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Hey Makuloco question are the spark plugs and coils the same part number for the 2005 f150 4.6 L? Thanks for all the info that you share helps a lot. Greeting from Arizona.
So basically use a ford coil on number 2. I actually have a 2007 with an aftermarket engine and transmission... same dang problem. But about a year ago I had no choice but to put a ford plug and coil on number two and NO ISSUES AFTER THAT.
@@armandocarriedo9354 I have a 2004 Ford f150 5.4. 3v and the plugs are a diferent part number in the 4.6 than the 5.4. They look almost identical but the part numbers are different. He actually has done several videos on plug replacement including one that explains the diference.
Great channel very informative but I have an issue it's an 07 5.4 with a tick not the phaser. The tick is on the passenger side if the RPM's get up like 3 grand it begins to run rough and weak you can cut it off let it sit and start it back up runs fine until it's in overdrive in a pull then it has a hard skip. Help please
Well the primary answer is that people who would’ve gone into the repair business back in the 60s and 70s are no longer doing so, and people who were in the business and were good have left because the pay was so low, and now shops are scrambling to get young people to go into the business who really don’t have the aptitude for it. Once in a while you’re going to find somebody like this gentleman who owns his own repair shop and sets his own prices and is his own boss and that’s where you’re going to find the people with the most talent today.
You're better off using OEM parts in a Ford 100% of the time... Use motorcraft spark plugs and you'll have no problem. Also on your coil overs instead of buying new ones replace the springs and boots on the original ones and it's like brand new coil overs 😊
I can say I did a complete timing set coils oil pump spark plugs water pump and alternator on my moms 2006 Expedition about 3 years ago I used all ford parts except the high volume meling oil pump. I also replaced all injectors with Ford ones. The car Had 130k miles on it when I did the work on it. It now has 156k miles and It has zero problems and runs like a dream. I also converted it to full synthetic Motorcraft 5W30 and to be honest it never has had a problem since. Thanks for your expertise in this realm. I love the 5.4L 3v Triton
Hey I just want you to know how grateful we are to have you in the TH-cam Community to help everyone with Fords! I have worked on cars for most of my life and you teach me things about Ford's I never really knew. I mostly worked on General Motors products. Great video thank you very much!
Thanks to Brian and his channel for giving us less experienced mechanics the courage to install new plugs and coils in our fords. I have a 13 expedition I just tuned up thanks to his videos.
It took me 2 years to figure out the reason I kept burning spark plugs on random cylinders. seams like 25 ft/lbs is too much torque for a spark plug in an aluminum head, but that much torque cured my problems. Thanks for the video as it confirmed my suspicions.
“If i’m gonna fix it, i’m gonna fix it right.” I love it. That’s why i watch your vids. If i owned a ford i would drive from colorado to let you work on it.
We were taught to do just that in high school auto shop in the 70's. Not just plug wells, but any area of the engine compartment before opening up any component under the hood. As well as brake slave cylinders, live axles, trans/transfers.... Good practice. Who needs to have anything unwanted falling into the works.
First day with my 09 F350 I changed plugs/cops, oil/filt etc... I couldn't even get the plug socket on 2 cylinders, so much dirt in there i couldn't even see the plugs. Blowing out the area before disassembly is a priority, specially in wells like in our 5.4l heads. I think I have a pic somewhere.
I'm a fan of using OE spark plugs in everything but I have installed many sets of Champions in three valves and had no problems. At least the Champions do not come out in two pieces.
I work at ford in parts and let me just start by saying I watch all ur videos cuz they always helped me in some sort of way. Also lots of customers come in and mention I watch you on TH-cam and I’ll be like oh me too he gets down lol. Keep up the great videos and knowledge coming
I've broken a spark plug before in a head. My solution was to JB weld the broken part of the plug back on the remaining bit. It dried on so hard that I was able to get the plug out.
I bought a '05 F-150 from a small mechanic shop outside of town. The mechanic that works on the cars before they sell them said he pulled a few of the plugs out and said they were good so he didn't replace them. The truck had 112,000 miles on it at the time! He was full of shit! At about 140,000 miles I started having lots of random misfire problems from multiple cylinders. I decided to go all in and replace all of the plugs and coils. I'm glad i did. The plugs were the original shit plugs from Ford! They LITERALLY had a .25in gap in them!!! There was no electrode left on them. I ended up breaking 4 out of 8 getting them out but it was no problem with the extractor tool from Lisle tools! The engine runs so much better now! Plenty of power and acceleration and not single misfire from any of the cylinders! It's so hard to find honest mechanics nowadays! But i am grateful for channels like this. I knew exactly what to look for and how to replace it! Thanks a million times over FordTechMakuloco!
Hey, anytime a Ford comes into our shop with a misfire and the coils aren’t melted and the PCM drivers aren’t fried, we are amazed. No matter what brand plugs are in it. ;) Autolight spark plugs have worked well for us so far.
In the past 22 years I have seen 3 defective ford spark plugs right out of the box and I personally have never seen a single bad Champion plug, lawnmower or otherwise. As well the Champions are physically stronger being machined out of one solid piece of steel. The Champions will not break off in the head so I will keep using the Champions on the 5.4s. As you stated the reason the spark plug failed is because it was loose.
My 2007 5.4v 3v with 120k miles had a misfire on cylinder 5. Pulled over and discovered the plug was loose. Torqued it down, and went on my way. 5,000 miles later, another misfire, same cylinder. Pulled the plug, and the electrode ground had broke off, not a good thing. I replaced the plug with Motorcraft, still had a misfire. Replaced the COP, still had a misfire. I was suspecting cylinder damage from the spark plug electrode ground. I did not have the means for a compression test, so sent the F350 off to the local ford dealer. I want to note the misfire would occur within one mile of start up, and a definite loss of power immediately upon start up. It also took two seconds to start the truck typically took one second. Ford dealer had the truck for six weeks trying to find the problem. Yes, six weeks. The replaced the spark plug, COP, fuel injector, and ran a compression test. They could not figure it out, and said I might need to replace the PCM. I said no, and I picked up the truck. I read 100 pages of threads on Modular V8 forums looking for clues. Found where a guy posted carbon issues might cause the plug to not seat right. I bought a scope, and looked at the spark plugs seat, threads, and top of piston. Did not see anything that could help clarify the issue, but the piston did look black. Bought a Champion plug, it has a very different design than the Motorcraft, More threads, beefier nut, bigger surface where the plug meets the head, and an old traditional electrode ground. Decided it was worth a try. Removed the Motorcraft plug, and sprayed about 1/3 of a can of carb cleaner into the spark plug hole. Let the cleaner sit for about one minute. STARTED THE TRUCK UP WITH THE SPARK PLUG MISSING, SO WHATEVER CAME LOOSE FROM THE CARB SPRAY CAME HOPEFULLY CAME OUT THE SPARK PLUG HOLE. Had a fire extinguisher handy if needed. Let the truck run for about 30 seconds, and shut it off. I should also note I had the cable to the COP disconnected, to reduce a spark risk to the carb cleaner, fuel going into the cylinder. Installed the Champion plug. Truck started right up. Went around the block, no loss of power. Checked toe code reader, no codes. Decided to go to Home Depot with the truck, which is over a major mountain, with a speed limit of 65 mph. No power issues, no misfires, no codes. Carbon build up? Motorcraft plugs not seating well after driving with a loose plug, where a Champion seated better? I don't know- all I know is my truck is back to normal. Truck now has 180k miles on it, with a Champion plug still in cylinder one.
