HI seen the inside of a ps5 i don't like the parts what are they like to work on more of a pro tape deck man my self some things are money pits if parts are to small
I 100% believe that there was a short on the board that was triggering the protection circuit on the power supply. When you injected the 12v from your bench power supply it burned out the short and then the official power supply was able to power the console normally. It could have been something as simple a bit of conductive dust between two balls or legs of a surface mount component.
I absolutely agree. I used to debug PC boards. If a s/c was around 1 ohm, a quick blast of 20V would invariably zap the short and completely revive the board. Good job mate👍
Awesome result, Vince ! If I remember correctly, a while ago Sorin of electrons repair school has a video where he forces amps through a 2 layer phone board with a short to burn out the short (mlc cap), without splitting the board to clear it. Showed it to my dad who’s an old school rf engineer and he cringed at it as a method. But let’s be honest, at that point it was heading for being used as parts but you didn’t give up and have learned from the process. I think it might be interesting, if you have the time, to go through the board and see if you can find an open mlc cap. I really think there will be a cracked/ unusually coloured or at least definitely an open one in there somewhere bud. Cracking result though !!
Can't believe this channel is getting close to 1 million subscribers, it's come a long way. I thought these repair videos were too niche to reach that wide of an audience, but I guess it's true what The Retro Future said, everybody loves seeing old, broken or worn devices getting cleaned up and repaired. Personally, this channel, along with some other repair/refurb and retro modding channels have given me the courage to take apart and tinker with the things I own, when before I didn't have the confidence and I was worried I would break stuff just taking it apart and putting it back together. I don't have spare parts already laying around to try to fix something I buy as faulty and I don't want to risk buying bulk lots to try to combine parts and get something working from it, as those bulk lots are a big gamble and might all have the same fault or just be unfixable. Repairing stuff for fun is not a cheap hobby to get started with since you often need donors for parts and a working device to compare with the faulty one, and faulty devices are not that much cheaper than working devices (depending on the fault) But next time something of mine breaks, I'm going to make my best attempt at fault finding it just for fun, if the parts I need aren't available or the fix is too expensive that's okay, of course it would be great to be able to say I fixed something of mine and not have to spend money buying a new one, but fault finding seems like the most fun part of it anyway, so I'll consider it mission accomplished if I'm able to figure out the fault, because then I'll have proved to myself that I could fix it with the right tools and parts (and maybe some practice in soldering them) and the only thing holding me back is getting them. Even reballing BGA chips is doable, if you can get a stencil for it and dead parts to practice on. Strange Parts in particular is a channel that comes to mind, he had never done BGA reballing before and had 10 chips to practice on and was able to reball and solder chips in an iPhone. It requires specialized tools though, like the stencil, and possibly a SMD rework station, so it takes investing some money into to get started with it. Definitely too big of an investment for me personally into something I am completely new to and have no confidence in my ability to accomplish.
Actually, investment is not that big if you know what you want to do and you know exactly what tools you need for what you're planning to do. I can assist if you need me to. Getting a stencil that fits is only a quarter of the problem. You need knowledge. You need to know electronics at a decent level and need to always learn new things. Don't worry, you will break things, either by your mistake or by the inevitability of the odds. I had some water (moisture) under a chip once and when I wanted to heat it, I got a tiny little explosion right when the solder was reaching the melting point and I had to buy the very same working video card to be able to measure the parts which were blown away from the PCB. Breaking things is part of the fun. The most funny part was that I just finished repairing that video card, ran 5 benchmarks and the card was completely working but I wanted to make the soldered joints to look perfect. Shit happens. You need to be able to clean it. That's all.I started electronics repairs when i needed one of my PC monitors get fixed and nobody did fix PC monitors in my city. I was so pissed off I fixed it myself. I was tinkering with electronics since I was a boy so some of the basics were already there. Then I learned and I am still learning. You need patience (which I don't really possess), good eyes (no way) and if possible, steady hands (yeah, right).
Your sentiments are spot on but some of your details are not, at least from my experience: It does depend somewhat on what you are working on, but repairable faults do not usually require hard to find or expensive parts especially if you are repairing just about anything you can get your hands on. A lot of the time the fault is due to generic resistors/capacitors/IC/Mosfets or bad connections. Bulk lots are generally not a big gamble, I used to buy pallets full of faulty disco equipment when I was living in the UK - on the pallet would be speakers, amplifiers, disco lights, mixers, lasers etc stacked about six feet high, wrapped in plastic sheeting so you couldn't see everything that was on the pallet and the going rate was around £200 per pallet - and while not everything was fixable a lot of it was very profitable and the rest made for good spare parts. I do a similar thing now I guess buying lots of retro computers / hardware from the local flea market/car boot sale and get a large proportion of it working. I often buy these in job lots of 6-8 computers. Reballing takes some practice, and yes do it on scrap or low value items. You do not need a stencil for reballing. Yeah they help and save some time but you can easily reball even large BGA such as GPU or PCH by hand. It is time consuming but it isn't difficult. Ive done it several times, I think the last one was 900+ solder balls. Depending on the BGA and the PCB you can sometimes remove and resolder it with a good preheater and hot air station such as Quick 861DW or Atten 862 but admittedly sometimes it is not possible without a BGA rework station and even if it is possible without it is still harder to get consistent results Regards equipment, you can do most repairs with just three or four items and they need not cost a lot either. You need a multimeter, a soldering iron (with consumables - solder/flux/desolder braid), a bench PSU and (if you are doing SMD) a hot air station. That's it. You can then fix 80-90% or repairable items. Some other things you can build yourself (signal injector, esr meter, short finder etc) and if you finding a lot of things that you know you could fix with some additional test or rework kit then go ahead and buy it.
So I had exactly the same symptom and found your video. Decided to get a bench test power supply and I essentially jump started the thing blowing out the fault with 12V just as you demonstrated. Just put it back together and hooked it up on boy’s TV and we’re back in business! Thank you for the video!
I did the same with a 20v power brick and some wired tapped in on the terminals as shown a few times ,then a 12v power brick tapped a few times again then it came to life . 😂 thank you
You're nearly at 1 million subscribers Vince, I really hope you reach that. I have loved your content ever since the Mr Telephone days. never stop doing what you're doing. the content you create is just brilliant 🙂 all the best
The other thing you did between it not working and working was to remove the shield around the APU, unlikely, but possible that something was shorting to the shield. Maybe a bit of heatsink compound gone conductive or something.
