Sometimes just getting the vent unplugged fixes the issue. You can have a million years experience and not know everything. You would be surprised now many mechanics dont understand that suspension bushing bolts should be tightened at ride height. Heck Kenny here just posted the "funny looking valve cover video" There is a TSB about that issue. The PCV check valve goes bad and ruins the valve cover. Maybe he did it off camera but he never checked it. That is the root cause of the failure. When that check valve is ignored long enough the turbo is not long for life because its trying to pressurize the crankcase which its not designed to do.
I wouldn't be surprised if we have a follow up video of "axle seal leaking" since the pinion and cover are both new seals they are the next weakest link.
As a retired mechanic after 55 years in the trade, I used to do it exactly the same way. What I would also do is to clean up the seal surface on the flange with very fine emery paper lubricated with methylated spirits ( white spirits). Far less likely hood of leakage again. I do this for all seal surfaces. That said, excellent video. Thank you Kenny
What can i do if i didn’t mark the nut that has the tension when i was doing this job that nut was loose so i figured their was no point on marking so i put everything on and i cant go over 10 mph or ill get bad vibrations could it be way too tight?
You’ve done this job many times and it’s worked fine. Personal preference, clean off first, mark etc, but polish seal edge of flange, reinstall with a little bit of gear oil on the seal lip. I’ve never liked using an impact to tighten up rather feel if you’re getting too close to damaging the crush washer. Ouch! overdid this as an apprentice, a lesson well learnt.
Thank you for the detailed video. I'm a DIY mechanic taught by family members who are mechanics but I myself am learning through you all so I really appreciate these videos because it gives me the insight I need to learn these things so much appreciated!
I've never replace the crush sleeve when replacing the pinion seal. I can't say how many pinion seals I have replaced but I will say it's a lot. I set many 9" Ford gears for IMCA and USMTS Modifieds and I have hammered the old crush sleeves out so I could set the preload on new gear sets. Never had a failure. Thanks for sharing.
Kenny, I relied on your video to guide me through the pinion seal on my 2013 Ford F150. It was a great help, although I didn't have the luxury of a car lift. I was on my back doing the job. The most noticeable difference from the Ford you worked on and mine was rust! I live in the Chicago area. Axle was very rusty!
Best tip I can give to clean those oiled surfaces is a wooden outdoor broom, which you cut into small blocks, so you have 6 or so out of a single one. Hard bristles easily shift the dirt, and only a tiny amount of solvent needed.
Thanks for this vid Kenny, I've learned something today. I've always understood to retighten the pinion nut back to the original marked position. Interesting that you go slightly past this point, makes sense when I think about it.
I was glad to see the gloves were on when you had the fill plug in hand. Quite the metal sliver supply on the plug. Good tips on filling and making sure you know just how much to put in.
I like your overloading trick and I completely agree that this method is more than adequate. My vehicle at just short of 250000 miles I think we'll be good for the remainder of it's life. It's probably been 40 years since I did this so I just wanted to see if there were any new addons I wasn't aware of. Thanks
Looking to do this on my 2018 Mustang MT-82. That preload stuff was discouraging me, but after watch this video I’m gonna do it myself. I just replaced both axle seals. Find these cars oil seals fail pretty easy. Might get a national seal rather than the Ford, like I did with both axle seals. Great video man thank you
Did you ever end up doing it ? I have a 2015 and have bought the seal replacement kit but I am also reluctant to tackle this job due to all the preload stuff…
Great video Kenny, I learned a lot. Question: after you take out the seal can you reach in and remove the outer pinion bearing to inspect it? Some people say it's an interference fit and others say it comes out easy. Thanks in advance.
On one job I ran in to an after market device that positively locked the pinion nut in any position with wedging action from allen screws. This would allow you to set any preload you wanted even if the crush sleeve was over compressed and would avoid any backing off when reusing the pinion nut. I've tried red lock tite and had it still back off when trying to save the old crush sleeve.
Weld 2 bearing races together and weld a flat plate on 1 end, works great, i work alone in my shop and have to make my own tools because they cost too much and i live too far from tool stores!
