Sir!!! Outstanding Job!! What a way to hang in there until YOU found the actual Problem!! You Initially Hit by indicating that is was a Heavy Rain or moisture environment. Then, You continued to Trouble Shoot leaving Not stone Unturned Until You Arrived at What was most likely the Ultimate cause!! Job Well Done!! Thanks For Sharing!!!!!
What I have learned is to slow down. Experience has taught me this. But if you working flat rate it’s very hard to do. Thank you for posting video keep up the good work.
Good job! My old 96 Civic did something similar. Noticed a bit of a rough idle during damp or wet weather. Eventually it stalled on me going to work on a rainy morning. Let it sit for a while so heat would build up under the hold to dry things out a bit. It started and it was fine the rest of the day. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, etc... and it ran perfectly afterwards. If you suspect a misfire during damp weather, it often helps to run the engine after dark and look under the hood. The misfires often show up very well in the dark.
& misidentifying plugs with any center electrode left as “really needing to be replaced”, without setting an exact gap. Would’ve served him right to burn out the secondary winding from too low resistance and ended up needing that nonreturnable ‘electronic’ coil.
For all the critics here, EHT electrical intermittent problems (weather dependent too) are notoriously difficult to pin-point. PHAD done an excellent diagnosis of this which shows the difference between logical thought and parts-canons. Well done PHAD on this one.
Actually I van I'm a little IFFY ON HOW YOU PUT THE PLUGS IN WITH A DRILL. Everything else you did was CLAASIC IVAN A+ especially the test light water trick, FREGGIN AWESOME. People can get into BIG PROBLEMS trying to put their plugs in with a drill as you did but I UNDERSTAND YOU ARE A PRO. I wouldn't recommend installing plugs with a drill for the average backyard mechanic. If there was a sideways thumb symbol I would click that but I clicked a thumbs up because you are a PROFESSIONAL.
Actually if your careful and have a good feel for it its pretty easy to do without hurting a thing. I do it all the time and never had an issue. I dont know why people freek out over this method
I'm not FREAKING OUT, I SAID FOR THE AVERAGE BACKYARD JOE I DON'T THINK IT'S A GOOD IDEA. FOR IVAN, YES, HE'S A PRO. I TYPE IN CAPS ALOT SO DON'T THINK I'M YELLING OR FREAKING OUT, SORRY. YES YOU DEFENITELY HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL, STARTING THEM BY HAND WOULD BE BEST BUT IVAN WAS TRYING TO DO IT FAST & AS I SAID HE'S AN EXPERIENCED PRO. THAT'S WHY I WATCH HIM, OH & WHEN HE TAKES OFF HIS SHIRT WOO HOO, HIS WIFE IS GREAT TOO, THANKS DYLAN.
It amazes me how so many young people on YT i see starting bolts,machine screws and spark plugs with impact wrenches. One of these days your going to cross thread and hopefully it doesn't cost you alot of money to repair......a side from that nice fix
Ivan, the old Honda zapped you. Boy, did you move that hand fast! Best laugh I have had for a long time. Some more old school advice, check for moisture inside the distributor cap.
We love crank no starts. Always straight shooting from your bunker , that rain you mentioned loves distributors and main relays (Honda leak issue). Its uncanny how efficient the central nervous system spark detector is. I hate that tool but it routinely outshines the grounded test light on secondary components.
My car cranks and turns on for a second or two but dies out ,BUT IF I PRIME THE FUEL PUMP S COUPLE TIMES IT WILL STAY ON LINGER what type of issue may this be
@@mikeverything4098 With so many possibilities hard to say, I would ground a test light and try to confirm voltage at the pump , key on ,and while cranking, ,if so chances are it is the pump.
Thanks for your videos...particularly this one on the Honda Accord. It really helped me diagnose a distributor issue on a 304,000 km '02 Accord Coupe 4 cylinder.
Big fan Ivan, I'm doing similar work for my own customers. Not quite at the level you and Eric O are at but hoping to get there. Love to learn new things and step by step diagnosis is where it's at.
Ivan, Great case study and fix - thank you! I had a Ford Escort in the 1990s that went 140K on its original spark plugs and when I took them out they were worn down to the nub like that. But it still ran. Happy Easter God bless Paul
My guess is after you closed the gaps on the old plugs, the cylinders still had residual fuel left in them, ie flooded engine, which was causing the no fire, always a good idea to crank the engine @ WOT for a short period after a no spark condition to clear out the cylinders of fuel. Good follow up after the plug replacement with checking for short on the cap and wires. Great vid, Ivan :)
This did not solve my 02 Accord"s very rare intermittent crank no start when over 30 C but it was still educational anyways. Always learn something here!
good, but I would have 1st >checked the color of the sparkplugs, red means fuel starvation 2> check for the sparkplugs sparking 3>listen for the fuel pump with the ignition on.
This is why if I ever do spark plugs on an old school system I generally will sell the secondary tune-up to go with it. If plugs are shmoked, most likely so are the wires and cap/rotor. Unless it is obvious the wires cap and rotor are relatively new. Great video!
on hondas i rember two caps mitsu ,naksi allways get the wrong one first ,no rotor replacement or not shown? great thought process had spark move on. then go back. seen many shops get burnt on this! seen lots on rotors shorted to dist shaft we used to hold coil wire near rotor make sure spark jumped around not to shaft. good to show and mention weather and further cust. interagation . another great vid. laughed when spark hit you sorry but i saw it coming.happy easter.
