Waterpump test, Let the engine get warm, turn on the blowerheater, and set it to full HOT, if the air feels hot and stays hot then u have enough circulation, if the air from the vents slowly gets cooler (like outside temp) then u have an bad waterpump that is not circulating. And check if the radiator cap is working, or just replace it to be sure. Im a roadside technician in the Netherlands, we help stranded customers get on their way again. Keep up the good work man!
Great heater coolant circulation tip. People overlook the $10 radiator cap. After many years, the cap get calcified and stops functioning of expansion and contraction of coolant.
@@mrbassman1972 I have a 2004 jeep liberty with a crack in the top of the radiator where it's plastic I just changed the cap when I bought it which was old and missing the rubber seal but I didn't add enough coolant and added some water so I was thinking that's why the radiator blew out it's a hairline crack where the plastic seams together at the top but I'm hoping it's not a bad water pump or blown head gasket new radiator should be here Sat so fingers crossed 🤞 that's all it is and I can add new coolant and be good
@@mrbassman1972 50/50 is a rip-off I've always just used a single jug of full concentrated anti freeze and topped off the rest of the way with water on my vehicles never had an issue. Why spend more $ buying something pre diluted when I have water at home
@@Valverde713 probably depends where you live. i wouldnt risk messing up the dilution and chemical properties where the temperature ranges from -50 in the winter to +40 in the summer where i live
I just went thru this with my daughter's car! She bought an Infiniti G35X from an acquaintance of mine. He said it had a radiator hose leak and needed a couple of tires. Turned out it needed a head gasket, transmission rebuild, thermostat, power steering leaked, and it threw 32 codes....she got half her money back by selling it to a junk car buyer. Never buy without taking it to a trusted mechanic first!!
Yea i cringe thinking back at how nonchalant i used to be about getting used vehicles. Now days, i will go over everything, everything, under the hood and under the car. Look at it all n test it all. Yep if u dont know how, get someone who does, its a big purchase that you dont want to get wrong.
@@0ptimalback in the day pre electrical/electronic everything the risk was lower as everything was mechanical, cheap(er) and way easier to replace. Now a days everything is fancy and expensive so the risk for.used or no warranty is so high.
Working on cars and documenting the entire experience and editing all of the videos all while balancing out a business seems insanely difficult, especially as a former tech. I like every video I watch from this channel based on that principal alone
@@maybenot6075 You’re apparently the JOKE😂 Scotty has worked on cars as a kid since his father worked a gas station! Scotty without a doubt, has infinitely much more mechanical knowledge than YOU, think you “supposedly have” 😂😂 Just stfu dude!
I've ran into similar situations with customers of mine and I would definitely come out of my pocket to try a thermostat before they junk it. I go the extra mile for loyal customers even when they are broke and I admire that you would do the same. Please give us an update 🙏
If you suspect a water pump is not pumping enough or at all turn on the heater. If the heater blows hot air that means the water pump is doing it's job and circulating water all the way up to the heater core. I have seen impellers shear right off the shaft and not cause a leak or loose pulley.
1) drain and vacuum refill to eliminate any air pockets. 2) On startup, check hose temperatures to see if thermostat is opening. then proceed as advised in the comments.
Ernest, you need to start super simple. Start with the radiator cap. If the cap is bleeding off pressure, it will lower the boiling point of the coolant. Bang, you're overheating! Had several cars in the shop this last month running hot. Three of them were simply bad radiator caps. Your pressure tester should be bale to test the cap as well.
I just went through this with my 2005 Honda Accord. The cap blew the spring out inside and was basically bleeding the pressure into the reservoir and that blew up aswell after it got too hot. Crazy the amount of damage a simple $10 part can do if you dont catch it in time and drive on that overheating motor for awhile
Agreed. All I do is diagnose issues and have my techs repair. Always start simple. Test coolant with hydrometer. Okay good. Test cap pressure. Okay good. Pressure test. Okay good. Block test. Okay good. Scan tool, actuate low and high speed fan. Okay good. And go on and on. Start with the easiest things my man. I.e. had a fuel pump job. Customer got a quoted and wanted a 2nd opinion. First step was, hearing pump on and seen gauge was full. 2nd step depress check valve on fuel rail. No fuel or pressure. 3rd step hit fuel tank. 4th step add fuel issue solved 😂😂. It’s basic things that would have cost that customer 580 dollars but instead 15 in fuel and 40 for service call/diag fee (lived 5min away).
It looks like she was smart enough to turn it off before it did the head. This is probably one of the few overheats that can be saved. I hope she doesn't give up until you check it further. I'd tell her to sell it either way. Nissans aren't what they used to be
I have an 08 3.5 altima and I haven't had any issues besides like a wheel bearing and a ball joint. The VQ35DE is the same design since 2000 when it was introduced so its not like they're known to not work. Actually you still see this year of Nissan on the road all of the time so i'd disagree. I believe she just got a car from someone that didn't take proper care of it.
@@Khaynizzle7 exactly, a well maintained well taken care of car will last 200k plus, people don’t follow the service intervals and then complain when something as small as a spark plug stops working
@@Zachery_ depends what your definition of a “car” includes. My guess is on average most factory Nissan automatic transmissions won’t last to 200k miles.
@Romo Shakra scottie kilmer doesnt know his ass from his head. Vq35de engines are one if the best v6s ever built. Yes nissan did get a little worse over the years but they are making a comeback. The VQ35DE will last over 400 k miles with reg maintenance.
As someone who spent a few years delivering pizzas one thing I quickly learned is that the shortest distance is not always the quickest distance. A lot of the times, even if you have to travel further, a major street with a higher speed limit can get you to a spot a lot closer to the customer before you get to where you have to travel on smaller streets with lower speed limits. When you are delivering hot food time is more important than distance.
I deliver with Doordash and UEs and you are 100% correct. There are several times I'll pick a slightly longer drive that takes me out of town since it's usually 55mph with no stop signs vs driving in town that may be 1/2 the distance but you have a ton of lights. So many drivers only focus on distance. You get caught in traffic when people are leaving work and you'll think twice. lol
When i delivered pizza i knew the city and would take side streets and back alleys. 4 way stop signs are so much better then stop lights cause i can do california stops. At times my california stops were just driving through like no stop sign if nobody around
your testing suggests a stuck closed thermostat. Another good tool to have is a laser thermometer to compare temperatures on the top and bottom hoses, as well as the radiator itself
@@TheAndre8900 Yes if it wasn’t a head gasket the thermostat is ALOT easier on those VQs then the water pump you would probably have to remove that engine mount
Had a thermostat stick closed in my 57 Chevy and made it blow a hole in my nice old radiator. Luckily it was 1973 and they weren't so hard to get in fact I already had another. Only time I had one do that but have had plenty that wouldn't close. One time put a brand new one in a pot of hot water to test it and it opened up and broke right there in the pot.
correct me if I'm mistaken... but doesn't a bad head gasket leak water into the oil?. You check the oil and if it comes out like a frothy milkshake ... car's done.
My car was getting hot we switched the water pump, thermostat, hoses, radiator and ac condenser turns out it was the high speed fan relay $20 bucks go figure lol
Radiator fans have different speeds and sometimes the module burns up and only work on let’s say low fan speed. So initially you can see the fan working but as the car warms up and requires a faster speed it can be bad and cause the car to overheat.
I work on my car outside here in Florida and things heat up really quick so try a cheap pop up canopy they work wonders to give some shade and even a little cover from those unexpected showers that seem to happen mid project.
Hello Ernest. A little trick I learned when I was in automotive school is to take a laser temperature gun ($25+/- at harbor freight) and get a temp reading of the upper and lower radiator hoses after it's warmed up. Assuming there is no air in the system and it's been properly bled or "burped", They should be within 20 degrees of each other. If they are way different, i.e upper reads 200 and lower reads 130 than that usually indicates a thermostat issue. Could also be a water pump impeller totally corroded away and not pumping although the latter is pretty rare and usually only happens if they've been running hose water and not coolant. That coolant looks pretty clean so highly unlikely a corroded impeller....possibly a broken impeller which is also pretty rare. I believe some Nissan and infiniti V6 engines use an internal water pump driven off the timing chain. I'd start with a t-stat if temp readings are way off.
@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 no problem. There's no telling how many bad thermostats over the years I've diagnosed using that method....works everytime. Just make sure you get your reading 4-6 inches down the hose from the engine. A little detail I forgot to add. Don't want to check it right where the hose comes out of the radiator. You will get a false reading if coolant is not flowing through the system.
@@Ed.01 indeed. If the coolant looks all rusty or cloudy I'll pull the thermostat out and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't, kinda narrows it down to the radiator or the pump.
@Dev JB I worked on cars for 17 years professionally, I understand how engine cooling systems work. If the cooling fins on the Water pump are broken or corroded, it won't matter how much you Rev that engine
Usually for fluid circulation issues, the easiest and cheapest first step, without unloading the parts cannon, is recommending a thermostat replacement. A good way to figure that out or attempt a diagnosis on it is to measure temperature differences from the inlet and outlet coolant hoses or to actually delete the thermostat and reinstall the housing to see how it behaves (unless it’s a thermostat/housing assembly). But I’ve had so many over heating vehicles with no coolant leaks and no MILs have it be a thermostat stuck closed. Sometimes it just won’t throw a light for it. Other times you’re lucky and it tells you through the scan tool. But a cheap, and quick first step is always the thermostat and a radiator cap. Saves the customer money on expensive repairs if that ends up being the issue
Something as simple as trapped air will definitely cause the engine to overheat. I bet they tried to do coolant change or thermostat replacement and didn’t do a good job getting the air out
Happened to my jeep recently when my coolant level was too low. Mine has a bolt on the thermostat elbow. I burped it and it’s been good since...knock on wood.
happened to me with my civic i bought, changed all fluids and started overheating due to air trapped in the radiator, simply bled it and runs good as new lol
Did a drain and fill on a 2010 mazda 3 i bought used. After draining and putting in new coolant I bled it by running the engine with the radiator cap off for a while. As coolant got low I put in more until it eventually stopped getting low. 10k miles later it and no issues whatsoever.
