A lot of times after having the axle out of these trucks, the seals will leak. Mine for example leaked for almost an entire month. Most time, its residual oil running down the tube. The axle seals VERY seldom go back unless you really tear them up when you put the axle back in. Usually, its from the rear being overfilled. However, when they are bad, this is an EXCELLENT video on raplcement! Great job,
@Militaryboy1941 There are two sticky points. When you have to pull out the diff and you should worry about dropping it, either onto your nose or onto the floor. The second tricky area is the right seal, which is in a tight spot so you can't swing a hammer to tap it into place. So, you need to drag it into place -- you see I used a 5/8" threaded rod. Having a helper would be useful there, one person to align the seal and the other to tap the rod. My wife helped me with that. Not too difficult.
Yes, your repair will be very similar if yours is the Dana 44 like mine. Yes, taking the actuator off is necessary and pretty easy -- four 1/4" bolts and it slips off, be careful to put that sliding nut back on the same way it came off. You do need to remove the diff, but I did not mess with the pinion bearings or pinion seal. Yours may need more work if the gear wear or contact is not correct. A proper rebuild would require resetting the pinion gear preload, but I left mine alone. Good luck!
My '97 ram is leaking exactly like this. AND needs the U joint swapped too. But this is alot to try to do at my house...great vid, I could easily do this if I had the time and the space. I'll be paying someone ALOT of money to get this done...great vid.
you shouldn't need to re shim the pinion or carrier or anything. just get a chiltons manual a backlash checker and some titanium paint (80 bucks for the gauge and 5 bucks for the paint) and make sure its all in tolerance. there is a website called quad 4x4 that makes the seal driver so it goes in correctly because a "washer and a bolt" don't work very well in most cases. its not as difficult as everyone makes it just take your time and don't get angry at it have fun and save some money.
@Militaryboy1941 Yes, two. One on the right, one on the left. The one on the left wheel is close to the diff housing. The one on the right is farther to the outside, so that gear oil can spill over from the transfer case, following the intermediate axle, lubricating the right axle and it's sliding connection to the intermediate axle.
If the fluid level doesn't drop quickly then the repair can wait. Yes, overfilling can cause leakage, as can a clogged vent. You could check the vent now.
@cakomarfarms I have no experience with a spreader so if you need that I can't help much. Are you sure the teeth in the back aren't binding, and preventing the diff from seating properly? Maybe turn the axle a little to see if it will slide in better....
Pro-tip: Don't etch the bolts while they're inside the differential housing unless you wanna fill it with abrasive metal chips that blow all your seals immediately.
I'll guess it is about 40 lbs. Some people just pry it out, but don't put too much strain on the gear teeth since you don't want them to break. Some guys used a come-a-long cable winch. Yes, it needs to come out all the way. When mine came out it ended up in my lap on the ground, but I wondered if it would fall and hit me in the face. I have lots of padding in my belly so it got a very soft landing, ha ha. Try to do this as safely as you can.
@Texasmustsecede In the the part 2 video linked to this vid, I show a more reliable way of getting that right seal to take permanently. It's expensive to use a dedicated seal driver, but it works lots better.
Bad news...passenger side didn't take and is leaking again. Not a biggy as I was going to do Driver side as well, but any tricks of the trade out there go ensure it will take on this 2nd and hopefully final time? There's a couple of post on the internet out there that sometimes it takes multiple tries to get the seals to take.
@spelunkerd Yeah, that thing could cause a good bit of damage if it landed on you because you weren't paying attention. I grabbed an old pair of jeans and had them on the carrier while my dad was cranking the come along so there wouldn't be any pinching or skin digging from the ring gear when it let loose. I saw where one guy put a box inside another box, inside another box so when the carrier popped out it could land on the box and not tear anything up.
Hi there...great video!! I hired a mechanic off of craigslist and he left halfway through the job. He didn't mark the bearing caps. I see that each cap has an etched out groove on the interior side of it. My question is, is the groove that's etched go toward the diff or center on the diff or toward the wheel? I figured, that since you did this you could tell me this important piece of information. Any help would be much appreciated! Again, thanks for the great vid!
I"m sorry, it's been a couple of years and I don't remember much that isn't in the video. If the distance is off center, then they may only fit on one way. I'll check the dealers manual and get back to you tonight if I can add anything more.
I went back into Alldata and there's no detail there to help with your question. They do say that the caps may be already marked from the factory, with mating stamps on the case and each cap. I looked but didn't find those marks when I did mine.
I was wondering if the front end in your 98 would be the same as an 2001 cause I have to change the seal as well and any tips or tricks would greatly be appreciated
Also, I have a rear seal leak as well. I watched your rear seal vid also. What did you torque the 8 mm bolt down to when you replaced the post? Thanks again!
I don't think I used a torque wrench, but I do remember thinking about how difficult it would be if I broke that bolt off. So, not very tight. I've heard of some people putting a drop of locktite on it, but I was glad the bolt came out without the kind of difficulty I can have when the last guy put locktite on it before me. Of course some would argue that loosening of that bolt can be serious, too.
Oh, one other point about the rear. Many guys advise replacing both rear seals at the same time. That way, you don't have to go back in next year and do it all again.
Hey sir. I watched your following video on the right front axle seal. Where can I find the seal tool that you have for sale. Seems as if I am in need if one. Thanks.
+Chris Luna The one I used was made by Quad4X4, but it was expensive and there are other DIY options (read the thread below for others' experience). I liked the hole saw idea. But, nothing will work better than a custom machined tool.
I would really like to know how you removed the stuck ring gear assembly, .that's the problem i am facing right now. I have worked on a few that have been seated pretty good but i can't get the one i am working on now to budge.
