Engine Won't Start - No Crank Diagnosis (Troubleshooting Starting System Issues)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to diagnose a no crank condition on a 1997 Honda Accord but the techniques shown here can be used on any vehicle.
A no crank means when the ignition switch is turned to the start position the starter doesn't crank the engine.
To troubleshoot this issue I cover battery testing with a load tester, solenoid trigger wire testing, and voltage drop testing with a multimeter on the power and ground side of the starter.
I also cover how a relay works, how the starter solenoid works, and explain what the neutral safety switch is and how it's incorporated into different start circuit designs.
Starter Replacement Video for this Accord:
• Honda Accord Starter R...
"Welcome To The Show" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma.
Nice job. We have been yanking hair out on a 94 Escort 1.8 starter issue. Since I dropped and cracked the solenoid, we R&R'd it with a new one, now we have intermittent starting,, almost like a bind up of the solenoid. When we rock the car, it will start. No shims in the original, and no bad sounds ever. I'll check for negative Voltage Drop. Thanks for the great vid
LOVE this dude! Some videos are so much fluff or SOOOO un-edited! He doesn't even have a helper and it still has great info and camera work. Thank you so much!
Wow... you truly are incredibly gifted. You know every name of every part of the car. Thank you for sharing such wonderful knowledge with simple ppl like myself. By far the most best explained video Ive seen yet.
I am impressed with the organization of your work and the choice of words to teach the lesson. awsome
Man, I hope your a teacher somewhere, that is the best instructional video I have ever seen. great job.
just want to say you made a great video I actually learned more from this video on testing/diagnosing a starter/ no crank than I did in my automotive class THANKS!!
Glad to help.
Thanks For Watching.
Best video ever. Thanks for taking the time to explain all the parts to this you did!
good videos i watched alot of them but i like to point out my starting issue on my 94 accord ex was a bad main ground wire exact starting issue no click no dimming of anything replaced it so far no problems back to old faithful keep up the vids u are helping lots of diy`ers
Eric Kelly where is this bad ground wire at Eric Kelly?
I just wanted to say, thank you
You saved me hundreds of dollars on repair.
Yeah sometimes overlooking simple things can lead you down the wrong diagnostic path. It happens to all of us.
Glad you figured it out before having to fork over money for a tow.
I tapped the starter with a hammer and now it's working again. So all other elements are working correctly.Thanks again for your input.
Definitely a bad starter. The most likely cause is worn brushes.
No telling when the brushes will lose contact again and it leave you stranded.
Excellent video! Everything is clearly and correctly explained. My car has been having trouble with the engine not rotating when attempting to start but it appears to be the automatic transaxle not completely engaging in park. I have to move the gear selector around until it eventually engages. I was wondering if you know what could cause the transaxle to not engage correctly like this. Any info would be great!
Very informative helped me fix my car and now know a lot more about electrical systems. Thankyou for your time
Thank you for a thrall over view with detail. Love the pull down voltage from pcm to zero or remains at 5v good differential testing this is what I needed to hear. Now I am not going in blind thank you Bushougoma.
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to make it! I learned a bunch and this video helped me diagnose my bad starter.
Really good vid !! No High priced devices just common good info..Great Vid
Love the detail video. Do you have the same video for a chrysler 300c. For no crank no start
Carrie Krull Your vehicle has the Passlock anti theft system more commonly known as VATS. There is basically a resistor in your key if the anti theft module doesn't sense the proper resistance it will disable the starter and fuel system. I'd rule it out as a culprit before going further.
If the security light on the dash is on when you attempt to start the vehicle it means that the VATS system is responsible for preventing the vehicle from starting.
First check the resistor in the key with an ohm meter if you can't get a reading the key is bad and is the reason for the issue.
Check inside the lock cylinder to make sure the contacts that make contact with the key are good. If they aren't the cylinder needs to be replaced.
Check the following fuses:
Fuse 11 in the instrument panel fuse box
Fuse 4 in the underhood fuse box
and Fuse 8 in the relay box.
I can provide further troubleshooting info if you need it.