You could, either use an infrared thermometer or your finger. Aim the gun or touch one side of the radiator and then the other. If there is a noticable difference in temp it's most likely a clogged radiator. If not, you've narrowed it down to a flow problem. Which leaves the thermostat or water pump.
I would start with the thermostat, and use an infrared temp gun on the block and the exiting radiator hose. if fans are running and 20* difference on the hose, probably a bad thermostat.
Journeyman Mechanic 36 years ( last 5 actually Managed fleet of 3000 semi's across North America: During my schooling with Caterpillar we were taught how to determine 99% of overheat problems with a heat gun. Saves a lot of time.
First thing i would check is both coolant hoses for temp. A thermal imager I use would aid me in seeing a clogged radiator or stuck thermostat. If there wasn't much temp difference I would lead towards the Water pump impeller braking off the spline.
No milk on the dip stick Do what I just did and I don't know squat about cars. Buy a thermostat gasket at parts store and just pull the thermostat. No more overheating. Worry about heat when it gets cold. About $3..
Looks like a stuck thermostat to me. After a pressure test on the cooling system showed stable, thermostat replacement. Typically an easy job for many vehicles. Some can be a PITA though. I am 57 years old and did my first engine and transmission swap at 15, a 72 chevy station wagon. Simple cars to work on back in those days. I used to be able to diagnose a problem by description of what the vehicle did and didn't do. Not bragging, just saying vehicles were much easier to figure out and fix back in the day.
Use a temp gun to check the temperature drop across the radiator. If the drop is excessive, it mean the coolant is circulating too slowly through the system.
I wish to God there was more mechanics like you out there man you guys are awesome you got subscriber and a like just for that reason alone it's too bad there's places out there that are steady trying to rip people off man they're trying to make a living and people are trying to take their hard-earned money and they don't need to. God bless you guys!!
I'm guessing the basics have been done? Check oil level, check transmission fluid level? Low levels on those can also cause overheating. Radiator fan is spinning I'm guessing? 😀 Could there be crap in the radiator preventing cooling from being effective? I'd think this would still pass a pressure check if so, but it would make cooling much less effective. (Maybe someone (shady dealer?) added one of those stop-leak kits?)
I actually enjoy this voice over. I think you should test it out. Seems like it'll make it easier for you to record bc you wouldnt have to be explaining everything on the spot while holding the camera.
Remove the thermostat,test it in a pot of heated water and whilst doing so,run the vehicle without it. You are a nice young man with a big heart. Thumbs up.
From working on these I would say water pump if you don’t see good coolant circulation. But I did notice you said it only overheated when parked which brings up the other common issue that I have ran to with these. When the car is driving the temp is fine until you come to a stop, which means Either the main radiator fan is not working at full power do to age or the relay is going out.
Those 3.5 liter Altimas are a pain to work on due to the lack of space. If that were a 2.5 it would be so much easier to do a water pump and thermostat
First time here I subscribe. I seen a lot of great comment and ideas hope they worked good luck. By the way Utah looks great can really say the same here in the ne.
Great vids and to the nissan haters I have a 2000 maxima with 303,410 miles on it, still runs great but will burn a quart every 6 months or so. Now it's the Pennsylvania roads and salt in the winter that I worry about.
I'm over in a blue state in the Northeast. The DOT has a road chemical that they use on winter roads that eats your brake lines and any other untreated metal. I get all my vehicles Fluid Filmed.
We had a maxima and let me tell you that thing had some serious problems after 140k. As much as we tried fix it, I will say it always gave out on a new problem. Timing chain, water pump, power steering pump and rack etc.. just buy a new car(other than Nissan)in my opinion
dang i got the 07 maxima with 88k miles had it for 4 years now have had to change the starter, positive lead cable near battery, and power steering line. cars fun tho and I've done the transmission drain and fill. been to Yosemite, sd, sf with the car even took it on some small offroad trails to get to hikes. hopefully it lasts me its my first car since I was 18. scotty kilmer says they start falling apart after 100k miles
@@TheChuyDewy transmission still holding up? Buddy, sell it now for the most money you can get before it does give you the headaches and you will be stuck with a big repair bill and no car.
@@ShisuiHack well Lexus is pretty much the same company at Toyota as far as motors go. That is why you see Lexus retail value far better than bmw and Mercedes.
Wow firstly what a great guy and mechanic.. second what a shame for the new owner. Seems a tricky problem.. every car I have owned and had issues.. the mechanic knows what's wrong within 5minute looking at it. Great video
A quick circulation test is to see if the heater works. Also I would have checked the temps at the radiator inlet and outlet for a major difference. Should be within 20 degrees of each other. These cars are also notorious for trapped air bubbles. I think Nissan even has a tsb about how to release trapped air in the system by jacking the car up in the front and running it at 2000rpm with a fill funnel on. But I always use an air lift.
This ^... the official Nissan TSB for the VQ35DE recommends you remove the bleeder valve, fill the radiator until it overflows from the bleeder, then cap off the bleeder and radiator, start the car, hold it at 3500 rpm, then check the valve, if there is air, fill the radiator more, and repeat until the bleeder stays full, or until the car has consistent heat at idle. Cheers!
@@matthewpalm7484 Yeah, I've purchased some vehicles where someone replaced a cracked radiator or some reason broke into the cooling system and then they say it's overheating. Every time it had to do with air in the system.
I'm actually a Nissan technician. Coolant temperature sensor could still be bad even though the A/C is turning the fans on ( Check to see if the CTS is reading some weird temperature like 40 degrees when it's at operating temperature ) or something blocking flow in the system like a partially stuck closed thermostat. 2007 ... wonder when the last time the coolant was replaced.
How about feeling the upper hose to see how hot it gets. That was the old school method to give a hint about the thermostat. The engine sounded pretty good. It takes a long time for a water pump to fail. I might even take the upper hose off to see flow.
I said this in a reply but I really think you need to see it…. Definitely check the radiator. If it’s only overheating when still and the fans are running it could mean there is either an air blockage or a water blockage reducing the effective size of the radiator. If the car is moving there is enough air to dissipate the heat but when it’s stopped, the fans can’t keep up. Water blockages of radiators often occurs if someone mixes two different types of coolant. It then creates some gel and/or hard rock-like deposits that easily get clogged in the radiator tubes. Look at the color of the coolant and see if it is the same color as the OEM coolant. Even if it is, it likely could have been topped off with the wrong coolant creating just enough deposits to form in the radiator. If it is not OEM color, then lingering coolant from an improper flush mixed with the new non-OEM coolant created gel and clogged the rad. Also some people said radiator cap which is also probable.
You can tell a good mechanic when they drive a junky old car. They know if it breaks they will just fix it and they don't spend a lot of money on a car.
Most people now don't know anything about cars other than were the key goes in the ignition and are easily ripped off so any help is greatly appreciated especially ones who are new to car ownership keep up the good work be careful and stay safe my friend God love ya
Definitely start with the thermostat. The water pump on these is a very involved job because I believe it runs off the timing chain. These cars are an absolute nightmare to work on under the hood. No room anywhere.
Yep!! All interference monitors suck big bag o diks! !! I refuse to work in therm ! Just learned my lesson money wise they aren't worth it for mobile wrenching rates!
If it was a shady dealer, the coolant system could've been leaking when they bought it, and they used a leak stopper that is now clogging the system and slowing or stopping proper flow. Not sure how you test that theory or fix it, though.
Those stop leaks would leave a shiny crystal like particles inside the cooling system, kinda like pearls, but you can just tell if they used that stuff.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists not really positive on the color, but for sure crystal like particles, brown coolant usually makes me lead towards rust in the system.
@@bencortez05 youre correct. Brown fluid is corrosion or oil. This is due to combustion gases coming through the water jackets in the head. Watch for bubbling in the coolant. This will mean you have combustion entering the system, or you have boiling coolant. Grab a chemical tester and test the fluid. You're either changing the fluid or changing the head gaskret.
I automatically replace my water pumps and thermostat every 100k with the timing belts fan belts per spec As standard maintenance. Nothing like getting stranded for a commonly wear item. All depends what your tolerance is. I hate been hung up for something avoidable
Nissans will run forever if you take care of them. I have a 2011 Nissan Altima Coupe with 278,000 miles on it. She runs amazing. I do all my own work on it. I change oil 3 times a year. Change transmission fluid every two years. Change spark plugs once a year, spark plug wires évery two years. Change front brakes once a year, rear brakes every two years. Disc rotors change every two years. Replaced radiator and condensor every five years. As far as this video goes, I had the same problem with my Nissan Altima coupe in the beginning that you have in this video and I ended up putting a trans cooler in and it fixed the problem. Nissan Dealership said all is fine but wouldn't drive it for more than 5 minutes to allow the whiny grindy sound to start happening. I would have the occasional overheating on a hot Florida day and after the car would run for about 20 minutes, I would hear like a whiney/grindy sound almost like a supercharger makes when accelerating. So I did research and installing a trans cooler in front of the radiator did the trick. I paid like 50 bucks for the trans cooler and installed it myself.
@@AStanton1966 I ordered everything off of Amazon. The auto parts stores are 100% loyal to certain brand names that I find to be poor to mediocre quality.
easy way to check flow, the hoses will be cold till the thermostat opens. i start the engine and put my obd scan tool extension on it and hang out under the car with my hand on the hose and watch the engine heat, when the scan tool shows 180* or so, that hose should get hot as the thermo opens, if it dont then its a thermo and or water pump.
