This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
This WAS a load-bearing wall. You can tell by the direction of the ceiling joists, (where you improperly installed a "support beam" in the attic). The load needs to be supported at the opening (underneath) with a temporary wall. Then double jack studs on each side of the opening to support a double 2"x10" header (with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between them). Literally, 2 hours on the internet researching would've steered you in the correct direction. Hope it holds and your mud doesn't crack later.
You can absolutely support ceiling joist like he had shown however what he installed I would not call excessively over engineered. With the naked eye it appears a couple hem fir 2x8's with (2) H2.5A's each side. Those clips will probably be okay however the beam is most likely lacking in strength. He should have paid the couple hundred dollars or so for a structural engineer to look at is.
@@GMLondonlook up “door headers” and you can learn more- but the 1/2inch softer wood used between studs in common framing. there are a few reasons, which make it a standard practice in constructing the proper support inside the wall frame.
Both ends of a header should sit on top of a vertical support. If you don't have a vertical support under the horizontal, then you are relying on the fastener to keep everything in place, which should not be done.
Wow i cannot believe what i just saw....glad your ok and the video came out....Ladies and Gentlemen watch this video closely and understand how not to remove a wall. Al ways go into the roof, locate the load bearing studs and secure heavy props underneath in the living room, as those load bearing studs are supporting the weight of the roof of the house.
Agree, always support from below. He was depending on the shear strength of screw to hod the joists in place. No where near as "massively engineered" as claimed. Screws a notoriously weak in shear. He also removed a 2x10 or 2x12 header about 4' long over the door and replaced it with a 4x4 more than 3 times as long. Structurally the 4x4 has less than 25% of the strength of the original foo header.
I would have definitely devised a way to support that header with a trimmer on both sides. A span of that size with only a 4x4 isn’t enough. Code says any opening over 5 feet needs 2 trimmers on each side. If an inspector saw that, they would not be happy at all. Props to doing it. Consult with a pro.
Already voiced in comments below but if anyone is watching this is a great video on how NOT to replace a load bearing wall. Building a 'overengineered' header in the ceiling does nothing for transferring load to the basement. The new beam is not in any way properly supported and should have been steel (to keep it small) or stacked LVL lumber (Laminated Veneer structural lumber). Most importantly - should be sitting on jacks/kings or posts on either side with enough load bearing strength to transfer the new opening weight to the foundation. The end result looks great! If doing this yourself - please consult an engineer to do this properly.
Interesting to watch how you did the job while I was taking a break doing a similar job. I was most happy with the last part, real time, and the recognizable communication with your partner LOL!! Back to work now, with new inspiration. Thanks for posting!
This video could cost someone a lot, including their life. Always have a wall evaluated by an engineer to make sure it's not load bearing. If it is load bearing I'd recommend hiring someone qualified to do the renovation work. Always be cautious in remodeling work. Stay safe.
That’s why he installed a large support beam in the ceiling prior to commencing. It’s not a double story house, but the beam installed is way over specked which is a good thing. Nothing Dangerous here
Nice job! It would be interesting to know more about the beam in the attic. People are freaking out over it but it could be ok, depending on what exactly you did. If I dare nitpick more than people are already doing, those walls often contains asbestos. I advise wearing a p100 respirator, zoning off your renos with plastic sheets and venting the dust outside with box fans.
This is a great video how not to do it, not using a purple lead certified respirator, need at least 2 x 2x8 beam for the header and it needs to be lifted by jack studs before being screwed in. need at least 2 or 3 jack studs attatched properly to bottom plate.
My only suggestion are that even if it doesn't appear to be load bearing, it's better to rebuild it as such just in case and that you can lay down cheap plastic or canvas sheeting over your protective layer so that you can just pick it up and haul the fallen drywall away. My mom does this because she hates working in messy spaces.
This is such a dangerous video. The span here is so small that there likely won't be a failure, but you extrapolate this over a bigger span and someone heeds this guide, big trouble...
Ok I’m no expert and haven’t done any of this DIY stuff before but I’m glad you said that cuz even I was thinking wouldn’t make sense for it to be underneath.
Yeah. From the support beam in the attic not actually doing anything and the header being undersized and the jack posts not being built correctly. You are very lucky that was was not load bearing.
@@cna5018 It is definitely a load bearing wall. You can see that it is at 3:53 because each ceiling joists consist of two pieces of construction lumber joined at the point where he has installed his 'header beam'. In other words, the ceiling joists that run perpendicular to the 'header' he installed are supported on the wall he is removing. You can also see a vertical beam coming down from the roof at 3:51 transferring the weight of his roof to the load bearing wall he is removing. He has even tied the 'header' to this vertical support! On the left side of the opening he does install what could be construed as a jack stud before attaching a beam across the opening. However, he seems to be more concerned with installing this as a cosmetic header than as a structural piece because he thinks his header in the roof is going to work. Subsequently, at the other end of this 'accidental' structural piece he ties it in to a stud in the perpendicular wall with some lagging screws. If he had used a couple of 2x4s there instead he might have saved himself, but nope, this is a disaster waiting to happen.
