These are the Tools I Recommend: OTC Compression Tester- amzn.to/2DZPJ53 2004-2008 5.4L 3v Triton 14mm Compression Test Adapter- amzn.to/2GT3pQg 2008-2014 5.4L 3v Triton 12mm Compression Test Adapter- amzn.to/3hp9YGU Forscan is free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
We need him in California. I don’t trust any mechanics at all here unless they are friends or friends of friends, other than that they will replace everything but the issue 😂
Ever since I got my '06 Expedition I've been doing all the services by myself, the previous owner doesn't knows anything about cars or mechanic issues so he sent it to the dealer for every service for 12 years! Until he decided to sell it to me, I'm the second owner and man, I've been following all your video tutorials related to the engine on my SUV and I've saved a lot of money! Nothing serious or anything to be worried about, the engine has less than 100K miles on it and it runs beautiful, not a single issue even to this day and for me is just taking care of the regular maintenance but with your help and knowledge this is even easier! Thanks a lot for all your help and precise instructions!
I'm not a mechanic but I love this guy's channel and I can participate in conversations about 5.4 3-valve motors. I drove a 99 F150 5.4L Triton V8 for 19 years, then a 2018 F150 2.7EB and now a 2020 F150 2.7EB. Fantastic channel and work! ps. In high school a drove a 78 or 79 E250 with a 460 in it. Replaced the water pump myself on that. Talk about no room to work.
I worked for ford for a couple of decades and am the only guy in my area that fixes the 3v pigs! Everyone else throw parts at them. Relative compression and power balance should always get you off to a good start. I have an ids also and it helps a ton especially if you need to do the updates which we always check on every vehicle. Most of us car guys can hear that uneven cranking every time. And know it's a compression loss. Keep up the good videos!
Another fine video sir. I am the Ford Whisperer I am today because of your channel. I have learned volumes from you over the last several years. So for that, thank you Brian!! 👍👍
My favorite test, no if buts or maybe. Used it a lot in my Mechanical workshops. Good to see you using basic old school stuff. All said and done, it's suck, squeeze, bang and blow. Regards Steve.
Good time to demo a boroscope camera’s cabilities. You might even be lucky enough to see a piece of ceramic or burnt valve. Then there’s always the cylinder wall and piston top. 5 minutes to help ‘visualize’ the big picture - pun intended. Great diagnostic process👍
Wish I could drop my truck off at your shop for a full refresh and once over. So tempted to get a new one but reluctant to let my old one go. Keep up the good work
I recently did a timing job on a 2007 f150 with the 5.4. After the repair it had a fluctuating idle, checked and found that it had broken a spring on the #5 exhaust valve.
Another great video! I did the entire timing chains, Phasers, VCT, Oil pump etc from your videos and my 5.4 3V purrs like a kitten now. I bought one of your shirts cuz I feel like I'm on the team now! God Bless you!
After going through a nightmare with a 4.6L, I discovered that the intake valve was "cupped" which made the valve stem too long. This would not allow the valve to close completely. A quick fix is to grind off about .50" of the valve stem. Either that, or remove the head and replace the valve. This valve became deformed due to a misfire that created a lot of heat. An intake valve should not be getting that hot since there is air flowing over it all the time. After the compression was restored, the cylinder is firing normally and the valve should not deform any longer. It should last. The only way to get this cylinder to seal, with air pressure in it, was to remove the rocker arm. After measuring other heads, to see how tall the valve stem was, I determined that there was around 50 to 60 thousands of an inch more valve stem on that intake valve. I ground it down, with magnets and rags surrounding it. Put the rocker arm back on, and had compression. Happy Dance!!!
I have the 4.6 doch Intech; I just did a timing job sprockets and all and it runs great on startup. 3 to 5 minutes later it starts ticking and after a little while sounds like a dry bearing. Thanks to your videos I will be checking all my lash adjusters and rollers., But I think I have an oil circulation issue.
Great instructional video, thank you! That broken ceramic insulator rates right up their at the top of the rare events on the weirdo meter, makes a guy wonder of a close visual inspection of the plugs prior to install would have caught the problem. Boy would the consumers out there benefit if auto repair shop owners and their technicians studied the full range of repair videos you have produced.
It would be nice to see if a piece of ceramic is holding the exhaust valve open and/or if the valve and seat is damaged. There are a ton of cheap boroscopes with all types of attachments now. =Should be able to get a picture of that valve. Crappy quality control = shit like this will happen. Your diagnostics for this were right on the money and you did an excellent job of displaying the true situation. This truck is probably a simple valve fix = not that bad considering your diagnostics pointed directly to issue and you didn't waste time getting to it. All the plugs are garbage and I would replace them for sure.
Awesome video, thanks for putting out such high quality vids, cuz of you I was able to change my plugs, even when 4&8 broke. Next upgrading oil pump timing chains and all that good stuff
Great camera work also, you show great detail on what you are doing. Thank you for taking time to make these videos, because I know that puts extra work on you.
