These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend: 2011-2013 Four Bolt Pulley (verify bolt count) Water Pump- amzn.to/4fguOat 2014+ Three Bolt Pulley (verify bolt count) Water Pump- amzn.to/46j3Pr1 Upper Radiator Hose O-Ring- amzn.to/3zX2EBl Thermostat Housing to Water Pump Gasket- amzn.to/3WBhCVt Updated "T" Connector- amzn.to/3YfIz3b 2011-2014 Degas Bottle Hose- amzn.to/4bXZWJd Updated Yellow P-OAT Coolant Concentrate (x2)- amzn.to/4fistMy UVIEW Coolant Vacuum Fill Tool- amzn.to/4bSNIBr Torque Specs: Water Pump 180 inch lbs plus 60 degrees Water Pump Pulley Bolts 18ft lbs Main Belt Tensioner Bolt 35ft lbs Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
If you're going to replace your water pump, save yourself time and replace the heater hose assembly 'Y' pipe and the upper radiator hose while you're in there. I replaced my pump and two days later the Y pipe started leaking. Great video!
I replaced mine around 80,000. + miles. No leaks but squeaking until warm, replaced belts, pulleys, tensioner with still with same noise. It ended up being the water pump. Actually pretty easy on the 2014.
A great DIY video. Anyone should be able to follow this and get their waterpump changed. Definitely one of the best auto mechanic channels on TH-cam. Thanks
Performed this repair on my 2012 FX4 about 18 months ago. Truck had around 144K miles when the pump failed. The impeller actually broke off the back of the pump. Took the opportunity to replace all the hoses, including the heater hoses, as they were original to the truck. One tip I would recommend for the 11-14 owners attempting this repair. When you go to drain the radiator, get yourself about 18 inches of 1/4" vacuum hose and put the hose on the drain tube before opening the petcock. This will allow you to better direct the draining coolant into a pan.
Tons of help. Job went smoothly on my 16’. Water pump was definitely cooked. Only problem I ran into was breaking a constant tension clamp on the thermostat housing. Die grinder to the rescue. Best Ford repair channel on TH-cam!
When ever I did a job like that while working in the City Fleet, I usually ordered what I needed, plus, like you, I made sure to order the parts around the job, because as you know, time, mileage, and vibration will cause parts to leak or break. We step up that cause when we remove them if they're in the way. When people would ask why I'm changing other parts beside the original one I say, "I do the job once!" Eliminate comebacks! Good one Brian! Thanks for the video.
Did my 2013 F150 4x4 at 165000Kms along with orings I agree to much plastic being used by all manufacturers Great video Greetings from Vancouver Island,British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦
I have a 2012 FX4 5.0 and my water pump developed a slow leak when it had about 120,000 miles a couple of years ago. Interestingly enough, I had purchased a Gates water pump from Rock Auto but, during my install, I found out one of the holes in the pump wasn’t allowing the bolt to thread. Thankfully, the Ford dealer wasn’t far away and went and got the Motorcraft. Install was easy after that. Everyone is free to do what they want but I’ve learned to go OEM for more important parts. I replaced all of the hoses, belts, and the new yellow coolant. Not an overly difficult job.
Amazing how easy the new pump went in after watching the how hard the old one was to pull out. I wish the water pump on the 3.5 2008 Taurus was external and easy to replace like this F150. You did a video years ago on replacing it.
LOL... Figures, I was looking for this video about 2 weeks ago! Had to change mine on July 4th. Something easy became a pain in the arse. Didn't realize there were 3 and 4 hole water pumps! Obviously, I installed the wrong one first. Thanx for the info though!
Mine (2014 f150 xlt) went out @ 34,000 miles on the innerstate in the winter in Wisconsin. $500 later, I was on the road again. Also, sliding rear window defrost went out where the electric connection is made. Bypassed as I didn't want to spend $1,000 for window replacement and could use the side mirror defrost. Last year I had a continuous loud clicking under the dash.. had to replace the vent door actuator..$350..also paint started to peel off the trim around the window.. $500.. 2 years ago had to replace the brake modulator$2,300..my truck just turned over 50,000 about a month ago. I'll never buy a P.O.S. ford EVER again! 😕
Another great vid. I've been kind of helping a friend with a lot of maintenance issues on his '13 F-150 w/5.0. His trans cooler line just busted and I found you with that video you did on those. It has 140K miles. What else do you recommend changing for preventative maint?
