This Old House is considered to be one of the top notch experts and people rely on you for the answers on how to get things done. Please do more by providing the details as to the exact product you are using. I regret having spent the time watching your videos since you failed to provide product detail.
This video would've been more helpful if it included details about products used. Without those details this video was no help at all. Example I would've like to know name of product used to fix damage spots. Thank you
They did say “polyester” filler…. Also if you ask your marine supply store or call a marine finisher… I’m sure the best product will land in your hand.
That's not bondo . Its similiar but it's not . They are using the right term . Some of us call it "putty glaze " spreads easier but it's thinner , good for big areas with small dents or scratches.
I use a pressure washer or even sandblast the outside, then a primer & enamel spray paint. Prepping, washing, sanding the inside, tack cloth etc. Then an tub/tile enamel spray paint, base coat, top coat and maybe a clear coat. Several light coats and final dry time, at least a couple days to cure.....
The paint will last much longer than 10 years, 20 - 30 at least. The problem are cleaning products that begin to dull the finish over time, with micro scratches. So that in 10 years or so the surface is no longer as shiny. Most people don't like the dull look. Also a dull surface get dirtier faster and is harder to clean. This coating can also be polished much like a cars finish is when it gets tired dull and scratched. But, most people don't know this and will not bother. Instead it will be torn out and replaced. We live in a disposable society how sad.
Probably u use it a couple times in a month... I got a new one 7 years ago, my wife and me use it everyday, in summer is used twice, and already start showing signs of deterioration, so, 10 years for me is perfect...
My tub is 101 years old. I will not refinish it yet! Using rog3 cleaner. Still has a shine to it! Once you refinish it, its pretty much junk. Your lucky if you get 10 years!
Not if a guy like me does it - and it can be done again. You could pay for this tub to be reglazed 15 times and still save money over remodeling your bathroom which what replacing a bathtub usually entails.
@@Bout_TreeFiddy Think of it this way Jacob. What a bathtub reglazing tech does is similar to what the guy at the body shop does. From the surface prep, repairs, masking and the spraying of the primer and topcoat. There is no repair kit where you can brush on an epoxy coating to repaint the hood of your car. Of all the things you'll do yourself (which I highly encourage), applying a coating on your bathtub is not one of them. If you do have experience with working in an auto body shop and have sprayed paint, you have the experience to consider this. The key is doing this so it looks like a real tub and does not start peeling off. There are plenty of coating manufactures that make acid etch, epoxy primer and urethane topcoats. If you do not acid wash porcelain, primer it and topcoat it, expect your job to start peeling off within a year. It's really worth calling a professional to do this. If you'd like further info on the procedures to reglaze a tub - from a guy who's been doing it for 35 years, ask me!
I’m surprised they didn’t use a chemical or sandblast the paint off. The random orbital sander looks like it would take all day, plus all of this looks like something you can just do in your backyard. It’s not like they use any special equipment.
I have watched a few videos on redoing this stuff and yes it can be a backyard project. You would think the product used to fill and all would like their name mentioned....and the lady said to her the sander did damage so she did it by hand. She said about 6 hrs of hard work for her project
When the wind blows the insect sits down and leaves find new ground. Your gonna wish you were in a controlled environment. That’s why inside or outdoor spray booth. But of coarse do what ever you like.
@@TheDannytre you have to spend around $3000 to get this kind of material of a bathtub plus installation and delivery . Good luck , a $200 tub from home depot will last you 2-3 years , that's only a price for the tub without installation.
I was really hoping for a porcelain powder coating. There has to be a better way than just more petrol products... What about a big food fired kiln? And ceramic glazes?
Well, you could do whatz called refritting. First, you would have to ship it to i believe Hammond, England. Then you could help them sandblast all the current porcelain off; heat the cast iron shell to red hot; hold it up and gyrate it with these special huge tongs while a couple of guys in spacesuits sprinkle new porcelain powder over the inside. Prepare to spend alot but you will love the final result.
