Hey thank you I didn't even notice that when I put it back together. Mine was still leaking after I replaced the gaskets and I thought I was going to have to replace the whole flush valve but I read your comment and it hasn't leaked yet after I lined those notches
@@johnathonmarin639 thank you! I installed a gasket last night and it started leaking again. I was ticked off. Didn’t know about matching the parts up. Took it apart and did and so far no more leaks.
Excellent! I needed to replace the gasket which has accumulated some weird stuff (pinkish color) that is causing a hard to push handle flushing action. Off to Plumbing Parts Pro to buy the replacement gasket! Thank you!
I have this kind of flush valve , that came with my new American standard toilet. What I am having a problem with , it flushes so fast the the toilet bowl doesn't get cleaned. I am going to check the water level to see if that is the problem. Is there anything else that cause this problem ?
I bought a Champion 4 about 10 years ago, and it started leaking last year. I replaced the seal, and it still leaked, so I replaced the entire assembly. It lasted a year, and started leaking again. So I replaced the seal, and it still leaks. a commenter on another video said if the thumbscrew is too tight it will deform the gasket and cause a leak, so I loosened it and just snugged it finger tight. It still leaks. I'm not about to keep throwing good money after bad on this thing. What else can I do?
Nice, thanks! Wish you had shown the complete replacement tho and removed the tank as well..one question, since you have to remove the tank to replace this thing, do you recommend going ahead and replacing the Tank to Bowl Coupling Kit as well since you have the tank off anyway? If so, part number?? Thanks!
Good video. My Am Std 4225A tank does not have a black thumbscrew on top of the poppet valve, so I see no way to replace the gasket. The current gasket is loose and falls down during the flush, preventing the valve from sealing properly. Any ideas?
Does this entire part have to replaced or just the gasket, when the toilet runs every now and then from some lost water. Or is it just the gasket that needs replacing? Can this be bought at Lowe's or does it have to ordered from American Standard. I know absolutely nothing about fixing toilets. Thanks.
Like the toilet and the flush. The blue seal is the problem. After a time, sometimes a little as 6 months the translucent blue seal develops a gas bubble and lifts the edge to allow the seal to leak causing ghost flushes. The is true with American Standard and Fluidmaster flush valve seals. Looks like a chemical problem with the material and that should have been addressed by now. Gary Johnson Just replaced it again 9/25/2020
What would you suggest, Im looking for a powerful flushing toilet, I live in the UK and was thinking of importing the chmpion4 or Viper etc, a local plumber told me that a high cistern and basic toilet may work better or do the job of flushing golf balls etc, passing the no clogging tests
My toilet water intake is divided int two parts small for rim flush I think and large for main flush Does the tank assembly on the flush tower have to be aligned in a special way to let water I to the rim flush area ???
Is there anyway to make it so the valve doesn’t fully close until all the water in the tank is drained? The valve closes about .5-1” from the water draining fully. Essentially how do you make a one tap flush more like a hold down flush?
I am currently unaware of a way to make it flush more water with this system. It's designed to flush a certain amount. However, depending on the age of toilet and if you have a 1.28 gallon per flush, you may be able to replace the flush valve with a 1.6gallon unit.
Same here. NEVER have I had to disassemble a toilet to replace a flapper. In my situation the blue gasket is like new, after 12 years. However the green plastic top n bottom pieces have disintegrated. So I’m forced to replace the whole unit. Trying to remove the tank is not easy. It’s easier to pull the whole toilet up to remove the damn thing. At this point, it’s easier to just get a new toilet. If it comes to that, it WILL NOT be an American Standard.
Note: I have the same toilet on another floor and the plastic is intact. Nothing different. I’ve never used cleaners, that insert in the tank, as this was suggested by a friend as a possibility. Nope, nothing different between the two toilets. When I first bought it, the chain rusted immediately on the same toilet and American Standard send me a new kit. I only used the chain, at the time. I’m wondering if there were defective kits 12 years ago?
I have this toilet. I can not get the toilet seat that came with the toilet to keep from shifting. It will shift about one inch with each use. Tightening the screws does not solve the problem. Any suggestions?
They make a rubber bushing that fits into the hole prior to installing the seat. It reduces the hole size and limits the amount of movement. If that doesn't work you may need a new seat. They make seats with a tapered nut to prevent movement too
@@susiehernandez6652 depending on the manufacturing date, the seals were reworked to last longer after so many failures. You can Google for the info on date codes.
For anyone having this particular problem: The stem separated from the bottom section in between the gasket and top pc. Nothing showing the part (plastic washer?) that holds it in. I used a rubber 'O' ring washer on the stem that appears to work. Needed my grandkids little mitts to put in thru the hole!