Hello Brian, I’m hoping you can help me. I’ve been working so hard on my truck to get it all fixed up after I paid a shop to do the timing and they used nothing but cheap parts and all my timing components started to fail less than 3mo after the repair. I watched your video series on the timing job and I want to say thank you for all you do to help us 5.4 3v guys. The problem I’m having is a misfire on cylinder 7. I timed the truck perfectly following your video and using the OTC tool. After I finished the timing job, everything was good until after about a day when I went up north to go snowboarding and the next day after I got home, I could feel the truck having a slight miss. I’ve replaced the spark plug, I’ve replaced the coil, I’ve replaced the fuel injector, I’ve done a compression test and all of my cylinders are around 195psi. What else could be causing a misfire on just the 1 cylinder? I checked my roller followers since I replaced all the lifters and followers with new ford performance ones with the updated design. I replaced the oil pump with the Melling 340HV, I installed brand new ford phasers, I used the metal chain tensioners out of the Mustang GT which I did modify the ratchet by filing down 2 teeth to allow it to ease tension when the truck is off. The misfire seems to go away after the truck gets to operating temp which made me think it could be a piston ring but no oil present on plug and the compression is nearly the same as all my other cylinders. Please help!😭
I have an 06 f150 5.4 with 94k miles. I’ve been religiously using full synthetic oil and babying it it’s whole life. It runs like a champ so far. Changed plugs at 60k. Should I have anything done to it before it decides to self destruct. Thanks for the awesome information you’re giving us.
As always, you my man are awesome! Thanks for taking the time to post these videos. You've helped so SO many people out with these vids. Always learning something new from you!
Dang. Looks like the guy kept up with his oil changes well by the way it is so clean. Sadly, that's not enough to make those junky 3V motors last. Or maybe happily, since I paid for my second house by working on them in the shop. Perspective I reckon.
This video hits very close to home Recently Iv had a tick that Iv been trying to figure out what it is . Long story short it was a loose plug Which were new plugs from about 6k mikes ago Which I paid my mechanic to do Since I was afraid of breaking them He got them all out without breaking With all the little ticks and noises Iv fixed it was hard to pin point the tick but looking back it got worse or started after the new plugs Well I guess one of the plugs was loose for awhile It seemed to run the same strength wise So I finally found the loose plug and tightens it Power went down Then I inspected the plug to find the metal u shaped ground piece missing So I vacumned out the cylinder and put in a new plug Power went back up to what feels like normal Never got a code or anything yet ! What are your thoughts on the metal piece ? My mechanic said it probably passed through the exhaust I guess I have no clue if I vaccumned it out but I guess it would have been passed through some time ago
Just for kicks, I'd try to look inside with a bore scope to see if there's debris holding the valve open. Then, I'd strike the valve stem several times with a brass drift and hammer to see if the porcelain could be shattered into smaller pieces. If the valve isn't bent, this might work to blow the pieces out into the exhaust. Who knows? It may fix it. Looks like the truck is rusting away, so it's still worth trying and if this didn't work, no loss.
@@FordTechMakuloco I replaced plugs and coils about 6 weeks ago....with Motorcraft plugs...3 weeks later had a misfire on one cylinder...mechanic pulled plug and the metal tip completely broke off. He replaced the plug and it ran fine for about another 3 weeks and now i have another "random" misfire he says and he doesn't know the cause other than thinks it needs timing chain kit now. Do you think the broken off plug tip could have done something similar to one of my valves ? what's the chances it blew out without damaging anything ? TYVM !!
Mind-blowing that such a small device could cause so much engine damage 😬. Was it a poor quality spark plug? If serviced by a dealer would that be covered under warranty?
Thank you Sir for all your vids! Helped me out numerous times! I have an 01 F150 5.4 2v with 346K on the clock. Kept up on the maintenance always. Still runs strong!
Thanks for doing this, I've had a persistent Cyl 2 and 7 misfire on my 3v 6.8 -- it can be a real pain. I didn't know the diagnostic tool had those menus, need to find someone to look mine up for me.
Hey buddy, I got called to look at an 08 f150 5.4 3v today the truck is ROUGH!!! In comparison to my 03 it has been to 2 mechanics supposedly in the last couple weeks I was told ahead of time it has fuel which I confirmed 40psi , injectors are receiving power(I didn't confirm that il get to why in a second ) it has no power going to coils , previous mechanic said it had 42 codes some tranny most engine but they was deleted so I don't have them,my initial thought was the pcm had to have an issue either receiving power/ground or sending it out fuses and relays confirmed good , once again I don't confirm power to the pcm from the fuses/relay BECAUSE when I arrived first thing I did was turn the key and it sounds like the starter only has resistance on 2 cylinders it was WAY out of Ballance so I'm assuming the timing chain is in the oil pan ,one mechanic already changed crank and cam sensors they say everything works but no power to coils I did confirm that I was only there for 20 minutes as a quick favor to the guy that's supposed to be fixing it he said he would pull the valve covers and timing cover in a couple days but based on the limited he said she said info I have provided here would you assume timing let go, no one can get ahold of the owner at the moment to ask if it was rattling and making noise before hand ,all they know is he was driving just before he was walking,lol
Can't believe all these problems with the 5.4... I own 2 2008 E350 super duty vans purchased with 100k on them and they now have 604k and 569k and have never been opened up for repairs! Plugs,coils, filters, belts, and Mobil 1 synthetic oil.. that's it! Still running 2020! Original Fuel pumps!!! Original starters!!
Sure would have been nice if you had access to the exhaust valve, where you could have chucked the valve up in a drill motor, and spun it against the seat to see if the compression improved. I've got a 2003 5.4 in an E-350 van. It developed a misfire not long after purchase. Turned out to be the dreaded plastic intake manifold leak. Ford was smoking crack with the $480 replacement manifold, so it got an aftermarket replacement. No it wasn't a Dorman. It's been fine since, but in the back of my mind, just waiting for the Modular Team to strike disaster. What was wrong with the Windsor engine? They were reliable with the exception of the nylon timing gear.
I’m a ford guy, but ford had a lot of problems with these kind of engines from 2004 to 2010 with the 5.4 liter. I have a 2000 Ford F-150 with the 5.4 liter but nothing to compare with those years. Mine it’s been a very reliable engine, I think from 1997 to 2003 they were excellent engines till this day and mine is proof of that.