I agree with you and others, probably a faulty thermostat, water pump impeller issue or least likely would be a blocked radiator. The thermostat might be located where the lower hose connects to the engine, so the top hose will still get hot and coolant can boil up out of the engine to the radiator with this configuration, if the thermostat is stuck closed. Would want to check the temp of the bottom hose and comparing the two hoses should indicate if there's any flow going through the thermostat and coolant circulation around the engine etc👍
when you are looking at a used car, always assume that you are going to have to spend a thousand dollars to fix all of the things the seller didnt want to fix themselves. brakes, a-arm bushings. stuff that doesnt show, but makes the car feel 'off' if you are the one who wore all that stuff out. if you dont do this, dont say you have been scammed. it is your fault.
Jack the front of the car up as high as you can get it and bleed it with a Spill Free Funnel. Hold the RPMS at like 3/4k for 10/20 seconds while bleeding it, it often will be necessary to bleed it completely. These engine coolant systems are notorious for being a pain to bleed.
I like this idea - helps release trapped air in the cooling system, costs you labor only. In the “old days” you could see the thermostat open as the water level would drop in the upper tank and flow would increase or be more visible. Check the oil dipstick for presence of antifreeze contaminated oil (creamy tan or frothy color) indicative of head gasket problems.
In the UK, any car older than 3 years must have an annual MOT inspection, which costs about £35/ $50. If I’m ever looking to buy a used car, I ask the vendor if they’re happy for me to book the vehicle for a test. Cheapest 5* road safety inspection you’ll ever pay for.
I dont know about the UK but in US i dont think anyone wants you taking their car anywhere let alone drive it away. If you pay me $300 for my time to accompany you to a mechanic then maybe ...else too many theives. They may carjack you at their "mechanics" place
You comment that the water (coolant) was boiling; however, coolant doesn't boil. If you're seeing boiling, either tap or filtered water was used in/with the cooling system instead of distilled water. I'd completely drain the cooling system and fill it with the proper coolant-to-distilled water ratio. Also, I believe you're spot on. Sounds like the thermostat was stuck closed.
Sorry..... but i have to chime in here and call bs regarding the boiling point...... it doesn't matter if you're using tap, filtered or distilled water, the boiling point is always 100°C..... Yes the ratio coolant to water could be off but the coolant can still boil if the waterpump doesn't work right because then you'd reach a lot more than 100°C and especially when the coolant system isn't under pressure because it is open....
@@320iSTWEdition Truly distilled water contains no minerals and/or impurities. Such impurities are what causes nucleation (bubbles produced once water reaches 212° at sea level). While it's true that distilled water 𝘸𝘪𝘭𝘭 boil away, it will *not* produce bubbles during the boiling process unless you disturb it after it's reached the boiling point - e.g. putting a metal or wooden spoon in the water. You can test this at home, but it's advisable to use a clean Pyrex or tempered glass container instead of metal. Once you disturb distilled water at boiling point, you will see bubbles since you've introduced a nucleation site via the spoon or other foreign object. The impurities are why you should never use tap water in your car's cooling system. *Always* use distilled water but only if your coolant isn't pre-diluted.
@@Carlos-ov1hg I've been using tapwater in all my cars cooling systems in a 50/50 mixture for over 20 years and NEVER had a boiling issue EXCEPT the cooling system wasn't sealed right because i had it open or the radiator housing was broken. Even driving in summer with high revs on the Autobahn and over 30°C outside temperature and having the A/C on full power, the cooling system never had any problems with tap water..... but you surely have an explanation for this too. I've got one..... there was a problem with the cooling system and it wasn't what kind of water was used (because it doesn't matter like i stated before)..... regarding this fault here he changed the thermostat and bled the system correctly because like in many BMW's this car doesn't wanna bleed right if the filler neck is sitting too low..... and that is his guess for the overheating issue while sitting because it never happened during driving..... IF it would have been an issue with the coolant, it would have had to happen ANYtime..... I commend you on your chemical knowledge, but it really isn't an issue with cars and the coolants used because they make sure that you can even use tapwater without any downsides for the cooling of the engine.
@@320iSTWEdition I never said you 𝘤𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥𝘯'𝘵 use tap water. I simply said you 𝘴𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥𝘯'𝘵 use tap water for the previously stated reason(s). By your logic, a motorist should continue texting whilst driving since they haven't had an accident, *yet*.
If you replace the water pump , you’ll end up doing a timing chain job ( probably never been done and due), this ends up being a costly time consuming job
You can buy another vehicle with the $ it costs to do that job on this rig. Could probably find two more vehicles if standards of visual appearance wasn't a factor. "But this looks nicer" Yeah, your gonna pay for those "looks" dearly!
@@markheatherly2915 would love to see that. I would guess if your super versed, a senior master with all tooling imaginable, you might kick this out in a full day if your a strait badass. Not sure if you know this 3.5 motor in mounted sideways, making the front cover a super tight fit. All accessories come off the front. It's a typical Nissan, aka pile of shit. Hard to work on, expensive parts. I'll stand by my comment, it would be better to move on and spend the $2k on something else. The cvt transmissions on these are garbage. You'd be in for another 3-4k WHEN it goes, then you still have a total pile, that you cant depend on. I've worked on these(not chain replacement) and there's no way to do pump, chain, guides and tensioner in that time frame. Impossible.
@@georgesrisomsak9650 I done more timing belts and chains than I can count and I do have a lot in my tools but it dont take a whole lot of tools to do a timing belt job on v6 honda for instance hydraulic tensioner, water pump, timing belts, cam seals,crank seal,drive belts,6 spark plugs, oil change and filter, air filter, all oem from service center 480 give or take few dollars and 250 in labor and I never advertised and drop off the night before I drain the oil and coolant overnight and you can pick up by noon the next day and this stuff was just a hobby my real job was working at honda for 26 years but I worked on all makes and all models foreign and domestic and never had a single car I couldnt fix no matter how many tried before I always figured it out. My point is this most people assume they cant do this or that but it's not that hard if you take the time to learn it the speed comes naturally if I can do it why cant anybody else and not knowing how hard the job is can allow shops to take advantage of you do you know how a shop says no to a job they dont want they overpriced it and if you dont know you pay it. And I love showing how to do anything car related hell I even took full color pics before and after to help people from being taken advantage of and I made more money most of the time than my full time job, so unless I've missed your point, it can be done I have done it and you could too you can do anything you set your mind to do and who cant use extra cash, if bet I cant I would be taken your cash too cuz I gamble lol I play the lotto too and I hit it too cant win at anything if you dont even try.
That Ranger you’re driving is my favorite year. 93-94. New body style, but they kept the dash from the old body style until 95. I always liked that style interior.
Had an Altima with this problem a couple of months ago. Car passed both a pressure test and a compression test. #4 cylinder head gasket had a small crack that only showed up when the engine was at operating temp. Go figure.
@@chrishuber8930 The lady who owned it had full records that showed regular cooling system services. Car had just over 240k miles on the odo. She had gone to three other shops before she came to mine.
@@clutchboi4038 obviously not 20 million lol but it should outlast the car. I have had a few vq35de engines and they all had 300 k or more on them without fail. I usually refresh my engines at 300 k miles.
If 4 cyl Altima is running hot, pull the spark plugs If no residue is on one, and one doesn’t come out like it’s stuck, pressure test with spark plugs out and leave it for a little You can also look at cylinders and see which ones have been washed
I bought a car in an auction. Carola. Sounds like a truck . So far replaced 4 tires. Battery needed changing. Never again. Appreciate your advice. I despise dealers taking advantage of women. Air-conditioning went out dealership wanted over 1000 dollars. Got the problem fixed , costing 55 dollars , free on added. Bought a new car , at least have some guarantee. I guess you know don't know anything about cars. Learned a lot from you . Thanks The comments are very helpful as well.
Strange that he is so hesitant to check out the thermostat. Checked the whole thing and all is good than it's very likely that the thermostat is stuck in a certain position. It happens quite often when a car changes owner that the thermostat goes. Different driving style, different temperatures. Why give up when you are almost there? Thermostat is like the easiest thing to shift and costs almost nothing. Is she going to junk this car for this? That would be insane. It's just a small problem. I am completely confused by this whole video. 🙄
Girls wouldn’t want to waste a lot of money fixing problems on a car they would rather junk it even if it was the smallest thing being a lug nut you wouldn’t believe it my neighbor asked me for help and I helped remove a lug nut that was stuck I had to hammer a socket in there just to get it out and she said she was going to junk the car first thing in the morning when the simple fix would only cost $20 down at autozone for new lug nuts
@@david14fan so true, my ex’s sunroof broke when we were dating. And let me tell you me and her have more chance of getting back together, than that sunroof ever getting fixed 😂
Overheating can be caused by a variety of issues, including what this man stated in the video. Cracked radiator, stuck thermostat, bad water pump, bad head gasket, air pocket in the coolant lines, radiator fans not coming on, low/no oil in the engine, serpentine belt not connected, or leak in the coolant hoses. Check upper and lower hoses to see if they're flimsy. If so, it's possible the pump is out, or you have a leak in the system. If the temperature rises rapidly then falls slowly with bubbling in the reservoir, then you have air trapped in the system. This one should be obvious, but check if the fan(s) are running. If they're not, then you either have a wiring issue, bad fan motor, or the pcm isn't telling the fan to cut on like it's supposed to. Check motor oil level to see if the motor is properly lubricated. Check under the ground (preferably on concrete) to see if there's any leaks under the radiator. Also, if possible, check the front of the radiator. Radiators have a thin forward facing grate that allows air to pass through to cool the coolant. Over time, bugs, grit and grime can clog it up reducing air flow. No air flow? No cooled coolant. So again, if possible.. check that as well. It's rare but can happen If all else fails then have a professional hook up an OBD2 scan tool, which was the big tablet in the video. Don't use the little cheap ones you can buy at Amazon or Walmart.. they work, but don't give you a full diagnosis like one of those tablets would. That's the closest you're gonna get to finding out the problem if nothing else is found.
