If you ever do this on my loadbearing wall, you make sure you reframe the wall first and support everything as you mess with the loadbearing wall, that can cause major damage and that worst cost of your life
Good video with great info. Easily the best video on TH-cam on installing a beam. Several years ago my son and daughter-in-law wanted to knock a wall down between their kitchen and living room. I told them it was a load bearing wall and would need a beam. (I had been in their attic before and knew it was load bearing). Her parents were having work done at their house and their carpenter came over and looked at it and said it wasn’t a load bearing wall and he could do it pretty easily. I talked them into having a structural engineer look at it and he confirmed it was load bearing and gave them a couple of different options. My point is to get a structural engineer to look at it and confirm either way. If for no other reason than it makes sure everyone stays safe down the road.
That was awesome. I'm so thankful he would shed light on what I'm about to do at my house. I feel 100% better and know what to look for when the crew comes in. Total thumbs up and thanks a ton.
Great video. Anyone doing this needs to be sure that an engineer specs everything out and the engineered plan is followed. Otherwise you can have major issues! You may want to include some explanation on how that load is transferred down into the foundation through those support posts.
This was a cool video, did this at my old house and I’m looking to do it again. The only thing that sketches me out is the studs from the wall above having no bottom plate under them just floating but I don’t think there’s any way around that. Last time I did this I had a 9 foot span and a bottle jack. We built a post that fit over the bottle jack shaft and slowly jacked it up into place since the floor above had sagged.
The one thing that scared/troubled me is that the corner 2x4 in the temp wall should have been reinforced or doubled up. One more stud across to tie them a ll together or a beefier end stud because the beam was thicker since it was carrying the load of all the perpendicular joists upstairs. And, the fact the stud you took out was a 4x4 means it was a heavier point load. On 2x4 holding all that, especially when anyone could hit it while removing the existing wall and it could snap! Is good to foresee and address the "just in case" issues.
Honestly, and maybe I’m just being overkill here. I don’t think the supports they used will be a great long term support. I think that was a couple 4x6’s on each end to support that entire span of a huge header beam? Sorry, I’d be adding a few more. You don’t need a seamless transition if you open a wall like that. Add a few more just in case imo. To each their own. Maybe he had a structural engineer look at it. I doubt it though. The fact that it now supports the floor above it as well as supporting what I imagine is the horizontal forces that were previously supported by the wall/studs (to me) just seems like it’s not sufficient. I’m curious what the actual building code is for a span like this.
@@vanstromi7810 Novice here trying to understand - so you're suggesting that for those post beams (@ 13:10) - you would've put 2 EACH on each side? so like 4 Posts in total to support that new beam?
Just discovering you guys so I can get an idea of what a load-bearing wall project (or something similar) would entail for my home, and I am SHOCKED at how few subs you guys have. This is well-informed, well-produced, and entertaining! You've earned my subscription today, and I learned that something like I envision in my home is possible! Thanks a bunch!
Love these guys! You guys make me laugh but also inform me of the safe and correct techniques. I cannot wait for more content and I love how informative John and Ben are. Also, love the different camera angles that were brought into the mix to enhance the video. Great work and keep it up!
Very well done and clean and safe. I’ve done this many times and this is a very good tutorial. Shockingly I’ve seen many contractors do the same but not so well and very unsafe. You have earned a new subscriber and I don’t do that lightly!! Look forward to more great vids!!
Safe? Not one respirator, that guy was breathing pure demolition dust using the multi-tool. It’s pretty infuriating to see good craftsman take piss poor care of their employees health. Makes them look like hacks
You are all awesome. Thank you for sharing. I wanted to open up my kitchen now that my house was on fire and intended to repair my kitchen myself. Im your new subscriber.
How do you know what size beam and pillar to install? I've seen some videos use 2x14-in beams, another used 4x16. The support pillars have been 4x4 or 6x6.
Just wondering how you know what size Glulam and posts to use. Was it engineered or is there some way to figure that out? I was also surprised you didn't use Simpson brackets to secure the posts to the beam. Do you just know what to use based on experience or is engineering required in these situations?