Michael K I have a 2005 5.4 3v I too have a misfire and found #2 plug was loose. When I tried to install the identical autolite plug it seems the threads in the head are stripped. Before I go spending money on specialty tools and after reading your comment I'm going to try a champion plug. If the threads are longer I might get lucky. I'll comment if it works. Thanks
Ouch! I will always defer to your expertise since you have taught me so much BUT I have been running the single piece Champion 7989 plugs in my early build 2008 F150 since 2012. I initially had 1 misfire develop about 1 month later but swapped the plug and none since then. Did a complete timing component job with oil pump and phasers in 2017 and those Champions came out no problem. Installed a new set then and she has been purring like a kitten ever since. I run either NGK or Motorcraft in my other 5 cars but so far so good with Champion in my 08 F150.
I installed 1 piece champion plugs and get better gas mileage and runs better it’s 2006 f150 crew cab 5.4 3 valve why put 2 piece plug in so it may break later that’s only reason I installed champion 1piece plugs put them in 2009 no plug problem had no problems I do agree you’re supposed put champion in Chrysler and lawn tractors thanks for another awesome video thanks for sharing god bless
the "bad" plug on this engine wasn't in tight either..it leaked exhaust gases and no doubt allowed air in on the intake stroke, causing the lean misfire. I've never had problems with Champion plugs.
Lol the man has fixed more f-150s than you guys have seen on the road but OK. I've always gone all Motorcraft and not about to change.. Love my truck and won't blow my block with aftermarket garbage
Around 50 years ago I ran Champion plugs, UJ12Y's, in my Harley. I continued into my cars but I found over the years that the chances of getting a bad one seemed to increase with each passing year. The last time I used them I had 4 duds out of the 8 I had purchased. They simply would not fire. Today it's NGK across the boards. In over 10 years I have never had one single dud.
I work on mowers have seen a few nkg plugs that looks like new but would hardly run took the carb apart 3 times on one that was running bad thinking that was it put in a old autolight plug and it ran like new made me not like nkg any more lol
NGK is a very good brand and is the OEM on most Japanese makes as well as the Ford/Mazda 2.3 Duratec. Good brand. Champion used to be good decades ago but got bought out a few years ago and quality has gone down, unfortunately.
Mechanics use the Champion plugs thinking since they are one piece that they won't break off when being removed. The problem is that they still can break in half and no one makes a removal kit like they do for the factory plugs. I've had to create my own kit to remove broken Champion plugs. Warming engine and using an impact gun to remove OE plugs I very seldom break any off.
@@kirtxpress yes, I've had several break. The unthreaded tip can still seize up and break the hex off the spark plugs. The first time it happened was not a fun day, had to get very creative to pull the broken part out.
@@greggcarter8296 wow that's crazy. I started using them after my first plug change at 100K and 5 of the 8 ford broke. Im on my 3 set now at 317,000 miles and no problems getting them out
Thank you for explaining the people that Ford Motor Company does not know how to number their cylinders. An interesting thing you can do with those 5.4 3 valve engines, because they have such small pressure passages for the cam phasers. Run about 6 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil or about a week before you do an oil change run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it for a week before you change oil. That will keep those passages clear and save that engine from failing. Cuz it doesn't matter how many times you change the cam phasers, they're not getting oil pressure they're not going to work.
I use NGK PLUGS, WIRES, ECT.. ON MY 97 Grand. Jeep 4.0, hell I've been using NGK since the 80's even in my 60's Camaro's. But I just bought Mercury Montego Premier 2007 with the 3.0, 6 speed with the non CVT TRANS. 167,000 miles on it for $300. Front subframe had 2 silver dollar size rust holes right above the exhaust tunnel. The lady was going to junk it because of that. Welded in 1/4 plate steel over the whole tunnel subframe. I'm not a Ford guy but from what I hear on the Ford forums is USE FORD FACTORY PARTS, LIKE YOU SAID. So I guess I'm going that route with plugs & coils when needed or other parts. Just joined your channel & I AM VERY IMPRESSED BY YOUR SKILLS, SIR. I want to change the Trans. fluid in it & flush the cooling system before winter, then I'll be set, THANKS AGAIN for assuring I use Ford Factory parts. Henry from N.E. PA.
@@garryr yup got that too! when I have to do it I do it 🔥! I don't want to mess around for my labor of money! done my way fast and profitable! Fams will work on hot days! lol. cheers mate!
Same thing goes for glow plugs in Ford diesel engines. Ford & Behru (who as I understand make the Ford oem plugs) work perfectly and Champion is like the kiss of death.
I’m not a mechanic but since the spark plugs have a calibrated electrode gap I guess you have to be careful not to hit them during installation, right? Even little details like blowing all the debris out of the spark plug well before replacement show that you’re an experienced technician 👍
Some spark plugs are "gapped" from the factory to your vehicle engine, they can be adjusted slightly and should be checked before installation. You have to be very careful not to drop the spark plug into the hole as the it might get damaged/gap closed. Also the ceramic insulator can crack during installation. It is good practice to blow out any debris before removing the spark plug, you don't want dirt or small pebbles to fall into the combustion chamber.
NGK best ND second Autolite Third Bosch too dam expensive performance lasts a few months then they just feel normal and Champion well not even lawnmowers want those
I have learned over 40 years that champion works best in lawn mowers, weed trimmers, chain saws and such, they are a straight magneto system, no coil, ngk works best in Japanese vehicles , Bosch works best in European vehicles, autolite or motorcraft work best in American vehicles, and I believe the denso plug is a damn good all around plug, I certainly agree on that one, I'm doing a job right now on a knocking 2006, 5.4. Now that you mention it, some people dont like my outside the box theories but dang man, I'm going denso in this Ford,
Bravex has really cheap coils for 50-70dlls for 8 pack ive had em for 5 years never had a problem. I was short on money so bought em just to get by i was expecting for em to go bad within a year but they're holding up allright, i messaged the company before the warranty expired and they sent me 8 new ones, ford coils are better but it is what it is.