Same her bubba, 03 f150 4.6 2v iv drove basically every day since may of 2006 got over 400000 miles and still going as my primary work truck which really means daily driver in my world
2003 ford expedition 5.4 2v ive got 200,000 and still going strong,fordmakuloco has helped me with the maintenance on this vehicle this guy is a FORD GENIUS
I'm having the absolute worst time trying to diagnose a misfire and I'm also getting a code saying that my driver side catalytic converter is clogged. when I hit it with a mallet I can hear shit inside the cat. but the misfire is on cylinder 3! I've replaced plugs coils and every time under load going up a hill at around 60 or 70 miles an hour I get hesitation it feels like my transmission drops out and I get a flashing check engine light for the same cylinder and p0430. I cant keep wasting money on parts in these hard times and my edge scanner only says misfire detected on #3 no real data. My trucks also been getting real hot and im sure closed my new thermostat and had coolant leaking from the upper hose onto the housing yesterday at only 210°. Im so lost this truck sucks man. If u could maybe talk me thru some more options that would be awesome. Its a 05 f150 5.4 4x4. Cheaply rebuilt at 200k with 230k now stock cats
Keep up these awesome videos! For the 5.4 3V they are bittersweet. I own a 2006 F250, haven't had any issues with it, but at least if I do I will be more educated after had watched all the 5.4 vids. ;)
back in 2002 Ford engineers came together to their meeting room and said: We have this good reliable V8. engine . 5.4L and 4.6L! What can we do to make them less reliable?)) and the 3rd valve was added to each cylinder for the production year of-2004 and up!
Such a great channel. I have a 2012 Navigator with about 230k miles. Has the 5.4l 3v and it's starting to sound like a diesel :) I know I need the timing kit / phasers job done. Job is about $2,500 locally from a reputable non-dealer shop. Trying to decide if it's worth it...I suspect it is, since the vehicle is great otherwise.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it. They said all parts are motorcraft. This is a shop I have used for many many years and they have a local reputation as being very reputable. But I'm hard pressed to think there's anyone who's opinion I trust more than yours. I know the kit you link to doesn't actually say Motorcraft, it says Ford. But are they the same thing? Unfortunately the kit you link to is out of stock or unavailable.
There is no way they are replacing all the components with Ford parts including the roller followers which are very common failure your model year. Plus if they are not installing the Melling high volume oil pump then there is no reason to even do the job. Dealer price is generally over $4k for this job, over $3k for an independent shop and under $3k at a my shop. Let me know how it turns out.
@@FordTechMakuloco Unfortunately this reply was posted after the work was completed. They did tell me they inspected the roller followers but none looked worn or failed. They did confirm all the parts were genuine Ford, and it's a reputable shop I have used many times, I feel they're being truthful. At any rate the engine is now MUCH quieter and sounds very healthy. Now I'm starting to chase down some sort of trans problem (or maybe an ignition coil I hope). Thanks for taking the time to reply to my comment, I really appreciate it.
Cool video 😎 i just noticed today that my Snap On Solus Edge doesn't have the power balance option test🙄it was a 05' Expedition...Snap On gets on my nerves🙄
@FordTechMakuloco just FYI, that ignition coil brand design is Duralast from Autozone. They started adding that new design recently on some of their electrical components. Just for future reference.
I know you can't properly diagnose it but what is you best guess of the problem if I lost compression on #1 and #4 at the same time. Being told I need a new engine but it's got only 100,000 miles on it. Doesn't make sense to me that valves on 2 cylinders would stick at the same time and I would think it would be 2 cylinders next to each other if it was a head gasket.
I just purchased a 2005 to tow around my jet ski and haul 17:26 materials from home depot etc. salesman said the old man mechanic that went through the truck said he couldn’t reach the spark plug but that’s all that’s wrong with it and maybe a new coil Pack. Currently the truck is at another dealership being diagnosing. So upset at myself for thinking this used sales guy was honest. I’m hoping it’s not a broken piece of spark plug that has caused similar damage. 🤦
Great video very informative. I have a question though. What if you didn't find the broken piece of the spark plug and everything looked normal including the valve terrain?
There should be class action lawsuit against Ford's faulty spark plugs. I have seen two bad right out of the box. These were not bootleg and not cheap. One destroyed a motor and the other was intermittent and took days to diagnose. This was the new updated plug too.
@@AmosMosesJr The way ford designed the spark plugs should of actually been a lawsuit indeed. Like no engine should be bad due to poor engineering. All of these generation of F150 run away.
I saw a champion plug do that once from being loose and overheating. In that case it did ot wreck the valve but it wrecked the rings instead... even worse. They got off easy compared to that.
Those damn plugs...the engineers that designed this engine should be fired..i believe that's a mazda design..not sure..i hope Brian shows the repair t know it won't be cheap..thanks for showing this..also i wonder if someone may have dropped the plug ? Cheers everyone 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Since you're, apparently, an engineering expert - why don't YOU give us a complete engineering analysis of what is wrong with the engine ? This is not an engine problem, it's a spark plug problem. Without knowing if the plug was original Motorcraft or a Chinese knock-off, whether the plug was dropped prior to installation, or any other problem that could damage the insulator, damning the entire engine and the engineers is a knee-jerk reaction by someone who's not afraid to parade their ignorance in public. Congratulations...
Man that thing is crusty in the fender openings. Sheesh !!! I think this is one of the reasons Ford went to aluminum boxes, but they probably dont want to admit that.
More than likely the plug was damaged during or prior to being installed. At any rate either the cab will have to be removed or the engine to remove the cylinder head.
Great video on how to correctly diagnose a trouble code. Why wouldn't you use a rubber mallet to bounce the exhaust valve open a little and try to loosen and free the debris that's keeping it from closing, while blowing the air? Ty, subd.
