Girl buys new car, learns in 3 days she was scammed. Here's what happened. Roadside Rescue
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- ↓One of my longest customers got a new car. (her old Plymouth wasn't reliable) She didn't get a PPI and 3 days later it has a serious issue. So much that she's going to junk the car! We try and help her out! Turns out that the old car was more reliable than this!
𝐕𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐨 𝐟𝐢𝐱𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐢𝐭! • Girl buys new car. Fin...
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roadside rescue, automotive technician, mobile mechanic, roadside mechanic
If a mechanic shows up to fix your car in crocs just know he’s one hell of a mechanic
haha
lmao when u pulled out a nut driver i was like bruh xD
Crocks? How about one in sandals? All I wear is sandals and not only do I work on cars for friends, I also do apartment maintenance. Lol
You make a lot more money too. I was making 60 an hour doing it. I was bringing in about 500 bucks a day. Average.
Lmfao
1) drain and vacuum refill to eliminate any air pockets. 2) On startup, check hose temperatures to see if thermostat is opening. then proceed as advised in the comments.
My car was getting hot we switched the water pump, thermostat, hoses, radiator and ac condenser turns out it was the high speed fan relay $20 bucks go figure lol
So you're saying the fans weren't running?
You're a certified parts changer.
Radiator fans have different speeds and sometimes the module burns up and only work on let’s say low fan speed. So initially you can see the fan working but as the car warms up and requires a faster speed it can be bad and cause the car to overheat.
The good news is, you have an all new cooling system!!!!
At least you don’t have to worry about the other parts in years
I had a 2010 Altima Coupe 3.5L and had a small headgasket leak. It is fairly rare because the VQ35 engine is nice. Luckily, it was covered under warranty.
"Girl buys new car, learns in 3 days she was scammed."
Dude sees a video titled "Girl buys new car, learns in 3 days she was scammed." and learns that he was the one actually scammed by a CLICKBAIT title.
🎯
I have rarely ever seen a belt fail without something else being bad. I took off a belt from an E150 where you could see daylight between all the ribs for 4 inches. Had to pry the tensioner back to remove but it didn't fail.
6:00 you can actually re-use that fluid for quite a while... If you have a car that turns it yellow, take the tool off of the rad/exp tank, hold it up in the air, and pump the bulb a bunch of times. It will draw fresh (atmospheric) air through it and will turn back to blue, and ready to go again for next time. That stuff is kinda expensive (well, at least I know it was when I used to buy it all of the time!)
If you accidently suck up coolant, then it's kinda toast though... ;D
Well done bro i always tell people u can never guarantee any car even one straight off the forecourt. 👍
I bought my 2009 honda civic for $6000 and learned on the first day that I was scammed, I didn't get the winter tires I was promised, I was told the ac worked and it didn't, the park brake fell off the day I bought it and 3 wheel bearings went the same week.
Thermostat and possible water pump. Does it have a coolant bleeder valve? The coolant system might need to be burped.
Hopefully she got a mechanical warranty on the car. Most used car dealerships give at least a 30 day warranty. Plus, some states have "lemon laws" where a buyer can get their money back within a time frame from purchase. NOT saying she should go this route but, it's a possible way out of this bad deal she got on this car.
The first problem is the car is a Nissan. Scotty hates these cars as well. l would take the thing back and get her money back, Buy a Camry next time. lt's just not worth bothering with dodgy cars.
once an older car gets to this state of running hot. you need to replace the entire cooling system.
Take out thermostat, turn on engine, check to see if there's circulation and go from there. And did fans come on when engine was approaching hot.
If it isn't the cap like everyone is pointing out. Take the thermostat out and visually inspect it and then toss it in boiling water to see if it opens.
I appreciate you amd others that put out helpful videos.
I have a question. Say you are a mobile mechanic. You estimate a repair . You spent hours taking apart while to find out the issue is something in addition to original estimate and will cost way more. At that point the owner decides not to do any repairs. Do you still get paid for labor of taking apart and assembling the vehicle?
An emgine should not get hot if it has plenty of coolant but has a blown head gasket. So if its not loosing coolant, it really can only be thermostat, radiator/ cap, or water pump.
Or the relay mod isn't turning on the high speed cycles.
Waterpump test, Let the engine get warm, turn on the blowerheater, and set it to full HOT, if the air feels hot and stays hot then u have enough circulation, if the air from the vents slowly gets cooler (like outside temp) then u have an bad waterpump that is not circulating.
And check if the radiator cap is working, or just replace it to be sure.
Im a roadside technician in the Netherlands, we help stranded customers get on their way again.
Keep up the good work man!
Great heater coolant circulation tip. People overlook the $10 radiator cap. After many years, the cap get calcified and stops functioning of expansion and contraction of coolant.