Pretty informative video for the average homeowner who dosent frame for a living. Usually in California a beam being installed like this requires and Simpson eccq at both ends. Also would’ve installed blocks against the beam as you cut the sheathing back so now it rest on the joists only. Also would’ve doubled or tripled the last shoring stud as a precaution never know how much weight one beam is holding
Great job guys .I need to remove a 15 foot block wall to make a bigger/larger kitchen in my single story house. I noticed that splice Joists are resting on the wall. I know I would need a 15 ft beam to support/replace the block wall that's a load bearing wall. Question: what size beam(4+4 or 6+6) would be best. I will be using treated pine for the beam . Thank you.
Great video, very helpful. For existing home with load bearing wall, Can you join two small beams using metal connector between the two together to make one long beam to get rid of a column holding up the weight?
Hi there! We would always refer any type of structural modification work to a licensed structural engineer. That being said, it sounds like the only way to achieve what you are describing would be to connect a metal beam together, otherwise one continuous wood (or engineered wood) beam would be required. Hope that helps. When in doubt, refer to a licensed professional who specializes in structural engineering!
So was the wall above not load bearing? You cut the joists, sill plate, and studs of the upper wall; what kept that wall in place prior to putting the beam in?
Hello, thanks for your interest in our channel. Yes, it was a load bearing wall and we installed a temporary shoring wall to support the weight. Please re-watch the first half of the video!
@@grantmaurybuilds I understood the shoring wall and all that. You cut out a section of the rim joist and then cut out the sill plate above that and a section of the studs. What was keeping the wall above the rim joist that you removed supported?
Great tutorial on this. I’m looking to install structural beam for exact purpose you just did…open wall between kitchen and living room. My existing wall is longer (like 20-22’). Will I need extra post to support extra length of beam?
Great question - not entirely sure on this. Depends on existing conditions, loads, etc. We would recommend having a licensed structural engineer take a peek to advise. Thank you for your interest in the channel!
Great tutorial!…as a remodeling contractor I’ve been involved in this many ,many times.Curious as to the engineering that went into your project…size of beam,loads on posts,what’s under posts,etc.
Thank you so much for the interest in the channel! Great questions, our structural engineer visited the site before hand and calculated what reinforcements (foundation, posts, beams, etc.) would be necessary given the existing conditions vs new proposed wall removal.
Thanks a lot guys for an incredible tutorial. This was such a detailed walk-through with appropriate pauses to explain critical steps. I’m in the process of doing this on a future home and can’t wait to references video along the way. Thank you so much. 🙏🙏🙏
do you have a video of the footing the post are resting on? if there is a basement, how does the load travel through the floor to the basement? and also, does the basement floor have to be poured thicker to carry the load?
I'm not a carpenter by trade but when you cut the bottom seal for the 2nd floor the wall in the 2nd floor wasn't being supported anymore because the floor beam and floor joists got cut as well. The weight of the roof and wall in that section was just floating. Correct me if im wrong.
Thanks for your interest in our channel. We always suggest consulting with a licensed engineer before making any structural modifications to a residence
The wall that is above our beam is not load bearing as identified by our structural engineer. The beam install was to support the floor joists and beams 2x that landed on the wall we removed. Hope that helps!
If the upper floor studs are bearing on the plywood sheathing, how were you able to cut those before installing the beam, without the studs falling down?
You have to take in to account the crown of the lumber. Then now explanation of what to do with that data. Suggest cutting the lumber outside to reduce dust in the home.
Great question! The strapping that we installed at the posts is used to tie in the top plates to the posts wherever they intersect. The goal is to reinforce and strengthen the plate / post connection since we “broke” the top plate to install the posts Hope that helps! Thank you for your interest in our channel!
The sill plate for your temp wall does not have to be fastened to the floor, although if you feel the need to do so it is not a bad idea. In this project we snuggly installed our temp studs to create a nice fit to ensure no movement would occur. We recommend always exercising caution and safety when working with temp support. It doesn’t ever hurt to add additional support if you feel the need to do so! Hope that helps - we are grateful for your interest in the channel!
We put an exposed beam like yours in a room addition .Our building inspector almost denied our permit because we drilled a hole for the wiring of a ceiling fan . He said you never drill a hole through a beam because it weakens the structure of said beam . He said to hide the wiring behind and down the beam instead of drilling through a beam .