Thanks for the tutorial. I wish you would've shown the floor after you took the wall down. That's what I'm worried about for mine. Did you have to piece flooring in there where the wall came up?
Anand Lucertini I was thinking the same thing...hoping it’s not a weight bearing wall...then structural support below is important too. Could’ve also used lvl, sometimes comes at 1 3/4 thick so no need for ply.
@@chalupagrande8544 yup, hopefully there is something below for point load. I mean if he was in the moment and he had 2x8's, they could've worked. What he actually should've done is look at the architectural drawings to determine what type of wall was there
Pretty sure you mean a double Jack or King stud... Cripple has nothing to do with this. Also, not sure what your codes are but you'd never get away with anything less than a doubled up 2x10 here for that span.
Nice work 👍 also If any House build before 1978 might got some asbestos and lead paint maybe need to test before start do the project. These substances can damage our lungs.
You didn't support the load correctly and that 4 x 4 stud is not holding anything up. It should touch all the beams above it. And the studs it sits on should be supported on the floor below all the way to the basement where column and a footing should be placed. The beam in the attic is not really supporting anything, it's just screwed to other framing, so the screws are holding the weight, not the beam.
that was a load bearing wall... your 4x4 header shouldve been two 2x8s with 1/2 ply between, supported on either end, and more support in your crawl space or basement. i bet you will have drywall cracking in a few months.
The trim in that house is worth more than my car. Crown molding is very expensive especiallythese days. And that stuff specifically is massive and old school. Very nice.
putting the beam holding with three screens that don't look good, suppose to be resting on top of a king stud. I think will be handy if you can get an oscillating tool to cut the plaster less mess and better straight cuts.
Something very few people consider when removing a wall..The extra weight of the beam and ceiling load is now transfered to those outside kingstuds and to the Floor. Does anyone add additional support to the floor joists?
You made it look easy. I have a very similar wall I need to remove but have been worried about 1) Crown molding 2) Electrical 3) How to patch the ceiling 4) How to match ceiling texture 5) How to roam around in the attic to reroute electrical 6) If I should leave a half wall where the fridge will be 7) If it's load bearing (90% sure it's not). I like this video because you solved 1-4 for me...may just leave a "header" to save the crown and avoid having to patch the ceiling and match the texture. Oddly, I'm more worried about getting up in the attic. Need to move all the blown in insulation to the side and cut some plywood for a walk way I presume?
That definitely was a load bearing wall. Throwing a floating header with some hurricane clips attaching said header to the ceiling joists is not at all the proper way to support that opening. Those hurricane clips are made to attatch the rafters/trusses to the exterior walls in order to keep them from lifting in extreme winds (like hurricanes/tornadoes), NOT for supporting a roof load. You seem smart, just please leave major renovations like this to professional contractors. Someone could lose their life down the line if that "header" fails.
Exactly. Luckily for me my best friend's husband is a contractor, so he's in charge of any and all wall removals in my home. There's a lot I'll tackle myself, but nothing structural.
The only load that wall was bearing is the ceiling. The exterior walls of a house carry the weight of the roof. And he added not only a beam in the attic, but a 4x4 beam as a header.
@@jmad318 that 4x4 isnt bearing any weight. He used the incorrect hangers on the header. And that wall definitely was bearing weight. He will probably get away with it, but any inspector is going to tag that
From the looks of it. That is a load bearing wall. You did not put the right size header and you would need to put more than one stud to hold up that beam. And also you would need to put a new footing underneath that stud to support the new heavier load. This is not the correct way to do it. You are risking the integrity of your house.
Ian Dang sure I saw that. But that’s not the proper way to support a wall you are not sure is a load bearing wall or not. He say in the video he is not sure it’s load bearing or not. By showing the improper way of doing it, he gives the wrong message to people in the same situation that they can put a beam on top and it will hold the house up. If he stated that he was doing it this way and that people should get the advise of a architect or engineer than it wouldn’t cause such a big backlash.
That`s the first thing I said when seen this, that is a load bearing wall and now it`s suspended from attic, not suported from beneath. Here in continenal Europe we mostly build brick houses and you cant rearange walls later as you wish so this is a beauty of wood framed houses, you can alwas rearange layout but you have to do it right way.
Do not remove a walk this way. First of all, always check if it's a load bearing wall or not, second, do not use a 4x4 as a header, must be 2 2x8's sandwiched together
In earnest, you & I are both skilfull fellas & the result looks amazing. I'm not a structural engineer but I'd go for total open-plan/ studio look, increase the property value & sell, moving quickly
A few problems here bro . To make a header you take 2 2x4 or larger studs and sandwich osb or plywood between them nailing them together . For the spanning distance in the video it's either 2x6 or 2x8's , a 4x4 isn't made for that job you need to look at the ibc tables to figure out the lumber requirements. As for the corners you need studs under the header to carry it's weight screws are not good enough . If the electrical is in the way just move it over like you did with the switches , never compromise structural integrity for speed and simplify . Other than that your finished look is great.