Rule it out by using a second key? easy. Faults are usually intermittent but many bad connections show in the cold or in the hot. Usually corrosion or just loose nut, screw on the ground. SAAB 99 Turbo-fuel pump has a low pressure inhibitor switch in the start wire line, so a bad ground in the trunk (boot) will give a dead car. Fuel gauge will show a FULL deflection as it uses the same ground. Not many of these around but just remember this fault from years ago. Good luck yours.
I have an issue with my truck as well, I did an engine swap of 4th Gen(2009) ram into a 3rd Gen(2003) ram....it doesn't crank at all! A little red dot light blinks slowly...I think it's a anti-theft/security code popping up. What should I do Next?!?!
this guy is the goddamn man
I'm at the final stage of my hot rod truck, '97 Ranger V8 swap. but when I hit the key all I hear are the 2 solenoids and no crank. it's maddening to the point where I want to pull out what is left of my hair LOL. I'm really hoping it's the High Ground resistance that you mentioned because all mechanicals are brand new even the battery.
Good job, just what I expected from Bushougoma. There are now several good TH-cam videos of this common circuit problem, and I even did one last year. For people willing to put in the time, there's ample room to learn this online.
It's a little frustrating when you can't do a drop test because the device won't turn on. I've tried a Loadpro tester in that setting, but conceptually I prefer to use the innate device if possible. Cheers!
Thanks for shooting this video? Could the CKP/TDC sensor combo be the culprits in a no-start condition in which the starter motor is turning but the pinion gear does not seem to be engaging the flywheel (starter motor RPMs sound higher). The reason I'm asking is this just started happening on the first start attempt after I replaced the crank & camshaft oil seals and the timing/balance belt/wp on my '97 Accord non-vtec 2.2L w/ AT (315k miles BTW). The CKP/TDC sensors on my 97 are below the timing belt crank sprocket & had grime on them from the oil leaks, & I cleaned them with a towel wet with brake clean. I know this video is old but I'm hoping to pull a bad starter instead of having to pull the balance belt again.
n the old starter just went bad and at the store they said it was no good. I really dont know what's going on am I putting the wire wrong? Iam going to try that voltage test you said to do and will get back to you. thanks you been a big help so far :)
Hey Busho,
We Honda crazies out there love your videos, but we do need a tutorial on how to replace Brake Master Cylinder, all Brake Rotors, all Brake Pads, all Brake Calipers. Because them crooks out there are robbing people blind, my girl already had all the needed parts and the damn mechanic had the nerve to charge her $750.57 for parts and labor to replace 2 Front Brake Rotors, 2 Rear Brake Rotors, 4 Brake Calipers, all Brake Pads, Bleed the lines and a Brake Master Cylinder.
I like your video. The problem on mine when I check the voltage on the trigger starter wire was there was a voltage fluctuations. What causing the voltage to fluctuates? Thanks for your help.
good job on checking starter
I got a 1997 Accord coupe with a no crank issue. My Ignition switch is good as well my my starter relay. I still have no power to my solenoid wire. My power windows also stopped working at the same time I can't think of anything else??? Also my Ignition fuse is good and I'm getting power and out of the switch at the right times.
Yep, ground voltage is non-existant and no continuity. Thanks a lot for you help... will def be watching the install video tomorrow morning.
Thank's for the reply- also, I have one more question; is the Starter and solenoid not damaged by the "ON" position of the key in the ignition switch for 15 minutes? ... I had no issues with starting the car... up to this point. My assumption is no damage, due to to no current sent to either, unless in the start position.
The solenoid isn't energized unless the key is in the start position.
Do you have the same type of video for the same problem for a 2004 Ford Taurus?
Hi. Great video. You really know your stuff!
I have an LDV convoy and I'm having starter issues. When I turn the key to acc the starter relay is constantly clicking with the immobiliser light. I have no power and the headlights and indicators aren't working. My battery is fine (12.6 V) as is the earthing strap. Any ideas what it could be?
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit of rookie!
