2000s at the latest.
Thanks for the video, I have some gap between the Hardieplank and the foundation blocks which is normal, but since spiders, ants and other bugs are crawling in and out, I like to fill it with expanding foam. is there anything wrong with doing that? thanks
Installed this almost 25 years ago, still good, mine was only primed, paint still looks good, recently did a hidden side of the house that never got done, I remembered the nail gun wasn't always consistent so this time I predrilled and counter sunk hole and used stainless screws, (just snug) really wasn't that bad, maybe over kill but I slept good! I wish those guillotine shears weren't so expensive, not sure why...$265, I used the 4 tooth blade...
*I have to put some siding on a shed. I got some 4x8 sheets of siding for a very good price so ill need to cut it. This video give good tips on the best way to go about It* DexterousX
i only need to cut a little bit of this stuff...would it quickly blunt a hand saw...? i like the dust free options(or at least "free falling dust" as opposed to "dust blown everywhere")
Tom. Need help replacing cement siding please. I installed mine 20 years ago, and now have several places dogs damaged. How do you remove the nails without damaging the siding? Thanks.
I'm trying to find out, how to REPLACE a HardiBoard section, specifically how do you nail if it was installed using the "Blind" Nail method? ** Can the "BLIND" method be used when performing a section replacement?
If you want to replace a certain section but not go all the way to the top , you can take a skill saw and cut a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch below the lap you are saving , make sure your skill saw isn’t set too deep so it won’t go through plywood underneath. Then snap that piece off and then take a dremel with a blade that can cut nails and slide the blade underneath both pieces and cut the nails so you can get that last piece out and clean it out so you can slide a new piece in . Then you can remove the pieces underneath and then reside it nailing on the top . If you need to you can always pre drill and face nail it at the bottom and a dab of caulkin on the nail if you can’t nail it at the top for some reason.
Just curious if the nail gun damages the back of the board, and should instead be pre-drilled and hand-nailed? Slower, but better installation. We are in the midst of a class-action settlement with the Certainteed product (shrinking, warping, and falling off a new home installation).
The real question is are you willing to pay all that drilling and hand beating? That stuff is pretty hard on blades and bits, especially when drilling, and it adds up fast. Couple that with labor costs (not wages) of $30-$60 per man hour and you will soon find out why that isnt usually an option.
You can drill it, but it’s typically unnecessary. As long as the plank is tight it can’t tear out the back as it has no where to go. The same principle as avoiding any tearout; ensure there is sturdy backing.
Okay fellas, love the channel but you don't need saws or shears for small projects. You can score/slice into the hardie plank with a razor blade; much like Sheetrock and it will break like folding and licking a piece of paper.
Use a utility knife and a square score it 4 to 6 times place the square under your straight line to use it as a fulcrum and snap it... no dust no special blades or saws
used hardiplank / cable person drilled in and cracked without me knowing she did ... WHAT NOW ??? HOW TO REPAIR OR CAULK ??? no funds to replace ,, / they said they didnt do t but the BOX IS THERE !
Hi, How to run siding on separate side to meet at the peak. picture a breezeway with a roof right in the middle of a wall picture siding both sides of the breezeway and over the breezeway and up to peak. How can I do this?
Hey they didn't mention score and snap! That works great for cut off cuts. Also buy good quality FC like Hardie planks, and you will save a lot of grief and money in the long run.
Shouldn't siding be attached to vertical strapping so you have an air gap between the siding and sheathing, creating a space for water to drain out and a gap to allow moisture to dry. I've heard other people say never attach siding directly to the sheathing? What's the right answer?
it's cement based, barely contracts and expands, the house behind it will though, gaps required as specified by hardi....flash each butt joint, no caulking on but joints, only caulk at end mouldings, and using specified color match caulking from Quad
hey great video which brand would you recommend? I purchased Allura from Menards....looked on line for an installation guide then the first thing that came up was a class action lawsuit (great!) funny part is that the lawsuit is in Massachusetts where I think these TOH people are. Im sure with there money they use Hardie siding still it sucks Menards didn't mention anything about this I don't want to have siding installed and it fail in a few years especially when its guaranteed for 50
We have vertical siding and they are getting old. Can you tell us whether Horizontal siding is better ? We re planning on installing Hardie fiber cement siding (horizontal). Any thoughts?
Did not at one time they (Hardie) state that nailing would void the warranty? I know where some new houses are going up right now where the siding has no nails in it. That is the reason I am watching this video, to see how they are gluing this stuff up.