@@gmailcgs Your right gotta use 50/50 or distilled water, but decent caps are way more then 10 bucks...lol i have went through many caps on GMs
@@mrbassman1972 I have a 2004 jeep liberty with a crack in the top of the radiator where it's plastic I just changed the cap when I bought it which was old and missing the rubber seal but I didn't add enough coolant and added some water so I was thinking that's why the radiator blew out it's a hairline crack where the plastic seams together at the top but I'm hoping it's not a bad water pump or blown head gasket new radiator should be here Sat so fingers crossed 🤞 that's all it is and I can add new coolant and be good
@@mrbassman1972 50/50 is a rip-off I've always just used a single jug of full concentrated anti freeze and topped off the rest of the way with water on my vehicles never had an issue. Why spend more $ buying something pre diluted when I have water at home
@@Valverde713 probably depends where you live. i wouldnt risk messing up the dilution and chemical properties where the temperature ranges from -50 in the winter to +40 in the summer where i live
You're a good dude man, Its nice to see people like you genuinely concerned about your customers.
I agree he really seems to care I would have checked the oil most likely would have been milky if it was a head gasket
This guy seems too nice and honest to be a mechanic. Hope people like this change the tide of what we're used to.
Scotty Kilmer would have recommended a 94 Celica - bullet proof.
Or a Lexus. Everything else is an "endless money pit'.
Nissans are rolling piles of junk!😄---Scotty Kilmer.
@J D he talks absolute nonsense anyone in the trade knows hes a joke
Scotty#1
@@maybenot6075
You’re apparently the JOKE😂
Scotty has worked on cars as a kid since his father worked a gas station! Scotty without a doubt, has infinitely much more mechanical knowledge than YOU, think you “supposedly have” 😂😂
Just stfu dude!
Working on cars and documenting the entire experience and editing all of the videos all while balancing out a business seems insanely difficult, especially as a former tech. I like every video I watch from this channel based on that principal alone
same and he goes to school and has a family jesus christ this guy is a beast
Too kind. Both of y’all! Thanks so much for the support!
I love you Ernest fr bro
Best post and Best compliment EVER......liked this message, Mark R
Are you certified
#SaveTheManuals
Not many mechanics would do this but you have earned my respect. Big props to you.
Save the manuals!!
I miss driving a manual
Haha, I saw the manual and immediately thought, damn a mechanic with a manual? That’s rare!
I just went thru this with my daughter's car! She bought an Infiniti G35X from an acquaintance of mine. He said it had a radiator hose leak and needed a couple of tires. Turned out it needed a head gasket, transmission rebuild, thermostat, power steering leaked, and it threw 32 codes....she got half her money back by selling it to a junk car buyer. Never buy without taking it to a trusted mechanic first!!
a code reader does wonders in this situation. 100 bucks gets you a good one
Infiniti is junk
Yea i cringe thinking back at how nonchalant i used to be about getting used vehicles. Now days, i will go over everything, everything, under the hood and under the car. Look at it all n test it all. Yep if u dont know how, get someone who does, its a big purchase that you dont want to get wrong.
@@0ptimalback in the day pre electrical/electronic everything the risk was lower as everything was mechanical, cheap(er) and way easier to replace.
Now a days everything is fancy and expensive so the risk for.used or no warranty is so high.
@@user-sl4ul4nc3t Even then, you’re at the mercy of the laws and regulations, and what the STEALERships can do behind your back….
Where she was scammed????? Lol
I've ran into similar situations with customers of mine and I would definitely come out of my pocket to try a thermostat before they junk it. I go the extra mile for loyal customers even when they are broke and I admire that you would do the same. Please give us an update 🙏
I said that immediately
Why does it have to come out your pocket? There's simple, systematic ways to test a thermostat - both mechanical or electronically conttolled.
@@HristovRumen some people don't have the knowledge or skills Playa u may be 1
Thermostat first at least.
@@KOz1caa also could have air in system sometimes it evaporates people fill then dont burp
It looks like she was smart enough to turn it off before it did the head. This is probably one of the few overheats that can be saved. I hope she doesn't give up until you check it further. I'd tell her to sell it either way. Nissans aren't what they used to be
I have an 08 3.5 altima and I haven't had any issues besides like a wheel bearing and a ball joint. The VQ35DE is the same design since 2000 when it was introduced so its not like they're known to not work. Actually you still see this year of Nissan on the road all of the time so i'd disagree. I believe she just got a car from someone that didn't take proper care of it.
@@Khaynizzle7 exactly, a well maintained well taken care of car will last 200k plus, people don’t follow the service intervals and then complain when something as small as a spark plug stops working
@@Zachery_ depends what your definition of a “car” includes. My guess is on average most factory Nissan automatic transmissions won’t last to 200k miles.
@@Zachery_ Wait, spark plugs can stop working?
@Romo Shakra scottie kilmer doesnt know his ass from his head. Vq35de engines are one if the best v6s ever built. Yes nissan did get a little worse over the years but they are making a comeback. The VQ35DE will last over 400 k miles with reg maintenance.
I would start with the thermostat, and use an infrared temp gun on the block and the exiting radiator hose. if fans are running and 20* difference on the hose, probably a bad thermostat.
Absolutely
Journeyman Mechanic 36 years ( last 5 actually Managed fleet of 3000 semi's across North America:
During my schooling with Caterpillar we were taught how to determine 99% of overheat problems with a heat gun. Saves a lot of time.