Thanks
My problem is on the trigger wire I believe. The battery is good. I've tried 3 starters, (original, rebuilt from parts store, and used one from ebay) Sometimes (rarely) it will have 12 v and will crank. Most of the time after the first crank it has 5v and does nothing. Could you be able to help explain this one? I have never seen anything like this.
just a fyi on my issue i tried switching the ign relay that was in the fuse box under the hood and it cranked, just a lucky guess but turned out to be right,
thanks for you help
Hey bushougoma I like your video it helped me a lot but my question is I have a 93 ford explorer it still won't crank I changed the battery completely new changed the starter and starting cylinoid both 3 times I also changed some relays on the fuse box under the hood....and also the fuses by the driver side inside the car are fine ignition is fine wires are alive the spark plugs are good all spark plug wires are in contact as we'll any ideas what it can be right of the top of your head??
Nice video! When do drop test, what is the safe and easy way to disable ignition (23:24 in the video)? Unplug fuse for fuel pump? Unplug distributor wires? Thanks!
The exact procedure varies by vehicle.
But in general it's best to disable the fuel system rather than the ignition system to prevent the cylinders from getting flooded with unburnt fuel. Pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay is the easiest method.
I have a 91 Park Avenue, and sometimes when I try to start it, all the idiot lights come on, but the starter won't engage. Nothing happens. There is resistance when I turn it, but the starter won't spin. I tried to override it at used jumper cables and put the positive on the starter, and the engine would crank and fire for a second, but wouldn't keep running. Thoughts?
hi, why do we need pull and hold in, if hold in can do pull in job, is that because hold in is not strong enough to engage the initial pinion gear travel.
Thanks for the reply.
I meant to say, last night, all the electronics (radio, dash, and headlights, etc.) go completely out when trying to crank the car.
Today, I replaced the battery (was charged 100%, but had a dead cell); go to crank the car, and still nothing... the car doesnt even try to turn over. The headlights, etc., do not go completely out now, but they do dim considerably when turning the key over, and there is a single click sound coming from beneath the dash.
Any other ideas?
Thanks a lot u were very helpful. It was the positive wire connection on the starter that was loose. Good deal
Glad to help. Sometimes you luck out and it's an easy fix.
Thanks For Watching.
I checked with my multimeter, I put the ground on the battery and tested the fender solenoid. It has 12.4 on the constant side (good) but I got .100+ on the side that is suppose to not have any current until triggered by the ignition wire. Replaced it with HD version and still got the .100 reading. Would a high resistance ground be the cause? That would also be the cause of my no crank but click problem? Any help would be great, ty. This is the final step of a 3 year project build and I'm must humbly admit electrical is my weak point.
BTW, the no crank is an intermittent problem. Another info, each time I turned the key to start, the panel lights came up and central locking system came alive, but the starter just didn't crank. Thank you very much!
great video and explaining men good luck
What does it mean and I'm sure you covered it but I missed it... But my car doesn't want to crank when I first turn the key in the ignition but starts right up the second try and only in the morning and it's not to cold here in California so Idk. Could it be the starter cable is loose or corroded haven't checked yet...
Thanks
excellent video most informative . its from now on my go to video. thanks .
Thanks Man! fixed my 98 with this vid
Hi Bushougoma, my accord starts sometime without any problem and sometimes I hear "click" sound but it doesn't start. Normally, I try to turn on the keys 5-6 times then finally it starts. I don't know what is causing this! I checked the battery voltage and it's all good (I am going to double check the battery connection). Before this started happening, I heard very sharp engine noise once so, I turn off the car and restarted it; the noise was gone! How do I go about it? Any suggestion?
