Great video, the biggest problem with this air pump BS is condesation which eventually F up the solenoid (you can google how much this useless BS costs). it's not gonna affect the car when this thing break, but subaru is so clever to disable cruise control whenever money light is on.
Thanks, and yes your correct. I'm happy I no longer have it in the car not only to free up space but also since I won't have to worry about forking up the money to buy another for when it breaks. Yup Subaru loves the money light. My impreza would brun through rear o2 sensor and everytime I could no longer use cruise, very frustrating.
I’m not subbed. I don’t know who you are but the information you just handed out is what I needed. I liked the video, you seem pretty chill when making content so imma look around the channel. Thanks for the info! 👍
That was very informative! I appreciate the walk through! I'm about to delete this whole system in my car and wasn't really sure what exactly needed to be removed!
Not a problem. Happy to help! Just make sure you are getting a tune for your car after you do this. Also the COBB AP will no longer be able to remove the CEL codes due to the green speed update. You'll have to get your car tuned using alternative methods.
I do have a cobb accessport but I got a stage 3 tune on the car. Although it had the check engine lights n codes, it still runs with no problem. I'm assuming the car will just need to idel a little to learn the secondary pump is no longer on and self adjust being that I have a stage 3 tune already. I still gotta take it to get dyno tuned for a custom map but I have stretched tires and ordered a new set of tires to mount on the white set of rims I got for the dyno tune appointment. I also bought a VMS vaccum block to stabilize the fuel pressure for the tune.
@@luistaveras551 ah I see, well honestly I'm not too sure. It might be okay but it would probay be a good idea to reach out to your tuner so you know exactly. Good luck with the dyno!
More room for activities hahaha legend!! Exactly where I'm upto right now doing tgv delete, secondary air pump and it's associated crap Very informative basically did the job for me dont have to think love it and thank you sharing your knowledge and wisdom and greatly appreciated sir
Good question and to be honest I'm not entirely sure! I have a feeling ecutek but I haven't followed up with my tuner just yet. One thing I'll have to do is get gauges to monitor some things now. I loved the AP for that exact reason, but it is what it is now.
Yeah I delete my SAI during my rebuild at 86k and got a etune w/ disabled SAI codes from my buddys tuner out in MA. Been meaning to get it dynontune but ended up stupid busy with work. Now with the Cobb going green, I am considering open source. Same here I still like the AP for monitoring purposes. Keep us updated with which tuning source and feedbacks, appreciate your videos!
@@moxiao86 I was in a similar situation except my car was parked an hour from me. So I only get weekends to work on the car. By the time I got it done it was too late and the green speed update was already pushed out. I have a pretty big backlog of videos to pump out but I'm having a hard time posting since I'm in the middle of moving. I'm hoping to have more frequent uploads soon! Hopefully some answers for open source aswell!
Hello I am very interested in your video. My Subara already has a long period problems with the secundaire airpump system and I am wondering if what you are explaning in this video also works for an European Subaru Forester SG 2006 no turbo EJ 204 Hope to hear from you Kind regards Javier
Hello Javier, Thanks for watching! From my understanding it should work for your car but I'm not 100% sure on that. Another issue is your car will get a couple of check engine lights if you do this. So you'll have to get a tuner to remove them for you. Hope this helps!
Just curious... I know this system is for emissions, but what specifically does it do, and are there any drawbacks to removing it? Great video btw, very informative!
Basically it forces fresh air into your engine. Most people delete them when the air pump dies. I did it since my car was already being tuned and i wanted more room in my engine bay. Plus it just looks cleaner without it.
Great Video, I'm putting a type RA on my '14 hatch WRX/sti turbo, secondary air pump solenoid is on the way. What block off plates did you use? The Ebay link attached didn't work for me. I'm also getting a tune after I put the new engine in, anything I should watch out for?
Thanks! I just used some generic block off plates I found on eBay, guessing the seller doesn't sell them anymore. You can just do a general search for block off plates on eBay, another option if check your local aftermarket parts shop for Torqued Solutions plates. At the end of the days its just thin pieces of metal, brand doesn't matter too much. If your keeping your hatch fairly stock there shouldn't be much to look out for. Just make sure you follow the break in procedures!
