Just finished this job. Watched your video several times through. Then took the IPad to the back yard and double checked as I went on a few points. Hands down the best how to video I have seen. And I’m not a youngster. No unnecessary chatter. Great work flow. And everything worked exactly as you said. Great job. Thank you.
@@GoTechTraining Dude thank you so much for this video! I wish you were close by I would bring all my work to you. I am a carpentry and know nothing about mechanics. But I had a repair shop do this exact fix and it will not engage the 4x4 like it should. It takes some turning the wheels left to right for it to finally engage. When it does engage it still makes that grinding noise but not as bad. They also replaced a solenoid under the hood. Could it be a weak vacuum causing the new actuators from engaging properly? I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on what I should try to test to diagnose. I feel like taking this all apart see if maybe it wasn't installed correctly. I for sure am subscribing to your channel.
Wow, that sound you got it to make at 6:10 in the video is what I have been searching the whole internet for. Thanks for helping with the solution! Great Video.
Took my truck to a shop to get a sticky rotor off and have them change the brakes. Brought my bearing/hub (was going to drop it in myself before I ran in to that foul rotor) and asked if they could plunk that in while they had the rotor off. They came back and said there was some big complicated procedure including having to keep the vacuum pressure on the whole time etc. and said they weren't equipped to do it. Watched a number of other videos, and this one..and realized it's dead simple. Will never take my truck back to that shop for sure. Great video! Thanks for the help!
This is the best and most helpful DIY video I've ever watched. I replaced the driver's side in a couple of hours because it was my first time. Did the passenger side in less than 40 minutes. Coming back to it today to refresh myself and get part numbers as I'm prepping to replace my front axle. If you were anywhere near me I'd be bringing my truck to you for everything.
After a nightmare situation with the dealer and warranty company I decided I would do this myself. This is by far the best video I found. I really appreciate the great explanation and inclusion of torque specs. This video made the job quick and easy!
Great video! Very well presented. Something I learned while working in Aviation manufacturing is to only let the Torque Wrench click once. Making it click multiple times actually over torques the bolt/nut. You’d be surprised how much over torque that’s causing. I did that for years while working on Aircraft in the military and never knew of such a thing.
I came across this just learning about 4WD repairs. this is what I need to fix. Off topic of why I was watching 4WD repairs. 4WD engaged but drives like it is having seizures. But I was wondering like. 2 days ago, before this video, why was my wheels grinding but now not... wow, Perfect. Thank you, Sir that is in this video. thank you GoTech.
🙂🙂🙂🙂Good video showing the disassembly and replacement of the hub end... as long as the hub end is the issue. Anything that causes a vacuum leak, from the engine to the hub end can also cause this issue... the lines, the vacuum reservoir, the check valve, can all be culprits and you need to test each for holding vacuum before you start replacing components. The fact that this one he is replacing holds vacuum implies s it may not be the problem. A very common culprit is the one way check valve... like a $10 and 2 minute fix, so be sure you need to replace the hub end before replacing🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Great video. Explained everything. I had a friend thought his CV axle was bad. So he had me look at it. I'm not a Ford guy so I didn't know about these actuators but I knew it wasn't a CV axle problem. This is exactly what was wrong.
Did this with your video and another guys. Liked yours cause you had the torque specs. It did actually end up taking most of my day because my rotor was rusted on. Wouldnt come off with a rubber mallet or prybar. I took some other guys advice and used two bolts screwed in through the caliber clamp pushed up against four quarter wrapped in hockey tape. After tightening both bolts back and forth for fifteen minutes eventually the rotor cracked off. But I didn’t have any spare bolts that were long enough and had to go to the hardware store … so it goes
I'll be doing this tomorrow morning, I've watched numerous videos on how to do this and your process is by far the quickest and easiest as far as I can tell. The mechanics in most of these videos appear to be working on vehicles that have never been outdoors, no rust and everything just comes apart. Not a real world scenario. I couldn't even get the dust cover of the axle end without destroying it. Great video, wish me luck!
Hey David, thanks for watching! Living in Wisconsin, I know how much fun all that rust is to deal with. I hope the job went smoothly for you :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
New Yorker here. I never saw a tie rod come apart automatically like that ! I would stop the job and go buy a lotto ticket right away. If I won I'd just pay someone to finish the job then. : )
2015 f150 lariat with low miles 26,000. I had an intermittent but increasing in occurrence growling noise seeming to come from front wheel. Almost sounded like tire rubbing plastic wheel well but I knew it was iwe. Began late spring cold weather.. went away summer.. came back in cold fall under 60 degree out. I replaced check valve and solenoid bc they are cheap and easy to swap.. didn't work.. rented vacuum pump from auto zone, tested all the lines engine off and while driving.. also pumped up each front iwe at the hub.. everything held vacuum perfectly and vacuum inches stayed solid when driving and while noise was happening (see troubleshoot vids it's easy if you have a pump and attchements). decided to change driver side front iwe and it worked. YOU DONT NEED TO DISCONNECT ABS LINE, just rip out lowest Xmas tree clip to give you slack and you can leave rotor on too.. rented a breaker bar from auto zone to loosen caliper bolts (get full refund when you return tools fyi). Get new IWE on.. pump it up to disengage and them push onto axel.. then release vacuum and twist iwe housing to get it locked in.. then bolt the iwe in. Otherwise this video is good.
My rotor was seized on.. left it on.. didn't want to wack it or use penitrating spray. If yours comes off easy then go right ahead and take the weight off.
@@GoTechTraining Just opened the parts for my sons suv. Decided on doing the delete kit on both sides. Hopefully this will keep it from having issues in the future. 🤞 Many of us r youtube mechanics, so I found your vid extremely helpful when some of us have nvr done this before. Thx for the reply....take care!
Awesome video, I wish I could have diagnosed it myself. Now I get to pay the Ford dealer to do the work. The noise sounded just like that with the loss of vacuum and there was moisture inside the IWE as well. I hope someone trained them to do it correctly. Thanks so much for the video.
Used this video as reference of what I was looking for to properly spline the IWE, hub and CV shaft. Good tip on putting the IWE on the hub first! Thank you.
This is the best video I've seen on this replacement procedure. Like one of the other commenters I seem to be having an issue with what seems to be my driver side not disengaging from 4wd. Getting a dull growl so will try to tackle this myself after watching this. Just waiting on my vaccuum gage to arrive
Your video saved me a fortune!! Was able to do this job in my driveway in under an hour. Thanks for the great instruction! I have a 2012 Lariat Super Crew. This video was perfect!
