Awesome vid man. I've been having this problem for a while now and it was driving me insane. I ordered a new actuator and took the old one out. I moved the "door" to the heat position for the time being until my replacement actuator come in. Thanks again man.
Thanks man. This is already my second replacement. I had a shop do it about 5 yrs ago. Anyway, your vid saved me shop costs. Only took like 15 minutes tops.
Awesome! Why did it take me so long to find this video? I've been dealing with this problem for years and I knew what the problem was. For whatever reason, every how-to vid I found led me toward pulling the whole dash and hours of work. Watched the video, clicked your link, ordered the part, Amazon delivered in 2 hrs!, pulled the cover and the old actuator, replaced with the new!! Got a whole day free ahead. Thanks! WPS!
My Silverado has been doing this for a while. Pain in the ass! Then the HVAC blower motor resister went out, so now I’m gonna finally change it! Thanks!
A couple comments. First, this is the ONLY video I have found that tells me whether or not I am onto the CORRECT blend door actuator. My Suburban has three, and there are plenty of videos that show you how to change each one, but they don't tell you the symptoms of which one controls what, so you don't know if you've got the right one. This one CLEARLY told me that this actuator controls the temperature on the drivers side, which was my issue. So I was able to know which one to change out (VERY helpful). Second, it's the 7/32 for the actuator screws and the 7mm for the big plastic cover screws. Lastly, if you have a vehicle with a center console, it is a LOT harder to reach and remove the furthest screw, but I found with a 1/4" drive socket wrench and the 7/32" socket, I was able to blindly back it out and put it back in. Be sure to manually turn the shaft on the actual door to line up with the flat spots on the actuator collar before you push it up into place. I put one screw in (the easy one) to hold it into place and then hooked up the wires and tried it out before I put the difficult screw in. Once I confirmed it worked, I went to the trouble to slowly ratchet the hard-to-reach screw into it's mounting hole. Good video, though, and thanks. I fixed my frozen-driver problem for $31!
Hey Bruce, I have an 05 suburban and now more than half the time it blows hit air out of both sides. Thr rear ac works great, so should I change both. I would love to be able to wire them to cold permanently since I am in SE Texas
Thanks for the video. I was having problems with heat control. I installed one of these today and it seems to work better. I guess they don't last forever. Mine is 20 years old. Thanks again for the tips.
They aren't usually actually out or broken. Being a broke retired engineer, I pulled my first one years ago, plugged it back in while it was out of the vehicle and turned the key on. To my surprise when I changed the temp, the actuator turned a little and jammed up. Quickly I grabbed my Leatherman multitool and helped it. It let out snap and then turned to where it should have for the position i had adjusted it on the truck. I stuck it back in and it worked fine until I sold the truck years later. I just clicked on this video for location of the drivers side actuator. Im an old hot rodder so I still find pasture and barn finds all the time so I see this pretty often. PS. Old farmers are bad, or good in my opinion, for having several pickup trucks to drive and something as simple as a heater not blowing warm air when its cold outside will make them park an otherwise perfectly good truck. I will say I've had to take them apart in some situations because they were that jammed up and I've also had to steal a plastic gear out of an old one, rob Peter to pay Paul, in order to get some working but as far as I can remember, one or two that were broken so bad that I actually had to purchase a new one. Good luck everyone and I hope the barn truck information i shared doesn't come back and bite me in the ass.
I am decades DIY shade tree ○ Just got billed $521•03 for the up-down cab-defrost ~ from what you say I can place anti-oxidant on the connector and silicone-spray the gear-dive ••• Went coast to coast on dilapidated 67 Impala and now have 2001 Silverado-w ( that's the engine code ) and need to get this hot-cold working in desperation mode → The servo is easy access and vastly overpriced
@@ChiDraconis sorry. Its a busy time of year for me on the farm, not to mention I am putting a salvaged motor in my 06 Chevy crew cab. I'd love to have that dilapidated 67 now. Those were good cars with a good ride. Back on the actuators. Judt search here on youtube to repair your own. Im sure they have some videos. I will have to end this comment but i will grab you a video of my own.