Hi, I want to know if a cement block home vs hardie board home is a better option? if so or not, why? please. I'm so confused about building these days, material isn't what it used to be. Please, break it down for me thanks and God bless! like what would be top choice?
Depends on where you live. i had a cement block home in Florida 1970's Always thought it was a safer house for hurricanes but after hurricane Andrew 1992 i found out it was a myth. I live in North Ga and my home is Hardi plank wood frame. The house is 17 years old and I have had very little problems. paint sticks well on the hardi board and the home seems warmer in winter. I did have a problem with my boxed Fire place rotting out because it was not flashed properly. I have painted the house 3 times because of color changes. Never had to scrape old paint off due to chipping or peeling. overall my preference would be wood frame and hardi plank over block, but that's just me
there is a reason we don't use tar paper behind siding,it doesn't allow the wall to breath, allowing any moister behind the tar paper to create mold buildup. they should use a product like tyveck or typar.
That's a bs reason. My house is in South Mississippi the air doesn't get any moister or warmer, my house was built in 1955 with asbestos cement siding , when I pulled it off that tar paper looked like new , and there was no mold attributable to that. Hurricane Katrina put water in my house so the baseboards molded on the back side...
+Brian Wengreen what we do, is just run the box cutter along the edge of the speedsquare , hard, a few times and the hardie snaps fairly cleanly , no dust
So I picked up a lot of scraps of fiber cement board for free and plan on using them for a decorative front for my shed. I plan to cut them into shakes and layer them on top top front. I need to do something because my 20 year old shed has some rot and I'm cutting it out and replacing with a similar product. Then shingling over with my cement shakes. Has anyone else done this. I dont have extra cash just time.
Cuts should be made with the material face down with shears. will leave a clean cut on the finish side. Should have cut it that way with the circular saw also because it was pre-finished. If you notice, that cut wasn't pretty either.
No speak of trim installation, window flashing story pole, gator grips, starter course. Fiber Cement much better than vinyl but TOH was a little lacking on the details on "how to install". These guys are great though!
Cement board expands and contracts???? I wouldn't have guessed that. That said, all that caulking and tar paper is tremendous overkill. The siding is not intended to provide a perfect watertight seal. Nor does it need to. That's what the house wrap is for.
@@ridenorthwest1687 Yes, it is. It has a waterproof rating of 250cm. It is specifically designed to keep water from penetrating yet allow moisture vapour to escape. I hope you're not a contractor.
Tommy and Norm are the reason I became a General Contractor 20 yrs ago. They continue to teach us things. For instance at 3:20 in we learn its called a sar....not a saw. lol. And one time He was out on his boat and roger said "You dont want a shack on your boat. Later i learned that means Shark in the common mans language. LOL. Just ribbin you guys!!! Good times ;)
reminds me of moe on the simpsons when he called a toilet.. a terlet.. im sure there is a clip on youtube
I sided a huge church with this and I did it alone. I used metal banding strap bent in an S shape to hold the 16 foot long boards on the opposite end as I attached the first end end. Once I got it tacked up, I removed my 3rd hand (clip) and finished nailing (with a nail gun).
The church is the Faith Baptist Church of Wesley Chapel FL. I did the whole church, roof, classrooms, even the custom entrance and steeple. I also had to make up the top of the arched windows out of 1"x6" cement board trim.
The cool thing about working on it was the area. It was old seminole indian hunting grounds and I found arrowheads.
Seth Emai
16 foot long Are you sure about that?
Question. Would you use fiber cement on a block wall? If so, would you need to install studs? I too am from FL not too far from Wesley Chapel but have never worked with this material.
We found arrow heads on our land in green Swamp, they are all over Florida.
For me, it would be like winning a state lottery to have Tom come work on my house!! He is a true craftsman!
except he is installing Hardie siding all WRONG, ya don't COCK butt joints, and he didn't flash the butt joints...he needs training of how to do it properly
+1 for flashing the joints hahaha. Also, Ive seen alot of crews around here priming the exposed cut ends (rattle can quick and easy). From what I hear James Hardie has changed theyre install methods 500 times over the years due to unforseen issues hahahaha.
Yep. And when nail guns are used it's usually too deep and they don't caulk over the nail heads. So moisture penetrates and ruins it.
@@bigelile07 There should be no face nailing on hardie.
I like how Tom pretends he's busy at the beginning of every Ask segment :)
🤣
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
Don't caulk the joints unless you want water in your wall. They make flashing that goes behind the joint so water can't get in. It is the correct way to side. Water sheds right off and out of the joint. Caulk creates an uneven surface and dams the direct the water in directions other than straight down with gravity.
