Not myself personally, but one thing I never see many builders talk about is the role landscaping can play in the efficiency of a house too. My grandfather, in northern Wisconsin, planted pine trees to the west of the house which is where the prevailing winter winds were, and then birch, oak and maple to the south part of the house to give shade in summer from the sun. Then gain that same sun back in fall and winter when the leaves fell. Wind breaks from the winter cold, and shade from the sun made a huge difference in the temperature of the house.
This book is Awesome! I love the Lean-To-Shed the most (page 98). The plan th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR is to attach it to the back of my brick house. I also like how they walk you through the many different steps of construction, which is important for the less experienced like me.
I just watched this on another device. But I had to come to my PC so I could type a thank you note easier. In 2016 we were planning a new house on about 13 acres out in the sticks. We wanted simple, efficient, open, and not too expensive. We had grand ideas of some contemporary concrete and steel structure, but finding contractors willing and able to do that at reasonable rates was only a dream. I watched just about all of your content back then and gleaned a lot of knowledge that guided some of my more important decisions. We are in Central Kentucky to give you and idea of our climate. I decided on 2x6 walls, blown in fiberglass in the walls, 2" rigid foam outside the OSB with caulk all around and one of the tapes I saw you use, Tyvek outside of that (you know, belt and suspenders),heavy gauge Certainteed vinyl siding, and R60 cellulose in the attic. The house is over a finished basement so all of the HVAC is down there and there are no ducts in the attic other than 2 bath exhausts. I forget the calculations on the sq/ft of south facing glass but it's just a little more than normal and under a 30" overhang. Sketchup helped me guestimate the size of the overhang to get the sun to start peeking in the windows in mid August and end in March I think. If the sun is out in December, the heat doesn't run from about 11am until around 3 or 4pm even at 25 degrees outside and the temp inside gets a couple of degrees above the thermostat set temp. It took a lot of education and convincing of my builder that the house wasn't going to rot. We jointly figured out how to frame out the casement windows and doors to accommodate the foam. Even our lumber supplier got in on an argument about house wrap. And I went around a bit with their Tyvek rep too. By the time we were finished, our builder was trying to hide his favorable impression of the way the house was maintaining temperature. We used the Panasonic ERV you mentioned with variable fan speeds for intake and exhaust. It's still working fine but some things do get around the filters. And when outdoor temps are below around 20 f, I get a little condensation on the duct coming from outside just as it enters the ERV. It has some vibration at higher speeds but at the lowest it seems to do it's job and is quiet. We have a single mid grade air to air heat pump. I think it's 3 1/2 ton. I think you pointed me to Cool Calc and it projected 2 1/2 tons. That would have been a little small. With 2 years of experience, I'm glad have a 3 1/2 ton. Rheem marathon water heater. 3,450 total sq/ft all electric. Average electric usage would be around $98 if we paid for it at 9.4 cents per kwh. We have just enough grid tied solar power to keep us in credit all year. What prompted me to comment was your humbleness to show us your mistakes and help others avoid the same problems. Thank you for helping educate me on some important topics before we built.
Let me say from professional experience, ALL vinyl windows will deform but mostly only due to install. I have dealt with older inferior brands that had inherent warping issues but those were not installed properly and that compounded the issue. When modern quality Vinyl windows are properly installed and supported at key points (where glass weight is the most) the frames will never twist, roll, bend or deform in any other way. The proper install, that includes exterior blocking and interior shimming, is part of AAMA guidelines for all window installation. It’s not asking the installers to do anything additional. It’s only viewed as additional since many installers and builders have no idea on all the steps that they should be following with window installs, regardless of what material they are made from. I have been part of testing where we built a mock up of free standing walls and installed windows with correct and incorrect install procedures. These were exposed to severe elements over a year’s time. The properly blocked, shimmed and screwed off window, stayed true. The improperly installed window bowed along the entire bottom frame and showed other deformations. There was “rolling” of the bottom frame, where large center glass sat. Large glass sits with great pressure at only two points where the glass setting blocks contacted the glass and sill frame. There needs to be exterior blocking under the window frame at these two locations to prevent that rolling out of the frame. If you look at most Vinyl cross sections of window frames (especially thin profile series), the large stationary glass is either half or fully cantilevered outside the supported of the structure of the rough opening. This is quickly overlooked once any type of final exterior building envelope is installed as that one inch or more that the window frame sticks out past the support from the rough opening is padded out by stucco or siding. Just take a look at a window when it is first installed and note how that glass weight is cantilevered out. Any final exterior siding or stucco is never to touch the exterior of the window frame and a 1/4” gap is usually advised to keep all the way around the perimeter of the window frame. Without exterior blocking the exterior of the frame will sag down to the point it touches the siding or stucco and usually at key pressure points. These points are near the far left and right of large glass portions and at the far right and left if the window frames overall. Sometimes it is at the “T” bars the dissect the windows in half or thirds depending of the window configuration. I can’t say enough about blocking at those outside pressure points, as well as supporting the interior sill with shims at its pressure points. Since the window should never sit directly on the interior rough opening, it must be raised a 1/4” and supported with composite shims that you ensure are never removed throughout the building process. Interior side shimming is also important to make the vertical frame of the windows are made solid and plumb. No window, metal wood or vinyl, is a structural member on its own. All windows need to be installed in a manner to make it part of the structure to give it its lasting rigidity to last the life of the home.
So what you are saying is...vinyl frame windows have known flaws(that should have been addressed decades ago) that do not effect other more well built windows, so in the standard build process, some steps that are normally and routinely skipped with better built windows, must be taken to ensure this flimsy trashy cheap vinyl window is not crushed by it's own weight....got it. Thanks.
As a long time designer and builder, I can tell you that the landscape for "admitting mistakes" has changed dramatically over the last half century. This is Matt's best video in months, but anyone in his or my position who provides any leverage to a liability lawyer is cutting their own throat. The presentation here is pretty benign in that regard, however, and not going to cause Matt any problems. In Colorado, a homeowner is allowed to file suit on any hidden construction defects found during the seven years following completion of the project. I recently completed an $80k leak repair for a client that recovered from the prior owner for "failure to disclose"(with another $20K in fees to the lawyer who obtained the settlement). The core problems had existed from the original construction, 8 years earlier, but the prior owner had failed to file on the builder, did a coverup and tried to slip away unnoticed. Ouch.
Matt, youre a class act. No other "host" of just about any home remodeling show/channel would never go through their list of faults on their own house. As I watched, I thought of my own personal list on my own house. We all have budgets and have to "stretch" our dollars. We mean well at the time but it comes back to haunt us at some point. Great video showing us all youre just as human as us. Thanks keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for your honest and personal review of your "what I did wrong" video. We recently did some kitchen upgrades with new appliances, LVL floors and granite countertop. The one thing we did wrong is the 2 hole kitchen sink and the contractor used the wrong caulk under that. I must say that we have had nothing but outstanding customer assistance from even after a year.
I agree with many other posters, your humbleness and attitude while sharing your experiences is appreciated and helps us all in many ways. We moved out of Texas to Florida last year and I had dealt with many of the exact same issues in our 1980 built Texas home by Lake Conroe. When I tackled many issues I listened to what many of the "experts" (salesmen) told me then made my own decisions. A lot of that resonates with me. We replaced all our light swishes with those fancy looking ones then when they broke or had to replace them they were no longer made and we couldn't match them. For the environmentals, actually my A/C guy was the best source for many of my decisions (I had a real good one). I removed the powered attic fan and I ended up closed cell foaming (professionally done) the underside of the roof decking instead of replacing the roof with a radiant barrier decking, came out quicker and cheaper. Even though I didn't seal the attic space, I left it vented and I ended up with an ambient temperature attic that was much much quieter than before and I could still walk around and store things. I replaced the original builder spec single pane windows with low end vinyl double pane, double hung. They leaked air but made a noticeable difference in radiant heat into the sun facing rooms and also much quieter, but to do it over I should've gone with higher quality fiberglass as you suggested. I had the typical A/C problem you mentioned, namely too much humidity with an oversized condenser so I added an attic dehumidifier like yours in the video. That was a mixed bag, it made the house much more tolerable due to lower humidity but added so much additional heat to the upstairs that the A/C cycled constantly and drove my electric bill higher negating the savings from the foamed attic and double pane windows. There was no practical way to seal all the air leaks from an old house like that but we did the best we could. When we did the kitchen we used all high end appliances and plumbing and those ran flawless for the 10 years before we moved, but all the local big box store plumbing we used in all the bathrooms had to be replaced more than once due to corrosion or failure. One thing missing out of your video is discussion of what the family thought of some of your issues, making the home more livable and comfortable is also has importance that can impact your decision as it's not always just about money or efficiency. This video sure brought back all those decisions and mistakes that I hope to do better the next time and I would highly recommend anyone that watches to take to heart what you're saying, it's all true! Thanks again!
If by chance you want to learn more about blown in attic insulation I have a new channel up. I'm an honest hard working attic insulator and complete about 3 homes each day.
Smart things: added ethernet to the whole house before finishing the basement, added an attic antenna, used 5/8” drywall, hot and cold water spigot in garage, solid core doors. Dumb things: MDF trim with kids, didn’t use Safe and Sound in the bathroom/laundry room walls. I love these videos Matt. Keep doing excellent work.
PVC outdoor trim (Doesn't rot), Fiber Cement Siding Lots of exterior lighting recessed lighting through out the home, Lamps never deliver enough light where you really need them. Exterior insulation (Continuous thermal break)
@mjncad FWIW: I think your better off just running Cat6a cabling & RG-6 Quad. This type of cabling is too stiff to run through datacomm conduit. Seems unlikely that you would need anything more than 10 Gbit Ethernet. Just pull a pair of Cat6a for each drop to make sure you have enough. I would recommend using shielded Cabling to avoid noise and possible damage if you have a nearby lightning strike. Also for Wifi ceiling install i would recommend cat6 since it will be difficult to connect to a Ceiling mount Wifi with Cat6a since the cable is very stiff an bulky. Real world Wifi is limited to about 1 Gbit since there is limited bandwidth for 2.4Ghz & 5 Ghz bands. If your home is fully hardwired than you likely only be using Wifi for mobile devices like tablets & smartphones, and guests.
29 years in on my build and am still happy with the 14 months I took off work to build my home [ my wife worked so that we could eat]. My father had just retired and we traveled 50 miles 6 days a week to work on the house. Best memories going from father/son to father/friend(son). He’s gone now but still remember the good times and a few discussions (sometimes heated about details) we had along the way. Some things that I would have done differently; install a rain screen behind my prestained cedar clapboard siding, now have to reside half of my house, should have listened to Norm Abram. the list is to extensive but most of the changes would have been esthetics as opposed to quality. Thanks for the great video
Great video, Matt. Appreciate your humility and honesty in sharing the mistakes (we all make ‘em!). Am renovating a 100-year-old house and the first thing I did was install a Bosch ducted inverter HVAC with a Nest thermostat on each zone). Highly recommend it... quiet, variable-speed comfort and very efficient, especially with careful setting of the thermostats. I also replaced an ancient, conventional gas tank-hot-water heater with a Rinnai tankless water heater, and I love it as well. Not constantly heating a huge tank of water is saving many dollars. The real savings, however, have come from open-cell foam on the underside of the attic roof, and I completely feel your pain regarding your attic-located ducts having to overcome 150º heat in the summer and freezing temps in winter. There’s also the sense of stillness that comes from having the attic completely sealed, not unlike the sensation when a foot of snow falls on the roof. Without that substantial convection, everything gets completely still because there’s no longer a draft pulling cold, damp air into the house from the basement. That’s a huge difference and was shocking to experience immediately after the foam guys finished. Anyway.... so many good tips in this video for a guy like me!!! Thanks so much for your integrity and clarity!