Liked the video. I appreciate DIY videos whether they’re done wrong or right. The best thing about TH-cam is there are very genuinely correct and helpful comments from professionals. No need the hate or stupidity comments on stuff like this. Don’t like the word salad gaslighting kamalas on biased platforms like ig fb! It’s great that he’s working and making an effort. Good job man.
Both sides of beam needed to support by post beam to support the load bearing weight. 6 inch lag screws are very strong but post beam with concrete footing would be the safest way.
Agreed. Once drywall was off, there was a header over openning, indicates load bearing and while in the attic, joist are cut and lapped together, another flag of load bearing. I did not see any joists or the old double top plate sitting on that 4x4 header... confirmed a floating header.
@@mojo5093 Typically, the easiest way to determine if a wall is load bearing is to look at the trusses/joists above the wall. If they run perpendicularly to the wall in question, theres a high chance the wall is load bearing.
this helps a lot for me because i'm renovating my room . my walk in closet is the same width of the closet but i would have to cut one piece of the wall for the length of the bed. i had just finished taking off the drywall and nails, i just didn't know what else or what to do next. thank you so much for the tips!
This was (or could be potentially) pretty dangerous. I hope you went through and redid the structural integrity of that load bearing wall. Never EVER replace a load bearing wall with a floating header unless you know what you're doing (in this case you didn't). Read the comments below, we don't want to ridicule or anything, but want safety in a (anyone's) home. This is what not to do.
@@Unkownktm if it is a bearing wall, the post which support the new beam, need reinforce the footing ( foundation) to support the load. also need metal strip to tide beam, post and footing together.
Easy clean up. . .place wooden vegetable crates at the base of the wall, as you demo the wall it falls into the crates. . .slap the lid closed and stack them at the curb for pickup.
Good job - good video - and the out-takes at the end remind us that it wasn't as easy as it first looked - I snicker at all the "you should have done this you should have done that" comments" - You did just good
You snicker at people trying to point out huge safety hazards? Sure hope people don’t watch this video and think it’s correct and someone gets killed. But keep on snickering.
You can not harrass me and my child in one room . I need a kitchen and she needs a staircase to play.in the garden downstairs.Hera and Saba you are truely gruesome
@@JulesBondTF2 That 'beam' literally carries zero load. If you can't understand how loads work and think adding that 'beam' in the attic adds any value, PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF.
@@bsiudy I mean the floor beams are clearly connected to the new beam (with questionably few screws though) , so the load over the new opening is transfered up into the beam and carried out to each side of the opening. If there are walls which are strong enough to carry the new load on each side of the opening, I don't really see the issue here.
That is not correct way to support temporary studs. It needs both vertical and lateral load support so the load would travel down. The rafters run perpendicular to the beam that is a load bearing wall.... 2x8 door header suggested it was load bearing wall...triple your studs top and sides and you'll be fine... 😅 😆 😊 DIY at it's best..
So, let me understand this...you removed approx. 8 full length 2x4 wall studs ....replaced them with a single 4x4 wood beam with no spacer blocks.. !! Where are the spacer blocks every 16 inches above that beam...and better yet why didn't you just put two 2x8 engineered header beams side by side to fill in the entire cavity height and to give support to the floor above as well as place double king and jack studs on each side... after all, you have removed all of the jack and king studs from that original opening that were providing support for the weight above....you need to put them back in... that opening will sag and crack after a few years... Notice at 10:10 that is a load support wall as the beam would rest on the brick chimney...
Is it load bearing wall? It seems to me that is weak installation . The header should be larger, and both sides support too. There is risk for settlement in this part of house.....
I'm shocked to see only a few number of comments pointing out that this renovation isn't up to code while the rest of them think this is the right way to tear down any wall.
Where I live in the US, re-moving a load-bearing wall requires a permit! That includes drawings, inspections, including consultation with a Structural Engineer ($), etc. I can't believe this didn't require a building permit ?
Just a tip: PVC electrical boxes should not be used with MC type of cable (metal flex cable). Its not code compliant. Those cables are no longer grounded. a metal box should have been used. I recommend hiring an electrician when electrical modifications are needed.
delete this video before you sell your house...4x4 for a header with no supporting studs, no king, no jack..DO NOT USE THIS VIDEO AS A TUTORIAL anyone.
@@confusedcynic9073 yea but he didnt really show the arrangement of his roof system. If I were to guess, I'd say he simply added the load of the wall to the roof system which would take away from the live load as there are no additional upright supports in compression. So hanging more weight up there would just be like adding a couple hundred pounds to your attic rafters. in the end it'll probably be fine, but its shitty work that looks nice enough, but should be corrected.