Forgot to mention that you should also recommend to your customer to replace the distributor rotor. That's also a part of the Honda ignition system. Keep up the good work and videos.
Happy Easter !! I would have sprayed a dose of starting fluid in the plug hole , then wait for the shock to find the spark, that's really old school !!
Also, get all the parts for that system in the first trip,return what you didn't use when you're done, saves a lot of time running back and forth. Also, open the new parts at the counter, make sure they're right.
Ivan, I would say running that car with severely worn (excessive gap) plugs is what did in the plug wires and the cap, punching breaches in them over time.
Had this exact same problem in my acura after it rain, it had spark and fuel but would not start, came back the next day after it was dry car fired right up didn't look into it. 2 weeks later it rained again and got a rough start with misfire until it got warm. replaced cap n rotor and all has been great since
Great repair. Sometimes it's the simplest things. Those Carquest wires aren't the best. I had a set on my Integra They lasted about a year. From now on i replace only with NGK blue wires or OE on a Honda. I understand sometimes you have to go with what's on the shelf but Those Autolite or those Carquest wires are junk.
OK Ivan, this one kicked your butt. Must have spark and fuel. Hmmmm, got it. Let's break out the fancy diagnostic tools and look at some patterns. Hmmmm, funny patterns. Let's run the parts cannon. Hmmmm, car started without putting in new parts. Hmmmm, what's different? Rained out the night before but, the car started anyway. Hmmmm, interesting!! Let's look at some new patterns. Hmmmm, not conclusive. Pattern is "not that great". Let's put in some expensive plugs. 10 bucks a piece, "pretty good deal". " Copper tipped traditional plugs". WTF???? Put the nice new plugs in. Hmmmm, let's look at a new scope pattern. Wait, nope. Let's spray water on the running engine, "what the heck, suppose to quit"!! Oh well, " I don't get it". Let's go OLD SCHOOL! Use a test light and found spark leaving the cap and stalling the car. Let's put on cap and wires. Oops, wrong cap. Start it up, runs the same. Let's almost give it back with a check engine light. Diagnose DTC. Nope, just clear them. Bottom line, proof is in the pudding, 100% confirmed. His diagnostic equipment failed him this time cause he did not go back and get a new scope pattern to see if there is a difference in them. Where did the owners go? There not out there smiling. Will follow up in a few days to see if car will run after a rain storm, uh wait, nope. Honda kicked my butt, but I got it running and it did need those parts anyway. Lucky me. Only kidding Ivan, still subscribed, still following you, Just this time you didn't follow through.
Yeah, we are a long way from South Main Auto or Scanner Danner or ChrisFix, but he will get better with time, hopefully. At least he did go back with a squirt bottle. And he needs to just STOP with the starting plugs with an impact in an aluminum head. ALWAYS start a plug into a cylinder by HAND. Also, use a torque wrench on plugs. And go with genuineHonda on the cap, there is a local dealership in State College and it's a low cost part. Got very lucky that the cap from NAPA was made in Japan. And never use any brand of plugs or wires other than Denso or NGK. And never after-market on a coil, fuel pump, or anything else critical!
@@carlosedwardos I hear you sir. Sometimes the problem with aftermarket parts is, that's what the customer wants or that's all that is available from the parts store. I tell people I won't work on the car if they want junk parts unless it's an emergency. And yes, who starts a plug that way. My point on this video from Ivan was, he seems to be jumping all over the place. He always seems to over think the situation at times then brings out his equipment that most of us don't own and when he can't explain what he sees on the scope pattern, which I for one would want to know, he just skips it. I would of really like to have seen the scope pattern after he put on those parts. And besides, if a car has a problem starting after it rains, chances are, the wires are bad. And always change the rotor with a cap replacement. Bottom line, sometimes Ivan irritates me but, he is honest and very curious and usually figures this crap out by himself, not from experience but from good old common sense and practical application. He has many skills and talents and I respect him for that but, these multiple parts seem to me like he is looking for a way to make more money from these videos, which, god bless him, is working for him.
When a car actually does need plugs and wires. Spot on Ivan. Hope you had a great Easter. I spent good Friday fighting with rusty brake lines. Found out i have quite a bit of work to do. But onwards and downwards.
Absolutely, and especially when there's change from cold to warmer, like now in the spring, and there's moisture involved. I helped a lady stuck in the road one time under just such circumstances. She had got halfway home and the car quit. I pulled off the distributor and it was all wet inside not from any leak, but from condensation. Dried it out with a cloth and away she went. I'll bet this Honda would have responded to that treatment. Of course, it still needed new ignition components anyway.
I had a problem with my truck similar it would not crank at all first thing in the morning but if I went to start it after lunch it would fire right up. I just wiggled the wires going in to the firewall and everything has been fine
Ivan I would of replaced the coil as well, hondas of that year are known for failure, the coil would be next to replace! Everything else is regular tuneup! Honda of this generation are still the best, they held up the test of time!!! Love the video ivan!!!
Not quitesure what your rant is about but to make clear the reference: SMA, PHAD, NLA, etc are known and speak to each other and use each other's quips. Cheers!@@HighestRank
Good honest diag Ivan. I was troubled when you bought out the intermotor part. Here in the UK it's a lottery what's in That box. Sometimes it's gen other times it's a waste of time. 👍👍👍
You should had a look on the injectors to see if they were firing when the car was not running. The car does not need nothing. Maybe the spark plugs only. And the car was not working maybe because the ECU was not receiving RPM signal. Don't forget that on that design the spark is not controlled by the ECU. So if you have spark than you are good. You must chase other things.