One of the biggest misconceptions is taking the drain out and installing it after - wrong. Putting the new drain in over the new coating will make the coating peel every time. Tubs / sink are reglazed with the drains installed. Most reglazing outfits do not take the drains out of tubs due to the liability of it leaking - they're rookies in my book.
OK ANYONE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG. CAST IRON TUBS ARE HEATED TO A CERTAIN TEMP THEN CRUSHED GLASS POWDER IS APPLIED TO THE TUB, THEN HEATED AGAIN AND DUSTED WITH GLASS POWDER AGAIN. THEN THE "PORCELAIN" IS BAKED ON THE TUB! LASTS 50 TO 100 YEARS!! I DONT THINK THAT CAN BE RECREATED AT HOME? PROFESSIONALS LET ME KNOW, CUZ I HAVE AN OLD CLAWFOOT! 👍
You are not reglazing a tub with a "Porcelain" coating rather a coating manufacturers reformulation of an automotive finish. It's always better to remodel, but if you do not have $20K to remodel your bath and it is in relatively good shape reglazing the tub is a great alternative. Yes you will have to care for it but given that it's a great alternative. You want that 50 to 100 year performance, remodel your bath.
Why is there no place that can restore a cast iron tub properly? They still make cast iron tubs coated with ceramic, why can't I find a place that re-coats and fires a vintage tub with ceramic???? I have a vintage tub, and it would be worth it to me to have it re-done properly and save it rather than replace it!!!
@@Bout_TreeFiddy I found a guy in my state (CT) that said he had a better technique than the typical paints people use (said he did tubs 20 years ago that still look new), but by the time I found him, I decided to just buy a new bathtub...which isn't the way I wanted to go....but I ran out of time and had to do something! Good luck in your search!!!
Beautiful job. But since I don't understand English I didn't know what kind of paint they used in the final process. Could anyone help me please. Thanks.
Great job! Except - What about the rust spots that were visible in the interior of the tub? They just acitoned the tub, gave it an resin for the defects and painted over the below rust????? How many years till the rust comes through???? I wouldn't let these people do my tub. Quick fix, get your money and laugh to the bank. How long will this last???? It'd be better to buy a new tub even if you pay more.
Yeah considering poly filler is porous and holds moisture probably will start to lift in a few years of used daily. Could chip easily aswell. I would think the porcelain would be a much better option
The polyester resin they used I believe to be a direct to metal glaze made by evercoat. Awesome product, it flows very nicely and any porosity would be filled in with paint. Not your typical pores from regular bondo, very small. In the automotive repair industry, this polyester filler is used over bondo for that reason and others. A quart of this stuff will run you about $50-80. It utilises a cream hardener like bondo. Yes, you should get rid of rust entirely, even if you plan on encapsulating the rust area. As with anything, prep is 90% of the job.
This process is called reglazing it commonly done in bank repos and homeowners looking to refresh their rubs for a quick sale. Doesn't need to go to a shop and it doesn't last. It's a process that only costs a few hundred.
When you live in a house built in 1900 and have an original cast iron tub sitting in a bathroom on a third floor and that thing weighs 500 lbs at least with plenty of life left in it refinishing it is the way to go for me. This tub is just now starting to fade which is about right. Had to set tub up on it's side to replace pipes and under the tub the paint was still going strong with no chips or peeling. When I refinish this tub the only thing that will be used to clean it periodically is a Mr.Clean eraser and I promise you this will last me longer than 15 years. Guarentee you that!
@@baltimoresbabyxoxo Everything has its pros and cons. I personally am not a fan of the procedure as I think it's more of a 'cheaty' kind of repair. But I mean if it works, that's fine. I just wouldn't pay a pro that much money. I could get a excellent condition one used and have someone carry it up for that price and have a real glass finish on it. Btw they weigh 500lbs at most. Most average 250lbs ;) trust me I am a 120lbs light weight and have no issue turning it around by myself. Carrying up the stairs... well that needed 2 people!
@@CentralNintendo1 Don’t know about claw foot tubs, but I removed a regular tub once by cutting a hole in the outside wall and putting it on my truck. After keeping it a while and deciding not to use it, I loaded it again and took it to the scrapyard. It weighed just a little over 400 lbs. When I replaced the one in my house, I busted it up with a sledge hammer.