@@ChiDraconis I am a worn out 55 years old and I have owned almost every model of American Sports Car but I've owned this one or one that was similar to it many many years. After I get this set of heads on this 5.3 and running smooth I am going to sell my little red hot rod truck and put the 70 Trans Am back on the road, with a little less horsepower. With that 4500 stall comverter, a 456 spool for a gear and transbrake. She likes to twist axles coming off the line. I just want to Cruze her a little now.
@@dans49dodge Professional shop had to warranty the servo; Steve Says he used another brand ○ I am 70 in 2 Days and up at 4▬AM =Pushing so you can too ! $472,880,000 pizza delivery right now → We are being played for *Sapps!!* XXX is not longer TN Mash delivery it is cheapened for soft-tush Couch easy-life ○ One I was allowed to operate a 14 Second Road Runner with 4:56 & 10½" Drag Slicks without being told how powerful it is so I almost destroyed his vehicle as I went past redline before I could get it throttled-down and slowed ▬ Your vehicle of-choice is 1963 Model Year Chevrolet 283 w/ 2-bbl then work out from there accepting what you can find but no 1954 Ford Fordor with oil-bath air-cleaner ▬ Not to scare you I now fear the Law worse than I do the criminal they are hired to protect me from → You become what you resist or-alternately-Takes one to know one ○ Once I interview professional whom told me he had bought a Porsche and had to unload it due to flake-o-matic parts ~ What you need is a Lear 25 · 26 · 27 · 28 · 29 and professional commercial Pilot to take you as far as it will go then jump-out with no suit as weeze ƒ-kd no matter what
@@dans49dodge Rather than video I wish use-case of an actual doing it on the matter of this situation as seen from where - every your position is → Generally anywhere from 1955 Model year forward • The V-8 is better than the 6 • That year it was a 265 CI and all the way until what they call Vortec ~ anything in that era is worthy of review and consideration - Salvage Value you can try snyders auto salvage as for-fee finder as they have a 20-ma current loop where looking for is shared and widely ○ Need auto-reversing wipers for your 1940 Portuguese Dean???? → This is the place to go in all of the United States north of Panama Canal
Awesome tutorial man thanks! Took me 20 mins, mostly spent trying to locate my socket set! Also, tip for anyone with an 03, the screws holding in the actuator on mine needed a 7/16 instead of the 7mm
I had to grind down a 5.5mm socket shorter at both ends to fit. And that driver-side actuator screw is easier to access from the DRIVER side, in front of the console; can actually see it from that side !!! One can also cut down and use a 5.5mm nutsetter and 1/4" combination wrench to remove the actuator screws.
You haven’t lived till you change that SOB out with a center console blocking the Hell out of you! Mine wouldn’t line up with the shaft till I connected the wires and turned the heat on for a few seconds. Finally got it in and buttoned back up, works great now. Thanks for the video.
THANK YOU! My '05 had just cold to the driver's side, which really sucked as the weather's geting colder (passenger side worked just fine). I ordered the AA Ignition part from your link on Friday, it showed up Saturday evening, and after about a half an hour on Sunday morning it's working perfectly. NOTE: I also had only two screws holding the old actuator in place...and mine were 6mm, not 7mm.
Thanks for this! I just had this happen on my 05 Silverado, and saved me some headache diagnosing. Don't have a replacement part yet, so I manually flipped my door to cold :)
I read a post on how to fix the actuator buy cleaning the contacts inside the gearbox and applying new dielectric grease, but I didn't want to chance it, put a new one in and your done
You just saved me a bunch of time. I'm a mechanic here in Jacksonville North Carolina with a Silverado with the same conditions. I knew it was a blend door issue. Problem was location. Usually its the one on top. Like yours it to is a dual controlled system. I never would have thot to go to the bottom of the HVAC. Generally those usually control between hot and cold and not left and right. I was set tomorrow to pull the airbag and duck to get to the top one. That would had been a waste of time. THANKYOU VERY MUCH for your video!