If I were the customer I would go for the plugs and Ford coils, Cheaper, in the long run, to keep everything running as well as you can. Those aftermarket coils put the Cat and possibly the ECU at risk... Lots of good advice here.
Champions can be a good choice. Just watch for easily cracked ceramics from dropping or abuse. I use the old champion pressure tester if I suspect a cracked plug internally.
Great video. You are an excellent diagnostician and an even better communicator. I just subscribed. I own three trucks with 5.4L, one with 6.8L and one with 7.3L gas. So glad I found you.
great video. Having similar issue with my 2008 ford expedition. It was misfiring on multiple cylinders. Changed out my spark plugs and coils. Now it's only marking a misfire on cylinder 4. I swapped coils with cylinder 4 and 1 and still reading PO304 PD. Need to figure this out so it will pass my smog inspection. And get rid of this car. Too many issues with ignition and spark plugs breaking.
I had a 99 f350 with the v10 engine,,ran good but i decided it was ready for a tune up at about 80,000 miles,,,made the mistake of getting cop's and plugs off e-bay,,,,they were way cheaper than ford or even a parts store,,,,,they didnt last but a few months and the misfires started ,,,,,,before it was over i had replaced c o p and plug out,,,,hard lesson learned the hard way,,💰💰💰💵💸💸💸💸💸
Just want to mention, I also have seen a pile of bad aftermarket ignition coils for ford modular engines. I always end up switching them back to used oem coils with new boots. The ones with the clear epoxy top and that little chip exposed are the worst!
I like the honesty too I heard you you said “no thanks if I’m going to fix it I will fix it right “I like that , I would trust you with my car . Lol. i witness your good work .
Changed the plugs. Still did it. Pull the coils and cleaned up the connection between the spring and coil . Problem fixed. There was alot of corrosion between the spring and where the spring sits on the metal pin on coil.
Mr. Loco. I just removed 8 E3 spark plugs from my 08 Navigator because I had a misfire. Bought it a month ago and the seller told he just changed the plugs and I wouldn’t have to worry for a long time. The last plug I pulled looked like someone bit the end off. It failed completely. I put in a new set of Motorcraft and it runs as it should. What would cause that to happen and by some miracle it seems that no engine damage occurred. Next, I’m going to save up a few bucks and get all new coils.
I like this video,lack of spark plug torque = high resistance. Very common I always replace the ignition coil. Aftermarket parts not recommended. I can hear when these are loose.
You my friend I love your videos! real world problems handle like a pro that you are! Your input is taken with lots of inspiration! thank you for sharing bro!
I can't get a plug out. It's not original, changed back in 2015. 2005 5.4l 3v expedition. I've changed the others no problem. But one just spins and never comes out. I finally gave up and just tightened it back down, and it runs ok. Why can I spin it and spin it and it just won't come out? I've pit plies on the end of the plug and pulled with everything I've got. Won't budge. But, I can still tighten it down. I only want to change it because of intermittent misfire under load, classic coil or plug. Already changed coil.
I am a firm believer in buying the right OEM parts for my vehicles if at all possible. Learned a valuable lesson with my '05 F150 with a 5.4L V8. I bought a cheap set and it did not last long. Only 23K miles and I found myself having to replace them. But make sure you get what you pay for because the fake ones are out there. I replaced my cheap set this time with Motorcraft plugs/coils, and to my surprise, i again had a misfire. Found i indeed had been shipped 4 of 8 plugs that were fakes. It's a thing, apparently. There is good information online that shows you what to look for. And to rub a little salt in the wound I found that a ground electrode "strap" on one of these counterfeit Motorcraft plugs had broken off and I guess was sucked out the exhaust valve. Could not believe it ! Luckily, the truck runs great, so I dodged a bullet on that one. I learned that you must spend the extra money on plugs, coils, and several other parts because it pays off in the long run. Just make sure your OEM parts are legit! Lesson learned. And thank you for this video!
Good video. Funny title! The only things I use Champion plugs on are Chrysler products and lawn mowers, and I will note that they seem to work quite well in those applications. I will not use them anywhere else unless it's some sort of weird emergency.
I had a misfire on 2 the other day... 09 5.4. Luckily it was the coil. Bought 8 and replaced the one. Seems good. I'll keep the rest and swap them as they fail. Not looking forward to swapping 4 and 8
I wish you lived near me in VA. I have a 2000 7.3 runs strong with 0ver 300,000. Need the turbo riser gasket changed I think it's leaking. Time for a good look over by an intelligent mechanic as you.
I did a pre test on a d100 and it passed with the factory champion plugs. The customer asked for Autolite and when I did the tune up and retested, it failed. After some quick deduction, I stuck the old champion plugs back in it and it passed! From that day on, I prefer to use the factory recommended plugs on all vehicles now. Bosch plugs do the same thing. I have gotten misfire codes from them.... All of that development really does work... In all of my off road stuff I run NGK irridium and always will until they present an issue. Be careful comdemming other peoples work as you will get sued and may lose even if you are right....
This is my experience, champion plugs are good for lawnmowers and weed trimmers, ngk for Japanese vehicles, Bosch for European vehicles, and autolite or motorcraft for American vehicles, I cant explain it, but that's my 40 years experience
I just bought a new set of factory plugs for my '10 Escape Hybrid based on this video. Mine have never been changed in 11 years and I have a slight misfire when the engine is cold.
If it's the Mazda built 4 you have to be concerned about a valve/head issue for minor misfires. If the plugs and coils didn't fix it do a compression and a leakdown test.
I have a Honda 3.5 engine and I was going to change plugs and asked a Pro tech I trust what ones I should get, He said OE only they were NGK $12 each, all other aftermarket brands were $6 each, he said after a short time the Aftermarket plugs will fail, I bought the OE ones have had no problems, searched out spark plug issues on that engine and foundd tons of I bought the $6 plugs and have lots of problems, Sometimes you don't save money by saving money
I had a AZ duracrap coil catch on fire and short out a 2016 Versa after finding the secret fuse box and changing all the coils with oem it still got random misfires maybe ECM or burn in the harness somewhere....
When I was repairing locomotives, it always pissed me off when the first traction motor brush I inspected was loose.. because I knew I would have to check all 96 of them.
Some quick math on Amazon - the dude saved about $100 on the set of cheap coils vs Mastercraft, and $20-30 on spark plugs. Less than $150 -- a cheap price to pay for your truck running like garbage for weeks, multiple days at the shop, etc. Buy once, cry once.
Good job mate, you definitely know what you’re doing…….!!! If you ever come to Melbourne Australia for a holiday, I’ll pay you a Cashie to do a timing job on my 5.4 …..!!!! I’ve already got the Melling high-volume high-pressure oil pump from Amazon…….!!
This is probably the type of person to walk into the parts store and ask for the cheapest or maybe hire shade tree guy. I understand times are tight, but it doesn’t cost that much more to use quality parts or service and could actually be cheaper long term. Saving a few bucks is not worth the risk of trashing your catalytic converters.