WRONG, HERE IS THE BEST METHOD YOU ARE LOOKING FOR. I sand the worst part with 150 grit and step up to 400-500grit wetsanding. I then use distilled water to completely flush out and rinse thr tub of all the dust and grit. Then I flush and scrub the entire tub with 99% isopropyl to draw out all the remaining moisture. Water loves to immulsify into an alcohol solution that potent and the water will flash off as vapor with the vaporizing alcohol. Then finish with a two-coat ceramic show car wax treatment. That is the best you're gonna get without reglazing in a furnace.
I am disappointed that "This Old House" is recommending this process. And that guy saying "better than the original" is nuts. I too am looking for someone who actually re-heats and re-(Porcelain) enamels old cast iron tubs.
The point is the trade off is not worth it. I have an 90 year old clawfoot which I love. It has dings but I would not refinish it this way. Either re porcelain the tub or keep it as is. This destroys the surface with acid for a topcoat that will only last 10 years
This Old House is considered to be one of the top notch experts and people rely on you for the answers on how to get things done. Please do more by providing the details as to the exact product you are using. I regret having spent the time watching your videos since you failed to provide product detail.
This video would've been more helpful if it included details about products used. Without those details this video was no help at all. Example I would've like to know name of product used to fix damage spots. Thank you
Bondo
I agree. This was of very little benefit other than giving me a basic overview of the process it take to restore one of these old tubs.
I'm not sure what they used. Search for Ekopel 2K - Odorless, DIY Friendly Bathtub Refinishing Kit
They did say “polyester” filler…. Also if you ask your marine supply store or call a marine finisher… I’m sure the best product will land in your hand.
Sure... which acid wash? Which bonding agent?
“We’re going to fill it with a polyester resin”
Ohhhhh so bondo got it
That's not bondo . Its similiar but it's not . They are using the right term . Some of us call it "putty glaze " spreads easier but it's thinner , good for big areas with small dents or scratches.
I use a pressure washer or even sandblast the outside, then a primer & enamel spray paint. Prepping, washing, sanding the inside, tack cloth etc. Then an tub/tile enamel spray paint, base coat, top coat and maybe a clear coat. Several light coats and final dry time, at least a couple days to cure.....
Hoah from an Airborne Scout!
"Much improved and much better than the old enamel", yet only last 10 years. Our tub is over 30 years old and going strong! How is that better?
The paint will last much longer than 10 years, 20 - 30 at least. The problem are cleaning products that begin to dull the finish over time, with micro scratches. So that in 10 years or so the surface is no longer as shiny. Most people don't like the dull look. Also a dull surface get dirtier faster and is harder to clean. This coating can also be polished much like a cars finish is when it gets tired dull and scratched. But, most people don't know this and will not bother. Instead it will be torn out and replaced. We live in a disposable society how sad.
Probably u use it a couple times in a month... I got a new one 7 years ago, my wife and me use it everyday, in summer is used twice, and already start showing signs of deterioration, so, 10 years for me is perfect...
That guy should do voice over.
Dude, I thought it was Mike Rowe at first.
😆😆😆👍
The tall guys voice is top tier. Sports announcer, radio show, voice overs for safety videos maybe?
That’s it? 10 years?
I challenge you to find a better alternative other then replacing the tub
My tub is 101 years old. I will not refinish it yet! Using rog3 cleaner. Still has a shine to it! Once you refinish it, its pretty much junk. Your lucky if you get 10 years!
Rog3 cleaner? Where do I purchase it?
Not if a guy like me does it - and it can be done again. You could pay for this tub to be reglazed 15 times and still save money over remodeling your bathroom which what replacing a bathtub usually entails.
@@billysyms5761 Do you use a similar acrylic/ epoxy paint product?
@@billysyms5761 Do you use a similar acrylic/ epoxy paint product?