I am finally glad to see a video so plan and clear. This video shows every step of the process. I had to change these same exact parts. I didn't not what the noise was until I watched your video. Great video! It was truly helpful.
Looked real good Mike. Could only see surface rust on the upper control arm. I was surprised how easy the nuts and bolts came off. Hopefully that replacement cures the intermittent engagement problems and gear grinding.
What an excellent video. Good dog you do so damn good. No unnecessary talk or video time, show all the crucial video and talking points. Damn. Loved this video
Absolutely awesome and thank you so much for making this video. I was able to order the parts before hand and had everything ready. Then I watched this video as I went along making sure I hit all the right steps. I really appreciate it and it seems to have fixed my issue.
Hey James, hard to say why so many leave it out. Service info doesn't directly call it out I guess. Either way, it's a must as part of the long-term fix! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Nice presentation Mike. I had one of these IWE failure driving across Missouri on a hot 98 degree day. It sounded like the front end had fallen out on my 2003 Expedition. Seems like water enters the solenoid end, expanding when hot causing the IWE to engage. Scares the H#$L out of one. Probably not doing the axle teeth or IWE any favors also. FMC recalled the unit, placing a shield over the solenoid , keeping water above the cowling from entering the solenoids. Replaced both axles and IWE's and a couple check valves in the vacuum system. Seems OK , never has happened again.
Hey Robert, yeh the noise it makes is HORRIBLE. Like, pull over right now kinda noise! Glad to hear you got it all fixed up :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I’ve personally had more fail when adding grease. If the engineers wanted that much grease it would of come that way. I install these with what is supplied on it and have had no issues
Excellent Video....now that I have a great idea as to what the problem is, I'll be able to talk with the service department and get the vehicle in for diagnosis and repair. It's really nice to see guys like you take the time to pull a video together like this. I'm betting rather than the short amount of time that it took you, I'm thinking about an all day job for me.. I'll be looking at the other videos on your web site.
@@GoTechTraining FYI... I had the occasional grinding sound in my hubs and took a chance on replacing the vacuum check valve located near the master break cylinder. Since the replacement, I haven't had any additional incidents with this grinding sound.... Roughly a $25 and 5 minute repair. Hope this helps others..
Best video I've ever seen I wish you were close to my area so I could take you my 4 x4 for transit I did a Break job on it and from that moment I have not been able to enjoy my 4 by 4 Van My mechanic did a horrible job putting in those hobb bearings
I have a vacuum gauge in the cab linked between solenoid and IWE's. This way I see if I have a leak and when there is vacuum to the IWE's. Recommend for anyone working this issue. This should be done AFTER you have tested the 4 components, IWe's, lines, valve, and tank. With gauge you are now monitoring the existence or not of vacuum. I have NOT connected a voltage gauge to monitor the solenoid voltage, but believe if you can to do so. A voltage gauge would confirm vacuum findings or point to the solenoid or voltage from upstream.
I am fixed because the components making up the system were checked and triple checked until satisfied. I disagree with the computer program which in 2WD and < 32 F. activates the vacuum 1/2 mile after starting the truck and leaving the house/store. This vacuum activation may be done under torque causing the gears to strip. I would [refer no delay but this is in the computer board.
Oh thank goodness you address the brake caliper bolts. Several I messed with had locktite, and were not torque to yield( I had trouble reassuring a customer that it was fine, so he spent the money on new bolts to even though I didn't think it was really necessary). The Torque to yield bolts are honestly a frickin joke. Just seems like it's to make sure they are one time use only.…...what was wrong with normal bolts that didn't get stretched right to the edge of snapping off.
Just started hearing the same noise you are producing at the 6:00 mark, as of today and my truck will be getting looked at on Feb 15th, I’m hoping it’s the actuators that are bad!
Great video- thank you. After having both IWE on the front end replaced twice, I ended up going with a doorman kit that deletes the IWE. Minor change in fuel consumption (since the axles are always engaged), but hopefully solves the issue for good.
Mine are always spinning and it does enguage 4 x 4 when i switch on but i was under the impresson it would damage my truck to drive with fromt shaft and axels always spinning??
It runs and i just happen to smell gear oil so i changed rear it was fine "ofcourse lol" but the front was shot amd this is when i discovered they always spun is tgis ok
@@FBobby i actually used a brake bleeder 20 bucks worth of refrigerator parts to to engage and disengage,unfortunately the motor crapped out again so I took a total loan out and let em have it lol
Charles Lewis Can't thank you enough for the video and instruction. I replaced the drivers side on my 2015 lariat and its all quiet now. Just wondering if i should do the passenger side. It has 91000K on it. Great job Man!!
I just did both at the same time I only have 52000K on mine. The passenger side hub was in two pieces and the drivers side was so lose it would clack and visibly wiggle when you shook it. I would say these hubs have a max life span of about 3 years.
Hey Johnaclark1, thanks, I always appreciate your comments! I try to keep it washed, and it's always garage kept. I think those 2 things help tremendously. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great video. I need to find one of those vacuum tools so I can see if the iwe is the problem it maybe just a vacuum line. But now I know it's a fairly easy problem to fix. Thanks for putting this out
Excellent topic for a video. As always... I learned something. I never like to 2nd guess or question automotive engineers for the decisions they make, but a vacuum design?
Hey Mark, thanks!!! Glad to hear you've learned something today. I enjoy the questioning of everything, it's in my nature to "ask why"...a vacuum design....WHY!?!??! haha! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Good video I’m having an issue getting the nut fully off the upper ball joint have tried everything loaded the suspension dropping the suspension pry bars have to get cut the nut off don’t really want to do that but my truck is much older than the one in the video and the corrosion and being outside and Winters have taken it’s toll I can see why my shop doesn’t wanna work on it etc.
Bro I just want to tell you that the same sound came from my 2007 Ford F150 lariat just the other day and I had no idea what it was I want to thank you for this video because now I know exactly what to do I just wish my truck didn’t have as much rust as your vehicle being from Michigan salt you know what that’s like inside some pulling it apart I might as well replace a lot of the other parts because everything is rusted out just want to say thank you so much for the video now I know exactly what to do and what not to deal four thumbs up bro ok 👌🏼🔥🤠🔥Camping Russ out
Thanks, this was awesome. Helped me decide to do the IWE on my '11. Only thing I had an issue with was getting the lower arm off. I ended up leaving it attached and was still able to get the fix done. The only thing I think would have helped would have been a mini how to on how to get the ABS sensor cable disattached. That took me an hour+ of puzzling out because I couldn't find anything on the web and pictures of the replacement part were less than helpful. Anyways, thanks much for the video!