So many plastic nylon fluid connections that can barely be touched without creating a leak... If I had one of these trucks and was keeping it long term, I would look into eliminating as many as feasible.
Doing the WP in my 2013 f150 5.0 today. When I got the truck it has green coolant in it and still does. I replaced the O ring in the upper rad hose a few months ago and I added universal green antifreeze with Ford being ok to use all makes and models. The truck never ran hot or showed any signs of anything being wrong, good heat always ran at normal temps. And the water pump was replaced over a year ago but is leaking now so I bought a new gates HD pump and I went down the rabbit hole of coolant colors which is all over the place. So I'm dropping the pump so should I just use the universal green or yellow which I know most the coolant is fairly new from doing the O ring it lost a lot. So any suggestions.
Does someone have the part number for the water heater coolant o ring. The red one he used? Just got done with this job, and my truck it leaking from that exact spot.
Got a '17 5.0L. What's the stock temp stamped on the T-stat? Was wanting to get everything ordered and didnt want to have to pull it just to look for the temp number and not having a running pickup.
This is a job I'll be doing in the future on my 2016 F150 with 113,000 miles. Thanks to FordTechMakuloco, it looks perfect for a DIY garage mechanic like myself.
I know you use engine coolant but I've used Super Lube O-Ring Silicone Grease for a long time and still use it on my 2012 F150 5L eng. I guess it's just preference. By the way, I replaced the "Y" pipe with one made of aluminum and it seems to work fine. The plastic one seemed not good enough.
I use silicone vacuum grease on all o-rings actually but say to use coolant as that is the approved method. Why would the metal T connector be any better? Wait till the quick connect end rots and leaks, have fun with that.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks for your response. I guess I'm old fashioned, I just like metal parts over plastic ones. I do see your point with the quick connect end. Thanks for all your videos. You present a lot of knowledge to all of us who watch. All the best to ya'.
Hi, I have a quick related cooling system question; I have an '08 Ranger 4.0. My radiator drain started leaking due to me opening and closing in frequently in working with the stupid thermostat housing. I figured the drain plug would be like the earlier Rangers or possibly my 2000 F350 but its not. I'm not sure the plug on my Ranger is supposed to come completely out but I got it out and replaced the O ring but couldn't get it back in.. I bought a NEW plug that is used in newer Ford's and my friend was successful in getting IT in but it doesn't seem to fit right and IT also leaks. I now have the radiator out because I was going to replace it. I was thinking of removing the NEW plug and putting the old one (With its NEW O ring back in. Any insight on this? Thank you!!
Hi can you help I have 2017 Ford edge I am getting a intermittent does not do it all the time thump / bang from rear when pulling away and on occasions turning left or right no grinding or wining that I can here fluids have been changed all round it has been doing this before fluid done please have you got any ideas thanks. Eric
Great tutorial. Currently ordering parts to do the job before my system starts leaking. What was the part number for the red o-ring attached to the hose connected to the water pump? I didn't see it on the parts list. Edit: Found it Part # AC3Z8527A
Glad my 5.3 in my Tahoe is just shove the blue kid's pool under water pump. Take off lower hose and it drain in a rapid fashion and remove upper. Pop the belt and bolts and remove the leaker. Transfer pulley and replace pump, belt, hoses and fill it up. I honestly think it takes longer to type this out. 😂 🍻. The blue dollar store pool works great and when it craps out in a couple years you buy a new one for double the price since inflation isn't real.
I am the VMO of my family's four vehicles (3 Fords / 1 Mazda 3 (Ford). Whenever I have reason to remove a throttle body, I always slap in a new gasket/o-ring. Am I being overly cautious in doing that or is it fine to get away reusing the original??
Love you videos man. Hope you answer this. What is your opinion on the mmr billet guides and tensioners Is it worth the upgrade for the money. 2005 f-150 fx4 5.4 3v
انا لا اثق في محلول التبريد الاصفر من فورد حيث انه افسد علي عدد ثلاث مضخات في سيارات فورد مختلفة بعد ان تم صبه في تلك المبردات انصح بالمحلول البرتقالي من فورد او البرتقالي من اي سي ديلكو
Why do we need the updated T connector if we still need to replace the o-ring in the upper hose? Isnt the real problem just the flattened o-rings? You didnt list the orange/red o-ring on the heater hose metal fitting Luckly mine was still good!