It's nice that you add at the beginning that 'You have never taken one of these apart before', but when it comes to diagnosing an issue, it wouldn't matter too much in the early stages. All electronics devices pretty much follow a standard set of rules, power comes in, power gets transformed, and power gets sent to where it needs to go. The only thing that differs between each device is in the specifics of the device. A fuse is a fuse is a fuse, just like a capacitor is a capacitor is a capacitor, etc... First step would be to plug the device into power, and then follow the power as far as you can, check that you have the correct amount going in, check on various ICs (Some you can very likely find datasheets for) to make sure they are receiving what they should be receiving. Next do a check over the entire board, see if anything looks obvious (corrosion, burnt components, etc...). You have a thermal camera, so use it, inject voltage in, see what gets hot. I really do love watching your videos, but sometimes I think you take the 'I have never taken one of these apart before' as gospel and end up ignoring all the basic checks first. Otherwise, again, I really love watching your videos and will continue to watch them, just need to get the basics down :)
Great blind investment Vince. Xbox 360s were my forte at fixing back in the the day for my son and his pals. Personally I'm not into Gaming but what a result for someone who is.
Well there was a Short circuit somewhere for sure. And that is why power supply was cutting the voltage off. Bench power Supply burn off that short. What you haven’t done, was measuring the value of components again.
Could have been stuck in a protection mode due to a power surge. A sudden jolt in the power input due to a lightning surge, power hiccup or anything. I've seen this happen before with a computer & a battery bank but never to a game console. Congrats on the fix ! Great deal !!
I think it was the thermal paste. It can be conductive even it shouldn't be. For 20 years ago I experienced a shorted brand new AMD CPU. I cleaned it and it worked. After that I always clean up CPU/APU if the thermal paste is all around.
I’m glad it wasn’t an SSD issue With the Xbox Series S and X, the software on the SSD is apparently paired to the console in some way, so if the SSD fails, you are screwed (as you apparently need to transfer the software from the old SSD to the new SSD to get it to work if you do upgrade or replace the SSD)
The pairing between SSD and motherboard is done only by what's in the 1GB RAW partition, there is the pairing key. If you have a backup of the 1GB RAW partition you an replace the SSD no worries.
The reason the V_GFXCORE rail has such a low Ohm-reading is because the GPU part is EXTREMELY power-hungry. More often than not, the GPU takes up the bulk of power delivered to a PC or console (at least nowadays; it may've been the case in the past that the CPU took more power than the GPU). But the CPU part still requires a ton of power as well. The CPU and the GPU takes up the majority of wattage from the power supply, the RAM uses a modest amount, while the rest uses very little power. This is also why putting a PC or console to Sleep-mode is a massive power saving feature, because the CPU and the GPU are both asleep, reducing the power usage of the device massively (although nowadays, CPUs and GPUs are able to regulate their power draw by only drawing power during actual processing and no (or very little) power during idle).
Pretty nice save Vince ... Most likely cleared the short by injecting voltage into the apu ... The voltage There is a main power Line that goes to the APU to one single capacitor that usually shorts out Look closely at the capacitors on the apu if you ever get a chance...happy repairs
My sons Xbox is doing this, I came here hoping to figure out how to fix it. Only thing this video taught me was how to disassemble and reassemble a series S. Lol
Crazy that now it works...maybe conductive dust was the reason and when you connected the powerbench it cleared the short state that was shutting down the original power supply
You can tell it's not a APU short because it heats gradually. A die short will have an instantaneous pin-point hot-spot, ie, put IPA on it and supply power and one small spot will dry out very quickly. Maybe you burnt-out the short, or a metal filing fell out that was shoring a rail, or it could be a logic transistor that intermittently works - I had one on a PC MB that came back and killed the MB again, which I was only able to find after it stopped working -.
I agree with others that it was likely a short that you "removed". Hardware failures/errors/issues detected by POST (power on self test) normally aren't so fast. Given there is rust in there it's not beyond imagination that some found it's way into a more problematic position.
My guess is that by forcing 12 volts in to it, it allowed the Xbox to stay on and rectify a software error which kept telling the Xbox to shutdown due to a bad power supply.
@@BuyitFixit thats what i meant, or maybe bios got glitched out, and the cpu just kept starting with same error. But by forcing it to stay on, it forced the bios to hard reset from a power overload.
Nice video, Vince :) You should ask Phil (TheCod3r) about this issue. I am sure he will have an instant answer to this problem and what you should measure on the test points of the board.
I am guessing you had a bit of corrosion somewhere that was shorting a rail where current sensing is in place. By bypassing the normal power on process there you may have "zapped" the short? Very interesting and rather cool =D Maybe it was around that rusted inductor?!? Alternatively a slightly shorted cap may have gone "open" after being forced with 12v?
Maybe Chris!!!! Funnily enough another one came up on eBay with the exact same fault. I was outbid on that one though. I wanted to see if this fix would gave worked again. Cheers for the theories on how the fault cleared itself 👍👍👍
9:22 Who else had their heart in their mouth when VInce started hoovering near all those little parts on the yellow mat ? 9:55 I'd take those meter leads out and reseat them to get rid of any build up increasing the resistance. Better still, give the leads and contacts a good clean.
I am thinking that the dust had some conductivity somewhere on the board. It could’ve ended up underneath the apu or the south bridge which prevented the Xbox from booting. It’s possible that it triggered a fault in the power supply and was kicking it in to turn off. Maybe when you injected voltage, it cleared that short
hey Vince. I've heard about a fault on the switch, that a mosfet is kind of "stuck" in a specific state. There is a way by injecting voltage, to reset this stucked mosfet. I think it was kind of the same fault here on this xBox Series S.
CPU, GPU usually short to ground for protection when device is switched off. This is why you would find what seems like a lot of shorted caps on the back of a CPU or GPU. This is totally normal. According to ohms law.
Hi, the low voltage injection may have caused a reset of the nvram (non volatile ram) that stores the boot up parameters (they)re not in the removable memory), similar to “clearing the cmos”.
This is what I was thinking at the beginning. Could be that something happened and now the syscon(idk the actual term for this system) rejects turning on the system since the parameters are incorrect.
Really hard to say for sure, but there may have been a component that had partially failed and created a low impedance path to ground that behaved "short-like" such that when you injected voltage, the component completely failed and went to open-circuit. A possible example would be a voltage line filter cap. If that cap partially failed and became low impedance it would look like a short on that voltage rail.
Another possibility is a transistor on the power side perhaps had its gate "stuck" and injecting the voltage allowed the transistor to reset and behave properly.
is it possible that a voltage issue somewhere in the past has caused the system to get stuck in the mode where it has the fault which is probably a safety measure, and by your troubleshooting (and forcing power) at somepoint you've drained the component thus resetting it and now the system is out of the safety mode? this might sound strange and i dont remember where i heard about this or what device but its something i've heard of, maybe something with voltage regulators i dont remember.
4 Ohms on your meter probes isn't right - it'll really mess up the readings at the low end. Makes me wonder about the quality of the connectors as it isn't that old - I have an ancient Maplin one, I've never had problems like that.
I think your meter probes are on the way out. Some of the strands inside the wire have probably broken from repeated bending. That would explain the varied readings you are getting for a 'short' reading.