Hello friend excellent video. I am looking for an explanation since I have my Subaru without the second pump but it still has the valve with its sensor. I bought the car a year ago, after all this time the engine light came on indicating that there is a fault with the second injection pump. could you suggest me what to do
Thanks for watching. Well it sounds like you have 2 options. You can either replace the valve with sensor and put the system back to stock. Or delete the entire system and get a tuner to remove your CEL codes. Depending on where you live and if you have emissions may help your decision.
Good Video Congratulations, I have a question when the other secondary air valve was disconnected and when the air pump connector was removed, did it generate any code in the scanner, did the check engine light up on the dashboard?
Thanks, any part of the secondary air pump being disconnected/removed will cause a CEL to appear. So you'll need a tuner to remove the codes for you. If you are using a COBB AP the codes cannot be removed unfortunately.
Thanks for the video, it was really informative! I have a couple questions for you though and would really appreaciate some feedback. My (2015) STi recently threw a code about one of the solendoids being stuck open. I dont really care about the extra hardware staying in the engine bay so for now I just disabled the SAP related codes with a Tactrix Openport cable which has worked fine to clear the code and prevent it from coming back. My questions are: 1. Do you think leaving the whole system in place with one of the solenoids stuck open would cause any harm to any other part of the engine since this whole system is just for emissions? 2. If so, do you think removing just the air pump itself and capping/plugging the ends of the hoses that attach the the air pump would effectively be the same as installing the block off plates, minus all the hassle? I'm not nearly mechanically inclined enough to pull and engine or even the intake manifold and turbo to fix this issue so I'm looking for another possible solution. Thanks!
Not a problem, happy to see it helped! Since you already deactivated the codes I believe the answer is yes you'll be fine. The system is just for emissions and only is working when you first start the car. I've never heard of anyone plugging the hoses but I can't see why that wouldn't work. I'd say give it a try and see what happens and let me know how it goes!
Hey just did my delete a few days ago on my sti. I was data logging for an etune before I did my air pump delete. Car was already on limp mode since the stuck open and close codes were already on. Car was still pushing around 15 psi with full throttle Limp mode, after I did my delete car can barely push past 10 psi. I have not detected a boost leak anywhere AP doesn’t show any leak codes. Buddy says that car ain’t pushing boost like before bc of the delete, is this true? Dyno day is coming up in a couple days and I’m freakin out bc Idk why my car ain’t pushing boost like before
Hey, that's unfortunate to hear. So this video was filmed before COBB released their Green Speed update. Basically the AP can no longer tune out any codes/mods that delete emission parts. You can confirm with your tuner but I'm pretty sure this is your issue. I'm also going to have this issue. You can either reinstall your air pump so you can keep your AP, or go open sourced tuning. I will be going open sourced. You can also go standalone ECU but that's overkill. It's really frustrating, trust me I know. But it is what it is unfortunately. Good luck!
Hello, my name is Odd Jorstad. I would like to have gotten hold of these 2 hoods for my Subaru forester 2006mod Petrol, as I am going to remove the air pump and everything that has to do with this. Do you know that I can buy something like this?without turbo.. Mr. Odd jorstad
@@zach_lushOk, thanks for the info. Have tried to find something online, do you have a link to one of these dealers who might have something like this. This is a Subaru Forester, without turbo. (Engine code EJ204 MVh Odd
Hey man so how did you end up dealing with the codes being thrown after this? I really want to ditch this shit but getting a check engine light that wont let me use Sport Sharp isnt an option for me. Any advice is appreciated thanks 🤙🏼
Hey, so originally my codes were deleted by my tuner using the COBB AP. But then the green speed update happened which made it where emission related codes could not be deleted. We then switched to open source and all my codes were deleted. I'm not sure but you might be able to delete your code using ECUFlash without getting an entire new tune. You'll have to look into this though.
I'm assuming after I removed all of this? No, I did not notice any issues. But also my car was tuned to have all of this removed. If it wasn't tuned there would for sure be issues.