Perfect, Thx man, for me it went good, to make it easier try laying a vanity mirror on top of the transmission tunnel to see what your doing, for me I had to turn the shaft on the blend door to clock match the actuator socket. 😎
Excellent video, appreciate it very much, know I saved a lot of $'s. Took me (actually my husband) about 30 mins, because he constantly looks at the video. He wanted to share that he used a 7mm socket to remove the screws on the cover, which he took completely off, and a 5mm socket to remove the actuator. His truck is an 04 Silverado 2500HD. Thanks again!!
Thank you so much. Uou explained which controls what side and that was a God send. Mine is a 2004 siverado with a full length console. I read in comments the guy didn't have to take out his console. I'm hoping I don't. One video shows a guy with seats n console out. 😮 omg. I hope not. Thank you for your detailed, right to the point video. Wish you lived in West Texas, I would pay you to fix mine. Thx so much.
Thanks for tutorial dude. I will attempt to DIY for my dad's 2004 Silverado. Almost identical to yours. Lol How did you hold open temporarily? Did you use a screw? Thanks Dustin
I was able to reach my hand into the back panel and disconnect the actuator to lock it on cold (after doing a reset my phone, letting it run for 2 minutes, turning it off for 30 seconds, turning it back on). Didn't even have to use any tools other than the needle nose pliers to take the fuse out! Now to wait for the part to arrive
Update on pricing on oem. 5/27/20 since all GM plants were closed the prices of these exploded. OEM replacement was $175. Just placed an order for one off your link, that warrenty. Hopefully I wont have to replace it down the road anytime soon.
hell yea thanks man , all i hear about is those blend doors , youd think chevy would find another vendor that makes those and quit bullshittin , but o well , thanks man for showin how to change em out!
So I've got an 03 and the temp controls work fine but the vents don't change. Before I buy the wrong parts or anything are all actuators for vents the same and do you know where the one Im needing might be located? Thanks...oh and I'm in Arkansas too...WOO PIG SOOIE!
I WAS having the same issue. Hot driver side cold passenger side. But! Now it will only blow air in defrost mode? Is it the same actuator? Or another issue?
Before you do anything! Try doing the reset first. My truck was doing the exact same thing and the reset fixed it. Key on engine not running, step on accelerator all the way to the floor for 1 minute 15 seconds. Turn key off and wait 10 to 15 seconds before letting up on accelerator. Wait 1 minute and start truck. Should work fine.
If you have the center console it’s a bit more work have to take the seats out, pile the cup homer and cigarette tray out then disconnect the harness for the console and lighters remove the two bolts where the cigarette lighters are and now pull it away. Then follow your video.
Man thank you I've just been Riding around freezing my butt off because my GMC is stuck on cold 🥶 on the driver's side and it has been 7 to 14 degrees for the past few days And even though the passenger side has been blowing hot air the cold overtakes it and it's still cold in my truck like there is no heat at all.
great helpful video, but just to put this out there, my 04 had 5mm screws holding it in not 7mm and the one closest to the seat was a locating pin that fit in that hole and it was not using a screw there
Thank you for your video....when taking out the actuator on my 04 silverado, the nub piece was stuck in it and had broke off into the actuator. now how does that get fixed lol
my AC blows just fine, the issue is my blend door actuator is on top of that housing. I heard your door going from hot to cold. My 88 model was so easy to swap out all of them with no issues...this 2003 model isn't very user friendly. My book states to drop the whole unit.
I was going to ask why the bottom of the dash was so rusty, then I saw all the moisture under the dash, not a good thing, but I needed the video to know where and how this was so thanks
Great video. I have a question though. Would this cause it to blow cool air in the winter and barley cool air in the summer while allowing outside air to come in through the vents?
Hey Dustin, I watched one of your videos the 2003 Silverado. I have 2003 GMC. The problem was heat on driver side cool on passenger side. Replaced the actuator. Wasn’t sure if I needed to calibrate. I have the automatic control s long story short didn’t see change. Does the actuator or ac need to be reset?