I've heard of some having difficulty with that step. In my case it was tight but it came out pretty easily. I tried using a strap around the diff but in the end it just pried out with a pry bar, being careful to bring both ends out equally so it doesn't get wedged. In the dealers manual they describe some mechanics using an external brace that pulls it out. Fortunately I didn't have to do that. Good luck!
tony tymoszek the professional method calls for the use of a differential case spreader. The tool is used to spread the case .010" which makes it much easier to get the carrier in and out without damaging the bearing or the housing.
Part 2 goes into a lot more detail, showing various ways to do the oil seals. There's a link to part 2 in the video description, and I wouldn't be surprised if there are better demonstrations published since then. I feel your frustration, the right seal especially can be a huge challenge with a high failure rate if you don't have a custom seal driver. This is a very old video, after 7 years of trial and error I like to think I would do a better video if I had to do the same task again. I still own the truck and I haven't had to do those seals again since part 2 was completed. Read through the comments for part 2 and you'll learn various methods that viewers have tried.
@@spelunkerd How much is the installation tool? Can`t be that much. I think your approach is excellent , nice and slow with good video. Your tool making is very good . Although I have learned after years biting the bullet can save much frustration
The disc brake is removed in both, but a key thing to remember is that to get at the left you need to remove the right, but to do the right you can leave the left in place.
Just a tip: while you have it apart check for pitting on the shafts where the oil seal surface sits on the axleshaft.Oil can leak past a perfectly new oil seal if there is the slightest of pitting on the surface.
Ah yes, the anxiety of anybody who tries to do it himself rather than hiring a pro. A very wise professional I know made the remark once that DIY auto repair is not worth it, factoring in all the misadventures and the risk of causing harm. I can say that I have been brave enough to get myself into trouble more often than I would like to admit. But even on those occasions, measuring wisdom gained, I came out better for it. So, the decision is yours.
I've got the 2001 with a drip on the left side. Looks very similar, if not exactly ? the same ? I'll probably replace the wheel bearings also. I've got a different video for that.
@Texasmustsecede I'm sorry to hear that. Pulling in that passenger seal is a two man job, one guy underneath holding the large washer in place and the second banging that rod out. It would be easier if you had a slide hammer, and a washer that fits exactly. It did work when I used a scrap block of wood with a hole in it that slides over the rod, held in place by a nut and washer. You hammer on that wood and the seal is dragged into place. The axle tube need to be clean to accept the seal.
@cakomarfarms Oh, one other thought. Remember that the right intermediate axle is in the way, so you need to put the diff back first, then replace the intermediate axle. Just as that axle has to be out before removal of the diff, it has to be out before it is replaced. After the diff is replaced then the intermediate axle is put into place. The above may be obvious to you but it may a useful reminder to others.
@Kamasutra6901 I know. Prying it out is pretty easy, using various methods, even just a screwdriver to pry it out. The hard part is to position yourself in such a way that you do not drop the diff onto the concrete floor and really screw things up. That thing is heavy, and if it falls when you are not ready to catch it, you could chip a tooth from one of those gears.
Hi Spelunkerd, I have no idea how this reply stuff works. As best as I can tell, it doesn't. From your video, which I just viewed, there is a gray bunch of goop that is on the outside of the diff bearings towards the tubes. I have the same thing except I blew away the driver side gunk knocking out the seal. Anyway, I cannot find anything about this stuff and I was hoping you had an idea what it is, how important it is, etc. As of now, I am going to squeeze in some Permatex gear oil RTV in there and call it good. Thanks for the interest. Rick
Not an easy job. But duable. I used a door hole cutting saw blade - no teeth. Straight threaded bar and some oak wood to pull them in place. Be careful not to hit new seals with anything. Your tool or the axle. Works great. FYI
The fit is so exact that small variance in the design of an individual bolt could tilt the gears and bearings slightly, compared to the way it went together before. That could lead to variance in pressure points, possibly resulting in premature failure. So, best practice is to try and exactly reproduce what was there before -- it probably would make no difference, but there is no reason to be careless. I didn't find any shims.
I know this is old but the shims are under the carrier bearings. If you replace the ring, you will need to pull the bearings off the carrier each time you need to adjust the side to side of the carrier.
Vent is clear, and I'll just keep an eye on the level and the 'drips' for the next week. If it gets too bad (problem is I don't drive around much!), then I'm gonna' go for it. Comments about DIY and the results duly noted - and I would agree with you and your experiences - nothing ventured, nothing gained. This is how we learn and grow as individuals - trying things that are challenging! Thanks for all your help!
Great video - appreciated the info - I have been needing to do this to my 97 Ram 4X4 which is essentially the same. I was going under the impression that it could be done by just pulling out the axles and tapping the seals in from the OUTSIDE! WRONG! I am a bit fearful of removing the diff - worried about changing the geometry and setups for the gears, but I think that by doing what you did - making sure caps and screws go back in the same place, it will be OK. Any shims to worry about?
Re: Brandon B. The gear oil that comes from this shaft has a distinctive smell and viscosity, very different than brake fluid which also could drip in that area. If you've never done it before, get a few drops of each of the automotive fluids (ATF, gear oil, motor oil, brake fluid, washer fluid, coolant, water) and compare their appearance on your concrete floor. Typically the fluid from this shaft drips onto the inner sidewall of the tire.
@deeznutz977 The seal for the front right is National 710241. The front left is different, I don't have that written down. If you go for OEM parts then the number and manufacturer will be different. My parts dealer had no difficulty giving me the part number. Remember it's the Dana 44 axle.
Sir I have a 96 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.9 ,IM TRYING TO DO EXACTLY WAT U DID BUT AFTER TAKIN THE BEARING CAPS OFF I NOTICE MY DIFFERENTIAL CUPS ARE OVERLAPING ON EACH SIDE OVER THE CASING .WHICH WONT ALOUD ME TO PULL STRAIGHT BACK LIKE U DID WIT A STRAP . I BELIEVE I DONT HAVE ANY WAY TO BRING THEM IN TO CLEAR THE CASING IN ORDER TO PULL DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY STRAIGHT BACK OUT LIKE U DID.