I’ve had my VCT’s repaired at the dealership. Oil seepage coming from the back of both valve covers. The seepage was observed and noted however it was expressed to me that such is not uncommon. A few oils changes and spark plug/tune up service later I began seeing more oil building up. While looking around with my flashlight I saw oil il in my spark plug wells. Dealership reinstalled the gasket/Valve covers however a month later the oil seepage is back. What would cause the valve covers to leak? Likelihood of this being failed parts vs improperly installed? Thank you.
Hey there @FordTechMakuloco love the content! Question: I have a ‘12 single cab f150 2wd 5.0 133K miles 3.55 rear end and last week it was loaded up to max trailer weight.. was squatting pretty good but still had a little bit of travel.. i was in tow haul mode.. when i would take off from a stop or when i would accelerate more when going up hill the truck would shudder/vibrate the more i stuck my foot down and would stop as soon as i leveled out or got to my desired speed and started cruising.. any ideas what it might be? This is the first time it’s ever done it and never does it when it’s unloaded or lightly loaded.. this was the first time i was ever at max or maybe even slightly above max depending how much the trailer weighed (it was a rental)
That sucks. I own a 07 with a 5.4 3V. All these videos are good but man it sure does make me sad. I like my V8 Expedition. I hope I don’t have these kinds of issues.
Despite these videos I trust this motor a lot. I have a 07 5.4 3v with 150000 and always use motor craft oils and filters , still runs perfect. Last week I drove my truck 2000 miles in two days, towing a 5000lb boat for a thousand of that up and down hills for 14 hours. Truck pulled like champ ,I was impressed. I love the low end tourque of this motor.
Good evening I have a 06 f150 roush I have been working on it has miss fires at operating temp idle I looked at mode 6 data and power balance and it seems normal at idle but then comes back. I have replaced all the coils, all the plug which fixed it for about 5 mins before it got warm again all motor craft parts. I stuck my Autel inspection scope in cylinder 2 and it looks to me like the top ring broke and it is scraping the cylinder wall. What’s more is this truck has a good compression using the tester on cylinder 2 which was 185 cylinder 1 was 230 psi. Have you seen anything like this no error for vct and the phasers are bouncing at zero then move upon pedal input and return. No tapping or noise from top end. The crank has some endplay which I believe is to much after watching your video on it. When this truck drives it’s ok until you give it 30% or more pedal then it starts misfiring like crazy and popping cats just were replaced as well any ideas and can I message you personally?
And in order to remove the head on the passenger side, the engine has to come-out. Should go ahead and get a remanufactured engine if he is planning to keep it for a while.
That's a shame for us. I wonder if it was a poor plug change that caused it. Broke the porcelain and didn't bother to retrieve it. The old porcelain bounced around and damaged the new plug putting more porcelain in the cylinder. Also, gotta inspect new plugs...I have had new plugs with cracks in the porcelain right out of the box.
These are the Tools I Recommend:
OTC Compression Tester-
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2004-2008 5.4L 3v Triton 14mm Compression Test Adapter-
amzn.to/2GT3pQg
2008-2014 5.4L 3v Triton 12mm Compression Test Adapter-
amzn.to/3hp9YGU
Forscan is free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Love the paid version of Forscan for android!
What do think about the melling roller rockers and lash adjusters are they trust worthy for the 5.4 3v eng..
2006 lincoln navigator with obd code P0354. Changed voi, spark plug and still misfire. Has plenty of spark. Any ideas
My cylinder 2 says one count misfire, so how often could it be occurring?
¹¹
Ford owners in your area are so lucky to have you! Your a Ford Tech. Magician
yes there are i give anything g to have a mechanic like this in Texas
We need him in California. I don’t trust any mechanics at all here unless they are friends or friends of friends, other than that they will replace everything but the issue 😂
Ever since I got my '06 Expedition I've been doing all the services by myself, the previous owner doesn't knows anything about cars or mechanic issues so he sent it to the dealer for every service for 12 years! Until he decided to sell it to me, I'm the second owner and man, I've been following all your video tutorials related to the engine on my SUV and I've saved a lot of money! Nothing serious or anything to be worried about, the engine has less than 100K miles on it and it runs beautiful, not a single issue even to this day and for me is just taking care of the regular maintenance but with your help and knowledge this is even easier! Thanks a lot for all your help and precise instructions!
I'm not a mechanic but I love this guy's channel and I can participate in conversations about 5.4 3-valve motors. I drove a 99 F150 5.4L Triton V8 for 19 years, then a 2018 F150 2.7EB and now a 2020 F150 2.7EB. Fantastic channel and work! ps. In high school a drove a 78 or 79 E250 with a 460 in it. Replaced the water pump myself on that. Talk about no room to work.
I worked for ford for a couple of decades and am the only guy in my area that fixes the 3v pigs! Everyone else throw parts at them. Relative compression and power balance should always get you off to a good start. I have an ids also and it helps a ton especially if you need to do the updates which we always check on every vehicle. Most of us car guys can hear that uneven cranking every time. And know it's a compression loss. Keep up the good videos!
Some people swear by the 3v engines. Others swear at them.
Another fine video sir. I am the Ford Whisperer I am today because of your channel. I have learned volumes from you over the last several years. So for that, thank you Brian!! 👍👍
My favorite test, no if buts or maybe. Used it a lot in my Mechanical workshops. Good to see you using basic old school stuff.
All said and done, it's suck, squeeze, bang and blow.
Regards Steve.