Just wanted to add something 2 months later. I think he mentions it in the video, maybe not. Anyways. If you're doing one, do the other. I just found out the hard way, and spent some extended time diagnosing trying to figure out. Off to do the other one.
I have never seen one of your videos before and I have to say I was impressed. I need this job done on my truck, and the job is a little over my non mechanical head, but at least I understand it enough that I can talk to my regular mechanic. Excellent video.
great video man.. I like the explanation of when you slip the gears back together on assembly. its kind of a sweet feeling but hard to explain it well.. great job dude!!! always enjoy the videos!
I need to do this on my truck. The drivers side is going bad. I also have the coolant leak for the o rings. Plus I'm putting on new shocks in all 4 corner so I can tackle them all at once.
i have same problem with mine. both axles are locked and i have vacuum to both lines . so being a 2005 f150 im changing everything a little pricey but worth it .beats paying garage labor nice job showing us . what iwe to buy oem or are they all the same
Mine isn’t really a clicking sound. It has more of a knobby tire sound. I hear it more when I’m coming to a stop between 0-20 mph. I’ve noticed when it’s colder out the noise starts sooner when breaking from like 0-40 mph. You can feel it in the whole drive line. Even feels like you are riding on knobby tires. When it’s 60° and above it hardly does it at all. Do you think this could still be related to the IWE’s? The truck is a 2016 F150 with 42k on it. Also has the 4A mode.
In all fairness, it's only a four year old truck. Vehicles don't suddenly just turn into rust once they arrive in Wisconsin. I would be suspicious about New York cars doing that, though. Ever look at a car in a South Main Auto video? The crust on the cars Eric works on makes most Sconnie rot look like child's play.
Hahah Shaun, Eric does seem to see the worst of the worst! Garage keeping vehicles around here really seems to help too. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
My 2004 F-150 falls in and out of 4 Wheel Low while driving with the manual gear shifter in 2 Wheel High. It seems to be worse going up hill or down hill. So I decided to check the fluid in the transfer case, and it was bone dry! I filled it up, and I thought it got better, but I was wrong. The Transfer case has a TINY leak from it somewhere. Like a week of it sitting the spot where it leaked was like the size of a silver dollar. Nothing major. While driving it loses power when taking off from a stop, and then you can hear a clunking noise like the 4WD is trying to engage. The light on the dash will show 4WD Low, but then it goes off and it drive fine again for a bit, then the light comes back on and the problems start again. And like I said, for some reason it seems worse going up or down hill. I was stopped on a hill at a stop light today and the 4WD Low light was strobing on my cluster. Just going on and off non stop. Any clue what it might be? I was thinking Solenoid or Actuators, but none of the symptoms scream either of those.
@@GoTechTraining It sure did! Till I saw your video I was asuming this was one I would not even attempt myself. I have watched the video 3 times, the parts are on order.
Another IWE bites the dust! GM didn't do much better with the 10 miles of vacuum lines, the vacuum servo & vacuum switch, plus the shift fork and failure prone internals on the S-series trucks, or the solenoid and fork on the full size. That's the one thing that hasn't broken yet on my Silverado, lol. It got a new rear diff at 97k, after finding the tips of my side gears stuck to the magnet, which lead to finding the sloppy carrier. What a mess! 21st Century vehicles will keep us busy for a while (until they all rust away to nothing). 😁 Nice paint job on that truck, Mike - she's pretty sharp looking. I spy a J/D X-series in the background there, too - great mowers. I went with a z-turn recently - got too many obstacles to mow around here. I can mow at 10mph, lol - gets it done quick, but beats my kidneys to a pulp. 😂 Anyway, great vid man - have a great weekend! 👍🍻
Hey Smitty, ugh the ol' shift forks and encoder motors on the GMs...failures are good though I guess. Keeps us employed haha! Thanks, it's a special edition sport package that Ford does. Good eye, it's an X350, 2016. I mow 3 acres...A zero-turn is in my future too, i'd love a Ferris, with their suspension. We'll see. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining - Ahh, I'd LOVE to have a Ferris! My lawn beats the crap out of me, lol. Suspension would be NIIIICE!! I've got 2.5, so almost the same as yours. The z-turn definitely saves some time, though. About the only downsides are the cost, and they get stuck alot easier than a lawn tractor. If your lawn is high and dry (and flat) this won't be an issue. Anyway, yeah, we'll have plenty of work going forward from the looks of things today! :) Take care, Mike - we'll see you on the next one. 👍🍻
Great video. I always have the most problems disconnecting the wires to do a job. To remove the wheel speed sensor from its clip in the engine compartment, I pull back the red tab, but I'm clueless as to the next step. Do I insert a small screwdriver down the side? Do I lift or press? I don't want to break the connector (lord knows I've done a few of those). When the video skips a little step like that, (note that the speed sensor wire is already disconnected at the beginning of the video). Is there a conspiracy NOT to show us weekend mechanics how to disconnect wires?
I am not a mechanic. Will not try this on my own. But at least it sounds like what’s going on with my 2015 f150. Is there any advice you could give on where I could take my truck to have this work completed? Les Schwab? Dealer😮……????? Thanks. And great video.
Is this the same procedure for a 2020 F150? I have replaced the check valve and the solenoid with no luck. Seems like this is the culprit. Interestingly though, I bypassed my solenoid valve as a troubleshooting method and the grinding doesn't happen. Would that be an indication that it is not this part? Also, when the solenoid was not bypassed and the noise happened, I would reverse for a couple vehicle lengths the noise would not come back until the next day. Any ideas? Great video by the way. Love that you have all the socket sizes, torque specs and type of grease in it! Good job!
🙂🙂🙂🙂 Of course it is possible to get a defective part, but it may be that the part wasn't the issue to begin with. Anything that causes a loss of vacuum along the way from the engine to the hub can cause this issue. Alot of people jump to replacing the hub end. The vacuum lines can be cracked causing loss of vacuum (one particularly hard to diagnose place for vacuum line failure is where the line is held by a clip between the hub and engine bay, it will hold vacuum driving straight but the line shifts just enough when turning to lose vacuum when turning the wheel), the one way check valve can be bad (common fail) or the vacuum reservoir can have a leak. Important to test for holding vacuum all along the way... the one way check valve is like $10 and 2 minutes to replace and commonly goes bad... would be the first component I looked at before replacing hub end, hope this helps🙂🙂🙂🙂
Amazing video. Thanks much...gonna do it myself with the video's help. Any chance you could advise the torque down settings for putting Ball joint nut, the tie rod nut, and the hub nut please ?