Great stuff. I must add one comment though. Often I would much rather see people cheap out on faucets and counter tops in the beginning and make sure that the hidden infrastructure is done correctly (plumbing/electrical/HVAC/Air sealing/Insulation). Though not cheap cheap it is much cheaper to replace a faucet and a counter top than to rip everything apart to do the basics correctly again. I see all too often people spending big $$ on the glitz and then cheap out on the infrastructure. There is a balance.
Marching through that list now in my 1965 ranch that still looks like 1965 on the inside. Lucky for us the previous owners really kept up with regular maintenance but insulation, electrical, and plumbing are all dated and needed replaced. It sucks to do a ton of work you don't really get to see but it will make remodeling so much easier once the "guts" are all up to date.
Amen. We're repairing our home from hurricane Michael. We're trying hard to not skimp on structure, redoing electrical, plumbing, roof, insulation and siding. Most of that stuff I consider cosmetic and things you might want to update after 10 years anyways.
That is exactly what I did to my home during a full gut rehab. Put the money into whats behind the walls, and the superficial faucets, vanities etc can easily be replaced at a later date if need be. Not enough people realize or think of this, hence the saying...caulk and paint make it what it aint!
Great Point! I wish they would stress this point on the home remodel shows that usually just try to make a room pretty. If the homeowner understands how/why etc, I know I would make different choices. It sounds like one could do projects in stages better too once the infrastructure is tight....
@@jewlzt7331 Lol, many of the pipes and some wiring in my house (over 100 years old) is still in it. It does need updating and I need to make sure a filter is installed for the incoming water supply so sand does not clog in elbows etc again. I call myself lucky in that respect (and shows they 'don't make it like they used to').....
Agreed - excellent presentation - concise and meaningful answers to what worked well and what didn't. Would be interesting to see the total cost of ownership of a Sub-Zero fridge over 30 years though. As much as I hate the fact that so many appliances can't be repaired due to non availability of spare parts I think that some improvements in modern appliances - such as quietness, zoning and timers - should be considered as well as operating cost / life span. I do however have a soft spot for my Japanese made Engel 40 litre 230V / 12V fridge freezer. Purchased in 1980 and survived years of travelling in rough country in the back of a tray back LandCruiser. It has been dropped numerous times, has been exposed to the rain, heat & dust of Northern Australia. For the past 5 years it has sat in my garage running in freezer mode and if it cost me $10 a week for electricity I'd still run it. I'll probably die before it does!
Hi Matt! Nice tour. Thanks. I'd say that as far as "dumb" things, I'd say this. It's a lot about prioritizing the budget at the start of a project. Pay more for the things that will be harder to upgrade in the future. It's okay to go with cheaper faucets or appliances. Those are easy to replace in a few years when there's a bit of money in the savings account again. But go all out on things like insulation, windows, good quality labor, etc. There's always a temptation to put the money into the fancy finishes, but too often it's just lipstick on a pig.
But PLAN your design around better appliances if you REALLY are going to do that. Hard to make space for a commercial range when your cabinetry is designed around a typical 30" . Buy the commercial range and hood. Have the hood vent fan installed outside or in the attic. These are changes that are nearly impossible to do later. Wire your cabinets with outlets or just put in under cabinet lighting. It makes a big difference. Wire for fans, lights, put a pvc conduit from basement to attic for future use... Put a conduit under the driveway (think dog fence, cable, whatever) conduit under walkways, patio... run a gas line out for a future grill, perhaps a future back-up generator... Have a sub panel wired with essential circuits for a generator... Again, easy to do when building, more expensive later... See if you can get a separate water meter for outside water so you don't pay sewer for irrigation... Install a 400 amp service, bring in the largest gas line you can... DO NOT USE CSST GAS LINE, and if you must, don't use yellow, use the black... :) Always cheapest to do it when building... and try not to make changes once you start... changes are expensive...
@@horscategorie Also, make at least the entry level wheelchair accessible. In Australia 60% of households will have someone need that at some stage, and stuff like wider doors and level entries are also great for moving furniture or a baby in a pram. Then if you've got, for example, a kid with a nasty broken leg that they're in a chair while it heals, or even someone on crutches, or someone having mobility issues while pregnant, or you just live there long enough to get old and frail ... making a house accessible after the fact can cost 22 times as much as building it in from the design.
Man I’ve been rebuilding an old desert house for my wife and me in Joshua Tree California and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone through your videos for help and education. It literally wouldn’t be the same house if you hadn’t put these videos up. From products like the Prosoco and Carlisle stuff to the perfect wall theory and on and on. Thanks for confirming that I was right about PVC windows and concrete countertops. Best of luck to y’all.
I dream of the day I can do a new-build with sealed exterior walls! I was glad to see Matt is very pleased with the usage and wear on his Formica countertops where he did install. I leave good-quality Formica countertops alone. No need to spend more!
thanks, Matt, for supplying your wife's website. We definitely need more sanity when understanding COVID-19, and the good doctor explanations are oriented towards lay people. Her explanation for needing to start school in the fall are well documented and explained.
This is my favorite episode! Since I'm not building a new house, but remodeling an old house, getting an honest review of choices made is invaluable. Thanks for that. PS, specifically, was thinking of concrete countertops! Also, you nailed it with cheap appliances and plumbing fixtures. Don't do it! And don't ask me how I know! Thanks again.
Matt! I'm one of your subscribers and a big fan. Indeed, you are making ice cream in an oven, in your attic. You can improve your "attic disappointment" inexpensively by installing a radiant barrier SUB RAFTER. But you'll need ridge ventilation and copious eave air intake... to promote laminar natural air flow. I have done this (in my garage, and soon in my attic which was re-roofed in 2018, compliant to Title 24) in sunny SoCal (Yeah, it's drier here, admittedly) but you can do this too. Caveat: Rats will take refuge above that barrier; they don't mind the infernal temperatures, so rat proofing is mandatory.
Smart: insulating my basement, including the rimjoist with foam. My floors are nice and warm, even on -40 degree days. Dumb: not having the wiring redone before insulating the ceilings
35 years tileman here. Don't do an all Schlooter shower (IMO, there are some exceptions.). Mud set is still best but for your water problem you can use a water proof membrane to set over the float. Non-porous tile is a smart move for the shower of course. The new grouts will also go a long way to reducing water retention. You have shared some great info on your channel so I'm happy to share any of my knowledge with you. Just ask. I've got roman tubs out there that are 20+ years old and still look new, don't chill the water and stay warm a half hour after they are emptied... and went through the Northridge earthquake.
Thank You, Matt, for your HONESTY and your eagerness to teach us who are willing to learn!!! So many people in Construction are unwilling to learn and are so hard-headed when it comes to accepting real science! Please keep up the Risinger style -- you are the best!!! And I still say the Metal Frames for the window overhangs... SHOULD HAVE BEEN POWDER-COATED!
We're looking to build a new home in the near future. We're keeping a running tally of what we want and what we do not want. Videos like this are invaluable. Love the magic corners.
Assuming you’re not a designer yourself, hire one! A good interior designer (not decorator) is worth their weight in gold. They will make all the hard decisions you go back and forth on. They will tell you what’s functional and what’s not. They will find you all the quality fixtures and materials that the average consumer cannot (only “to the trade”). And most importantly, they will be that fresh pair of eyes when they’re needed the most. Disclaimer: I am a designer
Don't forget to plan for your WiFi access points! I'd recommend 1 per bedroom as well as good coverage in the common areas. Also, consider backyard coverage if you will have a patio or pool. Check out Ubiquiti's UniFi system -- it is high quality and reasonably priced.
Instead of a expen$ive mechanical kitchen corner cabinet pull out do this. Put in a 45 degree cabinet with a high quality Lazy Susan. You will love the additional corner counter space and open the door spin to what you want, take it out & close the door. Reverse process to put it back. No complicated tracks, shelves to pull out and put back in. A huge time saver.
This makes me feel pretty good about 15 years ago me. I haven’t replaced any of the major appliances or plumbing fixtures I built into my house. I have Subzero and Kohler including Kohler commercial faucets and they’re perfect. I stayed on budget by getting these items on off-display clearance. I also got Corian countertop material from a salvage place leftover from somebody who just had to have granite. And I used porcelain tile. I guess this is what I get for being in my late 30s when I built my house. I already knew.
Good stuff Matt, My grandparents modeled an old Victorian in 1952, adding a Subzero refrigerator. I remember talking with my grandfather about 1990, he stating that was the original Subzero, still looking like new and he replaced the compressor once. Appliance 'lifecycle' is very important in the housing industry.
Thanks for the note on kitchen concrete countertops. I was actually considering this. We live in a half done kitchen because we both have ADHD and can’t stick to one project lol. Have the countertop tiled in one area. The grout is a pain in the butt. Thinking of just forking out the money for solid surface countertops. Easy maintenance.
This vid was so relatable and so enjoyable. Matt is just like us after all! Great to see how matt grappled with compromise and balance over the years just like we have to when tackling our own house projects!
I can’t even imagine the number of people these videos will help for making smarter and better decisions when remodeling their homes. We need more people like you in the world who will teach us what works and more importantly what doesn’t work!!!! Thank you so much Matt!!!
I am a newer homeowner, also with a 1970s built home. I love that you are sharing your mistakes and successes with us. I am always trying to find what is going to be the best for my family. Also, I have my pet peeves in my industry, but I love that you've shared yours as well so we can learn. Thank you Matt!
Sometimes This Old House will go through a prior remodel and numerous things that failed will be pointed out. I learned not to go with the "latest and greatest" but the tried and true.
That could be a real easy and quick TH-cam format: interviewing others in their homes years after a remodel or build. Call it "Smart & Dumb" or "Succeed & Fail". I'm sure there would be many many volunteers.
Yes please.... Even better a builders anonymous video... names and addresses are hidden but it’s the builder talking about there own home... talk about a honest interview.... that’s TH-cam cash in the bank right there!
I really love the fact you talk about mistakes, I've made many of the same ones about the same time. I did put in quartz counters in 2005 - love them. No sealing, easy to clean, just don't set your coffee on it unless you want it to cool off quickly. Sub Zero - installed 6 years ago and will never put in another refrigerator. Went on vacation for a week and a half and the opened spinach was still crispy and fresh. Vinyl windows, same issues in Montana. Southern exposure windows deformed over time. However, the insulating quality of vinyl in winter was a huge gain over wood.
Great video Matt! Your candor is a breath of fresh air. As a remodeler and having a decorative concrete business, your first one cut me deep. The concrete in the kitchen is unfortunate. The industry has come a VERY long way in the last 14 years. Concrete will always be "porous", but good quality mixes are extremely dense. That and much better sealers should provide years of service in a family kitchen without the need to reseal multiple times a year. Keep up the great work.
Big fan for a couple years now ... this is one of the most helpful videos you've done for everyday design problems. The plumbing fixture comments were the most helpful. Thanks so much for this, Matt!
