Where the kill cable attaches to the pump there is a button. It's the excess fuel button. Open the throttle lever wide open and push that button in! Then try to start the tractor. Pushing in that button will deliver more fuel to the engine and help purge the air out faster.
Thanks. I read about the excess fuel button, but that would not have helped. The next video will reveal the true culprit, but not before I waste time thinking it is a bleeding problem.
Ha Steve I've always bleed the injectors there is air between the pump and the injectors. Just raise the hood fold the battery tray out have one of the boys crank it while you crack the feed lines at the first injector tell fuel drips out move on to the next inline and so forth. It will start if the injector pump is pumping fuel. The reason why alot of us roll or pull start tractors is to not damage the starter . Your doing well Steve just hang in there and thanks for the video. Enjoy old tractors coming back to life
@@stevewatr Steve your not dumb. Your just not working with something you know we all have learned the hard way and felt dumb many times this internet thing has helped so many people do things that they didn't have the knowledge to do . My hat is off to you Sir
I want to thank you for this video. I had the same problem with the pump being upside down. It was pushing air into the tank, so I did just like you and reversed the pump and voila. Bled the line and she started right after that.
Great video i love watching the trouble shooting process in real time , im having to run down a culprit on my tractor with similar issues. I worked my tillar for about an hour and then all the sudden it acts like its fuel starved and now it wont run. I changed all the filters and drained both tanks and still cant figure out what the problem is.
Well if its a diesel, sometimes you fix one issue (clogged fuel system) and in the process trap air in the system. Some diesels are a lot easier to bleed then others 😉
Oil in pump should be changed every engine oil change. The arrow was pointing to the "missing" banjo bolt when fitted with leak off pipe is also the breather
Is there any special way to put the lift pump in or does it just slide straight in? Also, did you have any issues with the oil leaking from bottom of lift pump after install?
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Where the kill cable attaches to the pump there is a button. It's the excess fuel button. Open the throttle lever wide open and push that button in! Then try to start the tractor. Pushing in that button will deliver more fuel to the engine and help purge the air out faster.
Thanks. I read about the excess fuel button, but that would not have helped. The next video will reveal the true culprit, but not before I waste time thinking it is a bleeding problem.
Ha Steve I've always bleed the injectors there is air between the pump and the injectors. Just raise the hood fold the battery tray out have one of the boys crank it while you crack the feed lines at the first injector tell fuel drips out move on to the next inline and so forth. It will start if the injector pump is pumping fuel. The reason why alot of us roll or pull start tractors is to not damage the starter . Your doing well Steve just hang in there and thanks for the video. Enjoy old tractors coming back to life
Thanks Tom. In the next video you'll see how dumb I felt when I realized how easy it is to get at those injector lines lol.
@@stevewatr Steve your not dumb. Your just not working with something you know we all have learned the hard way and felt dumb many times this internet thing has helped so many people do things that they didn't have the knowledge to do . My hat is off to you Sir
Try with some Brake cleaner in the intake, the engine will go a bit faster and hopefully push the air out of the system.
I want to thank you for this video. I had the same problem with the pump being upside down. It was pushing air into the tank, so I did just like you and reversed the pump and voila. Bled the line and she started right after that.
Glad my video helped.
Great video i love watching the trouble shooting process in real time , im having to run down a culprit on my tractor with similar issues. I worked my tillar for about an hour and then all the sudden it acts like its fuel starved and now it wont run. I changed all the filters and drained both tanks and still cant figure out what the problem is.
Well if its a diesel, sometimes you fix one issue (clogged fuel system) and in the process trap air in the system. Some diesels are a lot easier to bleed then others 😉
Steve Great class on this deseil engine.
little bit of starting fluid and she'd probably fire right up. It's cold and is getting some air. just needs a little help.
It turned out to be a little more involved than that, but I eventually sorted it out.
@@stevewatr Ya, I saw. the rack was sticky also.
Great video
i like this tractor Ford 5000 its my favourite machine good luck
Dude, open the hood, release the wing nut on the battery box, swing box outta the way and access to injectors is right there.
A little late, but thanks......dude.
Oil in pump should be changed every engine oil change. The arrow was pointing to the "missing" banjo bolt when fitted with leak off pipe is also the breather
Interesting, I didn't know it had to be changed as well. Just changed the engine oil. Should have some left for the diesel pump.
What if theres now desiel comeing out of injectors when you crack them
Never tow a Ford tractor with DUAL POWER. You’ll ruin the clutch packs and will end up splitting to rear to repair.
The fuel goes to the pump from the filter
I really enjoyed this video! Good job.
Is there any special way to put the lift pump in or does it just slide straight in? Also, did you have any issues with the oil leaking from bottom of lift pump after install?
Pump cam is under the pump cam so not working will not pump fuel
What did you end up finding
There is a playlist in chronological order.
th-cam.com/play/PLV1RW-p5Beolyq5hAKhnQFonO_7MmqcDc.html
Tienes Serrado el diésel
open the tank
I got it running