The lesson is get yer parts at Napper (not a sponsor). Great job on going old school. One suggestion though, have a can of carb cleaner on hand to spray in the intake to help narrow the testing down.
My 96 Dodge Ram had a crank but no start. Turning the key, I didn't hear the pump so I pounded on the tank and the engine started. Replaced the pump and now it runs fine.
No way I don't highly recommend a full tune-up with cap, rotor and wires to go along with the spark plugs. If the plugs are that old the rest of the ignition system is at least that old. If the cap/rotor or a spark plug wire has high resistance, they will take out that coil eventually.
С Пасхой! Awesome troubleshooting with test light and water spray bottle. Old school is still best school. As always, great diagnostics and tech tips. Keep on keepin' on! Ура, приятель!
Back in the days of carburetors flooding was a common occurrence. Crank and spit, crank and spit. No start, just spit. One time my brother had severe flooding in winter and it would just tease you but not start. He played with it for a couple days and actually wore out his starter. After putting on another starter, he went away for the day. While he was gone out I did old trick I used for hard starting engines ( especially flooded ) and took all the spark plugs and gapped them at about .005 to help the electricity go across the gap easier instead of the wet insulator. That did the trick , I made it clear out then put them all back. I didn't tell him but my dad told him to try it again " I have a good feeling about it " He was suspicious.
It's such a good feeling to figure out what the problem is, get the proper parts for a 21 year old car put them in and fix the issue, these plugs are high quality but might not be the best choice for this " old school " style ignition, there high energy and produce a higher temp spark and while the car will run and drive well they might tend to set the check engine light, great job and Happy Easter to you and yours
@@SimplyDiagnostics My Grannie used to say it doesn't matter if they are talking good about you, or bad about you. At least they are talking about you!
Great effort in troubleshooting and explanation. Awesome video! Typical young vehicle owner, drive it till it doesn't drive anymore then do breakdown maintenance!
Happy Easter - and the easiest car to change plugs on (for me, at least) was my '72 Eldorado. There was enough room between the block and the inner fenders to store a tuba.
Good diagnostic approach. However, i would do the following differently: 1- check spark if its there 2- check fuel pressure by loosen bolt on top of filter then cycle key. If fuel squirts out you got sufficient peessure or spray starting fluid in air box or brake cleaner if it starts and shots off you lost fuel to the engine. Tap fuel tank with brass hammer then try to start it. 3- check mechanical timing by inspecting belt to see if it snapped. But you will notice if that is the problem because as you crank engine a distinctive noise will indicate no compression as it will crank very rapidly. 4- typical signs of main relay is that it wont run when car is hot. That means the contacts inside main relay are bad and when car cools down it then its able to start. Ask customer if that is the symptom.
Nicely done, Ivan. Admittedly, I'm slightly disappointed you didn't rebuild the distributor cap and spark plugs using only a matchbox car and an old shoe. But you get a pass for the holiday. ;)
I usually go with NGK as well but I have no problem with using Denso either if the NGKs aren’t available. Denso is quality stuff. I checked out a Chrysler 300m with a 3.5 Saturday leaking spark through a coil housing that shocked the piss out of me too. No matter how many times you’ve been got over the years it never fails to make your feet come off of the ground. At least I didn’t hit my head on the hood too. 😂
This was interesting. Kinda threw me for a loop for a bit. Those initial current ramps were so questionable, but I can understand why towards the end. Happy Easter to you and the wife, Ivan!! Big hugs! 🤗🤗😊😊
V power is the best for those cars. Cap rotor plugs and wires every 90k timing belt all u need. Got 500k on mine and still original distributor. Wonder if timing belt is still original because looks like everything else was.
Wow , nice , I got some issue with my 1990 prelude si , it cranks, and sometimes start and sometimes not, I change the fuel pump and still doing same … I going to check my sparks probably weekend ( but I was looking other videos and the year prelude s have issues with the mail relay ) probably is that but I’m lost …great job showing step by step.
Liked the old test light trick at the end to test for HT leakage. The water method was found wanting at the crunch moment.Dem sparkplugs are museum pieces.Never seen them that worn. Must have put serious pressure on the secondary hardware. Pretty good piece of detective work to decipher that one. Happy Easter !!
I never thought I'd like a distributor diag so much! The system on this Accord is definitely a lot less complicated than Toyota distributor systems of similar era.
Happy Easter! What did we learn? Scheduled maintenance matters. Very high moisture is bad for electrical systems when they are old. Does that car have a rotor? They don't like moisture once they are old! Why not use copper based anti-seize on the plugs?
Carlos Moreira You are correct. Don't understand why a full tune up was not done when the plugs were that bad. Partial tune ups seldom work for very long.
Like asked by another commenter I would like to know why you didn't replace the ignition rotor?Perhaps it is supplied with the distributor cap and not shown?Napa here in Canada list them separately.
@Paul Preddy Any ignition system that uses a distributor uses an ignition rotor,if only 1 ignition coil is used for more than 2 cylinders then a rotor is also required-like in the vehicle in this video.