She made the mistake of buying a Nissan
For sure. Nissan is junk
lol ford cousin , I have a1995 Nissan pick up D21
All cars are shit, pick your flavor! 🤣🤣🤣
@@davyjones922 facts each one got their issues
We have had 3 Nissans and they all were good 200,000+ on the prvious 2 100,000 + on this Pathfinder.... Of course I do all the maintenance on them....
your testing suggests a stuck closed thermostat. Another good tool to have is a laser thermometer to compare temperatures on the top and bottom hoses, as well as the radiator itself
Or the water pump impeller could dislocate from the shaft causing no circulation. Plastic impellers are known to fail that way.
@@TheAndre8900 Yes if it wasn’t a head gasket the thermostat is ALOT easier on those VQs then the water pump you would probably have to remove that engine mount
@@TheAndre8900 Or disintegrate.
Yeh especially since that car may have been sitting for months before she bought it giving the thermostat time to "stick" in place from lack of use.
Had a thermostat stick closed in my 57 Chevy and made it blow a hole in my nice old radiator. Luckily it was 1973 and they weren't so hard to get in fact I already had another.
Only time I had one do that but have had plenty that wouldn't close.
One time put a brand new one in a pot of hot water to test it and it opened up and broke right there in the pot.
Ernest, you need to start super simple. Start with the radiator cap. If the cap is bleeding off pressure, it will lower the boiling point of the coolant. Bang, you're overheating! Had several cars in the shop this last month running hot. Three of them were simply bad radiator caps. Your pressure tester should be bale to test the cap as well.
I just went through this with my 2005 Honda Accord. The cap blew the spring out inside and was basically bleeding the pressure into the reservoir and that blew up aswell after it got too hot. Crazy the amount of damage a simple $10 part can do if you dont catch it in time and drive on that overheating motor for awhile
Had F-150 that had a bad overflow cap. $6 later, problem was solved.
HAd this happen with a brand new stant cap on a mustang. Replaced with a motorcraft and problem fixed
Exactly. An easy diag is when the vehicle seems to be “overheating,” but isn’t up to fans on temp yet using a scanner.
Cap every time.
Agreed. All I do is diagnose issues and have my techs repair. Always start simple. Test coolant with hydrometer. Okay good. Test cap pressure. Okay good. Pressure test. Okay good. Block test. Okay good. Scan tool, actuate low and high speed fan. Okay good. And go on and on. Start with the easiest things my man.
I.e. had a fuel pump job. Customer got a quoted and wanted a 2nd opinion. First step was, hearing pump on and seen gauge was full. 2nd step depress check valve on fuel rail. No fuel or pressure. 3rd step hit fuel tank. 4th step add fuel issue solved 😂😂. It’s basic things that would have cost that customer 580 dollars but instead 15 in fuel and 40 for service call/diag fee (lived 5min away).
The video hashtags look like the GTA San Andreas font lmao
Haha
If you suspect a water pump is not pumping enough or at all turn on the heater. If the heater blows hot air that means the water pump is doing it's job and circulating water all the way up to the heater core. I have seen impellers shear right off the shaft and not cause a leak or loose pulley.
I actually enjoy this voice over. I think you should test it out. Seems like it'll make it easier for you to record bc you wouldnt have to be explaining everything on the spot while holding the camera.
you should do more of this stories to help people avoid getting scammed.
Its really sad that you have to automatically wonder if they are lying to you about the problem.
I had that same Altima with a 6 speed manual and the exact thing happened to me. It turned out to be the thermostat and coolant temp sensor
Usually for fluid circulation issues, the easiest and cheapest first step, without unloading the parts cannon, is recommending a thermostat replacement. A good way to figure that out or attempt a diagnosis on it is to measure temperature differences from the inlet and outlet coolant hoses or to actually delete the thermostat and reinstall the housing to see how it behaves (unless it’s a thermostat/housing assembly). But I’ve had so many over heating vehicles with no coolant leaks and no MILs have it be a thermostat stuck closed. Sometimes it just won’t throw a light for it. Other times you’re lucky and it tells you through the scan tool. But a cheap, and quick first step is always the thermostat and a radiator cap. Saves the customer money on expensive repairs if that ends up being the issue
An infrared thermometer is made for this ...see if upper and lower hoses same temp or one cold
some cars you have to pull the engine to get to the thermostat, i think the country starts with a G
@@raydemos1181Europea…. Oh God.
You could, either use an infrared thermometer or your finger. Aim the gun or touch one side of the radiator and then the other. If there is a noticable difference in temp it's most likely a clogged radiator. If not, you've narrowed it down to a flow problem. Which leaves the thermostat or water pump.
Coolant temp sensors are a common failure on these. Misreading temperature, so the PCM doesn't command the fans on until it is too hot.
With so many electronics. You'd think we just build em 100% electric 🤡
That doesnt explain the lack of coolant flow tho
@@DevJB I worked on cars for 17 years professionally, I understand how engine cooling systems work. If the cooling fins on the Water pump are broken or corroded, it won't matter how much you Rev that engine
just look at the live data on a scan tool and see what the temp is when the fan kicks on, that will tell you if the sensor is bad
Something as simple as trapped air will definitely cause the engine to overheat. I bet they tried to do coolant change or thermostat replacement and didn’t do a good job getting the air out
Happened to my jeep recently when my coolant level was too low. Mine has a bolt on the thermostat elbow. I burped it and it’s been good since...knock on wood.