Hello, had a question, im getting a vibration in the left front when truck is cold, for about a mile or 2, it is intermittent, like if I were spinning a loose bearing and it chattered can that be the iwe going bad, also im getting a little noise when in 4wd, thanks Joe.......Also awesome video......
Hey Emmett, like I said, I had to put a steering rack in it about a year ago, that's why the tie rod end popped so nicely :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
GoTech I guess I meant to say that I was surprised my ball joint and tie rod end popped right off. When I did the left side I thought there was no way I could be that lucky on the right side, but amazingly enough it did the same thing! It was a straight forward job. Plenty of time for a few beers when done.
My 2020 lariat just hit 65,000 miles and I've been encountering this noise and issue. Driving me nuts checking the vacumn. And components. Replaced, check valve, solenoid, and lines because the IWEs would take and hold vacumn. But then driving down the road I would still hear this noise on tje drivers side.
Many times the side you are hearing the noise is the opposite side of the issue. I suppose that trucks just out of warranty huh? You could try switching it into 4wd and see if the noise is gone. ~Mike
Hey Gabe, Yeah these systems can be frustrating when they have small leaks. I have ran into that issue as well, most of the time one of the IWEs is the issue. They must leak while under the load of driving. ~Ryan
@GoTech Ryan thanks so much. It was extremely frustrating jacking the truck up, pumping it up and visually seeing it hold and work correctly with a vacumn gun and with the vacumn of the vehicle. But then make noise while driving. I bought one to replace on the driver's side , should be here Friday. With my 2020 only having 65,000 miles these aren't covered under warranty? Seems to be a very very common issue with these f 150s . I didn't know that.
@GoTech I believe 60,000 was the cutoff for the warranty. I don't believe these are considered part of the "powertrain" very frustrating not being able to visually see it mess up. I hope that the IWE I suspect is the culprit is the one messing up and it's not the other side. Do u recommend just replacing both?
My 2015 with 62,000 miles is making that grinding noise but it only does it in the first mile or so and it only lasts a second or so under light throttle. If I step on the gas it goes away which makes me think it is vacuum related. I replaced the check valve and solenoid and there was plenty of vacuum there so I’m thinking the iwe units themselves but need to get underneath and just see if anything looks obvious. If the truck fit in my garage I’d consider tackling this but don’t think I want to try this in the street if anything would go wrong. At least it only looks like a couple of hours to do both if I have to take it in. Thanks
Have you ever seen one of the actuator hub to be damaged and cause a wheel to lock up? Passenger side wheel locked up. Not the caliper…mechanically binding in the hub somehow. Slipping and will skid the tire…pops if I give it gas and it binds up and pops really loud. Intermittently it will release and drive fine for about 20 yards, then lock up again.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Just finished this job. Watched your video several times through. Then took the IPad to the back yard and double checked as I went on a few points. Hands down the best how to video I have seen. And I’m not a youngster. No unnecessary chatter. Great work flow. And everything worked exactly as you said. Great job. Thank you.
Hey NG Ware, that is amazing to hear! Thank you so so much!
Mike Becker, Senior Insturctor
@@GoTechTraining Dude thank you so much for this video! I wish you were close by I would bring all my work to you. I am a carpentry and know nothing about mechanics. But I had a repair shop do this exact fix and it will not engage the 4x4 like it should. It takes some turning the wheels left to right for it to finally engage. When it does engage it still makes that grinding noise but not as bad. They also replaced a solenoid under the hood. Could it be a weak vacuum causing the new actuators from engaging properly?
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on what I should try to test to diagnose.
I feel like taking this all apart see if maybe it wasn't installed correctly.
I for sure am subscribing to your channel.
I agree great video of how 2
This is how TH-cam is supposed to work. I'll have to wait a while for my 2020 F-150 to fail but I'll be ready.
very self-explanatorial I heard every word thumbs up I will be watching your Channel thank you
Wow, that sound you got it to make at 6:10 in the video is what I have been searching the whole internet for. Thanks for helping with the solution! Great Video.
Me too. My son's truck just started doing the same thing and I got really worried since I've never dealt with 4x4's before
Dude you just saved my day I was ready to give up searching and wait for whatever failure to tell me the problem
Took my truck to a shop to get a sticky rotor off and have them change the brakes. Brought my bearing/hub (was going to drop it in myself before I ran in to that foul rotor) and asked if they could plunk that in while they had the rotor off. They came back and said there was some big complicated procedure including having to keep the vacuum pressure on the whole time etc. and said they weren't equipped to do it. Watched a number of other videos, and this one..and realized it's dead simple. Will never take my truck back to that shop for sure. Great video! Thanks for the help!
You are supposed to apply vacuum when you slide the cv axle out and back in. If you don't you can damage the IWE.
This is the best and most helpful DIY video I've ever watched. I replaced the driver's side in a couple of hours because it was my first time. Did the passenger side in less than 40 minutes. Coming back to it today to refresh myself and get part numbers as I'm prepping to replace my front axle.
If you were anywhere near me I'd be bringing my truck to you for everything.
After a nightmare situation with the dealer and warranty company I decided I would do this myself. This is by far the best video I found. I really appreciate the great explanation and inclusion of torque specs. This video made the job quick and easy!
Hey Cody, thanks for watching! Glad the video helped you get the job done.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Did your truck shake and you can feel bumps in the road.
Anymore now a days, they just guess and guess wasting your time. I hate dealing with the dealerships sometimes
Great video! Very well presented.
Something I learned while working in Aviation manufacturing is to only let the Torque Wrench click once. Making it click multiple times actually over torques the bolt/nut. You’d be surprised how much over torque that’s causing. I did that for years while working on Aircraft in the military and never knew of such a thing.
I need to pull my CV shaft and this was the best video I could find on how to get it free of the steering knuckle. Good instructions.
I came across this just learning about 4WD repairs. this is what I need to fix. Off topic of why I was watching 4WD repairs. 4WD engaged but drives like it is having seizures. But I was wondering like. 2 days ago, before this video, why was my wheels grinding but now not... wow, Perfect. Thank you, Sir that is in this video. thank you GoTech.
Hey J. Kilem, thanks for watching! Glad to hear the video helped
🙂🙂🙂🙂Good video showing the disassembly and replacement of the hub end... as long as the hub end is the issue. Anything that causes a vacuum leak, from the engine to the hub end can also cause this issue... the lines, the vacuum reservoir, the check valve, can all be culprits and you need to test each for holding vacuum before you start replacing components. The fact that this one he is replacing holds vacuum implies s it may not be the problem. A very common culprit is the one way check valve... like a $10 and 2 minute fix, so be sure you need to replace the hub end before replacing🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Thank you! This helped me replace my actuator, new hub, new caliper and brake pads.