Good time to demo a boroscope camera’s cabilities. You might even be lucky enough to see a piece of ceramic or burnt valve. Then there’s always the cylinder wall and piston top. 5 minutes to help ‘visualize’ the big picture - pun intended. Great diagnostic process👍
My 5.4 3 valve has 172K and counting with no issues. Great video as always
I want to tell you thank you for your videos. Your videos have helped me replace two engines, with no previous experience. So thank you! So much!
Wish you were here in Sacramento. Your not only very capable, your trustworthy. Hard if not impossible to find in this area!
Wish I could drop my truck off at your shop for a full refresh and once over. So tempted to get a new one but reluctant to let my old one go. Keep up the good work
I recently did a timing job on a 2007 f150 with the 5.4. After the repair it had a fluctuating idle, checked and found that it had broken a spring on the #5 exhaust valve.
Another great video!
I did the entire timing chains, Phasers, VCT, Oil pump etc from your videos and my 5.4 3V purrs like a kitten now.
I bought one of your shirts cuz I feel like I'm on the team now!
God Bless you!
After going through a nightmare with a 4.6L, I discovered that the intake valve was "cupped" which made the valve stem too long. This would not allow the valve to close completely. A quick fix is to grind off about .50" of the valve stem. Either that, or remove the head and replace the valve. This valve became deformed due to a misfire that created a lot of heat. An intake valve should not be getting that hot since there is air flowing over it all the time. After the compression was restored, the cylinder is firing normally and the valve should not deform any longer. It should last. The only way to get this cylinder to seal, with air pressure in it, was to remove the rocker arm. After measuring other heads, to see how tall the valve stem was, I determined that there was around 50 to 60 thousands of an inch more valve stem on that intake valve. I ground it down, with magnets and rags surrounding it. Put the rocker arm back on, and had compression. Happy Dance!!!
Diagnostics are what separate a mechanic from a parts-swapper.
I have the 4.6 doch Intech; I just did a timing job sprockets and all and it runs great on startup.
3 to 5 minutes later it starts ticking and after a little while sounds like a dry bearing.
Thanks to your videos I will be checking all my lash adjusters and rollers., But I think I have an oil circulation issue.
Before anything do a cylinder leakage test. Look for bubbles in the coolant listen for air escaping in the crankcase, intake, etc...
Great instructional video, thank you! That broken ceramic insulator rates right up their at the top of the rare events on the weirdo meter, makes a guy wonder of a close visual inspection of the plugs prior to install would have caught the problem. Boy would the consumers out there benefit if auto repair shop owners and their technicians studied the full range of repair videos you have produced.
It would be nice to see if a piece of ceramic is holding the exhaust valve open and/or if the valve and seat is damaged. There are a ton of cheap boroscopes with all types of attachments now. =Should be able to get a picture of that valve.
Crappy quality control = shit like this will happen.
Your diagnostics for this were right on the money and you did an excellent job of displaying the true situation. This truck is probably a simple valve fix = not that bad considering your diagnostics pointed directly to issue and you didn't waste time getting to it. All the plugs are garbage and I would replace them for sure.
Awesome video, thanks for putting out such high quality vids, cuz of you I was able to change my plugs, even when 4&8 broke. Next upgrading oil pump timing chains and all that good stuff
Another good video - I performed many cylinder leakage tests back in the day. This is great even good for piston aircraft engines.
Thanks Brian that was a great walk through on the diagnosis. Very thorough.
Great camera work also, you show great detail on what you are doing. Thank you for taking time to make these videos, because I know that puts extra work on you.
It's a bad Monday for someone right now
For sure.
His rear fenders are rusted out too.
Hello Brian, I’m hoping you can help me. I’ve been working so hard on my truck to get it all fixed up after I paid a shop to do the timing and they used nothing but cheap parts and all my timing components started to fail less than 3mo after the repair. I watched your video series on the timing job and I want to say thank you for all you do to help us 5.4 3v guys. The problem I’m having is a misfire on cylinder 7. I timed the truck perfectly following your video and using the OTC tool. After I finished the timing job, everything was good until after about a day when I went up north to go snowboarding and the next day after I got home, I could feel the truck having a slight miss. I’ve replaced the spark plug, I’ve replaced the coil, I’ve replaced the fuel injector, I’ve done a compression test and all of my cylinders are around 195psi. What else could be causing a misfire on just the 1 cylinder? I checked my roller followers since I replaced all the lifters and followers with new ford performance ones with the updated design. I replaced the oil pump with the Melling 340HV, I installed brand new ford phasers, I used the metal chain tensioners out of the Mustang GT which I did modify the ratchet by filing down 2 teeth to allow it to ease tension when the truck is off. The misfire seems to go away after the truck gets to operating temp which made me think it could be a piston ring but no oil present on plug and the compression is nearly the same as all my other cylinders. Please help!😭
I have an 06 f150 5.4 with 94k miles. I’ve been religiously using full synthetic oil and babying it it’s whole life. It runs like a champ so far. Changed plugs at 60k. Should I have anything done to it before it decides to self destruct. Thanks for the awesome information you’re giving us.
Thanks Brian for another great video, thats what I need to do to mine. "The air test"
As always, you my man are awesome! Thanks for taking the time to post these videos. You've helped so SO many people out with these vids. Always learning something new from you!
Dang. Looks like the guy kept up with his oil changes well by the way it is so clean. Sadly, that's not enough to make those junky 3V motors last. Or maybe happily, since I paid for my second house by working on them in the shop. Perspective I reckon.