Given the condition of the plugs... I’d have bought the cap, rotor and wires too since I hate going to the store. :-P Also iridium plugs if they are the ultra fine may not last all that long. I’ve had some worn out at 50k miles. I couldn’t tell which ones you had, but mine were the denso ultra fine.
good finding one over another , thnks for sharing . what call my attention is when you remove the spark plugs at least on the camera did not looks wet of unburn fuel, I thought you were going to checck injector power as it comes from the main relay the other half on the main relay
Nice job Ivan.... Never saw that thing with the test light and the water.... Nice!!! When it gets wet & quits, my brain always kinda goes to rotor, cap, wires.... But I am not a genius like you, so... when it dried out the next day, and starts right up.... Yeah.... Anyways, Happy Easter, best wishes to you & your family....
throttle bottle Yeah it will be catches on fires all those rubbers parts too.Wd40 is chemicals based products,why would you uses it to detect leaks that is just a stupid suggestion.
lol, "Water Displacement 40th" is what it stands for and it does exactly that especially useful for high voltage ignition systems, the propellant is CO2 (carbon dioxide) non flammable or use spray bottle type. yes you need to shake/blow/dab the excess out from inside and not leave puddles, a thin not quite dry film wont be enough to heat up and combust if at all. I'm always directly torching the stuff doing repairwork. One of it's best uses it getting water "displaced" out of a drowned ignition system of off-road vehicles, nobody dares goes wheeling without WD40! well, unless of course they really hiking through woods and knee deep mud instead.... :)))
Well done on the plugs Ivan I'll give you $100 if you can change them that quick on a 98 V6 Camaro. Never though about using a test light to look for leaking electrons, its good to learn something new every day.
I use the BlueDriver for pulling codes quickly from my phone. It’s a little more expensive than the elm dongles but it has enhanced DTCs and most cars it will pull and clear codes from most modules on the vehicle.
I had a Camry that did the same thing when it was raining or damp out but once it would dry out later in the day Would Start rt Up Fine!! Ended up being my Distributor Cap was Cracked a lil bit and was getting moisture in it..
Sir!!! Outstanding Job!! What a way to hang in there until YOU found the actual Problem!! You Initially Hit by indicating that is was a Heavy Rain or moisture environment. Then, You continued to Trouble Shoot leaving Not stone Unturned Until You Arrived at What was most likely the Ultimate cause!! Job Well Done!! Thanks For Sharing!!!!!
What I have learned is to slow down. Experience has taught me this. But if you working flat rate it’s very hard to do. Thank you for posting video keep up the good work.
Good job! My old 96 Civic did something similar. Noticed a bit of a rough idle during damp or wet weather. Eventually it stalled on me going to work on a rainy morning. Let it sit for a while so heat would build up under the hold to dry things out a bit. It started and it was fine the rest of the day. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, etc... and it ran perfectly afterwards. If you suspect a misfire during damp weather, it often helps to run the engine after dark and look under the hood. The misfires often show up very well in the dark.
It is not easy to be more efficient when the problem is intermittent. Interesting case, thanks for bringing us along.
This is the real deal. Finding additional problems, getting wrong parts, perseverance gets the job done ✔
No such thing as wrong parts. If they don't fit, you're just not trying hard enough to make them fit and probably need a bigger hammer.
Is this like things not to do? Hey customer when did you last do a tune up? Good grief
& misidentifying plugs with any center electrode left as “really needing to be replaced”, without setting an exact gap. Would’ve served him right to burn out the secondary winding from too low resistance and ended up needing that nonreturnable ‘electronic’ coil.
rob slipsky Just that Italian tuneup last week, who wants to know?
@@robslipsky9066 Typical chick man. They think a timely oil change is enough.
Perseverance without panic shows a good level of confidence in sorting the problems out. 👍
For all the critics here, EHT electrical intermittent problems (weather dependent too) are notoriously difficult to pin-point. PHAD done an excellent diagnosis of this which shows the difference between logical thought and parts-canons. Well done PHAD on this one.
Actually I van I'm a little IFFY ON HOW YOU PUT THE PLUGS IN WITH A DRILL. Everything else you did was CLAASIC IVAN A+ especially the test light water trick, FREGGIN AWESOME. People can get into BIG PROBLEMS trying to put their plugs in with a drill as you did but I UNDERSTAND YOU ARE A PRO. I wouldn't recommend installing plugs with a drill for the average backyard mechanic. If there was a sideways thumb symbol I would click that but I clicked a thumbs up because you are a PROFESSIONAL.
Actually if your careful and have a good feel for it its pretty easy to do without hurting a thing. I do it all the time and never had an issue. I dont know why people freek out over this method
I'm not FREAKING OUT, I SAID FOR THE AVERAGE BACKYARD JOE I DON'T THINK IT'S A GOOD IDEA. FOR IVAN, YES, HE'S A PRO. I TYPE IN CAPS ALOT SO DON'T THINK I'M YELLING OR FREAKING OUT, SORRY. YES YOU DEFENITELY HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL, STARTING THEM BY HAND WOULD BE BEST BUT IVAN WAS TRYING TO DO IT FAST & AS I SAID HE'S AN EXPERIENCED PRO. THAT'S WHY I WATCH HIM, OH & WHEN HE TAKES OFF HIS SHIRT WOO HOO, HIS WIFE IS GREAT TOO, THANKS DYLAN.