To add to your well written list, here's a few more points to ponder... Oil pressure and sling... u mention oil level, but if the sling isn't doing it's job getting the oil up to the topside, or if the journals are plugged, that is also another consideration for overheating. (After all the basic stuff has been eliminated, anyhow.) Not to mention what will happen if the improper oil has been put through the system! I've seen sludge ooze out of an engine that should have died loooong before it finally did... People will all too often not think twice of adding different engine oils to their chariots and the same unfortunately goes for adding the CORRECT TYPE of coolant required by the manufacturer.
6:00 you can actually re-use that fluid for quite a while... If you have a car that turns it yellow, take the tool off of the rad/exp tank, hold it up in the air, and pump the bulb a bunch of times. It will draw fresh (atmospheric) air through it and will turn back to blue, and ready to go again for next time. That stuff is kinda expensive (well, at least I know it was when I used to buy it all of the time!) If you accidently suck up coolant, then it's kinda toast though... ;D
You can check for temperature differential between lower and top, lower hose and radiator. You can also purge the cooling system for possible trap air. The temperature difference will let you know if thermostat is opening also pin point a bad water pump.
She bought a New car , under warranty, or a newer used car . She should have test drove the car for about 20 minutes and then scanned the car with a, o.b.d reader, also now she knows to never buy a Nissan Altama again
They always circulate, they do have 2 and usually run pretty low temps. I would do both stats. The 4 cylinder water pump is belt driven but the v6 runs off the timing. Cheaper than an engine. If it was a head gasket the coolant would be noticeably low with the extend of overheating that has happened
Allot of people may not realize that on these front wheel drive car, the engine is actually tilted forward very slightly and when someone does a coolant change, they never think to burp the air out of the system and it gets stuck to the back of the engine. To fix that problem, you need to have the car inclined to a point that the engine is either level or slightly tilted back to get the air out of the back of the engine. This has worked for me 100% all the time or else the engine will continue overheating if that air is still trapped in the back of the engine. Just think of a coke bottle when you tilt it nose down, the air is at the back of the end of the bottle, you tilt it up, the air is in front of the bottle and that's how you burp the system.
One good indicator that the thermostat is stuck shut is one radiator hose will be cold.and the other will be stupid hot. A quick and easy test you could have done in this video. If the water pump is faulty, the the outlet pipe will be hot closer to the block but still cold at the radiator, eventually the hose would warm up threw convection further down. Once again you could have confirmed this at the time easily. It gives you a very good idea what is going on and a direction to confirm diagnose of the fault. Also you checked out one bank of cylinders but the head gasket could be faulty on the other bank. While the fluid block tester is good it sometimes does not always detect a failed head gasket, I myself have encountered this..
If anyones ever had the cooling system open for any reason or another and allowed air to get trapped. These are badddd about it. Typically youll see only overheat at idle when that happens. Trying to bleed these are quite hard too. Have to get the front end on quite the incline to get the air upto the rad. Putting a water pump in these is a bit painful since its driven by the timing chain. You could also try cleaning the tb to help raise the idle slightly. Bewarned tho that sometimes youll end up with too high of an idle and have to do a couple relearn procedures. As you saw these run pretty warm as it is. If the cooling system doesnt pressurize properly they will overheat aswell. That boiling will then also lead to issues with air now being in the system. Very finicky cars but when they run, they deffinately haul the mail!
This is TRUE info. When I had an Altima, I had a similar issue because of air in the system. Had to elevate the front of the car AND lift the coolant reservoir up higher than the engine, all while revving it to 3000 rpm to burp any air out. I never had an overheating issue, but in winter the heat didn't work at all until it got over 2500rpm. After burping, it wasnt 100% better, but it was a significant improvement.
I have a 13 altima and it has 200,000 on the original cvt because I change the cvt fluid every 30,000. Most people won't do that and that makes the cvt go out. It's not Nissan Fault it's Owner neglect
@@memewhisper you are exceptional to the rule but their are to many people who having issue with their Nissan vehicle. Think about it. I read on so many forum that the CVT go out after 15k of driving their new Nissan. people post videos how bad the tranny sound. How come people with Toyota or Honda do not have those problem as bad as Nissan owners. I used to have a 2011 Nissan Altima with no issues. So I know where you coming from. However, a lady hit my car from back and I was able to take that money and buy me a 2012 SE Camry. This car drive like a dream. I had this car for 3 yrs now with no issues. I paid cash for the car... My old Altima had no issue but i can tell that The tranny was going to give eventually but I continue to drive it. I change the fluids every 40k miles not Flush buy change.not going lie, I was so happy that the lady hit me from back. We were at a stop sign. I am a very handyman and I was taught to work on my car since I was a kid. Camry drive smooth and way better than Altima. With my Altima at time, I had a special grill infront bumper and added custom leather seats. Trust me I took care of the Altima but it's don't beat the Camry.
If I'm not mistaken He said early on the T-Stat was "Open" Just remove it and drop it in hot water to see if it opens . 2nd, Run the car without it , If it doesn't overheat then Bingo Also, Some cars have a Nightmare setup for radiator hose connections i.e. it's easy for them to get plugged. It's why I gave this up years ago, the people today want absolute answers and you can't provide that without time & money to trouble shoot !!!
I had a 2010 Altima Coupe 3.5L and had a small headgasket leak. It is fairly rare because the VQ35 engine is nice. Luckily, it was covered under warranty.
If a mechanic shows up to fix your car in crocs just know he’s one hell of a mechanic
haha
lmao when u pulled out a nut driver i was like bruh xD
Crocks? How about one in sandals? All I wear is sandals and not only do I work on cars for friends, I also do apartment maintenance. Lol
You make a lot more money too. I was making 60 an hour doing it. I was bringing in about 500 bucks a day. Average.
Lmfao
You're a good dude man, Its nice to see people like you genuinely concerned about your customers.
I agree he really seems to care I would have checked the oil most likely would have been milky if it was a head gasket
Waterpump test, Let the engine get warm, turn on the blowerheater, and set it to full HOT, if the air feels hot and stays hot then u have enough circulation, if the air from the vents slowly gets cooler (like outside temp) then u have an bad waterpump that is not circulating.
And check if the radiator cap is working, or just replace it to be sure.
Im a roadside technician in the Netherlands, we help stranded customers get on their way again.
Keep up the good work man!
Great heater coolant circulation tip. People overlook the $10 radiator cap. After many years, the cap get calcified and stops functioning of expansion and contraction of coolant.
@@gmailcgs Your right gotta use 50/50 or distilled water, but decent caps are way more then 10 bucks...lol i have went through many caps on GMs
@@mrbassman1972 I have a 2004 jeep liberty with a crack in the top of the radiator where it's plastic I just changed the cap when I bought it which was old and missing the rubber seal but I didn't add enough coolant and added some water so I was thinking that's why the radiator blew out it's a hairline crack where the plastic seams together at the top but I'm hoping it's not a bad water pump or blown head gasket new radiator should be here Sat so fingers crossed 🤞 that's all it is and I can add new coolant and be good
@@mrbassman1972 50/50 is a rip-off I've always just used a single jug of full concentrated anti freeze and topped off the rest of the way with water on my vehicles never had an issue. Why spend more $ buying something pre diluted when I have water at home
@@Valverde713 probably depends where you live. i wouldnt risk messing up the dilution and chemical properties where the temperature ranges from -50 in the winter to +40 in the summer where i live
This guy seems too nice and honest to be a mechanic. Hope people like this change the tide of what we're used to.
I just went thru this with my daughter's car! She bought an Infiniti G35X from an acquaintance of mine. He said it had a radiator hose leak and needed a couple of tires. Turned out it needed a head gasket, transmission rebuild, thermostat, power steering leaked, and it threw 32 codes....she got half her money back by selling it to a junk car buyer. Never buy without taking it to a trusted mechanic first!!
a code reader does wonders in this situation. 100 bucks gets you a good one
Infiniti is junk
Yea i cringe thinking back at how nonchalant i used to be about getting used vehicles. Now days, i will go over everything, everything, under the hood and under the car. Look at it all n test it all. Yep if u dont know how, get someone who does, its a big purchase that you dont want to get wrong.
@@0ptimalback in the day pre electrical/electronic everything the risk was lower as everything was mechanical, cheap(er) and way easier to replace.
Now a days everything is fancy and expensive so the risk for.used or no warranty is so high.
@@user-sl4ul4nc3t Even then, you’re at the mercy of the laws and regulations, and what the STEALERships can do behind your back….
Working on cars and documenting the entire experience and editing all of the videos all while balancing out a business seems insanely difficult, especially as a former tech. I like every video I watch from this channel based on that principal alone
same and he goes to school and has a family jesus christ this guy is a beast
Too kind. Both of y’all! Thanks so much for the support!
I love you Ernest fr bro
Best post and Best compliment EVER......liked this message, Mark R
Are you certified
Scotty Kilmer would have recommended a 94 Celica - bullet proof.
Or a Lexus. Everything else is an "endless money pit'.
Nissans are rolling piles of junk!😄---Scotty Kilmer.
@J D he talks absolute nonsense anyone in the trade knows hes a joke
Scotty#1
@@maybenot6075
You’re apparently the JOKE😂
Scotty has worked on cars as a kid since his father worked a gas station! Scotty without a doubt, has infinitely much more mechanical knowledge than YOU, think you “supposedly have” 😂😂
Just stfu dude!
I've ran into similar situations with customers of mine and I would definitely come out of my pocket to try a thermostat before they junk it. I go the extra mile for loyal customers even when they are broke and I admire that you would do the same. Please give us an update 🙏
I said that immediately
Why does it have to come out your pocket? There's simple, systematic ways to test a thermostat - both mechanical or electronically conttolled.
@@HristovRumen some people don't have the knowledge or skills Playa u may be 1
Thermostat first at least.
@@KOz1caa also could have air in system sometimes it evaporates people fill then dont burp
If you suspect a water pump is not pumping enough or at all turn on the heater. If the heater blows hot air that means the water pump is doing it's job and circulating water all the way up to the heater core. I have seen impellers shear right off the shaft and not cause a leak or loose pulley.