Great video! Does replacing this part correct low air flow out of the dash vents? My blower is running full speed (checked voltage to blower and it changes speeds with dash setting), but not all of the air comes out of the dash. Sometimes something changes (blend door opens?)and I get full flow. "Relearning" seems to help for a while, until it does it again.
Only problem I see is you described it as replacement of the drivers side actuator; but this was the passenger side. And they only have 2 screws - the front one is just a little tab for alignment I assume. I replaced my passenger earlier, as you did, but believe my problem lies on the drivers side, So I was hoping that was in fact what you were covering in the video as you state in the description.
I've found with my 04 chevy silverado 1500 if I just put the truck in neutral, ( or if not moving...) but turn off truck, and re start.....it resets it. Oftentimes that does the trick for my commute. However I just ordered the part, and will be using this vid as my guide to replace it soon. Thanks
I was driving down the road with cold air.. only to get hot air in all my Vents... So I stop the truck to investigate... Turn the truck back on got cold air again.. so how many does a 2004 Chevy Silverado has..
Thank you, my man .I know this video is basically 4 years old, but this fixed my problem here in Union SC ,when the heat is like hotter that HELL 😅
The blend door on my grandpa's truck went out and this helped us fix it. Thank you so much!
Awesome vid man. I've been having this problem for a while now and it was driving me insane. I ordered a new actuator and took the old one out. I moved the "door" to the heat position for the time being until my replacement actuator come in. Thanks again man.
Thanks man. This is already my second replacement. I had a shop do it about 5 yrs ago. Anyway, your vid saved me shop costs. Only took like 15 minutes tops.
Awesome! Why did it take me so long to find this video? I've been dealing with this problem for years and I knew what the problem was. For whatever reason, every how-to vid I found led me toward pulling the whole dash and hours of work. Watched the video, clicked your link, ordered the part, Amazon delivered in 2 hrs!, pulled the cover and the old actuator, replaced with the new!! Got a whole day free ahead. Thanks! WPS!
My Silverado has been doing this for a while. Pain in the ass! Then the HVAC blower motor resister went out, so now I’m gonna finally change it! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I ended up having to re calibrate after replacing the actuator.
My side blows flaming torches while my passenger shivering in a blanket! Will try this soon thank you for taking the learning pains out of it!!
Update?
A couple comments. First, this is the ONLY video I have found that tells me whether or not I am onto the CORRECT blend door actuator. My Suburban has three, and there are plenty of videos that show you how to change each one, but they don't tell you the symptoms of which one controls what, so you don't know if you've got the right one. This one CLEARLY told me that this actuator controls the temperature on the drivers side, which was my issue. So I was able to know which one to change out (VERY helpful). Second, it's the 7/32 for the actuator screws and the 7mm for the big plastic cover screws. Lastly, if you have a vehicle with a center console, it is a LOT harder to reach and remove the furthest screw, but I found with a 1/4" drive socket wrench and the 7/32" socket, I was able to blindly back it out and put it back in. Be sure to manually turn the shaft on the actual door to line up with the flat spots on the actuator collar before you push it up into place. I put one screw in (the easy one) to hold it into place and then hooked up the wires and tried it out before I put the difficult screw in. Once I confirmed it worked, I went to the trouble to slowly ratchet the hard-to-reach screw into it's mounting hole. Good video, though, and thanks. I fixed my frozen-driver problem for $31!
Hey Bruce, I have an 05 suburban and now more than half the time it blows hit air out of both sides. Thr rear ac works great, so should I change both. I would love to be able to wire them to cold permanently since I am in SE Texas
Thanks for posting this video. I ordered the part of Amazon and fixed it myself today. Probably save a couple hundred dollars!
Thank you Dustin, very helpful and enjoy your presentations.
GREAT video! I just bought mine on Amazon, and looking forward to fixing this problem on Saturday.
Thanks for the video man. Ordering mine today. My 05 is miserable right now.
Just watched both these videos, thanks man I been suffering this whole hot season without ac and found out it was just this..