This engine airs itself out
happened to me with my civic i bought, changed all fluids and started overheating due to air trapped in the radiator, simply bled it and runs good as new lol
Did a drain and fill on a 2010 mazda 3 i bought used. After draining and putting in new coolant I bled it by running the engine with the radiator cap off for a while. As coolant got low I put in more until it eventually stopped getting low. 10k miles later it and no issues whatsoever.
Most Nissan have these issues of overheating
if it stayed blue then there were no combustion gases in the coolant...I'd go for the thermostat
No milk on the dip stick Do what I just did and I don't know squat about cars. Buy a thermostat gasket at parts store and just pull the thermostat. No more overheating. Worry about heat when it gets cold. About $3..
@@uzi1951: Probably will set code P0128; won't pass smog.
I believe so as well, thermostat probably is stuck closed
@@uzi1951 you do this and you will get poor gas mileage and if u run the car for very long it WILL over heat
@@chasewebber4316 I did a Google search, some people never have thermostats, in used cars.
this is great content, keep it going brotha!! loving watch people learn new things. Best way to live life! I subbed!
Hi Ernest. I would replace the thermostat and the radiator cap first. Can't wait for the follow up video to this saga. Have a blessed one.
Hopefully the end of the week or next week early.
Usually it's the thermostat I've come across about 80 thermostats installed backwards which usually results in a blown head gasket
at almost 20 years old I'd go straight for a new radiator
Hello Ernest. A little trick I learned when I was in automotive school is to take a laser temperature gun ($25+/- at harbor freight) and get a temp reading of the upper and lower radiator hoses after it's warmed up. Assuming there is no air in the system and it's been properly bled or "burped", They should be within 20 degrees of each other. If they are way different, i.e upper reads 200 and lower reads 130 than that usually indicates a thermostat issue. Could also be a water pump impeller totally corroded away and not pumping although the latter is pretty rare and usually only happens if they've been running hose water and not coolant. That coolant looks pretty clean so highly unlikely a corroded impeller....possibly a broken impeller which is also pretty rare. I believe some Nissan and infiniti V6 engines use an internal water pump driven off the timing chain. I'd start with a t-stat if temp readings are way off.
Yes, using a laser gun is a great time saver!
The laser gun idea is very good. Thanks for sharing.
@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 no problem. There's no telling how many bad thermostats over the years I've diagnosed using that method....works everytime. Just make sure you get your reading 4-6 inches down the hose from the engine. A little detail I forgot to add. Don't want to check it right where the hose comes out of the radiator. You will get a false reading if coolant is not flowing through the system.
Or clogged radiator.
@@Ed.01 indeed. If the coolant looks all rusty or cloudy I'll pull the thermostat out and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't, kinda narrows it down to the radiator or the pump.
Rule number 1: Don't buy a Altima.
Rule number 2: Read rule number 1...
Rule number 3: buy a Camry or Toyota Corolla
Ok Scotty Kilmer
I have a 13 altima and it has 200,000 on the original cvt because I change the cvt fluid every 30,000. Most people won't do that and that makes the cvt go out. It's not Nissan Fault it's Owner neglect
@@memewhisper you are exceptional to the rule but their are to many people who having issue with their Nissan vehicle. Think about it. I read on so many forum that the CVT go out after 15k of driving their new Nissan. people post videos how bad the tranny sound. How come people with Toyota or Honda do not have those problem as bad as Nissan owners. I used to have a 2011 Nissan Altima with no issues. So I know where you coming from. However, a lady hit my car from back and I was able to take that money and buy me a 2012 SE Camry. This car drive like a dream. I had this car for 3 yrs now with no issues. I paid cash for the car... My old Altima had no issue but i can tell that The tranny was going to give eventually but I continue to drive it. I change the fluids every 40k miles not Flush buy change.not going lie, I was so happy that the lady hit me from back. We were at a stop sign. I am a very handyman and I was taught to work on my car since I was a kid. Camry drive smooth and way better than Altima. With my Altima at time, I had a special grill infront bumper and added custom leather seats. Trust me I took care of the Altima but it's don't beat the Camry.
Ay quit cappin on my Altima it’s still running strong with 215k on the clock 😂😂
Hey Scotty u forgot to also include Honda civic
A quick circulation test is to see if the heater works. Also I would have checked the temps at the radiator inlet and outlet for a major difference. Should be within 20 degrees of each other. These cars are also notorious for trapped air bubbles. I think Nissan even has a tsb about how to release trapped air in the system by jacking the car up in the front and running it at 2000rpm with a fill funnel on. But I always use an air lift.
Your Mother is a fill funnel.
This ^... the official Nissan TSB for the VQ35DE recommends you remove the bleeder valve, fill the radiator until it overflows from the bleeder, then cap off the bleeder and radiator, start the car, hold it at 3500 rpm, then check the valve, if there is air, fill the radiator more, and repeat until the bleeder stays full, or until the car has consistent heat at idle. Cheers!