I was taught to do that years ago. It is the proper way to get the pinion preload back to where it was. After doing many pinion seals over the years I found using a thin cutoff wheel or a little Dremel cutting wheel and cutting a small grove through the end of the pinion and into the end of the pinion nut. Just cut enough to make a locating line for the nut. When putting it back together you can put the nut in the exact spot it was and then see exactly how much more you want to go for the preload. I've seen people zip them nuts off to change the seal and never mark it. At that point all you can do is shake your head and walk away knowing your name is not on that repair 😅😅 feeling sorry for the vehicle owner
interesting video. Great work. Just one question.....why didn't you torque the cover bolts? I know that experienced mechanics get a feel for torque, but maybe not the best habit?
Excellent job same way ive done those fir years same also my dad taught me he run his own garage for almost 40 years till he got sick n passed away back 2001 but your great mechanic i love watching your channel
After locking up a diff when a ring gear bolt came loose, I always check the torque of the ring gear bolts before putting the cover back on. I have found many loose over the years.
Nothing personal, but my dad taught me cleanliness was next to Godliness when working on mechanical things, and only enforced when working on Air Force aircraft. It amazes me how many YT channels don't clean items before disassembling parts, even though they will often state--be careful this crud doesn't get into the part. Clean the crap off the parts before taking them apart. It does no harm and can only prevent future problems. I simply don't understand the reasoning behind not getting rid of grease and grime before taking something apart. I hate paying for a mechanic's work and being unable to tell if he's actually done anything, as it's just as grimy after as before.
@@eddiepond86 But a good mechanic cleans up before doing a dirty job and after. I'm not saying a steam clean is called for, but a simple spray and wipe goes a long way toward showing care was taken.
I ran into the problem of not being able to clean stuff prior to repairs while in the US Army. We're in the field a lot and had no means to clean the area beforehand, the best I could do most of the time was a wipe down with a rag if we had any dang rags! The Army was much different than the AF...even when working on the helicopters and such! Working on the tarmac was a different animal than working on vehicles and heavy equipment!
Watched another video. Guy used a torque wrench to see how many inch pounds it took to turn shaft before loosening the nut. He then tightened nut slowly to achieve the same torque torque
Only accurate if the differential carrier is removed. This is the only way to get the nut tightened properly. This is the old school way and still the best way.
Snappy make that socket for 12x12p drive line socket like yours, old tech I worked with said his Snappy at Ford said a 3/8" 12mm 12p extra shallow. The size of the impact swivels top was the special at time. I bought a 12mm 12p 3/8 impact swivel and 17mm for tranny, with 36" 1/2 to 3/8 ext.
@@jetmonroe7 On my vehicle the breather is a little round cap at the top of the diff housing - it should be free to move if you try and wiggle it. If it feels solid it's probable blocked with mud or road grime.
What if the pinion nut was showing only 1 thread deep? When reinstalling the pinion nut back on I had to go beyond the 1 thread deep mark because the flange was loose if I stayed at the 1 thread in mark. Have you experienced this and what would you recommend? Thank you.
A lot of times, that is a self locking nut. It will get tight at the end of the nut when it hits the threaded area. You could just keep going until you feel drag on the pinion. I hope the info helps. Keep wrenching 🔧
I don't understand the three marks before disassembly. How do you know how many threads you used tightening the nut, as that is how the tension is determined. What am I missing? Thx
You don't know how many threads. As you tighten your listening for the sound to change and you're feeling for the play to go away. When the play is gone and the sound changes abruptly, you continue to tighten until the mark on the nut is just beyond the pinion mark. The mark on the flange is just not that important. Also, he was feeling for the rotational torque to increase slightly.
@@needhelp2453 u bump the impact in small increments ..remove the socket and count the threads..its not rocket science..just like u count threads on a outer tie rod..so to keep the toe correct.
Brother Kenny, you are way too funny when hearing the sounds from squeezing the bottles of gear oil into the housing and you say sounds like Taco Bell! LOL I enjoy seeing you have fun while working.
The new crush washers,a pain to compress.Some older rear ends do not have a crush washer.Replaced the pinion seal in my dad's 1946 Dodge pickup,has a steel sleeve instead of a crush washer in the differential.
Pre spray the bolts with penetrating oil let set for awhile then spray again, if still having problems use a heat torch and heat the bolts up don’t go crazy on them if you get them out you can reuse them or get new new ones.
So. Does FoMoCo still use the yellow loctite on those 12 pt fasteners that you have the special socket for? I remember fighting to remove them back in the early 90’s.