Two things I regretted when I built my place in 04 was MDF skirting boards plus trims and cheap aluminium double glazed windows, we swapped out for German upvc windows with gel coated hardwood trims WOW what difference.. Love your work mate, cheers from Tasmania
GRIFFS REARMOUNT TURBO, The Modfather any details on the windows ie what brand/company that makes them? Really hating the condensation in the Sydney winter right now on my single pane aluminium esp now I have a kid and leave the humidifier on in his room at night.
Awesome vid. Matt you seem so honest and a builder showing his mistakes makes feel you are one of us and not a builder that will "get" over on your customers.
Thanks for being humble, it's great to see someone admit we builders/remodelers never know everything about everything, but we are always trying to learn and provide the best product for our customers. Stay blessed bro.
Matt I did concrete countertops and sealed it with bar grade epoxy. Hardens, added a cutout for a replaceable cutting board. Ran a waterline directly to my Keurig machine. Thought about it for a year before doing it.
cool that you can admit when some of you best plans flop . I found out the hard way that hollow core doors really do not stand up to kids very well , but the biggest disappointment is that they just do not slam well .
All About Spelling Curriculum! A Favorite. I’ve enjoyed your series. Architecture Major/Intern Architect turned stay at home Homeschool Mom for the past 22 years. Thanks for teaching me so many new industry concepts.
Error: those kitchen cabinet handles: Catch your pockets and pjs, costs you clothing. Ask me how I know. When you have one of those touch faucets, you touch other people's faucets and wonder why they don't turn on or off. Ask me how I know.
Now I understand. Our Boy Matt embraced rule #1 before going into business for himself. Make sure your wife has a good job. Complete with medical coverage.
one of my big disappointments with new dishwashers is that they don't have heating elements anymore. sure, no more burnt plastic lids, but now some items are still wet.
@@Shadi2 And the manufacture tells you to turn the hot water temp up so your dishes dry.... then the hot water manufacture tells you to turn it down to save energy??? lmao
Hurray! That's more of the whole picture in sustainability. When you actually look at the entire chain of events that got the dishwasher in the house, the energy used by it isn't as important, especially if you can make your own. Then the most ignored stage of the chain is the throw away part. These mountains of 'rubbish' are scary.
This video has been so informative. I'm a house cleaner and I run across a lot of the same issues that you have described in your video bad and good . Thank you for your honesty. It helps when shopping for a new home.
Thanks Matt, enjoying your videos. Just about to step into a kitchen remodel on a 1974 ranch. Dumb things: skimped on electric in bathroom remodel; put in mdf baseboards that time, dogs and kids have not been kind to; forgot to put in a water supply by a new fridge in downstairs bar area. Cool things: bamboo floors replacing carpet; exterior electric sockets; retrofit to smart lighting/switches. Cool things with the house is that original builder put in 2 electric circuits to supply the kitchen plugs, so there is a top circuit and a bottom circuit. We also have pocket doors in all interiors doors except the bathrooms.
You can add an in line air scrubber with a UV cleaner to your HVAC system if you don't want it in your hallway. We did that when we had our HVAC replaced.
One of the things I’ve seen doing repair and remodels the last few years: every penny you save by buying sub-exemplary materials will cost you $1000s in the end. Thank you for sharing your remodel tips!
This was the first video of yours to cross my path. It is the best video I have ever seen for remodeling educational purposes. It’s nice to learn how to do things the right way. What I don’t find very often is learning how to make the right decisions from the beginning. You point out your mistakes in past decisions AND offer what choice you should have made - very helpful. NOW - you’re going to find this odd but a very small/minor detail you mentioned that resonated with me was your hard water issue... I’d like to learn more about how you attack that problem throughout your house. You briefly mentioned in the video (11min 31 seconds) how your wife does not want a water softener... I respect that decision but I have no clue WHY that’s her decision. I’d love for you to elaborate on that. My BIGGEST lesson: No concrete countertops in the kitchen! Thank You
Matt: I really appreciate your willingness to experiment, provide backstory and be brutally honest about what worked, what didn’t and why. Home construction is a huge investment. Perhaps some of these things shouldn’t be considered “mistakes” but full scale in-service mock-ups that we can all learn from. You doing a concrete countertop in YOUR kitchen may have saved your business thousands in call-backs on other projects. Couldn’t agree more on plumbing fixtures and appliances. Thanks for sharing
I've learned a few things after building my first house. 1) as much as fad stuff is cool - keep it simple. 2) as much as you wanna build stuff that YOU like. Think about what 80% of people would like and incorporate that into your idea (for resale) 3) white, is a timeless color. Can't go wrong when in doubt. 4)buy once, cry once. This goes for appliances, counters (I did quartz, hate granite) flooring etc. High end products always outlast the cheap stuff unless its something very, very easy to replace.
After buying, remodeling/ ground up build and selling 4 homes over the last 15 years don't build a house for someone else if it is for you. Build what you want and if you make it look nice it will sale. This is all assuming your not crazy.
@@tysleight We're on this line of thought except we are not planning on selling anything but using them as residual income for future generations. We do mostly what we like plus durability (e.g why do ppl put in cheap toilets, those are always a nightmare, soft close hinges save cabinet finishes, tile shower outlast a million to one a acrylic shower, durable washable paint over the bargain bucket)
Trevn Ti I believe that upfront costs tend to frighten people, especially when they’re shelling out thousands of dollars a month on a mortgage payment. However, if you shop according to quality rather than price tag, you’d be surprised at how much you’ll end up saving in the long run by not having to replace that fixture/appliance/whatever within five years.
Thanks Matt for the confessions of a builder. I built my own home over 30 years ago and similarly did many great things and a few I would change. Like you, I had a limited budget and used mid grade faucets and appliances. With my budget, it was what I could afford. But now, 30 years later, I've replaced my dishwasher 3 times and am looking for a strong long lasting unit. On the good side, I used 2x6 exterior walls with 1" foam on the outside and cold side venting. My walls are about R25. I meticulously caulked all foam seams and transitions and then even applied Tyvek building paper. On the vaulted ceilings there is a minimum of R38 fiberglass insulation and in the truss areas it is even higher. Super tight house. With about 6,000 square feet of living area, my heating bill is about $150 and my A/C is around $200. The home is located on a hill over looking a valley of the family farm. I have a walk out basement with a single car garage for my workshop. So nice to do an oil change in a heated garage or open a garage door to load or move out projects. If you ever want to stop in, I'd love to meet you. I'm about 50 miles west of Chicago. The next big project I'd love to do is to add solar. I have an enormous amount of southern facing roof. Oh, and my raised deck is 20 x 26 and also looks south over the valley. The deck uses 3 steel beams spanning the 26 foot width providing a 3 car shaded deck for the lower walkout. Very nice. Thanks for the videos, it was fun for me to review my own build process as you review different jobs.
Wow, I'm glad i watched this. We bought a 70s fixer upper house last january and then covid hit- the costs have doubled and tripled on things so im always looking for ways to save money- you saved me from putting in concrete kitchen countertop and getting a cheapo bathroom faucet. Im also putting in LEDs and have window and attic issues....your video was super informative for me- thank you so much! And im also removing popcorn, skim coating crappy textured bathroom walls, etc etc...oh, and checking out window replacements. We're in Nevada so the tip about vinyl stopped me from another mistake!
Funny, my COVID project was to replace those damn concrete counters I feel for 10 years ago too with the quartz I should have done. The new quartz countertops with the single bowl Blanco sink and Brizo faucet look fantastic. Thanks for sharing.
I so love your channel !! I'm a retired high end custom home builder from Scottsdale/ Paradise Valley AZ. Once you were a builder it never gets out of your soul !!! Thank You !!!!
Thx, great video! Love my corian counters w/SEAMLESS sink; magic corner, fold out pantry, pull out cupbiards, warming oven. Goof up in amother remodel: dark bronze CURVED stylestone (quartz blend) - shows hard water spots, can't get color back. Plus - Curved = GRANITE COUNTER custom cut for sink. Big $$ mistake! Thx for other video on windows. Had bought house in FL w/single pane windows. , Decided to seal up w/foam backer rods instead of replace for $15K plus grief of repainting patchwork outside & in 14 windows! Another proj was replcmnt fence around pool - vinyl kept blowing over in heavy storms, panels are like 'wind sails' Should have opted for cyclone & worried about privacy later. Also replaced shingle roof w/ metal. Only $5k more & no worries for 40yrs. Keep up good work on videos!! I'll check out the wife's channel, too. Thx for the real stuff & for sharing!
"Who wants a countertop you have to reseal every year". Funny you say that, since you were seemingly excited about the limestone indoor/outdoor flooring in your last video, where you said the homeowner would have to reseal every two years. And that was an entire house, not just a countertop!
Good point. I think the difference is a certain level of wealth. At some point, maybe looks and luxury become more important, as maintenance work is easily hired.
Good video Matt. I totally agree regarding your statement about the vinyl windows. The front of my house faces due south and gets full sun every day. The seal on every window on the front has failed except one (it gets shade from a small tree in the afternoon). The Palladium window over my front door has had a seal failure 4 times! And when I had the windows replaced I had Low E glass used. Big mistake. It burns lines in my grass in late summer and it has distorted the trim around my wife’s car windows. Next time I will have a dark tint film put on the glass exterior. And I can relate to the attic and plumbing issues. I have been upgrading plumbing fixtures as the issues pop up. Had to replace a tub/shower valve recently and had to install a access panel and replace the valve from the back side. Luckily it was in the water closet behind the door. I didn’t want to tear the tile off to repair it. Ron
Greater love has no one than this, that someone lay down his life for his friends. Yet you also first lay yours down for your family, esp. that baby girl of yours. That speaks volumes to me as someone dealing w./ asthma.
I appreciate the fact that you have exposed your own mis-steps during your remodel. It will certainly help my wife and I make decisions for our remodel projects as we go. Thanks!
When I built my house we asked how many times we wanted to redo something and then spent the money on higher quality material. I was my own general contractor and was at the house every day all day and fortunately I know something about construction and stipulated materials and methods before I started. I also listened to subs I felt had my interests at heart and used their knowledge. I love the way my house turned out.
I really appreciate the insight about the concrete counter tops. I was ready to install them in my new build and this video has convinced me to not use them. And side note...I'd still hire you for a GC position on an ICF LEEDS residential build in NC. Let me know Matt...I've watched your channel for years.
Wouldn't it be necessary to increase the floor joists under the kitchen or step up to the next size in dimensional lumber to sustain the extra weight of concrete or granite for that matter?
@@klmbuilders5385 We installed granite on an 11-foot long island that was 3.5 feet wide. No extra bracing needed. The house is 40 years old. So far, we haven't fallen into the basement!
Sis-in-law had bro do concrete counter top in bsmnt bar, took a bunch of buds to even lift it & drag it in! Then many coats of sealer. Concrete, not much character - goes outside in front of my garage, right? Lol, not my taste...
Got rid of the split sink.. last Reno. Best ever. The little disposal side just was a junk collector. Now everything goes through disposal.. keeps it cleaner because of this also.
For heat and a/c: Check out the UniCo System! The duct sizes are very small as it’s a pressurized system. Very quiet, most cases one(1) return centrally located. I run the duct (main is 9” round) in a soffit so the entire system is in the conditioned space. I had an architect in Greenwich CT. show it to me in the late 80’s for Historic Renovation work. I’ve used ever since. I’m always shocked that contractors don’t know about it. There are a few proprietary tools and a short learning curve but not any more than the switch over to PEX. The best system hands down. You’ll be glad you found it. Thank for getting good info out. Cheers Hammer Hardesty North Yarmouth, Maine & Charlotte N.C.
