Rear Pinion Seal Replacement The Easy Way!! Ford f150
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2024
- Ford f150 rear pinion replacement seal removal & replacement
Cyclops Light - amzn.to/48BiJbG
Easy to use handheld - amzn.to/46nMFrz
Budget friendly, professional style scanner - amzn.to/44iDdUM
Basic Code Reader - amzn.to/3GZFDhT
Blue tooth scan tool - amzn.to/3org3vL
Perfect panel trim tool - amzn.to/40hPshS
Push pin removal pliers - amzn.to/3US2FN7
Excellent beginner plus tool kit - amzn.to/3UY6e4z
Excellent Basic Starter Tool Kit - amzn.to/41JVRn2
Must Have Gearwrench set - amzn.to/3AfZNAc
Power Probe Circuit Tester - amzn.to/3mOrQ6N
Basic Test Light - amzn.to/40mKdNN
Facebook links - both Facebook are closed groups, meaning you have to answer all the questions to join. Both groups are full of follow mechanics, some retired, some working in the trade & some excellent backyard/shade tree mechanics.
Show us what you're working on!
Wrenching with Kenny = / 575412787264269
Backyard Mechanics = / 442507346633755
@WrenchingWithKenny @SNAFU.performance @traditionovertrend2704 @ktmracingsisters1261 @matersworkshop6123 @MotorMouthRadio @cruzcorp914
#wrenchingwithkenny #keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks
#mechanic #automechanic #autorepair #automotiverepair
#ford #f150 #rearend #pinion
2019 Ford F150 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
As below, also a retired mechanic of 55 years in UK. I would always check the axle breather for blockage after fixing an oil leak. Good job Kenny.
Sometimes just getting the vent unplugged fixes the issue. You can have a million years experience and not know everything. You would be surprised now many mechanics dont understand that suspension bushing bolts should be tightened at ride height. Heck Kenny here just posted the "funny looking valve cover video" There is a TSB about that issue. The PCV check valve goes bad and ruins the valve cover. Maybe he did it off camera but he never checked it. That is the root cause of the failure. When that check valve is ignored long enough the turbo is not long for life because its trying to pressurize the crankcase which its not designed to do.
I wouldn't be surprised if we have a follow up video of "axle seal leaking" since the pinion and cover are both new seals they are the next weakest link.
You’ve done this job many times and it’s worked fine. Personal preference, clean off first, mark etc, but polish seal edge of flange, reinstall with a little bit of gear oil on the seal lip. I’ve never liked using an impact to tighten up rather feel if you’re getting too close to damaging the crush washer. Ouch! overdid this as an apprentice, a lesson well learnt.
As a retired mechanic after 55 years in the trade, I used to do it exactly the same way. What I would also do is to clean up the seal surface on the flange with very fine emery paper lubricated with methylated spirits ( white spirits). Far less likely hood of leakage again. I do this for all seal surfaces. That said, excellent video. Thank you Kenny
In almost every rear differential leaking issue I have come across the vent tube is plugged up.
What can i do if i didn’t mark the nut that has the tension when i was doing this job that nut was loose so i figured their was no point on marking so i put everything on and i cant go over 10 mph or ill get bad vibrations could it be way too tight?
Count the threads as well as marking just like you did
Thanks for the great tip on marking the pinon Kenny. Taco bell with beer . 😅
That's the exact way my father taught me when I was about 12 years old! Many decades ago! Great video Kenny!!
Best tip I can give to clean those oiled surfaces is a wooden outdoor broom, which you cut into small blocks, so you have 6 or so out of a single one. Hard bristles easily shift the dirt, and only a tiny amount of solvent needed.
Good evening Mr Kenny, hope you had a great Tuesday and thank you for the video sir. Your information is very appreciated and helpful
Do you not need to check the dif vent as well?
I do thank you for making longer videos!
Great job and tips. I have shyed away from seal replacements due to the crush collar. Now I know another way to do it. Thanks.
I was glad to see the gloves were on when you had the fill plug in hand. Quite the metal sliver supply on the plug. Good tips on filling and making sure you know just how much to put in.
Thanks for this vid Kenny, I've learned something today. I've always understood to retighten the pinion nut back to the original marked position. Interesting that you go slightly past this point, makes sense when I think about it.
I do almost the same, just I mark the socket and count the turns, and use a breaker bar,rachet. Just did 4 pinion seals this past summer.
