@@kimhyunwoo8983 That makes me feel better about travelling, maybe I will pack more electronics then lol, I'm probably gonna travel somewhere next year and then travel to to Europe in 2026.
For the future, you can get a hook from the hardware store, and then hang your things for spray painting and that'll probably mitigate the "accidentally ruining clothes and getting it all over you" thing without standing in your garage in your birthday suit xD
Pretty sure you could use PCBway to design and print a flex ribbon cable for all those controller wires, it would make it easier to solder stuff together and also solve your wire routing bulk.
I think Bazzite or ChimeraOS would be good options over ubunutu imo. Also if a game isn't running it's always good to check protondb to see how others are getting around issues. Thought I should mention those just in case you haven't heard of them. Great video and look forward to the next one!
As nice as those operating systems are, his reasoning for Ubuntu makes perfect sense because it is the largest community on the framework board. Plus, the battery life on the "officially supported" distros is actually significantly higher without any out-of-the-box tinkering required.
From what I know, Nobara is better than Bazzite and Chimera and Garuda for gaming, but not by that much, however, that "not much" makes a big difference for those who aren't tech-savy, saving those people from headaches and (in general) deal-breakers.
Fun fact, Kapton polyimide is whats used on the James Webb Space telescope on it's heat reflector. (The heat reflector is made of layered Kapton and Aluminum foil, reinforced with additional Kapton strips). Encase anyone gives you grief about the Kapton tape know that if it's good enough for NASA to be used in space.
while in the same time it had to be fased out of planes for security. In the space the conditions are different, but here on earth capton can turn into onductor over long time and cause arching and possibly fires...
@@AdamTheGuitarist You are talking about two completely different environments though. Not just Space vs Earth, but the Conditions in which Planes are routinely in vs a handheld gaming device.
As a fellow DIY Handheld maker, I just make the device into 6 modules, Use Aluminum frame and Plastic or soft silicone outer shell. 1 plate module for Display, 1 for the entire System and 1 for battery and maybe some I/O, Given how you were able to solder almost every wiring, pogo pin connections should be the way to go, The Controller modules can also be separated, i have a Legion go, The engineering on it is simple but brilliant.
Great project. About the USB C stuff... For one, it works well to use one of the twisted pairs from a CAT 5 network cable for short runs of USB2 (like you have here), and also you don't necessarily need to run the CC lines. For power negotiation adding resistors to the pins on the connector itself is sufficient in this use case (ie you don't need anything fancier than the 5V 15W case). There's actually articles on hackaday about USB C, including the PD (power delivery) stuff. So you could've made your custom cables for the touchscreen work.
I think my favorite part about this is how you've sorta gone out of your way to keep components long-term accessible to regular people. For instance, you could've possibly had an easier time with the buttons and triggers using Steam Deck spares, but those aren't really something we can assume we'll be able to buy in another ten years. That's the sort of thing that turns a project from building a single device to building a starting point for a lot of other projects down the line.
What kinda of wires did you use? What gauge? Also what buttons am I supposed to print? There are like multiple .stl files of the same button which ones do I print? I’m trying to build one like yours so this would help a lot. How did you get Ethernet also? At 39:23. Great video btw.
Really cool project! It'd be challenging to get right, but I really like the idea of somehow cramming in at least 1 of the Framework expansion bays for that modularity goodness. Don't know where you'd put it there's such little room, but it'd be amazing. Secondly, a custom battery might be the best option for reducing the weight and giving more flexibility to the design. I imagine you could cram a split battery into each of the controller grips (which might also help with the weight distribution, since more of the weight will be directly in your hands instead of cantilevered off) And finally, if you want another project, you could always make a dock for your new handheld ;)
Huh, interesting idea... i could probably find the battery pinout and use 4 individual 1s batteries in series. That would give me a lot of freedom in the design. I like it. Oh also yea I do want to be able to use framework expansion cards. I just gotta find a good spot for them.