@@matthewpalm7484 Yeah, I've purchased some vehicles where someone replaced a cracked radiator or some reason broke into the cooling system and then they say it's overheating. Every time it had to do with air in the system.
you blurr out her face because i imagine she didnt want to be seen but just to let you know 3:05 we can clearly see her
Really sucks someone can scam someone especially a young lady definitely not cool
Craigslist flippers are brutal with cars! You should only buy if the title is listed in the name of the seller and their I.D. will prove it. In my state selling a car with an open title (Title not in your name) is a felony but they int pursue these scammer on CL.
We had a maxima and let me tell you that thing had some serious problems after 140k. As much as we tried fix it, I will say it always gave out on a new problem. Timing chain, water pump, power steering pump and rack etc.. just buy a new car(other than Nissan)in my opinion
dang i got the 07 maxima with 88k miles had it for 4 years now have had to change the starter, positive lead cable near battery, and power steering line.
cars fun tho and I've done the transmission drain and fill. been to Yosemite, sd, sf with the car even took it on some small offroad trails to get to hikes.
hopefully it lasts me its my first car since I was 18.
scotty kilmer says they start falling apart after 100k miles
@@TheChuyDewy Looks like you have 12,000 miles left, better get going...LOL...
@@TheChuyDewy transmission still holding up? Buddy, sell it now for the most money you can get before it does give you the headaches and you will be stuck with a big repair bill and no car.
Reliable cars are Toyota/Honda and Lexus
@@ShisuiHack well Lexus is pretty much the same company at Toyota as far as motors go. That is why you see Lexus retail value far better than bmw and Mercedes.
Definitely start with the thermostat. The water pump on these is a very involved job because I believe it runs off the timing chain. These cars are an absolute nightmare to work on under the hood. No room anywhere.
I replaced a head gasket on our old Maxium and it sucked.
Yep!! All interference monitors suck big bag o diks! !! I refuse to work in therm ! Just learned my lesson money wise they aren't worth it for mobile wrenching rates!
I wish to God there was more mechanics like you out there man you guys are awesome you got subscriber and a like just for that reason alone it's too bad there's places out there that are steady trying to rip people off man they're trying to make a living and people are trying to take their hard-earned money and they don't need to. God bless you guys!!
We are out there, most of the time it the owners of the shops who try to scam people, or people don't like to pay the price to get it done right.
I automatically replace my water pumps and thermostat every 100k with the timing belts fan belts per spec As standard maintenance. Nothing like getting stranded for a commonly wear item. All depends what your tolerance is. I hate been hung up for something avoidable
If anyones ever had the cooling system open for any reason or another and allowed air to get trapped. These are badddd about it. Typically youll see only overheat at idle when that happens. Trying to bleed these are quite hard too. Have to get the front end on quite the incline to get the air upto the rad. Putting a water pump in these is a bit painful since its driven by the timing chain. You could also try cleaning the tb to help raise the idle slightly. Bewarned tho that sometimes youll end up with too high of an idle and have to do a couple relearn procedures. As you saw these run pretty warm as it is. If the cooling system doesnt pressurize properly they will overheat aswell. That boiling will then also lead to issues with air now being in the system. Very finicky cars but when they run, they deffinately haul the mail!
This is TRUE info. When I had an Altima, I had a similar issue because of air in the system. Had to elevate the front of the car AND lift the coolant reservoir up higher than the engine, all while revving it to 3000 rpm to burp any air out.
I never had an overheating issue, but in winter the heat didn't work at all until it got over 2500rpm. After burping, it wasnt 100% better, but it was a significant improvement.
@@Conqueef-tadoor never had an overheating issue so far in the 4 years with the max with the same engine in the winter aswell
Hey man. Have you considered a pop up gazebos for longer jobs ?
Even just a hat and long sleeves when out in the sun.
Problem with those lightweight gazebos is they can be more of a hassle if there is a bit of wind, then you end up spending significant time trying to secure it instead of working. If it does get blown around with the wind, there is a chance of damage to the vehicle.
I work on my car outside here in Florida and things heat up really quick so try a cheap pop up canopy they work wonders to give some shade and even a little cover from those unexpected showers that seem to happen mid project.
Jack the front of the car up as high as you can get it and bleed it with a Spill Free Funnel.
Hold the RPMS at like 3/4k for 10/20 seconds while bleeding it, it often will be necessary to bleed it completely.
These engine coolant systems are notorious for being a pain to bleed.
I like this idea - helps release trapped air in the cooling system, costs you labor only. In the “old days” you could see the thermostat open as the water level would drop in the upper tank and flow would increase or be more visible. Check the oil dipstick for presence of antifreeze contaminated oil (creamy tan or frothy color) indicative of head gasket problems.
Looks like a stuck thermostat to me. After a pressure test on the cooling system showed stable, thermostat replacement. Typically an easy job for many vehicles. Some can be a PITA though. I am 57 years old and did my first engine and transmission swap at 15, a 72 chevy station wagon. Simple cars to work on back in those days. I used to be able to diagnose a problem by description of what the vehicle did and didn't do. Not bragging, just saying vehicles were much easier to figure out and fix back in the day.
Take that POJ back and raise hell
Those cars brake alot. Worked on to many
Remove the thermostats and see if it stops overheating?
Thermostats are designed to fail in the open position so the vehicle doesn't overheat.