Matt, I really appreciate your integrity, as demonstrated by this video. Your mistakes have become solid learning points for anyone considering remodeling. Thank you!
A couple of comments Kitchen counter: I was thinking that Caesar Stone quartz was impervious to everything and I was wrong. Quartz itself does a good job but the resin that binds it does not and ages with time, temperature and chemicals. So a white counter ends up with a yellowish color. It can be fixed by polishing and removing that layer. I'd still put it as I don't like the other options Secret doors: It is no more secret when your fingerprints gets all over the painted push zone. I'd rather have some metal plate where to push to open Cabinets: when cabinets have sliding shelves, the cabinet door should slide with the shelf rather than pivot on hinges. You can see that in the later case you scratch the door interior face when not fully open and operates the shelf, and that happens Water softener: a must have. there is no appliance that can last with hardness. Use Potassium rather than Sodium for healthier choice Design: besides lasting forever a bathroom cabinet should have an elegant design, but it depends on everyone's taste
For countertops, look into sintered stone options. Sintering is heat + pressure, without the polymers. Brands like Neolith and Lapitec. These are sometimes mistakenly called porcelain countertops because the process is similar in how it is made. Do you have an example of your pullout shelf door combination? It sounds good.
This is lovely Matt, showing us what does work and what not explaining why is excellent. Would like to see more of these think over reviews. These practical reviews help to make my own decisions and finding what is best. I didn't know about the Hafele magic corner and why concrete countertops are not for the kitchen. Vinyl doors and windows are prone to brake ins as well. Hope Dr. Christy will sponsor you more for this kind of content.
I have to keep my dishwasher filled with rinse-aid or else the dishes start to smell bad as they dry. City water. No salt compartment though. Not even on our 2018 Bosch in a recent home. Most folks around here with hard water (home or shared well) have home water-softener systems.
I’ve honestly never even heard of such a thing... seems smart though! I think a whole house water softener is a must have especially in most of Texas but I guess this is a good alternative! What kind of salt do you fill it with and how often? Thanks
Culligan Water makes a salt free whole house conditioner if your wife would go that route. Also they have a High Efficiency one that reduces the amount of flushing water if that is her concern.
Enjoyed the pluses & minuses of remodeling. We all will get it right on the next one. Schluter seems to have the better waterproofing system for showers but even they have had failures. Need perfect installations it seems. Also with super tight houses, you have to consider indoor air exchanges, filtration & heat/cool exchanges to get more passive conditions. Stretch those dollars with even more planning.
This is great. I remodeled in 2009, not knowing anything but wanting to be more energy efficient and "green." I found someone who did a plant-based spray foam, which is great, except that they weren't very good at it, so lots of gaps along the studs. I also apparently skimped on faucets, basically from not understanding what makes one better than another. I did a soapstone kitchen counter and I'm really pleased with that. It's soft, so I've had a few scrapes, but it's dense and natural and just looks good even now. Other most dumb thing was not finding a builder who knew about modern materials and techniques. I used wood ibeams in the floor and I found the builder putting pieces of plywood in them to make them more rigid. Geez. I should've changed the crew right then, but cost and time and a marriage required me to go on.
Appreciate your honesty, although I have to argue about vinyl windows. Perhaps it depends on your location and the quality. I've had them in three different houses for replacement windows and have loved them each time. Midwest location, so probably not as hot as Texas. Agree about the hardwood floors - they're top notch. And sorry - I'll never be sucked into concrete counters. They're just plain ugly. I have granite with a ten-year finish on it. I've had it five years and so far I've never had to do anything to it.
Love the video and love your channel ! Thanks for sharing some of your mistakes. It is true that you learn more from mistakes than from successes. Lord knows I've made my share of bad ones. You know the ultimate Build show is to have you over for a bourbon and have you go through my house and tell me what to change and all the best new stuff to install. There is no way you could do that for every viewer but you doing videos like this get very close. Please do more of this type of video where you go through normal average American homes and teach us how to improve our "quality of life". You do a fantastic job and are a excellent communicator ! Thank you.
We just finished a complete renovation in our 1950's Ranch home, and now we're moving due to covid-19. I would do it all again; the mistakes taught me so much. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for a lovely video, I've never regretted having a Miele washing machine, having just replaced my first one after 22 years, with another Miele. I did ruin my Miele dishwasher though, by using it without filling the salt dispenser, so it conked out after 5 years. I now have a Siemens, and make jolly sure I keep the salt filled, 12 years on, all still good. Hardly anyone in the UK has a water softener, so we need salt in the dishwashers, I didn't realise any were made without salt containers? I never liked the idea of concrete worktops so I had iroko, and 20 years on, it looks as good as new. I always use a wooden board to actually cut on, and re oil the worktop approx every 5 years with Linseed oil, then just wipe with fairy liquid (Dawn I believe in U.S.) which incidentally will also seal those marble tile floors. I have those tiles on my kitchen floor, sealed with linseed oil, 20 years ago, and still looking as good as they did when laid, no stains or marks. Reoiled once about 10 or 12 years ago, and from current appearence, may never need to do again? Four children, large dog, tortoise, and 3 cats, so plenty of wear...Thanks again for informative video, very helpful :)
Hey Matt, If you had it to do over again, how would you approach the re-insulation of the attic today? I'm in a similar boat and trying to figure out what the ideal approach would be. Spray-in between the rafters? Engineered insulation panels across the back of the rafters? There seem to be a TON of different ways to approach this, and none of them ideal or particularly clear in terms of pros/cons.
He should just wrap batt insulation around those ducts. In a few hours he's got that fixed. I have the same attic setup and that's what I did. Very simply solution as compared to his very expensive solution.
I love this channel. I learn SO MUCH! The (bordering self deprecation, "dumb" ~vs~) honest expression really suits the nature of your person and approach to sharing such vast wisdom. You are real and incredibly candid in everything that you do...
Just started a full remodel on my first house! I'm a diy person not big into construction YET! So glad I found this video and channel! Thanks new sub here!
As a long time designer and builder, I can tell you that the landscape for "admitting mistakes" has changed dramatically over the last half century. This is Matt's best video in months, but anyone in his or my position who provides any leverage to a liability lawyer is cutting their own throat. The presentation here is pretty benign in that regard, however, and not going to cause Matt any problems. In Colorado, a homeowner is allowed to file suit on any hidden construction defects found during the seven years following completion of the project. I recently completed an $80k leak repair for a client that recovered from the prior owner for "failure to disclose"(with another $20K in fees to the lawyer who obtained the settlement). The core problems had existed from the original construction, 8 years earlier, but the prior owner had failed to file on the builder, did a coverup and tried to slip away unnoticed. My clients had a third of the (out-of-level) living room floor covered in a sheet of water the first week after moving in. Not pre-existing?? Ouch.
Re failure to disclose: Years ago, in my neighborhood, this guy put up his house for sale and was considered "such a great guy" because he dropped the price to enable a young couple with a baby to buy it. They moved in and soon baby was sick, then baby and wife. Long story short: The guy had black mold on the walls and floors, so he hired a contractor to cover it up by putting up another layer of drywall and another layer of flooring. Guy and contractor were charged and went to prison. I'm sure couple sued, but don't know what happened there. Can you IMAGINE someone would do that? Bad enough that adults would live there, but a BABY? You'd have to be a sociopath to do something like that.
Fantastic video. I subscribed within the first 3 minutes. Thanks for sharing!! I am currently remodeling and this could not have been more timely. Fortunately the things I've done so far you've categorized as "smart" (higher-end appliances, rocker switches, wood floors) but I can't say my path would have avoided all of the "dumbs". Can't wait to view more of your content. Thanks for adding to the collective intelligence!
Very helpful video! Thank you! I just sold my house last weekend, that I bought in 2006 also. I remodeled the whole thing myself, and I fell into the cheap faucets trap. Big mistake, I agree. I epoxied over my thin granite countertops, and it's been fantastic. Very durable, and 4 years later, they look brand new. You could easially do that to your kitchen countertops.
A quick tip on dishwasher care: you don't need a water softener. Add white vinegar as your rinse agent every load, the vinegar will keep the calcium carbonate and other deposits in solution during the dry cycle.
Matt, this is a phenomenal video, so informative from an experience perspective, would love to hear more like this in a series, maybe from clients? Good stuff!
Not myself personally, but one thing I never see many builders talk about is the role landscaping can play in the efficiency of a house too. My grandfather, in northern Wisconsin, planted pine trees to the west of the house which is where the prevailing winter winds were, and then birch, oak and maple to the south part of the house to give shade in summer from the sun. Then gain that same sun back in fall and winter when the leaves fell. Wind breaks from the winter cold, and shade from the sun made a huge difference in the temperature of the house.
This book is Awesome! I love the Lean-To-Shed the most (page 98). The plan th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR is to attach it to the back of my brick house. I also like how they walk you through the many different steps of construction, which is important for the less experienced like me.
I just watched this on another device. But I had to come to my PC so I could type a thank you note easier.
In 2016 we were planning a new house on about 13 acres out in the sticks. We wanted simple, efficient, open, and not too expensive. We had grand ideas of some contemporary concrete and steel structure, but finding contractors willing and able to do that at reasonable rates was only a dream. I watched just about all of your content back then and gleaned a lot of knowledge that guided some of my more important decisions.
We are in Central Kentucky to give you and idea of our climate. I decided on 2x6 walls, blown in fiberglass in the walls, 2" rigid foam outside the OSB with caulk all around and one of the tapes I saw you use, Tyvek outside of that (you know, belt and suspenders),heavy gauge Certainteed vinyl siding, and R60 cellulose in the attic. The house is over a finished basement so all of the HVAC is down there and there are no ducts in the attic other than 2 bath exhausts. I forget the calculations on the sq/ft of south facing glass but it's just a little more than normal and under a 30" overhang. Sketchup helped me guestimate the size of the overhang to get the sun to start peeking in the windows in mid August and end in March I think. If the sun is out in December, the heat doesn't run from about 11am until around 3 or 4pm even at 25 degrees outside and the temp inside gets a couple of degrees above the thermostat set temp.
It took a lot of education and convincing of my builder that the house wasn't going to rot. We jointly figured out how to frame out the casement windows and doors to accommodate the foam. Even our lumber supplier got in on an argument about house wrap. And I went around a bit with their Tyvek rep too. By the time we were finished, our builder was trying to hide his favorable impression of the way the house was maintaining temperature.
We used the Panasonic ERV you mentioned with variable fan speeds for intake and exhaust. It's still working fine but some things do get around the filters. And when outdoor temps are below around 20 f, I get a little condensation on the duct coming from outside just as it enters the ERV. It has some vibration at higher speeds but at the lowest it seems to do it's job and is quiet.
We have a single mid grade air to air heat pump. I think it's 3 1/2 ton. I think you pointed me to Cool Calc and it projected 2 1/2 tons. That would have been a little small. With 2 years of experience, I'm glad have a 3 1/2 ton. Rheem marathon water heater. 3,450 total sq/ft all electric. Average electric usage would be around $98 if we paid for it at 9.4 cents per kwh. We have just enough grid tied solar power to keep us in credit all year.
What prompted me to comment was your humbleness to show us your mistakes and help others avoid the same problems. Thank you for helping educate me on some important topics before we built.
Let me say from professional experience, ALL vinyl windows will deform but mostly only due to install. I have dealt with older inferior brands that had inherent warping issues but those were not installed properly and that compounded the issue.