My meter was doing this, I found out it was a bad connection with the selector dial, if you rotate the dial back and forth in quick succession it would clear the issue for a bit. To get a bit more of a permanent fix I dismantled my meter and cleaned the rotary contacts. Word of warning about opening the rotary type meters, they have very small and fragile parts on the dial, that HAVE to be in the correct place for the meter to ever work properly again.
We have this theory in my career, when a younger tech request an older tech to assist with resolving an issue that the problem magically dissapears because the gremlins in the electronics go into hiding from the older tech. You may have crossed that bridge in this episode 🤣
I have a similiar theory for when I decide to go see a doctor for an ailment that I have. Usually when I do, the appointment is the next day and my body starts to magically feel better. 🤷♂
all i'm going to say is there is thermal paste goop all over the sides of that CPU covering those resistors. To me, that seems it could cause problems. I would have cleaned that up and put new CPU thermal paste on the chip. Wondering if you dislodged some of that there enough to cause it to work again.
that was a short in some where on the board caused by some conductive dust or material when you force injected the board the short was burned out and gone .
Overheating issue perhaps put the console into some weird safe mode? After you cleaned, cleared it and forced voltage into it, it somehow reset the fault? A working theory 🤔
My guess is corrosion somewhere and the power supply added just enough to clear it. If mine I would dismantle the s and using a toothbrush with 99% iPa clean the board thoroughly and keep it from failing again looking especially for corrosion from liquid.
Heh ps5 vertial orientation. Nevermind that but back in the PS2 days I remember places trying to upsell horizontal stands... horizontal... what's it going to do, fall up into standing position and break?
I would say you have caused a "magic smoke" moment on a tiny shorted component and completely blown it getting rid of the short, you just haven't noticed it either because it was on the other side of the board or just haven't seen it. @27:20, about there you mention it jumped up to 80mA then straight back down suggesting you completely blew the shorted component? a shorted cap that isn't necessary? I would say that was the moment the short cleared and why. Since you had your mobile in the way we can't say for sure but it suggests the mentioned here. Might be another component not essential but shorted, I bet there was a possible puff of smoke somewhere we can't see as your phone is obscuring that area.
The fact that the coil looked different to every other one would have been my starting point especially as it's close to the vents ( and spills ) and there's no rule that says you can only put 1v in a 12v line? And injecting enough juice into the apu to start it with no heat sink was reckless.... So I'd suggest lifting that coil, and getting a better meter and leads....
If you short your probes for a few seconds, then press the (REL) button on your meter, that might subtract the resistance of your probe leads while measuring.
It could have been a leaky or shorted ceramic cap somewhere on a supply line, but who knows….. I’m in the repair business for over 22 years and this sometimes happens , can’t explain it.🤷♂️
My Series S had the same problem last summer. I scoured Internet to find an answer. Nothing. I concluded that since it (machine) is relatively new, it is normal to not have answers to this. It was a tormenting phase. I also dwelled on purchasing another power supply but seeing how Aliexpress was my only option to buy one, I dropped the idea. Despite being irrationally wary of messing with the machines, I disassembled it, blew through it, brushed its reachable interiors and yet nothing. After no play for a whole week, I decided to give it another try, turn it on. I did, and there! It was back by itself. None of technicians could figure out how, and yet it had life. The issue happened again yesterday and here I am looking for answers. Nevertheless, I was cocksure yours won’t come back. haha Congrats!
To be fair, as there wasn't really a short, I would say he didn't really inject voltage, it's more like he used his own power supply to power up the board on the bench, which is something you do all the time in repair shops. It's not really injected if you input the power through the intended socket, which he kinda did.
You can see at 27:57 a chip right in the middle of the board get warm before the apu does,yet afterwards that chip never gets warm again. So whatever was shorting that chip out,got burnt at 27:58 and the short goes away and the apu starts to get warm. Might be a good idea to pull that chip off the board and clean the area before reselling that xbox.or at minimum flood it will ipa and blow out the area with your hot air station at a low heat high air flow setting.
Hi, looks like they had the Xbox sat on carpet whilst in use with all that fluff. I wonder how many failures could be avoided with proper placement in a clean place.
i think a component shorted out on the powerrail and the psu has some short circuit of overcurrent protection while your labbench psu forces 12 volts in it without protection blowing the shorted component open maybe it was a capacitor or some chip
i also had some weird shorted component on something i repaired and by forcing power into it it drew 2 amps for 5 seconds and after that it dropped to the normal healthy draw
Could it be a cap has dried out & gone out of spec, and by ext powering it u forced a charge back into it. If it stop again (the caps discharged) tests the caps.
Idk but a similar thing happened to my V3 Razr phone back in the day. Charger port wasn't working. Plugged it into my computer at the time to test and a trail of smoke came from it. Next thing I know the charger started working again. Burnt away whatever was blocking the connection.
Hey Vince. I'd really like to see another ebay challenge with yourself and tronixfix and others. Is that something you will be doing again. The vintage toys were awesome last time.
I have heard of components that get stuck in a software limbo where "something" doesn't get cleared when the power is turned off. Forcing the power might have made whatever chip cycle completely through a error state and retried and been good at that point. Or a tiny bit of crud was in the connector and your probe cleared it What others have suggested about a tiny amount of corrosion being zapped away is probs very likely too.
I had this issue yesterday and after watching your video I thought i would take the jump and open it up and fix it myself. I didn't need to pass any voltage thank heavens but i was able to fix it, turns out it was dust. Dust on everything and everywhere but specifically on the PSU vents. After clearing the dust on the PSU vents and putting it back together it works just fine now!
Well done Vince my heart sank I thought the APU was goosed, maybe it was some kind of lockout? I have cleared a short before by keeping voltage injection on… great fix anyway hats off to you!
TheCodr has a video where he repairs a console by forcing power into it to burn out a tiny shorted diode. I cant remember what console it was, but my guess is this is a similar event.
I'd love to see different color mats - even pink might be interesting - perhaps color coordinate with the project/fix you're working on. While the blue mat has seen better days it's far from being past it (IMO). Keep up the interesting fixes - I know they're always interesting since even with my ADD I can almost make it through the longer videos and not be tempted to skip ahead. As for the voltage injection I really have no idea but I've seen devices that are "broken" come back after the power has been removed and several connectors and connections be shorted - adding power may have had a similar effect or sent a signal that it was okay to power on...
Maybe the APU has a temperature sense on it and the thermal past was not good and the APU was shutting down the power supply. When you redid the thermal paste it fixed the issue.