@ccricers so it's a little more complex than just the pinout. It looks like the battery pack itself handles protection and cell balancing, so it would need a custom PCB to connect the lipos to and power electronics like that just isn't my specialty and can be a bit dangerous so ill need to think of something else
This is a great project, well done! I've seen a few attempts at framework handhelds, and this seems like the most complete by quite a bit. Very cool! I'm glad you're going to work on controller PCBs, as the "switches mounted through a plastic frame and hand soldered to individual wires" approach always seemed both needlessly complex and poorly suited to the job - especially with a PCBWay sponsorship! A PCB might even give you the space needed for modular sockets for your switches! And, of course, using a PCB will let you use a simple off-the-shelf ribbon cable between the halves rather than that mess of wires. Oh, and there are quite a few options for ribbon-style USB-C cables out there, including ones with connectors with minimal housings and strain relief, so most likely you could find something suitable to further cut down on space for internal cabling. Lastly, I think you're kind of sabotaging the rubber grommet mount on the speakers with your brackets - after all the bracket is hard plastic hard mounted to the case and pushing directly against the speaker. Maybe leave room for some sort of rubber gasket between the brackets and speakers? The lack of usable off the shelf eDP display panels is a massive shame, but also nothing you can really do much about of course. Really looking forward to the next iteration of this!
Just want to say the open source spirit is strong in you. =) Thank you for that. In the current time where open source gets less and less attention in favor off selling stuff it’s a rare site. Thank you, and keep the project going. Btw. the trackpads are a cool idea.
I have a lot of respect for people like you. Its so fun to see how your project shapes and see the final product. Hope for many more cool ideas from you.
I don't recommend tugging on wires to check the solder joints. If you're looking to find out if it made a good connection. Use a multimeter. If you're using thinner gauge stuff. It's going to break if you tug on it
Amazing project, I love it! I imagine those debugging and troubleshooting steps took a lot of time that was edited out. Your persistence in your work is inspiring.
To give fdm prints a smooth surface, I use resin. The stuff for the SLA printers. Apply a thin layer, cure with UV light, done. The stuff doesn't cost much and a bottle of resin lasts forever. It is easy to work with, hardens in seconds and is great for sanding and painting.
Very cool! I'm happy you got it finished. I really like how the assembled unit looks. Accessing the motherboard again looked painful. Can't wait to see how you improve.
It'd be nice to see a couple of custom PCBs next time. So I mean like on each side of the device, with hotswappable mechanical switch ports. Probably linked together with a standard ribbon cable, with an rp2040 built into one as the controller. It's not that hard to do, and it'd be sick. I would love to see all the various internal usb connectors be removed and replaced with ribbon cables. You could make it a much lighter, thinner and cheaper to make device if you didn't use all those adaptors and wires. Maybe use flat mechanical switches or even stop using the mechanical switches for slimmer alternatives.
Should team up with CNC Dan for this. He uses custom PCBs for his handheld NUC projects. The common approach for game controllers is silicone membranes with carbon to make contact with pads for switches on the board
I'm shocked to see you have less than 7000 subscribers!! This project turned absolutely amazing and your style is perfect for these sorts of videos. I'm shilling this channel to all my friends now (hi there if you see this comment hahaha) because this deserves so much more attention. Fantastic work!
One of the ideas (not a serious thought, but something I thought would be cool) I've had for a potential custom handheld PC (if I'm ever in a position to even think about starting such a project) is, a PCB for the buttons and sticks on each side of the controller where they can be physically swapped "whenever you want". For example, you have mounting holes for the 4 buttons and a joystick at both of the spots where you'd mount them, then a tiny switch to tell the controller if you have the stick at the top or at the bottom spot so it can send the correct signals. That way, it could be used by people who prefer the Xbox/Switch layout you use here, and people like me who much prefer the PS/Wii U style layouts, or even have the stick on the left at the bottom and right at the top. This would require either a full front shell replacement, or the ability to mount some covers around the buttons akin to what you do with the rings around the sticks.
