Hey Karl. I get this with all my metallic item... including my TV edging. When I'm groubded... bare feet on floor... it's fine. But if I step on my metal driving rig... everything is buzzy... TV, metal shifter everything.
Wowzers 3 years ago! I’m having trouble with my simucube 2 disconnecting in game for a split second and reconnects and this has only started since adding motion to my rig!! Works perfect when the servers are turned off! 😩
From the description and the cure, it sounds more like it could possibly also be a ground loop between the wheel and the shifter through the rig than just static or emi. Do you have continuity between that shifter’s metal body and the USB ground or shield? Ground loops cause all sorts of weird problems!
@@KarlGosling I had a really odd problem with buzz on one of my shakers, but only when my G2 was turned on AND with WMR portal open. Was scratching my head until I realised somehow between the 3 of them (G2, PC and separately powered amp) it was setting up a ground loop through the motherboard audio line - installed a ground loop isolator on the line out to the amp and problem solved. They can be really awkward to diagnose as they can cause all sorts of problems... USB, amps, powered hubs, metal rigs etc are all a ground loop's wet dream! You can also get ground isolators for USB 2.0 pretty cheap so something to experiment with if you keep having problems.
Think I have had the same problem a few years ago with the same shifter, but thought it was the game as it only occurred with certain titles, not all of them, not sure I fixed it at the time, just disconnected the shifter and used flappy paddles for those titles. Great Video, very informative.
I put ferrite chokes on all cables going to and from my sim rig, as a tip from Sim Racing Garage. I also try to not passthrough multiple devices through on device (ie. connecting everything this to the wheelbase). That has fixed a lot of wonky stuff happening with my equipment.
Very helpful. Im actually experiencing something similar with my clutch on tlcm's. If I plug it into the wheelbase it always shows as about 20% input with no pressure on pedal. If i plug into pc it correctly shows 0%. Looks like its time to start wiggling the shifter around to see if that affects it. Thanks!
Did you ever find the issue? My TLCM's brake goes crazy when connected using rj12. Through USB its fine. Thrustmaster support can't even figure it out.
@@StickyPlasters Sadly no fix on my end, but It has since become non-issue. This will depend on what game you play, but calibrate your clutch inside of the game.
Had a similar problem with my thrustmaster tlcm pedals so sent them back. Been alot of reports on Facebook about the same problem and people having to ground there rigs
I’ve had issues with my DD2. The wheel position sensor would jump about causing dangerous wheel movements. In the end I have isolated the bolts to gt1 evo rig. I also purchased a usb ground loop isolator. Not happened since. I think the interference was from usb and not a grounding issue as I have not stopped isolating the bolts and the problem is gone,
9:46/13:48 While the Logitech pedal base is plastic, mounting screws thread thru plastic into pedal metal, which is wired to a contact in its DB-9 connector. You may notice that Logitech pedals connected e.g. to G29 read backward. That can be changed by swapping ground and voltage to pedal potentiometers, e.g. in your adapter to Thrustmaster wheel base, but if that is done WITHOUT changing which side of pots is grounded inside pedals, then pedal mounting screws will have potentiometer voltage on them, which if grounded back e.g. thru TH8A, will short that voltage, killing pedal potentiometer output signals. In other words, neither a static nor EMI problem.
Whilst this makes total sense surely it can't be right? Every single person who uses Logitech pedals with a TM base on a metal rig would have non functioning pedals?!
@@KarlGosling As you noted, grounding does not consistently occur. Perhaps not all Logitech pedal adapters for Thrustmaster reverse the wiring. Image of pot wire grounding: preview.redd.it/00s6ftldk5251.jpg?auto=webp&s=da9abda7b27e86c9bf652fa42c6b40dcc5a3d576
Yeah maybe they don't, I don't actually remember if mine showed inversed in the control panel or in game, it was the official TM adapter. But yeah as soon as you said it I could picture the ground wire bolted to the pedal mate.
@@KarlGosling I took an Ohmmeter to my T-slot extrusion rig, and there is no continuity among many of its members. Aluminum oxidizes quickly, and that oxide is an insulator. Where there is continuity, it seems to be mostly where screws are long enough to extend thru T-nuts and dig into extrusions.
Not sure isolating the fanatec shifter from the rig will help, seems to me i had the issue when i had a chassis built from wood. I could be mistaken but i think so. My guess is u would have to isolate something inside the shifter itself
Yeah it may not help at all but it's easy to test it out if it happens again, as you say something inside is most likely the issue but you never know?! :)
Wow timely video! I've been recently having an issue with my logitech throttle pedal where it seems to flicker just under full throttle. Wondering if it's a dust or connection issue or what?
Sim racing is just a horrible conglomeration of mismatched components. Hand brakes made by company x, pedals y, wind sim made here, bass shakers made there, all using different software that all needs to work together. It is just a reciepe for trouble.
Kinda makes me wish sim racing hardware was wireless, even when it's bolted to a rig. Seems like the wheelbase should provide a path for everything plugged into it to discharge into, but nobody does that for some reason.
I had an issue with my Logitech pedals not working properly.... Turned out I had dropped a joint inside the accelerator lol
No way. 🤣
Hey Karl.
I get this with all my metallic item... including my TV edging.
When I'm groubded... bare feet on floor... it's fine. But if I step on my metal driving rig... everything is buzzy... TV, metal shifter everything.
Thank you , been having this issue with my gt omega art.
This is great info Karl. You may have given a stay of execution to my Logitech pedals.
Wowzers 3 years ago! I’m having trouble with my simucube 2 disconnecting in game for a split second and reconnects and this has only started since adding motion to my rig!!
Works perfect when the servers are turned off! 😩
Yeah EMI mate... it's a pain!