Thank you.....I am not a mechanic but now have a better understanding when I take my 2014 4x4 F150 for four wheel drive issues.
Hi Vickie, thanks for watching! Glad the video was educational for you! Good luck getting the repair done.
~Mike
Great video. Explained everything. I had a friend thought his CV axle was bad. So he had me look at it. I'm not a Ford guy so I didn't know about these actuators but I knew it wasn't a CV axle problem. This is exactly what was wrong.
Did this with your video and another guys. Liked yours cause you had the torque specs. It did actually end up taking most of my day because my rotor was rusted on. Wouldnt come off with a rubber mallet or prybar. I took some other guys advice and used two bolts screwed in through the caliber clamp pushed up against four quarter wrapped in hockey tape. After tightening both bolts back and forth for fifteen minutes eventually the rotor cracked off. But I didn’t have any spare bolts that were long enough and had to go to the hardware store … so it goes
I'll be doing this tomorrow morning, I've watched numerous videos on how to do this and your process is by far the quickest and easiest as far as I can tell.
The mechanics in most of these videos appear to be working on vehicles that have never been outdoors, no rust and everything just comes apart.
Not a real world scenario.
I couldn't even get the dust cover of the axle end without destroying it.
Great video, wish me luck!
Hey David, thanks for watching! Living in Wisconsin, I know how much fun all that rust is to deal with. I hope the job went smoothly for you :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
New Yorker here. I never saw a tie rod come apart automatically like that ! I would stop the job and go buy a lotto ticket right away. If I won I'd just pay someone to finish the job then. : )
Hey Rick, Wisconsin here, I feel your pain! I should have bought a lotto ticket that day...oh well. Maybe next time :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I'm from MA. How about those wheel hubs that are suppose to only take an hour to replace?
Lol
2015 f150 lariat with low miles 26,000. I had an intermittent but increasing in occurrence growling noise seeming to come from front wheel. Almost sounded like tire rubbing plastic wheel well but I knew it was iwe. Began late spring cold weather.. went away summer.. came back in cold fall under 60 degree out. I replaced check valve and solenoid bc they are cheap and easy to swap.. didn't work.. rented vacuum pump from auto zone, tested all the lines engine off and while driving.. also pumped up each front iwe at the hub.. everything held vacuum perfectly and vacuum inches stayed solid when driving and while noise was happening (see troubleshoot vids it's easy if you have a pump and attchements). decided to change driver side front iwe and it worked. YOU DONT NEED TO DISCONNECT ABS LINE, just rip out lowest Xmas tree clip to give you slack and you can leave rotor on too.. rented a breaker bar from auto zone to loosen caliper bolts (get full refund when you return tools fyi). Get new IWE on.. pump it up to disengage and them push onto axel.. then release vacuum and twist iwe housing to get it locked in.. then bolt the iwe in. Otherwise this video is good.
My rotor was seized on.. left it on.. didn't want to wack it or use penitrating spray. If yours comes off easy then go right ahead and take the weight off.
Damn what a vid, not only performed the job, but explained everything in layman's terms!
Hey Concrete, thanks a ton! Hope you found it helpful!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining Just opened the parts for my sons suv. Decided on doing the delete kit on both sides. Hopefully this will keep it from having issues in the future. 🤞 Many of us r youtube mechanics, so I found your vid extremely helpful when some of us have nvr done this before.
Thx for the reply....take care!
Perfect. Thank you. I also noticed a change in my avg fuel economy when I started getting the intermittent grinding sound.
Hey Rob, thanks for watching! I supposed the partially engaged hub could create some rolling resistance.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Awesome video, I wish I could have diagnosed it myself. Now I get to pay the Ford dealer to do the work. The noise sounded just like that with the loss of vacuum and there was moisture inside the IWE as well. I hope someone trained them to do it correctly. Thanks so much for the video.
Rick how are you doing? How much did the dealer charge you?
Excellent! My dad has a 2014 FX 4 with 198K miles and was making noise, intermittent , Thank you very much
Used this video as reference of what I was looking for to properly spline the IWE, hub and CV shaft. Good tip on putting the IWE on the hub first!
Thank you.
Awesome! Glad the video helped!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Thank you. This is the best IWE replacement I’ve seen - and I think I’ve seen them all at this point 😂
Amazing Video Friend, I searched for wheel end disconnect, came across your video nice explanation.
This is the best video I've seen on this replacement procedure. Like one of the other commenters I seem to be having an issue with what seems to be my driver side not disengaging from 4wd. Getting a dull growl so will try to tackle this myself after watching this. Just waiting on my vaccuum gage to arrive
Your video saved me a fortune!! Was able to do this job in my driveway in under an hour. Thanks for the great instruction! I have a 2012 Lariat Super Crew. This video was perfect!
I am finally glad to see a video so plan and clear. This video shows every step of the process. I had to change these same exact parts. I didn't not what the noise was until I watched your video. Great video! It was truly helpful.
You are a life saver I just bought a truck and it start making this noise after I paid for it😢 now I know the problem is not that expensive
Been trying to find a solution for that noise for 6 months and you nailed it!!! thank you so much
Hi Charlie,
Your welcome! Glad it helped you out!
Thanks for watching and supporting our channel!
~Ryan Wilsing
Looked real good Mike. Could only see surface rust on the upper control arm. I was surprised how easy the nuts and bolts came off.
Hopefully that replacement cures the intermittent engagement problems and gear grinding.
Hey Mike, I try to keep my truck washed. Especially in the winter months! So far so good :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
What an excellent video. Good dog you do so damn good. No unnecessary talk or video time, show all the crucial video and talking points. Damn. Loved this video
Thanks a ton Stevie!
~Mike
Absolutely awesome and thank you so much for making this video. I was able to order the parts before hand and had everything ready. Then I watched this video as I went along making sure I hit all the right steps. I really appreciate it and it seems to have fixed my issue.
Finally, someone shows how to grease it, and what to grease it with! Why is that step left out so often on YT videos??
Hey James, hard to say why so many leave it out. Service info doesn't directly call it out I guess. Either way, it's a must as part of the long-term fix!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Very helpful video, very good step by step tutorial, thanks for providing the info regarding the grease use on this parts.