Petjr06 the problem that occurs when people install strong back headers is that you have to preload the joists while installing it. Not only was this not done but he is also supposed to have this type of work approved by a building engineer. If it fails and someone is injured or it damages houses next to his then his insurance is going to turn their backs on him.
I’m looking to open some walls and increase the size of my bathroom I have no plans on trying it myself because the house will fall lol I really wanted to see the process it looked great to me although some comments say otherwise but again I have no knowledge on how it’s done
You could have avoided most of the mess, but cutting the wall with a utility knife, then slowly pry it with a catspaw. Rock the piece of drywall back and forward and the screw will go threw it. Much cleaner.
Live in an older home (1884) can feel your pain. Obstacles: plaster and lath, balloon framing, gas pipes in walls (before electricity), studs rough cut (hand-cut not machined) - all different sizes, square nails.
Good job! Looks much better and open/updated. A Goodlife hack would be to just leave the right side. Take a few studs out of the other side to even it up, and make less work and time not dealing with that electrical. Nice drywall skills too, I'm learning as well but looks like you we ham on it :)
He touched an electrical cable with the blade when he was cutting the plaster board in the top right corner. It would be prudent to inspect the wiring from the attic or at least power down the house prior to the cutting.
That clamp to hold the drywall is simply genius. You did a great job on this project!
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
This WAS a load-bearing wall. You can tell by the direction of the ceiling joists, (where you improperly installed a "support beam" in the attic). The load needs to be supported at the opening (underneath) with a temporary wall. Then double jack studs on each side of the opening to support a double 2"x10" header (with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between them). Literally, 2 hours on the internet researching would've steered you in the correct direction. Hope it holds and your mud doesn't crack later.
You can absolutely support ceiling joist like he had shown however what he installed I would not call excessively over engineered. With the naked eye it appears a couple hem fir 2x8's with (2) H2.5A's each side. Those clips will probably be okay however the beam is most likely lacking in strength.
He should have paid the couple hundred dollars or so for a structural engineer to look at is.
Can I ask, what's the 1/2inch plywood used for please? Many thanks
@@GMLondonlook up “door headers” and you can learn more- but the 1/2inch softer wood used between studs in common framing. there are a few reasons, which make it a standard practice in constructing the proper support inside the wall frame.
Both ends of a header should sit on top of a vertical support. If you don't have a vertical support under the horizontal, then you are relying on the fastener to keep everything in place, which should not be done.
Litterally all he had to do was cut 3.5 inches off the 2x4 and his header would have sat ontop.
Wow i cannot believe what i just saw....glad your ok and the video came out....Ladies and Gentlemen watch this video closely and understand how not to remove a wall. Al ways go into the roof, locate the load bearing studs and secure heavy props underneath in the living room, as those load bearing studs are supporting the weight of the roof of the house.
Agree, always support from below. He was depending on the shear strength of screw to hod the joists in place. No where near as
"massively engineered" as claimed. Screws a notoriously weak in shear. He also removed a 2x10 or 2x12 header about 4' long over the door and replaced it with a 4x4 more than 3 times as long. Structurally the 4x4 has less than 25% of the strength of the original foo header.
Its always sexy to watch a man working with power tools and watching him break and build stuff!
@lion I meant in general you dork! Offended much?
I would have definitely devised a way to support that header with a trimmer on both sides. A span of that size with only a 4x4 isn’t enough. Code says any opening over 5 feet needs 2 trimmers on each side. If an inspector saw that, they would not be happy at all. Props to doing it.
Consult with a pro.
Great work - hoping to tackle a similar project.. Can you explain what you did to the floor under the wall that you removed?
I give you a lot of credit dude. I’m doing some renovations for the first time and I’m nervous as hell
Already voiced in comments below but if anyone is watching this is a great video on how NOT to replace a load bearing wall. Building a 'overengineered' header in the ceiling does nothing for transferring load to the basement. The new beam is not in any way properly supported and should have been steel (to keep it small) or stacked LVL lumber (Laminated Veneer structural lumber). Most importantly - should be sitting on jacks/kings or posts on either side with enough load bearing strength to transfer the new opening weight to the foundation.
The end result looks great! If doing this yourself - please consult an engineer to do this properly.
Interesting to watch how you did the job while I was taking a break doing a similar job. I was most happy with the last part, real time, and the recognizable communication with your partner LOL!! Back to work now, with new inspiration. Thanks for posting!
This video could cost someone a lot, including their life. Always have a wall evaluated by an engineer to make sure it's not load bearing. If it is load bearing I'd recommend hiring someone qualified to do the renovation work. Always be cautious in remodeling work. Stay safe.
The size of the lintel over the original doorway is a dead giveaway the wall is load bearing.
That’s why he installed a large support beam in the ceiling prior to commencing. It’s not a double story house, but the beam installed is way over specked which is a good thing. Nothing Dangerous here
@@Unkownktmdoesn’t matter how “specked” it is. It is ON TOP of the opening, thus increasing the load 😂😂
Nice job!
It would be interesting to know more about the beam in the attic. People are freaking out over it but it could be ok, depending on what exactly you did.