From the description and the cure, it sounds more like it could possibly also be a ground loop between the wheel and the shifter through the rig than just static or emi. Do you have continuity between that shifter’s metal body and the USB ground or shield? Ground loops cause all sorts of weird problems!
Yes it could well be! If we're talking about my Fanatec shifter I'll check if the problem comes back, the TM/logitech setup was years ago.
@@KarlGosling I had a really odd problem with buzz on one of my shakers, but only when my G2 was turned on AND with WMR portal open. Was scratching my head until I realised somehow between the 3 of them (G2, PC and separately powered amp) it was setting up a ground loop through the motherboard audio line - installed a ground loop isolator on the line out to the amp and problem solved. They can be really awkward to diagnose as they can cause all sorts of problems... USB, amps, powered hubs, metal rigs etc are all a ground loop's wet dream! You can also get ground isolators for USB 2.0 pretty cheap so something to experiment with if you keep having problems.
Think I have had the same problem a few years ago with the same shifter, but thought it was the game as it only occurred with certain titles, not all of them, not sure I fixed it at the time, just disconnected the shifter and used flappy paddles for those titles. Great Video, very informative.
I put ferrite chokes on all cables going to and from my sim rig, as a tip from Sim Racing Garage. I also try to not passthrough multiple devices through on device (ie. connecting everything this to the wheelbase). That has fixed a lot of wonky stuff happening with my equipment.
Yeah perfectly good solution, it's a shame we have to though.
@@KarlGosling agreed. It is also funny how this sort of thing seems to more common on PC, and less on console, from the reports I've seen.
@@7MBoosted this is happening with my fanatec setup on a ps5 right now. It blows. But I’m glad I found this feed
Very helpful. Im actually experiencing something similar with my clutch on tlcm's. If I plug it into the wheelbase it always shows as about 20% input with no pressure on pedal. If i plug into pc it correctly shows 0%. Looks like its time to start wiggling the shifter around to see if that affects it. Thanks!
Did you ever find the issue? My TLCM's brake goes crazy when connected using rj12. Through USB its fine. Thrustmaster support can't even figure it out.
@@StickyPlasters Sadly no fix on my end, but It has since become non-issue. This will depend on what game you play, but calibrate your clutch inside of the game.
Had a similar problem with my thrustmaster tlcm pedals so sent them back. Been alot of reports on Facebook about the same problem and people having to ground there rigs
I’ve had issues with my DD2. The wheel position sensor would jump about causing dangerous wheel movements. In the end I have isolated the bolts to gt1 evo rig. I also purchased a usb ground loop isolator. Not happened since. I think the interference was from usb and not a grounding issue as I have not stopped isolating the bolts and the problem is gone,
What type of isolator did you use? My pedals seem to give some interference and I'd like to try one, I assume it still passes data?
@@danielfleming43 I can’t send a link but search Amazon for Nobsound USB to USB Isolator
@@danielfleming43 yes it still passes data
@@gavinguy148 cheers mate
Last thing you need with a powerful wheel like the DD2!
9:46/13:48 While the Logitech pedal base is plastic, mounting screws thread thru plastic into pedal metal, which is wired to a contact in its DB-9 connector.
You may notice that Logitech pedals connected e.g. to G29 read backward.
That can be changed by swapping ground and voltage to pedal potentiometers, e.g. in your adapter to Thrustmaster wheel base,
but if that is done WITHOUT changing which side of pots is grounded inside pedals, then pedal mounting screws will have potentiometer voltage on them,
which if grounded back e.g. thru TH8A, will short that voltage, killing pedal potentiometer output signals.
In other words, neither a static nor EMI problem.
Whilst this makes total sense surely it can't be right? Every single person who uses Logitech pedals with a TM base on a metal rig would have non functioning pedals?!
@@KarlGosling As you noted, grounding does not consistently occur. Perhaps not all Logitech pedal adapters for Thrustmaster reverse the wiring.
Image of pot wire grounding: preview.redd.it/00s6ftldk5251.jpg?auto=webp&s=da9abda7b27e86c9bf652fa42c6b40dcc5a3d576
Yeah maybe they don't, I don't actually remember if mine showed inversed in the control panel or in game, it was the official TM adapter.
But yeah as soon as you said it I could picture the ground wire bolted to the pedal mate.
@@KarlGosling I took an Ohmmeter to my T-slot extrusion rig, and there is no continuity among many of its members. Aluminum oxidizes quickly, and that oxide is an insulator. Where there is continuity, it seems to be mostly where screws are long enough to extend thru T-nuts and dig into extrusions.
Not sure isolating the fanatec shifter from the rig will help, seems to me i had the issue when i had a chassis built from wood. I could be mistaken but i think so. My guess is u would have to isolate something inside the shifter itself
Yeah it may not help at all but it's easy to test it out if it happens again, as you say something inside is most likely the issue but you never know?! :)
Good advice there Karl 👍
Wow timely video! I've been recently having an issue with my logitech throttle pedal where it seems to flicker just under full throttle. Wondering if it's a dust or connection issue or what?
This is a common problem, clean the potentiometers.
So if you are sim racing with your neighbour, technically he can use an EMI attack to slow you down haha.
lol He could!
Mate your a bloody legend
Thanks! lol
"As always there will be waffle" = thumbs up :)
lol thanks Phil!
Thank you
Sim racing is just a horrible conglomeration of mismatched components. Hand brakes made by company x, pedals y, wind sim made here, bass shakers made there, all using different software that all needs to work together. It is just a reciepe for trouble.
This is very true!
Kinda makes me wish sim racing hardware was wireless, even when it's bolted to a rig. Seems like the wheelbase should provide a path for everything plugged into it to discharge into, but nobody does that for some reason.