Only if it's a new build or the crush collar was just replaced. You wouldn't be able to achieve the correct torque & end up destroying bearings. They way I show you is basically a cheat. I haven't had one come back. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
If you have seals leaking always check breather up top. Will get clogged with dirt dobbers.i put one on my f150 with a closed cap one way breather that wont clog for a Tacoma
Do you verify the diff actually has a crush collar? Not many of them do. Ford 9 inch and some late Mopar 8.75 do. Maybe some newer ones do too. If no crush collar, then Kenny’s method works, you just end up with slightly tighter flange nut torque but no change to pinion preload because pinion preload is set with shims at original assembly. If it has a crush collar, this method could result in overloaded pinion bearings and burnout. With a crush collar, to maintain correct pinion preload and pinion nut torque, add a .020 thick shim washer on the pinion shaft before installing the flange, then tighten to your marks but not further.
That is why he said when tighting back you turn a little past the previous mark. Which in turn would be your 0.020.9.75 Ford have crush sleeves as 8.8 also
If you just re-torque the pinion nut like you did the first time you're going to go past where you were. Essentially unless you get new bearings, you can keep using the crush sleeve. Bearing wear is always going to make the crush washer a half a thousand "longer" than it needs to be.
I know “silicone” is a popular slang term for sealant, but everybody has been using urethane based sealants for a few decades now, far superior sealant.
marking the nut it could be turned a number of times to line up the mark! Counting turns is a lot better method. Just turn by hand wrench not with power tools.
Recently I thought its old, check the rear diff oil, that square drive was in so tight that the drive on the racht rung off. I did get it out and it did need some oil. Wish the last guy had taken your class
I just use a paint marker and mark the end of the pinion and nut. Count how many threads are showing and use a 2 jaw puller on the yoke. Take a flat blade and hammer the outside flange inwards enough to get behind it and pry it out. Quicker than a seal puller especially if the last tech glued it in. Should always put some kind of sealant on the splines to stop the oil from seeping past the nut. And there's no way that impact can put enough torque on that nut. If the crush sleeve isn't collapsed it will still expand a little bit where you'll have to compress upon reassembly. There's next to no preload on those bearings using that impact so your going to get premature bearing wear and the seal will leak again. The crush sleeve in those 9 3/4 diffs are almost impossible to crush and can still take a couple hundred foot pounds to get the original preload correct..... that's why you shouldalwaysdo a thread count. And always make sure the vent is clear. Pretty sure the 9 3/4in calls for 75-140
What kinda Tri Pod do you use for video and camera? Is this the impact you use? DEWALT 20V MAX* XR Cordless Impact Wrench, 3/8-Inch, Tool Only (DCF890B)
Vent tube or cap on top of axle should be checked for blockage so that pressure inside axle tube releases. I never use chrome sockets (usually 12 point) for impact, air or electric, they were designed for hand tool use only. Most people don't have in their tool inventory the black impact ( 6 point) sockets and 12 point impact sockets are usually found on the expensive tool trucks only.
I have ford f150 XLT 2009 model supercrew, do all pinion seal have the same size? because they say that in your differential back cover have 10pcs bolt, you got 8.8 size of pinion seal, if you got 12pcs bolt in your differential back cover you got 9.75 size of pinion seal, is this true? So that i know what size i’m gonna buy it. Thanks for the reply.
As below, also a retired mechanic of 55 years in UK. I would always check the axle breather for blockage after fixing an oil leak. Good job Kenny.
Sometimes just getting the vent unplugged fixes the issue. You can have a million years experience and not know everything. You would be surprised now many mechanics dont understand that suspension bushing bolts should be tightened at ride height. Heck Kenny here just posted the "funny looking valve cover video" There is a TSB about that issue. The PCV check valve goes bad and ruins the valve cover. Maybe he did it off camera but he never checked it. That is the root cause of the failure. When that check valve is ignored long enough the turbo is not long for life because its trying to pressurize the crankcase which its not designed to do.
I wouldn't be surprised if we have a follow up video of "axle seal leaking" since the pinion and cover are both new seals they are the next weakest link.
The vent is usually the cause of the pinion seal leaks unless the bearing is bad or a bad rear u joint.