1) drain and vacuum refill to eliminate any air pockets. 2) On startup, check hose temperatures to see if thermostat is opening. then proceed as advised in the comments.
#SaveTheManuals
Not many mechanics would do this but you have earned my respect. Big props to you.
Save the manuals!!
I miss driving a manual
Haha, I saw the manual and immediately thought, damn a mechanic with a manual? That’s rare!
Ernest, you need to start super simple. Start with the radiator cap. If the cap is bleeding off pressure, it will lower the boiling point of the coolant. Bang, you're overheating! Had several cars in the shop this last month running hot. Three of them were simply bad radiator caps. Your pressure tester should be bale to test the cap as well.
I just went through this with my 2005 Honda Accord. The cap blew the spring out inside and was basically bleeding the pressure into the reservoir and that blew up aswell after it got too hot. Crazy the amount of damage a simple $10 part can do if you dont catch it in time and drive on that overheating motor for awhile
Had F-150 that had a bad overflow cap. $6 later, problem was solved.
HAd this happen with a brand new stant cap on a mustang. Replaced with a motorcraft and problem fixed
Exactly. An easy diag is when the vehicle seems to be “overheating,” but isn’t up to fans on temp yet using a scanner.
Cap every time.
Agreed. All I do is diagnose issues and have my techs repair. Always start simple. Test coolant with hydrometer. Okay good. Test cap pressure. Okay good. Pressure test. Okay good. Block test. Okay good. Scan tool, actuate low and high speed fan. Okay good. And go on and on. Start with the easiest things my man.
I.e. had a fuel pump job. Customer got a quoted and wanted a 2nd opinion. First step was, hearing pump on and seen gauge was full. 2nd step depress check valve on fuel rail. No fuel or pressure. 3rd step hit fuel tank. 4th step add fuel issue solved 😂😂. It’s basic things that would have cost that customer 580 dollars but instead 15 in fuel and 40 for service call/diag fee (lived 5min away).
It looks like she was smart enough to turn it off before it did the head. This is probably one of the few overheats that can be saved. I hope she doesn't give up until you check it further. I'd tell her to sell it either way. Nissans aren't what they used to be
I have an 08 3.5 altima and I haven't had any issues besides like a wheel bearing and a ball joint. The VQ35DE is the same design since 2000 when it was introduced so its not like they're known to not work. Actually you still see this year of Nissan on the road all of the time so i'd disagree. I believe she just got a car from someone that didn't take proper care of it.
@@Khaynizzle7 exactly, a well maintained well taken care of car will last 200k plus, people don’t follow the service intervals and then complain when something as small as a spark plug stops working
@@Zachery_ depends what your definition of a “car” includes. My guess is on average most factory Nissan automatic transmissions won’t last to 200k miles.
@@Zachery_ Wait, spark plugs can stop working?
@Romo Shakra scottie kilmer doesnt know his ass from his head. Vq35de engines are one if the best v6s ever built. Yes nissan did get a little worse over the years but they are making a comeback. The VQ35DE will last over 400 k miles with reg maintenance.
this is great content, keep it going brotha!! loving watch people learn new things. Best way to live life! I subbed!
As someone who spent a few years delivering pizzas one thing I quickly learned is that the shortest distance is not always the quickest distance. A lot of the times, even if you have to travel further, a major street with a higher speed limit can get you to a spot a lot closer to the customer before you get to where you have to travel on smaller streets with lower speed limits. When you are delivering hot food time is more important than distance.
I deliver with Doordash and UEs and you are 100% correct. There are several times I'll pick a slightly longer drive that takes me out of town since it's usually 55mph with no stop signs vs driving in town that may be 1/2 the distance but you have a ton of lights. So many drivers only focus on distance. You get caught in traffic when people are leaving work and you'll think twice. lol
When i delivered pizza i knew the city and would take side streets and back alleys. 4 way stop signs are so much better then stop lights cause i can do california stops. At times my california stops were just driving through like no stop sign if nobody around
your testing suggests a stuck closed thermostat. Another good tool to have is a laser thermometer to compare temperatures on the top and bottom hoses, as well as the radiator itself
Or the water pump impeller could dislocate from the shaft causing no circulation. Plastic impellers are known to fail that way.
@@TheAndre8900 Yes if it wasn’t a head gasket the thermostat is ALOT easier on those VQs then the water pump you would probably have to remove that engine mount
@@TheAndre8900 Or disintegrate.
Yeh especially since that car may have been sitting for months before she bought it giving the thermostat time to "stick" in place from lack of use.
Had a thermostat stick closed in my 57 Chevy and made it blow a hole in my nice old radiator. Luckily it was 1973 and they weren't so hard to get in fact I already had another.
Only time I had one do that but have had plenty that wouldn't close.
One time put a brand new one in a pot of hot water to test it and it opened up and broke right there in the pot.
you should do more of this stories to help people avoid getting scammed.
I had that same Altima with a 6 speed manual and the exact thing happened to me. It turned out to be the thermostat and coolant temp sensor
Those model years of altima are the WORST and least reliable cars ever made. Somebody should've told her... poor thing.
correct me if I'm mistaken... but doesn't a bad head gasket leak water into the oil?. You check the oil and if it comes out like a frothy milkshake ... car's done.
Hi Ernest. I would replace the thermostat and the radiator cap first. Can't wait for the follow up video to this saga. Have a blessed one.
Hopefully the end of the week or next week early.
Usually it's the thermostat I've come across about 80 thermostats installed backwards which usually results in a blown head gasket
at almost 20 years old I'd go straight for a new radiator
My car was getting hot we switched the water pump, thermostat, hoses, radiator and ac condenser turns out it was the high speed fan relay $20 bucks go figure lol
So you're saying the fans weren't running?
You're a certified parts changer.
Radiator fans have different speeds and sometimes the module burns up and only work on let’s say low fan speed. So initially you can see the fan working but as the car warms up and requires a faster speed it can be bad and cause the car to overheat.
The good news is, you have an all new cooling system!!!!
At least you don’t have to worry about the other parts in years
I work on my car outside here in Florida and things heat up really quick so try a cheap pop up canopy they work wonders to give some shade and even a little cover from those unexpected showers that seem to happen mid project.
Did this ever get repaired?
Make sure there isn't any air in coolant system
Very generous of you to donate your labor! I can't make a Venmo (phone number issues) but if you have a cash app I'd be glad to donate to the cause
8018221477 I don’t expect anything! But if you do I would be so grateful!
Hello Ernest. A little trick I learned when I was in automotive school is to take a laser temperature gun ($25+/- at harbor freight) and get a temp reading of the upper and lower radiator hoses after it's warmed up. Assuming there is no air in the system and it's been properly bled or "burped", They should be within 20 degrees of each other. If they are way different, i.e upper reads 200 and lower reads 130 than that usually indicates a thermostat issue. Could also be a water pump impeller totally corroded away and not pumping although the latter is pretty rare and usually only happens if they've been running hose water and not coolant. That coolant looks pretty clean so highly unlikely a corroded impeller....possibly a broken impeller which is also pretty rare. I believe some Nissan and infiniti V6 engines use an internal water pump driven off the timing chain. I'd start with a t-stat if temp readings are way off.
Yes, using a laser gun is a great time saver!
The laser gun idea is very good. Thanks for sharing.
@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 no problem. There's no telling how many bad thermostats over the years I've diagnosed using that method....works everytime. Just make sure you get your reading 4-6 inches down the hose from the engine. A little detail I forgot to add. Don't want to check it right where the hose comes out of the radiator. You will get a false reading if coolant is not flowing through the system.
Or clogged radiator.
@@Ed.01 indeed. If the coolant looks all rusty or cloudy I'll pull the thermostat out and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't, kinda narrows it down to the radiator or the pump.
Coolant temp sensors are a common failure on these. Misreading temperature, so the PCM doesn't command the fans on until it is too hot.
With so many electronics. You'd think we just build em 100% electric 🤡
That doesnt explain the lack of coolant flow tho
@Dev JB I worked on cars for 17 years professionally, I understand how engine cooling systems work. If the cooling fins on the Water pump are broken or corroded, it won't matter how much you Rev that engine
just look at the live data on a scan tool and see what the temp is when the fan kicks on, that will tell you if the sensor is bad
Usually for fluid circulation issues, the easiest and cheapest first step, without unloading the parts cannon, is recommending a thermostat replacement. A good way to figure that out or attempt a diagnosis on it is to measure temperature differences from the inlet and outlet coolant hoses or to actually delete the thermostat and reinstall the housing to see how it behaves (unless it’s a thermostat/housing assembly). But I’ve had so many over heating vehicles with no coolant leaks and no MILs have it be a thermostat stuck closed. Sometimes it just won’t throw a light for it. Other times you’re lucky and it tells you through the scan tool. But a cheap, and quick first step is always the thermostat and a radiator cap. Saves the customer money on expensive repairs if that ends up being the issue
An infrared thermometer is made for this ...see if upper and lower hoses same temp or one cold
some cars you have to pull the engine to get to the thermostat, i think the country starts with a G
@@raydemos1181Europea…. Oh God.
Great people make up this Great Country! Well done! If I wasn’t a mechanic I would never buy a used car without an inspection
Something as simple as trapped air will definitely cause the engine to overheat. I bet they tried to do coolant change or thermostat replacement and didn’t do a good job getting the air out
Happened to my jeep recently when my coolant level was too low. Mine has a bolt on the thermostat elbow. I burped it and it’s been good since...knock on wood.
This engine airs itself out
happened to me with my civic i bought, changed all fluids and started overheating due to air trapped in the radiator, simply bled it and runs good as new lol
Did a drain and fill on a 2010 mazda 3 i bought used. After draining and putting in new coolant I bled it by running the engine with the radiator cap off for a while. As coolant got low I put in more until it eventually stopped getting low. 10k miles later it and no issues whatsoever.
