UPDATE: had to replace same motor AGAIN!, though it was acdelco. Read comment below from other guy! YOU DO NOT NEED TO MESS WITH INTERNALS OF MOTOR. IT AUTO CALIBRATES! SEE THE COMMENT FROM OTHER GUY WHO GIVES FULL DETAIL! I used 5.5 socket and small channel lock to get top bolt off. Use finger to push socket on and other hand with channel lock to tighten. Also the duct that sticks out two inches under motor can be pushed down to be angled out of way. I also removed black bar. 3 bolts 13 mm. It is wedged in there. Removing metal plate and bracket to the right of metal bracket under steering column helped as well. If you bought actuator without the cam or black peace you can use a bolt about 3” long to pop the cam out of old actuator. Just use a hammer and vice to hold old actuator. Make sure you remember the orientation of old motor on cam. I used a c clamp to press on new motor to the old cam. Once it is on it is very difficult to remove. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE A PIC OF OLD MOTOR ON CAM FOR REFERENCE. had to put cam and motor together because pushing it on under the dash take way to much force unfortunately. Hope this helps someone like me who was pissed off for the last couple hours. This was on 99-2000 Silverado 4.8 4x4
Thank you for your description of the cam bracket and placing it before the motor. I installed the selector motor incorrectly and your video helped me to install it correctly.
The guy means well but DO NOT FOLLOW HIS ADVICE. Cost me a few hours of frustration and almost $80 for another actuator. The new actuator doesn't care what mode you're in. It self calibrates then moves to whatever you have selected on the control. 1. Remove the old unit with the two bolts. They're annoying but with a small extension you can get to them both. I disconnected some of the ducting to give myself a little more wiggle room. Then unplug the electrical connector. 2. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE NEW ACTUTATOR. They are set from the factory to go into a calibration mode the first time they're installed. If you disassemble (or worse... power it up before it's fully installed) the unit is a paperweight. 3. Install the new actuator. The black guide/stopper on the vehicle should go on first. Then make sure the white gear section is in FRONT of the black actuator area. If the gears are not touching that is okay. From there manually adjust the other white adjustor door (one closer to the firewall) so that it lines up with the actuator groove. 4. Reinstall the two bolts and make sure there isn't wiggle on the unit itself. 5. Plug in the unit and start the truck (give it at least 30 seconds to cycle through before adjusting the HVAC or turning off the truck). DO IT THIS WAY NOT THE WAY THE VIDEO SHOWS. I did that and I wasted 4 hours. I did my 1-5 procedure and it took 15min. Again, the new actuator doesn't care what mode you're in because it will self calibrate upon initial startup. So long as the two door adjusters are on the actuator plate (again the firewall one should be in a slot and the front-most teethed one should be in front of the actuator backing plate) it'll do its thing without your help.
Great advice!!! Followed your method...left the black gear piece in place then fiddled with new actuator to line up with cam. Finally got top screw in, plugged in harness and turned truck to on. Synced itself I guess, it's working properly... for now.
I made the mistake of powering it up to see if it worked, and had to open the case, and re-align the marks by removing the white gear. But no matter what I tried, it still locked up out of range. I pulled the motor from the drive plate, and after re-connecting the battery, it ran through it's cycles. (It moves internally, so you won't see any gear turning, but you can see and feel it wiggle) Re-installed it back on the drive plate, back under the dash, selector switch in floor mode, and it worked like a charm. No need to buy a new one.
Thank u for the valuble vedio. One step needs to be done before that is to recalibirate the actuators. I unplugged the hvac batt 10amp fuse for 1 to 2 min and put it back. Run the car for 2 min with ac off. Turn off car then start again and turn on ac. And it worked.
Thanks for the video. I got my mode actuator changed. Wasnt comfortable but I did it from the floor underneath. I didnt remove the cam. Took about an hour . Has to tape the screw to the socket to get started
Cant you just leave the cam in the car and loosen the motor and pry it off carefully. I see where you mentioned a punch or philip screw driver so I have to image if you can get a small flat head or pri bar in there you could just pop it out and put another without taking it all apart.
Great video, best one for GM that I have seen. You do a great job of capturing every detail needed for this job. Helped me tremendously thank you for your time.
The one thing that kept messing up my install was the white gear off the HVAC box was rotated. I couldn’t get the gears synced resulting in only air in the dash and defrost vent. No bottom vent air. The solution was to manually rotate the white gear to approximately the 6 o’clock position. Then everything sat flush and it now works perfectly.
2004 Chev Tahoe: I purchased a replacement actuator with attached gear plate. I unplugged the harness, removed and replaced the unit. I disconnected the battery and waited 10 minutes. I reconnected the battery and plugged the harness into the unit. I started the vehicle and let it run for a while. No problems - it re-calibrated and settled in the position corresponding to the panel control.
Why do they get stuck on the defrost? Is it like a safety feature? That way if it the actuator breaks it goes to defrost so that way if your window fogs up we can still see
This is by far the most frustrating thing I’ve ever attempted. I’ve got motor and cam off. Now I can’t get the cam to line up with with cam gear and go back on.