That is exactly right I can’t believe they said that it is unreal to me the majority of contractors don’t know this
If you're hand nailing the board would it not be better to pre-drill to reduce the chance of damage to the board?
You guys are usually great at safety. That pneumatic nailer should never be pointed at anyone at anytime ever.
Caught that as well. No matter what kind of gun. Control the direction and the trigger.
Stfu. Confucious say, “Goody goodies are the thieves of virtue.”
Take an old dull regular sawblade and put it on backwards...I learned it 20 years ago
The sheer cutter cracked the siding
We have a new digital television set here at Shady Acre Observatory and we are watching the shows on WFYI. I really like This Old House 🏡!!! We're having a remodeling of this garage now and a new set of garage doors with electric lifting is in the project planning.
Thank you, a big, big fan here.
Two things:-
1. Calking is all well and good but after a couple of years gaps open up between the boards and unless, like you showed, water egress is a problem. Calking is a ongoing problem.
2. It is a hard product but recently our holiday house which is hardy plank clad had an outdoor blind break and strong winds hammered it against the planking creating a large hole. I'm asking if you could show how to replace an already existing board that is between existing boards and also whether a smaller hole can be repaired without being removed and matched to the existing pattern.
I watch, with interest, your show and have used a lot of techniques that have been explained. Thanks for an education in the use of products and tools. 👍🏻😁🇦🇺
The best dust control is a 20 inch Box Fan at max speed standing 2 feet away and blowing the dust to open space (backyard). You wouldn't even need a mask. Shut it off when you are not cutting. Obviously not suitable for indoor, but most of these jobs are exterior. For cutting I used angle grinder with a regular diamond blade for concrete and it was like cutting butter. I pre-drilled holes only in the corners to prevent cracking.
These are some great tips, thanks. 👍
lol i grew up around this stuff for years as a kid. this hardee stuff is great for soffit, fascia, and siding of course. we knew we shouldn't be inhaling the dust, but that didn't stop my dad from bringing us to the construction sites every weekend
I love how they put masks on to make a cut in a closed room then took the masks right after
Craig Sater ....thought the same!
I noticed that too lol
It’s television folks. Reality is suspended.
Yum! I love the taste of fiber reinforced cement!
Trying to set a good example, or cover their assets
James Hardie says not to caulk where butt joints are , but to make sure its painted and make sure u have Aluminum backing to allow the water to run out.
Those dust collecting SAR's are pretty neat
James Hardie recommends not to caulk the butt joints. you're supposed to use a step flashing where they butt up at.
That is the correct current method, but at one time they did suggest caulking butt joints.
I don't believe you are supposed to use ring shank rails either. I think they tell you that in the installation guide.
can i use this for frieze boards?
You are correct! That is why you should always read the instructions on installing anything because things change all the time. But sadly I still see carpenters caulking the joints and not using flashing on all the seams. Over time if you caulk the seams it actually ends up looking worse because the paint looks different on the caulk and the caulk ends up coming loose. And what's even worse is that I'm not a carpenter and I event know that caulk is not good on the seams because guess what.....I read the install instructions.
In
Australia we put a snake skin flashing behind each but join and sometimes caulking the join with paintable sika flex is fine.
The Hardie installation video says not to use caulking.
Manufacturers do not recommend caulking butt-joints any more (change in policy). The caulk breaks out and looks bad eventually. The new method is to flash it well with waterproof material like Tom did here, and paint the ends of the joint where it was cut. DO NOT paint the back. Most people leave about a 1/8th inch gap at the butt for expansion. I like to use colormatched or similar color metal flash, such as painted aluminum roll flash under the gaps as that will never rust, and you can just use spray paint to give it a light coat of matching paint in one line on the flash, but tarpaper or synth work just fine and are not that noticeable.
You should always go to the manufacturers website and read what they recommend.
and next year they will change their installation recommendations again.
Hm all the instructions for hardiplank hz10 say that caulking is still an acceptable butt joint flashing method. Of course the guys doing my house didn't put any flashing underneath so I hope I can get them to caulk.
+kuzumisama i avoided using caulk on my butt joints for this very reason. I also do not caulk the underside of any planks or seams, so that any potentially trapped water can drain out the bottom.
At the moment they recommend not caulking butt joints (tight) and above Z flashing (1/4" gap), and 1/8" gap around trim.
what I really like about the comments section is that everyone knows more than everyone else. Ha
roy
Feoe
Every single time...