Sir.....my ignition switch disconnected from my wiring harness underneath my steering column. As I attempted to reconnect it......I heard a loud pop. I replaced the ignition switch contact at the harness. Works good. I have power from battery....int, dash and head lights super strong......my car wont turn over. What do you think I blew? Thanks for your time
hey i need help i have the same problem on my accord 1997 it wont start and no crank
so there is a problem some where in that circuit that u were showing my starter is good battery is i have power on constant
so what i did i took a peace of wire turn ignition on and stick a wire to the plus on starter and to the minus and car start but it want start from the key could u suggest me something please
i have a 1995 Lexus ls400 sometimes it does not crank over and the next day it works can anyone help
Hello bushougoma,
I have a no crank in park; crank in neutral; no start. Starter relay is load side good control side w/key in on position has a low pottage of 3.44v. Key in start position it goes to 12.39 volts. Do I have a block ground issue? where did this 3.44 low voltage referrence come from ? The throttle reads 1.8 volts on all 3 wires no resistance to open/closed throttle. It seems dead to me or broken or is the computer in some anti theft mode?
Got a question for you I have 2002 Ford with a 5.4 triton motor. New Battery, no start no crank, do you know where the PCM is on this truck. I cleaned both battery terminal. Turn the key, got light on the dash and the speedometer when from 0 to 120 and then back to 0. Odd. Still no start no crank. Got any ideas what going on??
Question for you. I have 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer. It's having a no crank/no start problem. Turn key & all lights come on. New battery, new starter, but still won't start. Have any idea what the problem could be?
+Ismael Velazquez Is there power on the small wire going to the starter when in start? If not check the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.
If power is present what is the result of the voltage drop test on the power and ground side of the starter when in start?
I do understand the need to troubleshoot something quickly so you can get back on the road.
But if you know how the circuit and it's variants work you can perform pin point tests on any vehicle not just a specific model to quickly identify the issue.
Thanks For Watching.
hi bushougoma
I have Honda crv 1997 I had one incident the shifter stuck on p position and I released it by the slot supplied, yesterday I have a problem the car won't start not even cranking only a sound under the dashboard ( passenger seat) after that I only moved the shifter few times and the car started normally, I suspect the starter is faulty tell me what you think? by the way good video specially the theory side
When you hear the click find out where it's coming from if it's from the starter that's the solenoid. The first thing to check is for a low or bad battery. That's the most common cause for a clicking solenoid. Also make sure the connections are tight and not corroded.
The battery can produce enough current to power the solenoid but not enough to power the motor.
I wouldn't suspect a neutral safety switch issue if you're hearing the solenoid the switch and trigger wire is fine.
If the battery is good I'd perform a voltage drop test on the starter to make sure you don't have any high resistance or loose connections. If the voltage drop checks out the starter is bad.
They can become intermittent when they're about to go.
thank you very much for your prompt response and keep on your great video and help
cheers
First make sure the battery is fully charged.
Perform a voltage drop test on the starter if the voltage drop isn't excessive the starter is on it's way out.
A sign of a failing starter can be a slower than normal crank speed or an erratic crank speed. I've had the starter on my vehicle do that before it finally died the same day. When I autopsied the starter worn brushes not making contact on the commutator were the culprit.
My accord will make a clicking sound when I turn on the ignition key, but it usually takes me at least 3 tries to turn on the ignition key before it starts. What problem would that indicate? This has been going on for 4 months.
what ground to starter open?started is bround itself to a block
didnt understand nothing,what was the fix? if voltages is good
Do you have 12 volts on the tiny trigger wire going to the solenoid when in start? If you do.
Check the voltage drop on the starter power and ground as outlined in the video. A high resistance or open connection (at the starter power wire or block ground) is most likely the culprit.
A 190 Mercedes is involved- having difficulty under certain conditions for the starter to turn the engine over when I try to start the car. If I drive only a short distance, e.g 1 km and then turn the car off it will restart. If I have driven a longer distance sau 20km and then turn the car off I have difficulty starting it immediately- I heara slight click soud but the starter does not appear to kick in- when I wait for say an hour then the starter kicks in and turns the engine over- From this experience it seems that my problem is heat related- Could this be my solenoid or a coil?
Thank you made my day i fixed my accord
Hi I have a 06 chevy uplander and last night it decided to just not to turn on. No crank at all. Light are all working and tried to jump it and still nothing. When I turn the ignition it clicks for the starter but still nothing. It has all it's fluids. Do you have any suggestions. Thank you desperate mommy with a broke down minivan.