So I get moving the cam to the defrost position....Should the control dial also be on the defroster position? Common sense tells me yes but would like a "YES" on it. Great video by the way thank you!
I replaced the actuator like you said and recaplivrared it cause it didn't work. All it does is when I turn the key to the on position it goes from defrost to face vents back to defrost and does nothing else. So I replaced that actuator to see if that fixed it and it does the same thing. Do you or anyone know what the problem could be? I have the auto ac unit
I get to do this on a Yukon Denali with a huge center console with a CD player infotainment center cuz it's an '02 and it's smaller - but it has a huge console
Just spent 4 hours under my dash figuring out best method to reinstall mode door actuator. Hints: 1) Have the actuator on the cam plate then mark externally the position/direction that it fits with a something bright. I used a bright sticker and cut to the size of the shaft that sticks thru the actuator. Now put a sticker on the actuator and the corresponding sticker on the cam so when you seperate them they can line up easy. 2) Now pull the actuator off the cam plate. 3) Place the cam plate up into the mode door area under the dash. Match up gears on the cam to the white gears. After its matched up you'll have to run your fingers behind the cam plate and flip the pin down until it goes into the cam plate channel. Keep trying you'll get it. 3) carefully push on the cam plate and rotate while the air is running to make sure its working out the different vents and that the pin hasn't slipped out of position.*** Important ** if you tested and its working leave the air running( The air causes the cam plate to get sucked in and you can easily rotate to the position that is best suited to attach the actuator. You should be able to attach fairly easy since you marked the position of the shaft with the stickers. Make sure while your sliding it on you have it lined up with the screws that are going to hold it in place. 4) Screw in the 2 screws 5) Before plugging in find a video on calibrating actuators for GM.. Good luck.
Great video. You can pull the HVAC fuse for a minute, then plug back in and key on, then the system recalibrates to the new actuator. Do not force the plate to any new position, it will damage the gears.
i know this is an old comment but i’m having the same issue i tried the recalibration process several times and couldn’t get it to stay on anything but defrost it would move to face vents for a few seconds and then just go by itself to defrost
I just did this on a 01 Silverado. I noticed every time you take the fuses out and recalibrate it goes to defrost mode even though when installed it's on floor mode. So i left the dash setting on defrost mode. Let it calibrate and worked good. If you mess up you can open up the actuator realign the gear making the lines horizontal and try again.
yes i thought my activator was bad so i took it out... its actually the linkage is broken inside i think..no videos on how to fix...anyway after removing activator white gear is free to move downward which direct cold air out all cabin vents in my truck...so i have no defroster...no big deal...
Thank for the in-depth explanation(s). I've watched 4-5 videos "similar" to your but no one mentioned syncing the hardware with the computer. Sounds like you might have been short a hand or two during the re-install. I'll have to watch this more that once to get it all. THANKS!
This video is very clear and easy to understand. You saved my bacon on two things. One: I carefully removed the motor and left the cam in place. Two: I manually set the cam to, DEFROST, and left it on while installing the actuator. When done I: One: Removed the fuse for 10 minutes. Two: Re installed the fuse. Three: Turned the key to run position and let all the actuators talk back and forth with the computer. It solved the problem. I have now replaced all three actuators on my 2004 suburban with 220,000 Miles. It is a fine towing machine so I think I will leave this world before it does. Thanks Noel Reuland
Save yourself a hassle. Disconnect the negative on the batt. Replace part carefully, screw it down then plug it. Give it a few secs so it recalibrate. Worked like a charm for me. Easy peasy, part #604-113
This has been a nightmare for me I've had a hell of a time I put one in it didn't work because it was the wrong one this one I can't even get in the hole
YESSSSS!!!! Thank you my man. Spote on with the moving to defrost before plugging in secret. I spent 2 days fumbling around with that stupid thing like it was stupid. Thank you again. I have not tried it yet but I will try it soon and post my results here. Thank you!
This worked on 99 Silverado, but the new motor did not wanna separate from cam so I had to install whole unit as one. It can be done, but not fun. Also recommended moving duct underneath actuator. I had to remove ductwork on passenger side first to be able to push it it about an inch out of the way
AC Delco 1573620 is the part for my 03 Avalanche. Go to Rock Auto and select your make/model/year. Under heat and air, look for heater blend door actuator. Lots to choose from
This video is a great heads up!! My 2004 Silverado would freak out and get stuck. When my AC would blow out of the front, I could hear a clicking/knocking noise and my floor vents wouldn't work. Setting that cam gear in "center" position is key.
excellent, i got all working because of your suggestion about setting defrost on the dash to on. then remove the idler gear inside the actuator motor housing so it can be freely moved to approx the 9 oclock position in relation to the cog wheel and voila. the damn thing went together without a hitch and all is functioning correctly. thanks again my man ! also i should mention my truck is a 2000 silverado with manual air not auto temp. good luck to everyone else
Aweseome video. Fixed my 2003 GMC Sierra. Pain in the arse but I think I found a couple of tricks to make it a little easier. First, if you turn the blower on before you reinstall motor, the air pressure will hold the door in the defrost position for you. Second, if you open up the new module you can easily lift the second to last gear in the little box so that the last big gear rotates freely. This allows you to set it in the defrost position and pop it right into place. Careful with doing that as the last gear is connected to a feedback potentiometer that needs to be rotated with the gear to stay in range. Had no issues with the computer recalibrating the positions after doing this.