Those people make me laugh, use the absolute cheapest parts possible and have no idea what they are doing and then will make comments like "ford sucks"
The champion spark plugs actually cost more than the ford plug. The reason for the champion plug is because they are a 1pc spark plug, unlike the Motorcraft plugs that are 2pc. and tend to break off in the cylinder head. Sounds the who ever installed the plugs didn't tighten them properly. Still good information
Great video, my 2008 5.4 has the issue between 40-50mph in 4th gear where you slowly accelerate. I will replace the plugs and coil packs. There is no codes on the cheap OBD readers and I don't have the awesome tool that you do. Thanks!!
A friend of mine laughed at me when I purchased my 3v spark plugs and replacement coil at the Ford dealership. From the dealership; I’m purchasing OEM non counterfeit parts. As for Chumpion spark plugs; I tried using them in my drag racing days in my 1970 Camaro. Had nothing but misfire issues with new Chumpion plus. Switched back to AC plugs and seldom ever had a problem.
I can attest that Champions do belong in Chryslers.....but I wouldn't put them in my lawn mower....I like my lawnmower. I had a 99' Caravan 4-cylinder that had misfires immediately after doing a 100K service, which included some "premium" something-or-other sparkplugs. Installed some basic, copper Champions and it ran perfectly for another 100K miles afterwards. At the 200K service, I didn't make the same mistake.
When I was young I raced MX. we would get bad champions right ought of the box regularly. We quit using them. I got older and started re building old harleys, same thing. Even in my boat motes, same thing. They show fire, but won’t fire under compression. I haven’t had a champion plug in many years now. Funny thing is , I know guys that claim they’ve never had an issue with them. I know if they ever wet foul, they’re toast, where others will light off and clean themselves, champion won’t. Auto lite, ngk, denso, Bosch, ive had excellent results with. Even the yard equipment gets different plugs when brand new, sure cut down on the staring headaches.
When my 2006 5.4 plugs were changed at 130,000 miles, 2000 miles later it blew the number 1’plug, the guy changed it out and told me that’s normally a sign of a bad ECM. Well I didn’t believe him and a month later the ECM went out so that’s something to keep an eye on.
Someone put Bosch in my 4.6. Those are also Garbage. Not made for Fords at all. Fomoco is the only thing that operates as designed for Fords. I had several codes when I bought my truck. Gave it a tune up, cleaned the throttle body replaced the gaskets. I put OE back into and my 04 4.6 runs like a brand new truck. NO more codes. Now….on to the 5.4 I just bought. This one may be a bit more involved but we shall see what I come up with. Thanks for the videos!!!
Hi FTM, can you make a video dedicated to scan tools, such as the one(s) you use and or recommendations, if there is low budget hi resolution interface options for personal use, not sure if you have done this before, If so link pls. All your vids are spot on
I to am a ford machine guy and I have to admit that Most of the repair videos you show gives me a better shot at repairing my fords . Thank you Makuloco for your Guidance...👍
Sold thousands of trucks over a 30 year period. Cant think of any engine I hated more than this one. This engine and the 6.0 power stroke diesel about broke me. The funny thing is that now I'm retired I'm driving a Ford.
Any issue on these things is a new motor. Well after you check the plugs, & coils. If there issues after plugs & coils the synchro under the valve cover is messed up, you could replace the camshaft, but it’s oil driven, & oil passageways are undersized on these motors, so it’s just cheaper to just drop a new motor in it. Heck get a 5.3 Vortec motor, swap it out w an Alison, & it’s been way better.
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Hey Makuloco question are the spark plugs and coils the same part number for the 2005 f150 4.6 L? Thanks for all the info that you share helps a lot. Greeting from Arizona.
So basically use a ford coil on number 2. I actually have a 2007 with an aftermarket engine and transmission... same dang problem. But about a year ago I had no choice but to put a ford plug and coil on number two and NO ISSUES AFTER THAT.
@@thedavidahamm8898 Make sure ALL cylinders have the right spark plugs and coils. No problems.
@@armandocarriedo9354 I have a 2004 Ford f150 5.4. 3v and the plugs are a diferent part number in the 4.6 than the 5.4. They look almost identical but the part numbers are different. He actually has done several videos on plug replacement including one that explains the diference.
Great channel very informative but I have an issue it's an 07 5.4 with a tick not the phaser. The tick is on the passenger side if the RPM's get up like 3 grand it begins to run rough and weak you can cut it off let it sit and start it back up runs fine until it's in overdrive in a pull then it has a hard skip. Help please
Why can't I find a mechanic as knowledgeable and professional as you.
You can't afford him
@@yzrippin What a stupid comment, "YZ Rippin" lmfao.
Why can you read and fix your own stuff?
@@utahbones3094 For the same reason your grammar isn't good enough to formulate the question you wanted to ask.
Well the primary answer is that people who would’ve gone into the repair business back in the 60s and 70s are no longer doing so, and people who were in the business and were good have left because the pay was so low, and now shops are scrambling to get young people to go into the business who really don’t have the aptitude for it. Once in a while you’re going to find somebody like this gentleman who owns his own repair shop and sets his own prices and is his own boss and that’s where you’re going to find the people with the most talent today.
As my high school auto shop teacher once said of Champion spark plugs: "Some people swear by 'em and others swear at 'em."
You're better off using OEM parts in a Ford 100% of the time... Use motorcraft spark plugs and you'll have no problem. Also on your coil overs instead of buying new ones replace the springs and boots on the original ones and it's like brand new coil overs 😊
@@cassiemarie70 I use Motorcraft parts exclusively on my three Ford vehicles-- except for oil.
I can say I did a complete timing set coils oil pump spark plugs water pump and alternator on my moms 2006 Expedition about 3 years ago I used all ford parts except the high volume meling oil pump. I also replaced all injectors with Ford ones. The car Had 130k miles on it when I did the work on it. It now has 156k miles and It has zero problems and runs like a dream. I also converted it to full synthetic Motorcraft 5W30 and to be honest it never has had a problem since. Thanks for your expertise in this realm. I love the 5.4L 3v Triton
Hey I just want you to know how grateful we are to have you in the TH-cam Community to help everyone with Fords! I have worked on cars for most of my life and you teach me things about Ford's I never really knew. I mostly worked on General Motors products. Great video thank you very much!
Thanks to Brian and his channel for giving us less experienced mechanics the courage to install new plugs and coils in our fords. I have a 13 expedition I just tuned up thanks to his videos.
It took me 2 years to figure out the reason I kept burning spark plugs on random cylinders.
seams like 25 ft/lbs is too much torque for a spark plug in an aluminum head, but that much torque cured my problems.
Thanks for the video as it confirmed my suspicions.
