I have learned in 20 minutes more about my car than I could have done with a manual. It's like having the auto shop teacher working right next to you the whole time . You sir are freaking awesome THANK YOU
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty certain that being a Lead Inspector is known to cause cancer, birth defects and/or other reproductive harm if you live in California
4 years ago I found this video helpful because I needed to replace the blend door on the passenger side. I thought at the time, Boy am I glad I don't have to replace that top one, where you have to cut the vent duct. Well, I'm back watching the whole video (for the second time), because I now have to replace that very one on top. This is still the best video out there, even after 7 years. Thanks Again.
I am a journeyman level Auto Tech, ASE Certified m aster Tech who once held a brake lamp smog adjuster/inspector license for Cal BAR' I appreciate your production and the hack on the ventilation, especially the release button on the passenger bar, Great video young man I ebcourage you to do more videos.
Brian, after removing dash top pad I was able to drill two 1/2" holes from top down thru bottom of duct to access both screws without having to cut duct into. Then I had four small holes to seal. I would not have attempted this without seeing your video. It took a little measuring to make sure that my holes aligned with the screw heads. This was for the passengers side temperature blend actuator. THANKS for taking time to post helps and time savers.
Thank you!! I’m a lady and not a lady mechanic, but I have small hands and arms and I know how to follow directions and I just finished the job thanks to you! AC and all my controls are 100! 🤸🏻♀️
And nearly 3 years after you posted this video, it's still helping people. Thank you for the great vid, it helped me a lot with not having to go search for all those dang actuators.
This has been the most detailed and efficient video I've come across. I have filled out the two easiest actuators (under the steering column, and under the ash tray). The next two will prove to be a challenge, but with your video I feel I understand the process much clearer. Thank you Sir, have a blessed day.
This video helped a bunch! I would like to add that you don't have to cut the ducting...if you remove the brackets across the top (4-10mm bolts and (+/-) 12-7mm screws) you can wiggle and pop up the entire ducting up a few inches. From there you can use an 8mm short 3/8 ratchet to take off the actuator. I also removed the vent to the right of the radio, which was held down by 2-7mm screws. If you need more room you put a pry bar through that area to give a little more room.
Confirmed, although extremely tedious and patience taxing, completed the install by this method vs cutting apart the duct work. I used a flexible extension attached to a ratcheting screw driver that allowed fishing the 7/32" (male hex drive) socket between the duct work and bend at 90 deg with the aid of a simple bent pick to guide and engage the actuator bolts. Installation the same process with a dab of super glue on the bolts to help stay in place the socket. (tip: electrical tape all the tool components together to prevent separation/backing off while attempting disassembly/assembly). I found reaching up from the glove box and stabilizing the new actuator with left hand and pushing the recirc door one way the other (finding alignment) with my right hand help seat on the door shaft. Good luck!
Thanks Brian! Just diagnosed my brother's truck with this video. He had two bad actuators! One for the blend door and the recirculation vent. Showed him the filter location and replaced them also. Excellent description of the system and now you have another fan following the channel.
Great ending to the video Brian. Humility, respect and a willingness to help others is a mantra we all should have. I really enjoy your content, thanks.
+briansmobile1 How would I remove the duct that is at 5:14 in the forground? It is impossible to get my hands into the area on my 2001 silverado with center console/cassette deck. There is also a metal bar that goes from the transmission hump to the stearing support. I find a lot of information on the right side of the truck but hardly any information(about making it easier) for the left side. Thanks for the video! I wish I could do as good a job......
Very common problem - you are very smart to replace them all at once! Great to see a well done video on this job, Thanks Brian. I still want my simple cable system back!
I must say that this video was extremely helpful! I was able to install a new blend door actuator motor yesterday. It was the passenger side actuator which is the same one that is replaced in the video. The passenger side was stuck on blowing hot air. By removing and replacing that new motor, the issue was fixed! Almost every tip that was provided in this video was super helpful and was provided clearly, concise, and nearly step by step. However, I did not need to cut the HVAC tube like it was cut in this video. I say again, I DID NOT need to cut the HVAC tube! All I needed to do was to remove a couple screws on the driver's side of the dash brackets which allowed me to rock the HVAC tubes in directions which allowed my hands to get in and remove/ install the new blend door actuator motor. After I did the troubleshooting and verified the new motor worked, I was able to button everything up nice and clean. I've got to admit that I was a bit nervous to do this job because I've taken apart a dash on a GMC Sonoma to replace the heater core and it was a nightmare. Performing this fix on my 2004 GMC Sierra was actually super easy all with the help of the man that made this video! So thanks to you, Sir! A tip that I will give is that when purchasing this new blend door actuator motor I suggest not to skimp out on price for the part. I was able to purchase mine through Napa auto parts where they provided a lifetime warranty and a AAA Discount. The part ended up being just over $160. I tried O'Reilly but they said it was strictly a special order item... nobody has time for that. Amazon offers this part for just over $30 but it's a cheap knock off made in China with no warranty at all. Save yourself time, money and heartache and go through Napa.
A Prince among men be ye. I just grabbed a junkyard Drivers side actuator because now its frost here in Canada at night. Thanks for saving me the time of finding that little bugger. Share the love! Sharing is caring and it never hurts to help. Stay gold.
Brian, I know this is an older video, but just wanted to let you know this is the best instructional TH-cam video on replacing these actuators, by far! I just completed the replacement of the passenger side temp on my 2005 with automatic temp control. It was a huge pain, as I decided not to cut the duct, which involved even a bit more disassembly, but your video helped immensely! Thanks for being so much help. :-)
Could you put in an estimate of all the actuators,,all of mine will be automatic. My suburban is a 2004 with rear air. I really enjoyed the video and like helping others,,be blessed. Sincerely Ernie Miller
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. My drivers side actuator has been spotty for a while, and has been replaced by rubber bands. I've put off doing this job since I couldn't find the locations of the remaining actuators. Thanks again, this was a big help.
This is literally “The Greatest Video on You Tube” about this issue! Thank you so much!!! Very informative and easy to follow. Thank you thank you thank you
Tremendously helpful! Thank you for taking the time to provide the detailed video. You really saved me a lot of time and frustration... not to mention breaking some stuff in the process. Greatly appreciated Brian!