I noticed there was no extra support given below the floor. Is this because you were working on a slab? If the foundation was post & pier, you would probably need to add extra p/p below the floor directly under those 4x6 posts, correct? Appreciate the content, very well done.
Loved the video, nicely done and very informative. Question about the posts supporting the ends of the beam. Was the slab already reinforced at the location of the posts and capable of bearing the weight instead of the weight being distributed across the wall? How did you determine the capability of the slab to accommodate the concentrated weight?
Thank you! Yes we addressed this in the earlier phase of construction. We recommend consulting with a structural engineer when making any modifications to existing conditions.
When putting the structural beam do you always use Nails or can you use structural screws. I’m thinking doing this. Does it make a difference if the house on slab or pier and beam.
How are you carrying the roof load that is sitting on the upper wall? you cut the 4 king studs and they are floating. Is there no roof load on that wall?
I dont know if the house has a basement but how did you handle the large point loads at each end of the new beam and carry the load down to the foundations?
In the video we detail which direction the rafters and joists are pointing, therefore indicating which part of the wall is actually load bearing. Hopefully this or the video answers your question.
Can the house be sold with this modification without Permit? I’m thinking to remove the dry wall on a load bearing wall, but I will keep the studs untouched, wrap studs with cosmetic wood profile and make the rooms semi open
why not add braces to the temporary studs for extra support idont know whats above that ceiling but what if the studs bend over said weight? a brace would spread the load out more right?
How did this pass an inspection? Maybe I missed something but that LVL beam went up to support not the floor but the studs on the exposed 2nd floor wall. You can see the planning time stamp at 9m58s (for about 1s it goes by really fast, when they show the cut away sections to put up the 14" LVL beam) AND then the positioning of the LVL beam at 12m50s when they hoist it up and it snugs up against the studs. So it's not actually supporting the 2nd floor directly; instead it is pushing up against the wall framing. Yes, they do tie the joists to the LVL beam but I am not trusting those ties to be sufficient. They're a focusing point for a failure. Back to the LVL beam and the 2nd floor wall framing -> the framing is attached to the 2nd floor but the direction of the force from the framing is to pull up on the floor instead of push up against the floor's load.
We put up 2 glue laminate beams this year - one to support about half the width of the end of the house ‘cause we were extending the length of that room by 16’ and then tieing another 14’ beam into that one ‘cause we were widening the existing room by 2’. The second beam is load bearing. Our 2 beams look nothig like the beam they are installing. What type of beam is that? It almost looks like an OSB beam. I would have used three 7” or 8” timber screws in each support post to ensure a rock solid hold to the existing framing [and thus no need for the strapping]. My experience is that nails tend to work loose as wood dries and thus shrinks a bit; I like to reinforce with construction screws of the appropriate size. In fact I used Simpson construction screws in 1/2 of the holes on my beam hanger. My 0.02¢
Whats the cost to do something like this a 20ft beam 2 story home so floor joist above and who would i get to do that. thanks so much nice video of construction harmony.
Load bearing walls always require footing supports on either end. Always check with a licensed structural engineer before making any modifications to existing conditions. That will ensure all is being performed safely and professionally. Appreciate your feedback and interest on the channel.
What should I do about making the temporary walls on top of laminate flooring? Is there any way to do these without nailing into the laminate? What is the solution here?
It is possible to install temporary walls (shoring) without securing the plates to the floor. Just make sure that your studs are plumb in both directions (or very close to plumb), and snugly fit so that the plates don’t slip or move. Remember to always double and triple check all your existing framing and configuration before removing any load bearing members. Hope that helps - we appreciate your interest in our channel!
Okay I have a question. I want to do this on a mobile home, a single wide mobile home. I want to remove a 10 ft piece of wall and add on to my dining room. All of this applies to what I'm going to do except for on a mobile home the floor is junk already so if I'm going to transfer all the way to the roof onto the two poles on each end on the floor it seems like it's going to be a problem. Therefore I think I still need to do something on the floor. Maybe even put some sort of beam similar to the top down there or something. What are your thoughts on that?