@@Bout_TreeFiddy Think of it this way Jacob. What a bathtub reglazing tech does is similar to what the guy at the body shop does. From the surface prep, repairs, masking and the spraying of the primer and topcoat. There is no repair kit where you can brush on an epoxy coating to repaint the hood of your car. Of all the things you'll do yourself (which I highly encourage), applying a coating on your bathtub is not one of them.
If you do have experience with working in an auto body shop and have sprayed paint, you have the experience to consider this. The key is doing this so it looks like a real tub and does not start peeling off. There are plenty of coating manufactures that make acid etch, epoxy primer and urethane topcoats. If you do not acid wash porcelain, primer it and topcoat it, expect your job to start peeling off within a year. It's really worth calling a professional to do this. If you'd like further info on the procedures to reglaze a tub - from a guy who's been doing it for 35 years, ask me!
I’m surprised they didn’t use a chemical or sandblast the paint off. The random orbital sander looks like it would take all day, plus all of this looks like something you can just do in your backyard. It’s not like they use any special equipment.
Chemicals that remove paint are crazy radical and a complete mess. I take these outdoors and wire brush on a 7" angle grinder buzz this old stuff off.
Funny thing is he said "We take it outside and said it" and there it was, albeit connected to a HEPA vac, sanding it inside
I have watched a few videos on redoing this stuff and yes it can be a backyard project. You would think the product used to fill and all would like their name mentioned....and the lady said to her the sander did damage so she did it by hand. She said about 6 hrs of hard work for her project
When the wind blows the insect sits down and leaves find new ground. Your gonna wish you were in a controlled environment. That’s why inside or outdoor spray booth. But of coarse do what ever you like.
He did he said “polyester resin” it’s a product…. Wouldn’t sound to professional if he said BONDO! Diyers are so sensitive and presumptuous …
what is the suggested type of acid and dilution?
Great voice-over voice on that guy.
amazing right, I liked
The acid wash alone made it new😁
Most important part of the job. Makes the tub porous so a good primer will bond to it. Most today do not do it - there tubs peel within 6 months.
Wasn't expecting it to only last 10 years.
Ditto.
You’re better off buying a brand new one!
there's no way I'd go through all that crap with acid and stuff, then wrestle it in the house to just get 10 years out of a tub...
@@TheDannytre you have to spend around $3000 to get this kind of material of a bathtub plus installation and delivery . Good luck , a $200 tub from home depot will last you 2-3 years , that's only a price for the tub without installation.
@@rimidalv7710 I would buy the $3,000 tub and install it myself for my own home that is. Ya I agree on the big box stores that there products suck!
what kind of acid was used? and what paint or top coat?
I was really hoping for a porcelain powder coating. There has to be a better way than just more petrol products... What about a big food fired kiln? And ceramic glazes?
Well, you could do whatz called refritting. First, you would have to ship it to i believe Hammond, England. Then you could help them sandblast all the current porcelain off; heat the cast iron shell to red hot; hold it up and gyrate it with these special huge tongs while a couple of guys in spacesuits sprinkle new porcelain powder over the inside. Prepare to spend alot but you will love the final result.
ok what products did you use and recommend if i were doing this
What did you use
Great explanation of how to polish a turd in the most expensive way possible.
Did they ever pull the drain out? Last I saw, the guy was spraying the primer coat over it. 2:25
I wondered the same thing. I saw they sprayed over it
One of the biggest misconceptions is taking the drain out and installing it after - wrong. Putting the new drain in over the new coating will make the coating peel every time. Tubs / sink are reglazed with the drains installed.
Most reglazing outfits do not take the drains out of tubs due to the liability of it leaking - they're rookies in my book.
@@billysyms5761 you are half right
@@NANA4bacon I am the Guru of Tub Reglazing who also holds a plumbing license. Personally have sprayed hundreds of tubs. I'm 100% right.
@@billysyms5761 I have been reglazing tubs for 19 years it is always better to remove the drain if it all possible
Where did you get the materials to refinish the tub?
10 years? Not for me.