Great video. Thank you
Thx Kenny great video 📸
Yay Kenny! Good work!
Good video, I learned something new
I've never replace the crush sleeve when replacing the pinion seal. I can't say how many pinion seals I have replaced but I will say it's a lot. I set many 9" Ford gears for IMCA and USMTS Modifieds and I have hammered the old crush sleeves out so I could set the preload on new gear sets. Never had a failure. Thanks for sharing.
great video!
great video thanks!!!
FWIW I like to check the diff breather while I'm there just in case it's blocked up with crud.
Loc tite on the bolts and pinion like factory? Maybe check diff. Vent for blockage? Just an idea.
Nice job
On one job I ran in to an after market device that positively locked the pinion nut in any position with wedging action from allen screws. This would allow you to set any preload you wanted even if the crush sleeve was over compressed and would avoid any backing off when reusing the pinion nut. I've tried red lock tite and had it still back off when trying to save the old crush sleeve.
Snappy make that socket for 12x12p drive line socket like yours, old tech I worked with said his Snappy at Ford said a 3/8" 12mm 12p extra shallow. The size of the impact swivels top was the special at time.
I bought a 12mm 12p 3/8 impact swivel and 17mm for tranny, with 36" 1/2 to 3/8 ext.
Thank U.
Enjoy your content Kenny
Brother Kenny, you are way too funny when hearing the sounds from squeezing the bottles of gear oil into the housing and you say sounds like Taco Bell! LOL I enjoy seeing you have fun while working.
On that seal puller grind the tips rounded and if you are careful you wont damage the housing as easily.
Vent tube or cap on top of axle should be checked for blockage so that pressure inside axle tube releases. I never use chrome sockets (usually 12 point) for impact, air or electric, they were designed for hand tool use only. Most people don't have in their tool inventory the black impact ( 6 point) sockets and 12 point impact sockets are usually found on the expensive tool trucks only.
Chrome sockets still have a lifetime warranty so send it.
I don’t know why you marked that u joint. I only do that when I have to replace the carrier bearing to get all the u joints lined up.
I do these on semis all day and I wish it was this easy.
I believe the numbers on seals and bearings refer to their measurements that would make a good short video..
Just working on the old 9.75 in. Ford. I think that was the original gear oil.
Hey Kenny, I've got a 72 Chevy C20 with a Eaton HO-52. Would this procedure still apply?
TY
7:50 leverage is a wonderful thing
The bag gear lube is the best.
Why do you not use impact sockets?
The new crush washers,a pain to compress.Some older rear ends do not have a crush washer.Replaced the pinion seal in my dad's 1946 Dodge pickup,has a steel sleeve instead of a crush washer in the differential.
Is this the same process as a 2001 8.8 or what I call a 10 bolt?
What kind of school did you get your automotive Tech training and how many years?
Watched another video. Guy used a torque wrench to see how many inch pounds it took to turn shaft before loosening the nut. He then tightened nut slowly to achieve the same torque torque
Only accurate if the differential carrier is removed. This is the only way to get the nut tightened properly. This is the old school way and still the best way.
What kinda Tri Pod do you use for video and camera? Is this the impact you use? DEWALT
20V MAX* XR Cordless Impact Wrench, 3/8-Inch, Tool Only (DCF890B)
If you have seals leaking always check breather up top. Will get clogged with dirt dobbers.i put one on my f150 with a closed cap one way breather that wont clog for a Tacoma
Recently I thought its old, check the rear diff oil, that square drive was in so tight that the drive on the racht rung off. I did get it out and it did need some oil. Wish the last guy had taken your class
"uhhh taco bell"... I felt that one haha
Those impact guns can be rebuilt DIY if you want to keep it.
Do you verify the diff actually has a crush collar? Not many of them do. Ford 9 inch and some late Mopar 8.75 do. Maybe some newer ones do too. If no crush collar, then Kenny’s method works, you just end up with slightly tighter flange nut torque but no change to pinion preload because pinion preload is set with shims at original assembly. If it has a crush collar, this method could result in overloaded pinion bearings and burnout. With a crush collar, to maintain correct pinion preload and pinion nut torque, add a .020 thick shim washer on the pinion shaft before installing the flange, then tighten to your marks but not further.
That is why he said when tighting back you turn a little past the previous mark. Which in turn would be your 0.020.9.75 Ford have crush sleeves as 8.8 also
Sunex makes a driveline swivel head set
Are the marks to keep the correct backlash?