When dealing with Honda's ignition system, you always use genuine Honda parts. ALWAYS. Great video.
yup. just buy OEM's
Wow, You are brilliant on diagnosing " The Legendary Accord" gets to drive on...A + Rating.
It amazes me how so many young people on YT i see starting bolts,machine screws and spark plugs with impact wrenches. One of these days your going to cross thread and hopefully it doesn't cost you alot of money to repair......a side from that nice fix
Very clever spray bottle trick with bonus Ivan zapping. Top marks for this video.
Using that impact on those plugs is freaking crazy.
Ivan, the old Honda zapped you. Boy, did you move that hand fast! Best laugh I have had for a long time. Some more old school advice, check for moisture inside the distributor cap.
i was waiting for that moment lol with the plugs that far gone best to do complete tune up
We love crank no starts. Always straight shooting from your bunker , that rain you mentioned loves distributors and main relays (Honda leak issue). Its uncanny how efficient the central nervous system spark detector is. I hate that tool but it routinely outshines the grounded test light on secondary components.
My car cranks and turns on for a second or two but dies out ,BUT IF I PRIME THE FUEL PUMP S COUPLE TIMES IT WILL STAY ON LINGER what type of issue may this be
@@mikeverything4098 With so many possibilities hard to say, I would ground a test light and try to confirm voltage at the pump , key on ,and while cranking, ,if so chances are it is the pump.
When you were touching the wet wires I thought to myself: "You are going to get shocked."
Thanks for your videos...particularly this one on the Honda Accord. It really helped me diagnose a distributor issue on a 304,000 km '02 Accord Coupe 4 cylinder.
Big fan Ivan, I'm doing similar work for my own customers. Not quite at the level you and Eric O are at but hoping to get there. Love to learn new things and step by step diagnosis is where it's at.
Nice! It's a rewarding field for sure!
you sounds like chris fix.. awesome video, thank you for sharing.
Ivan,
Great case study and fix - thank you! I had a Ford Escort in the 1990s that went 140K on its original spark plugs and when I took them out they were worn down to the nub like that. But it still ran.
Happy Easter
God bless
Paul
My guess is after you closed the gaps on the old plugs, the cylinders still had residual fuel left in them, ie flooded engine, which was causing the no fire, always a good idea to crank the engine @ WOT for a short period after a no spark condition to clear out the cylinders of fuel. Good follow up after the plug replacement with checking for short on the cap and wires. Great vid, Ivan :)
Can a weak battery and , starter, or silinoid, be a source of the problem ?
This did not solve my 02 Accord"s very rare intermittent crank no start when over 30 C but it was still educational anyways. Always learn something here!
I would strongly recommend spraying some ether in the intake very early in the diagnosis to eliminate either spark or fuel right away.
Exactly
good, but I would have 1st >checked the color of the sparkplugs, red means fuel starvation 2> check for the sparkplugs sparking 3>listen for the fuel pump with the ignition on.
spark and ether? kaboom
This is so cool! My 2001 Honda Accord is doing the same things. I love this video, it's giving me hope.
This is why if I ever do spark plugs on an old school system I generally will sell the secondary tune-up to go with it. If plugs are shmoked, most likely so are the wires and cap/rotor. Unless it is obvious the wires cap and rotor are relatively new. Great video!
Thanks, an enlightening and watchable car care video, rarest of finds. Happy very belated Easter
A neglected car. Probably the original timing belt too.
on hondas i rember two caps mitsu ,naksi allways get the wrong one first ,no rotor replacement or not shown? great thought process had spark move on. then go back. seen many shops get burnt on this! seen lots on rotors shorted to dist shaft we used to hold coil wire near rotor make sure spark jumped around not to shaft. good to show and mention weather and further cust. interagation . another great vid. laughed when spark hit you sorry but i saw it coming.happy easter.
Got my parts from the NAPPER... NOT a sponsor.
OK Eric!. Lol 😂😂
Hahaha!
Something something FREAKIN Dorman
Forgot to mention that you should also recommend to your customer to replace the distributor rotor. That's also a part of the Honda ignition system. Keep up the good work and videos.
Test light for the win! Thanks for the easter treat Ivan!
Happy Easter !! I would have sprayed a dose of starting fluid in the plug hole , then wait for the shock to find the spark, that's really old school !!
Also, get all the parts for that system in the first trip,return what you didn't use when you're done, saves a lot of time running back and forth. Also, open the new parts at the counter, make sure they're right.
Ivan, great video!!!!!!!! test light and water is the best test to find a voltage leak from the secondary ignition system!!!!!!!!!!!
Ivan, I would say running that car with severely worn (excessive gap) plugs is what did in the plug wires and the cap, punching breaches in them over time.
Exactly. Neglecting basic maintenance items can get very expensive over time!
That car was loved but not loved enough to do maintenance. Those ignition parts appeared to be original. Well done, Ivan.
that is a possibility with a gap that wide.
Clearly “loved” didn’t refer to the car. I’ve never seen plugs THAT worn.
briantii so true, very unloved, but loved the extended oil changes to the point of a light knock.
Had this exact same problem in my acura after it rain, it had spark and fuel but would not start, came back the next day after it was dry car fired right up didn't look into it. 2 weeks later it rained again and got a rough start with misfire until it got warm. replaced cap n rotor and all has been great since
Another awesome job bro. I learn more and more watching your channel.
Excellent tip for using test light to look for spark leaks!