This video hits very close to home Recently Iv had a tick that Iv been trying to figure out what it is . Long story short it was a loose plug Which were new plugs from about 6k mikes ago Which I paid my mechanic to do Since I was afraid of breaking them
He got them all out without breaking With all the little ticks and noises Iv fixed it was hard to pin point the tick but looking back it got worse or started after the new plugs Well I guess one of the plugs was loose for awhile It seemed to run the same strength wise So I finally found the loose plug and tightens it Power went down Then I inspected the plug to find the metal u shaped ground piece missing So I vacumned out the cylinder and put in a new plug Power went back up to what feels like normal Never got a code or anything yet ! What are your thoughts on the metal piece ? My mechanic said it probably passed through the exhaust I guess I have no clue if I vaccumned it out but I guess it would have been passed through some time ago
Great info I soon will be doing a timing kit on my 5.4 3v thanks to your videos, give us an update on that truck if you're fixing it..
Just for kicks, I'd try to look inside with a bore scope to see if there's debris holding the valve open. Then, I'd strike the valve stem several times with a brass drift and hammer to see if the porcelain could be shattered into smaller pieces. If the valve isn't bent, this might work to blow the pieces out into the exhaust. Who knows? It may fix it. Looks like the truck is rusting away, so it's still worth trying and if this didn't work, no loss.
Oh he’s been driving it like this for awhile now so it’s over.
@@FordTechMakuloco I replaced plugs and coils about 6 weeks ago....with Motorcraft plugs...3 weeks later had a misfire on one cylinder...mechanic pulled plug and the metal tip completely broke off. He replaced the plug and it ran fine for about another 3 weeks and now i have another "random" misfire he says and he doesn't know the cause other than thinks it needs timing chain kit now. Do you think the broken off plug tip could have done something similar to one of my valves ? what's the chances it blew out without damaging anything ? TYVM !!
Mind-blowing that such a small device could cause so much engine damage 😬. Was it a poor quality spark plug? If serviced by a dealer would that be covered under warranty?
Thank you Sir for all your vids! Helped me out numerous times!
I have an 01 F150 5.4 2v with 346K on the clock. Kept up on the maintenance always.
Still runs strong!
Same here,2003 expedition 5.4 2v 200,000 and still going
Wow
She still running? You gotta be at Almost 400k now eh?
Quality Diagnostic! Seem to be getting a bunch of those here lately.
5.4 is a boat anchor not surprising
Thanks for doing this, I've had a persistent Cyl 2 and 7 misfire on my 3v 6.8 -- it can be a real pain. I didn't know the diagnostic tool had those menus, need to find someone to look mine up for me.
Great diagnostic. Most guys would just throw a plug and coil at it.
And that is the problem with the automotive world today.
Hey buddy, I got called to look at an 08 f150 5.4 3v today the truck is ROUGH!!! In comparison to my 03 it has been to 2 mechanics supposedly in the last couple weeks I was told ahead of time it has fuel which I confirmed 40psi , injectors are receiving power(I didn't confirm that il get to why in a second ) it has no power going to coils , previous mechanic said it had 42 codes some tranny most engine but they was deleted so I don't have them,my initial thought was the pcm had to have an issue either receiving power/ground or sending it out fuses and relays confirmed good , once again I don't confirm power to the pcm from the fuses/relay BECAUSE when I arrived first thing I did was turn the key and it sounds like the starter only has resistance on 2 cylinders it was WAY out of Ballance so I'm assuming the timing chain is in the oil pan ,one mechanic already changed crank and cam sensors they say everything works but no power to coils I did confirm that I was only there for 20 minutes as a quick favor to the guy that's supposed to be fixing it he said he would pull the valve covers and timing cover in a couple days but based on the limited he said she said info I have provided here would you assume timing let go, no one can get ahold of the owner at the moment to ask if it was rattling and making noise before hand ,all they know is he was driving just before he was walking,lol
Can't believe all these problems with the 5.4... I own 2 2008 E350 super duty vans purchased with 100k on them and they now have 604k and 569k and have never been opened up for repairs! Plugs,coils, filters, belts, and Mobil 1 synthetic oil.. that's it! Still running 2020! Original Fuel pumps!!! Original starters!!
Sure would have been nice if you had access to the exhaust valve, where you could have chucked the valve up in a drill motor, and spun it against the seat to see if the compression improved.
I've got a 2003 5.4 in an E-350 van. It developed a misfire not long after purchase. Turned out to be the dreaded plastic intake manifold leak. Ford was smoking crack with the $480 replacement manifold, so it got an aftermarket replacement. No it wasn't a Dorman. It's been fine since, but in the back of my mind, just waiting for the Modular Team to strike disaster.
What was wrong with the Windsor engine? They were reliable with the exception of the nylon timing gear.
I’m a ford guy, but ford had a lot of problems with these kind of engines from 2004 to 2010 with the 5.4 liter. I have a 2000 Ford F-150 with the 5.4 liter but nothing to compare with those years. Mine it’s been a very reliable engine, I think from 1997 to 2003 they were excellent engines till this day and mine is proof of that.
Your 2000 5.4 is a 2 valve not a 3 valve
Same her bubba, 03 f150 4.6 2v iv drove basically every day since may of 2006 got over 400000 miles and still going as my primary work truck which really means daily driver in my world
2003 ford expedition 5.4 2v ive got 200,000 and still going strong,fordmakuloco has helped me with the maintenance on this vehicle this guy is a FORD GENIUS
4.6 2v with 265,000....20 years old and runs great.
Until the head gasket blows on the right bank lol
Very informative videos.
I learn quite a bit watching your channel.
Great diagnostic video. Very informative.