When modern quality Vinyl windows are properly installed and supported at key points (where glass weight is the most) the frames will never twist, roll, bend or deform in any other way. The proper install, that includes exterior blocking and interior shimming, is part of AAMA guidelines for all window installation. It’s not asking the installers to do anything additional. It’s only viewed as additional since many installers and builders have no idea on all the steps that they should be following with window installs, regardless of what material they are made from.
I have been part of testing where we built a mock up of free standing walls and installed windows with correct and incorrect install procedures. These were exposed to severe elements over a year’s time. The properly blocked, shimmed and screwed off window, stayed true. The improperly installed window bowed along the entire bottom frame and showed other deformations. There was “rolling” of the bottom frame, where large center glass sat. Large glass sits with great pressure at only two points where the glass setting blocks contacted the glass and sill frame. There needs to be exterior blocking under the window frame at these two locations to prevent that rolling out of the frame. If you look at most Vinyl cross sections of window frames (especially thin profile series), the large stationary glass is either half or fully cantilevered outside the supported of the structure of the rough opening. This is quickly overlooked once any type of final exterior building envelope is installed as that one inch or more that the window frame sticks out past the support from the rough opening is padded out by stucco or siding. Just take a look at a window when it is first installed and note how that glass weight is cantilevered out. Any final exterior siding or stucco is never to touch the exterior of the window frame and a 1/4” gap is usually advised to keep all the way around the perimeter of the window frame. Without exterior blocking the exterior of the frame will sag down to the point it touches the siding or stucco and usually at key pressure points. These points are near the far left and right of large glass portions and at the far right and left if the window frames overall. Sometimes it is at the “T” bars the dissect the windows in half or thirds depending of the window configuration. I can’t say enough about blocking at those outside pressure points, as well as supporting the interior sill with shims at its pressure points. Since the window should never sit directly on the interior rough opening, it must be raised a 1/4” and supported with composite shims that you ensure are never removed throughout the building process. Interior side shimming is also important to make the vertical frame of the windows are made solid and plumb. No window, metal wood or vinyl, is a structural member on its own. All windows need to be installed in a manner to make it part of the structure to give it its lasting rigidity to last the life of the home.
Thanks for your input!
I was thinking the same thing after having just installed some large vinyl windows. All materials expand and contact with temperature.
So what you are saying is...vinyl frame windows have known flaws(that should have been addressed decades ago) that do not effect other more well built windows, so in the standard build process, some steps that are normally and routinely skipped with better built windows, must be taken to ensure this flimsy trashy cheap vinyl window is not crushed by it's own weight....got it. Thanks.
How about those salesmen who measure the windows! 😅😂🤣🙃
I love my double hung vinyl windows. So easy to clean!
What resonates with me is your genuine humility about mistakes.
I agree. For someone who does this for a living admitting some things could be difficult. I love this.
And Matt’s generosity and openness to let us see his own home.
I, too, appreciate your honesty. I've learned so much from your videos and posts. That said, if you decide to sell the house, remove this video! ;)
As a long time designer and builder, I can tell you that the landscape for "admitting mistakes" has changed dramatically over the last half century. This is Matt's best video in months, but anyone in his or my position who provides any leverage to a liability lawyer is cutting their own throat. The presentation here is pretty benign in that regard, however, and not going to cause Matt any problems. In Colorado, a homeowner is allowed to file suit on any hidden construction defects found during the seven years following completion of the project. I recently completed an $80k leak repair for a client that recovered from the prior owner for "failure to disclose"(with another $20K in fees to the lawyer who obtained the settlement). The core problems had existed from the original construction, 8 years earlier, but the prior owner had failed to file on the builder, did a coverup and tried to slip away unnoticed. Ouch.
Why does it resonate with you?
Matt, youre a class act. No other "host" of just about any home remodeling show/channel would never go through their list of faults on their own house. As I watched, I thought of my own personal list on my own house. We all have budgets and have to "stretch" our dollars. We mean well at the time but it comes back to haunt us at some point. Great video showing us all youre just as human as us. Thanks keep up the good work.
Bill Bubnis
I couldn’t agree more. I echo your Thank You
Bill Bubnis, 'would ever' not 'would never.' Sorry, just had to point that out.
Haha. I expect all of them would if it resulted in good content. This vid has already drawn half a million views! That's a nice bit of YT revenue.
Thank you so much for your honest and personal review of your "what I did wrong" video. We recently did some kitchen upgrades with new appliances, LVL floors and granite countertop. The one thing we did wrong is the 2 hole kitchen sink and the contractor used the wrong caulk under that. I must say that we have had nothing but outstanding customer assistance from even after a year.
I agree with many other posters, your humbleness and attitude while sharing your experiences is appreciated and helps us all in many ways. We moved out of Texas to Florida last year and I had dealt with many of the exact same issues in our 1980 built Texas home by Lake Conroe. When I tackled many issues I listened to what many of the "experts" (salesmen) told me then made my own decisions. A lot of that resonates with me. We replaced all our light swishes with those fancy looking ones then when they broke or had to replace them they were no longer made and we couldn't match them. For the environmentals, actually my A/C guy was the best source for many of my decisions (I had a real good one). I removed the powered attic fan and I ended up closed cell foaming (professionally done) the underside of the roof decking instead of replacing the roof with a radiant barrier decking, came out quicker and cheaper. Even though I didn't seal the attic space, I left it vented and I ended up with an ambient temperature attic that was much much quieter than before and I could still walk around and store things. I replaced the original builder spec single pane windows with low end vinyl double pane, double hung. They leaked air but made a noticeable difference in radiant heat into the sun facing rooms and also much quieter, but to do it over I should've gone with higher quality fiberglass as you suggested. I had the typical A/C problem you mentioned, namely too much humidity with an oversized condenser so I added an attic dehumidifier like yours in the video. That was a mixed bag, it made the house much more tolerable due to lower humidity but added so much additional heat to the upstairs that the A/C cycled constantly and drove my electric bill higher negating the savings from the foamed attic and double pane windows. There was no practical way to seal all the air leaks from an old house like that but we did the best we could. When we did the kitchen we used all high end appliances and plumbing and those ran flawless for the 10 years before we moved, but all the local big box store plumbing we used in all the bathrooms had to be replaced more than once due to corrosion or failure. One thing missing out of your video is discussion of what the family thought of some of your issues, making the home more livable and comfortable is also has importance that can impact your decision as it's not always just about money or efficiency. This video sure brought back all those decisions and mistakes that I hope to do better the next time and I would highly recommend anyone that watches to take to heart what you're saying, it's all true! Thanks again!
If by chance you want to learn more about blown in attic insulation I have a new channel up. I'm an honest hard working attic insulator and complete about 3 homes each day.
Smart things: added ethernet to the whole house before finishing the basement, added an attic antenna, used 5/8” drywall, hot and cold water spigot in garage, solid core doors. Dumb things: MDF trim with kids, didn’t use Safe and Sound in the bathroom/laundry room walls. I love these videos Matt. Keep doing excellent work.
PVC outdoor trim (Doesn't rot), Fiber Cement Siding
Lots of exterior lighting
recessed lighting through out the home, Lamps never deliver enough light where you really need them.
Exterior insulation (Continuous thermal break)
@mjncad What do you use the compressed air for in the kitchen and bath?
@mjncad FWIW: I think your better off just running Cat6a cabling & RG-6 Quad. This type of cabling is too stiff to run through datacomm conduit. Seems unlikely that you would need anything more than 10 Gbit Ethernet. Just pull a pair of Cat6a for each drop to make sure you have enough. I would recommend using shielded Cabling to avoid noise and possible damage if you have a nearby lightning strike.
Also for Wifi ceiling install i would recommend cat6 since it will be difficult to connect to a Ceiling mount Wifi with Cat6a since the cable is very stiff an bulky. Real world Wifi is limited to about 1 Gbit since there is limited bandwidth for 2.4Ghz & 5 Ghz bands. If your home is fully hardwired than you likely only be using Wifi for mobile devices like tablets & smartphones, and guests.
@@TheArtificiallyIntelligent Drying things quickly or for drain unclogging.
What benefit did 5/8 drywall give you?
29 years in on my build and am still happy with the 14 months I took off work to build my home [ my wife worked so that we could eat]. My father had just retired and we traveled 50 miles 6 days a week to work on the house. Best memories going from father/son to father/friend(son). He’s gone now but still remember the good times and a few discussions (sometimes heated about details) we had along the way. Some things that I would have done differently; install a rain screen behind my prestained cedar clapboard siding, now have to reside half of my house, should have listened to Norm Abram. the list is to extensive but most of the changes would have been esthetics as opposed to quality. Thanks for the great video
Great video, Matt. Appreciate your humility and honesty in sharing the mistakes (we all make ‘em!). Am renovating a 100-year-old house and the first thing I did was install a Bosch ducted inverter HVAC with a Nest thermostat on each zone). Highly recommend it... quiet, variable-speed comfort and very efficient, especially with careful setting of the thermostats. I also replaced an ancient, conventional gas tank-hot-water heater with a Rinnai tankless water heater, and I love it as well. Not constantly heating a huge tank of water is saving many dollars.
The real savings, however, have come from open-cell foam on the underside of the attic roof, and I completely feel your pain regarding your attic-located ducts having to overcome 150º heat in the summer and freezing temps in winter. There’s also the sense of stillness that comes from having the attic completely sealed, not unlike the sensation when a foot of snow falls on the roof. Without that substantial convection, everything gets completely still because there’s no longer a draft pulling cold, damp air into the house from the basement. That’s a huge difference and was shocking to experience immediately after the foam guys finished.
Anyway.... so many good tips in this video for a guy like me!!! Thanks so much for your integrity and clarity!
Dumb
1:50 concrete counter-top - future: quartz?
3:20 appliances - middle grade - future: more expensive
5:50 switches and lights - CFL - future/now: LED
9:09 vinyl windows (custom) - future: fiberglass
10;52 plumbing - production/spec house - future: more expensive
13:40 Travertine on mud set - porous - future: Schluter system/non-porous tile
15:31 HVAC system - future: separate dehumidifier?
17:36 attic insulation - low grade duct insulation - future: air seal; baffles
, no batts
Smart
5:10 hardware - Magic Corner by Hafele
7:00 hidden door - Rixson pivot; Sugatsune Touch Latch/lift stays
10:12 fiberglass windows & single hung to casement
14:03 Kohler kitchen sink
14:45 hardwood floors in kitchen - 3/4 inch
Also (good):
Plyboo for cabinets
Miele dishwasher
Kohler kitchen faucet
Casement windows seal better than regular windows ? Didn't know that .
@Archie Bunker Oh, Aaaaaaaaaah-chie!
Great stuff. I must add one comment though. Often I would much rather see people cheap out on faucets and counter tops in the beginning and make sure that the hidden infrastructure is done correctly (plumbing/electrical/HVAC/Air sealing/Insulation). Though not cheap cheap it is much cheaper to replace a faucet and a counter top than to rip everything apart to do the basics correctly again.
I see all too often people spending big $$ on the glitz and then cheap out on the infrastructure. There is a balance.
Marching through that list now in my 1965 ranch that still looks like 1965 on the inside. Lucky for us the previous owners really kept up with regular maintenance but insulation, electrical, and plumbing are all dated and needed replaced. It sucks to do a ton of work you don't really get to see but it will make remodeling so much easier once the "guts" are all up to date.