I have just fixed a dead Xbox Series S that was completely filled with dust and fluff; I checked that 12v was present from the PSU. Then, I stripped it down to clean it and replaced the thermal paste on the CPU, but it still would not turn on. I checked the board for obviously burnt components, where I noticed a cruddy 8-pin component (2D=V6F); after removing it to clean the pads, I then put it back. I then put the Xbox back together. To my surprise, it worked perfectly again. Ideally, it is best to do one thing at a time; otherwise, we never find the fix if we do too many things. In my case, I was not 100% convinced of the actual cause. Was it the new thermal paste? Was it the removal and replacement of the cruddy component? or was it just an overheating problem because of the dust and fluff? I finally found the problem after removing the Gremlin from my Henry Vacuum bag. My next project is to build a cage for Gremlins; I already know what they eat.
The apu getting warm is normal when not even turned on because I have noticed with my series s it stays warm even when not in use and the fan does spin at a very low speed I find this very interesting that they do this and not just turn completely of like PlayStations do
I was thinking that some chip may have been stuck in an off state and injecting voltage was able to get it unstuck. I'm not electronics expert, so it's just a guess and probably wrong.
You had a short all maybe something that was maybe just a line filter and you blew the circuit open forcing voltage through causing an open circuit allowing the safety on the power supply to power the rest of the board
My guess is you had something shorted by mabe a solder spider web or something that shorted and by boosting power to it, whatever the short was, it was heated enough to cause it to clear by melting. As you stated, you couldn't find a short, do mabe it was a short, just not a total complete ground. Good video.
I do believe that you revived it by the internal heat in the APU, not as fun but remember you could not find any short and no heat did come throw even when you up the volt except for right there. The console is not that old, and most of the APU's powerrail should be intact even after you burned out this one, but i would not sell it as i know i you aren't doing. Is your ps3 fat still in service? Great video. Love you content. Could we see a version 2.0 boombox switch gameplay with a fancy pcb? Al adapter's on one gaint pcb cramd in to that poor boombox tv? 😀 have a great one mate!
Black = Danger when Red is connected with DC that is why red wire is red to draw your eyes for attention, and that is why you had the spike in amperage when connecting the black wire is because the red lead was connected. think how you put a battery into a battery holder for a device like a wireless mouse, remote control, etc. so did you burn the short away? then the answer is yes, as the device is now working.
Never messed around with XBoxes, but many years dealing with PCs. Wonder if it was something similar to the 5VSB(Stand By) circuit having an issue and keeping the MB from powering up with the switch. By bypassing the switch thru voltage injection, you may have toggled the lock off.
Surely the best test of a short would be to probe the pins that feed the whole board fro mthe PSU? If there's a short there early on, then you might have found the issue? I also guess there might be a ball issue on the APU, and a bit of heat got a ball to contact again?
May of had a resistive capacitor reading low ohm then cleared and became a capacitor again after the non protection 12 volt was applied. Like some internal component moisture the protection was able to pick up on but was dried out when the component was warmed by the non protect PSU. I remember the 360s could get hot enough to reflow themselves If the heatsink was removed and power was applied for around 3 minutes, therefore temporarily fixing their "Ring of Death" fault but I don't think yours got anywhere near hot enough to reflow itself.. So I'm going with the resistive / damp capacitor theory. Nicely done.. I was going to go with "Nope" when the option was given at the beginning. Lol.
Vince, very interesting. The only thought I have is that bypassing the internal power supply, you've burnt out the internal voltage protection circuit which may have had the fault and it will now work. If there is a voltage fluctuation now, damage will likely occur to the unit... This is like bypassing a safety switch on an HVAC unit that is designed to turn the unit off with covers removed. . Nice fix...
The internal voltage protection would largely be useless in the face of a fluctuation. Think about it, said fluctuation somehow bulldozed past his circuit breaker's own protections, into the PSU, then the Xbox? If it got past the first two layers, the Xbox was never surviving. HVACs also handle far more electricity. Like a dangerously high amount more. And have no really... concealed power supply to speak of. It's in a neat little plastic thing for the Xbox, like your desktop PC and so on are too. ~240-250w (IIRC the max draw of an XSX/PS5) isn't really going to cause as much of a failure if it deviates a bit. Actually yeah there's the thing. HVACs and space heaters don't really vary much in wattage. That's how you know one is failing if it does. A console is just a computer. They vary greatly and depending on task. And it might not even cause a bad failure. Sure lots of Xbox Series S/X's can't hit their max wattage, or gigahertz, or whatever, but it's okay. It won't really come up or be noticed 99% of the time.
Spoiler Saver
Thank you 👍👍
HI seen the inside of a ps5 i don't like the parts what are they like to work on
more of a pro tape deck man my self some things are money pits if parts are to small
continue using the yellow mat please
This fault makes no sense
@@crxxpslvyr7887 Might have been similar to injecting the working voltage into a lithium battery when it has gone very low , it kind of jump starts it
@@UserUser-ww2nj eh, i think a bit stuck somewhere and it got cleared by bruteforce powering it directly
I 100% believe that there was a short on the board that was triggering the protection circuit on the power supply. When you injected the 12v from your bench power supply it burned out the short and then the official power supply was able to power the console normally. It could have been something as simple a bit of conductive dust between two balls or legs of a surface mount component.
Thanks John👍👍👍
I absolutely agree. I used to debug PC boards. If a s/c was around 1 ohm, a quick blast of 20V would invariably zap the short and completely revive the board.
Good job mate👍
Awesome result, Vince ! If I remember correctly, a while ago Sorin of electrons repair school has a video where he forces amps through a 2 layer phone board with a short to burn out the short (mlc cap), without splitting the board to clear it. Showed it to my dad who’s an old school rf engineer and he cringed at it as a method. But let’s be honest, at that point it was heading for being used as parts but you didn’t give up and have learned from the process. I think it might be interesting, if you have the time, to go through the board and see if you can find an open mlc cap. I really think there will be a cracked/ unusually coloured or at least definitely an open one in there somewhere bud. Cracking result though !!
Makes sense. Glad it wasn't the APU 🙂
@@seguramlk yes that would have been rotten luck !
Can't believe this channel is getting close to 1 million subscribers, it's come a long way. I thought these repair videos were too niche to reach that wide of an audience, but I guess it's true what The Retro Future said, everybody loves seeing old, broken or worn devices getting cleaned up and repaired. Personally, this channel, along with some other repair/refurb and retro modding channels have given me the courage to take apart and tinker with the things I own, when before I didn't have the confidence and I was worried I would break stuff just taking it apart and putting it back together.
I don't have spare parts already laying around to try to fix something I buy as faulty and I don't want to risk buying bulk lots to try to combine parts and get something working from it, as those bulk lots are a big gamble and might all have the same fault or just be unfixable. Repairing stuff for fun is not a cheap hobby to get started with since you often need donors for parts and a working device to compare with the faulty one, and faulty devices are not that much cheaper than working devices (depending on the fault)
But next time something of mine breaks, I'm going to make my best attempt at fault finding it just for fun, if the parts I need aren't available or the fix is too expensive that's okay, of course it would be great to be able to say I fixed something of mine and not have to spend money buying a new one, but fault finding seems like the most fun part of it anyway, so I'll consider it mission accomplished if I'm able to figure out the fault, because then I'll have proved to myself that I could fix it with the right tools and parts (and maybe some practice in soldering them) and the only thing holding me back is getting them.