I'm having the absolute worst time trying to diagnose a misfire and I'm also getting a code saying that my driver side catalytic converter is clogged. when I hit it with a mallet I can hear shit inside the cat. but the misfire is on cylinder 3! I've replaced plugs coils and every time under load going up a hill at around 60 or 70 miles an hour I get hesitation it feels like my transmission drops out and I get a flashing check engine light for the same cylinder and p0430. I cant keep wasting money on parts in these hard times and my edge scanner only says misfire detected on #3 no real data. My trucks also been getting real hot and im sure closed my new thermostat and had coolant leaking from the upper hose onto the housing yesterday at only 210°. Im so lost this truck sucks man. If u could maybe talk me thru some more options that would be awesome. Its a 05 f150 5.4 4x4. Cheaply rebuilt at 200k with 230k now stock cats
Keep up these awesome videos! For the 5.4 3V they are bittersweet. I own a 2006 F250, haven't had any issues with it, but at least if I do I will be more educated after had watched all the 5.4 vids. ;)
Nice test technique. Will give that a try …
Excellent video. I really enjoy diagnostic videos
Awesome test example results!!! Thanks for the tutorial!!! You’re the best, Bro!!!
I need to take my truck to your shop asap.there is no good machanic here where I am at .
back in 2002 Ford engineers came together to their meeting room and said: We have this good reliable V8. engine . 5.4L and 4.6L! What can we do to make them less reliable?)) and the 3rd valve was added to each cylinder for the production year of-2004 and up!
Love your videos thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
If the customer goes ahead with the repair, it would be cool to see the damage to the valve/seat.
They are selling it.
Such a great channel. I have a 2012 Navigator with about 230k miles. Has the 5.4l 3v and it's starting to sound like a diesel :) I know I need the timing kit / phasers job done. Job is about $2,500 locally from a reputable non-dealer shop. Trying to decide if it's worth it...I suspect it is, since the vehicle is great otherwise.
Don't let them do it unless they use Ford parts otherwise you throwing money away. $2,500 seems too cheap.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it. They said all parts are motorcraft. This is a shop I have used for many many years and they have a local reputation as being very reputable. But I'm hard pressed to think there's anyone who's opinion I trust more than yours. I know the kit you link to doesn't actually say Motorcraft, it says Ford. But are they the same thing? Unfortunately the kit you link to is out of stock or unavailable.
@@FordTechMakuloco Well .. they swear up and down it's all genuine Ford parts, so I'm dropping it off Monday. I'll keep you posted :)
There is no way they are replacing all the components with Ford parts including the roller followers which are very common failure your model year. Plus if they are not installing the Melling high volume oil pump then there is no reason to even do the job. Dealer price is generally over $4k for this job, over $3k for an independent shop and under $3k at a my shop. Let me know how it turns out.
@@FordTechMakuloco Unfortunately this reply was posted after the work was completed. They did tell me they inspected the roller followers but none looked worn or failed. They did confirm all the parts were genuine Ford, and it's a reputable shop I have used many times, I feel they're being truthful. At any rate the engine is now MUCH quieter and sounds very healthy. Now I'm starting to chase down some sort of trans problem (or maybe an ignition coil I hope). Thanks for taking the time to reply to my comment, I really appreciate it.
Cool video 😎 i just noticed today that my Snap On Solus Edge doesn't have the power balance option test🙄it was a 05' Expedition...Snap On gets on my nerves🙄
makes a guy wonder what caused the plug failure. was it dropped? defective? detonation?
Great diagnostic tool though how do I put my hand on the same scanner and thanks for your video..
@FordTechMakuloco just FYI, that ignition coil brand design is Duralast from Autozone. They started adding that new design recently on some of their electrical components. Just for future reference.
Yeah I am not familiar with the aftermarket, its all ford here.
Hey B0$$! Long time no see. Again my most sincere thanks for the awesome videos.
You are very informative I love your channel
Riley excellent diagnose good job 👍
good. waiting for next the vlog to see the result thanks Brain.
Really good video on diagnostics, as usual. Thank you.
BTW I click on the ads to help you out.
Thanks!
FordTechMakuloco 💯🤠🍻
I know you can't properly diagnose it but what is you best guess of the problem if I lost compression on #1 and #4 at the same time. Being told I need a new engine but it's got only 100,000 miles on it. Doesn't make sense to me that valves on 2 cylinders would stick at the same time and I would think it would be 2 cylinders next to each other if it was a head gasket.
How do the 4.6 compare to the 5.4 is it a safer bet that a 4.6 isn’t gonna have near this many or any issues at all?
I just purchased a 2005 to tow around my jet ski and haul 17:26 materials from home depot etc. salesman said the old man mechanic that went through the truck said he couldn’t reach the spark plug but that’s all that’s wrong with it and maybe a new coil
Pack. Currently the truck is at another dealership being diagnosing. So upset at myself for thinking this used sales guy was honest. I’m hoping it’s not a broken piece of spark plug that has caused similar damage. 🤦
Excellent Diagnosis 😀😮😀
This guy is awesome thank you for your videos
Great video very informative. I have a question though. What if you didn't find the broken piece of the spark plug and everything looked normal including the valve terrain?
new spark plug failed like that? was it chinese bootleg Motorcraft part?
I would replace all the plugs assuming the engine is still good.
There should be class action lawsuit against Ford's faulty spark plugs. I have seen two bad right out of the box. These were not bootleg and not cheap. One destroyed a motor and the other was intermittent and took days to diagnose. This was the new updated plug too.
@@AmosMosesJr The way ford designed the spark plugs should of actually been a lawsuit indeed. Like no engine should be bad due to poor engineering. All of these generation of F150 run away.
Beast mode Brian
That's why I hate using the broken spark removal tool,leaves debris in the cylinder
Dude you are amazing, love your videos.
Awesome insight, definitely a learning experience.
I saw a champion plug do that once from being loose and overheating. In that case it did ot wreck the valve but it wrecked the rings instead... even worse. They got off easy compared to that.