If you'd rather go with square/rectangular track pads the TPS43 by azoteq is a good option. I'm working on a similar project myself on my channel and I just did an episode on incorporating trackpads so if you want some pointers, feel free to reach out!
Awesome video. As you stated in the last part, with pcb you can save a bit of space. This way, you wight be able to add vibration to the controller sides which could be a great improvement to the gaming experience !
About the edp connection , the motherboard board connector pinout isn’t standard, because there isn’t one. However the screen connectors are standard, and framework sells the edp ribbon from the nonstandard mb connector to the standard 40pin edp. However, you may need an adapter depending on display for the 40 pin pitch, and frameworks ribbon is missing the touchscreen wires. Basically touchscreen is out of reach for the average tinkerer.
As much as I love this video, and the long form, can't help but think that a few more short-form videos with the device would be great for a different audience who would love to see what you've made, but might not enjoy watching all the fiddling/soldering. A video doing some true benchmarks of popular games, then comparing results against the steamdeck/ally, including some battery rundowns (curious if the extra weight of that battery leads to longer run times). A video letting some friends/colleagues play with it, then compare against something like a steamdeck as well. Just seems like a crime that you are sitting at under 10k subscribers with how high quality this content is. Normally I would send videos that I enjoyed this much off to my friends who have a decent interest in cool projects/tech like this, but it seems a bit too in the weeds for their tastes, even if I was fascinated. Some ideas for future revisions, leaning into how custom you are able to go doing it all yourself: -A very small display somewhere on the device that gives a battery or fps readout, that would be so slick. -Rear buttons -transparent shell (maybe once you get custom PCBs in there first, ha ha) -Rumble -trackpoint (maybe not if you do trackpads, but a trackpoint could be so cool for the form factor). Maybe if you do get trackpads too, see how a trackpoint on the rear would feel -see if you can get a steamOS fork on it, like Bazzarite/Chimera -You could try a few more switches. Gateron x Nuphy have a few switches in that same form factor. Moss should be very similar to banana but maybe a tiny bit more force from some reviewers. If your newer designs with PCBs and reorganization lead to hotswap, that could make for some fun videos.
I'd love to build this. But I'd need triggers that work with racing games. Also B7000 glue works great for gluing in screens (especially phone screens) it's about $7 for 220ml. You need a 5k1 resistor on the cc pins for the usbc. I've made these in the past with success.
Kapton tape isn't a layer of thermal insulation. It is highly heat resistant that's true but that doesn't mean it prevents heat from going through. Just like metal doesn't lose its shape in an oven so it's heat resistant but metal is a conductor. In this case kapton isn't a conductor but by function of its extremely small thickness, it has virtually no impact on thermal transmission. To be clear I'm fairly confident the battery will be completely fine with how you built it. But you got those details mistaken.
great work... I know this wasn't asked for but as someone who is constantly iterating on custom electronics, you could save a lot of space and shrink down a lot of the physical design with smaller guage wires and directly wiring the hdmi adapter with a ribbon cable version. if you ever decide to take a nother whack at it, there is so much that could be improved with thinner wires and intentional wire management lanes imbedded into the case and taped over. again, this was excellent. i loved every second and subbed because of it.
Thank YOU. This device would probably be too big for my hands and my kids. So, I imagine looking to use some 4x4" sbc board could be possible? AMD 8840u is probably the best SoC for this, so maybe we could finance its production. While I like Framework, a miniPC with 7840hs can be bought for 350-400USD (I have one using it mostly to play GT6 on PS3 emulator), meaning its motherboard cost even less.
for the os, i'm wondering how bazzite would work. it's based on fedora, says they are compatible with framework mainboards, and have the steam deck ui as well. i'm using it on a lenovo legion go with it and it feels just like a steam deck.