Thank you for this video! I bought a 2004 Silverado this past Easter, and the only thing wrong with it was the driver's side heater blend actuator was stuck in the heat position, and since we are having a record hot spring in Tennessee this was a problem! I'm used to working on older model Chevys (60's and 70s) where the heat controls are a lever hooked to a physical cable. Without your video I would NEVER have found the actuator! Thanks again
Thank you for this good video! My 2005 silverado has actuator problems. I have been quoted a replacement cost of $2000.00 for this job. My being told the entire dash has to come out. You know you’r way around chevy trucks. It’s a good feeling watching a real mechanic at work. Thanks again for this great video!
Thankyou for talking to us all and explaining as if we are equals, we are all here to to learn. Some TH-cam video makers are so condescending, it detracts from there own talents. You make it easier to learn, You would make an excellent teacher. Kinda wish You had been mine in the late '70's Your occasional humor and wit are irreplaceable. Thanks!
Finally! A video that showed me where the front passenger side temperature actuator is! By the way, locations of actuators are the same for AUTOmatic controls. Thank you sir!
Brian this was the best step by step on this job I have found. I was not looking forward to doing it until I saw your video. About 2 hours and done. The cut and tape is the only way to go, you can't find the screws and get to them from the front. I like how other guys just skip over the really difficult steps.Thanks for the help.
Thank you I've been working on my trucks ac for 3 days and watched about 15 different videos and none of them lead me to the right blend door for my drivers side your a Saint and a gentleman 😀
Great video with many useful tips. You ask for suggestions. Here's mine. I just replace the passenger side blend door on a '04 Yukon Denali. Instead of cutting the duct that runs at the top of the dash, I drilled two 5/8" holes through the duct directly over the actuator mount screws. The holes can be any size needed to get a socket down to the screw heads. Once free the actuator can be fished out through the dash panel at the left passenger vent hole. Tip: I used a long #10 drill bit to pilot drill the holes making sure the bit exited the duct and could touch the head of the screw. I used plumber's putty in the socket to hold the screw when I reinstalled them. Then I taped the holes with aluminum HVAC tape. That should save a few extra minutes!
What an absolute wonderful video! Thank you so much for it! I would have enjoyed this even if I didn't need to perform this procedure on my truck. I've got the automatic version. Hopefully I have learned enough here to proceed. I don't mind doing the cut and tape method but one has to wonder why GM didn't make it doable to remove the entire duct so it doesn't have to be cut. Thanks again!
Warning warning… if it hasn’t worked since you replaced your battery 2 years ago… lots of dust will blast in your face when you start the engine after replacing the fuse! 😂 Thanks for the video and the comments on the video. Saved me cash and time!
Hey Brian, I did make it to the end, lol. I wanted to thank you for all your informative videos. I've learned some stuff from you and fixed some of my own projects. Thanks, I appreciate you sir.
I did it! I replaced the blend door actuator! Thanks to you and your video. I appreciate how you got to the nitty gritty at the beginning and then into more detail as the vid progressed. You spoke my brain language. Thank you! 2011 Chevrolet Silverado LT
Good video. I like to see repair videos that actually show the repair, not the aftermath. Have you replaced the blower motor yet? Mine works but makes a roaring noise. on the 4 and 5 setting.
I have an 02 silverado and my mode actuator is acting up. I've been putting it off for months because I thought it'd be such a pain. Now I know how easy it is, and I'm going to fix it this weekend! Thanks for your help.
Thanks a lot man!! I've been dealing with my passenger vents blowing hot for 2 years and I live in Florida. I'm no mechanic by far but completed the job with some help in under 3 hours and of course this video. I will admit the biggest pain in the a$$ was cutting that vent. Thanks again
Very well done. I have a little bit more confidence to try this. I have a 2004 Silverado LT and the control panel is different. I appreciate you doing this. Wished you lived closer so if I get over my head I could come see you. You're good people. Thank you for your kindness.
Thank you! Your video saved me a lot of time on my daughter's '04 Yukon Denali. It had defaulted to defrost, which was OK for last winter, but come last May, she needed her A/C. I replaced all the actuators, with the help of your video. Again, Thank You!Sorry if this a duplicate post. I thought I had already posted it, but when I came across this video I didn't see it. I'm going back through your videos and finding a lot of gems.
Best guide I've found on the interwebs! Kudos! Now to find the correct size socket, my Walmart toolbox doesn't have the right size to take the kick guard off. Thanks for such a great lesson!
Hey Brian just wanted to mention as you requested, that you can take out the actuator inside the dash without cutting the duct. You have to take the other half of the metal bracket that is over the duct on the drivers side off as well. Then you disconnect the duct from the defrost on both ends just pulling the hose off, then you unscrew where it is connected to the dash on both ends. You pull up on the defrost part of it and it will come up and make a hole big enough to reach in and unscrew the actuator.
Thank you so much Brian You gave me the confidence to attempt this project. My 2004 3500 had the fancy automatic sensor system. It was scary because my unit was not like your demo model. Extra options add more crap in the way. I straight away broke my headlamp ambient light sensor which sent me to the Chevy dealer. Good move because the parts lady printed out a diagram of the duct work for me. I have small hands and huge determination, I needed both. I did have to cut some plastic guards out of the way to access the "easy actuator" If not for you I would not have tried this. I feel more intimate with my Silverado now. You are the best.
Great video! I used your directions for disassembly. Cutting the duct seemed crude, but is REALLY the BEST WAY. I also used the aluminum duct tape. TOP TIPS ! I replaced all of the actuators, too. I have the auto system. Replaced the old style blower control module to the newer single connector type. Unfortunately, the passenger side still does not get warm. It seemed to work correctly when I had it apart... Edit: The connector on the pass. temp. actuator had pushed over the male pins on the actuator, so they were not connected. Be aware that the male pins can slide into the unused spaces on the connector. Looks connected, just isnt.
Wonderful video! Literally one of a kind on the internet! Showing all four and their functions. Turns out my problem was the inlet/recirculate actuator. I had a stoke of luck and pushed the door closed in the recirculate position. This solved the loud whirling noise that I've had to listen to for the last ten years! The door was in-between fresh air and recirculate. No more loud whirling noise and a ton of air volume coming out of the vents now!