Heyy i have a chevy tahoe 2002 I have a question I I dont get cold ac air only hot in both ways I changed the one that goes on the bottom still the same problem what could it be ?
Thank You! I looked at a few videos and yours was the clearest. I was concerned about getting it synced up but your comments and demo was Great! Thanks again.
Super video!! A couple of tips if u don’t want to disassemble big slotted guide from actuator. U can get the geared one in the slot first. Even to the point of starting lower screw. Then take about a six inch piece of wire and move the top white one into its slot. I didn’t want to separate the guide from the actuator. It takes a little wiggling to get the top one in.
There is a small worm gear on the drive motor and other gears that give a large reduction at final drive output. If you try to force movement you WILL BREAK TEETH on the small pinion gear. Instead of trying to move by hand, it's important to have the unit (and control knob or dial) in the middle or central position at install. Additionally, if you managed to move the unit manually, you run the risk of getting the controller out of sync and possiblity out of electronic control range.
I disconnected my battery and unplugged the actuator for a few minutes and plugged it back up and it worked again. Glad I tried that before pulling the actuator off
Did your problem stay fixed just doing this? Mine only was on defrost. I unplugged the 5 prong power source and manually moved the flapper thing. Then plugged the power back in. It now works, but when I have it set on the face setting I can hear my actuator clicking like it is still cycling. If I turn it to face/feet it stops clicking and cycling. I have not unplugged and disconnected the battery yet though. Was going to try that next. Thanks for any input. 2002 GMC Sierra by the way.
I had this same problem and the fix was to recalibrate the actuator. To do this, I plugged in the new actuator and just let it hang down from the wires so it could move freely. Next I disconnected the battery for several minutes. Then I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition key to "on" (not start). I watched the actuator as it moved in one direction until it hit its built in limit stop, then it reversed and moved the other direction until it hit the other limit stop. I had my controls set to AUTO so after it hit the 2nd limit stop it moved again to roughly the middle of the range and then stopped. At this point, calibration was complete so I turned the key off for 15 seconds then turned it back to "on". I turned the control knob to defrost and the actuator moved all the way to one limit, confirming proper calibration. The install was easy after that. Oh and I took the advice from the video and installed the cam first, then the actuator second. I had to drill out the hole that the cam shaft fits into because it was too tight. It doesn't need to be tight.
They are not supposed to come apart. I think I ruined a brand new ac delco one trying to get the came wheel off. It was pressed on really good. Trying to knock the cam gear of the entire center of the actuator came off. Do not listen to this guy.
I own a 2001 GMC Sierra, my mode door is stuck on the face vents (no defrost or floor). I'm seriously considering doing this myself, if I'm understanding correctly here, can you just remove the motor only and not the plastic cam portion or does both motor and cam come out together?
Remove the 2 screws from the motor before you pry it off. that would be a bad this to forget. also. the top screw is a royal pain. just be patient. it will come out. I had to make 1/16 in. turns at a time. had to make a wrench to get in there that would work. Only took me an hour to get it done on my 2002 GMC 2500 sierra. Good Luck.
I am holding one of these in hand right now, a good used mode door actuator from a 2002 Avalanche, and there is no way that I can turn the actuator motor thru the output shaft by applying rotational force on the cam piece, it does not turn that way and it will break if I apply any more force. I have had the cover off a couple of these actuators and simple mechanical reasoning tells me there is no way you can turn the worm screw on the drive motor by inverting all that mechanical gear leverage the little motor uses back against it thru those plastic gears thru the output shaft. But since you say it can be done, (without actually demonstrating it on video) I tried it for grins. Mine, which is the same as yours, will not move with any force below the breaking point. It will need to have the case opened and the gears re positioned, or run to a desired position by applying the appropriate voltage to the correct pins.
Use a short 5.5mm socket with a ¼" square to hex adapter (like you would use to drive the socket with a drill), and the put the hex end of the adapter on a ratcheting box end wrench.
Use the 5.5mm between your fingers to start it and tighten it as far as you can. Leave the socket on the bolt and push a 2" extension into the socket. It will wedge in under the bracket that's in your way. Then finish tightening it with your smallest headed ¹/⁴ ratchet.
Thanks for the video this helps me see it better since I am not laying upside down :) I broke a gear inside the new actuator trying to clock the new actuator (yes carefully) Luckily the old actuator gear was OK and I was able to swap it, but its so easy to open,if you need to reposition it, it might be safer to open it, remove idler gear, then reposition.
I spent 4 hrs trying to get that thing synced up, i swear its impossible. Best i could get was defrost and defrost/ feet settings. Hats off to you for figuring it out cause i sure cant
@@kindredspiritzz66 I struggled too until I decided to recalibrate the actuator. That fixed my problem. Remove actuator and let it hang down from the wires, then disconned battery for several minutes, reconnect battery, roll key forward and watch actuator travel through its full range hitting both limit stops. Once it hasn't moved in like 30 seconds you can turn the key off, wait 15 seconds, then turn the key back on and turn your knob to defrost and watch the actuator move all the way to one limit stop.