Amen. We're repairing our home from hurricane Michael. We're trying hard to not skimp on structure, redoing electrical, plumbing, roof, insulation and siding. Most of that stuff I consider cosmetic and things you might want to update after 10 years anyways.
That is exactly what I did to my home during a full gut rehab. Put the money into whats behind the walls, and the superficial faucets, vanities etc can easily be replaced at a later date if need be. Not enough people realize or think of this, hence the saying...caulk and paint make it what it aint!
Great Point! I wish they would stress this point on the home remodel shows that usually just try to make a room pretty. If the homeowner understands how/why etc, I know I would make different choices. It sounds like one could do projects in stages better too once the infrastructure is tight....
@@jewlzt7331 Lol, many of the pipes and some wiring in my house (over 100 years old) is still in it. It does need updating and I need to make sure a filter is installed for the incoming water supply so sand does not clog in elbows etc again. I call myself lucky in that respect (and shows they 'don't make it like they used to').....
This may be matts best vid ever. thoroughly enjoyed it.
agreed
Agreed - excellent presentation - concise and meaningful answers to what worked well and what didn't.
Would be interesting to see the total cost of ownership of a Sub-Zero fridge over 30 years though. As much as I hate the fact that so many appliances can't be repaired due to non availability of spare parts I think that some improvements in modern appliances - such as quietness, zoning and timers - should be considered as well as operating cost / life span.
I do however have a soft spot for my Japanese made Engel 40 litre 230V / 12V fridge freezer. Purchased in 1980 and survived years of travelling in rough country in the back of a tray back LandCruiser. It has been dropped numerous times, has been exposed to the rain, heat & dust of Northern Australia. For the past 5 years it has sat in my garage running in freezer mode and if it cost me $10 a week for electricity I'd still run it. I'll probably die before it does!
Yes. Best one yet.
I appreciate how he stated what his mistakes were, best part about an honest builder and his opinions
It makes Matt a normal working class guy who has worked hard to get to his current build "dream" home. In Ireland were a begrudging lot.
Hi Matt! Nice tour. Thanks. I'd say that as far as "dumb" things, I'd say this. It's a lot about prioritizing the budget at the start of a project. Pay more for the things that will be harder to upgrade in the future. It's okay to go with cheaper faucets or appliances. Those are easy to replace in a few years when there's a bit of money in the savings account again. But go all out on things like insulation, windows, good quality labor, etc. There's always a temptation to put the money into the fancy finishes, but too often it's just lipstick on a pig.
But PLAN your design around better appliances if you REALLY are going to do that. Hard to make space for a commercial range when your cabinetry is designed around a typical 30" . Buy the commercial range and hood. Have the hood vent fan installed outside or in the attic. These are changes that are nearly impossible to do later. Wire your cabinets with outlets or just put in under cabinet lighting. It makes a big difference. Wire for fans, lights, put a pvc conduit from basement to attic for future use... Put a conduit under the driveway (think dog fence, cable, whatever) conduit under walkways, patio... run a gas line out for a future grill, perhaps a future back-up generator... Have a sub panel wired with essential circuits for a generator... Again, easy to do when building, more expensive later... See if you can get a separate water meter for outside water so you don't pay sewer for irrigation... Install a 400 amp service, bring in the largest gas line you can... DO NOT USE CSST GAS LINE, and if you must, don't use yellow, use the black... :) Always cheapest to do it when building... and try not to make changes once you start... changes are expensive...
@@horscategorie Also, make at least the entry level wheelchair accessible. In Australia 60% of households will have someone need that at some stage, and stuff like wider doors and level entries are also great for moving furniture or a baby in a pram. Then if you've got, for example, a kid with a nasty broken leg that they're in a chair while it heals, or even someone on crutches, or someone having mobility issues while pregnant, or you just live there long enough to get old and frail ... making a house accessible after the fact can cost 22 times as much as building it in from the design.
That's actually some really good advice 🙂
How about remodelers that say the painter will fix that a lot less often!
@@horscategorie how about code enforcement making roofers give kitchens and bathrooms stubouts even when there are no exhaust fans!
5:23 That magic corner is awesome! I am getting one for my kitchen remodel
I want one too!
Yeah what was the company? Apala?
@@Mr40Ruff Yes, thank you i couldn't catch the name either.
@@Mr40Ruff Hafele. I work in high end contract office furniture and their stuff is really good.
5:45 That cabinet door magically reopened.
Man I’ve been rebuilding an old desert house for my wife and me in Joshua Tree California and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone through your videos for help and education. It literally wouldn’t be the same house if you hadn’t put these videos up. From products like the Prosoco and Carlisle stuff to the perfect wall theory and on and on. Thanks for confirming that I was right about PVC windows and concrete countertops. Best of luck to y’all.
I dream of the day I can do a new-build with sealed exterior walls! I was glad to see Matt is very pleased with the usage and wear on his Formica countertops where he did install. I leave good-quality Formica countertops alone. No need to spend more!
thanks, Matt, for supplying your wife's website. We definitely need more sanity when understanding COVID-19, and the good doctor explanations are oriented towards lay people. Her explanation for needing to start school in the fall are well documented and explained.
It's nice that you're Man Enough to admit your past mistakes.
This is my favorite episode! Since I'm not building a new house, but remodeling an old house, getting an honest review of choices made is invaluable. Thanks for that. PS, specifically, was thinking of concrete countertops! Also, you nailed it with cheap appliances and plumbing fixtures. Don't do it! And don't ask me how I know! Thanks again.
Matt! I'm one of your subscribers and a big fan. Indeed, you are making ice cream in an oven, in your attic. You can improve your "attic disappointment" inexpensively by installing a radiant barrier SUB RAFTER. But you'll need ridge ventilation and copious eave air intake... to promote laminar natural air flow. I have done this (in my garage, and soon in my attic which was re-roofed in 2018, compliant to Title 24) in sunny SoCal (Yeah, it's drier here, admittedly) but you can do this too. Caveat: Rats will take refuge above that barrier; they don't mind the infernal temperatures, so rat proofing is mandatory.
Smart: insulating my basement, including the rimjoist with foam. My floors are nice and warm, even on -40 degree days. Dumb: not having the wiring redone before insulating the ceilings
35 years tileman here. Don't do an all Schlooter shower (IMO, there are some exceptions.). Mud set is still best but for your water problem you can use a water proof membrane to set over the float. Non-porous tile is a smart move for the shower of course. The new grouts will also go a long way to reducing water retention. You have shared some great info on your channel so I'm happy to share any of my knowledge with you. Just ask. I've got roman tubs out there that are 20+ years old and still look new, don't chill the water and stay warm a half hour after they are emptied... and went through the Northridge earthquake.
Thank You, Matt,
for your HONESTY and your eagerness to teach us who are willing to learn!!!
So many people in Construction are unwilling to learn and are so hard-headed when it comes to accepting real science!
Please keep up the Risinger style -- you are the best!!!
And I still say the Metal Frames for the window overhangs...
SHOULD HAVE BEEN POWDER-COATED!
We're looking to build a new home in the near future. We're keeping a running tally of what we want and what we do not want. Videos like this are invaluable. Love the magic corners.
Assuming you’re not a designer yourself, hire one! A good interior designer (not decorator) is worth their weight in gold. They will make all the hard decisions you go back and forth on. They will tell you what’s functional and what’s not. They will find you all the quality fixtures and materials that the average consumer cannot (only “to the trade”). And most importantly, they will be that fresh pair of eyes when they’re needed the most.
Disclaimer: I am a designer
That was my favorite thing!
Don't forget to plan for your WiFi access points! I'd recommend 1 per bedroom as well as good coverage in the common areas. Also, consider backyard coverage if you will have a patio or pool. Check out Ubiquiti's UniFi system -- it is high quality and reasonably priced.
@@eyespy3001 Designer or not, your suggestion may be something I'll seriously consider. I'm a Fine Artist
Instead of a expen$ive mechanical kitchen corner cabinet pull out do this. Put in a 45 degree cabinet with a high quality Lazy Susan.
You will love the additional corner counter space and open the door spin to what you want, take it out & close the door. Reverse process to put it back.
No complicated tracks, shelves to pull out and put back in. A huge time saver.
This makes me feel pretty good about 15 years ago me. I haven’t replaced any of the major appliances or plumbing fixtures I built into my house. I have Subzero and Kohler including Kohler commercial faucets and they’re perfect. I stayed on budget by getting these items on off-display clearance. I also got Corian countertop material from a salvage place leftover from somebody who just had to have granite. And I used porcelain tile. I guess this is what I get for being in my late 30s when I built my house. I already knew.
Good stuff Matt, My grandparents modeled an old Victorian in 1952, adding a Subzero refrigerator. I remember talking with my grandfather about 1990, he stating that was the original Subzero, still looking like new and he replaced the compressor once. Appliance 'lifecycle' is very important in the housing industry.
Thanks for the note on kitchen concrete countertops. I was actually considering this. We live in a half done kitchen because we both have ADHD and can’t stick to one project lol. Have the countertop tiled in one area. The grout is a pain in the butt. Thinking of just forking out the money for solid surface countertops. Easy maintenance.
You are great at what you do, Matt. It's really fun to see you turn into a proud dad in the middle of a video.
This vid was so relatable and so enjoyable. Matt is just like us after all! Great to see how matt grappled with compromise and balance over the years just like we have to when tackling our own house projects!
I can’t even imagine the number of people these videos will help for making smarter and better decisions when remodeling their homes. We need more people like you in the world who will teach us what works and more importantly what doesn’t work!!!! Thank you so much Matt!!!
I am a newer homeowner, also with a 1970s built home. I love that you are sharing your mistakes and successes with us. I am always trying to find what is going to be the best for my family.
Also, I have my pet peeves in my industry, but I love that you've shared yours as well so we can learn. Thank you Matt!
Please make this a series with other builders!
I'd watch hell out of that
Sometimes This Old House will go through a prior remodel and numerous things that failed will be pointed out. I learned not to go with the "latest and greatest" but the tried and true.
That could be a real easy and quick TH-cam format: interviewing others in their homes years after a remodel or build. Call it "Smart & Dumb" or "Succeed & Fail". I'm sure there would be many many volunteers.
Yes please....
Even better a builders anonymous video... names and addresses are hidden but it’s the builder talking about there own home... talk about a honest interview.... that’s TH-cam cash in the bank right there!
I really love the fact you talk about mistakes, I've made many of the same ones about the same time. I did put in quartz counters in 2005 - love them. No sealing, easy to clean, just don't set your coffee on it unless you want it to cool off quickly. Sub Zero - installed 6 years ago and will never put in another refrigerator. Went on vacation for a week and a half and the opened spinach was still crispy and fresh.
Vinyl windows, same issues in Montana. Southern exposure windows deformed over time. However, the insulating quality of vinyl in winter was a huge gain over wood.
Great video Matt! Your candor is a breath of fresh air. As a remodeler and having a decorative concrete business, your first one cut me deep. The concrete in the kitchen is unfortunate. The industry has come a VERY long way in the last 14 years. Concrete will always be "porous", but good quality mixes are extremely dense. That and much better sealers should provide years of service in a family kitchen without the need to reseal multiple times a year.
Keep up the great work.
Big fan for a couple years now ... this is one of the most helpful videos you've done for everyday design problems. The plumbing fixture comments were the most helpful. Thanks so much for this, Matt!