Thank you Brian! This is exactly the information I have been looking for. My 2005 Silverado, with 262,000 miles on it, recently began blowing hot air on the drivers side, while the passenger side had ca/c air coming out. I found the acuator above the trans hump and removed it, and manually moved the louver in the oppisite position and had cold air now on the drivers side as well. Here is where it gets irritating. When I get into truck and begin to drive it with the a/c on, after about 5 or 6 miles, the driver side gets heat, the passenger side still has a/c. I removed the acuator and it does move. So I backed up the chain and replaced the HVAC control unit just to eliminate that as a source of trouble. Long story short, I no longer have the acuator moving the louver, but its still connected electially. I miss the heater controls of years past. My 1966 Impala had the best set up of all. Also, I was not aware that the truck has FOUR actuators!! Your video is the best I have seen in a long time. Dave
I don't even own a chevy silverado but I once had a bad actuator in my saturn aura and a friend did a quick fix to stop the knocking sound. He did't do all you did to get to it so I know it wasn't fixed right but it saved my sanity of hearing that noise lol. But thanks to your video if I have another one ever go out I won't be afraid to fix it myself. It looks time consuming and will take patience so clips don't get broke and every screw gets put back in to every hole but I would definitely tackle replacing a bad actuator on my own now. Thanks for the detailed video, you make it look very doable. Of course every car will be a little different with the order you take it apart I'm sure but for the most part it looks pretty simple to do. I love learning and then fixing my own vehicles. I'm to cheap to pay someone else to do a job I'm more than capable of doing myself. I'll be checking out more of your videos. Thanks for the great detailed into, Brian! Looking forward to watching more! Love the message at the end :}
Nine years later and this video still is a huge help. The detail, the walk through, I have an old 2004 Silverado that blows hot even in the summer. NOW, I am going to attack it. Add in the "add a cabin filter" hack and I should be all set. l
This is the best video on this. All the others just say "blend door actuator" and point to the passenger side. They never mention, THERE ARE FOUR ACTUATORS! Thanks so much for your help!
I still own a 1949 Dodge Pickup. A 1972 Buick Grand Sport, Dual Cowl Hood, High Output car and my favorite is my 1970 & 1/2 Trans Am. Besides a few more newer vehicles and I whole heartily agree. I do own a dynamic spectrum tuner so I can change and of the computerized parameters on these newer ones but it takes like 30 minutes to advance the timing on my newer stuff and and about two minutes, with a timing light, and a 9/16ths wrench to adjust the timing in my old rods.
There's no need to remove the dash or cut the ducting. Disconnect the battery. Drop the glove box down. Remove both outer passenger vents. Then remove the four 10mm bolts holding the Passenger Side Arbag. Two from underneath and 2 just on the upper inside lip of each vent, and then push out the Air Bag remembering to disconnect the plug. Then, you will have full access to the passenger side Temp Control Actuator while sticking something underneath the ducting to hold it up, so to get to the actuator bolts. You also will have full access to the Inlet/Reserculation actuator that is to the right as well. This method is much much less evasive and way less time-consuming. Although speaking from experience, the dash believe it or not, is much easier to remove than one would think. Uther than that this video is very helpful/educational in this subject. Thank You.
By far one of the best how to videos I have seen. Quick info to start then very detailed after that. You make it look easy. And you sound like a good and humble man. God bless.
Finally ended up doing this today 7/24/21. I bought a 2003 Silverado 1500, so it does not have the center console. The driver sides where easy to do. Needed help on the passenger side and glad I found this video. Unfortunately someone else was in here before me. They actually cut the wire (female plug) that goes into the passenger actuator. So luckily found the plug and waiting for it to come in. Also the blender actuator for the recirculate is a 3 terminal conector not 5 like all of the other ones I’ve done. Ordered that part aswell. To boot all the clips on the dashboard where broke already, those tabs you mentioned. Looking into a way to fix them. Might just glue them. Thanks for the video!
Thank you, great video. I bought a Haynes repair manual and learned more from watching this. I took my dash apart and wasn't really sure what I was looking for until now. You say people are awsome, I say yes you are. Thanks again
Great video! Went thru your process with my '04 GMC Sierra, flawless process! One point from a prior experience: pulling the dash panel doesn't need a prying tool; simply pull the bottom right corner towards you to get it started (mine has a bit of the corner exposed for a finger grab), then just work it loose all the way around. This helps minimize mutilation marks.
Brian, Thank you very much. My wife's truck has been blowing hot air for a while. This should fix the problem. I haven't found a more in depth video anywhere. It's much appreciated.
Great video, thanks for not playing loud music or try and be funny like the other videos. This is the best video on the subject I have found. Thanks !!!
Thank you! You just saved me from going and buying actuator with your re calibration advice/walkthrough. I’m blowing cold again! I figured why not and BOOM. YOU ARE THE MAN! 💯🙏🙏🙏
Hey bud, I bought a new wiring harness for the actuator that controls the driver's side, but the new harness has seven wires, with only six pins on the actuator. I left the seventh wire off, and everything works EXCEPT, once I start driving, it automatically changes back to hot air, only on the driver's side. Should I connect the seventh wire to some metal nearby, or should I join it to one of the other six splices? Please advise, thank you.
I have been without a defroster for a year. When I looked under my dash I could not see the motor. Now after watching your video, I see there is duct work that needs to be removed, then I should be able to replace the motor. Your video was very informative and I appreciate that you took the time to share your experience with others. I will be tackling this project next weekend. I will post how it goes.
Brian, I know this is old video back in 2015. this is HUGE help to me as I have 2004 silverado 1500 with manual controls. i have been looking for this type of video to fix all the actuators! HUGE HUGE help. thank so much Brian!!!
This has been one of the most informative videos that I have come across on TH-cam in regards to this subject. Keep up the good work and sharing what I would say is real D.I.Y. content....
Thank you for this! Our passenger side actuator went out two years ago, and, to us, it wasn’t worth the $1K+ that the dealer wanted to fix it, so our poor truck has had it’s passenger side ducts taped closed all that time. Now I have the option of doing something about it. Thanks again.
Thanks for a great video. You helped me immensely and got me through the replacement of the blend door and inlet door actuators, both located on the passenger side. Having succeded at that I found the mode control would not work. I had air blowing through defrost only. Various internet sources describe pulling the HVAC fuse (under the hood) or disconnecting the negative battery cable for 5 minutes or so, then turning the key to on (not start) and allowing the actuators a few minutes to automatically recalibrate. After multiple failed attempts this is wnat worked for me. 1) unplug both negative and positive battery cables, 2) hold the two cable ends together for about 30-40 seconds, 3) leave the battery disconnected another 20 minutes, 4) reconnect cables to battery, 5) wait another 5 minutes, 6) get in truck, turn key to on (don't start engine), don't touch climate controls, and allow the actuators about 4 minutes to automatically recalibrate. This is the only method that worked for me. Maybe it will help someone else.