First make sure the battery terminals are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. If you have a multimeter check the battery voltage with the vehicle at rest it should be around 12.6 volts if it's lower the battery is discharged or bad. Also check the voltage while attempting to crank the engine the voltage should remain at about 10.5 volts or above. If it drops below that either the battery is discharged or bad.
Since the starter motor is clicking the ignition switch is supplying power to the solenoid. So check the power to the starter motor and block grounds for looseness or corrosion. The voltage drop test in the video checks the integrity of this wiring.
If all of the above checks out the starter motor is bad.
i have a mazda626 2001 is it possible to have multiple things wrong with my car at once I have been doing research and it seems it could be a few things but your video made me think it mite be my starter AND my battery is that possible?
If you have doubts about your battery and don't have a tester you can take it to an auto parts store many places will test it for free.
The battery should read around 12.6 at rest if it's fully charged. But what really matters is it's how it responds to a load.
With the key in the start position if the battery voltage stays above 10 volts start troubleshooting the starter and the starting circuit.
Can you do a video for how to replace the fuel pump for Honda Accord 94-97?
Thanks for yout great video that actually helped me fix my car.
I have a 1999 Honda accord LX and I recently hooked up car audio subs and an amp. When I first hooked up my audio, I was running the power wire that ran to the amplifier without a fuse. when I did so, and the audio was running the car seemed to be struggling staying on. I quickly disconnected them and turned the car off. When I went back to the car it would not crank at all. It only makes a click noise. it only makes one click and when I hold the key in the starting position you can hear
I have the same vehicle can you help me resolve the problem. I turn the key and the the motor turns doesn't start just turns and makes a buzzzzzzzzzzz sound like a mini turbine
I cross the big wire and the little wire in the started and the starter spins. I also found the relay and cross 30 with with 87 and the starter cranks
I have a 2010 F15 5.4 won't start won't crank. cluster inop, door don't chime with key in ignition . Pats light don't blink. only hear relay click. all other lights doors, windows and auxiliary power works. what could be the problem? John H
hi one another questions please... I see in many starter videos, DIODE is kept in place.. i learned the theory that DIODE is one way valve and will stop back feeding but not able to relate diode with respect to starter.. can u pls explain what is back feeding, when it will happen and how does tht diode will stop it.. please i tried all my level best to understand and got confused ...
What's the make year and model? I'll look it up and explain it.
Can't tell you how much this helped me, thank you!
I have a question to pester you with. My car wouldn't start one morning; it tried to turn over but wouldn't. The starter clearly was at work though for a second. I thought it was the battery and tried to jump it but it didn't get it started. Just worked for a second then it was completely dead. Took the battery and tested it and it was bad. Got another; however, now there is no turn-over and I can't hear a click but there is rapid clicking under the dash after I try to start and the lamps stay on with the key out. It doesn't dim when I turn the key just the rapid clicking for a time even after key is out. I was thinking that perhaps I miffed something up when I jumped the car and caused some damage. I'm planning on trying your diagnostics here but I was wondering if you had any idea if I might of damaged something particular. If I can't find the electrical issue I'll try to replace the contacts and plunger in the solenoid and see if the clutch in the starter engages before I buy a whole new stater motor but I'm confused since it seemed like the starter was fine at first.
A starter with worn brushes can fail without warning when contact with the commutator is lost.
Check the connections at the battery and starter make sure they're clean and tight and check block grounds too.
Is the chattering coming from the starter solenoid? If it is perform a voltage drop test on the starter power and ground. Make sure the trigger voltage on the small wire is there too.
If both check out the starter is bad.
I have done all the voltage drop and other tests . But when i checked the volts to the solenoid s- clip when cranking it only showed 10 volts . Other googling sites said 10- 12 volts is okay . Do you agree that 10 v is ok or is that too low , something wrong ?
Check the voltage at the battery if it's 10 volts with the key off your battery needs to be charged and the trigger wire is fine.
When in start the fuel pump will run which will put a load on and drain the battery.