If I dare nitpick more than people are already doing, those walls often contains asbestos. I advise wearing a p100 respirator, zoning off your renos with plastic sheets and venting the dust outside with box fans.
Well put!
If he already posted the video that means he already did it...kinda late to put the respirator on now lol
@@hondamoto-rb6bk
As a home owner, you are never done working on your house. Maybe he will use the advice for next time.
@@okkrom it was a joke
@@hondamoto-rb6bk Im a very serious guy!
: )
Nice. Now I need to know how to fix the ceiling where the boards are.to match the reast of the ceiling.
You remind me alot of myself tackling home projects. Electrical ,sheetrock, woodwork.Bring it on.
How did you learn?
@@SimplicityBeatz TH-cam videos, google, and just trying it.
Sheet rocks one thing, call a licensed electrician .
This is a great video how not to do it, not using a purple lead certified respirator, need at least 2 x 2x8 beam for the header and it needs to be lifted by jack studs before being screwed in. need at least 2 or 3 jack studs attatched properly to bottom plate.
My only suggestion are that even if it doesn't appear to be load bearing, it's better to rebuild it as such just in case and that you can lay down cheap plastic or canvas sheeting over your protective layer so that you can just pick it up and haul the fallen drywall away. My mom does this because she hates working in messy spaces.
Taking that wall down was a great move. It looks amazing now
Good job except if that was a load bearing wall the support has to come from underneath not over.
This is such a dangerous video. The span here is so small that there likely won't be a failure, but you extrapolate this over a bigger span and someone heeds this guide, big trouble...
Ok I’m no expert and haven’t done any of this DIY stuff before but I’m glad you said that cuz even I was thinking wouldn’t make sense for it to be underneath.
Yeah. From the support beam in the attic not actually doing anything and the header being undersized and the jack posts not being built correctly. You are very lucky that was was not load bearing.
@@cna5018 It is definitely a load bearing wall. You can see that it is at 3:53 because each ceiling joists consist of two pieces of construction lumber joined at the point where he has installed his 'header beam'. In other words, the ceiling joists that run perpendicular to the 'header' he installed are supported on the wall he is removing. You can also see a vertical beam coming down from the roof at 3:51 transferring the weight of his roof to the load bearing wall he is removing. He has even tied the 'header' to this vertical support! On the left side of the opening he does install what could be construed as a jack stud before attaching a beam across the opening. However, he seems to be more concerned with installing this as a cosmetic header than as a structural piece because he thinks his header in the roof is going to work. Subsequently, at the other end of this 'accidental' structural piece he ties it in to a stud in the perpendicular wall with some lagging screws. If he had used a couple of 2x4s there instead he might have saved himself, but nope, this is a disaster waiting to happen.
Thanks for the tutorial. I wish you would've shown the floor after you took the wall down. That's what I'm worried about for mine. Did you have to piece flooring in there where the wall came up?
should've used two laminated 2x8's with 1/2" ply between. Also needs at least 3" of end bearing which means a double cripple
Anand Lucertini I was thinking the same thing...hoping it’s not a weight bearing wall...then structural support below is important too. Could’ve also used lvl, sometimes comes at 1 3/4 thick so no need for ply.
Always a pro some where in the comment section
@@dukenukem8493 well when you do this for a living
@@chalupagrande8544 yup, hopefully there is something below for point load. I mean if he was in the moment and he had 2x8's, they could've worked. What he actually should've done is look at the architectural drawings to determine what type of wall was there
Pretty sure you mean a double Jack or King stud... Cripple has nothing to do with this.
Also, not sure what your codes are but you'd never get away with anything less than a doubled up 2x10 here for that span.
Nice work 👍 also If any House build before 1978 might got some asbestos and lead paint maybe need to test before start do the project. These substances can damage our lungs.
Awesome project, and we'll edited with good explanation of each step. Wife was right, crown moulding is worth protecting, beautiful.
You didn't support the load correctly and that 4 x 4 stud is not holding anything up. It should touch all the beams above it. And the studs it sits on should be supported on the floor below all the way to the basement where column and a footing should be placed. The beam in the attic is not really supporting anything, it's just screwed to other framing, so the screws are holding the weight, not the beam.
that was a load bearing wall... your 4x4 header shouldve been two 2x8s with 1/2 ply between, supported on either end, and more support in your crawl space or basement. i bet you will have drywall cracking in a few months.
The trim in that house is worth more than my car. Crown molding is very expensive especiallythese days. And that stuff specifically is massive and old school. Very nice.
You couldn't tell if it was a load bearing wall from being in the attic?
putting the beam holding with three screens that don't look good, suppose to be resting on top of a king stud. I think will be handy if you can get an oscillating tool to cut the plaster less mess and better straight cuts.
Something very few people consider when removing a wall..The extra weight of the beam and ceiling load is now transfered to those outside kingstuds and to the Floor. Does anyone add additional support to the floor joists?