I am doing the same thing but I have to replace the hole axle on the left side so im going to replace all seals while Im at it. I was wondering if I have to take the 4 wheel drive acutater off to take the passenger side axle out in order to do this?and do u have to take the pinion gears out to repace the seals?your advice will be appreciated. thanks
Why not post every step and show where each seal goes and the complete process of installing them. appreciate all the efforts on everyone's part in posting but with this project? I'm going to post the entire video step by step when I do mine. Trust me, you will need it.
Good for you, I sincerely wish you the best. TH-cam is all about raising the bar, each guy does a little more, and before you know it there's a wealth of information. I grew up in an age before this platform, and it was so much more difficult to get reliable info. Problem is, unless you're a good entertainer, people are quick to click away. If you get too many people losing interest or looking elsewhere, the algorithm notices and the video ends up on page 5 of a google search. I knew right from the start that I don't have the personality that captivates a room. I admire guys who do! So, even in this 12 year old video, I cut to what I felt were the important bits. There's no way I could hold everybody's attention for an hour.
@spelunkerd Ok, maybe a dumb question, but is there a bearing that needs to be replaced where the intermediate shaft comes out in the CAD? Any other bearings near the axle shaft tubes in the Diff to look at? I looked at the exploded diagrams but wanted to get your two cents.
Dana 60 is different, so you need to research it more before proceeding. I've never done a Dana 60, but some of the Dodge forums and youtube have directions for you.
and how difficult are the seals? i mean you made it look easy but in seriousness was it difficult? and im not worried about the u joints if i can get the axle out i can bring it to a machine shop and have them pull them
I worded that badly didn't I. Of course what I meant to say was that swapping bolts might make a difference, and I didn't want anything to tip the diff, even slightly, in the housing. I used an engraving tool, numbering the bolts 1-4 and the location, but any indelible marker would probably do the same task. After they were out, I saw that they all seemed identical. I didn't mean to imply that they were all turned to exactly the same angle -- the torque wrench did that part.
Mine had no shims but yours may be different. Read the comments in this thread and you will come across some people who needed a diff spreader to open the pumpkin wide enough for the gears to slide out, but mine came out fine with some muscle. Make sure you watch part 2, and read all the comments. There s a video response posted here that shows an interesting way to deal with that right seal, rather than buying a custom driver.
If you mean leaking from the rear diff cover plate or drain, the critical point is to not let it get too low. The worst think would be to overheat bearings requiring a rebuild of the diff. So, check the fluid level regularly. If it's the pinion seal, check the air vent to be sure it's not blocked. If it's the axle seal, if you leave it too long, you will get oil on drum brake pads and they may need to be replaced if contaminated.
You guys will not show me No videos on how to replace a 1999 dodge Durango front half shaft. It doesn't matter how I word it. What's up with that??????
You're using the wrong Google search terms. Try "Dodge Durango 1999 Front Axle CV Joint". At least two videos pop up right away. You'll find that many of these are very similar, so lessons learned with one apply to many other models. The main issue you need to decide is whether your mechanical skills and tools are up to the challenge. Complications (like broken or crossthreaded bolts) often happen to those with inadequate tools and limited experience. It's a fairly inexpensive repair in the hands of an independent pro.
ive got a 91 ram with a dana 44 in front, but that friggen CDS access hole is on top not on the side, terrible design, cant get at it all all, just need eyes on my fingertips I guess
@Militaryboy1941 The U joints are tricky because they are not so easy to take apart, and if you haven't done it before you may struggle. I used a C-clamp designed to take apart those U-joints, and air tools. With the right tools it is easy the SECOND time, and if you watch some youtube videos you'll get an idea of how to do it (sometimes the hard way, and sometimes the wrong way, ha ha). Probably a 6 if you have a good shop, 8 if you don't. Next time I do a U joint I'll do a video.
@deeznutz977 Yes. But you should double check with your parts dealer for your exact model. Lots of companies make generic parts, and your dealer may work with a different manufacturer.
I didn't need one, and I believe most have the same experience. I was thinking that if I needed one I would stop and ask for professional help, but it wasn't needed in my case. On the forums some guys talk about building their own spreader. If it is tipped even a little when you try to remove it, then it might seem impossible.
I believe so, the design of this axle is longstanding. For more reliable information, it would be wise to gain access to a dealers repair manual. I use online sources like alldatadiy and mitchelldiy.
I can't speak for your drivetrain, but on my 216 FBI diff the capacity is 2.3 L of 80W90 gear oil, API GL-5. From a practical perspective, I bought a 4-liter container of 80W90 gear oil, and add fluid until it comes out the bottom of the fill hole when the vehicle is on a level surface and on the ground. You should have record of what type of diff fluid is appropriate for your vehicle in your owners manual.
@RODMMM I don't know. McCuistan here on youtube posted a really good video showing how to do a rear diff seal. He counted turns with the pinion nut, trying to exactly reproduce the nut position rather than reproducing torque. The other good point he makes is to check the axle vent tube to see if it may be blocked, causing pressure on that seal, so the new seal will last longer.
@Texasmustsecede I yanked (with my arm) on that blue sling that I had wrapped around the diff. You could also use a prybar to get it out, either by prying on the sling or directly on the diff. Be careful not to drop it, and not to break a tooth, either on the diff or in your mouth if you are underneath (grin). It weighs about 25 pounds.
I doubt I'll ever be in that diff again but if I do, I'll video that. The diff is very heavy, and I was alone so video was problematic. Or, when you do it you can pay it forward, and video your effort. I didn't reshim because superficial inspection was fine. But I replaced everything EXACTLY as it was. To remove the axle seal on the left side I just slid a wooden pole down the axle tube from the tire side and it popped out with one tap.