@@jimmywilson338 You have just saved my life. I made the mistake of powering it up to see if it worked, and had to open the case, and re-align the marks by removing the white gear. But no matter what I tried, it still locked up out of range. I pulled the motor from the drive plate, and after re-connecting the battery, it ran through it's cycles. (It moves internally, so you won't see any gear turning, but you can see and feel it wiggle) Re-installed it back on the drive plate, back under the dash, selector switch in floor mode, and it worked like a charm. THANK YOU!!!!!!
You'd have to rock the motor back and forth while holding the cam in place which would be tricky at best. Once you unscrew the motor the cam is no longer secured. My technique was to remove as a unit and reinstall cam, then motor.
Being in the place it is, this is quite difficult. I was able to get the old one off but have no idea how the install will go. Your tip about installing the cam alone sounds like a great idea. I am going to try it that way and see how it goes. Thanks for the very informative video!
I am decades DIY Shade Tree ~ I have obtained a shop-vac just to clean it and wasted nearly ½ on the free money on this sort of thing; 1-st things first I installed an anti-oxidant from electricians on other side hot-cold blend & Instantly like Puff the Magic Dragon meets El Cartel de las Ally Gators it instantly flop-flop-flop the chink-o-matic plastic door ~so that is not a "cheat" it is doing it right; Then if plausible consider some sort of manual thing and just to away with the gizmo which is a dollar nineteen / unit at the factory before distribution that auto jobbers and wholesalers are getting $119 for the unit that actually works • Then if want to attempt you get an ounce of FEMA → Fentanyl Enhanced Mood Alteration and cool down like a clown then ingest an entire bottle of Contortionist Plasticizer and gently as sleeping snail do the work >>> If you bust anything get some aluminum HVAC tape → Nashua 322 multi-purpose HVAC foil tape is specially designed for cheating it in as this is how professionals R&R failed heater coil in older vehicles ○ This tape is strong and will hold any of it ◙ If choose to replace the actual servo look for automotive supply jobbers similar to PBE Jobbers 10390 Shady Trail Ste 106, Dallas, TX 75220 and get prepared to need Preparation Hell in the large size *It is the connector not the servo* _YOU USE ANTIOXIDANT ON THE WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR_ ○ Then if you remain alive you can put qualified cartel agent on your CV
When you first power the new motor on it should be in the defrost position. The 'brain' assumes the cam is in full defrost at power on then runs in the other direction all the way to vent. If the cam isn't in defrost at power on you'll have limited cam travel.
Geez, finally got it. Thanks for the help. You forgot to mention that you have to stand on your head to do this, lol.
UPDATE: had to replace same motor AGAIN!, though it was acdelco. Read comment below from other guy! YOU DO NOT NEED TO MESS WITH INTERNALS OF MOTOR. IT AUTO CALIBRATES! SEE THE COMMENT FROM OTHER GUY WHO GIVES FULL DETAIL!
I used 5.5 socket and small channel lock to get top bolt off. Use finger to push socket on and other hand with channel lock to tighten.
Also the duct that sticks out two inches under motor can be pushed down to be angled out of way.
I also removed black bar. 3 bolts 13 mm. It is wedged in there.
Removing metal plate and bracket to the right of metal bracket under steering column helped as well.
If you bought actuator without the cam or black peace you can use a bolt about 3” long to pop the cam out of old actuator. Just use a hammer and vice to hold old actuator. Make sure you remember the orientation of old motor on cam.
I used a c clamp to press on new motor to the old cam. Once it is on it is very difficult to remove. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE A PIC OF OLD MOTOR ON CAM FOR REFERENCE.
had to put cam and motor together because pushing it on under the dash take way to much force unfortunately.
Hope this helps someone like me who was pissed off for the last couple hours.
This was on 99-2000 Silverado 4.8 4x4
Thank you. Your video was spot on. The tip about moving the cam bracket position to defrost was the trick. I now have a working unit again.
I will give it a try as well. Spent all day today with no luck.
Wow its people like you that make a community great! I believe I speak for everyone, we appreciate the technical details!
Thank you for your description of the cam bracket and placing it before the motor. I installed the selector motor incorrectly and your video helped me to install it correctly.
The guy means well but DO NOT FOLLOW HIS ADVICE. Cost me a few hours of frustration and almost $80 for another actuator. The new actuator doesn't care what mode you're in. It self calibrates then moves to whatever you have selected on the control.
1. Remove the old unit with the two bolts. They're annoying but with a small extension you can get to them both. I disconnected some of the ducting to give myself a little more wiggle room. Then unplug the electrical connector.
2. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE NEW ACTUTATOR. They are set from the factory to go into a calibration mode the first time they're installed. If you disassemble (or worse... power it up before it's fully installed) the unit is a paperweight.