Hey Juan,
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
Nice presentation Mike. I had one of these IWE failure driving across Missouri on a hot 98 degree day. It sounded like the front end had fallen out on my 2003 Expedition. Seems like water enters the solenoid end, expanding when hot causing the IWE to engage. Scares the H#$L out of one. Probably not doing the axle teeth or IWE any favors also. FMC recalled the unit, placing a shield over the solenoid , keeping water above the cowling from entering the solenoids. Replaced both axles and IWE's and a couple check valves in the vacuum system. Seems OK , never has happened again.
Hey Robert, yeh the noise it makes is HORRIBLE. Like, pull over right now kinda noise! Glad to hear you got it all fixed up :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining buenas tardes amigo tengo un problema con una lobo 2004 no entra la 4x4
I’ve personally had more fail when adding grease. If the engineers wanted that much grease it would of come that way. I install these with what is supplied on it and have had no issues
Ditto.
Excellent Video....now that I have a great idea as to what the problem is, I'll be able to talk with the service department and get the vehicle in for diagnosis and repair. It's really nice to see guys like you take the time to pull a video together like this. I'm betting rather than the short amount of time that it took you, I'm thinking about an all day job for me.. I'll be looking at the other videos on your web site.
Hello,
Thanks for the kind words and supporting our channel!
~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining FYI... I had the occasional grinding sound in my hubs and took a chance on replacing the vacuum check valve located near the master break cylinder. Since the replacement, I haven't had any additional incidents with this grinding sound.... Roughly a $25 and 5 minute repair. Hope this helps others..
@@YT2007XYZ had a weird sound with mine also, it was just the valve also.
Best mechanic I have ever seen.
Best video I've ever seen I wish you were close to my area so I could take you my 4 x4 for transit I did a Break job on it and from that moment I have not been able to enjoy my 4 by 4 Van My mechanic did a horrible job putting in those hobb bearings
Hey J Rouge, thanks for watching! If you were closer we could definitely get you all fixed up!
~Mike
I have a vacuum gauge in the cab linked between solenoid and IWE's. This way I see if I have a leak and when there is vacuum to the IWE's. Recommend for anyone working this issue. This should be done AFTER you have tested the 4 components, IWe's, lines, valve, and tank. With gauge you are now monitoring the existence or not of vacuum. I have NOT connected a voltage gauge to monitor the solenoid voltage, but believe if you can to do so. A voltage gauge would confirm vacuum findings or point to the solenoid or voltage from upstream.
Hey Mike, thanks for watching! Sounds like you're chasing a tough one here!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I am fixed because the components making up the system were checked and triple checked until satisfied. I disagree with the computer program which in 2WD and < 32 F. activates the vacuum 1/2 mile after starting the truck and leaving the house/store. This vacuum activation may be done under torque causing the gears to strip. I would [refer no delay but this is in the computer board.
Good idea! Can you make us a video explaining and show this setup and post a link to the video in the comment thread? Thanks so much!
Oh thank goodness you address the brake caliper bolts. Several I messed with had locktite, and were not torque to yield( I had trouble reassuring a customer that it was fine, so he spent the money on new bolts to even though I didn't think it was really necessary). The Torque to yield bolts are honestly a frickin joke.
Just seems like it's to make sure they are one time use only.…...what was wrong with normal bolts that didn't get stretched right to the edge of snapping off.
Pretty straightforward job Mike,thanks for sharing it with us! 👍
Hey Nick, yeh these aren't too bad to do. Thanks for watching :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great video, trying to get my 2013 F-150 fixed and this made it so easy!
Excellent video. Explaination. Video angle-view. Perfect.
Woah thanks a ton Bradley, glad to hear you've enjoyed the vid!
~Mike
Just started hearing the same noise you are producing at the 6:00 mark, as of today and my truck will be getting looked at on Feb 15th, I’m hoping it’s the actuators that are bad!
Great video! I will be doing this, this weekend!
Great video- thank you. After having both IWE on the front end replaced twice, I ended up going with a doorman kit that deletes the IWE. Minor change in fuel consumption (since the axles are always engaged), but hopefully solves the issue for good.
Mine are always spinning and it does enguage 4 x 4 when i switch on but i was under the impresson it would damage my truck to drive with fromt shaft and axels always spinning??
It runs and i just happen to smell gear oil so i changed rear it was fine "ofcourse lol" but the front was shot amd this is when i discovered they always spun is tgis ok
@@Dani-ELmaninnoboxes i wouldnt hesitate to do this. as long as the transfer case and front shaft aren't engaged you won't do any damage to the truck.
@@FBobby i actually used a brake bleeder 20 bucks worth of refrigerator parts to to engage and disengage,unfortunately the motor crapped out again so I took a total loan out and let em have it lol
But I appreciate u getting back
Charles Lewis
Can't thank you enough for the video and instruction. I replaced the drivers side on my 2015 lariat and its all quiet now. Just wondering if i should do the passenger side. It has 91000K on it. Great job Man!!
I just did both at the same time I only have 52000K on mine. The passenger side hub was in two pieces and the drivers side was so lose it would clack and visibly wiggle when you shook it. I would say these hubs have a max life span of about 3 years.
Bro... you are great on camera. Thanks!
Thanks man!
~Mike
Step by step, quick and easy, thank you ...🤘
Thanks for watching Vadim!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
We always appreciate your videos! Very little rust under that truck for your location...
Hey Johnaclark1, thanks, I always appreciate your comments! I try to keep it washed, and it's always garage kept. I think those 2 things help tremendously.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great video. I need to find one of those vacuum tools so I can see if the iwe is the problem it maybe just a vacuum line. But now I know it's a fairly easy problem to fix. Thanks for putting this out
Excellent topic for a video. As always... I learned something. I never like to 2nd guess or question automotive engineers for the decisions they make, but a vacuum design?
Hey Mark, thanks!!! Glad to hear you've learned something today. I enjoy the questioning of everything, it's in my nature to "ask why"...a vacuum design....WHY!?!??! haha!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I didn't have to replace mine until 198k miles, so I was happy about that.
Great video, I have to change one of them, this video helped me a lot, thanks for sharing
AWESOME Vid, with the whole procedure done very well, including torques. THX!!!
Thanks for the video. Saved me lots of money and made it a fun job for me. Wish I had a lift though!!
Good video I’m having an issue getting the nut fully off the upper ball joint have tried everything loaded the suspension dropping the suspension pry bars have to get cut the nut off don’t really want to do that but my truck is much older than the one in the video and the corrosion and being outside and Winters have taken it’s toll I can see why my shop doesn’t wanna work on it etc.