Very well done, I have all the confidence to tear apart my wife's 2005 Suburban. The video is greatly appreciated, you covered all the bases. THANK YOU BRIAN.
WOW! I've seen lots of videos about this but you did it the right way IMO. Thanks for showing this. I waited all the way through because I need to replace one actuator. The recirculation door one. Based on what you show I may, may be able to change it without cutting anything. We shall see. Thanks for this video.
I have a 04 duramax with auto/digital HVAC that for over two years the ac would shut off for the driver side at random by itself while driving and in the winter the heat on the drivers side would by luke warm at times and hot on the passenger side. Three garages and some utube video's told me it was the control under the drivers side acting up so I replaced it, seemed to help but just when the temp would be changing outside and a need for heat or cold the same thing. Finally removed the floor blend actuator and took it apart and cleaned it up.. over a year and no problem since. Inside the grease residue was over the contact points, cleaned with alcohol and that did it, working perfectly. Hope this helps
Great video Brian. I was apprehensive to cut the vent tube assembly but agree with you that it works and probably the only way to change out the air inlet/ circulate actuator. I had previously changed the mode select actuator in 2013. Both blend actuators went out within a month of each other. Decided to replace the air inlet actuator since the entire dashboard area was opened up. Your video helped tremendously. I even purchased the recommended Milwaukee jab saw. It is a great tool. Doing this yourself saved an insane amount of money from taking it to the dealer.
Finishing your video says three things about me. The third thing is that enjoyed it! It is a very informative video. No time wasted, all aspects covered. 👍 Now about the wire routing at 3:42 I would of kept the wire behind, as original from factory. In a dirt road/washboard condition or potholes (I live in Michigan, Pothole Capital!) tucking the wire behind reduces movement as the wire is trapped in place against the screw boss. Just a thought. Although I'll admit I have on occasions re-routed, taped, or tie wrapped wires in additional spots. lol. Once again great video!
WOW, Thanks Brian! You saved me time and money with your detailed video and its 108 here. I appreciate the time and effort you put in to carefully walk through the process of fixing this issue. Nice work!
Ok I have to thank you for this video. I was determined to install it through the little area so I took out the air bag, bat disconnected of course, the whole thing was very intimidating for me but this video gave me the guts to do it and it worked..... I had a really small 1/4" ratchet and was able to operate its arm with a larger box wrench postured at a 90 around the end and held down the socket with a really long driver through the center passenger vent whole. the socket kept rocking on the bolt so much effort repsoitioning and repositioning the long screw driver through the denter pass vent and have another go. As the screw got deeper, the bolt became more ridgid and was abe to make slow headway with many breaks and explicatives. it took forever but I had plenty of time. I cant thank you enough for this whole thing all apart, I went back couple times to look at which metal bracket went where etc. It took me a bit to get all the tabs up front to catch etc. once again I cleaned all the pieces and the whole thing came out great and I saved just a ton of money.... I was able to watch the thing move back and forth through the center whole with a long light with just the key on.
Hi Brian - awesome thorough video! I am replaced my servo controller for the mode switch with a brand new one. After installing and being proud of getting the two screws and it all aligned I was very proud and ready for a great fix. Unfortunately the new servo did not seem to operate as I hoped. I tried taking out the fuse to initiate the recalibration but that didn't help either. So I dismounted the servo and just watched it while it hanged by it's wire harness. When I disconnected the fuse and turned the ignition on it would go all the way to the counter clockwise index mark. When I plug the fuse back in and turn the ignition on it would go to its full clockwise position index mark and stop. Letting it sit for few minutes with engine running wouldn't do anything and turning the dial wouldn't do anything. It would just stay in the full clockwise position. So I'm not sure if I'm not calibrating it correctly or whether there's an issue with the actual AC control board with the switches and dials. Do you have to clear the code on a scanner? Any suggestions? Thanks!
This video work great. I followed it step by step and didnt have any problems. The self tapping screw at 14:30 only works on some model years. I had the bridge plastic piece but couldn't get under it for a clean cut. But its supported by two screws one on each end
Let me start off by saying THANK YOU. I’ve been trying to figure out why my shit hadn’t worked for over a year now whiteout having to pay and arm and a leg and this video literally just saved me from selling my truck I can’t wait to get the parts and fix it now that I actually know everything I need to to fix it!
Youre impressed? Im impressed! Ty. First video ive seen that lays out every actuator change issue. I wish i found ur video 9 months ago. Keep up the dam good work.
I have learned in 20 minutes more about my car than I could have done with a manual. It's like having the auto shop teacher working right next to you the whole time . You sir are freaking awesome THANK YOU
Lead tech and you found this video bc you can diagnose your own AC?
I was a Lead technician for a Chevrolet dealership for 21 years. This is one of the best " how to " videos I've watched. Great Job !
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty certain that being a Lead Inspector is known to cause cancer, birth defects and/or other reproductive harm if you live in California
4 years ago I found this video helpful because I needed to replace the blend door on the passenger side. I thought at the time, Boy am I glad I don't have to replace that top one, where you have to cut the vent duct. Well, I'm back watching the whole video (for the second time), because I now have to replace that very one on top. This is still the best video out there, even after 7 years. Thanks Again.
I am a journeyman level Auto Tech, ASE Certified m aster Tech who once held a brake lamp smog adjuster/inspector license for Cal BAR' I appreciate your production and the hack on the ventilation, especially the release button on the passenger bar, Great video young man I ebcourage you to do more videos.
few years late on this one, but i am going to say, this is the best video i have seen yet on these actuators. thank you.
I see this is 9 years old but I hope you’re still doing videos like these. The comments you include within the video is great and helpful. Great job.
You have no idea the hours I have spent searching for a video as yours!! I thank you so much. You have saved this Northern Idaho gal !!
Brian, after removing dash top pad I was able to drill two 1/2" holes from top down thru bottom of duct to access both screws without having to cut duct into. Then I had four small holes to seal. I would not have attempted this without seeing your video. It took a little measuring to make sure that my holes aligned with the screw heads. This was for the passengers side temperature blend actuator. THANKS for taking time to post helps and time savers.
Thank you!! I’m a lady and not a lady mechanic, but I have small hands and arms and I know how to follow directions and I just finished the job thanks to you! AC and all my controls are 100! 🤸🏻♀️
And nearly 3 years after you posted this video, it's still helping people. Thank you for the great vid, it helped me a lot with not having to go search for all those dang actuators.