In all honest transparency, we do not have a lot of experience working on mobile homes for this type of service. We would recommend having a licensed engineer take a look to advise in regards. Thank you for your interest in our channel!
Love the video but im used to be in safety in au and there is soooo many bad practice methods, not in the work though which is good but when i saw the you sharpening the chisel with the grinder 😳
so now that you have installed a beam you have created substantial point loads at both ends. I see you put posts at each end but did you address the point loads in the foundation or what ever the floor is constructed of ?
Just said hello with load transfer through the slab? Did you see how deep that slab was or just like every other hack and didn’t worry about a footer where all that load transfer goes?
My landlord is going to love what I’ve done with the place
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
This was the most informative video I've seen on TH-cam explaining how to remove a load bearing wall. Thanks you!
Yes!!! I came here to say this!
Sweet man I’m 20yrs and I love how you teach I appreciate the knowledge my man
If you ever do this on my loadbearing wall, you make sure you reframe the wall first and support everything as you mess with the loadbearing wall, that can cause major damage and that worst cost of your life
Good video with great info. Easily the best video on TH-cam on installing a beam. Several years ago my son and daughter-in-law wanted to knock a wall down between their kitchen and living room. I told them it was a load bearing wall and would need a beam. (I had been in their attic before and knew it was load bearing). Her parents were having work done at their house and their carpenter came over and looked at it and said it wasn’t a load bearing wall and he could do it pretty easily. I talked them into having a structural engineer look at it and he confirmed it was load bearing and gave them a couple of different options. My point is to get a structural engineer to look at it and confirm either way.
If for no other reason than it makes sure everyone stays safe down the road.
Thank you. Yes we completely agree. Best to work with either an established, trusted builder or bringing on a structural engineer.
Yeah every idiot who's pushed a broom and bought a hammer is a "carpenter" these days. Coke heads and high school drop outs. Gotta love construction.
That was awesome. I'm so thankful he would shed light on what I'm about to do at my house. I feel 100% better and know what to look for when the crew comes in. Total thumbs up and thanks a ton.
Thank you! Glad you found the video helpful!
If the "crew" are coming in you don't need to look for anything 😂😂 unless you mean you know how to run the crew now.
How much did it cost you?
This is the perfect video to practically show each step of the load bearing wall project. Great work by masters in their trade. 👍
Great video. Anyone doing this needs to be sure that an engineer specs everything out and the engineered plan is followed. Otherwise you can have major issues! You may want to include some explanation on how that load is transferred down into the foundation through those support posts.
Great point!
Awesome work, guys! Subbed!
Thanks for the support!!!
This was a cool video, did this at my old house and I’m looking to do it again. The only thing that sketches me out is the studs from the wall above having no bottom plate under them just floating but I don’t think there’s any way around that. Last time I did this I had a 9 foot span and a bottle jack. We built a post that fit over the bottle jack shaft and slowly jacked it up into place since the floor above had sagged.
The one thing that scared/troubled me is that the corner 2x4 in the temp wall should have been reinforced or doubled up. One more stud across to tie them a ll together or a beefier end stud because the beam was thicker since it was carrying the load of all the perpendicular joists upstairs. And, the fact the stud you took out was a 4x4 means it was a heavier point load. On 2x4 holding all that, especially when anyone could hit it while removing the existing wall and it could snap! Is good to foresee and address the "just in case" issues.
Honestly, and maybe I’m just being overkill here. I don’t think the supports they used will be a great long term support. I think that was a couple 4x6’s on each end to support that entire span of a huge header beam? Sorry, I’d be adding a few more. You don’t need a seamless transition if you open a wall like that. Add a few more just in case imo. To each their own. Maybe he had a structural engineer look at it. I doubt it though. The fact that it now supports the floor above it as well as supporting what I imagine is the horizontal forces that were previously supported by the wall/studs (to me) just seems like it’s not sufficient. I’m curious what the actual building code is for a span like this.
@@vanstromi7810 Novice here trying to understand - so you're suggesting that for those post beams (@ 13:10) - you would've put 2 EACH on each side? so like 4 Posts in total to support that new beam?