Thanks for sharing! Your video has a ton of information and good production quality 👍
Bro I just want to tell you that the same sound came from my 2007 Ford F150 lariat just the other day and I had no idea what it was I want to thank you for this video because now I know exactly what to do I just wish my truck didn’t have as much rust as your vehicle being from Michigan salt you know what that’s like inside some pulling it apart I might as well replace a lot of the other parts because everything is rusted out just want to say thank you so much for the video now I know exactly what to do and what not to deal four thumbs up bro ok 👌🏼🔥🤠🔥Camping Russ out
Hey Camping Rus, thanks for reaching out man! That's awesome, hope you're able to get it all fixed up without issue!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Thanks, this was awesome. Helped me decide to do the IWE on my '11. Only thing I had an issue with was getting the lower arm off. I ended up leaving it attached and was still able to get the fix done. The only thing I think would have helped would have been a mini how to on how to get the ABS sensor cable disattached. That took me an hour+ of puzzling out because I couldn't find anything on the web and pictures of the replacement part were less than helpful.
Anyways, thanks much for the video!
Just wanted to add something 2 months later. I think he mentions it in the video, maybe not. Anyways. If you're doing one, do the other. I just found out the hard way, and spent some extended time diagnosing trying to figure out. Off to do the other one.
very informative and helped me to know how to do this job.
Thank you so much for this video! It was a great step by step video that made the process really simple
Hey Grant, thanks for watching!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Red loctite are you crazy lol good luck getting it back apart... Blue is the correct stuff 243 loctite
I have never seen one of your videos before and I have to say I was impressed. I need this job done on my truck, and the job is a little over my non mechanical head, but at least I understand it enough that I can talk to my regular mechanic. Excellent video.
I long for the days when the front had manual locking hubs like I had on my Broncos.
My 2019 F150 with 30,000 miles is doing the clacky sound. Grrrrrrrrrrrr
i think i will just take off the vacuum lines and run it full time...thank you for the tip!!
great video man.. I like the explanation of when you slip the gears back together on assembly. its kind of a sweet feeling but hard to explain it well.. great job dude!!! always enjoy the videos!
Great job of showing how to do this.
Thanks!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Wow. So far 1.1k views and zero thumbs down! Impressive! Nice job.
Hey Robert, they will come. The thumbs down haters always come. Thanks for watching and not being one of them :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great Video! Good content and quality shooting.
Thanks!!!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Thanks for teaching us Mike🙏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👋👋👋👋✌
Thanks for watching Salvador! :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
That is one clean truck , good vid. Thanks
I need to do this on my truck. The drivers side is going bad. I also have the coolant leak for the o rings. Plus I'm putting on new shocks in all 4 corner so I can tackle them all at once.
i have same problem with mine. both axles are locked and i have vacuum to both lines . so being a 2005 f150 im changing everything a little pricey but worth it .beats paying garage labor nice job showing us . what iwe to buy oem or are they all the same
Mine isn’t really a clicking sound. It has more of a knobby tire sound. I hear it more when I’m coming to a stop between 0-20 mph. I’ve noticed when it’s colder out the noise starts sooner when breaking from like 0-40 mph. You can feel it in the whole drive line. Even feels like you are riding on knobby tires. When it’s 60° and above it hardly does it at all. Do you think this could still be related to the IWE’s? The truck is a 2016 F150 with 42k on it. Also has the 4A mode.
Did you figure out your issue? I’m feeling the same.
Great Video. I have a 2006 and the line from the manifold to the Solenoid has collasped. What size is the line?
thanks mike, looks like everything came apart way too easy for a cold weather truck lol
Only 60k on a 2016, plus I do regularly wash it in the winter, so that helps :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
In all fairness, it's only a four year old truck. Vehicles don't suddenly just turn into rust once they arrive in Wisconsin. I would be suspicious about New York cars doing that, though. Ever look at a car in a South Main Auto video? The crust on the cars Eric works on makes most Sconnie rot look like child's play.
Hahah Shaun, Eric does seem to see the worst of the worst! Garage keeping vehicles around here really seems to help too.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
My 2004 F-150 falls in and out of 4 Wheel Low while driving with the manual gear shifter in 2 Wheel High. It seems to be worse going up hill or down hill. So I decided to check the fluid in the transfer case, and it was bone dry! I filled it up, and I thought it got better, but I was wrong. The Transfer case has a TINY leak from it somewhere. Like a week of it sitting the spot where it leaked was like the size of a silver dollar. Nothing major. While driving it loses power when taking off from a stop, and then you can hear a clunking noise like the 4WD is trying to engage. The light on the dash will show 4WD Low, but then it goes off and it drive fine again for a bit, then the light comes back on and the problems start again. And like I said, for some reason it seems worse going up or down hill. I was stopped on a hill at a stop light today and the 4WD Low light was strobing on my cluster. Just going on and off non stop. Any clue what it might be? I was thinking Solenoid or Actuators, but none of the symptoms scream either of those.
Nice job. Thank you for this. Great work
And I was going to take it in! Thank you so very very much!
Hey Mick, hope this gave you the confidence to do it yourself!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining It sure did! Till I saw your video I was asuming this was one I would not even attempt myself. I have watched the video 3 times, the parts are on order.
Great explanation, do you have the replacement part number and what years are the same???
Another IWE bites the dust! GM didn't do much better with the 10 miles of vacuum lines, the vacuum servo & vacuum switch, plus the shift fork and failure prone internals on the S-series trucks, or the solenoid and fork on the full size. That's the one thing that hasn't broken yet on my Silverado, lol. It got a new rear diff at 97k, after finding the tips of my side gears stuck to the magnet, which lead to finding the sloppy carrier. What a mess! 21st Century vehicles will keep us busy for a while (until they all rust away to nothing). 😁
Nice paint job on that truck, Mike - she's pretty sharp looking. I spy a J/D X-series in the background there, too - great mowers. I went with a z-turn recently - got too many obstacles to mow around here. I can mow at 10mph, lol - gets it done quick, but beats my kidneys to a pulp. 😂 Anyway, great vid man - have a great weekend! 👍🍻
Hey Smitty, ugh the ol' shift forks and encoder motors on the GMs...failures are good though I guess. Keeps us employed haha! Thanks, it's a special edition sport package that Ford does. Good eye, it's an X350, 2016. I mow 3 acres...A zero-turn is in my future too, i'd love a Ferris, with their suspension. We'll see.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining - Ahh, I'd LOVE to have a Ferris! My lawn beats the crap out of me, lol. Suspension would be NIIIICE!! I've got 2.5, so almost the same as yours. The z-turn definitely saves some time, though. About the only downsides are the cost, and they get stuck alot easier than a lawn tractor. If your lawn is high and dry (and flat) this won't be an issue. Anyway, yeah, we'll have plenty of work going forward from the looks of things today! :) Take care, Mike - we'll see you on the next one. 👍🍻
Excellent video!