Thank you for your video. Nice work. I have changed 100% if the toilet's interior parts, and the toilet is still leaking from the tank to the bowl. I have used only "brand" parts. I changed the two bolts and rubber washers and the tank sits tight and secure, I added a new fill value, and it works fine. Finally, I added a new (brand) flush valve, with all washers and seals correctly placed, and the toilet still leaks - slowly (like it was doing before I started this project). It refills about 1" of water every two or three minutes. What should I do next other than to call a plumber? I did not spray anything with WD-40. HELP! Thank you. Craig
Thanks Craig, one thing to look out for is the overflow hose, this is the rubber hose coming from the fill valve on the left, that is placed inside the plastic overflow pipe in the center of the tank. Make sure there is not an excess amount of hose pushed down the tube. Placing too much hose down the overflow could cause the water to siphon. Make sure the hose is just barely inside and not below the water line.
Another thing to check is to make sure the plastic thumb screw on the top of the dome is snug and is not pinching the boring. There is a tiny oring that seals this threaded nut to the flush float.
@@PlumbingPartsPro Good advice, I do have the rubber hose extended way down the overflow pipe. Will shorten and advise. Thanks for your suggestions. Craig
Yes, that was exactly the problem - the rubber hose was way too long. Thank you so much. I was losing the battle AND the war, and now I have won both-thanks to you. Many heaps of appreciation. I was hoping not to have to invite a plumber (God bless them all) into my house during the corona virus lockdown. So again, many thanks. I would have NEVER figured that out on my own. Best to you. Thanks for all you do for the TH-cam public. Craig
These C4 toilets have been leaking for years and the company won't fix the problem. It leaks from the flush valve gasket on the tank. It's past Lowe's 90-day return policy, so these go in the garbage. The warranty is useless because they will send you another toilet that leaks. My advice is to take your loss with C4 and go with Toto.
The main problem of the running toilet is the carbonates of water deposit in the flapper gasket, it is straightforward, there is no need to change the flapper, clean the carbonate deposits on the flapper's silicon gasket, and at the edges of the round pipe where this gasket rests. This guy is just wasting your money for replacing all the stuff.
Worst toilet system I've ever had with Champion 4. I will never buy American Standard ever again. Replaced 6 gaskets that get bubbles in the rubber, and multiple parts throughout the system including the float and now the guide broke for the flush valve so it gets stuck in the up position. There's always a problem with it leaking or running. Meanwhile my budget Glacier Bay guest bath toilet gets used daily with the regular float and flip gasket system has had zero problems in over 15 years. I've literally done nothing to that one since 2009 and it's 2024 and it was half the price.
VASELINE !!!!! you know you have some in the bathroom. don't act like you don't. ok - seriously- -always use a thin layer of vaseline on your o rings and contact surfaces when assembling new seals. if you have silicone spray lube or silicone grease - even better. but at the VERY LEAST - to prevent pinching, rolling, shearing- destroying your new seals - ( especially o rings ) wipe them with a thin layer if vaseline.
Might be worth mentioning that the 4 slots in the top half of the dome need to align with the 4 ribs in the lower half of the dome when reassembling.
Hey thank you I didn't even notice that when I put it back together. Mine was still leaking after I replaced the gaskets and I thought I was going to have to replace the whole flush valve but I read your comment and it hasn't leaked yet after I lined those notches
@@johnathonmarin639 thank you! I installed a gasket last night and it started leaking again. I was ticked off. Didn’t know about matching the parts up. Took it apart and did and so far no more leaks.
EXCELLENT Repair Video!!
Great video that was the problem I was having with my toilet thank you very much you solve a big headache for me. Thanks.
Excellent! I needed to replace the gasket which has accumulated some weird stuff (pinkish color) that is causing a hard to push handle flushing action. Off to Plumbing Parts Pro to buy the replacement gasket! Thank you!
Thank you for the video! You helped fix my problem in no time!!
Can you show how the complete assembly can be replaced? Thank you.
Thanks for the info, just what I was looking for. Have an intermitting water leak sound.
I have this kind of flush valve , that came with my new American standard toilet. What I am having a problem with , it flushes so fast the the toilet bowl doesn't get cleaned. I am going to check the water level to see if that is the problem. Is there anything else that cause this problem ?
I bought a Champion 4 about 10 years ago, and it started leaking last year. I replaced the seal, and it still leaked, so I replaced the entire assembly. It lasted a year, and started leaking again.
So I replaced the seal, and it still leaks. a commenter on another video said if the thumbscrew is too tight it will deform the gasket and cause a leak, so I loosened it and just snugged it finger tight. It still leaks.