3. Install the new actuator. The black guide/stopper on the vehicle should go on first. Then make sure the white gear section is in FRONT of the black actuator area. If the gears are not touching that is okay. From there manually adjust the other white adjustor door (one closer to the firewall) so that it lines up with the actuator groove.
4. Reinstall the two bolts and make sure there isn't wiggle on the unit itself.
5. Plug in the unit and start the truck (give it at least 30 seconds to cycle through before adjusting the HVAC or turning off the truck).
DO IT THIS WAY NOT THE WAY THE VIDEO SHOWS. I did that and I wasted 4 hours. I did my 1-5 procedure and it took 15min.
Again, the new actuator doesn't care what mode you're in because it will self calibrate upon initial startup. So long as the two door adjusters are on the actuator plate (again the firewall one should be in a slot and the front-most teethed one should be in front of the actuator backing plate) it'll do its thing without your help.
Thats man !
Great advice!!! Followed your method...left the black gear piece in place then fiddled with new actuator to line up with cam. Finally got top screw in, plugged in harness and turned truck to on. Synced itself I guess, it's working properly... for now.
I made the mistake of powering it up to see if it worked, and had to open the case, and re-align the marks by removing the white gear. But no matter what I tried, it still locked up out of range. I pulled the motor from the drive plate, and after re-connecting the battery, it ran through it's cycles. (It moves internally, so you won't see any gear turning, but you can see and feel it wiggle) Re-installed it back on the drive plate, back under the dash, selector switch in floor mode, and it worked like a charm. No need to buy a new one.
This is the way. Thank you so much!
why would powering up the actuator before its fully installed make it a paperweight? thank you
Thank you for the tips.. replaced mine yesterday and your tips helped.
Thank u for the valuble vedio. One step needs to be done before that is to recalibirate the actuators. I unplugged the hvac batt 10amp fuse for 1 to 2 min and put it back. Run the car for 2 min with ac off. Turn off car then start again and turn on ac. And it worked.
Thanks for the video. I got my mode actuator changed. Wasnt comfortable but I did it from the floor underneath. I didnt remove the cam. Took about an hour . Has to tape the screw to the socket to get started
It would be nice if you actually filmed it as you take it off and put back on.
Thanks mate! I have to replace the actuator and this video helps a lot!
Cant you just leave the cam in the car and loosen the motor and pry it off carefully. I see where you mentioned a punch or philip screw driver so I have to image if you can get a small flat head or pri bar in there you could just pop it out and put another without taking it all apart.
You can, just be carful with it
Great video, best one for GM that I have seen. You do a great job of capturing every detail needed for this job. Helped me tremendously thank you for your time.
The one thing that kept messing up my install was the white gear off the HVAC box was rotated. I couldn’t get the gears synced resulting in only air in the dash and defrost vent. No bottom vent air. The solution was to manually rotate the white gear to approximately the 6 o’clock position. Then everything sat flush and it now works perfectly.
2004 Chev Tahoe: I purchased a replacement actuator with attached gear plate. I unplugged the harness, removed and replaced the unit. I disconnected the battery and waited 10 minutes. I reconnected the battery and plugged the harness into the unit. I started the vehicle and let it run for a while. No problems - it re-calibrated and settled in the position corresponding to the panel control.
Why do they get stuck on the defrost? Is it like a safety feature? That way if it the actuator breaks it goes to defrost so that way if your window fogs up we can still see
Anyone did this repair and record it..... ima visual learner I gotta see how you do it
This is by far the most frustrating thing I’ve ever attempted. I’ve got motor and cam off. Now I can’t get the cam to line up with with cam gear and go back on.
Yeah., Tight Quarters & Poor Visibility. Took Me Two Hours Of Cursing To Finish It.
So I get moving the cam to the defrost position....Should the control dial also be on the defroster position? Common sense tells me yes but would like a "YES" on it. Great video by the way thank you!
I replaced the actuator like you said and recaplivrared it cause it didn't work. All it does is when I turn the key to the on position it goes from defrost to face vents back to defrost and does nothing else. So I replaced that actuator to see if that fixed it and it does the same thing. Do you or anyone know what the problem could be? I have the auto ac unit
visual of this being installed would be of way more benefit tthan all your explanation
Thank you very much😊👍🙏
I get to do this on a Yukon Denali with a huge center console with a CD player infotainment center cuz it's an '02 and it's smaller - but it has a huge console
I can't get to the top bolt of the actuator to take it off
How did y’all get the top bolt out I can’t fit anything in there
Thanks a lot very good explanation!
You need to get over that cold, and redo the video!!!
Thank you for the video but please stop sucking on your teeth during the video lol
In my defense I had a cold when I shot the vid. 😂
Lmao! That's fair 😂😄
You are much better than most. Clear precise and extremely informative. Thank you from Mississippi
Hardest part is getting it lined up to put the motor back on, so it'll lineup with the screw holes
Amazon sells just the gear for 12 bucks
-- Hey thumbs up. Can you leave the cam in there and replace the motor?
Just spent 4 hours under my dash figuring out best method to reinstall mode door actuator.
Hints:
1) Have the actuator on the cam plate then mark externally the position/direction that it fits with a something bright. I used a bright sticker and cut to the size of the shaft that sticks thru the actuator. Now put a sticker on the actuator and the corresponding sticker on the cam so when you seperate them they can line up easy.