Most Nissan have these issues of overheating
You could, either use an infrared thermometer or your finger. Aim the gun or touch one side of the radiator and then the other. If there is a noticable difference in temp it's most likely a clogged radiator. If not, you've narrowed it down to a flow problem. Which leaves the thermostat or water pump.
I would start with the thermostat, and use an infrared temp gun on the block and the exiting radiator hose. if fans are running and 20* difference on the hose, probably a bad thermostat.
Absolutely
Journeyman Mechanic 36 years ( last 5 actually Managed fleet of 3000 semi's across North America:
During my schooling with Caterpillar we were taught how to determine 99% of overheat problems with a heat gun. Saves a lot of time.
Great video
Been driving for 38year
Love the integrity
A honest mechanic will stay busy
Love it awesome content
First thing i would check is both coolant hoses for temp. A thermal imager I use would aid me in seeing a clogged radiator or stuck thermostat. If there wasn't much temp difference I would lead towards the Water pump impeller braking off the spline.
if it stayed blue then there were no combustion gases in the coolant...I'd go for the thermostat
No milk on the dip stick Do what I just did and I don't know squat about cars. Buy a thermostat gasket at parts store and just pull the thermostat. No more overheating. Worry about heat when it gets cold. About $3..
@@uzi1951: Probably will set code P0128; won't pass smog.
I believe so as well, thermostat probably is stuck closed
@@uzi1951 you do this and you will get poor gas mileage and if u run the car for very long it WILL over heat
@@chasewebber4316 I did a Google search, some people never have thermostats, in used cars.
Its really sad that you have to automatically wonder if they are lying to you about the problem.
I pity any poor woman whose husband is not called Ernest.
You are awesome. I pray that you can figure this out.
Keep up the good work.
Love the content.
Your a genuine nice guy 😃
Greetings from Scotland 🏴 Great Britain 🇬🇧
Thank you!
Looks like a stuck thermostat to me. After a pressure test on the cooling system showed stable, thermostat replacement. Typically an easy job for many vehicles. Some can be a PITA though. I am 57 years old and did my first engine and transmission swap at 15, a 72 chevy station wagon. Simple cars to work on back in those days. I used to be able to diagnose a problem by description of what the vehicle did and didn't do. Not bragging, just saying vehicles were much easier to figure out and fix back in the day.
The video hashtags look like the GTA San Andreas font lmao
Haha
Use a temp gun to check the temperature drop across the radiator.
If the drop is excessive, it mean the coolant is circulating too slowly through the system.
I wish to God there was more mechanics like you out there man you guys are awesome you got subscriber and a like just for that reason alone it's too bad there's places out there that are steady trying to rip people off man they're trying to make a living and people are trying to take their hard-earned money and they don't need to. God bless you guys!!
We are out there, most of the time it the owners of the shops who try to scam people, or people don't like to pay the price to get it done right.
I'm guessing the basics have been done? Check oil level, check transmission fluid level? Low levels on those can also cause overheating. Radiator fan is spinning I'm guessing? 😀 Could there be crap in the radiator preventing cooling from being effective? I'd think this would still pass a pressure check if so, but it would make cooling much less effective. (Maybe someone (shady dealer?) added one of those stop-leak kits?)
I actually enjoy this voice over. I think you should test it out. Seems like it'll make it easier for you to record bc you wouldnt have to be explaining everything on the spot while holding the camera.
New subscriber thanks for sharing and that’s a really a nice gesture. Definitely get a shade umbrella. Thanks stay safe and well Artie 👍
Remove the thermostat,test it in a pot of heated water and whilst doing so,run the vehicle without it.
You are a nice young man with a big heart.
Thumbs up.
From working on these I would say water pump if you don’t see good coolant circulation. But I did notice you said it only overheated when parked which brings up the other common issue that I have ran to with these. When the car is driving the temp is fine until you come to a stop, which means Either the main radiator fan is not working at full power do to age or the relay is going out.
Those 3.5 liter Altimas are a pain to work on due to the lack of space. If that were a 2.5 it would be so much easier to do a water pump and thermostat
First time here I subscribe. I seen a lot of great comment and ideas hope they worked good luck. By the way Utah looks great can really say the same here in the ne.
Great vids and to the nissan haters I have a 2000 maxima with 303,410 miles on it, still runs great but will burn a quart every 6 months or so. Now it's the Pennsylvania roads and salt in the winter that I worry about.
Cvt transmission in these are junk from the day it was built. You have a good non cvt in your Nissan.
I'm over in a blue state in the Northeast. The DOT has a road chemical that they use on winter roads that eats your brake lines and any other untreated metal. I get all my vehicles Fluid Filmed.
We had a maxima and let me tell you that thing had some serious problems after 140k. As much as we tried fix it, I will say it always gave out on a new problem. Timing chain, water pump, power steering pump and rack etc.. just buy a new car(other than Nissan)in my opinion
dang i got the 07 maxima with 88k miles had it for 4 years now have had to change the starter, positive lead cable near battery, and power steering line.
cars fun tho and I've done the transmission drain and fill. been to Yosemite, sd, sf with the car even took it on some small offroad trails to get to hikes.
hopefully it lasts me its my first car since I was 18.
scotty kilmer says they start falling apart after 100k miles
@@TheChuyDewy Looks like you have 12,000 miles left, better get going...LOL...
@@TheChuyDewy transmission still holding up? Buddy, sell it now for the most money you can get before it does give you the headaches and you will be stuck with a big repair bill and no car.
Reliable cars are Toyota/Honda and Lexus
@@ShisuiHack well Lexus is pretty much the same company at Toyota as far as motors go. That is why you see Lexus retail value far better than bmw and Mercedes.
X2 for replacing the 2 thermostats. Pretty common issue and have seen this cause those same issues multiple times. Best of luck man keep it Rollin!
Would be good to leave written comments on screen a little longer, often have to pause. Good content though 👍🏻
Wow firstly what a great guy and mechanic.. second what a shame for the new owner. Seems a tricky problem.. every car I have owned and had issues.. the mechanic knows what's wrong within 5minute looking at it. Great video
A quick circulation test is to see if the heater works. Also I would have checked the temps at the radiator inlet and outlet for a major difference. Should be within 20 degrees of each other. These cars are also notorious for trapped air bubbles. I think Nissan even has a tsb about how to release trapped air in the system by jacking the car up in the front and running it at 2000rpm with a fill funnel on. But I always use an air lift.
Your Mother is a fill funnel.
This ^... the official Nissan TSB for the VQ35DE recommends you remove the bleeder valve, fill the radiator until it overflows from the bleeder, then cap off the bleeder and radiator, start the car, hold it at 3500 rpm, then check the valve, if there is air, fill the radiator more, and repeat until the bleeder stays full, or until the car has consistent heat at idle. Cheers!
@@matthewpalm7484 Yeah, I've purchased some vehicles where someone replaced a cracked radiator or some reason broke into the cooling system and then they say it's overheating. Every time it had to do with air in the system.
I'm actually a Nissan technician. Coolant temperature sensor could still be bad even though the A/C is turning the fans on ( Check to see if the CTS is reading some weird temperature like 40 degrees when it's at operating temperature ) or something blocking flow in the system like a partially stuck closed thermostat. 2007 ... wonder when the last time the coolant was replaced.
How about feeling the upper hose to see how hot it gets. That was the old school method to give a hint about the thermostat. The engine sounded pretty good. It takes a long time for a water pump to fail. I might even take the upper hose off to see flow.
That was literally an ASE question I had not too long ago
Look in rad and see a flow. Dad always told me leave water level low one inch to watch flow
Top radiator hose and lower hose should be the same temperature when hot. If not more than likely thermostat.
Definitely do the water pump and thermostat
If possible check the actual temp vs what the coolant temp sensor is reading, IR thermometer works well
I also agree with thermostat and water pump
I said this in a reply but I really think you need to see it….
Definitely check the radiator. If it’s only overheating when still and the fans are running it could mean there is either an air blockage or a water blockage reducing the effective size of the radiator.
If the car is moving there is enough air to dissipate the heat but when it’s stopped, the fans can’t keep up.
Water blockages of radiators often occurs if someone mixes two different types of coolant. It then creates some gel and/or hard rock-like deposits that easily get clogged in the radiator tubes. Look at the color of the coolant and see if it is the same color as the OEM coolant. Even if it is, it likely could have been topped off with the wrong coolant creating just enough deposits to form in the radiator. If it is not OEM color, then lingering coolant from an improper flush mixed with the new non-OEM coolant created gel and clogged the rad.
Also some people said radiator cap which is also probable.
You can tell a good mechanic when they drive a junky old car. They know if it breaks they will just fix it and they don't spend a lot of money on a car.
Most people now don't know anything about cars other than were the key goes in the ignition and are easily ripped off so any help is greatly appreciated especially ones who are new to car ownership keep up the good work be careful and stay safe my friend God love ya
It’s either clogged radiator or water pump
Definitely start with the thermostat. The water pump on these is a very involved job because I believe it runs off the timing chain. These cars are an absolute nightmare to work on under the hood. No room anywhere.
I replaced a head gasket on our old Maxium and it sucked.
Yep!! All interference monitors suck big bag o diks! !! I refuse to work in therm ! Just learned my lesson money wise they aren't worth it for mobile wrenching rates!
If it was a shady dealer, the coolant system could've been leaking when they bought it, and they used a leak stopper that is now clogging the system and slowing or stopping proper flow. Not sure how you test that theory or fix it, though.
Those stop leaks would leave a shiny crystal like particles inside the cooling system, kinda like pearls, but you can just tell if they used that stuff.
@@bencortez05 Normally turns the coolant somewhat brown doesn't it?
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists not really positive on the color, but for sure crystal like particles, brown coolant usually makes me lead towards rust in the system.
@@bencortez05 Maybe!