“If i’m gonna fix it, i’m gonna fix it right.” I love it. That’s why i watch your vids. If i owned a ford i would drive from colorado to let you work on it.
And you will fix it again. lol. I would say good luck mate! cheers 🍻
I'm impressed, you're the first tech that I've seen use compressed air to clear the debris from the well!
We were taught to do just that in high school auto shop in the 70's. Not just plug wells, but any area of the engine compartment before opening up any component under the hood. As well as brake slave cylinders, live axles, trans/transfers.... Good practice. Who needs to have anything unwanted falling into the works.
First day with my 09 F350 I changed plugs/cops, oil/filt etc... I couldn't even get the plug socket on 2 cylinders, so much dirt in there i couldn't even see the plugs. Blowing out the area before disassembly is a priority, specially in wells like in our 5.4l heads. I think I have a pic somewhere.
I'm a fan of using OE spark plugs in everything but I have installed many sets of Champions in three valves and had no problems. At least the Champions do not come out in two pieces.
Man, I wish I could find a mechanic here in SoCal that knows his crap like you do.
I work at ford in parts and let me just start by saying I watch all ur videos cuz they always helped me in some sort of way. Also lots of customers come in and mention I watch you on TH-cam and I’ll be like oh me too he gets down lol. Keep up the great videos and knowledge coming
I've broken a spark plug before in a head. My solution was to JB weld the broken part of the plug back on the remaining bit. It dried on so hard that I was able to get the plug out.
I have a 2006 5.4 3valve with MSD coils and one piece Champions that have been in for 85k, 185k total miles. Runs fantastic, knock on wood 😉
I bought a '05 F-150 from a small mechanic shop outside of town. The mechanic that works on the cars before they sell them said he pulled a few of the plugs out and said they were good so he didn't replace them. The truck had 112,000 miles on it at the time!
He was full of shit! At about 140,000 miles I started having lots of random misfire problems from multiple cylinders. I decided to go all in and replace all of the plugs and coils. I'm glad i did. The plugs were the original shit plugs from Ford! They LITERALLY had a .25in gap in them!!! There was no electrode left on them. I ended up breaking 4 out of 8 getting them out but it was no problem with the extractor tool from Lisle tools!
The engine runs so much better now! Plenty of power and acceleration and not single misfire from any of the cylinders!
It's so hard to find honest mechanics nowadays! But i am grateful for channels like this. I knew exactly what to look for and how to replace it! Thanks a million times over FordTechMakuloco!
Hey, anytime a Ford comes into our shop with a misfire and the coils aren’t melted and the PCM drivers aren’t fried, we are amazed. No matter what brand plugs are in it. ;)
Autolight spark plugs have worked well for us so far.
In the past 22 years I have seen 3 defective ford spark plugs right out of the box and I personally have never seen a single bad Champion plug, lawnmower or otherwise. As well the Champions are physically stronger being machined out of one solid piece of steel. The Champions will not break off in the head so I will keep using the Champions on the 5.4s. As you stated the reason the spark plug failed is because it was loose.
Champion is a lawn mower plug sorry man so as it's out of light I wouldn't use them in my weed eater
I’m changing my plugs, last person put in champions. And yes they will break off in the head, first hand experience.
My 2007 5.4v 3v with 120k miles had a misfire on cylinder 5. Pulled over and discovered the plug was loose. Torqued it down, and went on my way. 5,000 miles later, another misfire, same cylinder. Pulled the plug, and the electrode ground had broke off, not a good thing. I replaced the plug with Motorcraft, still had a misfire. Replaced the COP, still had a misfire. I was suspecting cylinder damage from the spark plug electrode ground. I did not have the means for a compression test, so sent the F350 off to the local ford dealer.
I want to note the misfire would occur within one mile of start up, and a definite loss of power immediately upon start up. It also took two seconds to start the truck typically took one second.
Ford dealer had the truck for six weeks trying to find the problem. Yes, six weeks. The replaced the spark plug, COP, fuel injector, and ran a compression test. They could not figure it out, and said I might need to replace the PCM. I said no, and I picked up the truck.
I read 100 pages of threads on Modular V8 forums looking for clues. Found where a guy posted carbon issues might cause the plug to not seat right. I bought a scope, and looked at the spark plugs seat, threads, and top of piston. Did not see anything that could help clarify the issue, but the piston did look black.
Bought a Champion plug, it has a very different design than the Motorcraft, More threads, beefier nut, bigger surface where the plug meets the head, and an old traditional electrode ground. Decided it was worth a try.
Removed the Motorcraft plug, and sprayed about 1/3 of a can of carb cleaner into the spark plug hole. Let the cleaner sit for about one minute. STARTED THE TRUCK UP WITH THE SPARK PLUG MISSING, SO WHATEVER CAME LOOSE FROM THE CARB SPRAY CAME HOPEFULLY CAME OUT THE SPARK PLUG HOLE. Had a fire extinguisher handy if needed. Let the truck run for about 30 seconds, and shut it off. I should also note I had the cable to the COP disconnected, to reduce a spark risk to the carb cleaner, fuel going into the cylinder.
Installed the Champion plug. Truck started right up. Went around the block, no loss of power. Checked toe code reader, no codes. Decided to go to Home Depot with the truck, which is over a major mountain, with a speed limit of 65 mph. No power issues, no misfires, no codes.
Carbon build up? Motorcraft plugs not seating well after driving with a loose plug, where a Champion seated better? I don't know- all I know is my truck is back to normal. Truck now has 180k miles on it, with a Champion plug still in cylinder one.
Michael K I have a 2005 5.4 3v I too have a misfire and found #2 plug was loose. When I tried to install the identical autolite plug it seems the threads in the head are stripped. Before I go spending money on specialty tools and after reading your comment I'm going to try a champion plug. If the threads are longer I might get lucky. I'll comment if it works. Thanks
Wow, that power balance is cool! Same with relative compression! #5 looks like it's next!
Ouch! I will always defer to your expertise since you have taught me so much BUT I have been running the single piece Champion 7989 plugs in my early build 2008 F150 since 2012. I initially had 1 misfire develop about 1 month later but swapped the plug and none since then. Did a complete timing component job with oil pump and phasers in 2017 and those Champions came out no problem. Installed a new set then and she has been purring like a kitten ever since. I run either NGK or Motorcraft in my other 5 cars but so far so good with Champion in my 08 F150.
I installed 1 piece champion plugs and get better gas mileage and runs better it’s 2006 f150 crew cab 5.4 3 valve why put 2 piece plug in so it may break later that’s only reason I installed champion 1piece plugs put them in 2009 no plug problem had no problems I do agree you’re supposed put champion in Chrysler and lawn tractors thanks for another awesome video thanks for sharing god bless
@@rayarnold8275 from my understanding, Motorcraft are no longer 2 piece plugs.