As a retired mechanic after 55 years in the trade, I used to do it exactly the same way. What I would also do is to clean up the seal surface on the flange with very fine emery paper lubricated with methylated spirits ( white spirits). Far less likely hood of leakage again. I do this for all seal surfaces. That said, excellent video. Thank you Kenny
In almost every rear differential leaking issue I have come across the vent tube is plugged up.
What can i do if i didn’t mark the nut that has the tension when i was doing this job that nut was loose so i figured their was no point on marking so i put everything on and i cant go over 10 mph or ill get bad vibrations could it be way too tight?
You’ve done this job many times and it’s worked fine. Personal preference, clean off first, mark etc, but polish seal edge of flange, reinstall with a little bit of gear oil on the seal lip. I’ve never liked using an impact to tighten up rather feel if you’re getting too close to damaging the crush washer. Ouch! overdid this as an apprentice, a lesson well learnt.
Yah be sure to buy yourself the same Snapon blammo so you can wack bc that bearing until it looks like. Ruffles wavy chip.
I learned this pinion seal replacement method in technical college in 1992. Saves a lot of time, obviously, and save money for the customer.
Your awesome, what great knowledge your giving away. Hopefully the younger generation appreciates how valuable your teaching is. Thanks.
Thank you for your kind words & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Thank you for the detailed video. I'm a DIY mechanic taught by family members who are mechanics but I myself am learning through you all so I really appreciate these videos because it gives me the insight I need to learn these things so much appreciated!
I've never replace the crush sleeve when replacing the pinion seal. I can't say how many pinion seals I have replaced but I will say it's a lot. I set many 9" Ford gears for IMCA and USMTS Modifieds and I have hammered the old crush sleeves out so I could set the preload on new gear sets. Never had a failure. Thanks for sharing.
That's the exact way my father taught me when I was about 12 years old! Many decades ago! Great video Kenny!!
Kenny, I relied on your video to guide me through the pinion seal on my 2013 Ford F150. It was a great help, although I didn't have the luxury of a car lift. I was on my back doing the job. The most noticeable difference from the Ford you worked on and mine was rust! I live in the Chicago area. Axle was very rusty!
@davidclaes1409 I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching - Kenny
Count the threads as well as marking just like you did
Great job and tips. I have shyed away from seal replacements due to the crush collar. Now I know another way to do it. Thanks.
I would 100% want this gentleman to work on my vehicle.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣
Good evening Mr Kenny, hope you had a great Tuesday and thank you for the video sir. Your information is very appreciated and helpful
Do you not need to check the dif vent as well?
Does this work most of the time...without replacing crush sleeve
Best tip I can give to clean those oiled surfaces is a wooden outdoor broom, which you cut into small blocks, so you have 6 or so out of a single one. Hard bristles easily shift the dirt, and only a tiny amount of solvent needed.
I do almost the same, just I mark the socket and count the turns, and use a breaker bar,rachet. Just did 4 pinion seals this past summer.
Thanks for this vid Kenny, I've learned something today. I've always understood to retighten the pinion nut back to the original marked position. Interesting that you go slightly past this point, makes sense when I think about it.
Nice video! Need to do this on my parent’s truck today and it was a perfect refresher!
I do thank you for making longer videos!
I was glad to see the gloves were on when you had the fill plug in hand. Quite the metal sliver supply on the plug. Good tips on filling and making sure you know just how much to put in.
I like your overloading trick and I completely agree that this method is more than adequate. My vehicle at just short of 250000 miles I think we'll be good for the remainder of it's life. It's probably been 40 years since I did this so I just wanted to see if there were any new addons I wasn't aware of. Thanks
No friction modifer fluid in the rear end? I heard it reduces gear noise. Thanks for the videos!
Looking to do this on my 2018 Mustang MT-82. That preload stuff was discouraging me, but after watch this video I’m gonna do it myself. I just replaced both axle seals. Find these cars oil seals fail pretty easy. Might get a national seal rather than the Ford, like I did with both axle seals. Great video man thank you
Did you ever end up doing it ? I have a 2015 and have bought the seal replacement kit but I am also reluctant to tackle this job due to all the preload stuff…
Great video Kenny, I learned a lot. Question: after you take out the seal can you reach in and remove the outer pinion bearing to inspect it? Some people say it's an interference fit and others say it comes out easy. Thanks in advance.