@@bencortez05 youre correct. Brown fluid is corrosion or oil. This is due to combustion gases coming through the water jackets in the head. Watch for bubbling in the coolant. This will mean you have combustion entering the system, or you have boiling coolant. Grab a chemical tester and test the fluid. You're either changing the fluid or changing the head gaskret.
I automatically replace my water pumps and thermostat every 100k with the timing belts fan belts per spec As standard maintenance. Nothing like getting stranded for a commonly wear item. All depends what your tolerance is. I hate been hung up for something avoidable
Those cars brake alot. Worked on to many
Nissans will run forever if you take care of them. I have a 2011 Nissan Altima Coupe with 278,000 miles on it. She runs amazing. I do all my own work on it. I change oil 3 times a year. Change transmission fluid every two years. Change spark plugs once a year, spark plug wires évery two years. Change front brakes once a year, rear brakes every two years. Disc rotors change every two years. Replaced radiator and condensor every five years.
As far as this video goes, I had the same problem with my Nissan Altima coupe in the beginning that you have in this video and I ended up putting a trans cooler in and it fixed the problem. Nissan Dealership said all is fine but wouldn't drive it for more than 5 minutes to allow the whiny grindy sound to start happening. I would have the occasional overheating on a hot Florida day and after the car would run for about 20 minutes, I would hear like a whiney/grindy sound almost like a supercharger makes when accelerating. So I did research and installing a trans cooler in front of the radiator did the trick. I paid like 50 bucks for the trans cooler and installed it myself.
You sound like you have stock in an auto parts store.
@@AStanton1966 I ordered everything off of Amazon. The auto parts stores are 100% loyal to certain brand names that I find to be poor to mediocre quality.
easy way to check flow, the hoses will be cold till the thermostat opens. i start the engine and put my obd scan tool extension on it and hang out under the car with my hand on the hose and watch the engine heat, when the scan tool shows 180* or so, that hose should get hot as the thermo opens, if it dont then its a thermo and or water pump.
I agree with you and others, probably a faulty thermostat, water pump impeller issue or least likely would be a blocked radiator. The thermostat might be located where the lower hose connects to the engine, so the top hose will still get hot and coolant can boil up out of the engine to the radiator with this configuration, if the thermostat is stuck closed. Would want to check the temp of the bottom hose and comparing the two hoses should indicate if there's any flow going through the thermostat and coolant circulation around the engine etc👍
from a plymouth to an altima, jeez that lady sure picks the crappiest cars lol
when you are looking at a used car, always assume that you are going to have to spend a thousand dollars to fix all of the things the seller didnt want to fix themselves. brakes, a-arm bushings. stuff that doesnt show, but makes the car feel 'off' if you are the one who wore all that stuff out. if you dont do this, dont say you have been scammed. it is your fault.
She made the mistake of buying a Nissan
For sure. Nissan is junk
lol ford cousin , I have a1995 Nissan pick up D21
All cars are shit, pick your flavor! 🤣🤣🤣
@@davyjones922 facts each one got their issues
We have had 3 Nissans and they all were good 200,000+ on the prvious 2 100,000 + on this Pathfinder.... Of course I do all the maintenance on them....
Jack the front of the car up as high as you can get it and bleed it with a Spill Free Funnel.
Hold the RPMS at like 3/4k for 10/20 seconds while bleeding it, it often will be necessary to bleed it completely.
These engine coolant systems are notorious for being a pain to bleed.
I like this idea - helps release trapped air in the cooling system, costs you labor only. In the “old days” you could see the thermostat open as the water level would drop in the upper tank and flow would increase or be more visible. Check the oil dipstick for presence of antifreeze contaminated oil (creamy tan or frothy color) indicative of head gasket problems.
Very hot in his state right now (I live in the same state). Averaging about 100 degrees or more. Bless this man 😂
I saw “new car,” and wondered how a new car deal could be bad or a scam with warranties…then I realized you meant new to her. lol
In the UK, any car older than 3 years must have an annual MOT inspection, which costs about £35/ $50. If I’m ever looking to buy a used car, I ask the vendor if they’re happy for me to book the vehicle for a test. Cheapest 5* road safety inspection you’ll ever pay for.
But an MoT wouldn't help for mechanical issues.
I dont know about the UK but in US i dont think anyone wants you taking their car anywhere let alone drive it away. If you pay me $300 for my time to accompany you to a mechanic then maybe ...else too many theives. They may carjack you at their "mechanics" place
You comment that the water (coolant) was boiling; however, coolant doesn't boil. If you're seeing boiling, either tap or filtered water was used in/with the cooling system instead of distilled water. I'd completely drain the cooling system and fill it with the proper coolant-to-distilled water ratio. Also, I believe you're spot on. Sounds like the thermostat was stuck closed.
Sorry..... but i have to chime in here and call bs regarding the boiling point...... it doesn't matter if you're using tap, filtered or distilled water, the boiling point is always 100°C.....
Yes the ratio coolant to water could be off but the coolant can still boil if the waterpump doesn't work right because then you'd reach a lot more than 100°C and especially when the coolant system isn't under pressure because it is open....
@@320iSTWEdition Truly distilled water contains no minerals and/or impurities. Such impurities are what causes nucleation (bubbles produced once water reaches 212° at sea level).
While it's true that distilled water 𝘸𝘪𝘭𝘭 boil away, it will *not* produce bubbles during the boiling process unless you disturb it after it's reached the boiling point - e.g. putting a metal or wooden spoon in the water. You can test this at home, but it's advisable to use a clean Pyrex or tempered glass container instead of metal.
Once you disturb distilled water at boiling point, you will see bubbles since you've introduced a nucleation site via the spoon or other foreign object. The impurities are why you should never use tap water in your car's cooling system. *Always* use distilled water but only if your coolant isn't pre-diluted.
@@Carlos-ov1hg I've been using tapwater in all my cars cooling systems in a 50/50 mixture for over 20 years and NEVER had a boiling issue EXCEPT the cooling system wasn't sealed right because i had it open or the radiator housing was broken. Even driving in summer with high revs on the Autobahn and over 30°C outside temperature and having the A/C on full power, the cooling system never had any problems with tap water..... but you surely have an explanation for this too.
I've got one..... there was a problem with the cooling system and it wasn't what kind of water was used (because it doesn't matter like i stated before)..... regarding this fault here he changed the thermostat and bled the system correctly because like in many BMW's this car doesn't wanna bleed right if the filler neck is sitting too low..... and that is his guess for the overheating issue while sitting because it never happened during driving.....
IF it would have been an issue with the coolant, it would have had to happen ANYtime.....
I commend you on your chemical knowledge, but it really isn't an issue with cars and the coolants used because they make sure that you can even use tapwater without any downsides for the cooling of the engine.
@@320iSTWEdition I never said you 𝘤𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥𝘯'𝘵 use tap water. I simply said you 𝘴𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥𝘯'𝘵 use tap water for the previously stated reason(s). By your logic, a motorist should continue texting whilst driving since they haven't had an accident, *yet*.
If you replace the water pump , you’ll end up doing a timing chain job ( probably never been done and due), this ends up being a costly time consuming job
And if you do all that mine as well reseal the rear cover and get new gallery gaskets and tensioners guides ect.
You can buy another vehicle with the $ it costs to do that job on this rig. Could probably find two more vehicles if standards of visual appearance wasn't a factor.
"But this looks nicer"
Yeah, your gonna pay for those "looks" dearly!
Not that hard of a job with the right tools four hours or less
@@markheatherly2915 would love to see that. I would guess if your super versed, a senior master with all tooling imaginable, you might kick this out in a full day if your a strait badass. Not sure if you know this 3.5 motor in mounted sideways, making the front cover a super tight fit. All accessories come off the front. It's a typical Nissan, aka pile of shit. Hard to work on, expensive parts.
I'll stand by my comment, it would be better to move on and spend the $2k on something else. The cvt transmissions on these are garbage. You'd be in for another 3-4k WHEN it goes, then you still have a total pile, that you cant depend on.
I've worked on these(not chain replacement) and there's no way to do pump, chain, guides and tensioner in that time frame. Impossible.
@@georgesrisomsak9650 I done more timing belts and chains than I can count and I do have a lot in my tools but it dont take a whole lot of tools to do a timing belt job on v6 honda for instance hydraulic tensioner, water pump, timing belts, cam seals,crank seal,drive belts,6 spark plugs, oil change and filter, air filter, all oem from service center 480 give or take few dollars and 250 in labor and I never advertised and drop off the night before I drain the oil and coolant overnight and you can pick up by noon the next day and this stuff was just a hobby my real job was working at honda for 26 years but I worked on all makes and all models foreign and domestic and never had a single car I couldnt fix no matter how many tried before I always figured it out. My point is this most people assume they cant do this or that but it's not that hard if you take the time to learn it the speed comes naturally if I can do it why cant anybody else and not knowing how hard the job is can allow shops to take advantage of you do you know how a shop says no to a job they dont want they overpriced it and if you dont know you pay it. And I love showing how to do anything car related hell I even took full color pics before and after to help people from being taken advantage of and I made more money most of the time than my full time job, so unless I've missed your point, it can be done I have done it and you could too you can do anything you set your mind to do and who cant use extra cash, if bet I cant I would be taken your cash too cuz I gamble lol I play the lotto too and I hit it too cant win at anything if you dont even try.
That Ranger you’re driving is my favorite year. 93-94. New body style, but they kept the dash from the old body style until 95. I always liked that style interior.
It’s cool. My birth year. Both my daily’s have been 94.
Had an Altima with this problem a couple of months ago. Car passed both a pressure test and a compression test. #4 cylinder head gasket had a small crack that only showed up when the engine was at operating temp. Go figure.
Thats due to never changing the coolant during regular intervals. Every 100 k miles you should bleed the coolant and refresh.
@@chrishuber8930 The lady who owned it had full records that showed regular cooling system services. Car had just over 240k miles on the odo. She had gone to three other shops before she came to mine.