The problem was not the champion plug in my opinion but I’m a dodge man. The plug was under torqued
the "bad" plug on this engine wasn't in tight either..it leaked exhaust gases and no doubt allowed air in on the intake stroke, causing the lean misfire. I've never had problems with Champion plugs.
Lol the man has fixed more f-150s than you guys have seen on the road but OK. I've always gone all Motorcraft and not about to change.. Love my truck and won't blow my block with aftermarket garbage
Around 50 years ago I ran Champion plugs, UJ12Y's, in my Harley. I continued into my cars but I found over the years that the chances of getting a bad one seemed to increase with each passing year. The last time I used them I had 4 duds out of the 8 I had purchased. They simply would not fire. Today it's NGK across the boards. In over 10 years I have never had one single dud.
I work on mowers have seen a few nkg plugs that looks like new but would hardly run took the carb apart 3 times on one that was running bad thinking that was it put in a old autolight plug and it ran like new made me not like nkg any more lol
NGK is a very good brand and is the OEM on most Japanese makes as well as the Ford/Mazda 2.3 Duratec. Good brand. Champion used to be good decades ago but got bought out a few years ago and quality has gone down, unfortunately.
Mechanics use the Champion plugs thinking since they are one piece that they won't break off when being removed. The problem is that they still can break in half and no one makes a removal kit like they do for the factory plugs. I've had to create my own kit to remove broken Champion plugs. Warming engine and using an impact gun to remove OE plugs I very seldom break any off.
Have you had a champion 1 piece break off? I took a old one and clamped in a vice just to see and couldn't break one.
@@kirtxpress yes, I've had several break. The unthreaded tip can still seize up and break the hex off the spark plugs. The first time it happened was not a fun day, had to get very creative to pull the broken part out.
@@greggcarter8296 wow that's crazy. I started using them after my first plug change at 100K and 5 of the 8 ford broke. Im on my 3 set now at 317,000 miles and no problems getting them out
Thank you for explaining the people that Ford Motor Company does not know how to number their cylinders.
An interesting thing you can do with those 5.4 3 valve engines, because they have such small pressure passages for the cam phasers. Run about 6 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil or about a week before you do an oil change run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it for a week before you change oil. That will keep those passages clear and save that engine from failing. Cuz it doesn't matter how many times you change the cam phasers, they're not getting oil pressure they're not going to work.
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I always learn something new every time i watch your vids , thanks for the knowledge
I use NGK PLUGS, WIRES, ECT.. ON MY 97 Grand. Jeep 4.0, hell I've been using NGK since the 80's even in my 60's Camaro's. But I just bought Mercury Montego Premier 2007 with the 3.0, 6 speed with the non CVT TRANS. 167,000 miles on it for $300. Front subframe had 2 silver dollar size rust holes right above the exhaust tunnel. The lady was going to junk it because of that. Welded in 1/4 plate steel over the whole tunnel subframe.
I'm not a Ford guy but from what I hear on the Ford forums is USE FORD FACTORY PARTS, LIKE YOU SAID. So I guess I'm going that route with plugs & coils when needed or other parts. Just joined your channel & I AM VERY IMPRESSED BY YOUR SKILLS, SIR.
I want to change the Trans. fluid in it & flush the cooling system before winter, then I'll be set, THANKS AGAIN for assuring I use Ford Factory parts. Henry from N.E. PA.
Great to watch a pro in action! I don't understand, though, why the compression was good if the plug was loose.
Great question.. Hopefully FordTechMakuloco will answer it.
The loss is way too little for it to register.
trick for removing these spark plugs is do it hot and snap it loose with a small impact gun. works perfectly
I just accept that they will likely break and use the tool on the ones that do. It works like a charm and I don't work on a hot engine.
@@garryr yup got that too! when I have to do it I do it 🔥! I don't want to mess around for my labor of money! done my way fast and profitable! Fams will work on hot days! lol. cheers mate!
Absolutely right ! Those coil are fake ! Champion plug are not the right plug for, but it was a loose plug and bad coil.
Same thing goes for glow plugs in Ford diesel engines. Ford & Behru (who as I understand make the Ford oem plugs) work perfectly and Champion is like the kiss of death.
Was told that years ago when I first started working on cars... Nothing but original plugs in the vehicle...
I’m not a mechanic but since the spark plugs have a calibrated electrode gap I guess you have to be careful not to hit them during installation, right? Even little details like blowing all the debris out of the spark plug well before replacement show that you’re an experienced technician 👍
Some spark plugs are "gapped" from the factory to your vehicle engine, they can be adjusted slightly and should be checked before installation. You have to be very careful not to drop the spark plug into the hole as the it might get damaged/gap closed. Also the ceramic insulator can crack during installation. It is good practice to blow out any debris before removing the spark plug, you don't want dirt or small pebbles to fall into the combustion chamber.
Thanks for the confirmation on OEM parts. Especially with the modern, highly engineered engines and transmissions.
BTW. Your shop is great!
Brian says- I fixed his truck misfire. I'm gonna go get me a coffee with the truck. Right on.
Why not you are already on the test drive right?
I'd get upset if you didn't test drive mine before you gave it back.
AND, it was NOT Starbucks! Bravo, Brian.
#5 looks like it could have been becoming a problem. Hopefully the customer agreed to new Ford plugs, boots and coils.
@@FordTechMakuloco Right on brother.
I played with numerous brands of spark plugs and I determined the plugs that lasted longer/durability were NGK or Denso, even on domestic vehicles.
NGK best ND second Autolite Third Bosch too dam expensive performance lasts a few months then they just feel normal and Champion well not even lawnmowers want those
I have learned over 40 years that champion works best in lawn mowers, weed trimmers, chain saws and such, they are a straight magneto system, no coil, ngk works best in Japanese vehicles , Bosch works best in European vehicles, autolite or motorcraft work best in American vehicles, and I believe the denso plug is a damn good all around plug, I certainly agree on that one, I'm doing a job right now on a knocking 2006, 5.4. Now that you mention it, some people dont like my outside the box theories but dang man, I'm going denso in this Ford,
On any vehicle I only recommend oem plugs and ignition parts as long as they’re available.
Agreed
Very true
Bravex has really cheap coils for 50-70dlls for 8 pack ive had em for 5 years never had a problem. I was short on money so bought em just to get by i was expecting for em to go bad within a year but they're holding up allright, i messaged the company before the warranty expired and they sent me 8 new ones, ford coils are better but it is what it is.
If I were the customer I would go for the plugs and Ford coils, Cheaper, in the long run, to keep everything running as well as you can. Those aftermarket coils put the Cat and possibly the ECU at risk... Lots of good advice here.
Champions can be a good choice. Just watch for easily cracked ceramics from dropping or abuse. I use the old champion pressure tester if I suspect a cracked plug internally.