***** I mentioned 1st off that I had done all other tests . Do you agree that 10 volts while turning start key is OK or not ?
***** If voltage at the battery is also 10 volts while cranking then yes.
O one thing that eric the car guys video left out was ignition key / switch could be bad
for a no start no crank Though one could test the starter directly to rule out the starter and and manually spining the crankshaft to completely rule out the no start no crank problem into a no start or start/stall problem
yes, I tried jump it with the remote switch you used on 24:07 and the starter started to work cranking the car. But without it and turning the key to start it just spins but does not engage the flywheel. It sounds like an RC toy car no crank sound..
Recently my brother's '97 1.8L Suzuki Sidekick stopped functioning. Wouldn't turn over in the parking lot, but it certainly was cranking. After a couple of days of sitting in the garage, however, it isn't even attempting to crank anymore. Turning the key to ACC will play a repeating tone from the dash, as normal. But now, turning to ON, the dash lights start out extremely dim, and many instruments appear to lose power. If it sits there for a minute, everything slowly brightens up and eventually the radio will be able to power up, but attempting to start the car quickly produces complete power drain. No lights, nothing. After the attempt to start, returning the key to ON, the car tries to recuperate. A couple of clicks will be heard, not during the process, but after the attempt is made. The tone mentioned earlier sounds like it is receiving insufficient power, almost as if it was trying to utter its last words on the deathbed (with fluctuating frequency that differs from the solid tone), and all the lights return to the previous dimmed state. Eventually it will go back to square one, all of the dash components and various lights in the car appearing to work normally. And this can be repeated over... and over... and over....
This didn't seem to be a problem a few days ago, minus the inability to turn over. A skid plate was about to fall off, but my brother fastened it with some wire, but I doubt that is the problem. I am positive the batteries are charged. A voltmeter will show around 12V on them (testing this with two separate batteries, same results). Now we are out of options. We have no extra money to freely spend on replacement parts. I checked the fuse box for blown fuses, but didn't see anything initially. I will check again.
Do you have any idea what is going on?
Try turning the crank with a ratchet the starter can't crank an engine if it's seized. If you can turn it.
Measure the battery voltage when cranking if it goes below 10.5 volts and the batteries charged it's probably a bad cell. Old batteries can die suddenly without warning.
If the battery checks out I can provide further info.
Hi i got 2001 honda acoord ex , my tranmission not reverse , before i drive nomaL PUT GEAR NOMAL , but after i change the tranmission , key on but wont start , and the light ( P , R , N , D not on in the odometer , i check power at starter solenoi , no power come when i start , cant change the gear , i check neutral switch working , do u know what wrong ? please help me , thanks
But the starter wasnt bad the connection was just loose .. Any other suggestions. I got it towed to honda.
Hi I know this is been a while since the video was posted I have a 1999 Honda Civic ex coupe the same thing is happening to my car now it turns on and everything perfect for a month and then is started doing it again now when it happens I move the cables around and it starts up I cleaned the positive terminal cables to the starter so it's good but the solenoid one I think that's something to do with that I don't think it something with the starter because it works fine what could it be the ignition switch is good as well i don't know if it's the relay or the cables please help.
Andrew Ramirez Check the block grounds for looseness and corrosion too.
Andrew Ramirez Punctuation
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@@Bushougoma my dashboard isn't lighting up when key is on but, I've power everywhere else accept my radio, ac. My fuel pump isn't coming on. I changed the ignition switch on the steering wheel and replaced the tumbler + fuel pump relay. Still nothing.
If battery voltage is making it into and out of the ignition switch with it on check the main relay.
It's clipped under the driver side dash inside a rectangular plastic case it supplies the ECU and the fuel pump. Pop the internals out of the plastic case and inspect the PCB the solder joints on the two relays often crack and cause issues like this.
I have a 1994 c4 corvette - i get a no crank sometimes when i turn the key - dash lights are on and the headlights work fine and don't dim when turning the key - i hear nothing at all when I turn the key - 15 min later the car starts normal - as if nothing was ever wrong - what could cause this problem ? Thanks for your responses
garbabby Are you getting 12 volts at small wire on the starter with the key in start? If not check the ignition switch or neutral safety switch.