I've got a leak after intake changed in warranty..They say it's not leaking..But degas bottle was empty.Takes awhile small leak..I've put tracker die I see splatter but can't narrow it down
@@ELWOOD1776 I get it, Brian already talk about eco boost vs Coyote he said eco body is better engine. If you do t want to deal with turbos you will be dealing with coolant leaks 👍🏻 Best of luck
Be warned about that water outlet that the upper y pipe connects to. Replaced all my coolant lines radiator ect just to find out there is coolant all in the vally of my motor coming from the water outlet
@FordTechMakuloco just was hoping that you would mention something about it I have a 2014 and have 130 thousand on it and don't know if I should do the recall thing.
@@FordTechMakuloco do you think I should ask for a loaner car while they have my truck for the update? I think that I will since this is a recall ? Should I ask them to provide a loaner car ?
Ford water pumps have always been cheaply made, I won't say junk as they were usually good for three or four years. But years ago when I was prepared to do them, they were relatively easy to get at ! I have changed a few, but on my own vehicles, of the four I've had to change, three were Fords. My local scrapyard used to keep a stock of brand new Ford water pumps !
@@camyota well the water pump and alternator are a piece of cake on the 5.4. yeah, the plugs suck, that's for sure. I preemptively did a full timing job at 153k but I actually didn't need to. I use 5/30 and a pint of MMO at each 5k oil change. I did all the upgrades Brian recommended for my 2004. Runs like a swiss watch.
So ridiculous all that you need to take apart to replace a part that should never fail. Most brands have figured out how to make a water pump last the entire life of an engine so why not Ford. Also look at all those critical parts relying on plastic and O-rings. Absolute garbage from Ford. Why people pay the insane money for these garbage trucks is beyond me. I guess they like getting bent over on the regular at repair shops.
This 5.0 water pump is on the easy end of what is out there. Gm duramax puts one bolt partway under crank balanacer and that one thing requires significant disassembly. The list of worse is long.
Most car companies use plastics for their cooling systems now (post 2010), for some reason, the seal always goes bad on ford, whereas chevys, the plastic hoses crack. This is from my experience.
Show me a car company that doesn't use plastic and orings. The coyote is one of the easiest engines to work on. Yes the plastic on the cooling lines suck and they don't last st least it's super easy to swap out.
These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend:
2011-2013 Four Bolt Pulley (verify bolt count) Water Pump- amzn.to/4fguOat
2014+ Three Bolt Pulley (verify bolt count) Water Pump- amzn.to/46j3Pr1
Upper Radiator Hose O-Ring- amzn.to/3zX2EBl
Thermostat Housing to Water Pump Gasket- amzn.to/3WBhCVt
Updated "T" Connector- amzn.to/3YfIz3b
2011-2014 Degas Bottle Hose- amzn.to/4bXZWJd
Updated Yellow P-OAT Coolant Concentrate (x2)- amzn.to/4fistMy
UVIEW Coolant Vacuum Fill Tool- amzn.to/4bSNIBr
Torque Specs:
Water Pump 180 inch lbs plus 60 degrees
Water Pump Pulley Bolts 18ft lbs
Main Belt Tensioner Bolt 35ft lbs
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Did you replace the water pump bolts or reuse and what is your opinion on an aluminum tee fitting? Thanks
Absolutely
If you're going to replace your water pump, save yourself time and replace the heater hose assembly 'Y' pipe and the upper radiator hose while you're in there. I replaced my pump and two days later the Y pipe started leaking. Great video!
Always
I replaced mine around 80,000. + miles. No leaks but squeaking until warm, replaced belts, pulleys, tensioner with still with same noise. It ended up being the water pump. Actually pretty easy on the 2014.
Thank you Brian! My farm family has been a Ford family for nearly 100 years. One of my favorite channels.
Family must love it doggy style 😂🫣
A great DIY video. Anyone should be able to follow this and get their waterpump changed. Definitely one of the best auto mechanic channels on TH-cam. Thanks
Performed this repair on my 2012 FX4 about 18 months ago. Truck had around 144K miles when the pump failed. The impeller actually broke off the back of the pump. Took the opportunity to replace all the hoses, including the heater hoses, as they were original to the truck.