Great repair. Sometimes it's the simplest things. Those Carquest wires
aren't the best. I had a set on my Integra They lasted about a year.
From now on i replace only with NGK blue wires or OE on a Honda. I
understand sometimes you have to go with what's on the shelf but Those
Autolite or those Carquest wires are junk.
I actually had a bad NGK blue wire bite me once on a Subaru. Can't trust any brand anymore haha
Go with the lifetime warranty, just replaced mine from oreilly auto, simple then
Ivan thank you for giving step by step directions for the non pros like me and many others.
Scope on a rope ignition test - excellent tip. Thanks.
Jerrell Strawn it helps to use any mode besides ‘peak detection’, tho.
OK Ivan, this one kicked your butt. Must have spark and fuel. Hmmmm, got it. Let's break out the fancy diagnostic tools and look at some patterns. Hmmmm, funny patterns. Let's run the parts cannon. Hmmmm, car started without putting in new parts. Hmmmm, what's different? Rained out the night before but, the car started anyway. Hmmmm, interesting!! Let's look at some new patterns. Hmmmm, not conclusive. Pattern is "not that great". Let's put in some expensive plugs. 10 bucks a piece, "pretty good deal". " Copper tipped traditional plugs". WTF????
Put the nice new plugs in. Hmmmm, let's look at a new scope pattern. Wait, nope. Let's spray water on the running engine, "what the heck, suppose to quit"!! Oh well, " I don't get it". Let's go OLD SCHOOL! Use a test light and found spark leaving the cap and stalling the car. Let's put on cap and wires. Oops, wrong cap. Start it up, runs the same. Let's almost give it back with a check engine light. Diagnose DTC. Nope, just clear them.
Bottom line, proof is in the pudding, 100% confirmed. His diagnostic equipment failed him this time cause he did not go back and get a new scope pattern to see if there is a difference in them.
Where did the owners go? There not out there smiling.
Will follow up in a few days to see if car will run after a rain storm, uh wait, nope.
Honda kicked my butt, but I got it running and it did need those parts anyway. Lucky me.
Only kidding Ivan, still subscribed, still following you, Just this time you didn't follow through.
Yeah, we are a long way from South Main Auto or Scanner Danner or ChrisFix, but he will get better with time, hopefully. At least he did go back with a squirt bottle. And he needs to just STOP with the starting plugs with an impact in an aluminum head. ALWAYS start a plug into a cylinder by HAND. Also, use a torque wrench on plugs. And go with genuineHonda on the cap, there is a local dealership in State College and it's a low cost part. Got very lucky that the cap from NAPA was made in Japan. And never use any brand of plugs or wires other than Denso or NGK. And never after-market on a coil, fuel pump, or anything else critical!
@@carlosedwardos I hear you sir. Sometimes the problem with aftermarket parts is, that's what the customer wants or that's all that is available from the parts store. I tell people I won't work on the car if they want junk parts unless it's an emergency. And yes, who starts a plug that way.
My point on this video from Ivan was, he seems to be jumping all over the place. He always seems to over think the situation at times then brings out his equipment that most of us don't own and when he can't explain what he sees on the scope pattern, which I for one would want to know, he just skips it. I would of really like to have seen the scope pattern after he put on those parts.
And besides, if a car has a problem starting after it rains, chances are, the wires are bad. And always change the rotor with a cap replacement.
Bottom line, sometimes Ivan irritates me but, he is honest and very curious and usually figures this crap out by himself, not from experience but from good old common sense and practical application. He has many skills and talents and I respect him for that but, these multiple parts seem to me like he is looking for a way to make more money from these videos, which, god bless him, is working for him.
When a car actually does need plugs and wires. Spot on Ivan. Hope you had a great Easter.
I spent good Friday fighting with rusty brake lines. Found out i have quite a bit of work to do. But onwards and downwards.
damp weather will find electrical bugs
Absolutely, and especially when there's change from cold to warmer, like now in the spring, and there's moisture involved. I helped a lady stuck in the road one time under just such circumstances. She had got halfway home and the car quit. I pulled off the distributor and it was all wet inside not from any leak, but from condensation. Dried it out with a cloth and away she went. I'll bet this Honda would have responded to that treatment. Of course, it still needed new ignition components anyway.
I had a problem with my truck similar it would not crank at all first thing in the morning but if I went to start it after lunch it would fire right up. I just wiggled the wires going in to the firewall and everything has been fine
A+ Ivan,nice lesson have a nice Easter you and the Wife....
Nice use of the test light to inspect the wires and the cap. Never seeeennndd that before! I could use that trick!
Ivan I would of replaced the coil as well, hondas of that year are known for failure, the coil would be next to replace! Everything else is regular tuneup! Honda of this generation are still the best, they held up the test of time!!!
Love the video ivan!!!
Zap ⚡️ There's your problem lady...
tinkerwest This ain’t SMA Channel, and that isn’t Eric O: so what the everloving hell is it doing in my “suggested” feed?
Not quitesure what your rant is about but to make clear the reference: SMA, PHAD, NLA, etc are known and speak to each other and use each other's quips. Cheers!@@HighestRank
@@HighestRank Eric O recommended this channel in one of his videos. They might be friends. Eric O spoke highly of this man.