If you are perform a voltage drop test with the key in start. If it's not high on the power or ground side the starter is bad. If it is high check the power wire or block ground for the loose or corroded connection.
If you can't get a reading on the ground side (the meter numbers are fluctuating when your probes are connected) check for a loose or disconnected block ground.
If the solenoid is getting 12 volts when in start you could also try tapping the starter with a hammer. If it runs or attempts to run afterward worn brushes are the most likely culprit. Sometimes this will work and other times it won't use it for double confirmation after the start wire and voltage drop check. Not the sole reason to replace a starter.
On a 1998 Ford Escort with a switch on there's a humming under the hood and the car won't start but when you plug a diagnostic tool into the port it will run but when you cut it out full it out it won't run diagnose problem
Very very good video. Thank you .
I have been having some starting issues with my 2000 ford focus se wagon. Before the car wouldn't start and when I jiggled the battery terminal cables the car would start. The terminals were corroded, so I cleaned them with a baking soda and water solution. I don't know what i did wrong but now my car won't crank at all. All other electricity on the car works. Also the lights don't dim when in the start position. Do i need to replace my terminals or cables or is this a starter problem? help plz
Boas dicas.
Shouldn't the gear be in neutral before you try to turn the crankshaft manuely?
Dead starter the brushes were worn out. I didn't think to film it before I replaced it.
Excessive voltage drop or an open power or ground can cause the starter to appear dead so it's important to check voltage drop after the verifying power on the trigger wire when in start.
I experienced no crank, no start on my 1995 Volvo 850 (20 valve engine) for five occasions in 6 months (it is an intermittent issue). I heard a click sound each time I turned the key to start, but the starter didn't crank. After a few tries (perhaps, 1 or 2 minutes later), the car would just start right up. I checked the battery, and recorded 12.7 volts. I don't think it was bad PNP switch either, because I had shifted the gears a few times on each occasion. . I sent my car for a repair by an automobile electrician and a couple of automobile technicians. They couldn't figure out either. Please help!
If the click is coming from the starter solenoid the PNP switch, ignition switch, and trigger wire is good.
Check the connections at the battery, the starter power wire, and the engine grounds to make sure they're tight and free of corrosion. Loose connections can cause an intermittant no crank.
Worn brushes can also cause the motor to become intermittent if rapping on the starter lightly with a hammer causes it to work again the starter is bad.
Aside from that all you can do is perform a voltage drop test when it acts up. If the voltage drop checks out and there is 12 volts on the trigger wire the starter is bad.
This is a general video made to cover multiple vehicles and circuit designs. It would be impossible to give pin point advice on what to check with so many circuit variations.
A working knowledge of the circuit you're working on is vital to a proper diagnosis.
Lets say a certain circuit isn't functioning properly. How do you know IF it's functioning properly? How do you test the circuit to find the cause of the malfunction?
Without knowledge of how the circuits supposed to operate you can't.
I have a 2003 vw Passat 1.8l automatic transmission, that won't start sometimes.I turn the key to start the starter will sometimes crank the engine and start and sometimes it will crank then stop cranking but the starter is still spinning. Sometimes it won't engage the flywheel at all and just spins. It's very frustrating because it isn't a constant problem. I have replaced the battery and also had the starter bench tested at a shop on their starter/alternator testing machine and it tested good. I also tested myself by closing the connection and the pinion comes out and spins strong. What's your take on this situation?
+Mike Trottier I would first make sure the pinion gear on the starter and the ring gear on the engine are in good shape. You can inspect it by turning the crank with the starter removed.
If the gears are ok it sounds like the overrunning clutch is slipping when the motor is under a mechanical load. Remanufactured starters are so inexpensive nowadays it doesn't pay to repair them.
When I had the starter out the pinion gear looked to be a little rounded but IMO not damaged the engine side appeared to be in good shape, nice and square still. There was no sign of damaged teeth from what I could see, I did not turn the engine a full turn though.