This has been the most detailed and efficient video I've come across. I have filled out the two easiest actuators (under the steering column, and under the ash tray). The next two will prove to be a challenge, but with your video I feel I understand the process much clearer.
Thank you Sir, have a blessed day.
This video helped a bunch! I would like to add that you don't have to cut the ducting...if you remove the brackets across the top (4-10mm bolts and (+/-) 12-7mm screws) you can wiggle and pop up the entire ducting up a few inches. From there you can use an 8mm short 3/8 ratchet to take off the actuator. I also removed the vent to the right of the radio, which was held down by 2-7mm screws. If you need more room you put a pry bar through that area to give a little more room.
Confirmed, although extremely tedious and patience taxing, completed the install by this method vs cutting apart the duct work. I used a flexible extension attached to a ratcheting screw driver that allowed fishing the 7/32" (male hex drive) socket between the duct work and bend at 90 deg with the aid of a simple bent pick to guide and engage the actuator bolts. Installation the same process with a dab of super glue on the bolts to help stay in place the socket. (tip: electrical tape all the tool components together to prevent separation/backing off while attempting disassembly/assembly). I found reaching up from the glove box and stabilizing the new actuator with left hand and pushing the recirc door one way the other (finding alignment) with my right hand help seat on the door shaft. Good luck!
Thanks Brian! Just diagnosed my brother's truck with this video. He had two bad actuators! One for the blend door and the recirculation vent. Showed him the filter location and replaced them also. Excellent description of the system and now you have another fan following the channel.
Glad to help- thanks!
What do the recirculation vent do? My issue is the defroster blows out cold air instead of hot! Is that what that do?
@@520dblock3 recirculation vent open and closes depending inside air (AC) or outside air (non AC). Basically "Fresh air" or recirculate AC air.
Great ending to the video Brian. Humility, respect and a willingness to help others is a mantra we all should have. I really enjoy your content, thanks.
+Mathew Wood Thanks Matt!
+briansmobile1 How would I remove the duct that is at 5:14 in the forground? It is impossible to get my hands into the area on my 2001 silverado with center console/cassette deck. There is also a metal bar that goes from the transmission hump to the stearing support. I find a lot of information on the right side of the truck but hardly any information(about making it easier) for the left side.
Thanks for the video! I wish I could do as good a job......
how can I contact you?
Like this. Thanks for the contact!
@@billwhitehead164 aq QA
Very common problem - you are very smart to replace them all at once! Great to see a well done video on this job, Thanks Brian. I still want my simple cable system back!
I must say that this video was extremely helpful! I was able to install a new blend door actuator motor yesterday. It was the passenger side actuator which is the same one that is replaced in the video. The passenger side was stuck on blowing hot air. By removing and replacing that new motor, the issue was fixed! Almost every tip that was provided in this video was super helpful and was provided clearly, concise, and nearly step by step. However, I did not need to cut the HVAC tube like it was cut in this video. I say again, I DID NOT need to cut the HVAC tube! All I needed to do was to remove a couple screws on the driver's side of the dash brackets which allowed me to rock the HVAC tubes in directions which allowed my hands to get in and remove/ install the new blend door actuator motor. After I did the troubleshooting and verified the new motor worked, I was able to button everything up nice and clean. I've got to admit that I was a bit nervous to do this job because I've taken apart a dash on a GMC Sonoma to replace the heater core and it was a nightmare. Performing this fix on my 2004 GMC Sierra was actually super easy all with the help of the man that made this video! So thanks to you, Sir! A tip that I will give is that when purchasing this new blend door actuator motor I suggest not to skimp out on price for the part. I was able to purchase mine through Napa auto parts where they provided a lifetime warranty and a AAA Discount. The part ended up being just over $160. I tried O'Reilly but they said it was strictly a special order item... nobody has time for that. Amazon offers this part for just over $30 but it's a cheap knock off made in China with no warranty at all. Save yourself time, money and heartache and go through Napa.
A Prince among men be ye. I just grabbed a junkyard Drivers side actuator because now its frost here in Canada at night. Thanks for saving me the time of finding that little bugger.
Share the love! Sharing is caring and it never hurts to help.
Stay gold.
Brian, I know this is an older video, but just wanted to let you know this is the best instructional TH-cam video on replacing these actuators, by far! I just completed the replacement of the passenger side temp on my 2005 with automatic temp control. It was a huge pain, as I decided not to cut the duct, which involved even a bit more disassembly, but your video helped immensely! Thanks for being so much help. :-)
Could you put in an estimate of all the actuators,,all of mine will be automatic. My suburban is a 2004 with rear air. I really enjoyed the video and like helping others,,be blessed. Sincerely Ernie Miller
This has to be the most detailed video of this subject I've ever found thank you so you did a great job
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. My drivers side actuator has been spotty for a while, and has been replaced by rubber bands. I've put off doing this job since I couldn't find the locations of the remaining actuators. Thanks again, this was a big help.
This is literally “The Greatest Video on You Tube” about this issue! Thank you so much!!! Very informative and easy to follow. Thank you thank you thank you
Brian, I found this video in 2020 and it is by far the best and most thorough explanation of how this system works. Kudos my friend.
Tremendously helpful! Thank you for taking the time to provide the detailed video. You really saved me a lot of time and frustration... not to mention breaking some stuff in the process. Greatly appreciated Brian!
Thank you for this video! I bought a 2004 Silverado this past Easter, and the only thing wrong with it was the driver's side heater blend actuator was stuck in the heat position, and since we are having a record hot spring in Tennessee this was a problem! I'm used to working on older model Chevys (60's and 70s) where the heat controls are a lever hooked to a physical cable. Without your video I would NEVER have found the actuator! Thanks again
Thank you for this good video! My 2005 silverado has actuator problems. I have been quoted
a replacement cost of $2000.00 for this job. My being told the entire dash has to come out.
You know you’r way around chevy trucks. It’s a good feeling watching a real mechanic
at work. Thanks again for this great video!
Joseph Harrison e
Thankyou for talking to us all and explaining as if we are equals, we are all here to to learn. Some TH-cam video makers are so condescending, it detracts from there own talents. You make it easier to learn, You would make an excellent teacher. Kinda wish You had been mine in the late '70's Your occasional humor and wit are irreplaceable. Thanks!
Finally! A video that showed me where the front passenger side temperature actuator is! By the way, locations of actuators are the same for AUTOmatic controls.
Thank you sir!