@@chrishuber8930 my head gasket will last for 20 million miles as long as I change the coolant every 100k?
@@clutchboi4038 obviously not 20 million lol but it should outlast the car. I have had a few vq35de engines and they all had 300 k or more on them without fail. I usually refresh my engines at 300 k miles.
If 4 cyl Altima is running hot, pull the spark plugs
If no residue is on one, and one doesn’t come out like it’s stuck, pressure test with spark plugs out and leave it for a little
You can also look at cylinders and see which ones have been washed
I bought a car in an auction. Carola. Sounds like a truck . So far replaced 4 tires. Battery needed changing. Never again.
Appreciate your advice. I despise dealers taking advantage of women. Air-conditioning went out dealership wanted over 1000 dollars. Got the problem fixed , costing 55 dollars , free on added. Bought a new car , at least have some guarantee. I guess you know don't know anything about cars. Learned a lot from you . Thanks
The comments are very helpful as well.
Strange that he is so hesitant to check out the thermostat. Checked the whole thing and all is good than it's very likely that the thermostat is stuck in a certain position. It happens quite often when a car changes owner that the thermostat goes. Different driving style, different temperatures. Why give up when you are almost there? Thermostat is like the easiest thing to shift and costs almost nothing. Is she going to junk this car for this? That would be insane. It's just a small problem. I am completely confused by this whole video. 🙄
Girls wouldn’t want to waste a lot of money fixing problems on a car they would rather junk it even if it was the smallest thing being a lug nut you wouldn’t believe it my neighbor asked me for help and I helped remove a lug nut that was stuck I had to hammer a socket in there just to get it out and she said she was going to junk the car first thing in the morning when the simple fix would only cost $20 down at autozone for new lug nuts
@@david14fan so true, my ex’s sunroof broke when we were dating. And let me tell you me and her have more chance of getting back together, than that sunroof ever getting fixed 😂
Overheating can be caused by a variety of issues, including what this man stated in the video. Cracked radiator, stuck thermostat, bad water pump, bad head gasket, air pocket in the coolant lines, radiator fans not coming on, low/no oil in the engine, serpentine belt not connected, or leak in the coolant hoses.
Check upper and lower hoses to see if they're flimsy. If so, it's possible the pump is out, or you have a leak in the system.
If the temperature rises rapidly then falls slowly with bubbling in the reservoir, then you have air trapped in the system.
This one should be obvious, but check if the fan(s) are running. If they're not, then you either have a wiring issue, bad fan motor, or the pcm isn't telling the fan to cut on like it's supposed to.
Check motor oil level to see if the motor is properly lubricated.
Check under the ground (preferably on concrete) to see if there's any leaks under the radiator. Also, if possible, check the front of the radiator. Radiators have a thin forward facing grate that allows air to pass through to cool the coolant. Over time, bugs, grit and grime can clog it up reducing air flow. No air flow? No cooled coolant. So again, if possible.. check that as well. It's rare but can happen
If all else fails then have a professional hook up an OBD2 scan tool, which was the big tablet in the video. Don't use the little cheap ones you can buy at Amazon or Walmart.. they work, but don't give you a full diagnosis like one of those tablets would. That's the closest you're gonna get to finding out the problem if nothing else is found.
To add to your well written list, here's a few more points to ponder... Oil pressure and sling... u mention oil level, but if the sling isn't doing it's job getting the oil up to the topside, or if the journals are plugged, that is also another consideration for overheating. (After all the basic stuff has been eliminated, anyhow.) Not to mention what will happen if the improper oil has been put through the system! I've seen sludge ooze out of an engine that should have died loooong before it finally did... People will all too often not think twice of adding different engine oils to their chariots and the same unfortunately goes for adding the CORRECT TYPE of coolant required by the manufacturer.
You have to love those manual transmission Rangers! Iʻll get another one someday, hopefully a 4X4 regular cab.
6:00 you can actually re-use that fluid for quite a while... If you have a car that turns it yellow, take the tool off of the rad/exp tank, hold it up in the air, and pump the bulb a bunch of times. It will draw fresh (atmospheric) air through it and will turn back to blue, and ready to go again for next time. That stuff is kinda expensive (well, at least I know it was when I used to buy it all of the time!)
If you accidently suck up coolant, then it's kinda toast though... ;D
Nice to see this problem solving "outside the dealership domain."
You can check for temperature differential between lower and top, lower hose and radiator. You can also purge the cooling system for possible trap air. The temperature difference will let you know if thermostat is opening also pin point a bad water pump.
She bought a New car , under warranty, or a newer used car . She should have test drove the car for about 20 minutes and then scanned the car with a, o.b.d reader, also now she knows to never buy a Nissan Altama again
They always circulate, they do have 2 and usually run pretty low temps. I would do both stats. The 4 cylinder water pump is belt driven but the v6 runs off the timing. Cheaper than an engine. If it was a head gasket the coolant would be noticeably low with the extend of overheating that has happened
Remove the thermostats and see if it stops overheating?
Thermostats are designed to fail in the open position so the vehicle doesn't overheat.
@@righteousone1 yeah but sometimes that fail safe doesn't work. I've had it happen on a few vehicles and it remains shut
@@koriyuhboi436
You clearly don't know what you're talking about as both hoses were hot on the Nissan.
@@righteousone1 okay, but still Thermostats still fail and stay shut 🤣
@@curtisnoble.
I ain't never had a thermostat fail in the closed position. The real fail is your English.
Allot of people may not realize that on these front wheel drive car, the engine is actually tilted forward very slightly and when someone does a coolant change, they never think to burp the air out of the system and it gets stuck to the back of the engine. To fix that problem, you need to have the car inclined to a point that the engine is either level or slightly tilted back to get the air out of the back of the engine. This has worked for me 100% all the time or else the engine will continue overheating if that air is still trapped in the back of the engine. Just think of a coke bottle when you tilt it nose down, the air is at the back of the end of the bottle, you tilt it up, the air is in front of the bottle and that's how you burp the system.
One good indicator that the thermostat is stuck shut is one radiator hose will be cold.and the other will be stupid hot. A quick and easy test you could have done in this video. If the water pump is faulty, the the outlet pipe will be hot closer to the block but still cold at the radiator, eventually the hose would warm up threw convection further down. Once again you could have confirmed this at the time easily. It gives you a very good idea what is going on and a direction to confirm diagnose of the fault. Also you checked out one bank of cylinders but the head gasket could be faulty on the other bank. While the fluid block tester is good it sometimes does not always detect a failed head gasket, I myself have encountered this..
If anyones ever had the cooling system open for any reason or another and allowed air to get trapped. These are badddd about it. Typically youll see only overheat at idle when that happens. Trying to bleed these are quite hard too. Have to get the front end on quite the incline to get the air upto the rad. Putting a water pump in these is a bit painful since its driven by the timing chain. You could also try cleaning the tb to help raise the idle slightly. Bewarned tho that sometimes youll end up with too high of an idle and have to do a couple relearn procedures. As you saw these run pretty warm as it is. If the cooling system doesnt pressurize properly they will overheat aswell. That boiling will then also lead to issues with air now being in the system. Very finicky cars but when they run, they deffinately haul the mail!
This is TRUE info. When I had an Altima, I had a similar issue because of air in the system. Had to elevate the front of the car AND lift the coolant reservoir up higher than the engine, all while revving it to 3000 rpm to burp any air out.
I never had an overheating issue, but in winter the heat didn't work at all until it got over 2500rpm. After burping, it wasnt 100% better, but it was a significant improvement.
@@Conqueef-tadoor never had an overheating issue so far in the 4 years with the max with the same engine in the winter aswell
Rule number 1: Don't buy a Altima.
Rule number 2: Read rule number 1...
Rule number 3: buy a Camry or Toyota Corolla
Ok Scotty Kilmer
I have a 13 altima and it has 200,000 on the original cvt because I change the cvt fluid every 30,000. Most people won't do that and that makes the cvt go out. It's not Nissan Fault it's Owner neglect
@@memewhisper you are exceptional to the rule but their are to many people who having issue with their Nissan vehicle. Think about it. I read on so many forum that the CVT go out after 15k of driving their new Nissan. people post videos how bad the tranny sound. How come people with Toyota or Honda do not have those problem as bad as Nissan owners. I used to have a 2011 Nissan Altima with no issues. So I know where you coming from. However, a lady hit my car from back and I was able to take that money and buy me a 2012 SE Camry. This car drive like a dream. I had this car for 3 yrs now with no issues. I paid cash for the car... My old Altima had no issue but i can tell that The tranny was going to give eventually but I continue to drive it. I change the fluids every 40k miles not Flush buy change.not going lie, I was so happy that the lady hit me from back. We were at a stop sign. I am a very handyman and I was taught to work on my car since I was a kid. Camry drive smooth and way better than Altima. With my Altima at time, I had a special grill infront bumper and added custom leather seats. Trust me I took care of the Altima but it's don't beat the Camry.
Ay quit cappin on my Altima it’s still running strong with 215k on the clock 😂😂
Hey Scotty u forgot to also include Honda civic
Am I the only one who would have a giggle if my mechanic turned up wearing a prison orange jumpsuit and crocs?
LOL, got out on good time to help a lady out.....
@@tonyjordan1320 Its Ca what do you expect
Maybe thats why everyone is so happy to see me!
🤣
If I'm not mistaken He said early on the T-Stat was "Open" Just remove it and drop it in hot
water to see if it opens . 2nd, Run the car without it , If it doesn't overheat then Bingo
Also, Some cars have a Nightmare setup for radiator hose connections i.e. it's easy for them
to get plugged. It's why I gave this up years ago, the people today want absolute answers and
you can't provide that without time & money to trouble shoot !!!
I had a 2010 Altima Coupe 3.5L and had a small headgasket leak. It is fairly rare because the VQ35 engine is nice. Luckily, it was covered under warranty.