Im looking into it! I installed it on another computer i have. I'll probably install it on this thing soon. I really like it, and i like Kde Plasma too
Damn, your amazing, I got to the end of the video and you are talking about how you are 'now' monetised and I look and seen your subs. Damn, your awesome
It would be so good of them to actually sell such an encasing. That way when I decide to upgrade my motherboard I can use the previous one to upgrade/creat a handheld
Cool video and great project. The resin color reminds me of a limited edition lion king game gear I had when I was a kid. I always thought my steamdeck would benefit from thunderbolt/usb-c video out on the bottom and either a usb-a or another usb-c port on top. That way it would be easier to dock in a way that's similar to the switch while also letting you add peripherals or a hub. Hardware buttons mapped to volume controls might be a nice feature too. I'm excited to see what you come up with next.
Love the project! I want an update after a couple months! Submit this to Valve for as a job application lmao. Also, for the screw in joystick rings, you could use a spring loaded recess that rotates and locks in. Kind of like the locking mechanism on cars drum brake shoes. Would be easy to swap and always aligned properly.
Recently i found some people use the "fuzzy skin" settings on the slicer to hide layer lines and give a slightly textured look to 3d prints, and there is no need for post processing this way
A very amazing first attempt, I thoroughly enjoyed watching it. Super excited to see the next handheld project especially now I know that it's gona be rocking the AMD Ryzen 7. Please please build it on windows, I know windows has some issues but the limitations on Linux are just not fun at all! I'm a Lenovo legion go owner which I absolutely love ❤, so the a nine inch handheld? Sign me up!
43:20 you might want to have the Backplate as a WHOLE piece that can come off on its own, nothing attaches to it. or make a plate for the batteries to be taken off easily or something, like pushpin connectors? this would mean you are gonna encroach on the possible SteamDeck size
This is an amazing project even if you change literally nothing about it. but i am curious if you’ve ever considered adding the thumb touch pads the steam deck has. Either way love it and will consider making this and potentially tweaking it as well
Looks great. For next build, would you consider putting the battery on the outside, so it would be easier to replace without having to take it all apart?
PETG-CF, ABS-CF and ABS-GF barely shrink/warp/lift at all. ABS-GF printed in a 50-60°C enclosure is THE way to go for printing dimensionally accurate, robust things. Heated enclosure isn't necessary, though. It just makes it go from almost no warping to dead flat.
Hopefully framework will donate a newer gen motherboard. You're essentially paying in time and money to promote them. Fantastic work though, I love the large buttons and Dpad.
This is the framework 13 board with the intel 1165g7. All the framework 13 board will fit, though. For the other parts, you can check the printables link from the description.
It'd be interesting to make one of those using one of framework's screens. It'd probably end up bulky and heavy, but it'd be an experience without equal on the market right now.
I can't remember exactly how it's done because it's been a while since I've done it but you only need to wire ONE of the CC pins on the USB C connector when making a cable. I believe you wired CC1 and CC2 from both connectors together. You just need to pick one pair and use that. So wire CC1 from the first male USB-C to CC1 on the second male USB-C. They have other functions but the main use for them is so the USB-C ports on both sides know which way around the cable is (because they are reversible)
This is awesome! Congratulations for completing the build! A question I have is whether the OLED screen from the Steam Deck could be used? What standard does the OLED screen for the Steam Deck use? I know the LCD version uses MIPI, does the OLED screen use eDP?
Kapton tape doesn't really work the way you described it when talking about the battery. If a surface is getting hot putting kapton tape over it won't stop that heat reaching the screen. It is only really effective when protecting small components from heat sources like hot air or soldering irons being in close proximity. It works for electrical insulation too but it's not going to hinder the transfer of heat from one large surface to another large surface. Realistically the only way would be to get some airflow through there.