Thanks Dafarm!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great video. I always have the most problems disconnecting the wires to do a job. To remove the wheel speed sensor from its clip in the engine compartment, I pull back the red tab, but I'm clueless as to the next step. Do I insert a small screwdriver down the side? Do I lift or press? I don't want to break the connector (lord knows I've done a few of those). When the video skips a little step like that, (note that the speed sensor wire is already disconnected at the beginning of the video). Is there a conspiracy NOT to show us weekend mechanics how to disconnect wires?
No need to pull the caliper and rotor. Just did two of these for a customer. 15 minutes a side.
Hey Nathan, thanks for watching. Good to know, i'll keep that in mind.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
So right!
Thanks for the help, nicely done.
I am not a mechanic. Will not try this on my own. But at least it sounds like what’s going on with my 2015 f150. Is there any advice you could give on where I could take my truck to have this work completed? Les Schwab? Dealer😮……????? Thanks. And great video.
Great video!👍
Thank you! 👍
My rattles when I hit the brakes it stopped was a loose caliper bolt
Is this the same procedure for a 2020 F150? I have replaced the check valve and the solenoid with no luck. Seems like this is the culprit. Interestingly though, I bypassed my solenoid valve as a troubleshooting method and the grinding doesn't happen. Would that be an indication that it is not this part? Also, when the solenoid was not bypassed and the noise happened, I would reverse for a couple vehicle lengths the noise would not come back until the next day. Any ideas? Great video by the way. Love that you have all the socket sizes, torque specs and type of grease in it! Good job!
What if i replaced all that and a few months later, same problem! Did i get a bad actuator??
🙂🙂🙂🙂 Of course it is possible to get a defective part, but it may be that the part wasn't the issue to begin with. Anything that causes a loss of vacuum along the way from the engine to the hub can cause this issue. Alot of people jump to replacing the hub end. The vacuum lines can be cracked causing loss of vacuum (one particularly hard to diagnose place for vacuum line failure is where the line is held by a clip between the hub and engine bay, it will hold vacuum driving straight but the line shifts just enough when turning to lose vacuum when turning the wheel), the one way check valve can be bad (common fail) or the vacuum reservoir can have a leak. Important to test for holding vacuum all along the way... the one way check valve is like $10 and 2 minutes to replace and commonly goes bad... would be the first component I looked at before replacing hub end, hope this helps🙂🙂🙂🙂
Amazing video. Thanks much...gonna do it myself with the video's help. Any chance you could advise the torque down settings for putting Ball joint nut, the tie rod nut, and the hub nut please ?
Hey Joe, sure I'll pull the numbers for you. What year and engine in your f150?
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining Thanks so much. 2013 Ford F150 Lariat, 3.5 Ecoboost 6 cyl.
Hey Joe,
Ball joint nut (111 Lb-Ft) Tie-rod end nut (85 Lb-Ft) Hub Nut (20 Lb-Ft) , these specs are for a 4WD application.
@@GoTechTraining thanks so much sir
Hello, had a question, im getting a vibration in the left front when truck is cold, for about a mile or 2, it is intermittent, like if I were spinning a loose bearing and it chattered can that be the iwe going bad, also im getting a little noise when in 4wd, thanks Joe.......Also awesome video......
Definitely a great video great presentation straight to the point and explain of how it works
Thanks you gave me hope that it might not be my flex plate again
Did that on my F150. Was surprised when the ball joint and tie rod end popped right off.
Hey Emmett, like I said, I had to put a steering rack in it about a year ago, that's why the tie rod end popped so nicely :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
GoTech I guess I meant to say that I was surprised my ball joint and tie rod end popped right off. When I did the left side I thought there was no way I could be that lucky on the right side, but amazingly enough it did the same thing!
It was a straight forward job. Plenty of time for a few beers when done.
Hahah sorry, I misunderstood! I love having plenty of time for beers :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
My 2020 lariat just hit 65,000 miles and I've been encountering this noise and issue. Driving me nuts checking the vacumn. And components. Replaced, check valve, solenoid, and lines because the IWEs would take and hold vacumn. But then driving down the road I would still hear this noise on tje drivers side.
Many times the side you are hearing the noise is the opposite side of the issue. I suppose that trucks just out of warranty huh? You could try switching it into 4wd and see if the noise is gone.
~Mike
Hey Gabe,
Yeah these systems can be frustrating when they have small leaks. I have ran into that issue as well, most of the time one of the IWEs is the issue. They must leak while under the load of driving.
~Ryan
@GoTech Ryan thanks so much. It was extremely frustrating jacking the truck up, pumping it up and visually seeing it hold and work correctly with a vacumn gun and with the vacumn of the vehicle. But then make noise while driving. I bought one to replace on the driver's side , should be here Friday. With my 2020 only having 65,000 miles these aren't covered under warranty? Seems to be a very very common issue with these f 150s . I didn't know that.
@GoTech I believe 60,000 was the cutoff for the warranty. I don't believe these are considered part of the "powertrain" very frustrating not being able to visually see it mess up. I hope that the IWE I suspect is the culprit is the one messing up and it's not the other side. Do u recommend just replacing both?
I do recommend replacing both, if one leaks it will cause the good one to be partially engaged and then cause that one to fail.
My 2015 with 62,000 miles is making that grinding noise but it only does it in the first mile or so and it only lasts a second or so under light throttle. If I step on the gas it goes away which makes me think it is vacuum related. I replaced the check valve and solenoid and there was plenty of vacuum there so I’m thinking the iwe units themselves but need to get underneath and just see if anything looks obvious. If the truck fit in my garage I’d consider tackling this but don’t think I want to try this in the street if anything would go wrong. At least it only looks like a couple of hours to do both if I have to take it in. Thanks
Hey ScottyV1000, right, it shouldn't be too expensive of a job for a shop to do. The IWE's are relativly inexpensive.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Have you ever seen one of the actuator hub to be damaged and cause a wheel to lock up? Passenger side wheel locked up. Not the caliper…mechanically binding in the hub somehow. Slipping and will skid the tire…pops if I give it gas and it binds up and pops really loud. Intermittently it will release and drive fine for about 20 yards, then lock up again.