You made it look easy. I have a very similar wall I need to remove but have been worried about 1) Crown molding 2) Electrical 3) How to patch the ceiling 4) How to match ceiling texture 5) How to roam around in the attic to reroute electrical 6) If I should leave a half wall where the fridge will be 7) If it's load bearing (90% sure it's not). I like this video because you solved 1-4 for me...may just leave a "header" to save the crown and avoid having to patch the ceiling and match the texture. Oddly, I'm more worried about getting up in the attic. Need to move all the blown in insulation to the side and cut some plywood for a walk way I presume?
That definitely was a load bearing wall. Throwing a floating header with some hurricane clips attaching said header to the ceiling joists is not at all the proper way to support that opening. Those hurricane clips are made to attatch the rafters/trusses to the exterior walls in order to keep them from lifting in extreme winds (like hurricanes/tornadoes), NOT for supporting a roof load. You seem smart, just please leave major renovations like this to professional contractors. Someone could lose their life down the line if that "header" fails.
Exactly. Luckily for me my best friend's husband is a contractor, so he's in charge of any and all wall removals in my home. There's a lot I'll tackle myself, but nothing structural.
The only load that wall was bearing is the ceiling. The exterior walls of a house carry the weight of the roof. And he added not only a beam in the attic, but a 4x4 beam as a header.
@@jmad318 that 4x4 isnt bearing any weight. He used the incorrect hangers on the header. And that wall definitely was bearing weight. He will probably get away with it, but any inspector is going to tag that
Well there's no way he'll get sued later down the road because there is no proof he did it....oh wait....
Just caught: "I took this opportunity to heighten and widen the opening into the kitchen" aka remove the header and studs hahaha
Awesome house... hope you post pictures of it completed. Thanks for sharing
From the looks of it. That is a load bearing wall. You did not put the right size header and you would need to put more than one stud to hold up that beam. And also you would need to put a new footing underneath that stud to support the new heavier load. This is not the correct way to do it. You are risking the integrity of your house.
yes, birds too.
Yep if it was your roof would have ur lucky
yea he put a beam up in the roof dude. did you not watch to pay attention lol
Ian Dang sure I saw that. But that’s not the proper way to support a wall you are not sure is a load bearing wall or not. He say in the video he is not sure it’s load bearing or not. By showing the improper way of doing it, he gives the wrong message to people in the same situation that they can put a beam on top and it will hold the house up. If he stated that he was doing it this way and that people should get the advise of a architect or engineer than it wouldn’t cause such a big backlash.
That`s the first thing I said when seen this, that is a load bearing wall and now it`s suspended from attic, not suported from beneath. Here in continenal Europe we mostly build brick houses and you cant rearange walls later as you wish so this is a beauty of wood framed houses, you can alwas rearange layout but you have to do it right way.
Really enjoyed your video buddy. That did make a big change in the appearance. Way to go!
Do not remove a walk this way. First of all, always check if it's a load bearing wall or not, second, do not use a 4x4 as a header, must be 2 2x8's sandwiched together
I’ve watched this 2 times because I really am impressed .... good job !
impressive amount of willful neglect?
Great I wish we had TH-cam when I was younger we learned on the job, great to see young people take care of there own. Awesome job!
In earnest, you & I are both skilfull fellas & the result looks amazing.
I'm not a structural engineer but I'd go for total open-plan/ studio look, increase the property value & sell, moving quickly
A few problems here bro .
To make a header you take 2 2x4 or larger studs and sandwich osb or plywood between them nailing them together .
For the spanning distance in the video it's either 2x6 or 2x8's , a 4x4 isn't made for that job you need to look at the ibc tables to figure out the lumber requirements.
As for the corners you need studs under the header to carry it's weight screws are not good enough .
If the electrical is in the way just move it over like you did with the switches , never compromise structural integrity for speed and simplify .
Other than that your finished look is great.
Liked the video. I appreciate DIY videos whether they’re done wrong or right. The best thing about TH-cam is there are very genuinely correct and helpful comments from professionals. No need the hate or stupidity comments on stuff like this. Don’t like the word salad gaslighting kamalas on biased platforms like ig fb! It’s great that he’s working and making an effort. Good job man.
Both sides of beam needed to support by post beam to support the load bearing weight. 6 inch lag screws are very strong but post beam with concrete footing would be the safest way.
What holding the joists up above the 4x4? You ripped it all out and then just spanned from one wall the the other!
nothing
You took out some major support, and replace it with a floating header.
Agreed.
Once drywall was off, there was a header over openning, indicates load bearing and while in the attic, joist are cut and lapped together, another flag of load bearing.
I did not see any joists or the old double top plate sitting on that 4x4 header... confirmed a floating header.
Def
This video is beyond idiotic
how do you know that it's a load bearing wall?