Good honest diag Ivan. I was troubled when you bought out the intermotor part. Here in the UK it's a lottery what's in That box. Sometimes it's gen other times it's a waste of time. 👍👍👍
You should had a look on the injectors to see if they were firing when the car was not running. The car does not need nothing. Maybe the spark plugs only. And the car was not working maybe because the ECU was not receiving RPM signal. Don't forget that on that design the spark is not controlled by the ECU. So if you have spark than you are good. You must chase other things.
That thing had to have been running extremely rough on its last day. LOL
Keith is going to have a word with you about the water bottle 😆😆😆
Super Mario Diagnostics 😂🤣
he don't know nothing [joking]
I think this is the only time Keith allows use of water. Lol.
Pico scope is a beast. It’s the only one I use now other than the uscope for quick checks. The Pico shows so much more detail than anything else.
The lesson is get yer parts at Napper (not a sponsor). Great job on going old school. One suggestion though, have a can of carb cleaner on hand to spray in the intake to help narrow the testing down.
Especially with sparks leaking out of the wires xD
Haha, yeah mate, throttle body cleaner and ignition wires arcing, would have been interesting. .
My 96 Dodge Ram had a crank but no start. Turning the key, I didn't hear the pump so I pounded on the tank and the engine started. Replaced the pump and now it runs fine.
Rick Uyeda you couldn’t find a bigger hammer, I guess.
No way I don't highly recommend a full tune-up with cap, rotor and wires to go along with the spark plugs. If the plugs are that old the rest of the ignition system is at least that old. If the cap/rotor or a spark plug wire has high resistance, they will take out that coil eventually.
Happy Easter to you and the Mrs!!! Always enjoy your videos!!!
С Пасхой! Awesome troubleshooting with test light and water spray bottle. Old school is still best school. As always, great diagnostics and tech tips. Keep on keepin' on! Ура, приятель!
Happy Easter Ivan great job, little duct tape and glue no parts required 😂😂
Back in the days of carburetors flooding was a common occurrence. Crank and spit, crank and spit. No start, just spit.
One time my brother had severe flooding in winter and it would just tease you but not start. He played with it for a couple days and actually wore out his starter.
After putting on another starter, he went away for the day. While he was gone out I did old trick I used for hard starting engines ( especially flooded ) and took all the spark plugs and gapped them at about .005 to help the electricity go across the gap easier instead of the wet insulator. That did the trick , I made it clear out then put them all back.
I didn't tell him but my dad told him to try it again " I have a good feeling about it "
He was suspicious.
This was supposed to go on Kenny's page. It ended up here.
It's such a good feeling to figure out what the problem is, get the proper parts for a 21 year old car put them in and fix the issue, these plugs are high quality but might not be the best choice for this " old school " style ignition, there high energy and produce a higher temp spark and while the car will run and drive well they might tend to set the check engine light, great job and Happy Easter to you and yours
I put Iridium plugs in everything...well maybe except my lawn mower haha never had any issues!
I would love to hear the negative comments from the6 thumbs down guys. I'm sure they are all mechanical gods!
Great work Ivan, as always.
We're all plagued by trolls, the good news is that even a thumbs down counts as an interaction and actually helps the channel lol 👍
@@SimplyDiagnostics
My Grannie used to say it doesn't matter if they are talking good about you, or bad about you. At least they are talking about you!
Great effort in troubleshooting and explanation. Awesome video! Typical young vehicle owner, drive it till it doesn't drive anymore then do breakdown maintenance!
Happy Easter - and the easiest car to change plugs on (for me, at least) was my '72 Eldorado. There was enough room between the block and the inner fenders to store a tuba.
OMFG! This video was awesome!!! You sir would be great to work with if I was an apprentice.
Thank you!
Good video,, i like your videos the best because your honest and show it all.
Rev up your engines ! Basic tune up fixed this one. Great job Ivan.
Did it? The car started on day 2 without any replaced parts.
Ivan put a can of wd-40 and a roll of 3m electrical tape in your mobile kit. Also a can of electric motor contact cleaner.
Good diagnostic approach. However, i would do the following differently:
1- check spark if its there
2- check fuel pressure by loosen bolt on top of filter then cycle key. If fuel squirts out you got sufficient peessure or spray starting fluid in air box or brake cleaner if it starts and shots off you lost fuel to the engine. Tap fuel tank with brass hammer then try to start it.
3- check mechanical timing by inspecting belt to see if it snapped. But you will notice if that is the problem because as you crank engine a distinctive noise will indicate no compression as it will crank very rapidly.
4- typical signs of main relay is that it wont run when car is hot. That means the contacts inside main relay are bad and when car cools down it then its able to start. Ask customer if that is the symptom.
I love the test light check and the water test cool video, HAPPY EASTER Ivan !!!
Nice job....Tip of day if plugs are that bad then if it has spark plug wires and cap they are for sure just as far degraded need replaced as well
Excellent troubleshooting, I learned a lot! Very cool channel.
Great job Ivan! Happy Easter! Xx
You too, Niamh!
Nicely done, Ivan. Admittedly, I'm slightly disappointed you didn't rebuild the distributor cap and spark plugs using only a matchbox car and an old shoe. But you get a pass for the holiday. ;)
Aloha Dr Ivan..Hope you and your Family had a Happy Easter..stay blessed my friend👍
Thank you!