One tip I would recommend for the 11-14 owners attempting this repair. When you go to drain the radiator, get yourself about 18 inches of 1/4" vacuum hose and put the hose on the drain tube before opening the petcock. This will allow you to better direct the draining coolant into a pan.
Tons of help. Job went smoothly on my 16’. Water pump was definitely cooked. Only problem I ran into was breaking a constant tension clamp on the thermostat housing. Die grinder to the rescue. Best Ford repair channel on TH-cam!
When ever I did a job like that while working in the City Fleet, I usually ordered what I needed, plus, like you, I made sure to order the parts around the job, because as you know, time, mileage, and vibration will cause parts to leak or break. We step up that cause when we remove them if they're in the way. When people would ask why I'm changing other parts beside the original one I say, "I do the job once!" Eliminate comebacks!
Good one Brian! Thanks for the video.
Another awesome video thanks Brian and your son as well you guys are doing such a service to fellas that dont mind doing repairs themselves
Brian thank you for everything you do for community 👍🏻
Did my 2013 F150 4x4 at 165000Kms along with orings
I agree to much plastic being used by all manufacturers
Great video
Greetings from Vancouver Island,British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦
Great detailed video! I don’t even have a Coyote and it’s entertaining! Thanks Brian!
When I have a lot of fasteners to torque I will take a Whiteout marker and mark each fastener so I don't forget anything. Nice job!
Great video, changing mine this weekend. Mine made it to 35,878 miles. Transmission replaced at 29k. Been a great truck😢
I have a 2012 FX4 5.0 and my water pump developed a slow leak when it had about 120,000 miles a couple of years ago. Interestingly enough, I had purchased a Gates water pump from Rock Auto but, during my install, I found out one of the holes in the pump wasn’t allowing the bolt to thread. Thankfully, the Ford dealer wasn’t far away and went and got the Motorcraft. Install was easy after that. Everyone is free to do what they want but I’ve learned to go OEM for more important parts. I replaced all of the hoses, belts, and the new yellow coolant. Not an overly difficult job.
It’s not O.C.D. To an Experienced techs, like yourself It’s: A.T.D.! 👍
best ford tech on youtube.... hands down
AMEN BROTHER .....
Amazing how easy the new pump went in after watching the how hard the old one was to pull out. I wish the water pump on the 3.5 2008 Taurus was external and easy to replace like this F150. You did a video years ago on replacing it.
The new one was also a tight fit but was effectively pressed in by alternatively tightening the 4 bolts tightened evenly.
LOL... Figures, I was looking for this video about 2 weeks ago! Had to change mine on July 4th. Something easy became a pain in the arse.
Didn't realize there were 3 and 4 hole water pumps! Obviously, I installed the wrong one first. Thanx for the info though!
Found that out,had to order a water pump pulley,2014 with the 302.
Mine (2014 f150 xlt) went out @ 34,000 miles on the innerstate in the winter in Wisconsin. $500 later, I was on the road again. Also, sliding rear window defrost went out where the electric connection is made. Bypassed as I didn't want to spend $1,000 for window replacement and could use the side mirror defrost. Last year I had a continuous loud clicking under the dash.. had to replace the vent door actuator..$350..also paint started to peel off the trim around the window.. $500..
2 years ago had to replace the brake modulator$2,300..my truck just turned over 50,000 about a month ago.
I'll never buy a P.O.S. ford EVER again! 😕
Great video and helpful links to parts, thank you :)
Where was this video last year? I got her done, but this would have saved me some time and headaches.
That truck has some major rust !! Brian you need to relocate to Montana, rust free vehicles Marine!
or Idaho
had my '14 5.0L F150 water pump done... took 4 trips back to get it to stop leaking
I imagine they did not replace all the parts shown here.
@@FordTechMakuloco you are correct. They finally did it your way!! (The right way!!)
Nice job Bryan.
Brian, did I miss the link to the parts list that mentioned you would provide at about 27:40 in the video? I don't see any link....
Thanks for updating the parts, tool etc...... Much appreciated.
Another great vid. I've been kind of helping a friend with a lot of maintenance issues on his '13 F-150 w/5.0. His trans cooler line just busted and I found you with that video you did on those. It has 140K miles. What else do you recommend changing for preventative maint?