That's because there's always more than one way to do something.
In New Zealand we have to have full vacuum extraction with high efficiency "m class" filters. The dust from these products is truly lethal.
Like that fan equipped saw.
We have had a very large house fitted with what certainly looks like the UK equivalent from Marley - titled Cedral. We chose it because of the maintenance free aspect. The contractor tells us that he completely followed the manufacturers installation instructions. Specifically to fix using nails on the top edge only. Over the last four years we have had no end of trouble with the wind lifting one piece which then immediately allows the wind to get under the next piece and then the next piece. Before you know it, you have broken bits of very expensive Cedral all over the place.
Solution? The contractor says that the only solution he has been unable to discover is to use stainless pins on the bottom edge of each plank so that wind can not get under it. That will mean small holes that will need to be filled with colour coded filler.
So, be aware. Unless there is now a better way of fixing these boards, get advice before buying
Why not use screws?
"They have saws now with dust collection" yeah since like 1985
1:53 ".. quite a lot of dust, and not the kind you want to be breathing in.."
What kind of 'dust' does he prefer? 😂😂😂
Angel?
House dust
I've seen people cut this stuff with a utility knife. Score it and snap it at the cut. That seems way easier than anything offered here.
When he was pointing the nail gun at him I was clutching my OSHA 30 card.
lol
hehe
He totally flagged him 🤣
Wonder if this is the same thing that my Friends' had on their home way back when. They said that after it was installed, cellular reception diminished within their home due to how insulating it is. Is that true? They always said that it was some sort of cement type siding. Looked like wood and looked similar to this. Home was sold 10 years ago, probably had the siding installed in the late 1990s or early 2000s at the latest.
To cut Fiber-Cement Siding, I use a Jig Saw with a diamond tile cutting blade. Very little dust and low noise.
Thanks for the video, I have some gap between the Hardieplank and the foundation blocks which is normal, but since spiders, ants and other bugs are crawling in and out, I like to fill it with expanding foam. is there anything wrong with doing that? thanks
Installed this almost 25 years ago, still good, mine was only primed, paint still looks good, recently did a hidden side of the house that never got done, I remembered the nail gun wasn't always consistent so this time I predrilled and counter sunk hole and used stainless screws, (just snug) really wasn't that bad, maybe over kill but I slept good! I wish those guillotine shears weren't so expensive, not sure why...$265, I used the 4 tooth blade...
3:32 is when the installation talk starts
Wow thank you
Scoring cuts are better made with a carbide tipped cutting too. Carbide tipped jigsaw blades are also a life saver.
"WOOOOAAAAH!!" @ 4:44 DID YOU SEE TOM SILVA'S REACTION WHEN HIS CO-HOST POINTED THAT NAIL GUN AT HIM WITH HIS FINGER IN THE TRIGGER?
I find that power shears are the best way to cut the hardie boards, and just use factory edges for but joints.
Drills have come a long way lol
You can use an angle grinder to cut it, it works well
*I have to put some siding on a shed. I got some 4x8 sheets of siding for a very good price so ill need to cut it. This video give good tips on the best way to go about It* DexterousX
Is that a coil roofing nailer or a cool framing nailer? Also is that a rigid circular saw with the vacuum?
Neither - it’s a siding nailer
Technology hits everything these days.
4:19 Actually James Hardie says to not caulk the butt joints. True story
i only need to cut a little bit of this stuff...would it quickly blunt a hand saw...? i like the dust free options(or at least "free falling dust" as opposed to "dust blown everywhere")
Apparently most of y’all have absolutely no idea how a nail gun works. It won’t fire until the gun tip is pressed against a surface.
And to be honest it doesnt hurt being hit by a nail shot with distance from a nail gun... these people watch to many movies.
Tom. Need help replacing cement siding please. I installed mine 20 years ago, and now have several places dogs damaged. How do you remove the nails without damaging the siding? Thanks.
I'm trying to find out, how to REPLACE a HardiBoard section, specifically how do you nail if it was installed using the "Blind" Nail method?
** Can the "BLIND" method be used when performing a section replacement?
If you want to replace a certain section but not go all the way to the top , you can take a skill saw and cut a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch below the lap you are saving , make sure your skill saw isn’t set too deep so it won’t go through plywood underneath. Then snap that piece off and then take a dremel with a blade that can cut nails and slide the blade underneath both pieces and cut the nails so you can get that last piece out and clean it out so you can slide a new piece in . Then you can remove the pieces underneath and then reside it nailing on the top . If you need to you can always pre drill and face nail it at the bottom and a dab of caulkin on the nail if you can’t nail it at the top for some reason.