Brian this was the best step by step on this job I have found. I was not looking forward to doing it until I saw your video. About 2 hours and done. The cut and tape is the only way to go, you can't find the screws and get to them from the front. I like how other guys just skip over the really difficult steps.Thanks for the help.
Brian, you are an excellent instructor. You have created a well thought out and clearly explained how to video. Thank you!
Thank you I've been working on my trucks ac for 3 days and watched about 15 different videos and none of them lead me to the right blend door for my drivers side your a Saint and a gentleman 😀
your efforts in sharing this will hopefully come back to you, ten fold, thank you.
Learned a lot on that video thank you
That's the way it should work but???
Ive never felt so rewarded from watching a video 👍🏼 thanks for the great info and being a great teacher
Man you are awesome! I was pulling my hair out finding what actuator controls what system. Thanks!!!
Great video with many useful tips. You ask for suggestions. Here's mine. I just replace the passenger side blend door on a '04 Yukon Denali. Instead of cutting the duct that runs at the top of the dash, I drilled two 5/8" holes through the duct directly over the actuator mount screws. The holes can be any size needed to get a socket down to the screw heads. Once free the actuator can be fished out through the dash panel at the left passenger vent hole. Tip: I used a long #10 drill bit to pilot drill the holes making sure the bit exited the duct and could touch the head of the screw. I used plumber's putty in the socket to hold the screw when I reinstalled them. Then I taped the holes with aluminum HVAC tape. That should save a few extra minutes!
What an absolute wonderful video! Thank you so much for it! I would have enjoyed this even if I didn't need to perform this procedure on my truck. I've got the automatic version. Hopefully I have learned enough here to proceed. I don't mind doing the cut and tape method but one has to wonder why GM didn't make it doable to remove the entire duct so it doesn't have to be cut. Thanks again!
Warning warning… if it hasn’t worked since you replaced your battery 2 years ago… lots of dust will blast in your face when you start the engine after replacing the fuse! 😂
Thanks for the video and the comments on the video. Saved me cash and time!
Hey Brian, I did make it to the end, lol. I wanted to thank you for all your informative videos. I've learned some stuff from you and fixed some of my own projects. Thanks, I appreciate you sir.
I did it! I replaced the blend door actuator! Thanks to you and your video. I appreciate how you got to the nitty gritty at the beginning and then into more detail as the vid progressed. You spoke my brain language. Thank you!
2011 Chevrolet Silverado LT
Good video. I like to see repair videos that actually show the repair, not the aftermath. Have you replaced the blower motor yet? Mine works but makes a roaring noise. on the 4 and 5 setting.
I have an 02 silverado and my mode actuator is acting up. I've been putting it off for months because I thought it'd be such a pain. Now I know how easy it is, and I'm going to fix it this weekend! Thanks for your help.
Thanks a lot man!! I've been dealing with my passenger vents blowing hot for 2 years and I live in Florida. I'm no mechanic by far but completed the job with some help in under 3 hours and of course this video. I will admit the biggest pain in the a$$ was cutting that vent. Thanks again
You are an awesome educator, with humor, knowledge, and attention to detail! Loved your branch managers!
Thanks!
One of the best repair videos i have ever watched!! Thank you for your help!!
Very well done. I have a little bit more confidence to try this. I have a 2004 Silverado LT and the control panel is different. I appreciate you doing this. Wished you lived closer so if I get over my head I could come see you. You're good people. Thank you for your kindness.
Great video. I've done this job a few times. This will help a lot of people.
Thank you! Your video saved me a lot of time on my daughter's '04 Yukon Denali. It had defaulted to defrost, which was OK for last winter, but come last May, she needed her A/C. I replaced all the actuators, with the help of your video.
Again, Thank You!Sorry if this a duplicate post. I thought I had already posted it, but when I came across this video I didn't see it.
I'm going back through your videos and finding a lot of gems.
you my friend saved me so much time. I appreciate your efforts. This is my pay it forward moment
Best guide I've found on the interwebs! Kudos! Now to find the correct size socket, my Walmart toolbox doesn't have the right size to take the kick guard off. Thanks for such a great lesson!
I like seeing innovative approaches like this repair. And it's also too hot to go outside today :-P
Hey Brian just wanted to mention as you requested, that you can take out the actuator inside the dash without cutting the duct.
You have to take the other half of the metal bracket that is over the duct on the drivers side off as well. Then you disconnect the duct from the defrost on both ends just pulling the hose off, then you unscrew where it is connected to the dash on both ends.
You pull up on the defrost part of it and it will come up and make a hole big enough to reach in and unscrew the actuator.
I have done it both ways and you would have to be a fool not to cut it awesome video well explained
Thank you so much Brian
You gave me the confidence to attempt this project.
My 2004 3500 had the fancy automatic sensor system.
It was scary because my unit was not like your demo model. Extra options add more crap in the way.
I straight away broke my headlamp ambient light sensor which sent me to the Chevy dealer. Good move because the parts lady printed out a diagram of the duct work for me.
I have small hands and huge determination, I needed both.
I did have to cut some plastic guards out of the way to access the "easy actuator"
If not for you I would not have tried this. I feel more intimate with my Silverado now. You are the best.
Way to go Christine!
You dropped this sir. 🙇🏽♂️👑
Great video! I used your directions for disassembly. Cutting the duct seemed crude, but is REALLY the BEST WAY. I also used the aluminum duct tape. TOP TIPS ! I replaced all of the actuators, too. I have the auto system. Replaced the old style blower control module to the newer single connector type.
Unfortunately, the passenger side still does not get warm. It seemed to work correctly when I had it apart...
Edit: The connector on the pass. temp. actuator had pushed over the male pins on the actuator, so they were not connected. Be aware that the male pins can slide into the unused spaces on the connector. Looks connected, just isnt.
2024 and this video is still giving. Thank you for such a detailed and informative video.
Wonderful video! Literally one of a kind on the internet! Showing all four and their functions. Turns out my problem was the inlet/recirculate actuator. I had a stoke of luck and pushed the door closed in the recirculate position. This solved the loud whirling noise that I've had to listen to for the last ten years! The door was in-between fresh air and recirculate. No more loud whirling noise and a ton of air volume coming out of the vents now!
Thanks!
Almost as bad as changing a northstar starter! Having to cut the air duct to replace those actuators, is to say the least, ridulous!