Im thinking about designing a replacement for those junk plastic connectors in the cooling system.
Do it
Don’t forget to tighten back the radiator drain.
Brian do you ever think you would do a super thorough video on doing a timing job on these motors like you did with a 5.4
yes I have.
I have a 14 f150 with 5.0 and I had a coolent leak in the hose that go’s to the heater coil and that damn hose was like 135.00 at the stealership!
Great video! Job well done😁👍
So many plastic nylon fluid connections that can barely be touched without creating a leak... If I had one of these trucks and was keeping it long term, I would look into eliminating as many as feasible.
Job well done young man we apricate you very much as well as your lucky customer's.
For the 15-16&17s, in your experience at what mileage have you noticed the original water pumps fail?
Closer to 200k
At the end i was hoping he'd start the engine to show no leaks and smooth operation.
Really missed the mark not doing so
I think I'll keep my 06 F-150 with the 4.6L 2V.
Wise decision.
Doing the WP in my 2013 f150 5.0 today. When I got the truck it has green coolant in it and still does. I replaced the O ring in the upper rad hose a few months ago and I added universal green antifreeze with Ford being ok to use all makes and models. The truck never ran hot or showed any signs of anything being wrong, good heat always ran at normal temps. And the water pump was replaced over a year ago but is leaking now so I bought a new gates HD pump and I went down the rabbit hole of coolant colors which is all over the place. So I'm dropping the pump so should I just use the universal green or yellow which I know most the coolant is fairly new from doing the O ring it lost a lot. So any suggestions.
do you have a link to the complete thermostat housing assembly? thanks for all you do!
Incredible video, do I need to replace my thermostat inside the thermostat housing, if I am just going to reuse the thermostat housing?
Does someone have the part number for the water heater coolant o ring. The red one he used? Just got done with this job, and my truck it leaking from that exact spot.
Was looking for the same thing
Thanks, great video. Did you have a link to the coolant vacuum tool?
All updated in the video description.
Seemed like a lot of torque for the water pump bolts? Wonder about what it comes out to in ft/lbs?
Past 200 I am sure, but this spec is quite common for Ford M8 bolts.
Consider getting one of those under hood creepers.
I hate them.
Is it just me or did Fisher Price make some of these components?
Have you ever had the bolt break in the front cover for the main alt/wp tensioner? We're you able to get it repaired without replacing the cover?
thank you
If I made little dents where the water pump sits in, do I use a silicon sealant?
Great work thx!
Got a '17 5.0L. What's the stock temp stamped on the T-stat? Was wanting to get everything ordered and didnt want to have to pull it just to look for the temp number and not having a running pickup.
There is only one option and you want the Ford thermostat anyway.
Your The Best !!!!
This is a job I'll be doing in the future on my 2016 F150 with 113,000 miles. Thanks to FordTechMakuloco, it looks perfect for a DIY garage mechanic like myself.
I’m doing this right now. Hardest time ever.
Mine is a 13 and was making a chirping noise, got it replaced just under the end of warranty.
I know you use engine coolant but I've used Super Lube O-Ring Silicone Grease for a long time and still use it on my 2012 F150 5L eng. I guess it's just preference. By the way, I replaced the "Y" pipe with one made of aluminum and it seems to work fine. The plastic one seemed not good enough.
I use silicone vacuum grease on all o-rings actually but say to use coolant as that is the approved method. Why would the metal T connector be any better? Wait till the quick connect end rots and leaks, have fun with that.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks for your response. I guess I'm old fashioned, I just like metal parts over plastic ones. I do see your point with the quick connect end. Thanks for all your videos. You present a lot of knowledge to all of us who watch. All the best to ya'.
The two rad hoses are 10 years old, do you recommand to replace them while I'm there?
We never do and they are never a problem.
Hi, I have a quick related cooling system question; I have an '08 Ranger 4.0. My radiator drain started leaking due to me opening and closing in frequently in working with the stupid thermostat housing. I figured the drain plug would be like the earlier Rangers or possibly my 2000 F350 but its not. I'm not sure the plug on my Ranger is supposed to come completely out but I got it out and replaced the O ring but couldn't get it back in.. I bought a NEW plug that is used in newer Ford's and my friend was successful in getting IT in but it doesn't seem to fit right and IT also leaks. I now have the radiator out because I was going to replace it. I was thinking of removing the NEW plug and putting the old one (With its NEW O ring back in. Any insight on this? Thank you!!