A mistake is a lesson you don’t learn from, the first time you repeat it then it’s a mistake
Our household has the same philosophy 👍🏼
Two things I regretted when I built my place in 04 was MDF skirting boards plus trims and cheap aluminium double glazed windows, we swapped out for German upvc windows with gel coated hardwood trims WOW what difference.. Love your work mate, cheers from Tasmania
GRIFFS REARMOUNT TURBO, The Modfather any details on the windows ie what brand/company that makes them? Really hating the condensation in the Sydney winter right now on my single pane aluminium esp now I have a kid and leave the humidifier on in his room at night.
@@quagmyre2 kommerling awesome windows
Awesome vid. Matt you seem so honest and a builder showing his mistakes makes feel you are one of us and not a builder that will "get" over on your customers.
Thanks for being humble, it's great to see someone admit we builders/remodelers never know everything about everything, but we are always trying to learn and provide the best product for our customers. Stay blessed bro.
Matt I did concrete countertops and sealed it with bar grade epoxy. Hardens, added a cutout for a replaceable cutting board. Ran a waterline directly to my Keurig machine.
Thought about it for a year before doing it.
cool that you can admit when some of you best plans flop . I found out the hard way that hollow core doors really do not stand up to kids very well , but the biggest disappointment is that they just do not slam well .
All About Spelling Curriculum! A Favorite.
I’ve enjoyed your series. Architecture Major/Intern Architect turned stay at home Homeschool Mom for the past 22 years. Thanks for teaching me so many new industry concepts.
Error: those kitchen cabinet handles: Catch your pockets and pjs, costs you clothing. Ask me how I know. When you have one of those touch faucets, you touch other people's faucets and wonder why they don't turn on or off. Ask me how I know.
Now I understand. Our Boy Matt embraced rule #1 before going into business for himself.
Make sure your wife has a good job. Complete with medical coverage.
Just being married is a good idea. I'm a 61-year-old widow rebuilding a tired old mid-century house on my own. T'aint easy.
@@rosethornil SMDH.
Durability/sustainability is more important than energy star!!!! Thank you for pointing that out!
one of my big disappointments with new dishwashers is that they don't have heating elements anymore. sure, no more burnt plastic lids, but now some items are still wet.
@@Shadi2 And the manufacture tells you to turn the hot water temp up so your dishes dry.... then the hot water manufacture tells you to turn it down to save energy??? lmao
Hurray! That's more of the whole picture in sustainability. When you actually look at the entire chain of events that got the dishwasher in the house, the energy used by it isn't as important, especially if you can make your own. Then the most ignored stage of the chain is the throw away part. These mountains of 'rubbish' are scary.
No modern appliances are built to last. They all are bottom line oriented....don’t kid yourself
@@andrewsmyrek7161 - sustainability is our new secular religion.
This video has been so informative. I'm a house cleaner and I run across a lot of the same issues that you have described in your video bad and good . Thank you for your honesty. It helps when shopping for a new home.
Thanks Matt, enjoying your videos. Just about to step into a kitchen remodel on a 1974 ranch. Dumb things: skimped on electric in bathroom remodel; put in mdf baseboards that time, dogs and kids have not been kind to; forgot to put in a water supply by a new fridge in downstairs bar area. Cool things: bamboo floors replacing carpet; exterior electric sockets; retrofit to smart lighting/switches. Cool things with the house is that original builder put in 2 electric circuits to supply the kitchen plugs, so there is a top circuit and a bottom circuit. We also have pocket doors in all interiors doors except the bathrooms.
You can add an in line air scrubber with a UV cleaner to your HVAC system if you don't want it in your hallway. We did that when we had our HVAC replaced.
One of the things I’ve seen doing repair and remodels the last few years: every penny you save by buying sub-exemplary materials will cost you $1000s in the end. Thank you for sharing your remodel tips!
Oh yeah - buy the best quality you can afford; take the step up.
This was the first video of yours to cross my path. It is the best video I have ever seen for remodeling educational purposes. It’s nice to learn how to do things the right way. What I don’t find very often is learning how to make the right decisions from the beginning. You point out your mistakes in past decisions AND offer what choice you should have made - very helpful.
NOW - you’re going to find this odd but a very small/minor detail you mentioned that resonated with me was your hard water issue...
I’d like to learn more about how you attack that problem throughout your house. You briefly mentioned in the video (11min 31 seconds) how your wife does not want a water softener... I respect that decision but I have no clue WHY that’s her decision. I’d love for you to elaborate on that.
My BIGGEST lesson: No concrete countertops in the kitchen! Thank You
Matt:
I really appreciate your willingness to experiment, provide backstory and be brutally honest about what worked, what didn’t and why. Home construction is a huge investment. Perhaps some of these things shouldn’t be considered “mistakes” but full scale in-service mock-ups that we can all learn from. You doing a concrete countertop in YOUR kitchen may have saved your business thousands in call-backs on other projects.
Couldn’t agree more on plumbing fixtures and appliances.
Thanks for sharing
Your ability to admit to past mistakes is amazing.
I've learned a few things after building my first house.
1) as much as fad stuff is cool - keep it simple.
2) as much as you wanna build stuff that YOU like. Think about what 80% of people would like and incorporate that into your idea (for resale)
3) white, is a timeless color. Can't go wrong when in doubt.
4)buy once, cry once.
This goes for appliances, counters (I did quartz, hate granite) flooring etc.
High end products always outlast the cheap stuff unless its something very, very easy to replace.
After buying, remodeling/ ground up build and selling 4 homes over the last 15 years don't build a house for someone else if it is for you. Build what you want and if you make it look nice it will sale. This is all assuming your not crazy.
Tyrone Ismyname Truth!
Fads like painting everything gray just because someone on a TV show says gray is "in".
@@tysleight We're on this line of thought except we are not planning on selling anything but using them as residual income for future generations. We do mostly what we like plus durability (e.g why do ppl put in cheap toilets, those are always a nightmare, soft close hinges save cabinet finishes, tile shower outlast a million to one a acrylic shower, durable washable paint over the bargain bucket)
Trevn Ti I believe that upfront costs tend to frighten people, especially when they’re shelling out thousands of dollars a month on a mortgage payment. However, if you shop according to quality rather than price tag, you’d be surprised at how much you’ll end up saving in the long run by not having to replace that fixture/appliance/whatever within five years.
Thanks Matt for the confessions of a builder. I built my own home over 30 years ago and similarly did many great things and a few I would change. Like you, I had a limited budget and used mid grade faucets and appliances. With my budget, it was what I could afford. But now, 30 years later, I've replaced my dishwasher 3 times and am looking for a strong long lasting unit. On the good side, I used 2x6 exterior walls with 1" foam on the outside and cold side venting. My walls are about R25. I meticulously caulked all foam seams and transitions and then even applied Tyvek building paper. On the vaulted ceilings there is a minimum of R38 fiberglass insulation and in the truss areas it is even higher. Super tight house. With about 6,000 square feet of living area, my heating bill is about $150 and my A/C is around $200. The home is located on a hill over looking a valley of the family farm. I have a walk out basement with a single car garage for my workshop. So nice to do an oil change in a heated garage or open a garage door to load or move out projects. If you ever want to stop in, I'd love to meet you. I'm about 50 miles west of Chicago. The next big project I'd love to do is to add solar. I have an enormous amount of southern facing roof. Oh, and my raised deck is 20 x 26 and also looks south over the valley. The deck uses 3 steel beams spanning the 26 foot width providing a 3 car shaded deck for the lower walkout. Very nice. Thanks for the videos, it was fun for me to review my own build process as you review different jobs.
Wow, I'm glad i watched this. We bought a 70s fixer upper house last january and then covid hit- the costs have doubled and tripled on things so im always looking for ways to save money- you saved me from putting in concrete kitchen countertop and getting a cheapo bathroom faucet. Im also putting in LEDs and have window and attic issues....your video was super informative for me- thank you so much! And im also removing popcorn, skim coating crappy textured bathroom walls, etc etc...oh, and checking out window replacements. We're in Nevada so the tip about vinyl stopped me from another mistake!
One of your best videos! Love when you get personal!
Funny, my COVID project was to replace those damn concrete counters I feel for 10 years ago too with the quartz I should have done. The new quartz countertops with the single bowl Blanco sink and Brizo faucet look fantastic. Thanks for sharing.
I so love your channel !! I'm a retired high end custom home builder from Scottsdale/ Paradise Valley AZ. Once you were a builder it never gets out of your soul !!! Thank You !!!!
Thx, great video!
Love my corian counters w/SEAMLESS sink; magic corner, fold out pantry, pull out cupbiards, warming oven.
Goof up in amother remodel: dark bronze CURVED stylestone (quartz blend) - shows hard water spots, can't get color back. Plus - Curved = GRANITE COUNTER custom cut for sink. Big $$ mistake!
Thx for other video on windows. Had bought house in FL w/single pane windows. , Decided to seal up w/foam backer rods instead of replace for $15K plus grief of repainting patchwork outside & in 14 windows!
Another proj was replcmnt fence around pool - vinyl kept blowing over in heavy storms, panels are like 'wind sails' Should have opted for cyclone & worried about privacy later.
Also replaced shingle roof w/ metal. Only $5k more & no worries for 40yrs.
Keep up good work on videos!!
I'll check out the wife's channel, too.
Thx for the real stuff & for sharing!
"Who wants a countertop you have to reseal every year". Funny you say that, since you were seemingly excited about the limestone indoor/outdoor flooring in your last video, where you said the homeowner would have to reseal every two years. And that was an entire house, not just a countertop!
Good point. I think the difference is a certain level of wealth. At some point, maybe looks and luxury become more important, as maintenance work is easily hired.
I think Matt's complaint about the concrete countertops was that they stain easily and there is nothing you can do to fix it or prevent it.
Matt, this is by far one of my favorite videos that you've made. Keep up the great work!!!
I can't think you enough for being so candid with this video. Thank you brother! Peace be with you.
Good video Matt. I totally agree regarding your statement about the vinyl windows. The front of my house faces due south and gets full sun every day. The seal on every window on the front has failed except one (it gets shade from a small tree in the afternoon). The Palladium window over my front door has had a seal failure 4 times! And when I had the windows replaced I had Low E glass used. Big mistake. It burns lines in my grass in late summer and it has distorted the trim around my wife’s car windows. Next time I will have a dark tint film put on the glass exterior.
And I can relate to the attic and plumbing issues. I have been upgrading plumbing fixtures as the issues pop up. Had to replace a tub/shower valve recently and had to install a access panel and replace the valve from the back side. Luckily it was in the water closet behind the door. I didn’t want to tear the tile off to repair it.
Ron
Really good video, funny and really shows that your a good guy
Greater love has no one than this, that someone lay down his life for his friends. Yet you also first lay yours down for your family, esp. that baby girl of yours. That speaks volumes to me as someone dealing w./ asthma.
I appreciate the fact that you have exposed your own mis-steps during your remodel. It will certainly help my wife and I make decisions for our remodel projects as we go. Thanks!
When I built my house we asked how many times we wanted to redo something and then spent the money on higher quality material. I was my own general contractor and was at the house every day all day and fortunately I know something about construction and stipulated materials and methods before I started. I also listened to subs I felt had my interests at heart and used their knowledge. I love the way my house turned out.
I really appreciate the insight about the concrete counter tops. I was ready to install them in my new build and this video has convinced me to not use them. And side note...I'd still hire you for a GC position on an ICF LEEDS residential build in NC. Let me know Matt...I've watched your channel for years.