Thank you Brian! This is exactly the information I have been looking for. My 2005 Silverado, with 262,000 miles on it, recently began blowing hot air on the drivers side, while the passenger side had ca/c air coming out. I found the acuator above the trans hump and removed it, and manually moved the louver in the oppisite position and had cold air now on the drivers side as well. Here is where it gets irritating. When I get into truck and begin to drive it with the a/c on, after about 5 or 6 miles, the driver side gets heat, the passenger side still has a/c. I removed the acuator and it does move. So I backed up the chain and replaced the HVAC control unit just to eliminate that as a source of trouble.
Long story short, I no longer have the acuator moving the louver, but its still connected electially. I miss the heater controls of years past. My 1966 Impala had the best set up of all. Also, I was not aware that the truck has FOUR actuators!! Your video is the best I have seen in a long time.
Dave
Great video! What is the function of the last actuator you show starting at 4:47?
controls the air flow to the vents, I believe. Thats what the 'puck' its attached to is for
I don't even own a chevy silverado but I once had a bad actuator in my saturn aura and a friend did a quick fix to stop the knocking sound. He did't do all you did to get to it so I know it wasn't fixed right but it saved my sanity of hearing that noise lol. But thanks to your video if I have another one ever go out I won't be afraid to fix it myself. It looks time consuming and will take patience so clips don't get broke and every screw gets put back in to every hole but I would definitely tackle replacing a bad actuator on my own now. Thanks for the detailed video, you make it look very doable. Of course every car will be a little different with the order you take it apart I'm sure but for the most part it looks pretty simple to do. I love learning and then fixing my own vehicles. I'm to cheap to pay someone else to do a job I'm more than capable of doing myself. I'll be checking out more of your videos. Thanks for the great detailed into, Brian! Looking forward to watching more!
Love the message at the end :}
Patient? hell bro, that was wall to wall info!! I was riveted...lol
Best HVAC Actuator video I have seen...and I've seen a lot. Thanks for taking the time to explain the dash removal.
I always watch yours to the end! lol
Nine years later and this video still is a huge help. The detail, the walk through, I have an old 2004 Silverado that blows hot even in the summer. NOW, I am going to attack it. Add in the "add a cabin filter" hack and I should be all set. l
U said the older ones are easier to do. i have an 01 silverado is it the same as this one
Maybe older ones he ment 1998
This is the best video on this. All the others just say "blend door actuator" and point to the passenger side. They never mention, THERE ARE FOUR ACTUATORS! Thanks so much for your help!
I miss the days where they just used cables
Yeah the mechanical versions had less to go wrong
That no joke go to the junk yard find any 80s model truck or car and guess what the ac stuff still works need to go back to the cable doors
I still own a 1949 Dodge Pickup. A 1972 Buick Grand Sport, Dual Cowl Hood, High Output car and my favorite is my 1970 & 1/2 Trans Am. Besides a few more newer vehicles and I whole heartily agree.
I do own a dynamic spectrum tuner so I can change and of the computerized parameters on these newer ones but it takes like 30 minutes to advance the timing on my newer stuff and and about two minutes, with a timing light, and a 9/16ths wrench to adjust the timing in my old rods.
There's no need to remove the dash or cut the ducting. Disconnect the battery. Drop the glove box down. Remove both outer passenger vents. Then remove the four 10mm bolts holding the Passenger Side Arbag. Two from underneath and 2 just on the upper inside lip of each vent, and then push out the Air Bag remembering to disconnect the plug. Then, you will have full access to the passenger side Temp Control Actuator while sticking something underneath the ducting to hold it up, so to get to the actuator bolts.
You also will have full access to the Inlet/Reserculation actuator that is to the right as well. This method is much much less evasive and way less time-consuming. Although speaking from experience, the dash believe it or not, is much easier to remove than one would think.
Uther than that this video is very helpful/educational in this subject.
Thank You.
Who here in 2020💯
2024, currently celebrating 5 years of 2 weeks to flatten the curve.
@@EvlEgle 2022
@@gbgceostatusig6796 you've only got 2 more years of covid to go then.
And remember if you make it through the big split, watch out for stalkers.
I'm here in 2021💯
2022
By far one of the best how to videos I have seen. Quick info to start then very detailed after that. You make it look easy. And you sound like a good and humble man. God bless.
Your truck can't blow hot air if you pull the heater core out
Bypassing it is easier
Finally ended up doing this today 7/24/21. I bought a 2003 Silverado 1500, so it does not have the center console. The driver sides where easy to do. Needed help on the passenger side and glad I found this video.
Unfortunately someone else was in here before me. They actually cut the wire (female plug) that goes into the passenger actuator. So luckily found the plug and waiting for it to come in.
Also the blender actuator for the recirculate is a 3 terminal conector not 5 like all of the other ones I’ve done. Ordered that part aswell.
To boot all the clips on the dashboard where broke already, those tabs you mentioned. Looking into a way to fix them. Might just glue them. Thanks for the video!
A Big THANKS , You are Da MAN Great video
Welcome Gispa!
Thank you, great video. I bought a Haynes repair manual and learned more from watching this. I took my dash apart and wasn't really sure what I was looking for until now. You say people are awsome, I say yes you are. Thanks again
You
Great video! Went thru your process with my '04 GMC Sierra, flawless process! One point from a prior experience: pulling the dash panel doesn't need a prying tool; simply pull the bottom right corner towards you to get it started (mine has a bit of the corner exposed for a finger grab), then just work it loose all the way around. This helps minimize mutilation marks.
Brian, Thank you very much. My wife's truck has been blowing hot air for a while. This should fix the problem. I haven't found a more in depth video anywhere. It's much appreciated.
Great video, thanks for not playing loud music or try and be funny like the other videos. This is the best video on the subject I have found. Thanks !!!
Thank you! You just saved me from going and buying actuator with your re calibration advice/walkthrough. I’m blowing cold again! I figured why not and BOOM. YOU ARE THE MAN! 💯🙏🙏🙏
Hey bud, I bought a new wiring harness for the actuator that controls the driver's side, but the new harness has seven wires, with only six pins on the actuator.
I left the seventh wire off, and everything works EXCEPT, once I start driving, it automatically changes back to hot air, only on the driver's side.
Should I connect the seventh wire to some metal nearby, or should I join it to one of the other six splices?
Please advise, thank you.
Just bought a 2003 gmc 1500 sierra 5.3L Vortex that needs lots of work and I located your channel ...... THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!
I have been without a defroster for a year. When I looked under my dash I could not see the motor. Now after watching your video, I see there is duct work that needs to be removed, then I should be able to replace the motor. Your video was very informative and I appreciate that you took the time to share your experience with others. I will be tackling this project next weekend. I will post how it goes.