@@righteousone1 yeah but sometimes that fail safe doesn't work. I've had it happen on a few vehicles and it remains shut
@@koriyuhboi436
You clearly don't know what you're talking about as both hoses were hot on the Nissan.
@@righteousone1 okay, but still Thermostats still fail and stay shut 🤣
@@curtisnoble.
I ain't never had a thermostat fail in the closed position. The real fail is your English.
You can tell a good mechanic when they drive a junky old car. They know if it breaks they will just fix it and they don't spend a lot of money on a car.
I saw “new car,” and wondered how a new car deal could be bad or a scam with warranties…then I realized you meant new to her. lol
Those model years of altima are the WORST and least reliable cars ever made. Somebody should've told her... poor thing.
How about feeling the upper hose to see how hot it gets. That was the old school method to give a hint about the thermostat. The engine sounded pretty good. It takes a long time for a water pump to fail. I might even take the upper hose off to see flow.
That was literally an ASE question I had not too long ago
Look in rad and see a flow. Dad always told me leave water level low one inch to watch flow
So what did you end up doing? I would do as you said (process of elimination) thermostat then water pump.
I haven’t done anything yet. I’ve got some open time coming up this week so I’m going to reach back out now that the video is up. :)
@@RoadsideRescue excited to see what happens
@@RoadsideRescue this may sound crazy but I would check the radiator. If it only has been overheating while still and the fans run, it could mean that there is a clog in one or a few of the radiator’s small tubes due to corrosion or random crap in the coolant.
This could also be caused my mixing different kinds of coolant. When you mix different kinds of coolant even small amounts, it will create a gel and hard rock-like deposits that are notorious for clogging radiators. I’ve seen it happen many times.
This would mean the radiators effective surface area is greatly reduced. When she’s moving, enough air can cool the coolant but when still the fans don’t move enough air through to keep it cool. Also check for a physical air blockage.
Before going for the radiator tho I would try a thermostat since it’s cheap then I would actually pull a coolant hose off to check flow. Or find another way other than looking down the radiator cap as that isn’t always the best.
Agree. Thermostat and then water pump.
Very generous of you to donate your labor! I can't make a Venmo (phone number issues) but if you have a cash app I'd be glad to donate to the cause
8018221477 I don’t expect anything! But if you do I would be so grateful!
She buys it then 3 days later discovers it over heats and then decides to junk it cause shes sick of dealing with it. Am I missing something.
If it did have a blown head gasket it may not be worth trying to fix. It is an aluminum alloy engine and there is a good probability the both thread and block are warped.
@charlesphilhower1452 a "new" used engine from a junkyard or copart would be $200 or $500... and then another $600 to $1000 in labor.
That looks to be about a 2010 to 2015..
That car was more than salvageable for less than $2k.
@@user-sl4ul4nc3t That depends on the vehicle and labor costs. Newer vehicles are much more complicated and salvage yards generally say that all the engines are low mileage when they sell them. Salvage yards are becoming a dying business because vehicles are becoming more complicated and the availability of cheap new parts made in China. For many salvage yards it is no longer profitable to keep vehicle for long periods a of time to strip them and many times the turn around time to the crusher is much quicker without stripping the vehicles for slow selling parts.
Would be good to leave written comments on screen a little longer, often have to pause. Good content though 👍🏻
easy way to check flow, the hoses will be cold till the thermostat opens. i start the engine and put my obd scan tool extension on it and hang out under the car with my hand on the hose and watch the engine heat, when the scan tool shows 180* or so, that hose should get hot as the thermo opens, if it dont then its a thermo and or water pump.
From working on these I would say water pump if you don’t see good coolant circulation. But I did notice you said it only overheated when parked which brings up the other common issue that I have ran to with these. When the car is driving the temp is fine until you come to a stop, which means Either the main radiator fan is not working at full power do to age or the relay is going out.
I had the same problem and it was the water pump it was corroded
First time here I subscribe. I seen a lot of great comment and ideas hope they worked good luck. By the way Utah looks great can really say the same here in the ne.
I agree with you and others, probably a faulty thermostat, water pump impeller issue or least likely would be a blocked radiator. The thermostat might be located where the lower hose connects to the engine, so the top hose will still get hot and coolant can boil up out of the engine to the radiator with this configuration, if the thermostat is stuck closed. Would want to check the temp of the bottom hose and comparing the two hoses should indicate if there's any flow going through the thermostat and coolant circulation around the engine etc👍
If it was a shady dealer, the coolant system could've been leaking when they bought it, and they used a leak stopper that is now clogging the system and slowing or stopping proper flow. Not sure how you test that theory or fix it, though.
Those stop leaks would leave a shiny crystal like particles inside the cooling system, kinda like pearls, but you can just tell if they used that stuff.
@@bencortez05 Normally turns the coolant somewhat brown doesn't it?
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists not really positive on the color, but for sure crystal like particles, brown coolant usually makes me lead towards rust in the system.
@@bencortez05 Maybe!
@@bencortez05 youre correct. Brown fluid is corrosion or oil. This is due to combustion gases coming through the water jackets in the head. Watch for bubbling in the coolant. This will mean you have combustion entering the system, or you have boiling coolant. Grab a chemical tester and test the fluid. You're either changing the fluid or changing the head gaskret.