Dude just pointed that nail gun at the mans eyes,my goodness gracious.
if the gun is working properly, you have to press the tip against the surface before the trigger can be pulled to shoot a nail
@@roxborotomm Gun safety is "GUN" safety. Don't point anything that shoots anything at anything you don't want to kill PERIOD.
Just curious if the nail gun damages the back of the board, and should instead be pre-drilled and hand-nailed? Slower, but better installation. We are in the midst of a class-action settlement with the Certainteed product (shrinking, warping, and falling off a new home installation).
The real question is are you willing to pay all that drilling and hand beating? That stuff is pretty hard on blades and bits, especially when drilling, and it adds up fast. Couple that with labor costs (not wages) of $30-$60 per man hour and you will soon find out why that isnt usually an option.
You can drill it, but it’s typically unnecessary. As long as the plank is tight it can’t tear out the back as it has no where to go. The same principle as avoiding any tearout; ensure there is sturdy backing.
Okay fellas, love the channel but you don't need saws or shears for small projects.
You can score/slice into the hardie plank with a razor blade; much like Sheetrock and it will break like folding and licking a piece of paper.
A shear like the one from Bullet Tools is the best way to go. That dust is nasty stuff.
Can you use it stand-alone, underlay or does it have to be overlay?
I like how this has the vibe of a blues clues episode or something
Use a utility knife and a square score it 4 to 6 times place the square under your straight line to use it as a fulcrum and snap it... no dust no special blades or saws
used hardiplank / cable person drilled in and cracked without me knowing she did ... WHAT NOW ??? HOW TO REPAIR OR CAULK ??? no funds to replace ,, / they said they didnt do t but the BOX IS THERE !
Where's Nahm, the Mastah Cahpentah??
Wheres Nahm, you say ?? Why Hes pahking the cah in the bahn in Hahvahd Yahd, Mister !!
Love those old K2 skis on the wall.....I'd say 215cm??
what about face nailing also i live in a hurricane area , should that be done
Hi, How to run siding on separate side to meet at the peak. picture a breezeway with a roof right in the middle of a wall picture siding both sides of the breezeway and over the breezeway and up to peak. How can I do this?
james hardie didn't let you zoom in on the 'cleanness' of the cut did they
Hey they didn't mention score and snap! That works great for cut off cuts. Also buy good quality FC like Hardie planks, and you will save a lot of grief and money in the long run.
John Stephenson just score with knife?
@@ecoorbits701 yes. And change your blade every other cut
@@simplestatic3751 every other cut? Lmaoooo so if I cut 100 pieces of siding I need 50 blades? Dumbass
Shouldn't siding be attached to vertical strapping so you have an air gap between the siding and sheathing, creating a space for water to drain out and a gap to allow moisture to dry. I've heard other people say never attach siding directly to the sheathing? What's the right answer?
NOTE: All pro installers use 5/4" AZEK Trim, not 3/4".
Yes we do
How does the siding expand and contract when its nailed flush to the house??
it's cement based, barely contracts and expands, the house behind it will though, gaps required as specified by hardi....flash each butt joint, no caulking on but joints, only caulk at end mouldings, and using specified color match caulking from Quad
I have a house whose fiber cement siding is too close to the ground. I wonder what I should do?
Shear Blade Cutter can also be used.
is it dangerous to breathe the dust,when sawing!I hear it's as bad as asbestos!
Maybe worse. It’s fine silica dust, lung carcinogenic.
What is the underlayment that you're using? That doesn't look like house wrap (Tyvek etc)
Use Hardie Wrap, it;s different than other wraps
Eye and dust protection is fine. Where’s the hearing protection?
If I need to drill a hole on this do I use a drill bit for concrete?
Either or would be fine
hey great video which brand would you recommend? I purchased Allura from Menards....looked on line for an installation guide then the first thing that came up was a class action lawsuit (great!) funny part is that the lawsuit is in Massachusetts where I think these TOH people are. Im sure with there money they use Hardie siding still it sucks Menards didn't mention anything about this I don't want to have siding installed and it fail in a few years especially when its guaranteed for 50
Kevin O'Connor pointed that nail gun at Tom Silva THREE TIMES. I'm gonna guess that Kevin is not a firearms owner!
I find that, JUDO CHOP! works best.
Love your pic/name. One of my favorite movies!
I have a pice of this siding that has fallen down. Do I have to take all the pieces above it off and re fasten them?
