Thanks - excellent video, especially for people like me who know diddly squat about bike maintenance. I dont know if I should have, but I re-used the cotter pin without too much trouble.
CreativeChuckle Technically you're supposed to replace it every time you remove it, but as long as its still intact you can reuse it. Mine broke which is the reason I didn't have one on there.
I’m pretty sure the manual said 1 to 1.4 inches (or 25 to 35mm) not 1 to 1 1/4 when you zoomed in on it at 1:21. You’re fine cause 35mm is really 1 3/8 so you’re just a little conservative but be careful those pesky decimal points don’t bite you somewhere it actually hurts
Does the manual actually say to have the wheel hanging off the ground or sitting on the ground and does it matter how much weight (fat ass) is actually riding the bike?
The basics are here but you measured the chain slack incorrectly. You pull down with a few pounds of force with one finger and thats your zero then push up with one finger the same amount of force you pulled down with, take the measurement and thats your total slack measurement. One should ALWAYS use an alignment tool whenever you fiddle with your rear axle.. My Versys 650 is off almost 1/2 a factory alignment notch left to right when using my laser alignment tool. Double check your chain tension/slack after alignment because if you moved the right alignment block enough your tension has also changed... Additionally if you really want to keep your rear wheel in place put a ratchet starp throught the rim an connect it to a stationary section of the bike then torque the castellated nut to 80 lb/ft. If the cotter pin holes do not line up then TIGHTEN to the closest hole DO NOT LOOSEN. A new cotter pin should always be used too but if all you have is the old one and its still sound then go ahead and use it with the intention of popping in to your locals parts store to buy a replacement.
I should mention too that the manual (which he has) states to measure with the bike on its side stand, not on a rear stand - not sure how much it matters in practice.
When using the torque wrench, do you do it on both nuts? I have a versys 650, which looks to have the same setup, but the manual only mentions tightening the left side with a torque wrench, opposite of what you did.
Yes, you do everything from the left side on a Versys. So you remove the cotter pin on the castle nut, put a 22mm socket on the right side and hold steady, then using a 27mm socket and breaker bar, loosen the axle nut on the left side. When you torque it down, do it with your 27mm socket on the left side and replace the cotter pin.
I have the same Pittsburgh stand, but my bike didn't come with whatever you have to put the jack on. I had to use a couple random bolts lol. What are these called and where can i get them haha? Yours are red
Bro you don't pull the chain down to get the accurate slack the slack is the measurement of how much the chain moves up and down so your 1 1/4" should be total slack off the chain when you pull down and up on it.
Its easier if you just take the cotter pin out. Its very hard to re-use(hence, why I don't have one, I should get a new one now that i think of it.) You aren't taking the nut off but its very hard to turn with the cotter pin still in.
unless you're 100% confident in correctly torquing that axle nut which stops your rear axle from coming loose, something you probably don't want to happen, then yes.
Hello Roach Rider, and thank you for the video. May i ask you, how often do you adjust your chain. I know you should measure the slack but from your experience, how often do you need to adjust it ? For me, i don't have a garage, so the only option is to do it every oil change, which is 6000 km.
My chain was too loose after about 4000 miles. It can be more or less depending on your bike and how you ride . I would check it with a tape measure at least every 1000.
If it is a new chain it will "stretch" and need to be checked frequently. By the way you are supposed to check the chain slack with the bike on it's side stand so there should be no excuses for not checking it. Once it needs to be tightened up you will need a rear tire stand. Chain maintenance (Cleaning, lubricating, inspection of chain (slack/alignment) should all be done at 500mile intervals according to the service manual.