U can take drills and drill a small hole. Use 10:51 a slide hammer puller and pop it out
Thanks for the great tip on marking the pinon Kenny. Taco bell with beer . 😅
On one job I ran in to an after market device that positively locked the pinion nut in any position with wedging action from allen screws. This would allow you to set any preload you wanted even if the crush sleeve was over compressed and would avoid any backing off when reusing the pinion nut. I've tried red lock tite and had it still back off when trying to save the old crush sleeve.
Weld 2 bearing races together and weld a flat plate on 1 end, works great, i work alone in my shop and have to make my own tools because they cost too much and i live too far from tool stores!
Damn, you are a great Teacher/ instructor!
I was taught to do that years ago. It is the proper way to get the pinion preload back to where it was. After doing many pinion seals over the years I found using a thin cutoff wheel or a little Dremel cutting wheel and cutting a small grove through the end of the pinion and into the end of the pinion nut. Just cut enough to make a locating line for the nut. When putting it back together you can put the nut in the exact spot it was and then see exactly how much more you want to go for the preload. I've seen people zip them nuts off to change the seal and never mark it. At that point all you can do is shake your head and walk away knowing your name is not on that repair 😅😅 feeling sorry for the vehicle owner
Thanks for the info. What size socket for the nut on the flange?
1-1/8” or 29mm
A 12 inch piece of tubing on the fill cap makes getting the bottles empty much easier.
That's what I did.
interesting video. Great work. Just one question.....why didn't you torque the cover bolts? I know that experienced mechanics get a feel for torque, but maybe not the best habit?
I do the same, but I also check the flange to shaft with a depth mic.
Excellent job same way ive done those fir years same also my dad taught me he run his own garage for almost 40 years till he got sick n passed away back 2001 but your great mechanic i love watching your channel
Great video, thanks for sharing this :) - about to do the same thing for my 07' Mustang GT so glad I found such a thorough and nice to follow vid!
I've used the harbor freight Quinn brand chrome on my impact for a couple years now. Haven't broke one yet to my surprise.
Hey thanks Love when a plan comes together
After locking up a diff when a ring gear bolt came loose, I always check the torque of the ring gear bolts before putting the cover back on. I have found many loose over the years.
Loc tite on the bolts and pinion like factory? Maybe check diff. Vent for blockage? Just an idea.
Nothing personal, but my dad taught me cleanliness was next to Godliness when working on mechanical things, and only enforced when working on Air Force aircraft. It amazes me how many YT channels don't clean items before disassembling parts, even though they will often state--be careful this crud doesn't get into the part. Clean the crap off the parts before taking them apart. It does no harm and can only prevent future problems. I simply don't understand the reasoning behind not getting rid of grease and grime before taking something apart. I hate paying for a mechanic's work and being unable to tell if he's actually done anything, as it's just as grimy after as before.
This is a lot of the reason why I’d rather fix things myself. In a mechanics defense, they don’t get paid to clean.
Did you check the vent for air flow. Blockage could cause high pressure when hot. 😢
@@eddiepond86 But a good mechanic cleans up before doing a dirty job and after. I'm not saying a steam clean is called for, but a simple spray and wipe goes a long way toward showing care was taken.
I ran into the problem of not being able to clean stuff prior to repairs while in the US Army. We're in the field a lot and had no means to clean the area beforehand, the best I could do most of the time was a wipe down with a rag if we had any dang rags! The Army was much different than the AF...even when working on the helicopters and such! Working on the tarmac was a different animal than working on vehicles and heavy equipment!
@@eddiepond86Lazy hack auto mechanics do get paid to clean, many elect not to.
I had to do this job on a 97 dodge ram pickup. Good video
Hi! I have a F 150 2018 5.0 l ! Is ghis the same for my f150? Thanks! And Thanks so much for this video!!!
Watched another video. Guy used a torque wrench to see how many inch pounds it took to turn shaft before loosening the nut. He then tightened nut slowly to achieve the same torque torque
Only accurate if the differential carrier is removed. This is the only way to get the nut tightened properly. This is the old school way and still the best way.
A nice job and good, useful video - consider a carbide scraper on the gasket surface. Those rolocs have ruined a lot of engines.
Snappy make that socket for 12x12p drive line socket like yours, old tech I worked with said his Snappy at Ford said a 3/8" 12mm 12p extra shallow. The size of the impact swivels top was the special at time.
I bought a 12mm 12p 3/8 impact swivel and 17mm for tranny, with 36" 1/2 to 3/8 ext.