Thanks for the video. I was having problems with heat control. I installed one of these today and it seems to work better. I guess they don't last forever. Mine is 20 years old. Thanks again for the tips.
Exactly what I needed to know! Sweet video.
They aren't usually actually out or broken. Being a broke retired engineer, I pulled my first one years ago, plugged it back in while it was out of the vehicle and turned the key on.
To my surprise when I changed the temp, the actuator turned a little and jammed up. Quickly I grabbed my Leatherman multitool and helped it. It let out snap and then turned to where it should have for the position i had adjusted it on the truck. I stuck it back in and it worked fine until I sold the truck years later.
I just clicked on this video for location of the drivers side actuator.
Im an old hot rodder so I still find pasture and barn finds all the time so I see this pretty often.
PS. Old farmers are bad, or good in my opinion, for having several pickup trucks to drive and something as simple as a heater not blowing warm air when its cold outside will make them park an otherwise perfectly good truck.
I will say I've had to take them apart in some situations because they were that jammed up and I've also had to steal a plastic gear out of an old one, rob Peter to pay Paul, in order to get some working but as far as I can remember, one or two that were broken so bad that I actually had to purchase a new one.
Good luck everyone and I hope the barn truck information i shared doesn't come back and bite me in the ass.
I am decades DIY shade tree ○ Just got billed $521•03 for the up-down cab-defrost ~ from what you say I can place anti-oxidant on the connector and silicone-spray the gear-dive ••• Went coast to coast on dilapidated 67 Impala and now have 2001 Silverado-w ( that's the engine code ) and need to get this hot-cold working in desperation mode → The servo is easy access and vastly overpriced
@@ChiDraconis sorry. Its a busy time of year for me on the farm, not to mention I am putting a salvaged motor in my 06 Chevy crew cab. I'd love to have that dilapidated 67 now. Those were good cars with a good ride.
Back on the actuators. Judt search here on youtube to repair your own. Im sure they have some videos.
I will have to end this comment but i will grab you a video of my own.
@@ChiDraconis I am a worn out 55 years old and I have owned almost every model of American Sports Car but I've owned this one or one that was similar to it many many years.
After I get this set of heads on this 5.3 and running smooth I am going to sell my little red hot rod truck and put the 70 Trans Am back on the road, with a little less horsepower.
With that 4500 stall comverter, a 456 spool for a gear and transbrake. She likes to twist axles coming off the line. I just want to Cruze her a little now.
@@dans49dodge
Professional shop had to warranty the servo; Steve Says he used another brand ○ I am 70 in 2 Days and up at 4▬AM =Pushing so you can too ! $472,880,000 pizza delivery right now → We are being played for *Sapps!!*
XXX is not longer TN Mash delivery it is cheapened for soft-tush Couch easy-life ○ One I was allowed to operate a 14 Second Road Runner with 4:56 & 10½" Drag Slicks without being told how powerful it is so I almost destroyed his vehicle as I went past redline before I could get it throttled-down and slowed ▬ Your vehicle of-choice is 1963 Model Year Chevrolet 283 w/ 2-bbl then work out from there accepting what you can find but no 1954 Ford Fordor with oil-bath air-cleaner ▬ Not to scare you I now fear the Law worse than I do the criminal they are hired to protect me from → You become what you resist or-alternately-Takes one to know one ○ Once I interview professional whom told me he had bought a Porsche and had to unload it due to flake-o-matic parts ~ What you need is a Lear 25 · 26 · 27 · 28 · 29 and professional commercial Pilot to take you as far as it will go then jump-out with no suit as weeze ƒ-kd no matter what
@@dans49dodge
Rather than video I wish use-case of an actual doing it on the matter of this situation as seen from where - every your position is → Generally anywhere from 1955 Model year forward • The V-8 is better than the 6 • That year it was a 265 CI and all the way until what they call Vortec ~ anything in that era is worthy of review and consideration - Salvage Value you can try snyders auto salvage as for-fee finder as they have a 20-ma current loop where looking for is shared and widely ○ Need auto-reversing wipers for your 1940 Portuguese Dean???? → This is the place to go in all of the United States north of Panama Canal
Thank you! It is a quick fix I just needed to know exactly where everything was. Like the video and details. Thank You!