OK ANYONE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG. CAST IRON TUBS ARE HEATED TO A CERTAIN TEMP THEN CRUSHED GLASS POWDER IS APPLIED TO THE TUB, THEN HEATED AGAIN AND DUSTED WITH GLASS POWDER AGAIN. THEN THE "PORCELAIN" IS BAKED ON THE TUB! LASTS 50 TO 100 YEARS!! I DONT THINK THAT CAN BE RECREATED AT HOME? PROFESSIONALS LET ME KNOW, CUZ I HAVE AN OLD CLAWFOOT! 👍
You are not reglazing a tub with a "Porcelain" coating rather a coating manufacturers reformulation of an automotive finish. It's always better to remodel, but if you do not have $20K to remodel your bath and it is in relatively good shape reglazing the tub is a great alternative. Yes you will have to care for it but given that it's a great alternative. You want that 50 to 100 year performance, remodel your bath.
What kind of acid ? What is the name of it so I can buy it ?
What about the hole where the spout is? Mine is so low I can't update mine bc there's nothing that matches the layout...
"very safe and so forth."
so forth...no ghosts or voodoo curses. Stuff like that.
Coated the drain in the bathtub - total rookie move and guaranteed to peel.
Exactly. I have a tub that was redone years ago, and this was the first part to peel....within about 2-3 years.
Thank you very much for this video!
Hey TOH.. can you tell me what the polyester fill is, and the Marine low VOC primer and top coat products?? Wks.
Wow... And wow, that man's voice!
Why is there no place that can restore a cast iron tub properly? They still make cast iron tubs coated with ceramic, why can't I find a place that re-coats and fires a vintage tub with ceramic???? I have a vintage tub, and it would be worth it to me to have it re-done properly and save it rather than replace it!!!
trying to find the same service. Doesn't seem to exist!
@@Bout_TreeFiddy I found a guy in my state (CT) that said he had a better technique than the typical paints people use (said he did tubs 20 years ago that still look new), but by the time I found him, I decided to just buy a new bathtub...which isn't the way I wanted to go....but I ran out of time and had to do something! Good luck in your search!!!
@@EVHFV I decided to install a shower haha
@@Bout_TreeFiddy I'm doing that, too! :-)
Beautiful job. But since I don't understand English I didn't know what kind of paint they used in the final process. Could anyone help me please. Thanks.
Search for Ekopel 2K - Odorless, DIY Friendly Bathtub Refinishing Kit
@@gregf5730 gracias.
10 yes? How long does he original finish last?
What type of acid to use?
Is it ok to use really hot water in the refinished tub?
I’m looking for pink repair!!!
So you've gone from a finish that lasts 50-100 years and replaced it with a finish that lasts 10 years, entertaining.
Can you list the superior alternatives available?
@@zunedog31 enamel
@@zunedog31 as this was the surface that lasts 50-100 years, and can be re-applied after its been blasted.
@@cjhification Ah. Pretty expensive compared to reglazing, correct?
@@cjhification comments like this make a person wonder how many lead paint chips you ate as a child
Great job! Except - What about the rust spots that were visible in the interior of the tub? They just acitoned the tub, gave it an resin for the defects and painted over the below rust????? How many years till the rust comes through???? I wouldn't let these people do my tub. Quick fix, get your money and laugh to the bank. How long will this last???? It'd be better to buy a new tub even if you pay more.
Yeah considering poly filler is porous and holds moisture probably will start to lift in a few years of used daily. Could chip easily aswell. I would think the porcelain would be a much better option
The polyester resin they used I believe to be a direct to metal glaze made by evercoat. Awesome product, it flows very nicely and any porosity would be filled in with paint. Not your typical pores from regular bondo, very small.
In the automotive repair industry, this polyester filler is used over bondo for that reason and others. A quart of this stuff will run you about $50-80. It utilises a cream hardener like bondo.
Yes, you should get rid of rust entirely, even if you plan on encapsulating the rust area. As with anything, prep is 90% of the job.
This process is called reglazing it commonly done in bank repos and homeowners looking to refresh their rubs for a quick sale. Doesn't need to go to a shop and it doesn't last. It's a process that only costs a few hundred.