Even reballing BGA chips is doable, if you can get a stencil for it and dead parts to practice on. Strange Parts in particular is a channel that comes to mind, he had never done BGA reballing before and had 10 chips to practice on and was able to reball and solder chips in an iPhone. It requires specialized tools though, like the stencil, and possibly a SMD rework station, so it takes investing some money into to get started with it. Definitely too big of an investment for me personally into something I am completely new to and have no confidence in my ability to accomplish.
Actually, investment is not that big if you know what you want to do and you know exactly what tools you need for what you're planning to do.
I can assist if you need me to.
Getting a stencil that fits is only a quarter of the problem.
You need knowledge. You need to know electronics at a decent level and need to always learn new things.
Don't worry, you will break things, either by your mistake or by the inevitability of the odds. I had some water (moisture) under a chip once and when I wanted to heat it, I got a tiny little explosion right when the solder was reaching the melting point and I had to buy the very same working video card to be able to measure the parts which were blown away from the PCB. Breaking things is part of the fun. The most funny part was that I just finished repairing that video card, ran 5 benchmarks and the card was completely working but I wanted to make the soldered joints to look perfect. Shit happens. You need to be able to clean it. That's all.I started electronics repairs when i needed one of my PC monitors get fixed and nobody did fix PC monitors in my city. I was so pissed off I fixed it myself. I was tinkering with electronics since I was a boy so some of the basics were already there. Then I learned and I am still learning.
You need patience (which I don't really possess), good eyes (no way) and if possible, steady hands (yeah, right).
When vince reaches 1 million subscribers im going to make a cake in celebration of the 1 million subscriber mile stone!
Your sentiments are spot on but some of your details are not, at least from my experience:
It does depend somewhat on what you are working on, but repairable faults do not usually require hard to find or expensive parts especially if you are repairing just about anything you can get your hands on. A lot of the time the fault is due to generic resistors/capacitors/IC/Mosfets or bad connections.
Bulk lots are generally not a big gamble, I used to buy pallets full of faulty disco equipment when I was living in the UK - on the pallet would be speakers, amplifiers, disco lights, mixers, lasers etc stacked about six feet high, wrapped in plastic sheeting so you couldn't see everything that was on the pallet and the going rate was around £200 per pallet - and while not everything was fixable a lot of it was very profitable and the rest made for good spare parts. I do a similar thing now I guess buying lots of retro computers / hardware from the local flea market/car boot sale and get a large proportion of it working. I often buy these in job lots of 6-8 computers.
Reballing takes some practice, and yes do it on scrap or low value items. You do not need a stencil for reballing. Yeah they help and save some time but you can easily reball even large BGA such as GPU or PCH by hand. It is time consuming but it isn't difficult. Ive done it several times, I think the last one was 900+ solder balls. Depending on the BGA and the PCB you can sometimes remove and resolder it with a good preheater and hot air station such as Quick 861DW or Atten 862 but admittedly sometimes it is not possible without a BGA rework station and even if it is possible without it is still harder to get consistent results
Regards equipment, you can do most repairs with just three or four items and they need not cost a lot either. You need a multimeter, a soldering iron (with consumables - solder/flux/desolder braid), a bench PSU and (if you are doing SMD) a hot air station. That's it. You can then fix 80-90% or repairable items. Some other things you can build yourself (signal injector, esr meter, short finder etc) and if you finding a lot of things that you know you could fix with some additional test or rework kit then go ahead and buy it.
Your channel is growing so much! Im happy for you!
Wow! Nearly a million subs Vince! All that hard work and risk is paying off. Good job.
I think can be same problem APU could went bad 5 years I have same system 😢
So I had exactly the same symptom and found your video. Decided to get a bench test power supply and I essentially jump started the thing blowing out the fault with 12V just as you demonstrated. Just put it back together and hooked it up on boy’s TV and we’re back in business! Thank you for the video!
where did you inject the power into?
I did the same with a 20v power brick and some wired tapped in on the terminals as shown a few times ,then a 12v power brick tapped a few times again then it came to life . 😂 thank you
My Xbox series S doing the same thing power on than shuts off
You're nearly at 1 million subscribers Vince, I really hope you reach that. I have loved your content ever since the Mr Telephone days. never stop doing what you're doing. the content you create is just brilliant 🙂 all the best
The other thing you did between it not working and working was to remove the shield around the APU, unlikely, but possible that something was shorting to the shield. Maybe a bit of heatsink compound gone conductive or something.
that "what the hell" at 33:10 was so genuine 😂 what an ending
It's nice that you add at the beginning that 'You have never taken one of these apart before', but when it comes to diagnosing an issue, it wouldn't matter too much in the early stages.
All electronics devices pretty much follow a standard set of rules, power comes in, power gets transformed, and power gets sent to where it needs to go.
The only thing that differs between each device is in the specifics of the device.
A fuse is a fuse is a fuse, just like a capacitor is a capacitor is a capacitor, etc...
First step would be to plug the device into power, and then follow the power as far as you can, check that you have the correct amount going in, check on various ICs (Some you can very likely find datasheets for) to make sure they are receiving what they should be receiving.
Next do a check over the entire board, see if anything looks obvious (corrosion, burnt components, etc...).
You have a thermal camera, so use it, inject voltage in, see what gets hot.
I really do love watching your videos, but sometimes I think you take the 'I have never taken one of these apart before' as gospel and end up ignoring all the basic checks first.
Otherwise, again, I really love watching your videos and will continue to watch them, just need to get the basics down :)
Great blind investment Vince.
Xbox 360s were my forte at fixing back in the the day for my son and his pals.
Personally I'm not into Gaming but what a result for someone who is.
Well there was a Short circuit somewhere for sure. And that is why power supply was cutting the voltage off. Bench power Supply burn off that short. What you haven’t done, was measuring the value of components again.
Could have been stuck in a protection mode due to a power surge. A sudden jolt in the power input due to a lightning surge, power hiccup or anything. I've seen this happen before with a computer & a battery bank but never to a game console. Congrats on the fix ! Great deal !!
I'm having this problem after finding put nipsco turned power off in the neighborhood at least I know they should replace it
I think it was the thermal paste. It can be conductive even it shouldn't be. For 20 years ago I experienced a shorted brand new AMD CPU. I cleaned it and it worked. After that I always clean up CPU/APU if the thermal paste is all around.