@@mojo5093 Typically, the easiest way to determine if a wall is load bearing is to look at the trusses/joists above the wall. If they run perpendicularly to the wall in question, theres a high chance the wall is load bearing.
this helps a lot for me because i'm renovating my room . my walk in closet is the same width of the closet but i would have to cut one piece of the wall for the length of the bed. i had just finished taking off the drywall and nails, i just didn't know what else or what to do next. thank you so much for the tips!
I couldn't do this if my life depended on it. Nice job.
Oh my God nice job your house is your record now I wonder what is before
Thinking of removing a wall very impressive thank you so much for top tips :)
This was (or could be potentially) pretty dangerous. I hope you went through and redid the structural integrity of that load bearing wall. Never EVER replace a load bearing wall with a floating header unless you know what you're doing (in this case you didn't). Read the comments below, we don't want to ridicule or anything, but want safety in a (anyone's) home. This is what not to do.
Nothing dangerous, he installed a massive load bearing beam in the roof before taking the wall down. Job well done
@@Unkownktm if it is a bearing wall, the post which support the new beam, need reinforce the footing ( foundation) to support the load. also need metal strip to tide beam, post and footing together.
what type of wood was that? the wood you used for the spacers before putting on the drywall to get it to lay flush against the wall.
*Legend has it, he was never seen coming out of the house again!*
legend has it
@@tasangerbakes ?
@@jimaragon2110 u fixed it
@@tasangerbakes i believe you. Hes the type of guy to play dumb instead of saying thanks.
@@FreeStuffPlease smh
Easy clean up. . .place wooden vegetable crates at the base of the wall, as you demo the wall it falls into the crates. . .slap the lid closed and stack them at the curb for pickup.
Good job - good video - and the out-takes at the end remind us that it wasn't as easy as it first looked - I snicker at all the "you should have done this you should have done that" comments" - You did just good
Stick to what you do best. Animation can't be easy and your'e pretty good at it.
lol as if someone in Animation would know if he did it correctly or not. You're not an engineer dude.
You snicker at people trying to point out huge safety hazards? Sure hope people don’t watch this video and think it’s correct and someone gets killed. But keep on snickering.
Dude great video! Very helpful. Also thought it was cool that u showed the behind the scenes at the end.
Always use a voltage sniffer,,,,even if the breakers are off......never know what some idiot did before you....never trust anyone.
Good information! Thx for posting👍🏼
The wife did before he worked on it
Even more of an idiot if you only have a “voltage sniffer”
You can not harrass me and my child in one room . I need a kitchen and she needs a staircase to play.in the garden downstairs.Hera and Saba you are truely gruesome
lol did you find out the hard way?
This was so satisfying to watch in fast motion! Great job!
Wow. This just proved everyone with okay camera skills can be a DIY TH-camr. You got my view and a comment but I won't be back.
curious.....at 1:24 you used the sawzall and zipped a line straight over where the outlet was. Was that a blind cut?
who says millenials dont have skills?!! this guy is here to prove everyone wrong....
most millennials don't have these skills, so they watch youtube videos where they learn the wrong way of doing things =)
No one says that. You're an idiot.
Good job man looks sick
"It was unclear if this was a major supporting wall or not". Why was it unclear, or did you just not bother to look and/or probe?
Does the help come with a caring bodyguard for my child
Did you guys not see 1:59? There's a huge beam carrying the load above the opening. So there's no need for a header below it.
@@JulesBondTF2 That 'beam' literally carries zero load. If you can't understand how loads work and think adding that 'beam' in the attic adds any value, PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF.
@@bsiudy I mean the floor beams are clearly connected to the new beam (with questionably few screws though) , so the load over the new opening is transfered up into the beam and carried out to each side of the opening. If there are walls which are strong enough to carry the new load on each side of the opening, I don't really see the issue here.
@@JulesBondTF2 You don't see the issue? LOL
Great vid, no wasting time, fat trimming, get to the point. excellent work.
That is not correct way to support temporary studs. It needs both vertical and lateral load support so the load would travel down. The rafters run perpendicular to the beam that is a load bearing wall.... 2x8 door header suggested it was load bearing wall...triple your studs top and sides and you'll be fine... 😅 😆 😊 DIY at it's best..
SC 03 needs 4x12 with 4x4 studs
SC 03 shut up Meg
@@GODofDeeStruction what you talking about Willis?
I am interested to see step by step, how you made the switches light connection.🤓🙏🙏🙏
So, let me understand this...you removed approx. 8 full length 2x4 wall studs ....replaced them with a single 4x4 wood beam with no spacer blocks.. !! Where are the spacer blocks every 16 inches above that beam...and better yet why didn't you just put two 2x8 engineered header beams side by side to fill in the entire cavity height and to give support to the floor above as well as place double king and jack studs on each side... after all, you have removed all of the jack and king studs from that original opening that were providing support for the weight above....you need to put them back in... that opening will sag and crack after a few years... Notice at 10:10 that is a load support wall as the beam would rest on the brick chimney...
Is it load bearing wall? It seems to me that is weak installation . The header should be larger, and both sides support too. There is risk for settlement in this part of house.....