I’ve been riding my 2018 Kawasaki ninja 650 a year and it started to shake a bit In the front end so I stop riding it , looking for a shop to put it In but I’m guessing because I’m a woman I kept getting outrageous prices. So I Started googling things that could cause it figured out my front tire was shot but I couldn’t see it by the eye I could only feel it. So I bought new tires but I guess after it sitting for 2 weeks after unexpectedly being caught in monsoon weather I realized the chains kinda slipping. So I bought a new chain but I figured its just like a bicycle and tire needs to be moved back periodically, So I checked the groves and on the left hand side it’s at a 3 but I noticed on the right it’s further up. Anyway long story short Im putting a new back tire on and I’m wondering if I should test the old chain by moving the tire back before putting a new chain on it?
I know this comment is really old, but just commenting in case it can help anyone in the future: You can get fresh cotter pins from any auto part store and they can also be purchased online.
You’re pushing up so hard on the bottom chain that the top side of the chain is also moving up, not accurate. Only push to see the travel without having the top of the chain also move 👍🏻
this is an old video, but the fact that you measured the slack wrong initially by not pushing it down and measuring the high and the low together makes this a not so good video
Thanks - excellent video, especially for people like me who know diddly squat about bike maintenance. I dont know if I should have, but I re-used the cotter pin without too much trouble.
CreativeChuckle Technically you're supposed to replace it every time you remove it, but as long as its still intact you can reuse it. Mine broke which is the reason I didn't have one on there.
@@roachrider1080 z,,cNA
That rear view at 02:10 . You tyre looks a little squared off. You are going to notice a huge difference when you change that rear tyre.
Thank you sir. Bad ass stand. ✌️
No problem. Ask and you shall recieve.
i picked one of those stands up on ebay .
yeh thaks for easy to follow video , best of several i watched ;)
Yea man, i got mine from harbor freight for like 40 bucks. I cant believe i ever cleaned my chain without it.
Thats what she said .... lols ... thank you for your video ... getting my 650 2020 in 2-3 days. this video will definitely help
Very clear, simple video; appreciate it!
Have some cotter pins on hand; you will have to replace one on the castle-nut side (left side)
I clip my own from steel wire roughly the same width and bend them into a locked position. Infinitely cheaper and more resourceful. Good tip though!
what kind/brand of cotter pins do i need?
4mmx35mm is the size needed
Detailed review! Thank you
Not a bad video,very useful.
I’m pretty sure the manual said 1 to 1.4 inches (or 25 to 35mm) not 1 to 1 1/4 when you zoomed in on it at 1:21. You’re fine cause 35mm is really 1 3/8 so you’re just a little conservative but be careful those pesky decimal points don’t bite you somewhere it actually hurts
Does the manual actually say to have the wheel hanging off the ground or sitting on the ground and does it matter how much weight (fat ass) is actually riding the bike?
The basics are here but you measured the chain slack incorrectly. You pull down with a few pounds of force with one finger and thats your zero then push up with one finger the same amount of force you pulled down with, take the measurement and thats your total slack measurement. One should ALWAYS use an alignment tool whenever you fiddle with your rear axle.. My Versys 650 is off almost 1/2 a factory alignment notch left to right when using my laser alignment tool. Double check your chain tension/slack after alignment because if you moved the right alignment block enough your tension has also changed... Additionally if you really want to keep your rear wheel in place put a ratchet starp throught the rim an connect it to a stationary section of the bike then torque the castellated nut to 80 lb/ft. If the cotter pin holes do not line up then TIGHTEN to the closest hole DO NOT LOOSEN. A new cotter pin should always be used too but if all you have is the old one and its still sound then go ahead and use it with the intention of popping in to your locals parts store to buy a replacement.
underrated comment.
I should mention too that the manual (which he has) states to measure with the bike on its side stand, not on a rear stand - not sure how much it matters in practice.
When using the torque wrench, do you do it on both nuts? I have a versys 650, which looks to have the same setup, but the manual only mentions tightening the left side with a torque wrench, opposite of what you did.
Yes, you do everything from the left side on a Versys. So you remove the cotter pin on the castle nut, put a 22mm socket on the right side and hold steady, then using a 27mm socket and breaker bar, loosen the axle nut on the left side. When you torque it down, do it with your 27mm socket on the left side and replace the cotter pin.