I'm not about to keep throwing good money after bad on this thing. What else can I do?
Thanks for including the parts numbers like you did!!!!!
Nice, thanks! Wish you had shown the complete replacement tho and removed the tank as well..one question, since you have to remove the tank to replace this thing, do you recommend going ahead and replacing the Tank to Bowl Coupling Kit as well since you have the tank off anyway? If so, part number?? Thanks!
Yes we recommend this. See link amzn.to/34XyLBA
Works great.
On my toilet, the pin or stick in the middle dropped in and disappeared. Do I need to replace the whole set up now? Or can I just use the top part?
Good video. My Am Std 4225A tank does not have a black thumbscrew on top of the poppet valve, so I see no way to replace the gasket. The current gasket is loose and falls down during the flush, preventing the valve from sealing properly. Any ideas?
Email us some pictures Info@plumbingpartspro.com
The top part (dome) has to be indexed to the lower dome.
Does this entire part have to replaced or just the gasket, when the toilet runs every now and then from some lost water. Or is it just the gasket that needs replacing? Can this be bought at Lowe's or does it have to ordered from American Standard. I know absolutely nothing about fixing toilets. Thanks.
Like the toilet and the flush. The blue seal is the problem. After a time, sometimes a little as 6 months the translucent blue seal develops a gas bubble and lifts the edge to allow the seal to leak causing ghost flushes. The is true with American Standard and Fluidmaster flush valve seals. Looks like a chemical problem with the material and that should have been addressed by now. Gary Johnson Just replaced it again 9/25/2020
What would you suggest, Im looking for a powerful flushing toilet, I live in the UK and was thinking of importing the chmpion4 or Viper etc, a local plumber told me that a high cistern and basic toilet may work better or do the job of flushing golf balls etc, passing the no clogging tests
I had exact same issue with gas bubble in the seal
thank you very much helpful
My toilet water intake is divided int two parts small for rim flush I think and large for main flush Does the tank assembly on the flush tower have to be aligned in a special way to let water I to the rim flush area ???
there no longer a black nut on top of mine how do i remove seal
thanks for the video
When you screw it back together will it leak if you screw it to tight, I replaced the gasket and oring and it has a very slow leak.
Thanks, Mike
Is there anyway to make it so the valve doesn’t fully close until all the water in the tank is drained? The valve closes about .5-1” from the water draining fully. Essentially how do you make a one tap flush more like a hold down flush?
I am currently unaware of a way to make it flush more water with this system. It's designed to flush a certain amount. However, depending on the age of toilet and if you have a 1.28 gallon per flush, you may be able to replace the flush valve with a 1.6gallon unit.
What is your flapper doesn’t have the black heart at the top my flapper is one piece with the shaft going down the middle how do you get that off?
Is it a black cylinder
I have four of these, they are THEEES WORST toilet I have used in my entire life!!!
That's really strange....I have had nothing but good luck with these toilets. What type of troubles are you having.
Same here. NEVER have I had to disassemble a toilet to replace a flapper. In my situation the blue gasket is like new, after 12 years. However the green plastic top n bottom pieces have disintegrated. So I’m forced to replace the whole unit. Trying to remove the tank is not easy. It’s easier to pull the whole toilet up to remove the damn thing. At this point, it’s easier to just get a new toilet. If it comes to that, it WILL NOT be an American Standard.
Note: I have the same toilet on another floor and the plastic is intact. Nothing different. I’ve never used cleaners, that insert in the tank, as this was suggested by a friend as a possibility. Nope, nothing different between the two toilets. When I first bought it, the chain rusted immediately on the same toilet and American Standard send me a new kit. I only used the chain, at the time. I’m wondering if there were defective kits 12 years ago?
Yeah this toilet sucks. Buying parts sucks too. The term "fits most toilets" does not apply to anything on this p.o.s.
I have this toilet. I can not get the toilet seat that came with the toilet to keep from shifting. It will shift about one inch with each use. Tightening the screws does not solve the problem. Any suggestions?
They make a rubber bushing that fits into the hole prior to installing the seat. It reduces the hole size and limits the amount of movement. If that doesn't work you may need a new seat. They make seats with a tapered nut to prevent movement too
I have a brand new champion 4 installed... within a week noticed it kept kicking on. It’s losing water through one of those gaskets. What should I do?
I would call American Standard and they will most likely ship you new parts free
As an owner of a Champion 4 Max...replace the flush valve or you will be constantly replacing the gasket.
@@sharon94503 replace it with what? Another American Standard with same seal? Won't that result in the same issue?