I don’t know why you marked that u joint. I only do that when I have to replace the carrier bearing to get all the u joints lined up.
FWIW I like to check the diff breather while I'm there just in case it's blocked up with crud.
How do you check it? Asking because I believe my trucks pinion seal is bad and need to check vent as well
@@jetmonroe7
On my vehicle the breather is a little round cap at the top of the diff housing - it should be free to move if you try and wiggle it. If it feels solid it's probable blocked with mud or road grime.
What size nut is that you took off the differential
Get a pipe plug and put in the end of the pipe you found then you can hit it dead center instead of moving around the edge of the union .
Are the marks to keep the correct backlash?
The marks are for the pinion bearing preload. Backlash is set by shimming the carrier.
Great stuff. wish you had also done this on a 9 inch as Im about to tackle one but thanks heaps for the tips.
What year is this F150? My son’s truck needs the same thing done. Was just curious what years this procedure would pertain to. His is a 2018.
What if the pinion nut was showing only 1 thread deep? When reinstalling the pinion nut back on I had to go beyond the 1 thread deep mark because the flange was loose if I stayed at the 1 thread in mark. Have you experienced this and what would you recommend? Thank you.
A lot of times, that is a self locking nut. It will get tight at the end of the nut when it hits the threaded area. You could just keep going until you feel drag on the pinion. I hope the info helps. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Thanks alot. I have and will. Thanks!
What size socket on the pinion nut?
1-1/8” or 29mm
Can you use Lucas heavy duty grease instead of the transmission assembly gel?
Is this the same process as a 2001 8.8 or what I call a 10 bolt?
Thanks!.......great job!
I don't understand the three marks before disassembly. How do you know how many threads you used tightening the nut, as that is how the tension is determined. What am I missing? Thx
If you notice it took some tightening to get it to line up. Then he tightened a bit more past. That's how you know it's good.
You don't know how many threads. As you tighten your listening for the sound to change and you're feeling for the play to go away. When the play is gone and the sound changes abruptly, you continue to tighten until the mark on the nut is just beyond the pinion mark. The mark on the flange is just not that important. Also, he was feeling for the rotational torque to increase slightly.
U are supposed to count the threads..u are correct..
@@mikea1973 if you remove the nut with an impact like he did and installed it with an impact, how can you possibly count the threads.
@@needhelp2453 u bump the impact in small increments ..remove the socket and count the threads..its not rocket science..just like u count threads on a outer tie rod..so to keep the toe correct.
Why do you not use impact sockets?
I question a lot of real mechanics on that also. 🤔
Brother Kenny, you are way too funny when hearing the sounds from squeezing the bottles of gear oil into the housing and you say sounds like Taco Bell! LOL I enjoy seeing you have fun while working.
Sunex sells "driveline sockets" like that -- and they have a little bit of wobble built into the socket at the end of an extension.
how much more do you go past the original marks when tightening back up?..cheers
I believe the numbers on seals and bearings refer to their measurements that would make a good short video..
7:50 leverage is a wonderful thing
The new crush washers,a pain to compress.Some older rear ends do not have a crush washer.Replaced the pinion seal in my dad's 1946 Dodge pickup,has a steel sleeve instead of a crush washer in the differential.
Any ideas on getting these 12 points out? I've tried everything outside of extraction tools.They are so rusted
Pre spray the bolts with penetrating oil let set for awhile then spray again, if still having problems use a heat torch and heat the bolts up don’t go crazy on them if you get them out you can reuse them or get new new ones.
So. Does FoMoCo still use the yellow loctite on those 12 pt fasteners that you have the special socket for?
I remember fighting to remove them back in the early 90’s.
Add a piece of hose to the cap on the bottle to allow it to be held up to add fluid to differential?
I would use a torque wrench on the driveshaft just because if it lets loose it will ruin the truck
Shouldn’t that pinion nut be torqued? Thanks for the video.
Only if it's a new build or the crush collar was just replaced. You wouldn't be able to achieve the correct torque & end up destroying bearings. They way I show you is basically a cheat. I haven't had one come back. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
No removable loctite on the 4 flange bolts? I blew up 2 sockets getting the originals off.
The bag gear lube is the best.