You know what the yellow mat has grown on me it really is a nice change. Keep up the great videos vince.😉❤️
My Mat Vince 😉
I’m glad it wasn’t an SSD issue
With the Xbox Series S and X, the software on the SSD is apparently paired to the console in some way, so if the SSD fails, you are screwed (as you apparently need to transfer the software from the old SSD to the new SSD to get it to work if you do upgrade or replace the SSD)
Thanks Pineapple, I have a couple of faulty Series X consoles here, hopefully the SSDs haven't failed in them 👍👍👍
The pairing between SSD and motherboard is done only by what's in the 1GB RAW partition, there is the pairing key. If you have a backup of the 1GB RAW partition you an replace the SSD no worries.
The reason the V_GFXCORE rail has such a low Ohm-reading is because the GPU part is EXTREMELY power-hungry. More often than not, the GPU takes up the bulk of power delivered to a PC or console (at least nowadays; it may've been the case in the past that the CPU took more power than the GPU). But the CPU part still requires a ton of power as well. The CPU and the GPU takes up the majority of wattage from the power supply, the RAM uses a modest amount, while the rest uses very little power.
This is also why putting a PC or console to Sleep-mode is a massive power saving feature, because the CPU and the GPU are both asleep, reducing the power usage of the device massively (although nowadays, CPUs and GPUs are able to regulate their power draw by only drawing power during actual processing and no (or very little) power during idle).
Might’ve been a MOSFET gate that was causing the issue. By injecting voltage you may have turned the gate back on
Pretty nice save Vince ... Most likely cleared the short by injecting voltage into the apu ... The voltage There is a main power Line that goes to the APU to one single capacitor that usually shorts out Look closely at the capacitors on the apu if you ever get a chance...happy repairs
Thanks Q Tech👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince No problem mate
What caps are those?
My sons Xbox is doing this, I came here hoping to figure out how to fix it. Only thing this video taught me was how to disassemble and reassemble a series S. Lol
Did you ever figure it out? Mines having the exact same issue. It has to be the same solution if we could only find the problem 😂
I fixed my original xbox one s with this same exact problem...the only two options to fix this urself is to replace the power supply or hard drive
@@alexanderbielski9327did you find the solution
Power supply
@@codylobrillo4333i got mine on christmas 1 month later or 2 it’s turning on but not staying on it just turns off it’s a black screen
congrats on the new sponsor Vince!
Crazy that now it works...maybe conductive dust was the reason and when you connected the powerbench it cleared the short state that was shutting down the original power supply
My take on this….. no idea, it’s a miracle. 😂👍. Great fix Vince.
You can tell it's not a APU short because it heats gradually. A die short will have an instantaneous pin-point hot-spot, ie, put IPA on it and supply power and one small spot will dry out very quickly.
Maybe you burnt-out the short, or a metal filing fell out that was shoring a rail, or it could be a logic transistor that intermittently works - I had one on a PC MB that came back and killed the MB again, which I was only able to find after it stopped working -.
I agree with others that it was likely a short that you "removed". Hardware failures/errors/issues detected by POST (power on self test) normally aren't so fast. Given there is rust in there it's not beyond imagination that some found it's way into a more problematic position.
My guess is that by forcing 12 volts in to it, it allowed the Xbox to stay on and rectify a software error which kept telling the Xbox to shutdown due to a bad power supply.
i think it was a shorted component that got blown open by forcing voltage in it
@@309electronics5 Agree. That was more of an over current protection kicking in and not a software issue.
@@BuyitFixit thats what i meant, or maybe bios got glitched out, and the cpu just kept starting with same error. But by forcing it to stay on, it forced the bios to hard reset from a power overload.
Nice video, Vince :)
You should ask Phil (TheCod3r) about this issue. I am sure he will have an instant answer to this problem and what you should measure on the test points of the board.
I am guessing you had a bit of corrosion somewhere that was shorting a rail where current sensing is in place. By bypassing the normal power on process there you may have "zapped" the short? Very interesting and rather cool =D Maybe it was around that rusted inductor?!? Alternatively a slightly shorted cap may have gone "open" after being forced with 12v?
Maybe Chris!!!! Funnily enough another one came up on eBay with the exact same fault. I was outbid on that one though. I wanted to see if this fix would gave worked again. Cheers for the theories on how the fault cleared itself 👍👍👍
9:22 Who else had their heart in their mouth when VInce started hoovering near all those little parts on the yellow mat ?
9:55 I'd take those meter leads out and reseat them to get rid of any build up increasing the resistance. Better still, give the leads and contacts a good clean.
Vince that click is coming from the built in speaker. Its the power on tone interrupting.
I'm happy for the yellow mat to visit more often, I like it.
I am thinking that the dust had some conductivity somewhere on the board. It could’ve ended up underneath the apu or the south bridge which prevented the Xbox from booting. It’s possible that it triggered a fault in the power supply and was kicking it in to turn off. Maybe when you injected voltage, it cleared that short
Whoo! You must have the magic touch! Glad you got it to work even though you don't know what happened.
hey Vince. I've heard about a fault on the switch, that a mosfet is kind of "stuck" in a specific state. There is a way by injecting voltage, to reset this stucked mosfet. I think it was kind of the same fault here on this xBox Series S.
CPU, GPU usually short to ground for protection when device is switched off. This is why you would find what seems like a lot of shorted caps on the back of a CPU or GPU.
This is totally normal. According to ohms law.
Hi, the low voltage injection may have caused a reset of the nvram (non volatile ram) that stores the boot up parameters (they)re not in the removable memory), similar to “clearing the cmos”.
Going for this theory
This is what I was thinking at the beginning. Could be that something happened and now the syscon(idk the actual term for this system) rejects turning on the system since the parameters are incorrect.
That circuit you built at the beginning of the video is also a ghost detection device for emf disturbance
Really hard to say for sure, but there may have been a component that had partially failed and created a low impedance path to ground that behaved "short-like" such that when you injected voltage, the component completely failed and went to open-circuit. A possible example would be a voltage line filter cap. If that cap partially failed and became low impedance it would look like a short on that voltage rail.
Another possibility is a transistor on the power side perhaps had its gate "stuck" and injecting the voltage allowed the transistor to reset and behave properly.
I think a transistor has blown out and since injecting it with voltage has recharged it but it’ll just stop working again when it discharges
Vince always makes me smile when i spot an openreach/bt tool :D
😂👍
is it possible that a voltage issue somewhere in the past has caused the system to get stuck in the mode where it has the fault which is probably a safety measure, and by your troubleshooting (and forcing power) at somepoint you've drained the component thus resetting it and now the system is out of the safety mode? this might sound strange and i dont remember where i heard about this or what device but its something i've heard of, maybe something with voltage regulators i dont remember.
I really hate the yellow matt and wish I'd never seen it!!!!
Hope that helps with the views. Cracking vid as always :D
😂😂😂😂👌
Hey my name's Jordan Rider I'm from England and I love you videos there great entertainment and I think you should try phone repairs thanks you mate
Weird fault, Vince! Amazing it works now.
Really strange!
How 2 days ago
@@Epicinver Consider supporting your favorite content creators, if you can, and get early access to their content via Patreon.