I'm shocked to see only a few number of comments pointing out that this renovation isn't up to code while the rest of them think this is the right way to tear down any wall.
great work man. I thought of removing a bedroom wall and turn it into a living room, but after seeing so much work involved, maybe later.
Where I live in the US, re-moving a load-bearing wall requires a permit! That includes drawings, inspections, including consultation with a Structural Engineer ($), etc.
I can't believe this didn't require a building permit ?
Not when you are doing it in your mom's house.
It does, he just didn't get one... I don't get permits either.
Nice work where u located need some work
Should have bagged off part of the house to protect it from the drywall dust Ect...
Painter's plastic, tape it floor to ceiling.
This is so satisfying
Ben, I am loving these videos! They are very neat and interesting to watch!
Just a tip: PVC electrical boxes should not be used with MC type of cable (metal flex cable). Its not code compliant. Those cables are no longer grounded. a metal box should have been used. I recommend hiring an electrician when electrical modifications are needed.
If you don’t know what a load bearing wall is or how to tell them you should probably stop ripping walls out until you know.
How do you determine if it's load bearing?
Taylormade2350 yes im an architect and im shook.
Thank you for the fast forward but clear audit. I have no patience. Great job
It's crazy of how messy it gets but it makes you feel proud of such a different you make in your own home....nice work btw....
Thanks for the video! What tool did you use @1:13? Thanks!
HMM YES IM WANTING TO GO FOR AN OPEN CONCEPT HERE
Curious to know if you did any Asbestos testing before knocking out those old walls?
delete this video before you sell your house...4x4 for a header with no supporting studs, no king, no jack..DO NOT USE THIS VIDEO AS A TUTORIAL anyone.
I wonder if his insurance would use this video against him when he claims..
That was my first reaction too a 4x4 with no support is useless but he did put a support beam in the attic.
@@confusedcynic9073 yea but he didnt really show the arrangement of his roof system. If I were to guess, I'd say he simply added the load of the wall to the roof system which would take away from the live load as there are no additional upright supports in compression. So hanging more weight up there would just be like adding a couple hundred pounds to your attic rafters. in the end it'll probably be fine, but its shitty work that looks nice enough, but should be corrected.
but it is on trusses not a cut and stack so that's not a load bearing wall. Just look at 2:00 mark, theres no load
@@Natedoc808 what are trusses? Sorry I’m learning. So he did it wrong?
How did you fix that part of the floor where the wall was on ?
Love the videos, keep em coming
Very nice very well explained. One man
machine
Lmao.....love the bloopers at the end of the video.
I want to get someone to do the same,, is it safe for the house structure to do so ,, how could I determine whether it is safe or not?
10:50 sounds like the dude was taking a dump
hahahahaha
You are natural funny director . Multitalent man .
4x4’s are not load bearing, might wanna fix that before you get someone hurt.
Yeah the header for that span should have been two 2x8s and half inch plywood spiked together.
Scary.
That header job will have to be fixed, should be supported by posts, by not three screws.
He installed beam in the attic, it works too 1:54
Petjr06 the problem that occurs when people install strong back headers is that you have to preload the joists while installing it. Not only was this not done but he is also supposed to have this type of work approved by a building engineer. If it fails and someone is injured or it damages houses next to his then his insurance is going to turn their backs on him.
I’m looking to open some walls and increase the size of my bathroom I have no plans on trying it myself because the house will fall lol I really wanted to see the process it looked great to me although some comments say otherwise but again I have no knowledge on how it’s done
Man look at all the expert youtube remodelers coming out of the woodwork...
Great job man!
what lumber did you use to support (beam)?
You could have avoided most of the mess, but cutting the wall with a utility knife, then slowly pry it with a catspaw. Rock the piece of drywall back and forward and the screw will go threw it. Much cleaner.
Live in an older home (1884) can feel your pain. Obstacles: plaster and lath, balloon framing, gas pipes in walls (before electricity), studs rough cut (hand-cut not machined) - all different sizes, square nails.
Instead of trying to match jagged cuts why not just square off the pieces that were broken off?
i think they did the "lets not make smart choices" challenge
Good job! Looks much better and open/updated. A Goodlife hack would be to just leave the right side. Take a few studs out of the other side to even it up, and make less work and time not dealing with that electrical. Nice drywall skills too, I'm learning as well but looks like you we ham on it :)
you're a stuntman? well that explains EVERYTHING!!!
You are an electrician!! Awesome!
When your cutting the wall you need to be careful because if you break the gas line or electrical line.
He touched an electrical cable with the blade when he was cutting the plaster board in the top right corner. It would be prudent to inspect the wiring from the attic or at least power down the house prior to the cutting.
👍 did you end up doing a mini wine cellar?
Always make sure it's not a load bearing wall.
how?
@@aFewBitsShort by removing the wall first to see if the ceiling collapses
@@aFewBitsShort by going to the attic and seeing which way the joists run.
Fo you have to pull permits for this?