Do you have parts numbers for the gaskets needed. There isn’t a good description on Amazon for the ones linked
Nice job my friend bleced to you
Hi can you help I have 2017 Ford edge I am getting a intermittent does not do it all the time thump / bang from rear when pulling away and on occasions turning left or right no grinding or wining that I can here fluids have been changed all round it has been doing this before fluid done please have you got any ideas thanks. Eric
Great tutorial. Currently ordering parts to do the job before my system starts leaking. What was the part number for the red o-ring attached to the hose connected to the water pump? I didn't see it on the parts list.
Edit: Found it Part # AC3Z8527A
Hey Brian can you do a post 2017 5.0 spark plug install dealing with the fuel pump vid?
The 2017 5.0L does not have a fuel pump in the valve cover.
@@FordTechMakuloco I meant 2019 Like I have with the fuel pump in pas headcover
I have a 3.5 2013 low miles and my water pump just came apart. Many hours later I have it back together.
Anything you needed to do because you cleaned the throttle body?
Nope
Glad my 5.3 in my Tahoe is just shove the blue kid's pool under water pump. Take off lower hose and it drain in a rapid fashion and remove upper. Pop the belt and bolts and remove the leaker. Transfer pulley and replace pump, belt, hoses and fill it up. I honestly think it takes longer to type this out. 😂 🍻. The blue dollar store pool works great and when it craps out in a couple years you buy a new one for double the price since inflation isn't real.
I used a concrete mixing pan, just a very oversized oil drain pan.
@@kurtb3606mortar mixing tub - Home Deperstate or Lowe's
I am the VMO of my family's four vehicles (3 Fords / 1 Mazda 3 (Ford). Whenever I have reason to remove a throttle body, I always slap in a new gasket/o-ring. Am I being overly cautious in doing that or is it fine to get away reusing the original??
These new style gaskets can be reused with zero issues yes.
On a 2007 Explorer were is the Separator Asy - Fuel Vapour location at? Part No:6L2Z-9B328-AA
On the 5.4 3v what mileage would you say the thermostat needs to be replaced? I know you said you never had any water pump issues with those.
Pretty much never.
Love you videos man. Hope you answer this. What is your opinion on the mmr billet guides and tensioners Is it worth the upgrade for the money. 2005 f-150 fx4 5.4 3v
Absolutely not needed.
انا لا اثق في محلول التبريد الاصفر من فورد حيث انه افسد علي عدد ثلاث مضخات في سيارات فورد مختلفة بعد ان تم صبه في تلك المبردات انصح بالمحلول البرتقالي من فورد او البرتقالي من اي سي ديلكو
"gravy right?" Haven't heard that in a while.
Why do we need the updated T connector if we still need to replace the o-ring in the upper hose?
Isnt the real problem just the flattened o-rings?
You didnt list the orange/red o-ring on the heater hose metal fitting
Luckly mine was still good!
The o-ring on the T-connector is not available separately that is why we need a new T.
I've got a leak after intake changed in warranty..They say it's not leaking..But degas bottle was empty.Takes awhile small leak..I've put tracker die I see splatter but can't narrow it down
What’s the red gasket you replaced.?
Isn't brake clean destructive to o-rings? Maybe some silicone spray instead?
What o ring did I spray it on?
@@FordTechMakuloco No the surface. I don't know I guess if it evaporates quick..was just asking sorry.
@@Corey-dy2cq how dare you!!!! hahaha
I said to remove o-ring from pipe with a pick, then scotch brite, then brake clean on metal pipe then air, then new o-ring then lubricant.
@@FordTechMakuloco easy killer, it's just TH-cam.
What year Coyote is the best so far??
Best Coyote is 3.5 ecoboost 👍🏻
@@mikimiki195 I do not want to deal with turbochargers
11-17
@@ELWOOD1776 I get it, Brian already talk about eco boost vs Coyote he said eco body is better engine.
If you do t want to deal with turbos you will be dealing with coolant leaks 👍🏻
Best of luck
The ones without Plasma Arc cylinder liners....
Can you tell me....do the 2022's with the Coyote have this water pump issue ?
I imagine so, but probably in 5 or more years.