When I put the starter back in and replaced the battery the issue stopped for the last two/three weeks only to return again mid last week. Since it came back it is still not consistently happening, and seems random though it has been taking longer and happening more often.
I'm gonna get a starter and hope that solves this. I'm guessing it will.
Thanks for your time.
my friend has a 2000 Honda accord -v6 coupe -DX automatic, she said it cut off on her a couple days ago and now it will turn over like it wants to start but won't, Can u help me please
I've got an intermittent issue where my '97 Accord will click when I turn the key to 'start'. If I turn it back to 'on' and then back to 'start' again, there's a chance it will either just click or fire right up with no hesitation at all. I've had cases where it does nothing but click so I give up, then come back a day or so later and it fires right up and continues to work without issue for weeks at a time.. where should I start?
Make sure the battery terminals are tight and free or corrosion to prevent a poor connection. Check the positive terminal going to the starter it should be clean and tight too. Measure the batteries voltage when cranking. If it's above 10 volts the battery isn't the issue.
If the trigger voltage is there on the small wire with the key in start and the voltage drop checks out on the power and ground side the starter is bad.
ok I have a 2004 civic stranded at the moment due to a no start, no crank, the battery is good and the starter has been replaced, the neutral safety switch has also been replaced, I have power to the lights, horn, door locks, and windows. The car is a automatic and I have to push the shift lock override to get it out of park. I have been diagnosing for the last 2 days, all the fuses are good. I did notice I don't have 12 volts going from the ignition switch to the starter, so I ordered a ignition starter switch, ill be installing this part tomorrow, if this doesn't fix the issue then I'm stumped, thanks for any help you can provide
I diagnosed the problem, I had a bad ground connection under the hood coming off the main wiring harness, fixed the ground and the car fired right up
wickedcivic1
That will do it :-).
That explains why you didn't have power on the start wire at the starter. The starter cut relay coil didn't have a good ground to close.
I have a 1996 honda accord lx when I try to start my car all I hear is a whining sound could like a flat line. The day before it struggled to start, drove for a half hour turned it off then nothing. Now im stuck, I would really appreciate some advice. Thanks.
Is the engine not cranking or cranking but not starting?
do you know where the neutral safety switch is located on a 1995 honda accord ex 2.7 v6?
+Chersoua Lee On the side of the gear selector.
If dimmed what’s the problem? Cause my minivan I replaced the battery, starter and alternator and still dimming when cranking (try to crank but no), voltage drops to 7V. Is driving me crazy.
The specs are just a general guideline if there is sufficient resistance in the line to completely prevent the starter from operating the voltage drop will be very high.
Temperature compensation isn't needed with these testers although temperature does play a role in battery current output.
If battery voltage stays above 10.5 volts the battery should be able to crank the engine. If your battery can't maintain this above freezing on a warm day it's just going to get worse come winter time.
Okay so how exactly do you rotate the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet?
1995 chevrolet silverado,truck has factory alarm,after respliceing alarm under hood at firewall,upon hooking up battery,alarm sounds off,but truck no crank,no start. Battery 100% good. Do not know where to start looking. What happen when I spliced broken wire to cause no crank,no start?
+Geraldo Ybarra You'll need a wiring diagram since the alarm is factory the connections and pin out from the alarm module should be well documented.
If one connection was bad there may be other bad connections elsewhere no way to do any definitive testing without a diagram.
I have a 2002 ford f150 thought the fuel pump went out so put a new one in and still won't start cranks but doesn't start has oil has coolent battery has been fully charged hoping it hasn't jumped time or hoping its just a sensor
I left my key in the on position for approx 5 min gas came from the engine. Never started it. When I tried it make a single clunk sound
Very helpful video, thank you!
You're going to have to get a wiring diagram and start checking grounds.
If 12 volts is entering the box but not getting to certain fuses chances are the accessories (like turn signals) are switched by the ignition switch before the fuse and there may be an issue with the switch.
Give me the year make and model and I'll pull up a wiring diagram to give you more specific areas to check.