2) Now pull the actuator off the cam plate.
3) Place the cam plate up into the mode door area under the dash. Match up gears on the cam to the white gears. After its matched up you'll have to run your fingers behind the cam plate and flip the pin down until it goes into the cam plate channel. Keep trying you'll get it.
3) carefully push on the cam plate and rotate while the air is running to make sure its working out the different vents and that the pin hasn't slipped out of position.*** Important ** if you tested and its working leave the air running( The air causes the cam plate to get sucked in and you can easily rotate to the position that is best suited to attach the actuator. You should be able to attach fairly easy since you marked the position of the shaft with the stickers. Make sure while your sliding it on you have it lined up with the screws that are going to hold it in place.
4) Screw in the 2 screws
5) Before plugging in find a video on calibrating actuators for GM..
Good luck.
The actuator will only go on cam shaft on two positions, one right and one wrong,the one where you can screw it to the plate/cam is the right one.
@@americafirst2785 I mark it so Its easier to see the position under the dash
why do you click your tongue so much?
stop smacking your lips
Great video. You can pull the HVAC fuse for a minute, then plug back in and key on, then the system recalibrates to the new actuator. Do not force the plate to any new position, it will damage the gears.
I tried pulling the fuse and my bew actuator doesn't work
i know this is an old comment but i’m having the same issue i tried the recalibration process several times and couldn’t get it to stay on anything but defrost it would move to face vents for a few seconds and then just go by itself to defrost
@@howardk04I’m having the same problem with my 2006 avalanche right now
I just did this on a 01 Silverado. I noticed every time you take the fuses out and recalibrate it goes to defrost mode even though when installed it's on floor mode. So i left the dash setting on defrost mode. Let it calibrate and worked good. If you mess up you can open up the actuator realign the gear making the lines horizontal and try again.
yes i thought my activator was bad so i took it out... its actually the linkage is broken inside i think..no videos on how to fix...anyway after removing activator white gear is free to move downward which direct cold air out all cabin vents in my truck...so i have no defroster...no big deal...
You didnt show you installing it I was wonder what tricks u did to install it
I’m unable to get to the top screw in my truck. What tool did you use to be able to get in there?
Thank for the in-depth explanation(s). I've watched 4-5 videos "similar" to your but no one mentioned syncing the hardware with the computer. Sounds like you might have been short a hand or two during the re-install. I'll have to watch this more that once to get it all. THANKS!
Finally someone speaking English
omg cough again!!!
This video is very clear and easy to understand.
You saved my bacon on two things.
One: I carefully removed the motor and left the cam in place.
Two: I manually set the cam to, DEFROST, and left it on while installing the actuator.
When done I:
One: Removed the fuse for 10 minutes.
Two: Re installed the fuse.
Three: Turned the key to run position and let all the actuators talk back and forth with the computer.
It solved the problem.
I have now replaced all three actuators on my 2004 suburban with 220,000 Miles.
It is a fine towing machine so I think I will leave this world before it does.
Thanks
Noel Reuland
Save yourself a hassle. Disconnect the negative on the batt. Replace part carefully, screw it down then plug it. Give it a few secs so it recalibrate. Worked like a charm for me. Easy peasy, part #604-113
So make sure cam is in defrost pos
We installed a new one. Went to run it and it stayed in the defrost position. Then now it doesn't move at all.
Good job. Got mind working. Put in defrost mode disconnected battery. Worked fine. Thanks alote.
L
This has been a nightmare for me I've had a hell of a time I put one in it didn't work because it was the wrong one this one I can't even get in the hole
Hey man Thankx for the video. I know it’s been up for awhile but it’s still helping folks!!!
Thank you
I have been trying to out this all back together since last summer
😂
That limit point defrost is what keeps happening
YESSSSS!!!! Thank you my man. Spote on with the moving to defrost before plugging in secret. I spent 2 days fumbling around with that stupid thing like it was stupid. Thank you again. I have not tried it yet but I will try it soon and post my results here. Thank you!
You showed no work whatsoever on removal or replacement of the mode actuator thanks for nothing
This worked on 99 Silverado, but the new motor did not wanna separate from cam so I had to install whole unit as one. It can be done, but not fun. Also recommended moving duct underneath actuator. I had to remove ductwork on passenger side first to be able to push it it about an inch out of the way
Do you have a part number and correct name to the actuator?
I own a 2002 Silverado and have the exact problem you are detailing on the video.
AC Delco 1573620 is the part for my 03 Avalanche. Go to Rock Auto and select your make/model/year. Under heat and air, look for heater blend door actuator. Lots to choose from
You saved me a $500 quote at the garage. Thanks for such a thorough video!
This video was extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share.