Brian, I know this is old video back in 2015. this is HUGE help to me as I have 2004 silverado 1500 with manual controls. i have been looking for this type of video to fix all the actuators! HUGE HUGE help. thank so much Brian!!!
This has been one of the most informative videos that I have come across on TH-cam in regards to this subject. Keep up the good work and sharing what I would say is real D.I.Y. content....
Thank you for this! Our passenger side actuator went out two years ago, and, to us, it wasn’t worth the $1K+ that the dealer wanted to fix it, so our poor truck has had it’s passenger side ducts taped closed all that time. Now I have the option of doing something about it. Thanks again.
This is easily the BEST fix video I have ever viewed!
Thanks for a great video. You helped me immensely and got me through the replacement of the blend door and inlet door actuators, both located on the passenger side. Having succeded at that I found the mode control would not work. I had air blowing through defrost only. Various internet sources describe pulling the HVAC fuse (under the hood) or disconnecting the negative battery cable for 5 minutes or so, then turning the key to on (not start) and allowing the actuators a few minutes to automatically recalibrate. After multiple failed attempts this is wnat worked for me. 1) unplug both negative and positive battery cables, 2) hold the two cable ends together for about 30-40 seconds, 3) leave the battery disconnected another 20 minutes, 4) reconnect cables to battery, 5) wait another 5 minutes, 6) get in truck, turn key to on (don't start engine), don't touch climate controls, and allow the actuators about 4 minutes to automatically recalibrate. This is the only method that worked for me. Maybe it will help someone else.
Very well done, I have all the confidence to tear apart my wife's 2005 Suburban. The video is greatly appreciated, you covered all the bases. THANK YOU BRIAN.
Followed your directions exactly, you saved me a lot of time and money! Worked out perfect. Thank you!
WOW! I've seen lots of videos about this but you did it the right way IMO. Thanks for showing this.
I waited all the way through because I need to replace one actuator. The recirculation door one. Based on what you show I may, may be able to change it without cutting anything. We shall see.
Thanks for this video.
I have a 04 duramax with auto/digital HVAC that for over two years the ac would shut off for the driver side at random by itself while driving and in the winter the heat on the drivers side would by luke warm at times and hot on the passenger side. Three garages and some utube video's told me it was the control under the drivers side acting up so I replaced it, seemed to help but just when the temp would be changing outside and a need for heat or cold the same thing. Finally removed the floor blend actuator and took it apart and cleaned it up.. over a year and no problem since. Inside the grease residue was over the contact points, cleaned with alcohol and that did it, working perfectly. Hope this helps
A NEW SUBSCRIBER HERE..I LOVE YOU TOO COMPADRE .. THAT'S WHAT PEOPLE NEEDS.. PACIENCIA.. blessings DALLAS TX.
Great video Brian. I was apprehensive to cut the vent tube assembly but agree with you that it works and probably the only way to change out the air inlet/ circulate actuator. I had previously changed the mode select actuator in 2013. Both blend actuators went out within a month of each other. Decided to replace the air inlet actuator since the entire dashboard area was opened up. Your video helped tremendously. I even purchased the recommended Milwaukee jab saw. It is a great tool. Doing this yourself saved an insane amount of money from taking it to the dealer.
Finishing your video says three things about me. The third thing is that enjoyed it! It is a very informative video. No time wasted, all aspects covered. 👍 Now about the wire routing at 3:42 I would of kept the wire behind, as original from factory. In a dirt road/washboard condition or potholes (I live in Michigan, Pothole Capital!) tucking the wire behind reduces movement as the wire is trapped in place against the screw boss. Just a thought. Although I'll admit I have on occasions re-routed, taped, or tie wrapped wires in additional spots. lol. Once again great video!
Just replaced the driver's side blend actuator. Super easy thanks to your video. Thank you!!!
WOW, Thanks Brian! You saved me time and money with your detailed video and its 108 here. I appreciate the time and effort you put in to carefully walk through the process of fixing this issue. Nice work!
Thanks Mark! Thanks for subscribing and sharing the video too!
Ok I have to thank you for this video. I was determined to install it through the little area so I took out the air bag, bat disconnected of course, the whole thing was very intimidating for me but this video gave me the guts to do it and it worked..... I had a really small 1/4" ratchet and was able to operate its arm with a larger box wrench postured at a 90 around the end and held down the socket with a really long driver through the center passenger vent whole. the socket kept rocking on the bolt so much effort repsoitioning and repositioning the long screw driver through the denter pass vent and have another go. As the screw got deeper, the bolt became more ridgid and was abe to make slow headway with many breaks and explicatives. it took forever but I had plenty of time. I cant thank you enough for this whole thing all apart, I went back couple times to look at which metal bracket went where etc. It took me a bit to get all the tabs up front to catch etc. once again I cleaned all the pieces and the whole thing came out great and I saved just a ton of money.... I was able to watch the thing move back and forth through the center whole with a long light with just the key on.
Hi Brian - awesome thorough video! I am replaced my servo controller for the mode switch with a brand new one. After installing and being proud of getting the two screws and it all aligned I was very proud and ready for a great fix. Unfortunately the new servo did not seem to operate as I hoped. I tried taking out the fuse to initiate the recalibration but that didn't help either. So I dismounted the servo and just watched it while it hanged by it's wire harness. When I disconnected the fuse and turned the ignition on it would go all the way to the counter clockwise index mark. When I plug the fuse back in and turn the ignition on it would go to its full clockwise position index mark and stop. Letting it sit for few minutes with engine running wouldn't do anything and turning the dial wouldn't do anything. It would just stay in the full clockwise position. So I'm not sure if I'm not calibrating it correctly or whether there's an issue with the actual AC control board with the switches and dials. Do you have to clear the code on a scanner? Any suggestions? Thanks!
Watched 6 videos today and this is the best one of them all. Very specific and the steps are perfect.
This video work great. I followed it step by step and didnt have any problems. The self tapping screw at 14:30 only works on some model years. I had the bridge plastic piece but couldn't get under it for a clean cut. But its supported by two screws one on each end
Let me start off by saying THANK YOU. I’ve been trying to figure out why my shit hadn’t worked for over a year now whiteout having to pay and arm and a leg and this video literally just saved me from selling my truck I can’t wait to get the parts and fix it now that I actually know everything I need to to fix it!
Youre impressed? Im impressed! Ty. First video ive seen that lays out every actuator change issue. I wish i found ur video 9 months ago. Keep up the dam good work.