My friends father (Ford Master Tech) told us the same thing years ago (way back in the 90's), Champion plugs are for small engines and Chryslers.
Great video. You are an excellent diagnostician and an even better communicator. I just subscribed. I own three trucks with 5.4L, one with 6.8L and one with 7.3L gas. So glad I found you.
great video. Having similar issue with my 2008 ford expedition. It was misfiring on multiple cylinders. Changed out my spark plugs and coils. Now it's only marking a misfire on cylinder 4. I swapped coils with cylinder 4 and 1 and still reading PO304 PD. Need to figure this out so it will pass my smog inspection. And get rid of this car. Too many issues with ignition and spark plugs breaking.
My 4-stroke 50cc scooter runs just fine using Champion spark plugs, then again.. it is basically a lawn mower engine so I guess you're right in a way.
I had a 99 f350 with the v10 engine,,ran good but i decided it was ready for a tune up at about 80,000 miles,,,made the mistake of getting cop's and plugs off e-bay,,,,they were way cheaper than ford or even a parts store,,,,,they didnt last but a few months and the misfires started ,,,,,,before it was over i had replaced c o p and plug out,,,,hard lesson learned the hard way,,💰💰💰💵💸💸💸💸💸
I did run some champion spark plugs on my 5.4 and they are the worst
Back to motorcraft!
Just want to mention, I also have seen a pile of bad aftermarket ignition coils for ford modular engines. I always end up switching them back to used oem coils with new boots. The ones with the clear epoxy top and that little chip exposed are the worst!
I like the honesty too I heard you you said “no thanks if I’m going to fix it I will fix it right “I like that , I would trust you with my car . Lol. i witness your good work .
I’ve seen this multiple times on Fords,I’ve replaced my share of them over the years. I’ve been an auto tech now for just shy of 38 years.
Changed the plugs. Still did it. Pull the coils and cleaned up the connection between the spring and coil . Problem fixed. There was alot of corrosion between the spring and where the spring sits on the metal pin on coil.
Thanks again professor, my 206 is doing the same replace the no. 8 coil but now I've got to replace the plug ,
I only use FORD or MOTORCRAFT anymore, use ROCKAUTO or FORDPARTS GIANT, this cheap SOB now will pay more again.
Autolites are an excellent alternative if Ford plugs aren't available.
Good video and diagnostics. I'm a Cummins Diesel guy but Champion didn't install a loose plug.
Yup and I clearly stated that was the cause of the failure here and not the plug itself.
Your an awesome ford tech. Learning alot from your videos.
Mr. Loco. I just removed 8 E3 spark plugs from my 08 Navigator because I had a misfire. Bought it a month ago and the seller told he just changed the plugs and I wouldn’t have to worry for a long time. The last plug I pulled looked like someone bit the end off. It failed completely. I put in a new set of Motorcraft and it runs as it should. What would cause that to happen and by some miracle it seems that no engine damage occurred. Next, I’m going to save up a few bucks and get all new coils.
Normally it is because the plugs were not torqued correctly.
I'm no expert on ford's but having owned several over the last 20 years I do know that: always use oem plugs and oem coils.
I like this video,lack of spark plug torque = high resistance. Very common I always replace the ignition coil. Aftermarket parts not recommended. I can hear when these are loose.
Those look like the coils I put on my 5.4, they're Edelbrock brand so I thought they'd be an ok replacement for oem
You my friend I love your videos! real world problems handle like a pro that you are! Your input is taken with lots of inspiration! thank you for sharing bro!
I can't get a plug out. It's not original, changed back in 2015. 2005 5.4l 3v expedition. I've changed the others no problem. But one just spins and never comes out. I finally gave up and just tightened it back down, and it runs ok. Why can I spin it and spin it and it just won't come out? I've pit plies on the end of the plug and pulled with everything I've got. Won't budge. But, I can still tighten it down. I only want to change it because of intermittent misfire under load, classic coil or plug. Already changed coil.
I am a firm believer in buying the right OEM parts for my vehicles if at all possible. Learned a valuable lesson with my '05 F150 with a 5.4L V8. I bought a cheap set and it did not last long. Only 23K miles and I found myself having to replace them. But make sure you get what you pay for because the fake ones are out there. I replaced my cheap set this time with Motorcraft plugs/coils, and to my surprise, i again had a misfire. Found i indeed had been shipped 4 of 8 plugs that were fakes. It's a thing, apparently. There is good information online that shows you what to look for. And to rub a little salt in the wound I found that a ground electrode "strap" on one of these counterfeit Motorcraft plugs had broken off and I guess was sucked out the exhaust valve. Could not believe it ! Luckily, the truck runs great, so I dodged a bullet on that one. I learned that you must spend the extra money on plugs, coils, and several other parts because it pays off in the long run. Just make sure your OEM parts are legit! Lesson learned.
And thank you for this video!
Found your channel just browsing.... Bro your amazing!!! Im surprised you didn't diagnose it before the hood was up. 👍👍👍
I learned in my early 20’s that Fords and champions don’t mix. I’ve come to rely on motor raft plugs for all my fords.
No Champions in MY equipment, ever!
Never owned a Mopar but sounds like a good fit.
Good video. Funny title! The only things I use Champion plugs on are Chrysler products and lawn mowers, and I will note that they seem to work quite well in those applications. I will not use them anywhere else unless it's some sort of weird emergency.
I'm champions because of the solid build and the platinum tip. Standard plugs misfire after 40k miles especially up hill.
I had a misfire on 2 the other day... 09 5.4. Luckily it was the coil. Bought 8 and replaced the one. Seems good. I'll keep the rest and swap them as they fail. Not looking forward to swapping 4 and 8
I wish you lived near me in VA. I have a 2000 7.3 runs strong with 0ver 300,000. Need the turbo riser gasket changed I think it's leaking. Time for a good look over by an intelligent mechanic as you.
I did a pre test on a d100 and it passed with the factory champion plugs. The customer asked for Autolite and when I did the tune up and retested, it failed. After some quick deduction, I stuck the old champion plugs back in it and it passed! From that day on, I prefer to use the factory recommended plugs on all vehicles now. Bosch plugs do the same thing. I have gotten misfire codes from them.... All of that development really does work... In all of my off road stuff I run NGK irridium and always will until they present an issue. Be careful comdemming other peoples work as you will get sued and may lose even if you are right....
This is my experience, champion plugs are good for lawnmowers and weed trimmers, ngk for Japanese vehicles, Bosch for European vehicles, and autolite or motorcraft for American vehicles, I cant explain it, but that's my 40 years experience
BMW recommends NGK. Have a 2005 645Ci and I run NGK with Eldor coils. Bosch is garbage... Even mechanics don't even recommend Bosch.