Super cool. Well done for getting to this stage. I was wondering why you didn't use custom pcbs for the controller mounts, as they are sooo cheap - but you called this out yourself. Would make things way easier to assemble, it's also dead easy to break a single solder joint when routing cables like that which is a nightmare to diagnose. I've just designed a breakout for the keyboard connector that does on/off and USB to a ribbon cable connector. Hmu if you would like a link to my project flies.
You should try out Bazzite for a Linux OS next time. It has support for framework hardware, and it's a gaming distro set up specifically for Steam Deck like hardware.
Very cool! I made a custom Framework computer as well so it's fun to see someone solving the same problems in slightly different ways. And I also dropped mine, as I was making a video about it, lol
Would also recommend making a battery/mobo combo pack that just inserts into the body as a unit. So most of the assembly is without the outer shell. That could REALLY improve repairability if you just open up the unit, and unscrew the combination unit and THEN mess with the mobo freely.
Missed opportunity to call it a "FrameBoy"
Gamework 13
I read that as "femboy" 💀
FrameGear
Dang, that's the best one so far
FrameBoy Color would be the OLED HDR model.
Shots fired at raspberry pi and I wholeheartedly agree. They made proprietary connector so they can sell you a proprietary display. No thank you
imagine having to go through an airport security with all those wires in the handheld
That's why I only bring a laptop, charging cable, headphones, mouse, and second phone when I go to the airport. Much more normal that way.
Not really much to worry about, explosives look very different inside X-ray machines than standard electronics.
@@kimhyunwoo8983 That makes me feel better about travelling, maybe I will pack more electronics then lol, I'm probably gonna travel somewhere next year and then travel to to Europe in 2026.
Isn't lithium quite explosive (more like quick burning) When added to water
Yeah, I'm building a practical framework mod and this is something I've thought about
For the future, you can get a hook from the hardware store, and then hang your things for spray painting and that'll probably mitigate the "accidentally ruining clothes and getting it all over you" thing without standing in your garage in your birthday suit xD
Im sure my neighbors would appreciate that if i paint outside
A wire coat hanger works great too
Pretty sure you could use PCBway to design and print a flex ribbon cable for all those controller wires, it would make it easier to solder stuff together and also solve your wire routing bulk.
Finally the full video
Sorry it took a while. It turned out to be a lot of work haha
@@TommyBee456I love it. It's like an RoG ally except better
The homebrew dynamic shot intro was comedic and timing gold. Meta is meta is meta XD
I think Bazzite or ChimeraOS would be good options over ubunutu imo. Also if a game isn't running it's always good to check protondb to see how others are getting around issues. Thought I should mention those just in case you haven't heard of them. Great video and look forward to the next one!
As nice as those operating systems are, his reasoning for Ubuntu makes perfect sense because it is the largest community on the framework board. Plus, the battery life on the "officially supported" distros is actually significantly higher without any out-of-the-box tinkering required.
From what I know, Nobara is better than Bazzite and Chimera and Garuda for gaming, but not by that much, however, that "not much" makes a big difference for those who aren't tech-savy, saving those people from headaches and (in general) deal-breakers.
Fun fact, Kapton polyimide is whats used on the James Webb Space telescope on it's heat reflector. (The heat reflector is made of layered Kapton and Aluminum foil, reinforced with additional Kapton strips). Encase anyone gives you grief about the Kapton tape know that if it's good enough for NASA to be used in space.
Woah that cool!
while in the same time it had to be fased out of planes for security. In the space the conditions are different, but here on earth capton can turn into onductor over long time and cause arching and possibly fires...
Anyone who gives him grief about using Kapton has never done any real engineering or prototyping.
@@AdamTheGuitarist You are talking about two completely different environments though. Not just Space vs Earth, but the Conditions in which Planes are routinely in vs a handheld gaming device.
I'd think that in that use case the Aluminum is the thing doing the lifting for the heat dispersion, not the Kapton.