This video is a great heads up!! My 2004 Silverado would freak out and get stuck. When my AC would blow out of the front, I could hear a clicking/knocking noise and my floor vents wouldn't work. Setting that cam gear in "center" position is key.
excellent, i got all working because of your suggestion about setting defrost on the dash to on. then remove the idler gear inside the actuator motor housing so it can be freely moved to approx the 9 oclock position in relation to the cog wheel and voila. the damn thing went together without a hitch and all is functioning correctly. thanks again my man ! also i should mention my truck is a 2000 silverado with manual air not auto temp. good luck to everyone else
Mine is just the opposite the gear triangle moves defrost door air the little lever is floor or dash
Aweseome video. Fixed my 2003 GMC Sierra. Pain in the arse but I think I found a couple of tricks to make it a little easier. First, if you turn the blower on before you reinstall motor, the air pressure will hold the door in the defrost position for you. Second, if you open up the new module you can easily lift the second to last gear in the little box so that the last big gear rotates freely. This allows you to set it in the defrost position and pop it right into place. Careful with doing that as the last gear is connected to a feedback potentiometer that needs to be rotated with the gear to stay in range. Had no issues with the computer recalibrating the positions after doing this.
Heyy i have a chevy tahoe 2002 I have a question I I dont get cold ac air only hot in both ways I changed the one that goes on the bottom still the same problem what could it be ?
Thank you! Going to try this.
That's a good idea
Love how you open it up and showed us ...u are awesome! U got a like from me !!
Thanks. Worked for me on my 2005 Silverado 1500. Appreciate it man!
Thank You! I looked at a few videos and yours was the clearest. I was concerned about getting it synced up but your comments and demo was Great! Thanks again.
I would take a picture of the old installation
Thank you for your video. You saved me hours. of headache.
Same part/problem, 01 suburban 2500
how did u order the part ?i ordered it but got wrong one and guys in the parts department domt seem tp know
Super video!! A couple of tips if u don’t want to disassemble big slotted guide from actuator. U can get the geared one in the slot first. Even to the point of starting lower screw. Then take about a six inch piece of wire and move the top white one into its slot. I didn’t want to separate the guide from the actuator. It takes a little wiggling to get the top one in.
There is a small worm gear on the drive motor and other gears that give a large reduction at final drive output. If you try to force movement you WILL BREAK TEETH on the small pinion gear. Instead of trying to move by hand, it's important to have the unit (and control knob or dial) in the middle or central position at install. Additionally, if you managed to move the unit manually, you run the risk of getting the controller out of sync and possiblity out of electronic control range.
Has anyone ever took the top white gear off my gears are messed up .. after changing motor it's hanging up
You are a lifesaver, my friend.
This video was a great help. Thank you
What is the part number?
Thanks This Video Made My Installation A Lot Easier
Thanks for the vital info! Its got up to 100 degrees out here and a cold defroster isn’t cutting it
I disconnected my battery and unplugged the actuator for a few minutes and plugged it back up and it worked again. Glad I tried that before pulling the actuator off
Did your problem stay fixed just doing this? Mine only was on defrost. I unplugged the 5 prong power source and manually moved the flapper thing. Then plugged the power back in. It now works, but when I have it set on the face setting I can hear my actuator clicking like it is still cycling. If I turn it to face/feet it stops clicking and cycling. I have not unplugged and disconnected the battery yet though. Was going to try that next. Thanks for any input. 2002 GMC Sierra by the way.
Bought a new one doesn't seem to index far enough to cover all modes. Need almost 180 degrees rotation
I had this same problem and the fix was to recalibrate the actuator. To do this, I plugged in the new actuator and just let it hang down from the wires so it could move freely. Next I disconnected the battery for several minutes. Then I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition key to "on" (not start). I watched the actuator as it moved in one direction until it hit its built in limit stop, then it reversed and moved the other direction until it hit the other limit stop. I had my controls set to AUTO so after it hit the 2nd limit stop it moved again to roughly the middle of the range and then stopped. At this point, calibration was complete so I turned the key off for 15 seconds then turned it back to "on". I turned the control knob to defrost and the actuator moved all the way to one limit, confirming proper calibration. The install was easy after that. Oh and I took the advice from the video and installed the cam first, then the actuator second. I had to drill out the hole that the cam shaft fits into because it was too tight. It doesn't need to be tight.
@@jimmywilson338 thank you I will try that method
Mine does not have those gears on the cam
They are not supposed to come apart. I think I ruined a brand new ac delco one trying to get the came wheel off. It was pressed on really good. Trying to knock the cam gear of the entire center of the actuator came off. Do not listen to this guy.
I own a 2001 GMC Sierra, my mode door is stuck on the face vents (no defrost or floor). I'm seriously considering doing this myself, if I'm understanding correctly here, can you just remove the motor only and not the plastic cam portion or does both motor and cam come out together?
You can leave the cam in. I used a small pry tool to gently get between the motor and the cam. I popped right out with no damage. Hope that helps.
Remove the 2 screws from the motor before you pry it off. that would be a bad this to forget. also. the top screw is a royal pain. just be patient. it will come out. I had to make 1/16 in. turns at a time. had to make a wrench to get in there that would work. Only took me an hour to get it done on my 2002 GMC 2500 sierra. Good Luck.
Mine 06 Silverado stuck on the face vents also...Wasn't fun for the winter w/o a defrost.
Well explained. Thanks!