If you have seals leaking always check breather up top. Will get clogged with dirt dobbers.i put one on my f150 with a closed cap one way breather that wont clog for a Tacoma
Do you verify the diff actually has a crush collar? Not many of them do. Ford 9 inch and some late Mopar 8.75 do. Maybe some newer ones do too. If no crush collar, then Kenny’s method works, you just end up with slightly tighter flange nut torque but no change to pinion preload because pinion preload is set with shims at original assembly. If it has a crush collar, this method could result in overloaded pinion bearings and burnout. With a crush collar, to maintain correct pinion preload and pinion nut torque, add a .020 thick shim washer on the pinion shaft before installing the flange, then tighten to your marks but not further.
That is why he said when tighting back you turn a little past the previous mark. Which in turn would be your 0.020.9.75 Ford have crush sleeves as 8.8 also
I do these on semis all day and I wish it was this easy.
If you just re-torque the pinion nut like you did the first time you're going to go past where you were. Essentially unless you get new bearings, you can keep using the crush sleeve. Bearing wear is always going to make the crush washer a half a thousand "longer" than it needs to be.
Does anyone know the tool used to remove the driveshaft bolts?
It's a 12mm 12 point. You can use a wrench or a socket. There are specialty sockets for it too. Keep wrenching 🔧
Hey Kenny, I've got a 72 Chevy C20 with a Eaton HO-52. Would this procedure still apply?
I know “silicone” is a popular slang term for sealant, but everybody has been using urethane based sealants for a few decades now, far superior sealant.
marking the nut it could be turned a number of times to line up the mark! Counting turns is a lot better method. Just turn by hand wrench not with power tools.
Recently I thought its old, check the rear diff oil, that square drive was in so tight that the drive on the racht rung off. I did get it out and it did need some oil. Wish the last guy had taken your class
Good video, I learned something new
I just use a paint marker and mark the end of the pinion and nut. Count how many threads are showing and use a 2 jaw puller on the yoke. Take a flat blade and hammer the outside flange inwards enough to get behind it and pry it out. Quicker than a seal puller especially if the last tech glued it in. Should always put some kind of sealant on the splines to stop the oil from seeping past the nut. And there's no way that impact can put enough torque on that nut. If the crush sleeve isn't collapsed it will still expand a little bit where you'll have to compress upon reassembly. There's next to no preload on those bearings using that impact so your going to get premature bearing wear and the seal will leak again. The crush sleeve in those 9 3/4 diffs are almost impossible to crush and can still take a couple hundred foot pounds to get the original preload correct..... that's why you shouldalwaysdo a thread count. And always make sure the vent is clear. Pretty sure the 9 3/4in calls for 75-140
Great video. Thank you
What kinda Tri Pod do you use for video and camera? Is this the impact you use? DEWALT
20V MAX* XR Cordless Impact Wrench, 3/8-Inch, Tool Only (DCF890B)
Just working on the old 9.75 in. Ford. I think that was the original gear oil.
Is that inner or outer pinion seal mines bad but parts store don't know I'm asking for lol
Vent tube or cap on top of axle should be checked for blockage so that pressure inside axle tube releases. I never use chrome sockets (usually 12 point) for impact, air or electric, they were designed for hand tool use only. Most people don't have in their tool inventory the black impact ( 6 point) sockets and 12 point impact sockets are usually found on the expensive tool trucks only.
Chrome sockets still have a lifetime warranty so send it.
I would use my old Craftsman sockets, 6 pointers. Back when they were U.S.A made.
I have ford f150 XLT 2009 model supercrew, do all pinion seal have the same size? because they say that in your differential back cover have 10pcs bolt, you got 8.8 size of pinion seal, if you got 12pcs bolt in your differential back cover you got 9.75 size of pinion seal, is this true? So that i know what size i’m gonna buy it. Thanks for the reply.
What kind of school did you get your automotive Tech training and how many years?
just one thing i noticed, you do not need to put the drive shaft back in thee same position, they are balanced separately not in situ.
Why are you not using impact sockets???
The correct way to do it is to replace check back lash and wear pattern and crush collar! I would also replace the axle seals to do a complete job!
I would think torquing the pinion nut would be a given instead of guessing at it
Some dont have a torque set you go by feel
You can't feel it with a battery impact
A true backyard mechanic move, Good Job!
Thx Kenny great video 📸
Those impact guns can be rebuilt DIY if you want to keep it.
Dude thank you so much!!! 🇲🇽