Just discovering you guys so I can get an idea of what a load-bearing wall project (or something similar) would entail for my home, and I am SHOCKED at how few subs you guys have. This is well-informed, well-produced, and entertaining! You've earned my subscription today, and I learned that something like I envision in my home is possible! Thanks a bunch!
I came here for the same thing, these guys are great!
You just became my new studying guide. Sincerely, thank you. Much love
Glad you enjoy the content!
Love these guys! You guys make me laugh but also inform me of the safe and correct techniques. I cannot wait for more content and I love how informative John and Ben are. Also, love the different camera angles that were brought into the mix to enhance the video. Great work and keep it up!
Thank you Abram!!!
Very well done and clean and safe. I’ve done this many times and this is a very good tutorial. Shockingly I’ve seen many contractors do the same but not so well and very unsafe. You have earned a new subscriber and I don’t do that lightly!! Look forward to more great vids!!
Thank you Carlos. Much appreciated. Thank you for the kind words!
Safe? Not one respirator, that guy was breathing pure demolition dust using the multi-tool. It’s pretty infuriating to see good craftsman take piss poor care of their employees health. Makes them look like hacks
Great video! Love how you explained and then re-explained. Three thumbs up guys! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You are all awesome. Thank you for sharing. I wanted to open up my kitchen now that my house was on fire and intended to repair my kitchen myself. Im your new subscriber.
Grant, amazing work! I am curious what does a project like this cost for the home owner?
Was there any shoring walls built in the upstairs / second story?
This is the best video for removing the load bearing wall!!! Any interest to do it for my house in CA?
How do you know what size beam and pillar to install? I've seen some videos use 2x14-in beams, another used 4x16. The support pillars have been 4x4 or 6x6.
I just got a rough idea of what could be a general proposal for removing a load bearing wall so thanks a lot. 👍🙏
Great video - thank you for explaining! really helps visualize whats going on during a wall-teardown/load bearing etc
Great video. Thanks for the thorough explanations and reviewing of the steps. This is great for me to learn from and watch how its done. Thanks guys
Just wondering how you know what size Glulam and posts to use. Was it engineered or is there some way to figure that out?
I was also surprised you didn't use Simpson brackets to secure the posts to the beam. Do you just know what to use based on experience or is engineering required in these situations?
Pretty informative video for the average homeowner who dosent frame for a living. Usually in California a beam being installed like this requires and Simpson eccq at both ends. Also would’ve installed blocks against the beam as you cut the sheathing back so now it rest on the joists only. Also would’ve doubled or tripled the last shoring stud as a precaution never know how much weight one beam is holding
Excellent feedback. Thank you so much for you interest in the channel. We are Grateful!
Nice! Curious what the orange line is there. Some sort of water lines protection im assuming?
Can you explain the weight displacement? I've heard this can be an issue as well, especially 2nd floors
Awesome. Does anyone know if this can this be done with *two* perpendicular walls that meet at the same corner?
Great job guys .I need to remove a 15 foot block wall to make a bigger/larger kitchen in my single story house. I noticed that splice Joists are resting on the wall. I know I would need a 15 ft beam to support/replace the block wall that's a load bearing wall. Question: what size beam(4+4 or 6+6) would be best. I will be using treated pine for the beam . Thank you.
Contact a structural engineer
Great video, super informative. Ear protection guys!
Great tutorial and teamwork, thanks . 👍
This is actually a really well done, well edited, interesting and informative video.
Great video, very helpful. For existing home with load bearing wall, Can you join two small beams using metal connector between the two together to make one long beam to get rid of a column holding up the weight?
Hi there! We would always refer any type of structural modification work to a licensed structural engineer. That being said, it sounds like the only way to achieve what you are describing would be to connect a metal beam together, otherwise one continuous wood (or engineered wood) beam would be required. Hope that helps. When in doubt, refer to a licensed professional who specializes in structural engineering!
Best and most informative video about Removing a load bearing wall. How much this job could cost?
Thank you! It really depends on your region and obviously other factors but a safe bet would be to set aside 5-10k for a job of this scope.
So was the wall above not load bearing? You cut the joists, sill plate, and studs of the upper wall; what kept that wall in place prior to putting the beam in?