Just wanna say thanks man , I don’t have a pain in my a** any more...you rock dude
Awesome tutorial man thanks! Took me 20 mins, mostly spent trying to locate my socket set! Also, tip for anyone with an 03, the screws holding in the actuator on mine needed a 7/16 instead of the 7mm
American *SAE* not Metric???
About to attempt initial inspection • very accomplished DIY Shade Tree
You mean 7/32
You can use a 7/32 but it's actually a 5.5mm.
I had to grind down a 5.5mm socket shorter at both ends to fit. And that driver-side actuator screw is easier to access from the DRIVER side, in front of the console; can actually see it from that side !!! One can also cut down and use a 5.5mm nutsetter and 1/4" combination wrench to remove the actuator screws.
My 1994 Suburban needed this, paid a shop. So did my 2005 Yukon, did myself. So did my 2014 Yukon, took apart and cleaned out the actuator.
You haven’t lived till you change that SOB out with a center console blocking the Hell out of you! Mine wouldn’t line up with the shaft till I connected the wires and turned the heat on for a few seconds. Finally got it in and buttoned back up, works great now. Thanks for the video.
So you're telling me I should turn the heat up before I change mine out on a 2005 yukon with center console?
@@jverbois : Most definitely, save you a lot of time and aggravation.
THANK YOU! My '05 had just cold to the driver's side, which really sucked as the weather's geting colder (passenger side worked just fine). I ordered the AA Ignition part from your link on Friday, it showed up Saturday evening, and after about a half an hour on Sunday morning it's working perfectly.
NOTE: I also had only two screws holding the old actuator in place...and mine were 6mm, not 7mm.
Glad I could help you! I’m not sure how I ever fixed anything before the days of TH-cam and Amazon! 😂
I believe the correct wrench is 7/32 for the actual screws that hold it in (and 7mm for the kick panel screws). He had it backwards.
@@DustinT did you ever post the video addressing how to recalibrate the new unit (if it's needed) and why do you suppose some need to be?
Thanks for this! I just had this happen on my 05 Silverado, and saved me some headache diagnosing. Don't have a replacement part yet, so I manually flipped my door to cold :)
How difficult is it to flip this door manually?
I read a post on how to fix the actuator buy cleaning the contacts inside the gearbox and applying new dielectric grease, but I didn't want to chance it, put a new one in and your done
Awesome, thank you, no mechanic knows what wrong, thanks. 👍👍
You just saved me a bunch of time. I'm a mechanic here in Jacksonville North Carolina with a Silverado with the same conditions. I knew it was a blend door issue. Problem was location. Usually its the one on top. Like yours it to is a dual controlled system. I never would have thot to go to the bottom of the HVAC. Generally those usually control between hot and cold and not left and right. I was set tomorrow to pull the airbag and duck to get to the top one. That would had been a waste of time. THANKYOU VERY MUCH for your video!
Pl00llk0lpkl pl llkpll0kl l k l ll l l
Little late on a reply but what’s up Jville!! Lemme know if you wanna tackle my ‘05 😂
my man....u the real mvp!!! my silverado just did this now i have the solution
Perfect, Thx man, for me it went good, to make it easier try laying a vanity mirror on top of the transmission tunnel to see what your doing, for me I had to turn the shaft on the blend door to clock match the actuator socket. 😎
Excellent video, appreciate it very much, know I saved a lot of $'s. Took me (actually my husband) about 30 mins, because he constantly looks at the video. He wanted to share that he used a 7mm socket to remove the screws on the cover, which he took completely off, and a 5mm socket to remove the actuator. His truck is an 04 Silverado 2500HD. Thanks again!!
Great video Thanks for making it very helpful
Thanks for the video and the part link. Easy fix.
Great vid! I had that problem and it fixed it.