Nice video. Looks like they could have changed the oil a bit more often.
Very interesting presentation, and nice walk through on the process. Enjoyed, cheers!
Absolutely a great video.
Those damn plugs...the engineers that designed this engine should be fired..i believe that's a mazda design..not sure..i hope Brian shows the repair t know it won't be cheap..thanks for showing this..also i wonder if someone may have dropped the plug ? Cheers everyone 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Since you're, apparently, an engineering expert - why don't YOU give us a complete engineering analysis of what is wrong with the engine ? This is not an engine problem, it's a spark plug problem. Without knowing if the plug was original Motorcraft or a Chinese knock-off, whether the plug was dropped prior to installation, or any other problem that could damage the insulator, damning the entire engine and the engineers is a knee-jerk reaction by someone who's not afraid to parade their ignorance in public. Congratulations...
Do they still use those stupid plugs in newer motors or abandoned them years back??
An Sv they stopped the 2 piece plugs after the issues started
Man that thing is crusty in the fender openings. Sheesh !!! I think this is one of the reasons Ford went to aluminum boxes, but they probably dont want to admit that.
I thought only South main auto used the wet finger test.... :)
It’s a good test!
I love the wet finger test on my exhaust. It’s the leaking that I could do without.
Funny. The only 2 mechanics I watch also. South main and Makuloco. Both great.
@@MrZoikel Eric the CarGuy's on the short list right? 👍
@@MrZoikel who? 🤣
More than likely the plug was damaged during or prior to being installed. At any rate either the cab will have to be removed or the engine to remove the cylinder head.
No need to pull the cab.
Where would you recommend sourcing a reman 5.4L 3 valve engine?
Great video on how to correctly diagnose a trouble code. Why wouldn't you use a rubber mallet to bounce the exhaust valve open a little and try to loosen and free the debris that's keeping it from closing, while blowing the air? Ty, subd.
The debris is gone (or still bouncing around in the cylinder. The valve is bent and not seating correctly.
I’ve had my VCT’s repaired at the dealership. Oil seepage coming from the back of both valve covers. The seepage was observed and noted however it was expressed to me that such is not uncommon. A few oils changes and spark plug/tune up service later I began seeing more oil building up. While looking around with my flashlight I saw oil il in my spark plug wells. Dealership reinstalled the gasket/Valve covers however a month later the oil seepage is back. What would cause the valve covers to leak? Likelihood of this being failed parts vs improperly installed? Thank you.
Hey there @FordTechMakuloco love the content! Question: I have a ‘12 single cab f150 2wd 5.0 133K miles 3.55 rear end and last week it was loaded up to max trailer weight.. was squatting pretty good but still had a little bit of travel.. i was in tow haul mode.. when i would take off from a stop or when i would accelerate more when going up hill the truck would shudder/vibrate the more i stuck my foot down and would stop as soon as i leveled out or got to my desired speed and started cruising.. any ideas what it might be? This is the first time it’s ever done it and never does it when it’s unloaded or lightly loaded.. this was the first time i was ever at max or maybe even slightly above max depending how much the trailer weighed (it was a rental)
That sucks. I own a 07 with a 5.4 3V. All these videos are good but man it sure does make me sad. I like my V8 Expedition. I hope I don’t have these kinds of issues.
I kinda feel with you having an 07 F150 86k+
Despite these videos I trust this motor a lot. I have a 07 5.4 3v with 150000 and always use motor craft oils and filters , still runs perfect. Last week I drove my truck 2000 miles in two days, towing a 5000lb boat for a thousand of that up and down hills for 14 hours. Truck pulled like champ ,I was impressed. I love the low end tourque of this motor.
Absolutely amazing job!
Good evening I have a 06 f150 roush I have been working on it has miss fires at operating temp idle I looked at mode 6 data and power balance and it seems normal at idle but then comes back. I have replaced all the coils, all the plug which fixed it for about 5 mins before it got warm again all motor craft parts.
I stuck my Autel inspection scope in cylinder 2 and it looks to me like the top ring broke and it is scraping the cylinder wall. What’s more is this truck has a good compression using the tester on cylinder 2 which was 185 cylinder 1 was 230 psi. Have you seen anything like this no error for vct and the phasers are bouncing at zero then move upon pedal input and return. No tapping or noise from top end. The crank has some endplay which I believe is to much after watching your video on it.
When this truck drives it’s ok until you give it 30% or more pedal then it starts misfiring like crazy and popping cats just were replaced as well any ideas and can I message you personally?
Excellent video Brian thankyou
U are So Awesome thank u so much for ur Time and everything U do!!! U are the Best Man. 😂
And in order to remove the head on the passenger side, the engine has to come-out. Should go ahead and get a remanufactured engine if he is planning to keep it for a while.
The Ford Dr. is in!
So did the owner say put it back together I'm selling it?
Yup
That's a shame for us. I wonder if it was a poor plug change that caused it. Broke the porcelain and didn't bother to retrieve it. The old porcelain bounced around and damaged the new plug putting more porcelain in the cylinder. Also, gotta inspect new plugs...I have had new plugs with cracks in the porcelain right out of the box.
Yeah it's sad that engine has practically made all of those F150s worthless.
Hope when he sells that disclaims the issue, yea right eh?
@@tmaq9726 "2006 Ford F150 5.4 4x4 for sale..... needs a little TLC but GREAT work truck or daily driver.!" 🤣😂
Denso...you wish...those are Duralast from Autozone coils
Lol
man its very rare to see a 5.4 at the dealer
Will this scan tool you're recommending do a Power Balance test also curious if it would do an ABS brake bleed
Makuloco keep the good work man nice one
What an excellent video!