Be warned about that water outlet that the upper y pipe connects to. Replaced all my coolant lines radiator ect just to find out there is coolant all in the vally of my motor coming from the water outlet
Ive had to do this twice both times were bearings going out
Title of the video says 2011 to 2020. What's the difference in the 18 - 20 models?
Not much, biggest difference is the pump part number.
Alright 👍
awwwright
Nothing about recall notice for 2014 what's the deal should I book the appointment?
Why would I mention that in this video?
@FordTechMakuloco just was hoping that you would mention something about it I have a 2014 and have 130 thousand on it and don't know if I should do the recall thing.
Yup you should get the free software update but you will still need a molded lead frame eventually.
@@FordTechMakuloco do you think I should ask for a loaner car while they have my truck for the update? I think that I will since this is a recall ? Should I ask them to provide a loaner car ?
no
Protect this man at all cost, second only to President Donald J Trump. He is a national treasure to Ford men😅
10 - 4 , here you LOUD AND CLEAR....
I fully agree, he knows FORD MECHANICS AS GOOD IF NOT BETTER THEN THE DESIGN ENGENEERS.....
I can’t tell you how many times he’s gotten me through the bull shit 3v motor. So much experience
No anti seize on the water pump bolts?
nope
@@FordTechMakuloco why not?
Absolutely no need
Ford water pumps have always been cheaply made, I won't say junk as they were usually good for three or four years. But years ago when I was prepared to do them, they were relatively easy to get at ! I have changed a few, but on my own vehicles, of the four I've had to change, three were Fords. My local scrapyard used to keep a stock of brand new Ford water pumps !
Why would a scrapyard have new pumps?
@@rtz549 Why ask me ? they had a filing cabinet full of the things !
The water pumps on my 2009 Escape V6 and 2009 F-250 V10 are both original.
"nice and easy" *video is **1:07:50** long*
lol
Lot's of explaining, but otherwise nothing special about the job.
Tell me that impeller is not plastic
Yup never a problem as long as they are pressed on right.
Wow even me I repair Ford, jeep, others and Toyota
Part numbers please.
updated in video description
@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you. My next project on my 2015.
I never thought i would say this, but boy am i glad i have a 2004 F150 with a 5.4 V8. What the hell happened to Fords Engineering Dept 😢😢😢😢😢😢???
Still have my original WP on my 05 5.4!
What about the 3 valve is even remotely better than the coyote? Aside from all the plastic cooling system connections.
@@camyota well the water pump and alternator are a piece of cake on the 5.4. yeah, the plugs suck, that's for sure. I preemptively did a full timing job at 153k but I actually didn't need to. I use 5/30 and a pint of MMO at each 5k oil change. I did all the upgrades Brian recommended for my 2004. Runs like a swiss watch.
Great. Now days just plastic and rubber these days. 😢
Good grief, the 5.4 is 10x easier to change!
This truck was 15 years ago and have a lot of rust..what’s happened with the (ford engineering) man….😖😖😖😖😖
#FordTruckmakuloco it seems like Ford trucks are so bad that they’re your primary business these days.
Ford trucks are the primary thing Ford sells...
So ridiculous all that you need to take apart to replace a part that should never fail. Most brands have figured out how to make a water pump last the entire life of an engine so why not Ford. Also look at all those critical parts relying on plastic and O-rings. Absolute garbage from Ford. Why people pay the insane money for these garbage trucks is beyond me. I guess they like getting bent over on the regular at repair shops.
This 5.0 water pump is on the easy end of what is out there. Gm duramax puts one bolt partway under crank balanacer and that one thing requires significant disassembly. The list of worse is long.
Water pumps are a common failure on all makes and models cry harder why don’t you
Most car companies use plastics for their cooling systems now (post 2010), for some reason, the seal always goes bad on ford, whereas chevys, the plastic hoses crack. This is from my experience.
Show me a car company that doesn't use plastic and orings. The coyote is one of the easiest engines to work on. Yes the plastic on the cooling lines suck and they don't last st least it's super easy to swap out.
I think I’ve replaced a W/P on pretty much every vehicle I’ve owned, regardless of brand
Ford parts are generic.
I bet you hate working on these things cause you hardly ever see him. I bet you love working on them eco-boost keeps your pocketbook full, huh?
Now try the Ford Explorer V6 WP 🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🤑🤢😂