Hey mate I've already had the check engine light come up, I'm assuming it's fine to drive anyway until I can deal with it yeah? Appreciate the vid. Will be fun to get this sorted whilst the block is in the car. Also what brand blockout plate did you get?
Yeah you should be fine. It's only used during cold starts, afterwards it is not used. Also not a problem! Yes doing this in the car is a bit more work, I would make sure your doing other things then just an air pump delete! For the brand you can get torque solutions ones. I just found an ebay seller that was selling some fairly cheap ($20). It's not branded but does the same thing.
Great video, the biggest problem with this air pump BS is condesation which eventually F up the solenoid (you can google how much this useless BS costs). it's not gonna affect the car when this thing break, but subaru is so clever to disable cruise control whenever money light is on.
Thanks, and yes your correct. I'm happy I no longer have it in the car not only to free up space but also since I won't have to worry about forking up the money to buy another for when it breaks. Yup Subaru loves the money light. My impreza would brun through rear o2 sensor and everytime I could no longer use cruise, very frustrating.
I’m not subbed. I don’t know who you are but the information you just handed out is what I needed. I liked the video, you seem pretty chill when making content so imma look around the channel. Thanks for the info! 👍
Lol, no problem!
That was very informative! I appreciate the walk through! I'm about to delete this whole system in my car and wasn't really sure what exactly needed to be removed!
Not a problem. Happy to help! Just make sure you are getting a tune for your car after you do this. Also the COBB AP will no longer be able to remove the CEL codes due to the green speed update. You'll have to get your car tuned using alternative methods.
I do have a cobb accessport but I got a stage 3 tune on the car. Although it had the check engine lights n codes, it still runs with no problem. I'm assuming the car will just need to idel a little to learn the secondary pump is no longer on and self adjust being that I have a stage 3 tune already. I still gotta take it to get dyno tuned for a custom map but I have stretched tires and ordered a new set of tires to mount on the white set of rims I got for the dyno tune appointment. I also bought a VMS vaccum block to stabilize the fuel pressure for the tune.
@@luistaveras551 ah I see, well honestly I'm not too sure. It might be okay but it would probay be a good idea to reach out to your tuner so you know exactly. Good luck with the dyno!
我制作了一个二次进气模拟,可以取代这一套系统,由模拟器提供正确的信号给ECU。欺骗ECU不报故障。
@@唐永朋 I had to use Google translate, but how did the simulation work?
More room for activities hahaha legend!! Exactly where I'm upto right now doing tgv delete, secondary air pump and it's associated crap Very informative basically did the job for me dont have to think love it and thank you sharing your knowledge and wisdom and greatly appreciated sir
Not a problem, happy the video helped!
Dude, its an awesome video, you helped me a lot.
I'm happy to hear this!
Just curious, what tuning software are you/your turner using since Cobb no longer allow disabling any emissions related codes?
Good question and to be honest I'm not entirely sure! I have a feeling ecutek but I haven't followed up with my tuner just yet. One thing I'll have to do is get gauges to monitor some things now. I loved the AP for that exact reason, but it is what it is now.
Yeah I delete my SAI during my rebuild at 86k and got a etune w/ disabled SAI codes from my buddys tuner out in MA. Been meaning to get it dynontune but ended up stupid busy with work. Now with the Cobb going green, I am considering open source. Same here I still like the AP for monitoring purposes. Keep us updated with which tuning source and feedbacks, appreciate your videos!
@@moxiao86 I was in a similar situation except my car was parked an hour from me. So I only get weekends to work on the car. By the time I got it done it was too late and the green speed update was already pushed out. I have a pretty big backlog of videos to pump out but I'm having a hard time posting since I'm in the middle of moving. I'm hoping to have more frequent uploads soon! Hopefully some answers for open source aswell!
@@moxiao86 but thank you for watching 😀
@@moxiao86 can you please PLEASE refer me to the person who got this done for you? Struggling right now. Thank you!!
Hello
I am very interested in your video.