Hello, thanks for your interest in our channel. Yes, it was a load bearing wall and we installed a temporary shoring wall to support the weight. Please re-watch the first half of the video!
@@grantmaurybuilds I understood the shoring wall and all that. You cut out a section of the rim joist and then cut out the sill plate above that and a section of the studs. What was keeping the wall above the rim joist that you removed supported?
@@christopherstanesa9473What part of the country are you in. Looking for help
@@christopherstanesa9473 The upstairs wall was supported by good luck, crossed fingers and a bit of prayer to the Gods
@@christopherstanesa9473looks like the new beam would be the new support , if there’s any weight coming down from the wall?
Great tutorial on this. I’m looking to install structural beam for exact purpose you just did…open wall between kitchen and living room. My existing wall is longer (like 20-22’). Will I need extra post to support extra length of beam?
Great question - not entirely sure on this. Depends on existing conditions, loads, etc. We would recommend having a licensed structural engineer take a peek to advise. Thank you for your interest in the channel!
Me thinks you want more info. age weight support out of sight usages. Etc.
Your team does amazing job. I wish we have team like this in Portland Oregon to work on our project .
Thank you! Glad you enjoy the content!
Great tutorial!…as a remodeling contractor I’ve been involved in this many ,many times.Curious as to the engineering that went into your project…size of beam,loads on posts,what’s under posts,etc.
Thank you so much for the interest in the channel! Great questions, our structural engineer visited the site before hand and calculated what reinforcements (foundation, posts, beams, etc.) would be necessary given the existing conditions vs new proposed wall removal.
@@grantmaurybuilds, how long (days or hours) it took to do this?
Shay checking in from Dublin Ireland thank you perfect
Thanks a lot guys for an incredible tutorial. This was such a detailed walk-through with appropriate pauses to explain critical steps. I’m in the process of doing this on a future home and can’t wait to references video along the way. Thank you so much. 🙏🙏🙏
This was great, I felt like this is Jim Carey in another life as a contractor!❤
Kudos. This was all wood work. Question, how would you ‘ve done it opening the same kind of settings should it been a brick wall?
I got significant anxiety when your guys started removing and cutting existing framing. Haha, fantastic job! Definitely not a beginner-level DIY.
do you have a video of the footing the post are resting on? if there is a basement, how does the load travel through the floor to the basement? and also, does the basement floor have to be poured thicker to carry the load?
First time on this channel. Very good video. I hope your presentation of all your build videos are done the same way.
Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words! Yes we will strive to continue to bring you informative, entertaining content
@@grantmaurybuilds much appreciated
Excellent video. Best one I’ve seen for this job
Thank you for the positive feedback! We will continue to bring you similar videos
Great video, is really good to see professionals working
Nice and detailed video, however, what is the code for more favorable and safe support where you just added 4" of thickness!?
Nice video, explains the topic very well. This video will be used to explain the concept to a new homeowner that wants to do the same thing.
I'm not a carpenter by trade but when you cut the bottom seal for the 2nd floor the wall in the 2nd floor wasn't being supported anymore because the floor beam and floor joists got cut as well. The weight of the roof and wall in that section was just floating. Correct me if im wrong.
Thanks for your interest in our channel. We always suggest consulting with a licensed engineer before making any structural modifications to a residence
The wall that is above our beam is not load bearing as identified by our structural engineer. The beam install was to support the floor joists and beams 2x that landed on the wall we removed. Hope that helps!
I concur, there was a 2x10 beam supporting that end wall and it was removed.
I want to do construction so bad. 😢❤ This man teaches so well. Just a fountain of knowledge. 👍
Nicely done. I would love something like that done to my home. Great job guys.
excellent Video my friend , thank you
Well done, gentlemen!
Hi! This is a great video on the process. Quick question: Does this process being above a basement change anything?
If the upper floor studs are bearing on the plywood sheathing, how were you able to cut those before installing the beam, without the studs falling down?
You have to take in to account the crown of the lumber. Then now explanation of what to do with that data. Suggest cutting the lumber outside to reduce dust in the home.
Best video I have seen on removing a load bearing wall
Looks great guys!! Very informative! Thanks for the content!! I
Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial. Question, what is the metal strapping on the posts for?