Thank you so much. Uou explained which controls what side and that was a God send. Mine is a 2004 siverado with a full length console. I read in comments the guy didn't have to take out his console. I'm hoping I don't. One video shows a guy with seats n console out. 😮 omg. I hope not. Thank you for your detailed, right to the point video. Wish you lived in West Texas, I would pay you to fix mine. Thx so much.
Thank you! Every other video has been about temporary fixes...
awesome, got one arriving today for same problem
Thanks for the help. I replaced the actuator in my 2004 Chevy Silverado and my a/c no longer randomly turns hot. Thanks!
im looking to see if my local part store has it . there are numbers like 3 4 5 6 is there a difference. my 05 gmc sierra is doing the same thing
Where'd you get the emblem cover on the grill there?
Great Video! Thanks!
Fixed the problem thank ya
Great video. Thanks bro
Dustin, did you ever post the reset for this? Mine is still confused where the controls are vs the door.
Thank you sir! The only video I could find that actually gave me the socket size. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for tutorial dude. I will attempt to DIY for my dad's 2004 Silverado. Almost identical to yours. Lol How did you hold open temporarily? Did you use a screw? Thanks Dustin
I was able to reach my hand into the back panel and disconnect the actuator to lock it on cold (after doing a reset my phone, letting it run for 2 minutes, turning it off for 30 seconds, turning it back on). Didn't even have to use any tools other than the needle nose pliers to take the fuse out! Now to wait for the part to arrive
Great video. Thx sir.
Great video!! Thank you
Does the new blend door actuator you linked in your video still work as advertised?
I have to replace the one in my 2003 Silverado.
Thanks,
Very helpfull.thank you👍👍👍
Thanks for rthe video and the part link. Easy fix
Thanks!! Same on 2006 Chevy 2500 HD.
Update on pricing on oem. 5/27/20 since all GM plants were closed the prices of these exploded. OEM replacement was $175. Just placed an order for one off your link, that warrenty. Hopefully I wont have to replace it down the road anytime soon.
Would this be the fix when I have full defrost on and air still comes out of the dash and floor vents and vise versa?
Nice vid. Thanks man.
Well done and explained
Very useful. Thank you
hell yea thanks man , all i hear about is those blend doors , youd think chevy would find another vendor that makes those and quit bullshittin , but o well , thanks man for showin how to change em out!
Is there an actuator for both sides of just 1? I have no heat on either side. 04 Silverado. Thanks!
Is this for the left side by the window too?
well done and thank you
So I've got an 03 and the temp controls work fine but the vents don't change. Before I buy the wrong parts or anything are all actuators for vents the same and do you know where the one Im needing might be located? Thanks...oh and I'm in Arkansas too...WOO PIG SOOIE!
Can I use a blend door in place of my mode door ? Or will it not work? They are exactly identical
I need one of these videos for the driver side on the 2014 model
Which video shows how do relearn the blend door? I got to replace mine and I will probably have to relearn it. Thanks for a great video!!!!
I WAS having the same issue. Hot driver side cold passenger side. But! Now it will only blow air in defrost mode? Is it the same actuator? Or another issue?
Thank you!
When u hear that hissing outside you KNOW it’s hot AF!
Before you do anything! Try doing the reset first. My truck was doing the exact same thing and the reset fixed it. Key on engine not running, step on accelerator all the way to the floor for 1 minute 15 seconds. Turn key off and wait 10 to 15 seconds before letting up on accelerator. Wait 1 minute and start truck. Should work fine.
If you have the center console it’s a bit more work have to take the seats out, pile the cup homer and cigarette tray out then disconnect the harness for the console and lighters remove the two bolts where the cigarette lighters are and now pull it away. Then follow your video.
Man thank you I've just been Riding around freezing my butt off because my GMC is stuck on cold 🥶 on the driver's side and it has been 7 to 14 degrees for the past few days And even though the passenger side has been blowing hot air the cold overtakes it and it's still cold in my truck like there is no heat at all.