I just bought a new set of factory plugs for my '10 Escape Hybrid based on this video. Mine have never been changed in 11 years and I have a slight misfire when the engine is cold.
If it's the Mazda built 4 you have to be concerned about a valve/head issue for minor misfires. If the plugs and coils didn't fix it do a compression and a leakdown test.
I have a Honda 3.5 engine and I was going to change plugs and asked a Pro tech I trust what ones I should get, He said OE only they were NGK $12 each, all other aftermarket brands were $6 each, he said after a short time the Aftermarket plugs will fail, I bought the OE ones have had no problems, searched out spark plug issues on that engine and foundd tons of I bought the $6 plugs and have lots of problems, Sometimes you don't save money by saving money
I use to work in a auto parts store in the 80s and 90s champion and a/c plugs where bad out of one case I found only a hand few that was good
I had a AZ duracrap coil catch on fire and short out a 2016 Versa after finding the secret fuse box and changing all the coils with oem it still got random misfires maybe ECM or burn in the harness somewhere....
Every video you make is a treat for me ! Keep up the good work 👍.
I just found a 5/8 spark plug on cylinder 3 which I couldn’t get it off because I need a thin wall socket 😑 but the other 7 had 9/16 plugs
My father always used Champions in his Chrysler and it always ran well.
When I was repairing locomotives, it always pissed me off when the first traction motor brush I inspected was loose.. because I knew I would have to check all 96 of them.
Some quick math on Amazon - the dude saved about $100 on the set of cheap coils vs Mastercraft, and $20-30 on spark plugs. Less than $150 -- a cheap price to pay for your truck running like garbage for weeks, multiple days at the shop, etc. Buy once, cry once.
I noticed that there was no dielectric grease in the boot, is there a reason for the boot not having it applied?
Not sure why he didn't but the new Ford coils have grease already applied to the tip.
Good job mate, you definitely know what you’re doing…….!!!
If you ever come to Melbourne Australia for a holiday, I’ll pay you a Cashie to do a timing job on my 5.4 …..!!!!
I’ve already got the Melling high-volume high-pressure oil pump from Amazon…….!!
I agree 110% about what you said about ingnition coils!!
I recently used NGK spark plugs but my Original Ford coils were good.
Just a standard spark plug change no problems As of yet
This is probably the type of person to walk into the parts store and ask for the cheapest or maybe hire shade tree guy. I understand times are tight, but it doesn’t cost that much more to use quality parts or service and could actually be cheaper long term. Saving a few bucks is not worth the risk of trashing your catalytic converters.
Those people make me laugh, use the absolute cheapest parts possible and have no idea what they are doing and then will make comments like "ford sucks"
The champion spark plugs actually cost more than the ford plug. The reason for the champion plug is because they are a 1pc spark plug, unlike the Motorcraft plugs that are 2pc. and tend to break off in the cylinder head. Sounds the who ever installed the plugs didn't tighten them properly. Still good information
Only thing i do. Lil different is anti seize on the plug and dielectric grease on the coil pack and coil plug.
Great video, my 2008 5.4 has the issue between 40-50mph in 4th gear where you slowly accelerate. I will replace the plugs and coil packs. There is no codes on the cheap OBD readers and I don't have the awesome tool that you do. Thanks!!
A friend of mine laughed at me when I purchased my 3v spark plugs and replacement coil at the Ford dealership.
From the dealership; I’m purchasing OEM non counterfeit parts.
As for Chumpion spark plugs; I tried using them in my drag racing days in my 1970 Camaro. Had nothing but misfire issues with new Chumpion plus.
Switched back to AC plugs and seldom ever had a problem.
I can attest that Champions do belong in Chryslers.....but I wouldn't put them in my lawn mower....I like my lawnmower.
I had a 99' Caravan 4-cylinder that had misfires immediately after doing a 100K service, which included some "premium" something-or-other sparkplugs. Installed some basic, copper Champions and it ran perfectly for another 100K miles afterwards. At the 200K service, I didn't make the same mistake.
Densos are the only aftermarket coil I trust.
NGK #1
When I was young I raced MX. we would get bad champions right ought of the box regularly. We quit using them.
I got older and started re building old harleys, same thing. Even in my boat motes, same thing. They show fire, but won’t fire under compression. I haven’t had a champion plug in many years now. Funny thing is , I know guys that claim they’ve never had an issue with them. I know if they ever wet foul, they’re toast, where others will light off and clean themselves, champion won’t.
Auto lite, ngk, denso, Bosch, ive had excellent results with. Even the yard equipment gets different plugs when brand new, sure cut down on the staring headaches.
When my 2006 5.4 plugs were changed at 130,000 miles, 2000 miles later it blew the number 1’plug, the guy changed it out and told me that’s normally a sign of a bad ECM. Well I didn’t believe him and a month later the ECM went out so that’s something to keep an eye on.
I ran ford plugs and aftermarket coils that performEd far better than the stock
Someone put Bosch in my 4.6. Those are also Garbage. Not made for Fords at all. Fomoco is the only thing that operates as designed for Fords. I had several codes when I bought my truck. Gave it a tune up, cleaned the throttle body replaced the gaskets. I put OE back into and my 04 4.6 runs like a brand new truck. NO more codes. Now….on to the 5.4 I just bought. This one may be a bit more involved but we shall see what I come up with. Thanks for the videos!!!
Bosch has always been the worst when it comes to Fords.
Hi FTM, can you make a video dedicated to scan tools, such as the one(s) you use and or recommendations, if there is low budget hi resolution interface options for personal use, not sure if you have done this before, If so link pls. All your vids are spot on
Even as a kid with our dirt bikes we learned to chuck the champion plugs, junk pure crap, just saying motor on.
Champion actually makes one of the better spark plugs for aircraft. I have replaced some that cost $200 a piece.
Another great video! When will people learn to use the Ford parts?
Wow, literally just say down from throwing in new coils, and champion spark plugs, open you tube, and this is the title I see. Great.
I to am a ford machine guy and I have to admit that Most of the repair videos you show gives me a better shot at repairing my fords .
Thank you Makuloco for your Guidance...👍
Literally every forum on the internet says to use motorcraft plugs.
Sold thousands of trucks over a 30 year period. Cant think of any engine I hated more than this one. This engine and the 6.0 power stroke diesel about broke me. The funny thing is that now I'm retired I'm driving a Ford.
I quit buying fords because they create work for their shops .they know better .
Yeah I hate those cheap coils,I just had one I got from O'reillys for a customer, dead out of the box,lol.
Any issue on these things is a new motor. Well after you check the plugs, & coils. If there issues after plugs & coils the synchro under the valve cover is messed up, you could replace the camshaft, but it’s oil driven, & oil passageways are undersized on these motors, so it’s just cheaper to just drop a new motor in it. Heck get a 5.3 Vortec motor, swap it out w an Alison, & it’s been way better.