I have the same Pittsburgh stand, but my bike didn't come with whatever you have to put the jack on. I had to use a couple random bolts lol. What are these called and where can i get them haha? Yours are red
Swingarm spools. Look around on Amazon or RevZilla
Bro you don't pull the chain down to get the accurate slack the slack is the measurement of how much the chain moves up and down so your 1 1/4" should be total slack off the chain when you pull down and up on it.
Chano87 I was going to ask and comment the same suggestion
Took the words right out of my mouth!
Do you have to take the cotter pin out for this or are you only loosening the bolt on the right side
Its easier if you just take the cotter pin out. Its very hard to re-use(hence, why I don't have one, I should get a new one now that i think of it.) You aren't taking the nut off but its very hard to turn with the cotter pin still in.
Don't loosen the bolt, loosen the nut!
thanks! good video. which exhaust do you have on the bike
i dont have this bike anymore, but it was a danmoto gp full exhaust.
Thank you for the video, worked perfectly!
Can you tell about your spool size and thread size?
I see those exhaust burns on your arm. Lol been there. Let her cool down dawg
hey, where did you get the rear stand? thanks
pretty sure they sell those specific stands at harbor freight
Is the torque wrench a must??
Use a sprocket and wrench, the adjustable one will round the bolt.
unless you're 100% confident in correctly torquing that axle nut which stops your rear axle from coming loose, something you probably don't want to happen, then yes.
Hello Roach Rider, and thank you for the video.
May i ask you, how often do you adjust your chain. I know you should measure the slack but from your experience, how often do you need to adjust it ?
For me, i don't have a garage, so the only option is to do it every oil change, which is 6000 km.
My chain was too loose after about 4000 miles. It can be more or less depending on your bike and how you ride
. I would check it with a tape measure at least every 1000.
If it is a new chain it will "stretch" and need to be checked frequently. By the way you are supposed to check the chain slack with the bike on it's side stand so there should be no excuses for not checking it. Once it needs to be tightened up you will need a rear tire stand. Chain maintenance (Cleaning, lubricating, inspection of chain (slack/alignment) should all be done at 500mile intervals according to the service manual.
I’ve been riding my 2018 Kawasaki ninja 650 a year and it started to shake a bit In the front end so I stop riding it , looking for a shop to put it In but I’m guessing because I’m a woman I kept getting outrageous prices. So I Started googling things that could cause it figured out my front tire was shot but I couldn’t see it by the eye I could only feel it. So I bought new tires but I guess after it sitting for 2 weeks after unexpectedly being caught in monsoon weather I realized the chains kinda slipping. So I bought a new chain but I figured its just like a bicycle and tire needs to be moved back periodically, So I checked the groves and on the left hand side it’s at a 3 but I noticed on the right it’s further up. Anyway long story short Im putting a new back tire on and I’m wondering if I should test the old chain by moving the tire back before putting a new chain on it?
So the cotter pin size is 5/32 in x 1 3/8 in but, where do I find them in stores?
I know this comment is really old, but just commenting in case it can help anyone in the future: You can get fresh cotter pins from any auto part store and they can also be purchased online.
You’re supposed to measure when pulling down on the chain and then lifting up…
So you never removed the left side axle bolt?
Nah; just loosened; it looks like..
hello, neumático is 160 or 180? Thanks
160
I have a 2013. does anyone know how many chain links they have?
Joshua Delahoussaye 114
What did he say at 5:45
Deez nuts!
You’re pushing up so hard on the bottom chain that the top side of the chain is also moving up, not accurate. Only push to see the travel without having the top of the chain also move 👍🏻
this is an old video, but the fact that you measured the slack wrong initially by not pushing it down and measuring the high and the low together makes this a not so good video
U just had to use the Lords Name in vain didnt.. everything was 2 thumbs til that! Smh I pray God has Mercy on your soul. 🙏🙏🙏