Great question! The strapping that we installed at the posts is used to tie in the top plates to the posts wherever they intersect. The goal is to reinforce and strengthen the plate / post connection since we “broke” the top plate to install the posts
Hope that helps! Thank you for your interest in our channel!
Probably should have just used a post to beam connector.
Good job I like the way you guys explain the process thanks..how much would a job like that cost??
One question, what was done with the sill plate of the temp wall? Was it fastened to that finished floor in the kitchen?
The sill plate for your temp wall does not have to be fastened to the floor, although if you feel the need to do so it is not a bad idea. In this project we snuggly installed our temp studs to create a nice fit to ensure no movement would occur. We recommend always exercising caution and safety when working with temp support. It doesn’t ever hurt to add additional support if you feel the need to do so! Hope that helps - we are grateful for your interest in the channel!
Yes best video on load bearing walls. Thanks
We put an exposed beam like yours in a room addition .Our building inspector almost denied our permit because we drilled a hole for the wiring of a ceiling fan . He said you never drill a hole through a beam because it weakens the structure of said beam . He said to hide the wiring behind and down the beam instead of drilling through a beam .
Make sense because it does
Not a bad job...it would be nice to know if this house has a basement. BTW do you use a structural engineer prior to the projects?
I noticed there was no extra support given below the floor. Is this because you were working on a slab? If the foundation was post & pier, you would probably need to add extra p/p below the floor directly under those 4x6 posts, correct? Appreciate the content, very well done.
Loved the video, nicely done and very informative. Question about the posts supporting the ends of the beam. Was the slab already reinforced at the location of the posts and capable of bearing the weight instead of the weight being distributed across the wall? How did you determine the capability of the slab to accommodate the concentrated weight?
Thank you! Yes we addressed this in the earlier phase of construction. We recommend consulting with a structural engineer when making any modifications to existing conditions.
Very cool video. U explain everything to a T. Good work guys.
On the supporting wall how much more do you add to the studs from plate to plate? Just to be sure it doesn’t drop
Sorry, not sure exactly what you mean by this? Could you clarify please. Thank you
When putting the structural beam do you always use Nails or can you use structural screws. I’m thinking doing this. Does it make a difference if the house on slab or pier and beam.
Thank you for posting great job !
Great video ,saludos compadre.
How are you carrying the roof load that is sitting on the upper wall? you cut the 4 king studs and they are floating. Is there no roof load on that wall?
I dont know if the house has a basement but how did you handle the large point loads at each end of the new beam and carry the load down to the foundations?
What type of wood is that new beam? Doesn’t look like pine. It’s awesome looking!
It’s a PSL. Parallel Strand Lumber. Similar to an LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) but instead of thin layers, it’s small strands/strips of lumber.
On the left hand side several studs are cut, are these not all part of the same load bearing wall? Why are they not supported then? What am I missing?
In the video we detail which direction the rafters and joists are pointing, therefore indicating which part of the wall is actually load bearing. Hopefully this or the video answers your question.
Can the house be sold with this modification without Permit? I’m thinking to remove the dry wall on a load bearing wall, but I will keep the studs untouched, wrap studs with cosmetic wood profile and make the rooms semi open
We always recommend asking your local building department if there are any requirements. Every region varies. Good luck and thanks for watching!
You're a pro. Great video
Excellent video. Went to sub and saw you only had 911! Surprising to see how well the video is on a new channel. Keep up the great work.
Thanks! We are a new channel but will continue to bring value packed content and get better in the progress.
why not add braces to the temporary studs for extra support idont know whats above that ceiling but what if the studs bend over said weight? a brace would spread the load out more right?
Fantastic video, can you pless tell me the measures of that beam?
Is it necessary to dig the floor and put the post in concrete?
How did this pass an inspection?