I usually go with NGK as well but I have no problem with using Denso either if the NGKs aren’t available. Denso is quality stuff. I checked out a Chrysler 300m with a 3.5 Saturday leaking spark through a coil housing that shocked the piss out of me too. No matter how many times you’ve been got over the years it never fails to make your feet come off of the ground. At least I didn’t hit my head on the hood too. 😂
This was interesting. Kinda threw me for a loop for a bit. Those initial current ramps were so questionable, but I can understand why towards the end.
Happy Easter to you and the wife, Ivan!! Big hugs! 🤗🤗😊😊
Thanks Cuba!! You too!!
Happy Easter Cuba. To you and your daughter
Should have used brake clean and fluid film everything.
V power is the best for those cars. Cap rotor plugs and wires every 90k timing belt all u need. Got 500k on mine and still original distributor. Wonder if timing belt is still original because looks like everything else was.
on honda motors if the belt goes it will bend the valves.
Great job eliminating possible system problems and verifying the real cause. Happy Easter...(no roof fires).
My thoughts exactly. Happy Easter Ivan
Wow , nice , I got some issue with my 1990 prelude si , it cranks, and sometimes start and sometimes not, I change the fuel pump and still doing same … I going to check my sparks probably weekend ( but I was looking other videos and the year prelude s have issues with the mail relay ) probably is that but I’m lost …great job showing step by step.
Liked the old test light trick at the end to test for HT leakage. The water method was found wanting at the crunch moment.Dem sparkplugs are museum pieces.Never seen them that worn. Must have put serious pressure on the secondary hardware. Pretty good piece of detective work to decipher that one. Happy Easter !!
I never thought I'd like a distributor diag so much! The system on this Accord is definitely a lot less complicated than Toyota distributor systems of similar era.
Happy Easter! What did we learn? Scheduled maintenance matters. Very high moisture is bad for electrical systems when they are old. Does that car have a rotor? They don't like moisture once they are old! Why not use copper based anti-seize on the plugs?
Carlos Moreira You are correct. Don't understand why a full tune up was not done when the plugs were that bad. Partial tune ups seldom work for very long.
Happy Easter to you and your beautiful wife Ivan.
Like asked by another commenter I would like to know why you didn't replace the ignition rotor?Perhaps it is supplied with the distributor cap and not shown?Napa here in Canada list them separately.
@Paul Preddy Any ignition system that uses a distributor uses an ignition rotor,if only 1 ignition coil is used for more than 2 cylinders then a rotor is also required-like in the vehicle in this video.
Nicely done Ivan!
Given the condition of the plugs... I’d have bought the cap, rotor and wires too since
I hate going to the store. :-P Also iridium plugs if they are the ultra fine may not last all that long. I’ve had some worn out at 50k miles. I couldn’t tell which ones you had, but mine were the denso ultra fine.
great video... you have got balls starting spark plugs with a gun. proves your experience
good finding one over another , thnks for sharing .
what call my attention is when you remove the spark plugs at least on the camera did not looks wet of unburn fuel, I thought you were going to checck injector power as it comes from the main relay the other half on the main relay
Enjoyed the video, I have an '02 like it. I did cringe when you put the new plugs in with a power driver! Great job though. Happy Resurrection Day!
Ben N.
As did I because it was totally cringeworthy.
With the torque limit set near minimum, there would be no chance of damaging threads by over torque or cross-threading
Nice job Ivan....
Never saw that thing with the test light and the water.... Nice!!!
When it gets wet & quits, my brain always kinda goes to rotor, cap, wires.... But I am not a genius like you, so... when it dried out the next day, and starts right up.... Yeah....
Anyways, Happy Easter, best wishes to you & your family....
one of wd40's best uses! drowned everything with it, plugs, wires, inside of distributor cap, rotor, etc. probably fire right up
throttle bottle Yeah it will be catches on fires all those rubbers parts too.Wd40 is chemicals based products,why would you uses it to detect leaks that is just a stupid suggestion.
lol, "Water Displacement 40th" is what it stands for and it does exactly that especially useful for high voltage ignition systems, the propellant is CO2 (carbon dioxide) non flammable or use spray bottle type. yes you need to shake/blow/dab the excess out from inside and not leave puddles, a thin not quite dry film wont be enough to heat up and combust if at all. I'm always directly torching the stuff doing repairwork.
One of it's best uses it getting water "displaced" out of a drowned ignition system of off-road vehicles, nobody dares goes wheeling without WD40! well, unless of course they really hiking through woods and knee deep mud instead.... :)))
Well done on the plugs Ivan I'll give you $100 if you can change them that quick on a 98 V6 Camaro. Never though about using a test light to look for leaking electrons, its good to learn something new every day.
Most people with any sense without buy a 98 V6 Camaro. Just kidding Happy Easter
@@Vfh........y Not me SWMBO.
Or a first generation Sienna or Avalon. 3 hours for the back 3 plugs. 👎🏻.
Thank You! I am learning a lot from your videos...
I use the BlueDriver for pulling codes quickly from my phone. It’s a little more expensive than the elm dongles but it has enhanced DTCs and most cars it will pull and clear codes from most modules on the vehicle.
Same one that I use. Works great!
I had a Camry that did the same thing when it was raining or damp out but once it would dry out later in the day Would Start rt Up Fine!! Ended up being my Distributor Cap was Cracked a lil bit and was getting moisture in it..
This is why I love Diesels.😉😊
Haha "this should outlast the car"
Good detective work here tho thanks for sharing
Great, Great explanation and demonstration! Thank you, subscribing.
That was a lot of knowledge, Thank You ✍️