@@susiehernandez6652 depending on the manufacturing date, the seals were reworked to last longer after so many failures. You can Google for the info on date codes.
For anyone having this particular problem: The stem separated from the bottom section in between the gasket and top pc. Nothing showing the part (plastic washer?) that holds it in. I used a rubber 'O' ring washer on the stem that appears to work. Needed my grandkids little mitts to put in thru the hole!
That oring is an important part. It comes with the Genuine American Standard washer
Thank you for your video. Nice work. I have changed 100% if the toilet's interior parts, and the toilet is still leaking from the tank to the bowl. I have used only "brand" parts. I changed the two bolts and rubber washers and the tank sits tight and secure, I added a new fill value, and it works fine. Finally, I added a new (brand) flush valve, with all washers and seals correctly placed, and the toilet still leaks - slowly (like it was doing before I started this project). It refills about 1" of water every two or three minutes. What should I do next other than to call a plumber? I did not spray anything with WD-40. HELP! Thank you. Craig
Thanks Craig, one thing to look out for is the overflow hose, this is the rubber hose coming from the fill valve on the left, that is placed inside the plastic overflow pipe in the center of the tank. Make sure there is not an excess amount of hose pushed down the tube. Placing too much hose down the overflow could cause the water to siphon. Make sure the hose is just barely inside and not below the water line.
Another thing to check is to make sure the plastic thumb screw on the top of the dome is snug and is not pinching the boring. There is a tiny oring that seals this threaded nut to the flush float.
@@PlumbingPartsPro Good advice, I do have the rubber hose extended way down the overflow pipe. Will shorten and advise. Thanks for your suggestions. Craig
Yes, that was exactly the problem - the rubber hose was way too long. Thank you so much. I was losing the battle AND the war, and now I have won both-thanks to you. Many heaps of appreciation. I was hoping not to have to invite a plumber (God bless them all) into my house during the corona virus lockdown. So again, many thanks. I would have NEVER figured that out on my own. Best to you. Thanks for all you do for the TH-cam public. Craig
My toilet does not complete the flush. Does the dome become water logged in 10 years use?
It could be possible. There is an Oring around the threaded thumb screw on top. If that leaks by I guess its possible.
Great but I wish there was a way to change it without pulling the tank
I cannot get the thumbscrew to turn.
It should turn, it's a little snug. There's little tabs that make a clicking sound when turned.
@@PlumbingPartsPro I got it loose when I tried with plyers.
New one sucks too and leaks
These C4 toilets have been leaking for years and the company won't fix the problem. It leaks from the flush valve gasket on the tank. It's past Lowe's 90-day return policy, so these go in the garbage. The warranty is useless because they will send you another toilet that leaks. My advice is to take your loss with C4 and go with Toto.
This is not a repair video. It’s an Unboxing. Should change the title so it’s not click bait
Simple enough
Worst. Toilet. Ever.
What do you recommend maybe I can do a flush test
Ive had this toilet for 12 years and just now I have to replace the flush valve
Follow-Up: It only took a dunce like me 3 minutes to change the flapper.
The main problem of the running toilet is the carbonates of water deposit in the flapper gasket, it is straightforward, there is no need to change the flapper, clean the carbonate deposits on the flapper's silicon gasket, and at the edges of the round pipe where this gasket rests. This guy is just wasting your money for replacing all the stuff.
Worst toilet system I've ever had with Champion 4. I will never buy American Standard ever again. Replaced 6 gaskets that get bubbles in the rubber, and multiple parts throughout the system including the float and now the guide broke for the flush valve so it gets stuck in the up position. There's always a problem with it leaking or running. Meanwhile my budget Glacier Bay guest bath toilet gets used daily with the regular float and flip gasket system has had zero problems in over 15 years. I've literally done nothing to that one since 2009 and it's 2024 and it was half the price.
this is the worst design ever!
Leaves 4 inches of water in tank
This seals plister every few years bad design .
VASELINE !!!!!
you know you have some in the bathroom. don't act like you don't.
ok - seriously-
-always use a thin layer of vaseline on your o rings and contact surfaces when assembling new seals.
if you have silicone spray lube or silicone grease - even better.
but at the VERY LEAST - to prevent pinching, rolling, shearing- destroying your new seals - ( especially o rings ) wipe them with a thin layer if vaseline.
Vaseline is Not Recommended it will break down the rubber. Only use approved plumbing grease
I can't get the thumbscrew to turn.
It can be tight at first because there is a stop to prevent it from coming loose on its own but it should unscrew counterclockwise
@@PlumbingPartsPro Okay. Since it's plastic I was afraid I might break it...
Do you think I could break the stop?