Maybe I missed something but that LVL beam went up to support not the floor but the studs on the exposed 2nd floor wall. You can see the planning time stamp at 9m58s (for about 1s it goes by really fast, when they show the cut away sections to put up the 14" LVL beam) AND then the positioning of the LVL beam at 12m50s when they hoist it up and it snugs up against the studs. So it's not actually supporting the 2nd floor directly; instead it is pushing up against the wall framing. Yes, they do tie the joists to the LVL beam but I am not trusting those ties to be sufficient. They're a focusing point for a failure. Back to the LVL beam and the 2nd floor wall framing -> the framing is attached to the 2nd floor but the direction of the force from the framing is to pull up on the floor instead of push up against the floor's load.
Thanks for this Video, i learned some good tips from you guys.
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful
Did you have to shore up the foundation or footer with all that extra weight going down those two posts?
We put up 2 glue laminate beams this year - one to support about half the width of the end of the house ‘cause we were extending the length of that room by 16’ and then tieing another 14’ beam into that one ‘cause we were widening the existing room by 2’. The second beam is load bearing.
Our 2 beams look nothig like the beam they are installing. What type of beam is that? It almost looks like an OSB beam.
I would have used three 7” or 8” timber screws in each support post to ensure a rock solid hold to the existing framing [and thus no need for the strapping]. My experience is that nails tend to work loose as wood dries and thus shrinks a bit; I like to reinforce with construction screws of the appropriate size. In fact I used Simpson construction screws in 1/2 of the holes on my beam hanger.
My 0.02¢
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okay but where did the load for the 2nd floor "wall framing" temporarily go to? how did you remove all the 2nd floor stud support?
Curious what a ballpark cost for a project like this would be? I've got something I'm mulling over in my home thats very similar to this.
It really depends on your region and other factors. I would say a safe bet with a trusted builder should be around 5-10k. Hope that helps!
Whats the cost to do something like this a 20ft beam 2 story home so floor joist above and who would i get to do that. thanks so much nice video of construction harmony.
do you have to re enforce the slab where the support side beam was installed
but whats underneath ? Did you guys did concrete and support? each side?
Load bearing walls always require footing supports on either end. Always check with a licensed structural engineer before making any modifications to existing conditions. That will ensure all is being performed safely and professionally. Appreciate your feedback and interest on the channel.
What should I do about making the temporary walls on top of laminate flooring? Is there any way to do these without nailing into the laminate? What is the solution here?
It is possible to install temporary walls (shoring) without securing the plates to the floor. Just make sure that your studs are plumb in both directions (or very close to plumb), and snugly fit so that the plates don’t slip or move. Remember to always double and triple check all your existing framing and configuration before removing any load bearing members. Hope that helps - we appreciate your interest in our channel!
Okay I have a question. I want to do this on a mobile home, a single wide mobile home. I want to remove a 10 ft piece of wall and add on to my dining room. All of this applies to what I'm going to do except for on a mobile home the floor is junk already so if I'm going to transfer all the way to the roof onto the two poles on each end on the floor it seems like it's going to be a problem. Therefore I think I still need to do something on the floor. Maybe even put some sort of beam similar to the top down there or something. What are your thoughts on that?
In all honest transparency, we do not have a lot of experience working on mobile homes for this type of service. We would recommend having a licensed engineer take a look to advise in regards. Thank you for your interest in our channel!
@@grantmaurybuilds, ok, thanks. That's out of my budget. I'm talking about a single wide mobile home. I'll figure it out.
This is great. What's the typical price range of opening up a room like this?
Love the video but im used to be in safety in au and there is soooo many bad practice methods, not in the work though which is good but when i saw the you sharpening the chisel with the grinder 😳
Thank you for your interest in our channel!!!
Such a great video. Thanks
so now that you have installed a beam you have created substantial point loads at both ends. I see you put posts at each end but did you address the point loads in the foundation or what ever the floor is constructed of ?
Yes! We previously addressed this in earlier phase of construction.
A good Contractor will always check loads to the foundation!
@@grantmaurybuilds yes i knida figured i missed that, couldn't imagine you didnt know better.
So was the existing foundation adequate or did you have to strengthen the foundation?
@@biggunschow Reinforcing the foundation is always per engineer recommendations. Thank you so much for the interest in the channel!
Very good video. Good job!
Just said hello with load transfer through the slab? Did you see how deep that slab was or just like every other hack and didn’t worry about a footer where all that load transfer goes?
Were footings required in the basement?