@Militaryboy1941 The C clamp kit I used for my universal joints is similar to the one that is advertised on the Harbour Freight website. Search "four wheel drive ball joint service kit". There are other ways to do those, ranging from a cutting torch all the way to a huge hammer on a cinder block. Having tried different methods, I think the C clamp is way better. I don't like anything that could damage the ears or shaft of the UJ.
Yes, but it's deep in the tube and I never saw it. I think it's pressed against the diff housing, though there is no seal there. Lubricating oil flows in that tube back and forth from the diff to the CAD housing.
@blmkrdave Altogether it was about 6 hours, Friday evening and Saturday morning. Fortunately nothing more needed to be done. If I had to do it again I could do it much faster. The bearings etc were fine.
@tampica21 I'm sorry, when I went over this again I realized that my choice of words was not perfect. The bearing caps are two U shaped straps of steel, about 3/4" wide, one on each side, with two big bolts holding each in place. The order you take them out is not important, but you want to put them back in exactly the way they were before. So, mark the caps, so they don't go in upside down or swapped. I'll send you a photo.
@TheJaime575 By the way, in case anybody didn't watch the whole video, remember that the right wheel and intermediate axle has to be removed to get the diff out. That intermediate shaft (on the right side) holds the diff in place, so there is no way the diff will come out until that intermediate shaft is pulled back. It's a funky design if you just want to replace the left seal.
To do the left you need to remove the right axle, so I would do both at the same time if I were to do it again. Make sure you watch both videos and also watch video responses to get an idea of other options. There are some very good suggestions in the comments section of both videos. Also some eyeopening complications.... Regarding your question as to whether it is the same, probably but I'm not sure. A good manual is always wise, I use Alldata and a dealers manual. Good luck!
I don't remember. If you want the exact custom tool, go to the quad4X4 website and look it up for your engine. It's pretty expensive to use a custom seal driver.
@EFSOutdoors Thank you for your important remark. Indeed, the tubes are long enough that some residual oil on the outside is unavoidable. And I believe it is possible that microscopic leaks may seal over spontaneously, with time, especially if the pumpkin is overfilled. The challenge if watching a slow leak is to remember to keep checking the level, to be sure it doesn't lose enough oil to cause harm.
Guys, have a look at the video response by Jmwtedder. I've been waiting to find somebody who makes a seal driver from a 2" drill bit, and he's done it. He says he's planning on doing his repair in the next little while, and so I'm looking forward to watching part 2.
@pyhiG Likewise, thank you for your comment! From the other perspective, I think most mechanics are very honest, and I'm sure they feel misunderstood and needlessly mistrusted. If I mistrust anybody, it's the guys in the front offices, who face pressure from all angles. Alldata have labour estimates for most jobs, and I can tell you that I would have trouble getting this task done in their estimated time. Showing how difficult this can be may be good for the industry.
@marydawnirene You're welcome, I'm glad it helped. It is a lot easier the second time around, I guess like a lot of other problems in life. Did the 4WD light problem start after you changed the seals?
Gee, I don't remember any problem with that. Gears need to mesh so you may need to turn the shaft a little so teeth are lined up. It's been so long I don't think I can offer any more.
If you haven't changed anything then there will be no need for adjusting backlash, pinion torque, or L/R position. This is why it is really important to put all washers and hardware back in the exact same position as they came out. The main problem I often have is not sealing the back cover plate properly. Mine tend to leak, presumably due to a lack of RTV around bolts and bolt holes.
Splines on each shaft, the sliding nut is internally splined as well. The nut slides into place by the vacuum actuated fork and both shafts move as one. Elegantly simple.
Anything not in the video is lost. Part numbers are different when comparing generic to OEM, so best to ask your parts man to hook you up. I'd go with OEM for that seal, it is made with very specific tolerances, and easy to mess up.
Hi again Spelunkerd - sorry to be a pest .. I checked my factory repair manual and it shows having to use a 'spreader' in order to remove the diff gear cluster (is that a 'pumpkin?'). I am NOT happy about this and wonder if it's ALWAYS necessary, and is there any way NOT to use it? Shows one can only 'spread' it .020" and that's not much - being an old machinist I recognize how seriously tight that tolerance is - and don't want to hurt anything. Opinions? Thanks again for your help!
A lot of times after having the axle out of these trucks, the seals will leak. Mine for example leaked for almost an entire month. Most time, its residual oil running down the tube. The axle seals VERY seldom go back unless you really tear them up when you put the axle back in. Usually, its from the rear being overfilled. However, when they are bad, this is an EXCELLENT video on raplcement! Great job,
great video man, I love the fact that u include the torque specs for everything
@Militaryboy1941 There are two sticky points. When you have to pull out the diff and you should worry about dropping it, either onto your nose or onto the floor. The second tricky area is the right seal, which is in a tight spot so you can't swing a hammer to tap it into place. So, you need to drag it into place -- you see I used a 5/8" threaded rod. Having a helper would be useful there, one person to align the seal and the other to tap the rod. My wife helped me with that. Not too difficult.
Yes, your repair will be very similar if yours is the Dana 44 like mine. Yes, taking the actuator off is necessary and pretty easy -- four 1/4" bolts and it slips off, be careful to put that sliding nut back on the same way it came off. You do need to remove the diff, but I did not mess with the pinion bearings or pinion seal. Yours may need more work if the gear wear or contact is not correct. A proper rebuild would require resetting the pinion gear preload, but I left mine alone. Good luck!