Agreed 100% I don't like them at all. JMO.
Wouldn't it be necessary to increase the floor joists under the kitchen or step up to the next size in dimensional lumber to sustain the extra weight of concrete or granite for that matter?
@@klmbuilders5385 We installed granite on an 11-foot long island that was 3.5 feet wide. No extra bracing needed. The house is 40 years old. So far, we haven't fallen into the basement!
Sis-in-law had bro do concrete counter top in bsmnt bar, took a bunch of buds to even lift it & drag it in! Then many coats of sealer.
Concrete, not much character - goes outside in front of my garage, right? Lol, not my taste...
Matt - that's not a kitchen sink, that's a small bathtub 😂
ONE monster mistake is going cheap on a sink. I see people putting in 6 inch deep sinks. More water ends up on the countertops than in the sink
But have you ever had a sink that's too small? It's a nightmare. IMO the bigger the better.
Got rid of the split sink.. last Reno. Best ever. The little disposal side just was a junk collector.
Now everything goes through disposal.. keeps it cleaner because of this also.
For heat and a/c:
Check out the UniCo System!
The duct sizes are very small as it’s a pressurized system. Very quiet, most cases one(1) return centrally located. I run the duct (main is 9” round) in a soffit so the entire system is in the conditioned space.
I had an architect in Greenwich CT. show it to me in the late 80’s for Historic Renovation work. I’ve used ever since.
I’m always shocked that contractors don’t know about it.
There are a few proprietary tools and a short learning curve but not any more than the switch over to PEX.
The best system hands down. You’ll be glad you found it.
Thank for getting good info out.
Cheers
Hammer Hardesty
North Yarmouth, Maine & Charlotte N.C.
Matt, I really appreciate your integrity, as demonstrated by this video. Your mistakes have become solid learning points for anyone considering remodeling. Thank you!
Your kid is uber safety minded--he's got 'fire extinguisher' listed three times!
Agreed. I wouldn't even hesitate to get the kid of a fire extinguisher unless he has some underlying desire to need one.
There might be more to that one than we know hahaha
Need the fire extinguisher for the boat
A couple of comments
Kitchen counter: I was thinking that Caesar Stone quartz was impervious to everything and I was wrong. Quartz itself does a good job but the resin that binds it does not and ages with time, temperature and chemicals. So a white counter ends up with a yellowish color. It can be fixed by polishing and removing that layer. I'd still put it as I don't like the other options
Secret doors: It is no more secret when your fingerprints gets all over the painted push zone. I'd rather have some metal plate where to push to open
Cabinets: when cabinets have sliding shelves, the cabinet door should slide with the shelf rather than pivot on hinges. You can see that in the later case you scratch the door interior face when not fully open and operates the shelf, and that happens
Water softener: a must have. there is no appliance that can last with hardness. Use Potassium rather than Sodium for healthier choice
Design: besides lasting forever a bathroom cabinet should have an elegant design, but it depends on everyone's taste
For countertops, look into sintered stone options. Sintering is heat + pressure, without the polymers. Brands like Neolith and Lapitec. These are sometimes mistakenly called porcelain countertops because the process is similar in how it is made.
Do you have an example of your pullout shelf door combination? It sounds good.
Great to see and know as we're building this summer!
This is lovely Matt, showing us what does work and what not explaining why is excellent. Would like to see more of these think over reviews. These practical reviews help to make my own decisions and finding what is best. I didn't know about the Hafele magic corner and why concrete countertops are not for the kitchen. Vinyl doors and windows are prone to brake ins as well. Hope Dr. Christy will sponsor you more for this kind of content.
I want to see this video in 10 years about the real remodel
Me, a German, watching this video: "Wait, there are dishwashers *without* a salt compartment?"
I have to keep my dishwasher filled with rinse-aid or else the dishes start to smell bad as they dry. City water. No salt compartment though. Not even on our 2018 Bosch in a recent home. Most folks around here with hard water (home or shared well) have home water-softener systems.
This is the first that I have heard of one and I lived in Germany for a couple of years.
I’ve honestly never even heard of such a thing... seems smart though! I think a whole house water softener is a must have especially in most of Texas but I guess this is a good alternative! What kind of salt do you fill it with and how often? Thanks
Culligan Water makes a salt free whole house conditioner if your wife would go that route. Also they have a High Efficiency one that reduces the amount of flushing water if that is her concern.
Is the water hard in Germany? I live in a place with very soft water. We have no use for a water softener.
Enjoyed the pluses & minuses of remodeling. We all will get it right on the next one. Schluter seems to have the better waterproofing system for showers but even they have had failures. Need perfect installations it seems. Also with super tight houses, you have to consider indoor air exchanges, filtration & heat/cool exchanges to get more passive conditions. Stretch those dollars with even more planning.
This is great. I remodeled in 2009, not knowing anything but wanting to be more energy efficient and "green." I found someone who did a plant-based spray foam, which is great, except that they weren't very good at it, so lots of gaps along the studs. I also apparently skimped on faucets, basically from not understanding what makes one better than another. I did a soapstone kitchen counter and I'm really pleased with that. It's soft, so I've had a few scrapes, but it's dense and natural and just looks good even now. Other most dumb thing was not finding a builder who knew about modern materials and techniques. I used wood ibeams in the floor and I found the builder putting pieces of plywood in them to make them more rigid. Geez. I should've changed the crew right then, but cost and time and a marriage required me to go on.
Imagine having this guy as a neighbour.
I'd be constantly pecking his head for advice on improving my home ngl haha
You might not reach him. He'll be out on contract jobs 😁
@@styldsteel1 He's gotta come home some time. XD
Appreciate your honesty, although I have to argue about vinyl windows. Perhaps it depends on your location and the quality. I've had them in three different houses for replacement windows and have loved them each time. Midwest location, so probably not as hot as Texas. Agree about the hardwood floors - they're top notch. And sorry - I'll never be sucked into concrete counters. They're just plain ugly. I have granite with a ten-year finish on it. I've had it five years and so far I've never had to do anything to it.
Love the video and love your channel ! Thanks for sharing some of your mistakes. It is true that you learn more from mistakes than from successes. Lord knows I've made my share of bad ones. You know the ultimate Build show is to have you over for a bourbon and have you go through my house and tell me what to change and all the best new stuff to install. There is no way you could do that for every viewer but you doing videos like this get very close. Please do more of this type of video where you go through normal average American homes and teach us how to improve our "quality of life". You do a fantastic job and are a excellent communicator ! Thank you.
Thanks for doing this! It shows that we all make mistakes and learning from yours helps with my next renovation. Make this a series!!!!
My dream is to build my own home one day and for it to be a net-positive home. You really showed me where I need to put the money in a home.
Miele is very good. I have that brand myself throughout the house.
We just finished a complete renovation in our 1950's Ranch home, and now we're moving due to covid-19.
I would do it all again; the mistakes taught me so much. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for a lovely video, I've never regretted having a Miele washing machine, having just replaced my first one after 22 years, with another Miele. I did ruin my Miele dishwasher though, by using it without filling the salt dispenser, so it conked out after 5 years. I now have a Siemens, and make jolly sure I keep the salt filled, 12 years on, all still good. Hardly anyone in the UK has a water softener, so we need salt in the dishwashers, I didn't realise any were made without salt containers? I never liked the idea of concrete worktops so I had iroko, and 20 years on, it looks as good as new. I always use a wooden board to actually cut on, and re oil the worktop approx every 5 years with Linseed oil, then just wipe with fairy liquid (Dawn I believe in U.S.) which incidentally will also seal those marble tile floors. I have those tiles on my kitchen floor, sealed with linseed oil, 20 years ago, and still looking as good as they did when laid, no stains or marks. Reoiled once about 10 or 12 years ago, and from current appearence, may never need to do again? Four children, large dog, tortoise, and 3 cats, so plenty of wear...Thanks again for informative video, very helpful :)
Most impressing from this video is how well you've clearly raised your boy! Also perhaps unfortunate that such a thing deserves praise but it does.
Hey Matt, If you had it to do over again, how would you approach the re-insulation of the attic today? I'm in a similar boat and trying to figure out what the ideal approach would be. Spray-in between the rafters? Engineered insulation panels across the back of the rafters? There seem to be a TON of different ways to approach this, and none of them ideal or particularly clear in terms of pros/cons.
He should just wrap batt insulation around those ducts. In a few hours he's got that fixed. I have the same attic setup and that's what I did. Very simply solution as compared to his very expensive solution.
Search his "Insulation 2.0" video. Excellent.
I love this channel. I learn SO MUCH! The (bordering self deprecation, "dumb" ~vs~) honest expression
really suits the nature of your person and approach to sharing such vast wisdom.
You are real and incredibly candid in everything that you do...
Just started a full remodel on my first house! I'm a diy person not big into construction YET! So glad I found this video and channel! Thanks new sub here!
As a long time designer and builder, I can tell you that the landscape for "admitting mistakes" has changed dramatically over the last half century. This is Matt's best video in months, but anyone in his or my position who provides any leverage to a liability lawyer is cutting their own throat. The presentation here is pretty benign in that regard, however, and not going to cause Matt any problems. In Colorado, a homeowner is allowed to file suit on any hidden construction defects found during the seven years following completion of the project. I recently completed an $80k leak repair for a client that recovered from the prior owner for "failure to disclose"(with another $20K in fees to the lawyer who obtained the settlement). The core problems had existed from the original construction, 8 years earlier, but the prior owner had failed to file on the builder, did a coverup and tried to slip away unnoticed. My clients had a third of the (out-of-level) living room floor covered in a sheet of water the first week after moving in. Not pre-existing?? Ouch.
Re failure to disclose: Years ago, in my neighborhood, this guy put up his house for sale and was considered "such a great guy" because he dropped the price to enable a young couple with a baby to buy it. They moved in and soon baby was sick, then baby and wife. Long story short: The guy had black mold on the walls and floors, so he hired a contractor to cover it up by putting up another layer of drywall and another layer of flooring. Guy and contractor were charged and went to prison. I'm sure couple sued, but don't know what happened there. Can you IMAGINE someone would do that? Bad enough that adults would live there, but a BABY? You'd have to be a sociopath to do something like that.
Thats's so cool, such a proud dad. I hope to be there someday, damn.
Fantastic video. I subscribed within the first 3 minutes. Thanks for sharing!! I am currently remodeling and this could not have been more timely. Fortunately the things I've done so far you've categorized as "smart" (higher-end appliances, rocker switches, wood floors) but I can't say my path would have avoided all of the "dumbs". Can't wait to view more of your content. Thanks for adding to the collective intelligence!
Very helpful video! Thank you! I just sold my house last weekend, that I bought in 2006 also. I remodeled the whole thing myself, and I fell into the cheap faucets trap. Big mistake, I agree. I epoxied over my thin granite countertops, and it's been fantastic. Very durable, and 4 years later, they look brand new. You could easially do that to your kitchen countertops.
A quick tip on dishwasher care: you don't need a water softener. Add white vinegar as your rinse agent every load, the vinegar will keep the calcium carbonate and other deposits in solution during the dry cycle.
That magic corner is awesome!!!
One of the most informative videos I’ve seen! A lot of similarities and very helpful for some issues we’re looking at with ours!
Matt, this is a phenomenal video, so informative from an experience perspective, would love to hear more like this in a series, maybe from clients? Good stuff!