My Subara already has a long period problems with the secundaire airpump system and I am wondering if what you are explaning in this video also works for an European Subaru Forester SG 2006 no turbo EJ 204
Hope to hear from you
Kind regards
Javier
Hello Javier,
Thanks for watching! From my understanding it should work for your car but I'm not 100% sure on that. Another issue is your car will get a couple of check engine lights if you do this. So you'll have to get a tuner to remove them for you.
Hope this helps!
Just curious... I know this system is for emissions, but what specifically does it do, and are there any drawbacks to removing it? Great video btw, very informative!
Basically it forces fresh air into your engine. Most people delete them when the air pump dies. I did it since my car was already being tuned and i wanted more room in my engine bay. Plus it just looks cleaner without it.
Excellent video. What codes need to be disabled?
Thank you. It would basically be a bunch of secondary air pump related codes. They would need to be removed by a tuner though.
Great Video, I'm putting a type RA on my '14 hatch WRX/sti turbo, secondary air pump solenoid is on the way. What block off plates did you use? The Ebay link attached didn't work for me. I'm also getting a tune after I put the new engine in, anything I should watch out for?
Thanks! I just used some generic block off plates I found on eBay, guessing the seller doesn't sell them anymore. You can just do a general search for block off plates on eBay, another option if check your local aftermarket parts shop for Torqued Solutions plates. At the end of the days its just thin pieces of metal, brand doesn't matter too much. If your keeping your hatch fairly stock there shouldn't be much to look out for. Just make sure you follow the break in procedures!
@@zach_lush thanks man I appreciate it.
Hello friend excellent video. I am looking for an explanation since I have my Subaru without the second pump but it still has the valve with its sensor. I bought the car a year ago, after all this time the engine light came on indicating that there is a fault with the second injection pump. could you suggest me what to do
Thanks for watching. Well it sounds like you have 2 options. You can either replace the valve with sensor and put the system back to stock. Or delete the entire system and get a tuner to remove your CEL codes. Depending on where you live and if you have emissions may help your decision.
@@zach_lush Thank you very much for your answer.
Good Video Congratulations, I have a question when the other secondary air valve was disconnected and when the air pump connector was removed, did it generate any code in the scanner, did the check engine light up on the dashboard?
Thanks, any part of the secondary air pump being disconnected/removed will cause a CEL to appear. So you'll need a tuner to remove the codes for you. If you are using a COBB AP the codes cannot be removed unfortunately.
Thanks for the video, it was really informative! I have a couple questions for you though and would really appreaciate some feedback.
My (2015) STi recently threw a code about one of the solendoids being stuck open. I dont really care about the extra hardware staying in the engine bay so for now I just disabled the SAP related codes with a Tactrix Openport cable which has worked fine to clear the code and prevent it from coming back.
My questions are:
1. Do you think leaving the whole system in place with one of the solenoids stuck open would cause any harm to any other part of the engine since this whole system is just for emissions?
2. If so, do you think removing just the air pump itself and capping/plugging the ends of the hoses that attach the the air pump would effectively be the same as installing the block off plates, minus all the hassle?
I'm not nearly mechanically inclined enough to pull and engine or even the intake manifold and turbo to fix this issue so I'm looking for another possible solution.
Thanks!
Not a problem, happy to see it helped!
Since you already deactivated the codes I believe the answer is yes you'll be fine. The system is just for emissions and only is working when you first start the car.
I've never heard of anyone plugging the hoses but I can't see why that wouldn't work. I'd say give it a try and see what happens and let me know how it goes!
Hey just did my delete a few days ago on my sti. I was data logging for an etune before I did my air pump delete. Car was already on limp mode since the stuck open and close codes were already on. Car was still pushing around 15 psi with full throttle Limp mode, after I did my delete car can barely push past 10 psi. I have not detected a boost leak anywhere AP doesn’t show any leak codes. Buddy says that car ain’t pushing boost like before bc of the delete, is this true? Dyno day is coming up in a couple days and I’m freakin out bc Idk why my car ain’t pushing boost like before
Hey, that's unfortunate to hear. So this video was filmed before COBB released their Green Speed update. Basically the AP can no longer tune out any codes/mods that delete emission parts. You can confirm with your tuner but I'm pretty sure this is your issue. I'm also going to have this issue. You can either reinstall your air pump so you can keep your AP, or go open sourced tuning. I will be going open sourced. You can also go standalone ECU but that's overkill. It's really frustrating, trust me I know. But it is what it is unfortunately. Good luck!