My '97 ram is leaking exactly like this. AND needs the U joint swapped too. But this is alot to try to do at my house...great vid, I could easily do this if I had the time and the space. I'll be paying someone ALOT of money to get this done...great vid.
you shouldn't need to re shim the pinion or carrier or anything. just get a chiltons manual a backlash checker and some titanium paint (80 bucks for the gauge and 5 bucks for the paint) and make sure its all in tolerance. there is a website called quad 4x4 that makes the seal driver so it goes in correctly because a "washer and a bolt" don't work very well in most cases. its not as difficult as everyone makes it just take your time and don't get angry at it have fun and save some money.
@Militaryboy1941
Yes, two. One on the right, one on the left. The one on the left wheel is close to the diff housing. The one on the right is farther to the outside, so that gear oil can spill over from the transfer case, following the intermediate axle, lubricating the right axle and it's sliding connection to the intermediate axle.
Thank you for posting such an informative video. It helped a lot.
If the fluid level doesn't drop quickly then the repair can wait. Yes, overfilling can cause leakage, as can a clogged vent. You could check the vent now.
I used a 2” pvc test cap sandwiched between 2 thick washers.and it worked great
@cakomarfarms I have no experience with a spreader so if you need that I can't help much. Are you sure the teeth in the back aren't binding, and preventing the diff from seating properly? Maybe turn the axle a little to see if it will slide in better....
@TheJaime575 I used the strap and a prybar, but some here used a come-along winch.
Pro-tip: Don't etch the bolts while they're inside the differential housing unless you wanna fill it with abrasive metal chips that blow all your seals immediately.
I'll guess it is about 40 lbs. Some people just pry it out, but don't put too much strain on the gear teeth since you don't want them to break. Some guys used a come-a-long cable winch. Yes, it needs to come out all the way. When mine came out it ended up in my lap on the ground, but I wondered if it would fall and hit me in the face. I have lots of padding in my belly so it got a very soft landing, ha ha. Try to do this as safely as you can.
@Texasmustsecede In the the part 2 video linked to this vid, I show a more reliable way of getting that right seal to take permanently. It's expensive to use a dedicated seal driver, but it works lots better.
Bad news...passenger side didn't take and is leaking again. Not a biggy as I was going to do Driver side as well, but any tricks of the trade out there go ensure it will take on this 2nd and hopefully final time? There's a couple of post on the internet out there that sometimes it takes multiple tries to get the seals to take.
Cool you have a Butterfly impact gun, I have been looking into buying one of those
great video did you pull the differential out with that strap and it came out in 1 piece or was there more to it cuz im having trouble removing mine
@spelunkerd Yeah, that thing could cause a good bit of damage if it landed on you because you weren't paying attention. I grabbed an old pair of jeans and had them on the carrier while my dad was cranking the come along so there wouldn't be any pinching or skin digging from the ring gear when it let loose.
I saw where one guy put a box inside another box, inside another box so when the carrier popped out it could land on the box and not tear anything up.
Thanks a lot this vid made my day and saved me some money...
Hi there...great video!!
I hired a mechanic off of craigslist and he left halfway through the job. He didn't mark the bearing caps. I see that each cap has an etched out groove on the interior side of it. My question is, is the groove that's etched go toward the diff or center on the diff or toward the wheel? I figured, that since you did this you could tell me this important piece of information. Any help would be much appreciated! Again, thanks for the great vid!
I"m sorry, it's been a couple of years and I don't remember much that isn't in the video. If the distance is off center, then they may only fit on one way. I'll check the dealers manual and get back to you tonight if I can add anything more.
I went back into Alldata and there's no detail there to help with your question. They do say that the caps may be already marked from the factory, with mating stamps on the case and each cap. I looked but didn't find those marks when I did mine.
I was wondering if the front end in your 98 would be the same as an 2001 cause I have to change the seal as well and any tips or tricks would greatly be appreciated
Also, I have a rear seal leak as well. I watched your rear seal vid also. What did you torque the 8 mm bolt down to when you replaced the post? Thanks again!
I don't think I used a torque wrench, but I do remember thinking about how difficult it would be if I broke that bolt off. So, not very tight. I've heard of some people putting a drop of locktite on it, but I was glad the bolt came out without the kind of difficulty I can have when the last guy put locktite on it before me. Of course some would argue that loosening of that bolt can be serious, too.
Oh, one other point about the rear. Many guys advise replacing both rear seals at the same time. That way, you don't have to go back in next year and do it all again.
Hello,how much fluid do you put in & what kind?i have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4,318(5.2L) Engine.
Awesome video.
@MrAstrokidd Thank you.
were did u buy the axle seal driver tool
Hey sir. I watched your following video on the right front axle seal. Where can I find the seal tool that you have for sale. Seems as if I am in need if one. Thanks.
+Chris Luna The one I used was made by Quad4X4, but it was expensive and there are other DIY options (read the thread below for others' experience). I liked the hole saw idea. But, nothing will work better than a custom machined tool.
@jonolds92 Sorry, I don't know.
I would really like to know how you removed the stuck ring gear assembly, .that's the problem i am facing right now. I have worked on a few that have been seated pretty good but i can't get the one i am working on now to budge.
I've heard of some having difficulty with that step. In my case it was tight but it came out pretty easily. I tried using a strap around the diff but in the end it just pried out with a pry bar, being careful to bring both ends out equally so it doesn't get wedged. In the dealers manual they describe some mechanics using an external brace that pulls it out. Fortunately I didn't have to do that. Good luck!
tony tymoszek the professional method calls for the use of a differential case spreader. The tool is used to spread the case .010" which makes it much easier to get the carrier in and out without damaging the bearing or the housing.
Yes, excellent response, thanks for chiming in.
You can make a spreader with 2 pieces of iron angle and 2 rods from Home Depot
Nice I like great job.
Thanks!
No one cares about the diff cover or putting oil in the diff! why didnt you show how to install the oil seals in?????