Yes! Keep on commenting! I love the yellow Matt! Weird but really good fix.
4 Ohms on your meter probes isn't right - it'll really mess up the readings at the low end. Makes me wonder about the quality of the connectors as it isn't that old - I have an ancient Maplin one, I've never had problems like that.
You can use button RANGE in multimeter to put 0 resistance ohms when probes shorted to start clean slait
I think your meter probes are on the way out. Some of the strands inside the wire have probably broken from repeated bending. That would explain the varied readings you are getting for a 'short' reading.
My meter was doing this, I found out it was a bad connection with the selector dial, if you rotate the dial back and forth in quick succession it would clear the issue for a bit. To get a bit more of a permanent fix I dismantled my meter and cleaned the rotary contacts. Word of warning about opening the rotary type meters, they have very small and fragile parts on the dial, that HAVE to be in the correct place for the meter to ever work properly again.
We have this theory in my career, when a younger tech request an older tech to assist with resolving an issue that the problem magically dissapears because the gremlins in the electronics go into hiding from the older tech.
You may have crossed that bridge in this episode 🤣
Haha, I have...only though age though and NOT any skill level🤣🤣
I have a similiar theory for when I decide to go see a doctor for an ailment that I have. Usually when I do, the appointment is the next day and my body starts to magically feel better. 🤷♂
@@jonathan__g 😂
@@jonathan__g you're speaking facts at this point
The gremlins are real! I had a lot of clients with faulty laptops for repair and I only had to push the power on button. Magic!
all i'm going to say is there is thermal paste goop all over the sides of that CPU covering those resistors. To me, that seems it could cause problems. I would have cleaned that up and put new CPU thermal paste on the chip. Wondering if you dislodged some of that there enough to cause it to work again.
that was a short in some where on the board caused by some conductive dust or material when you force injected the board the short was burned out and gone .
You’ll have to do long term testing to find out if it’s a permanent fix or not, keep us updated.
Overheating issue perhaps put the console into some weird safe mode? After you cleaned, cleared it and forced voltage into it, it somehow reset the fault? A working theory 🤔
That xbox has a like beep sound but you fixed it really good keep up the good work
The yellow is toned down here.
I think it was that you had a primarily dark subject and the Auto exposure BLOOMED to a distracting kevel.
My guess is corrosion somewhere and the power supply added just enough to clear it. If mine I would dismantle the s and using a toothbrush with 99% iPa clean the board thoroughly and keep it from failing again looking especially for corrosion from liquid.
Heh ps5 vertial orientation. Nevermind that but back in the PS2 days I remember places trying to upsell horizontal stands... horizontal... what's it going to do, fall up into standing position and break?
Great video as always. What an unusual fault, no idea what causes that
All tech loves a bit of TLC and was bound to respond well to your magical touch 😀👍
Shame the Rolls isn’t so helpful ... give it time.
I would say you have caused a "magic smoke" moment on a tiny shorted component and completely blown it getting rid of the short, you just haven't noticed it either because it was on the other side of the board or just haven't seen it.
@27:20, about there you mention it jumped up to 80mA then straight back down suggesting you completely blew the shorted component? a shorted cap that isn't necessary? I would say that was the moment the short cleared and why. Since you had your mobile in the way we can't say for sure but it suggests the mentioned here. Might be another component not essential but shorted, I bet there was a possible puff of smoke somewhere we can't see as your phone is obscuring that area.
Sometimes a little pushing can change the mind of a stubborn board. Excellent fix Vince.
😂👌Cheers Todd
The fact that the coil looked different to every other one would have been my starting point especially as it's close to the vents ( and spills ) and there's no rule that says you can only put 1v in a 12v line? And injecting enough juice into the apu to start it with no heat sink was reckless.... So I'd suggest lifting that coil, and getting a better meter and leads....
If you short your probes for a few seconds, then press the (REL) button on your meter, that might subtract the resistance of your probe leads while measuring.
If there's high impedance on the probes, it would cause problems if you tried to measure current, so it's worth investigating.
It could have been a leaky or shorted ceramic cap somewhere on a supply line, but who knows…..
I’m in the repair business for over 22 years and this sometimes happens , can’t explain it.🤷♂️
Sometimes increased resistance of the leads indicates that your meter's battery may be getting low.
I think it will be fixable might be a power supply problem. or hard drive
My Series S had the same problem last summer. I scoured Internet to find an answer. Nothing. I concluded that since it (machine) is relatively new, it is normal to not have answers to this. It was a tormenting phase. I also dwelled on purchasing another power supply but seeing how Aliexpress was my only option to buy one, I dropped the idea.
Despite being irrationally wary of messing with the machines, I disassembled it, blew through it, brushed its reachable interiors and yet nothing.
After no play for a whole week, I decided to give it another try, turn it on. I did, and there! It was back by itself.
None of technicians could figure out how, and yet it had life.
The issue happened again yesterday and here I am looking for answers.
Nevertheless, I was cocksure yours won’t come back. haha
Congrats!
Just goes to show you that doing something you "shouldn't" (injecting more than 1V), can sometimes work in your favor.
To be fair, as there wasn't really a short, I would say he didn't really inject voltage, it's more like he used his own power supply to power up the board on the bench, which is something you do all the time in repair shops.
It's not really injected if you input the power through the intended socket, which he kinda did.
@@JonHaa87 Still worked when the power supply didn't
You can see at 27:57 a chip right in the middle of the board get warm before the apu does,yet afterwards that chip never gets warm again.
So whatever was shorting that chip out,got burnt at 27:58 and the short goes away and the apu starts to get warm.
Might be a good idea to pull that chip off the board and clean the area before reselling that xbox.or at minimum flood it will ipa and blow out the area with your hot air station at a low heat high air flow setting.
Hi, looks like they had the Xbox sat on carpet whilst in use with all that fluff. I wonder how many failures could be avoided with proper placement in a clean place.
I love the yellow mat, gives greater contrast on my pc :)
Problems that fix themselves are the best and worst problems to have.
Wow, congrats 👏.
Thanks Paul👍
i think a component shorted out on the powerrail and the psu has some short circuit of overcurrent protection while your labbench psu forces 12 volts in it without protection blowing the shorted component open maybe it was a capacitor or some chip
i also had some weird shorted component on something i repaired and by forcing power into it it drew 2 amps for 5 seconds and after that it dropped to the normal healthy draw
Thanks 309👌👍
Yellow mat! Algorithm! Cheers Vince!
Could it be a cap has dried out & gone out of spec, and by ext powering it u forced a charge back into it. If it stop again (the caps discharged) tests the caps.
Idk but a similar thing happened to my V3 Razr phone back in the day. Charger port wasn't working. Plugged it into my computer at the time to test and a trail of smoke came from it. Next thing I know the charger started working again. Burnt away whatever was blocking the connection.