The marks are for the pinion bearing preload. Backlash is set by shimming the carrier.
Shouldn’t that pinion nut be torqued? Thanks for the video.
Only if it's a new build or the crush collar was just replaced. You wouldn't be able to achieve the correct torque & end up destroying bearings. They way I show you is basically a cheat. I haven't had one come back. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
I don't understand the three marks before disassembly. How do you know how many threads you used tightening the nut, as that is how the tension is determined. What am I missing? Thx
If you notice it took some tightening to get it to line up. Then he tightened a bit more past. That's how you know it's good.
You don't know how many threads. As you tighten your listening for the sound to change and you're feeling for the play to go away. When the play is gone and the sound changes abruptly, you continue to tighten until the mark on the nut is just beyond the pinion mark. The mark on the flange is just not that important. Also, he was feeling for the rotational torque to increase slightly.
U are supposed to count the threads..u are correct..
@@mikea1973 if you remove the nut with an impact like he did and installed it with an impact, how can you possibly count the threads.
@@needhelp2453 u bump the impact in small increments ..remove the socket and count the threads..its not rocket science..just like u count threads on a outer tie rod..so to keep the toe correct.
What if the pinion nut was showing only 1 thread deep? When reinstalling the pinion nut back on I had to go beyond the 1 thread deep mark because the flange was loose if I stayed at the 1 thread in mark. Have you experienced this and what would you recommend? Thank you.
A lot of times, that is a self locking nut. It will get tight at the end of the nut when it hits the threaded area. You could just keep going until you feel drag on the pinion. I hope the info helps. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Thanks alot. I have and will. Thanks!
i bought a a set of northern sockets 1/2 incn drive for $20 dollars had a job had to remove rusty bolts broke 2 1/2 breaker bars 1 was a snap on never broke the socket
Great video but I dont know about that shortcut. I always replaced that crush washer. Not worth risking a comeback and the increased risk of eating the cost of a rear diff job.
Go to HF and get a pump to fit those bottles, no more tapered nozzles required.
Nothing personal, but my dad taught me cleanliness was next to Godliness when working on mechanical things, and only enforced when working on Air Force aircraft. It amazes me how many YT channels don't clean items before disassembling parts, even though they will often state--be careful this crud doesn't get into the part. Clean the crap off the parts before taking them apart. It does no harm and can only prevent future problems. I simply don't understand the reasoning behind not getting rid of grease and grime before taking something apart. I hate paying for a mechanic's work and being unable to tell if he's actually done anything, as it's just as grimy after as before.
This is a lot of the reason why I’d rather fix things myself. In a mechanics defense, they don’t get paid to clean.
Did you check the vent for air flow. Blockage could cause high pressure when hot. 😢
@@eddiepond86 But a good mechanic cleans up before doing a dirty job and after. I'm not saying a steam clean is called for, but a simple spray and wipe goes a long way toward showing care was taken.
I ran into the problem of not being able to clean stuff prior to repairs while in the US Army. We're in the field a lot and had no means to clean the area beforehand, the best I could do most of the time was a wipe down with a rag if we had any dang rags! The Army was much different than the AF...even when working on the helicopters and such! Working on the tarmac was a different animal than working on vehicles and heavy equipment!
@@eddiepond86Lazy hack auto mechanics do get paid to clean, many elect not to.
I would think torquing the pinion nut would be a given instead of guessing at it
Some dont have a torque set you go by feel
You can't feel it with a battery impact
" You don't have to go Bananas"🍌
Kenny likes clean before he puts his own grease in.
Just a fyi replace the 18 volt battery with a 20 volt adapter will give you a little more power and the old 18 volt DeWalts are bulletproof to begin with to me there better than new ones,,if you have to try your local flea market...
I can almost guarantee the u- joints were already replaced ! Now there °180 off ! 50/50 chance its not out of balance ! An axle shaft balance test can confirm this !
You did not have dif fluid in bulk.
When used correctly, you won't have a reason for replacement. The wall is thicker for impacts and chrome are thin wall. Pay me now or pay me later. They can reject replacement for misuse.
Comment for the anti-Al-Gore-rhythim 😆 😆
Very shoddy work at best seal was cock eyed going in and he just forced it with a hammer job will need redone shortly
That's going to be on Kenny's tombstone 🪦"I've seen that too many times before" 😂
He really doesnt like bannanas😅