Part 2 goes into a lot more detail, showing various ways to do the oil seals. There's a link to part 2 in the video description, and I wouldn't be surprised if there are better demonstrations published since then. I feel your frustration, the right seal especially can be a huge challenge with a high failure rate if you don't have a custom seal driver. This is a very old video, after 7 years of trial and error I like to think I would do a better video if I had to do the same task again. I still own the truck and I haven't had to do those seals again since part 2 was completed. Read through the comments for part 2 and you'll learn various methods that viewers have tried.
@@spelunkerd How much is the installation tool? Can`t be that much. I think your approach is excellent , nice and slow with good video. Your tool making is very good . Although I have learned after years biting the bullet can save much frustration
The disc brake is removed in both, but a key thing to remember is that to get at the left you need to remove the right, but to do the right you can leave the left in place.
Just a tip: while you have it apart check for pitting on the shafts where the oil seal surface sits on the axleshaft.Oil can leak past a perfectly new oil seal if there is the slightest of pitting on the surface.
Ah yes, the anxiety of anybody who tries to do it himself rather than hiring a pro. A very wise professional I know made the remark once that DIY auto repair is not worth it, factoring in all the misadventures and the risk of causing harm. I can say that I have been brave enough to get myself into trouble more often than I would like to admit. But even on those occasions, measuring wisdom gained, I came out better for it.
So, the decision is yours.
I've got the 2001 with a drip on the left side. Looks very similar, if not exactly ? the same ? I'll probably replace the wheel bearings also. I've got a different video for that.
@Texasmustsecede I'm sorry to hear that. Pulling in that passenger seal is a two man job, one guy underneath holding the large washer in place and the second banging that rod out. It would be easier if you had a slide hammer, and a washer that fits exactly. It did work when I used a scrap block of wood with a hole in it that slides over the rod, held in place by a nut and washer. You hammer on that wood and the seal is dragged into place. The axle tube need to be clean to accept the seal.
@cakomarfarms Oh, one other thought. Remember that the right intermediate axle is in the way, so you need to put the diff back first, then replace the intermediate axle. Just as that axle has to be out before removal of the diff, it has to be out before it is replaced. After the diff is replaced then the intermediate axle is put into place. The above may be obvious to you but it may a useful reminder to others.
@Kamasutra6901 I know. Prying it out is pretty easy, using various methods, even just a screwdriver to pry it out. The hard part is to position yourself in such a way that you do not drop the diff onto the concrete floor and really screw things up. That thing is heavy, and if it falls when you are not ready to catch it, you could chip a tooth from one of those gears.
Hi Spelunkerd, I have no idea how this reply stuff works. As best as I can tell, it doesn't. From your video, which I just viewed, there is a gray bunch of goop that is on the outside of the diff bearings towards the tubes. I have the same thing except I blew away the driver side gunk knocking out the seal. Anyway, I cannot find anything about this stuff and I was hoping you had an idea what it is, how important it is, etc. As of now, I am going to squeeze in some Permatex gear oil RTV in there and call it good. Thanks for the interest. Rick
Not an easy job. But duable. I used a door hole cutting saw blade - no teeth. Straight threaded bar and some oak wood to pull them in place. Be careful not to hit new seals with anything. Your tool or the axle. Works great. FYI
The fit is so exact that small variance in the design of an individual bolt could tilt the gears and bearings slightly, compared to the way it went together before. That could lead to variance in pressure points, possibly resulting in premature failure. So, best practice is to try and exactly reproduce what was there before -- it probably would make no difference, but there is no reason to be careless. I didn't find any shims.
I know this is old but the shims are under the carrier bearings. If you replace the ring, you will need to pull the bearings off the carrier each time you need to adjust the side to side of the carrier.
Vent is clear, and I'll just keep an eye on the level and the 'drips' for the next week. If it gets too bad (problem is I don't drive around much!), then I'm gonna' go for it. Comments about DIY and the results duly noted - and I would agree with you and your experiences - nothing ventured, nothing gained. This is how we learn and grow as individuals - trying things that are challenging! Thanks for all your help!
Your video help a lot thanks
Great video - appreciated the info - I have been needing to do this to my 97 Ram 4X4 which is essentially the same. I was going under the impression that it could be done by just pulling out the axles and tapping the seals in from the OUTSIDE! WRONG! I am a bit fearful of removing the diff - worried about changing the geometry and setups for the gears, but I think that by doing what you did - making sure caps and screws go back in the same place, it will be OK. Any shims to worry about?
Re: Brandon B. The gear oil that comes from this shaft has a distinctive smell and viscosity, very different than brake fluid which also could drip in that area. If you've never done it before, get a few drops of each of the automotive fluids (ATF, gear oil, motor oil, brake fluid, washer fluid, coolant, water) and compare their appearance on your concrete floor. Typically the fluid from this shaft drips onto the inner sidewall of the tire.
@deeznutz977 The seal for the front right is National 710241. The front left is different, I don't have that written down. If you go for OEM parts then the number and manufacturer will be different. My parts dealer had no difficulty giving me the part number. Remember it's the Dana 44 axle.
Sir I have a 96 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.9 ,IM TRYING TO DO EXACTLY WAT U DID BUT AFTER TAKIN THE BEARING CAPS OFF I NOTICE MY DIFFERENTIAL CUPS ARE OVERLAPING ON EACH SIDE OVER THE CASING .WHICH WONT ALOUD ME TO PULL STRAIGHT BACK LIKE U DID WIT A STRAP . I BELIEVE I DONT HAVE ANY WAY TO BRING THEM IN TO CLEAR THE CASING IN ORDER TO PULL DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY STRAIGHT BACK OUT LIKE U DID.