No, reglazing is when they sandblast it and redo the entire glass glaze in a kiln. This is a homeowner weekend job made to look professional.
When you live in a house built in 1900 and have an original cast iron tub sitting in a bathroom on a third floor and that thing weighs 500 lbs at least with plenty of life left in it refinishing it is the way to go for me. This tub is just now starting to fade which is about right. Had to set tub up on it's side to replace pipes and under the tub the paint was still going strong with no chips or peeling. When I refinish this tub the only thing that will be used to clean it periodically is a Mr.Clean eraser and I promise you this will last me longer than 15 years. Guarentee you that!
@@baltimoresbabyxoxo Everything has its pros and cons. I personally am not a fan of the procedure as I think it's more of a 'cheaty' kind of repair. But I mean if it works, that's fine. I just wouldn't pay a pro that much money. I could get a excellent condition one used and have someone carry it up for that price and have a real glass finish on it. Btw they weigh 500lbs at most. Most average 250lbs ;) trust me I am a 120lbs light weight and have no issue turning it around by myself. Carrying up the stairs... well that needed 2 people!
@@CentralNintendo1 Don’t know about claw foot tubs, but I removed a regular tub once by cutting a hole in the outside wall and putting it on my truck.
After keeping it a while and deciding not to use it, I loaded it again and took it to the scrapyard.
It weighed just a little over 400 lbs.
When I replaced the one in my house, I busted it up with a sledge hammer.
Only 10 years?
Nothing lasts forever pal.
@@Jesse-gv9tf What about communism?
WRONG, HERE IS THE BEST METHOD YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.
I sand the worst part with 150 grit and step up to 400-500grit wetsanding. I then use distilled water to completely flush out and rinse thr tub of all the dust and grit. Then I flush and scrub the entire tub with 99% isopropyl to draw out all the remaining moisture. Water loves to immulsify into an alcohol solution that potent and the water will flash off as vapor with the vaporizing alcohol. Then finish with a two-coat ceramic show car wax treatment. That is the best you're gonna get without reglazing in a furnace.
Do you add paint or just the wax after sanding? I need to repair a couple spots in a basin. Thank you!
I guess if you want a old tube this is what needs to be done. But really the cast iron tubes could last 50- 100 years
The one in my house is 134yo and never been resurfaced...
I am disappointed that "This Old House" is recommending this process. And that guy saying "better than the original" is nuts. I too am looking for someone who actually re-heats and re-(Porcelain) enamels old cast iron tubs.
Ten years. Yeah, nah.
1:25 explosion proof?
So they can use flammable chemicals safely without the spark of a light or exhaust fan possibly causing a fire / explosion.
Explosion proof but the door is left open...
I think he said exposure proof meaning that he can’t be exposed to the chemical stuff they use because the room is ventilated
The bathtub won’t spontaneously combust because of some acid and paint fellas.
The thumbnail 😮🛁
Everyone complaining about it lasting "only 10 years". Get over it. Some of us like having old stuff. If you don't, then don't worry about it.
The point is the trade off is not worth it. I have an 90 year old clawfoot which I love. It has dings but I would not refinish it this way. Either re porcelain the tub or keep it as is. This destroys the surface with acid for a topcoat that will only last 10 years
Anything after 10 years will be old!
That music is super distracting. Why spoil the video with that?
10 years ... get a new acrylic tub for that money!
@bill hill you can buy a cast iron tub for less than $500? Tell me where.
After 10 yrs it peels
Nothing last for ever
Great clip 👍! As a fellow TH-camr, I am on the lookout for fresh ideas! Great Job!
A spar treatment
Ten years is nothing. The original porcelain lasted decades. Better off buying a new cast iron tub.
Who the dickens is refurbishing their bathtub every 10 years?! Pretty sure my bathtub has been in place since the 80s....
Lasts 10 years people use it for 30 or more amazing
Ours is 60 years old and still going!
Chubby.
Rich looks like he always needs a hair cut
Voice envy
crap process, find someone to do a real baked reglazing, this peels and chip, scratches, you might as well buy a modern fiberglas tub