No, cut the nails with a hacksaw blade , put the peice back up and face nail about 3/4" from the bottom of the peice. Then caulk the nails.
what is meant by back-caulk?
We have vertical siding and they are getting old. Can you tell us whether Horizontal siding is better ? We re planning on installing Hardie fiber cement siding (horizontal). Any thoughts?
horizontal looks better and can better keep water out if you do it right. vertical can look outdated imo
Actually both vertical and horizontal siding are made to keep the water out doesn't matter wich one you use just make sure you like it!!!!
Welcome to tool time
We truly LUV you guys. Question: Do you really get paid for having so much fun? LOL!!! p.s. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
Did not at one time they (Hardie) state that nailing would void the warranty? I know where some new houses are going up right now where the siding has no nails in it. That is the reason I am watching this video, to see how they are gluing this stuff up.
No way too heavy
Can you use screws instead of nails. Which type of screws? For as exterior trim board.
Did you find out about the screws? I like to use some of this material on my shed but same way I like to use screws over nails!
Hi, I want to know if a cement block home vs hardie board home is a better option? if so or not, why? please. I'm so confused about building these days, material isn't what it used to be. Please, break it down for me thanks and God bless! like what would be top choice?
Depends on where you live. i had a cement block home in Florida 1970's Always thought it was a safer house for hurricanes but after hurricane Andrew 1992 i found out it was a myth. I live in North Ga and my home is Hardi plank wood frame. The house is 17 years old and I have had very little problems. paint sticks well on the hardi board and the home seems warmer in winter. I did have a problem with my boxed Fire place rotting out because it was not flashed properly. I have painted the house 3 times because of color changes. Never had to scrape old paint off due to chipping or peeling. overall my preference would be wood frame and hardi plank over block, but that's just me
What is the average to replace a small area of Hardie fiber cement on a house??!😮😮😮
No back caulking between seams per manufacturer.
you dont say the name of the attachment. would be nice to know the item that attaches to the drill
Harold Brown drill shears.
Don’t forget to gap the joint
there is a reason we don't use tar paper behind siding,it doesn't allow the wall to breath, allowing any moister behind the tar paper to create mold buildup. they should use a product like tyveck or typar.
That's a bs reason. My house is in South Mississippi the air doesn't get any moister or warmer, my house was built in 1955 with asbestos cement siding , when I pulled it off that tar paper looked like new , and there was no mold attributable to that. Hurricane Katrina put water in my house so the baseboards molded on the back side...
They should have mentioned scoring along the cut line, and then snapping. It is quick and dustless. Tool cost =$5.00
+Brian Wengreen what we do, is just run the box cutter along the edge of the speedsquare , hard, a few times and the hardie snaps fairly cleanly , no dust
Not clean enough for an exposed butt joint.
where does one buy the cutting attachment for drill?
Great information
So I picked up a lot of scraps of fiber cement board for free and plan on using them for a decorative front for my shed. I plan to cut them into shakes and layer them on top top front. I need to do something because my 20 year old shed has some rot and I'm cutting it out and replacing with a similar product. Then shingling over with my cement shakes. Has anyone else done this. I dont have extra cash just time.
Does it come in colors that look like unpainted wood?
Which is better - James Hardie plan or LP Smart Siding?
James Hardie is best 30 year warranty 15 year on the color plus factory painted stuff, LP is crap, wood substrate
@thisoldhouse which model # bostitch nailer is that 66 vs 75?
I noticed you didn't say anything about the drill cutter destroying the end cut. Large piece broken off.
Cuts should be made with the material face down with shears. will leave a clean cut on the finish side. Should have cut it that way with the circular saw also because it was pre-finished. If you notice, that cut wasn't pretty either.
No speak of trim installation, window flashing story pole, gator grips, starter course. Fiber Cement much better than vinyl but TOH was a little lacking on the details on "how to install". These guys are great though!
Cement board expands and contracts???? I wouldn't have guessed that.
That said, all that caulking and tar paper is tremendous overkill. The siding is not intended to provide a perfect watertight seal. Nor does it need to. That's what the house wrap is for.
House wrap is not waterproof.
@@ridenorthwest1687 Yes, it is. It has a waterproof rating of 250cm. It is specifically designed to keep water from penetrating yet allow moisture vapour to escape.
I hope you're not a contractor.
1:27 is kevin wearing a yamica
Wish this would have shown tools for solo-installation.
They forgot to mention how many 12+ footers you'll break while handling it.
Yeah hardie says not to calk butt joints, only going into trim