I am doing the same thing but I have to replace the hole axle on the left side so im going to replace all seals while Im at it. I was wondering if I have to take the 4 wheel drive acutater off to take the passenger side axle out in order to do this?and do u have to take the pinion gears out to repace the seals?your advice will be appreciated. thanks
Why not post every step and show where each seal goes and the complete process of installing them. appreciate all the efforts on everyone's part in posting but with this project? I'm going to post the entire video step by step when I do mine. Trust me, you will need it.
Good for you, I sincerely wish you the best. TH-cam is all about raising the bar, each guy does a little more, and before you know it there's a wealth of information. I grew up in an age before this platform, and it was so much more difficult to get reliable info. Problem is, unless you're a good entertainer, people are quick to click away. If you get too many people losing interest or looking elsewhere, the algorithm notices and the video ends up on page 5 of a google search. I knew right from the start that I don't have the personality that captivates a room. I admire guys who do! So, even in this 12 year old video, I cut to what I felt were the important bits. There's no way I could hold everybody's attention for an hour.
@spelunkerd Ok, maybe a dumb question, but is there a bearing that needs to be replaced where the intermediate shaft comes out in the CAD? Any other bearings near the axle shaft tubes in the Diff to look at? I looked at the exploded diagrams but wanted to get your two cents.
Dana 60 is different, so you need to research it more before proceeding. I've never done a Dana 60, but some of the Dodge forums and youtube have directions for you.
and how difficult are the seals? i mean you made it look easy but in seriousness was it difficult? and im not worried about the u joints if i can get the axle out i can bring it to a machine shop and have them pull them
I worded that badly didn't I. Of course what I meant to say was that swapping bolts might make a difference, and I didn't want anything to tip the diff, even slightly, in the housing. I used an engraving tool, numbering the bolts 1-4 and the location, but any indelible marker would probably do the same task. After they were out, I saw that they all seemed identical. I didn't mean to imply that they were all turned to exactly the same angle -- the torque wrench did that part.
Mine had no shims but yours may be different. Read the comments in this thread and you will come across some people who needed a diff spreader to open the pumpkin wide enough for the gears to slide out, but mine came out fine with some muscle. Make sure you watch part 2, and read all the comments. There s a video response posted here that shows an interesting way to deal with that right seal, rather than buying a custom driver.
If you mean leaking from the rear diff cover plate or drain, the critical point is to not let it get too low. The worst think would be to overheat bearings requiring a rebuild of the diff. So, check the fluid level regularly. If it's the pinion seal, check the air vent to be sure it's not blocked. If it's the axle seal, if you leave it too long, you will get oil on drum brake pads and they may need to be replaced if contaminated.
You guys will not show me No videos on how to replace a 1999 dodge Durango front half shaft. It doesn't matter how I word it. What's up with that??????
You're using the wrong Google search terms. Try "Dodge Durango 1999 Front Axle CV Joint". At least two videos pop up right away. You'll find that many of these are very similar, so lessons learned with one apply to many other models. The main issue you need to decide is whether your mechanical skills and tools are up to the challenge. Complications (like broken or crossthreaded bolts) often happen to those with inadequate tools and limited experience. It's a fairly inexpensive repair in the hands of an independent pro.
ive got a 91 ram with a dana 44 in front, but that friggen CDS access hole is on top not on the side, terrible design, cant get at it all all, just need eyes on my fingertips I guess
@Militaryboy1941
The U joints are tricky because they are not so easy to take apart, and if you haven't done it before you may struggle. I used a C-clamp designed to take apart those U-joints, and air tools. With the right tools it is easy the SECOND time, and if you watch some youtube videos you'll get an idea of how to do it (sometimes the hard way, and sometimes the wrong way, ha ha). Probably a 6 if you have a good shop, 8 if you don't. Next time I do a U joint I'll do a video.
@deeznutz977 Yes. But you should double check with your parts dealer for your exact model. Lots of companies make generic parts, and your dealer may work with a different manufacturer.
I didn't need one, and I believe most have the same experience. I was thinking that if I needed one I would stop and ask for professional help, but it wasn't needed in my case. On the forums some guys talk about building their own spreader. If it is tipped even a little when you try to remove it, then it might seem impossible.
Both of my axle seals are out on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, will this method work for my vehicle as well?
I believe so, the design of this axle is longstanding. For more reliable information, it would be wise to gain access to a dealers repair manual. I use online sources like alldatadiy and mitchelldiy.
I can't speak for your drivetrain, but on my 216 FBI diff the capacity is 2.3 L of 80W90 gear oil, API GL-5. From a practical perspective, I bought a 4-liter container of 80W90 gear oil, and add fluid until it comes out the bottom of the fill hole when the vehicle is on a level surface and on the ground. You should have record of what type of diff fluid is appropriate for your vehicle in your owners manual.
@RODMMM I don't know. McCuistan here on youtube posted a really good video showing how to do a rear diff seal. He counted turns with the pinion nut, trying to exactly reproduce the nut position rather than reproducing torque. The other good point he makes is to check the axle vent tube to see if it may be blocked, causing pressure on that seal, so the new seal will last longer.
@Texasmustsecede I yanked (with my arm) on that blue sling that I had wrapped around the diff. You could also use a prybar to get it out, either by prying on the sling or directly on the diff. Be careful not to drop it, and not to break a tooth, either on the diff or in your mouth if you are underneath (grin). It weighs about 25 pounds.
I doubt I'll ever be in that diff again but if I do, I'll video that. The diff is very heavy, and I was alone so video was problematic. Or, when you do it you can pay it forward, and video your effort.
I didn't reshim because superficial inspection was fine. But I replaced everything EXACTLY as it was. To remove the axle seal on the left side I just slid a wooden pole down the axle tube from the tire side and it popped out with one tap.
@Militaryboy1941
The C clamp kit I used for my universal joints is similar to the one that is advertised on the Harbour Freight website. Search "four wheel drive ball joint service kit". There are other ways to do those, ranging from a cutting torch all the way to a huge hammer on a cinder block. Having tried different methods, I think the C clamp is way better. I don't like anything that could damage the ears or shaft of the UJ.