Use a temp gun to check the temperature drop across the radiator.
If the drop is excessive, it mean the coolant is circulating too slowly through the system.
Water pump, chain driven and both thermostats, notoriously hard to bleed these cooling systems
Very hot in his state right now (I live in the same state). Averaging about 100 degrees or more. Bless this man 😂
They always circulate, they do have 2 and usually run pretty low temps. I would do both stats. The 4 cylinder water pump is belt driven but the v6 runs off the timing. Cheaper than an engine. If it was a head gasket the coolant would be noticeably low with the extend of overheating that has happened
Definitely do a thermostat and water pump. Had the same issue on my bmw, was cool until you drove more than 15min (and honestly if you only did city driving you probably could've done it all day long, it just hated accelerating and hills), then it'd overheat. Water pump was toast. Plus general rule is if you're gonna change a head gasket, change the thermostat and waterpump as well as they're probably the culprit, and if they're not, they're maintenance items anyways. But I've seen the end of the video and it's quite sad to send a vehicle like this with plenty of life in it to the junkyard, I say that even tho I despise cvt's.
Thermostat yes, waterpump only if you want to pull the engine and disasemble it. the waterpump is deep inside and not servicable unless you are changing the timing chain.
@@christiaanbrown4278
yeah sorry man I do not know these engines very well.
On my car it takes 15 minutes and just needs the serpentine belt removed, but I guess german cars are hard to work on, right ?
Still could be the culprit tho, so at least be careful and check for good flow and circulation before risking overheating an engine you freshly changed the headgasket on because the initial problem is still there.
@@imnota oh, I'm not saying that it couldn't be the problem. but if it is the girl is in a world of financial hurt to repair the engine. I don't like repairing this engine, it's too hard to get out to do any repairs on.
correct me if I'm mistaken... but doesn't a bad head gasket leak water into the oil?. You check the oil and if it comes out like a frothy milkshake ... car's done.
I'm actually a Nissan technician. Coolant temperature sensor could still be bad even though the A/C is turning the fans on ( Check to see if the CTS is reading some weird temperature like 40 degrees when it's at operating temperature ) or something blocking flow in the system like a partially stuck closed thermostat. 2007 ... wonder when the last time the coolant was replaced.
You have to love those manual transmission Rangers! Iʻll get another one someday, hopefully a 4X4 regular cab.
First thing i would check is both coolant hoses for temp. A thermal imager I use would aid me in seeing a clogged radiator or stuck thermostat. If there wasn't much temp difference I would lead towards the Water pump impeller braking off the spline.
Had an Altima with this problem a couple of months ago. Car passed both a pressure test and a compression test. #4 cylinder head gasket had a small crack that only showed up when the engine was at operating temp. Go figure.
Thats due to never changing the coolant during regular intervals. Every 100 k miles you should bleed the coolant and refresh.
@@chrishuber8930 The lady who owned it had full records that showed regular cooling system services. Car had just over 240k miles on the odo. She had gone to three other shops before she came to mine.
@@chrishuber8930 my head gasket will last for 20 million miles as long as I change the coolant every 100k?
@@clutchboi4038 obviously not 20 million lol but it should outlast the car. I have had a few vq35de engines and they all had 300 k or more on them without fail. I usually refresh my engines at 300 k miles.
If 4 cyl Altima is running hot, pull the spark plugs
If no residue is on one, and one doesn’t come out like it’s stuck, pressure test with spark plugs out and leave it for a little
You can also look at cylinders and see which ones have been washed
Check Radiator Hoses..
If both main hoses keep same temp or if one feels colder. If same temp circulation is Good.
If one hose is colder than the other, then your circulation is bad.
DIFFERENT TEMP ON HOSES:
#1 TURN ENGINE OFF.
#2 IF TOO HOT WAIT A FEW MINUTES.
**This step I do with & without radiator cap" **
#3 ONCE COOL I PRESS ON HOSE. NORMALLY YOU WILL HEAR OR FEEL THE SWOOSH OF THE WATER. I ALSO PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO ESTIMATE IF IT FEELS "ABOUT FULL OR LOW ON WATER/COOLANT".
You have to be patient if quite not understanding what you are looking for with this method.
Not everyone understands this concept, but has never failed on me when using it.
#4 By removing cap and pressing hose, "without spilling coolant" and quickly releasing the hose coolant should slowly be pushed into the system.
(if air gaps exist)
I find myself having to do this when I work on Nissan Hondas Toyotas...
Its takes a few minutes, but in deed never failed on me.
Good Luck...
**The tester works**
But taking temp on both hoses can be a faster diagnosis.
Sometimes you will even feel the pressure build up through the hoses, quickly telling you there's air gaps..
bro please edit your video better, half of it it just wasted talking & unnecessary editing. I would subscribe, but other peoples video are straight to the point 👉
Am I the only one who would have a giggle if my mechanic turned up wearing a prison orange jumpsuit and crocs?
LOL, got out on good time to help a lady out.....
@@tonyjordan1320 Its Ca what do you expect
Maybe thats why everyone is so happy to see me!