Hey Vince. I'd really like to see another ebay challenge with yourself and tronixfix and others. Is that something you will be doing again. The vintage toys were awesome last time.
I have heard of components that get stuck in a software limbo where "something" doesn't get cleared when the power is turned off.
Forcing the power might have made whatever chip cycle completely through a error state and retried and been good at that point.
Or a tiny bit of crud was in the connector and your probe cleared it
What others have suggested about a tiny amount of corrosion being zapped away is probs very likely too.
I had this issue yesterday and after watching your video I thought i would take the jump and open it up and fix it myself. I didn't need to pass any voltage thank heavens but i was able to fix it, turns out it was dust. Dust on everything and everywhere but specifically on the PSU vents. After clearing the dust on the PSU vents and putting it back together it works just fine now!
How you clear the PSU?
Well done Vince my heart sank I thought the APU was goosed, maybe it was some kind of lockout? I have cleared a short before by keeping voltage injection on… great fix anyway hats off to you!
Cheers Gary👌👍
TheCodr has a video where he repairs a console by forcing power into it to burn out a tiny shorted diode. I cant remember what console it was, but my guess is this is a similar event.
I'd love to see different color mats - even pink might be interesting - perhaps color coordinate with the project/fix you're working on. While the blue mat has seen better days it's far from being past it (IMO). Keep up the interesting fixes - I know they're always interesting since even with my ADD I can almost make it through the longer videos and not be tempted to skip ahead. As for the voltage injection I really have no idea but I've seen devices that are "broken" come back after the power has been removed and several connectors and connections be shorted - adding power may have had a similar effect or sent a signal that it was okay to power on...
Maybe the APU has a temperature sense on it and the thermal past was not good and the APU was shutting down the power supply. When you redid the thermal paste it fixed the issue.
I have just fixed a dead Xbox Series S that was completely filled with dust and fluff; I checked that 12v was present from the PSU. Then, I stripped it down to clean it and replaced the thermal paste on the CPU, but it still would not turn on. I checked the board for obviously burnt components, where I noticed a cruddy 8-pin component (2D=V6F); after removing it to clean the pads, I then put it back. I then put the Xbox back together. To my surprise, it worked perfectly again. Ideally, it is best to do one thing at a time; otherwise, we never find the fix if we do too many things. In my case, I was not 100% convinced of the actual cause. Was it the new thermal paste? Was it the removal and replacement of the cruddy component? or was it just an overheating problem because of the dust and fluff? I finally found the problem after removing the Gremlin from my Henry Vacuum bag. My next project is to build a cage for Gremlins; I already know what they eat.
What do you mean by an 8 pin component? Like something that was soldered in or connected I’m with a plug?
The apu getting warm is normal when not even turned on because I have noticed with my series s it stays warm even when not in use and the fan does spin at a very low speed I find this very interesting that they do this and not just turn completely of like PlayStations do
I was thinking that some chip may have been stuck in an off state and injecting voltage was able to get it unstuck. I'm not electronics expert, so it's just a guess and probably wrong.
You had a short all maybe something that was maybe just a line filter and you blew the circuit open forcing voltage through causing an open circuit allowing the safety on the power supply to power the rest of the board
My guess is you had something shorted by mabe a solder spider web or something that shorted and by boosting power to it, whatever the short was, it was heated enough to cause it to clear by melting. As you stated, you couldn't find a short, do mabe it was a short, just not a total complete ground. Good video.
I do believe that you revived it by the internal heat in the APU, not as fun but remember you could not find any short and no heat did come throw even when you up the volt except for right there.
The console is not that old, and most of the APU's powerrail should be intact even after you burned out this one, but i would not sell it as i know i you aren't doing.
Is your ps3 fat still in service?
Great video. Love you content.
Could we see a version 2.0 boombox switch gameplay with a fancy pcb?
Al adapter's on one gaint pcb cramd in to that poor boombox tv? 😀 have a great one mate!
Black = Danger when Red is connected with DC that is why red wire is red to draw your eyes for attention, and that is why you had the spike in amperage when connecting the black wire is because the red lead was connected. think how you put a battery into a battery holder for a device like a wireless mouse, remote control, etc. so did you burn the short away? then the answer is yes, as the device is now working.
Is there a way to force 12v to the mobo without using a bench power supply?
Hi I have the same issue and exact same sound que that you have when jt turns off by itself ,what do I do?
Never messed around with XBoxes, but many years dealing with PCs. Wonder if it was something similar to the 5VSB(Stand By) circuit having an issue and keeping the MB from powering up with the switch. By bypassing the switch thru voltage injection, you may have toggled the lock off.
Surely the best test of a short would be to probe the pins that feed the whole board fro mthe PSU? If there's a short there early on, then you might have found the issue? I also guess there might be a ball issue on the APU, and a bit of heat got a ball to contact again?
May of had a resistive capacitor reading low ohm then cleared and became a capacitor again after the non protection 12 volt was applied.
Like some internal component moisture the protection was able to pick up on but was dried out when the component was warmed by the non protect PSU.
I remember the 360s could get hot enough to reflow themselves If the heatsink was removed and power was applied for around 3 minutes, therefore temporarily fixing their "Ring of Death" fault but I don't think yours got anywhere near hot enough to reflow itself..
So I'm going with the resistive / damp capacitor theory.
Nicely done.. I was going to go with "Nope" when the option was given at the beginning.
Lol.
Hi Mine started doing this ? I’m not amazing good at tech/disassemble/reassemble like this ,any recommendations on what I can do ?
Vince, very interesting. The only thought I have is that bypassing the internal power supply, you've burnt out the internal voltage protection circuit which may have had the fault and it will now work. If there is a voltage fluctuation now, damage will likely occur to the unit... This is like bypassing a safety switch on an HVAC unit that is designed to turn the unit off with covers removed. . Nice fix...
The internal voltage protection would largely be useless in the face of a fluctuation. Think about it, said fluctuation somehow bulldozed past his circuit breaker's own protections, into the PSU, then the Xbox? If it got past the first two layers, the Xbox was never surviving.
HVACs also handle far more electricity. Like a dangerously high amount more. And have no really... concealed power supply to speak of. It's in a neat little plastic thing for the Xbox, like your desktop PC and so on are too.
~240-250w (IIRC the max draw of an XSX/PS5) isn't really going to cause as much of a failure if it deviates a bit.
Actually yeah there's the thing. HVACs and space heaters don't really vary much in wattage. That's how you know one is failing if it does. A console is just a computer. They vary greatly and depending on task. And it might not even cause a bad failure. Sure lots of Xbox Series S/X's can't hit their max wattage, or gigahertz, or whatever, but it's okay. It won't really come up or be noticed 99% of the time.
I've seen some of Sorin's videos with 'stuck' i/o chips working again after voltage
Let's see if I understand, so by injecting 12 volts directly to the board, the short is eliminated? And were you able to save the 2 motherboards?