@KeepItRoostin658 80W90, grade API GL-5, about 2 1/2 liters. Check your owner's manual to be sure.
is this the rear axle or front ?
Yes, but it's deep in the tube and I never saw it. I think it's pressed against the diff housing, though there is no seal there. Lubricating oil flows in that tube back and forth from the diff to the CAD housing.
why do those four bolts or nuts have to go back on the same way they came off on the differential and is that shimmed...?
@blmkrdave Altogether it was about 6 hours, Friday evening and Saturday morning. Fortunately nothing more needed to be done. If I had to do it again I could do it much faster. The bearings etc were fine.
@tampica21 I'm sorry, when I went over this again I realized that my choice of words was not perfect. The bearing caps are two U shaped straps of steel, about 3/4" wide, one on each side, with two big bolts holding each in place. The order you take them out is not important, but you want to put them back in exactly the way they were before. So, mark the caps, so they don't go in upside down or swapped. I'll send you a photo.
Dude! You have ideal how much money you saved me by sharing this video, you my man are a God sent, thank you for taking the time to film this.
@TheJaime575 By the way, in case anybody didn't watch the whole video, remember that the right wheel and intermediate axle has to be removed to get the diff out. That intermediate shaft (on the right side) holds the diff in place, so there is no way the diff will come out until that intermediate shaft is pulled back. It's a funky design if you just want to replace the left seal.
To do the left you need to remove the right axle, so I would do both at the same time if I were to do it again. Make sure you watch both videos and also watch video responses to get an idea of other options. There are some very good suggestions in the comments section of both videos. Also some eyeopening complications....
Regarding your question as to whether it is the same, probably but I'm not sure. A good manual is always wise, I use Alldata and a dealers manual. Good luck!
The part number for the left seal that I used is is PartsMaster PM 5131 repl.C/R 13165.
@Texasmustsecede You're the second guy who said he used a ratchet strap/come-along. Good idea.
I don't remember. If you want the exact custom tool, go to the quad4X4 website and look it up for your engine. It's pretty expensive to use a custom seal driver.
@EFSOutdoors Thank you for your important remark. Indeed, the tubes are long enough that some residual oil on the outside is unavoidable. And I believe it is possible that microscopic leaks may seal over spontaneously, with time, especially if the pumpkin is overfilled. The challenge if watching a slow leak is to remember to keep checking the level, to be sure it doesn't lose enough oil to cause harm.
Hello is the same thing to change oil seal on Dana 60 on my Dodge ram 2500 1998? Thank you
Guys, have a look at the video response by Jmwtedder. I've been waiting to find somebody who makes a seal driver from a 2" drill bit, and he's done it. He says he's planning on doing his repair in the next little while, and so I'm looking forward to watching part 2.
Absolutely loved the disclaimer at the end. In this world ya gotta cover your ass man! Thanks!
👍👍
@pyhiG Likewise, thank you for your comment!
From the other perspective, I think most mechanics are very honest, and I'm sure they feel misunderstood and needlessly mistrusted. If I mistrust anybody, it's the guys in the front offices, who face pressure from all angles.
Alldata have labour estimates for most jobs, and I can tell you that I would have trouble getting this task done in their estimated time. Showing how difficult this can be may be good for the industry.
I read that as well....there are some marks but they don't match up with the marks on the caps. Thank you for all your help!
excuse me again, is the same thing on left than right, you remove the disc brake ?
@marydawnirene You're welcome, I'm glad it helped. It is a lot easier the second time around, I guess like a lot of other problems in life. Did the 4WD light problem start after you changed the seals?
Any tips on reinstalling the intermediate shaft? Been the hardest part of the job for me
Gee, I don't remember any problem with that. Gears need to mesh so you may need to turn the shaft a little so teeth are lined up. It's been so long I don't think I can offer any more.
@DodgeMan360 That must be hard. Be sure to watch the part 2 video, which would be easier to do blind.
@ckdna1 I hope it works out for you. If it's Dana 44 it should be very similar.
@Texasmustsecede No bearing there, just what you see in the video.
Hey my 2001 ram has a big puddle coming from it's driver side wheel could this be it?
When putting the differential back in is there anything I need to know or do?
If you haven't changed anything then there will be no need for adjusting backlash, pinion torque, or L/R position. This is why it is really important to put all washers and hardware back in the exact same position as they came out. The main problem I often have is not sealing the back cover plate properly. Mine tend to leak, presumably due to a lack of RTV around bolts and bolt holes.
What is that gray rtv looking stuff on the case side of the diff bearing?
If you give me a time stamp for when you see it, I'll have a look.
That's a very good thought. I've seen emery cloth used to smooth out metal burs that could tear up a new seal, as well.
@V8mo50 Mine looked fine so there was no need.
You literally skip how the intermediate shaft locks in.
Splines on each shaft, the sliding nut is internally splined as well. The nut slides into place by the vacuum actuated fork and both shafts move as one. Elegantly simple.
Did you make a video of how get the middle axle in to the differential?
I’m having trouble
What was the part number for the passenger side axle seal?
Anything not in the video is lost. Part numbers are different when comparing generic to OEM, so best to ask your parts man to hook you up. I'd go with OEM for that seal, it is made with very specific tolerances, and easy to mess up.
Hi again Spelunkerd - sorry to be a pest .. I checked my factory repair manual and it shows having to use a 'spreader' in order to remove the diff gear cluster (is that a 'pumpkin?'). I am NOT happy about this and wonder if it's ALWAYS necessary, and is there any way NOT to use it? Shows one can only 'spread' it .020" and that's not much - being an old machinist I recognize how seriously tight that tolerance is - and don't want to hurt anything. Opinions? Thanks again for your help!