I got the same problem rn 😂
@@k9andkay806 it was easy to fix
are all actuators the same for all 4?
great helpful video, but just to put this out there, my 04 had 5mm screws holding it in not 7mm and the one closest to the seat was a locating pin that fit in that hole and it was not using a screw there
Any ideas on what to replace next? I replaced the actuator and did the relearn process and it didn't solve the issue
If your still having issues its the climate control unit.. You can find the new ones on Amazon. $140
Thank you for your video....when taking out the actuator on my 04 silverado, the nub piece was stuck in it and had broke off into the actuator. now how does that get fixed lol
How long did it last I've replaced 2 times in 5 years
Will this also fix the problem if my a/c is on and drivers side blows cild but the passenger side blows hot?
Do I have actually have to unplug the battery or is it only recommended
my AC blows just fine, the issue is my blend door actuator is on top of that housing. I heard your door going from hot to cold. My 88 model was so easy to swap out all of them with no issues...this 2003 model isn't very user friendly. My book states to drop the whole unit.
Does that work if it blows hot on the passenger side?
Thank you 🙏
Hoped to see drivers side actuator removal
I was going to ask why the bottom of the dash was so rusty, then I saw all the moisture under the dash, not a good thing, but I needed the video to know where and how this was so thanks
Great video. I have a question though. Would this cause it to blow cool air in the winter and barley cool air in the summer while allowing outside air to come in through the vents?
Is this for the driver side or passenger side? Thanks
Hey Dustin, I watched one of your videos the 2003 Silverado. I have 2003 GMC. The problem was heat on driver side cool on passenger side. Replaced the actuator. Wasn’t sure if I needed to calibrate. I have the automatic control s long story short didn’t see change. Does the actuator or ac need to be reset?
Did you find a solution
Great video! Does replacing this part correct low air flow out of the dash vents? My blower is running full speed (checked voltage to blower and it changes speeds with dash setting), but not all of the air comes out of the dash. Sometimes something changes (blend door opens?)and I get full flow. "Relearning" seems to help for a while, until it does it again.
That is the blower motor resistor
@@Gothoe69 sorry, but, already replaced it. Actuators aren't working correctly
@@Gothoe69 and everyone is
Are there two actuators? A driver and passenger side or just one?
Is this the same process for a 2002 Chevy Avalanche?
Only problem I see is you described it as replacement of the drivers side actuator; but this was the passenger side.
And they only have 2 screws - the front one is just a little tab for alignment I assume.
I replaced my passenger earlier, as you did, but believe my problem lies on the drivers side,
So I was hoping that was in fact what you were covering in the video as you state in the description.
Nice video for Passenger side blend door actuator not DRIVERS side actuator.
How many actuators are there? Mine blows cold then switches to hot ? Is is same side or there is on driver side as well ?
I'm wondering the same thing
I've found with my 04 chevy silverado 1500 if I just put the truck in neutral, ( or if not moving...) but turn off truck, and re start.....it resets it. Oftentimes that does the trick for my commute. However I just ordered the part, and will be using this vid as my guide to replace it soon. Thanks
Did that fix it?
Hey I'm in northern Arkansas also!!
good job THX
Will this work for 04 Escalade
I was driving down the road with cold air.. only to get hot air in all my Vents... So I stop the truck to investigate... Turn the truck back on got cold air again.. so how many does a 2004 Chevy Silverado has..
I'd have to turn off my truck and start it up again. Cold air comes out again lol. Awsome video
That was my temp fix too until I finally replaced the actuator.
When you shut it off and restarted it started blowing cold again? If so I'm having the same issue.
I had my actuator replaced and it is still blows hot air. I have to turn it off and restart the vehicle to get the cooler air.
What a day we live in where the generation calls an ash tray a "cigarette lighter thing." This is good.
Is it the same problem if you have heat on the passenger side and ac on driver side
Passenger side blend door is on the top right below the dash
Does anyone know the name of that plastic skin that was removed it’s not a kick panel trying to find that part
Mine blows hot and cold intermittently only on drivers side, is this the same solution?