99 silverado or GMC through 06 there the same method 👍
I am holding one of these in hand right now, a good used mode door actuator from a 2002 Avalanche, and there is no way that I can turn the actuator motor thru the output shaft by applying rotational force on the cam piece, it does not turn that way and it will break if I apply any more force. I have had the cover off a couple of these actuators and simple mechanical reasoning tells me there is no way you can turn the worm screw on the drive motor by inverting all that mechanical gear leverage the little motor uses back against it thru those plastic gears thru the output shaft. But since you say it can be done, (without actually demonstrating it on video) I tried it for grins. Mine, which is the same as yours, will not move with any force below the breaking point. It will need to have the case opened and the gears re positioned, or run to a desired position by applying the appropriate voltage to the correct pins.
Any tips on getting to that top bolt I can’t seem to get it
Use a short 5.5mm socket with a ¼" square to hex adapter (like you would use to drive the socket with a drill), and the put the hex end of the adapter on a ratcheting box end wrench.
Use the 5.5mm between your fingers to start it and tighten it as far as you can. Leave the socket on the bolt and push a 2" extension into the socket. It will wedge in under the bracket that's in your way. Then finish tightening it with your smallest headed ¹/⁴ ratchet.
Thanks for the video this helps me see it better since I am not laying upside down :)
I broke a gear inside the new actuator trying to clock the new actuator (yes carefully)
Luckily the old actuator gear was OK and I was able to swap it, but its so easy to open,if you need to reposition it, it might be safer to open it, remove idler gear, then reposition.
thank u for the info i was looking for a video on the mode actuator but kept finding only videos with blend door actuator lol
I spent 4 hrs trying to get that thing synced up, i swear its impossible. Best i could get was defrost and defrost/ feet settings. Hats off to you for figuring it out cause i sure cant
and the motor was $53 at auto zone and $140 at Oreillys , not $10
@@kindredspiritzz66 I struggled too until I decided to recalibrate the actuator. That fixed my problem. Remove actuator and let it hang down from the wires, then disconned battery for several minutes, reconnect battery, roll key forward and watch actuator travel through its full range hitting both limit stops. Once it hasn't moved in like 30 seconds you can turn the key off, wait 15 seconds, then turn the key back on and turn your knob to defrost and watch the actuator move all the way to one limit stop.
@@jimmywilson338 You have just saved my life. I made the mistake of powering it up to see if it worked, and had to open the case, and re-align the marks by removing the white gear. But no matter what I tried, it still locked up out of range. I pulled the motor from the drive plate, and after re-connecting the battery, it ran through it's cycles. (It moves internally, so you won't see any gear turning, but you can see and feel it wiggle) Re-installed it back on the drive plate, back under the dash, selector switch in floor mode, and it worked like a charm. THANK YOU!!!!!!
@@wfdbackdraft Awesome! I'm glad this helped!
@@alphaquickship176 ahhh I see you must of voted for Trump.
Can you remove the motor without removing the cam
You'd have to rock the motor back and forth while holding the cam in place which would be tricky at best. Once you unscrew the motor the cam is no longer secured. My technique was to remove as a unit and reinstall cam, then motor.
Being in the place it is, this is quite difficult. I was able to get the old one off but have no idea how the install will go. Your tip about installing the cam alone sounds like a great idea. I am going to try it that way and see how it goes. Thanks for the very informative video!
I am decades DIY Shade Tree ~ I have obtained a shop-vac just to clean it and wasted nearly ½ on the free money on this sort of thing; 1-st things first I installed an anti-oxidant from electricians on other side hot-cold blend & Instantly like Puff the Magic Dragon meets El Cartel de las Ally Gators it instantly flop-flop-flop the chink-o-matic plastic door ~so that is not a "cheat" it is doing it right; Then if plausible consider some sort of manual thing and just to away with the gizmo which is a dollar nineteen / unit at the factory before distribution that auto jobbers and wholesalers are getting $119 for the unit that actually works • Then if want to attempt you get an ounce of FEMA → Fentanyl Enhanced Mood Alteration and cool down like a clown then ingest an entire bottle of Contortionist Plasticizer and gently as sleeping snail do the work >>> If you bust anything get some aluminum HVAC tape → Nashua 322 multi-purpose HVAC foil tape is specially designed for cheating it in as this is how professionals R&R failed heater coil in older vehicles ○ This tape is strong and will hold any of it ◙ If choose to replace the actual servo look for automotive supply jobbers similar to PBE Jobbers 10390 Shady Trail Ste 106, Dallas, TX 75220 and get prepared to need Preparation Hell in the large size *It is the connector not the servo* _YOU USE ANTIOXIDANT ON THE WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR_
○ Then if you remain alive you can put qualified cartel agent on your CV
When replacing the HVAC what do want to have your heater control on . Floor or defrost. Help
When you first power the new motor on it should be in the defrost position. The 'brain' assumes the cam is in full defrost at power on then runs in the other direction all the way to vent. If the cam isn't in defrost at power on you'll have limited cam travel.
@@sgounaud I guess I got to take it back a part . Switch on defrost it comes out of my vents by my radio . Thanks for getting back to me
Rr