🤣
Strange that he is so hesitant to check out the thermostat. Checked the whole thing and all is good than it's very likely that the thermostat is stuck in a certain position. It happens quite often when a car changes owner that the thermostat goes. Different driving style, different temperatures. Why give up when you are almost there? Thermostat is like the easiest thing to shift and costs almost nothing. Is she going to junk this car for this? That would be insane. It's just a small problem. I am completely confused by this whole video. 🙄
Girls wouldn’t want to waste a lot of money fixing problems on a car they would rather junk it even if it was the smallest thing being a lug nut you wouldn’t believe it my neighbor asked me for help and I helped remove a lug nut that was stuck I had to hammer a socket in there just to get it out and she said she was going to junk the car first thing in the morning when the simple fix would only cost $20 down at autozone for new lug nuts
@@david14fan so true, my ex’s sunroof broke when we were dating. And let me tell you me and her have more chance of getting back together, than that sunroof ever getting fixed 😂
As someone who spent a few years delivering pizzas one thing I quickly learned is that the shortest distance is not always the quickest distance. A lot of the times, even if you have to travel further, a major street with a higher speed limit can get you to a spot a lot closer to the customer before you get to where you have to travel on smaller streets with lower speed limits. When you are delivering hot food time is more important than distance.
I deliver with Doordash and UEs and you are 100% correct. There are several times I'll pick a slightly longer drive that takes me out of town since it's usually 55mph with no stop signs vs driving in town that may be 1/2 the distance but you have a ton of lights. So many drivers only focus on distance. You get caught in traffic when people are leaving work and you'll think twice. lol
When i delivered pizza i knew the city and would take side streets and back alleys. 4 way stop signs are so much better then stop lights cause i can do california stops. At times my california stops were just driving through like no stop sign if nobody around
Those 3.5 liter Altimas are a pain to work on due to the lack of space. If that were a 2.5 it would be so much easier to do a water pump and thermostat
I bought my 2012 vw Passat from a used car lot (first mistake) with a 30 day mandatory warranty. The day I picked it up it had a check engine light for a knock sensor. Came back next day so they could fix it. Get it home and then another CEL for a map sensor code… call em up, bring it back, they fix it. Get it back AGAIN and get it home to find another CEL. So now I’m frustrated because these guys are fucking with me and it’s an hour drive 1 way to bring it to this place. I bring it back yet again and get a phone call saying they found bad compression on the #1 cylinder and oil was leaking up past the rings and saturating my intake and map sensor and the car needs a new motor. I’m lucky I caught it before my 30 days was up
when you are looking at a used car, always assume that you are going to have to spend a thousand dollars to fix all of the things the seller didnt want to fix themselves. brakes, a-arm bushings. stuff that doesnt show, but makes the car feel 'off' if you are the one who wore all that stuff out. if you dont do this, dont say you have been scammed. it is your fault.
from a plymouth to an altima, jeez that lady sure picks the crappiest cars lol
Yeah maybe just take the thermostat out to see if the overheating stops
The way you drop a ring of keys on the car's painted roof tells me I don't want this guy working on my car. You might not know, but dropping keys on paintwork can easily damage the paintwork.
"Blown head gasket" is a common "diagnostic" by dumb or unscrupulous mechanics. But, you need much more data before jumping to that conclusion. On guy at a shop in VA "diagnosed" that for my sister1967 Mustang 6 cyl overheating on a road trip with his butt sitting in a chair, based on his cousin's 1956 Chevy (turned out a pinhole leak in a heater hose). When the head gasket failed in my 1982 Dodge Aries 2.5L (common problem), I kept getting a brown mousse of oil floating at the top of the radiator, but kept refilling w/ straight water to make a 20 mile each way commute all summer like that until I junked the car. I've got the block-test kit from CalVan but it never fingered a bad head gasket even when I had one. When you pump up air, it heats as it compresses so pressure will drop a bit as it cools to ambient, thus wait 20 min before decided there is a leak. Our family's 1963 Valiant slant-six had a stuck thermostat on the highway, which a road-crew guy nearby diagnosed by not seeing coolant flow in the radiator, as you tried, removed the T-stat and we continued. But, in newer cars I've never noticed the coolant circulating. I've also never found a stuck T-stat but had one that broke apart to stay open and another that was too "sluggish". In both, the engine ran cold in winter. No reason to suspect a blown head gasket yet. I suggest flushing the radiator and running straight water w/ citric acid for a few days, then good flush and back to normal coolant. Best to remove the radiator to back-flush it upside down with a garden hose, but most as so cheap today (
Smart mechanic to have a manual transmission in his work vehicle
Smart mechanics drive cars they don't have to work on all the time, so they have the time to work on others' cars for pay! :-)
Great vids and to the nissan haters I have a 2000 maxima with 303,410 miles on it, still runs great but will burn a quart every 6 months or so. Now it's the Pennsylvania roads and salt in the winter that I worry about.
Cvt transmission in these are junk from the day it was built. You have a good non cvt in your Nissan.
I'm over in a blue state in the Northeast. The DOT has a road chemical that they use on winter roads that eats your brake lines and any other untreated metal. I get all my vehicles Fluid Filmed.
Keep up the good work.
Love the content.
Your a genuine nice guy 😃
Greetings from Scotland 🏴 Great Britain 🇬🇧
Thank you!