Good job, thanks
No problem!
Hello, my name is Odd Jorstad. I would like to have gotten hold of these 2 hoods for my Subaru forester 2006mod Petrol, as I am going to remove the air pump and everything that has to do with this. Do you know that I can buy something like this?without turbo.. Mr. Odd jorstad
Hey Odd, are referring to the block off plates? You can try ebay or any local aftermarket car shop to you. They aren't too hard to find. Good luck!
@@zach_lushOk, thanks for the info. Have tried to find something online, do you have a link to one of these dealers who might have something like this. This is a Subaru Forester, without turbo. (Engine code EJ204
MVh Odd
@@oddjorstad5007 this isn't something you can get from a subaru dealer. Just search up 'subaru air pump block off plates'. You can buy them online.
@@zach_lushThank you very much for the good tips..
Hey, what do you do with this hole then, after you removed the pipe? Top hole, look for 5 minutes of film..
We're you able to disable with ecutek? Or did you go a different route?
Got the car tuned with RomRaider and ECUFlash
Hey man so how did you end up dealing with the codes being thrown after this? I really want to ditch this shit but getting a check engine light that wont let me use Sport Sharp isnt an option for me. Any advice is appreciated thanks 🤙🏼
Hey, so originally my codes were deleted by my tuner using the COBB AP. But then the green speed update happened which made it where emission related codes could not be deleted. We then switched to open source and all my codes were deleted. I'm not sure but you might be able to delete your code using ECUFlash without getting an entire new tune. You'll have to look into this though.
@@zach_lush Appreciate it man
Could you just remove the pump and block the hose?
Technically yes you should be able too. But most people do it this way to remove as much as they can to clean up the bay.
Weird question, did you find any issues with electric throttle control, or electric throttle control relay?
I'm assuming after I removed all of this? No, I did not notice any issues. But also my car was tuned to have all of this removed. If it wasn't tuned there would for sure be issues.
@@zach_lush thanks for the info.
@@trojangpete8 no problem, good luck!
If you are all stock and remove this pump along with all the other EGR crap, will you need a tune?
Yes you will, but you can no longer get it tuned using the COBB AP with these deletes
@@zach_lush fuck there goes all my hopes. I wanted to get rid of this stupid thing so bad
@@brother_maleik well you can still get rid of it. Just need to use a different tuning method. I went with opensource using RomRaider and ECUFlash.
How does it pass emissions inspection
Where I live we don't have it.
5:00 hand tight with a power tool?
Used the power tool to thread them in, but ended up using a ratchet to tighten it to avoid stripping it. No uga ugas were used
how many hours did this take you?
I dont know exactly, I had my engine out since it needed to be rebuilt. But I would estimate 5-6 hours if you had to do it on a running engine.
I’ve got a 2012 wrx and I’m about to do this but I’m not sure how to tell which one is the barometric sensor
Once you get in there you'll be able to tell. I believe it's the one closer to your firewall, I may be wrong though.
Nice video...
Thank you
You have the pump still?
The air pump? Yes I do
@@zach_lush wanna sell it? lol
@@robertbunting1769 put it on ebay
@@zach_lush did you already sell it you're saying?
@@robertbunting1769 sorry, let me rephrase that. I'm putting it up on eBay within the next week.
Hey mate I've already had the check engine light come up, I'm assuming it's fine to drive anyway until I can deal with it yeah?
Appreciate the vid.
Will be fun to get this sorted whilst the block is in the car.
Also what brand blockout plate did you get?
Yeah you should be fine. It's only used during cold starts, afterwards it is not used.
Also not a problem!
Yes doing this in the car is a bit more work, I would make sure your doing other things then just an air pump delete!
For the brand you can get torque solutions ones. I just found an ebay seller that was selling some fairly cheap ($20). It's not branded but does the same thing.