As a fellow DIY Handheld maker, I just make the device into 6 modules, Use Aluminum frame and Plastic or soft silicone outer shell. 1 plate module for Display, 1 for the entire System and 1 for battery and maybe some I/O, Given how you were able to solder almost every wiring, pogo pin connections should be the way to go, The Controller modules can also be separated, i have a Legion go, The engineering on it is simple but brilliant.
Great project.
About the USB C stuff...
For one, it works well to use one of the twisted pairs from a CAT 5 network cable for short runs of USB2 (like you have here), and also you don't necessarily need to run the CC lines. For power negotiation adding resistors to the pins on the connector itself is sufficient in this use case (ie you don't need anything fancier than the 5V 15W case). There's actually articles on hackaday about USB C, including the PD (power delivery) stuff.
So you could've made your custom cables for the touchscreen work.
I think my favorite part about this is how you've sorta gone out of your way to keep components long-term accessible to regular people. For instance, you could've possibly had an easier time with the buttons and triggers using Steam Deck spares, but those aren't really something we can assume we'll be able to buy in another ten years. That's the sort of thing that turns a project from building a single device to building a starting point for a lot of other projects down the line.
¡Gracias!
Wow thank you!
Great stuff. looking forward to future iterations
Thanks!
I'll wait for the optimized version! GREAT JOB!!
What kinda of wires did you use? What gauge? Also what buttons am I supposed to print? There are like multiple .stl files of the same button which ones do I print? I’m trying to build one like yours so this would help a lot. How did you get Ethernet also? At 39:23. Great video btw.
Excellent project - thanks for documenting and sharing all of your hard work! I could see such a device being an absolute emulation beast.
Edp connector?........ I'm not the only one thinking about it. Right?
also, question. could you put steam OS or whatever the name was on it?
Really cool project! It'd be challenging to get right, but I really like the idea of somehow cramming in at least 1 of the Framework expansion bays for that modularity goodness. Don't know where you'd put it there's such little room, but it'd be amazing.
Secondly, a custom battery might be the best option for reducing the weight and giving more flexibility to the design. I imagine you could cram a split battery into each of the controller grips (which might also help with the weight distribution, since more of the weight will be directly in your hands instead of cantilevered off)
And finally, if you want another project, you could always make a dock for your new handheld ;)
Huh, interesting idea... i could probably find the battery pinout and use 4 individual 1s batteries in series. That would give me a lot of freedom in the design. I like it.
Oh also yea I do want to be able to use framework expansion cards. I just gotta find a good spot for them.
Even if you can't fit the bays on/in the device itself, a hub into several ports on a dock would do a good job of it.
@@TommyBee456 Putting 1865s or 2170s in the grips, and giving them more depth, for a more comfortable grip would be a cool concept.
@@TommyBee456 Did you find the pinout? I also found the connectors used for the battery aren't as easy to buy as I thought
@ccricers so it's a little more complex than just the pinout. It looks like the battery pack itself handles protection and cell balancing, so it would need a custom PCB to connect the lipos to and power electronics like that just isn't my specialty and can be a bit dangerous so ill need to think of something else
This is a great project, well done! I've seen a few attempts at framework handhelds, and this seems like the most complete by quite a bit. Very cool! I'm glad you're going to work on controller PCBs, as the "switches mounted through a plastic frame and hand soldered to individual wires" approach always seemed both needlessly complex and poorly suited to the job - especially with a PCBWay sponsorship! A PCB might even give you the space needed for modular sockets for your switches! And, of course, using a PCB will let you use a simple off-the-shelf ribbon cable between the halves rather than that mess of wires. Oh, and there are quite a few options for ribbon-style USB-C cables out there, including ones with connectors with minimal housings and strain relief, so most likely you could find something suitable to further cut down on space for internal cabling. Lastly, I think you're kind of sabotaging the rubber grommet mount on the speakers with your brackets - after all the bracket is hard plastic hard mounted to the case and pushing directly against the speaker. Maybe leave room for some sort of rubber gasket between the brackets and speakers? The lack of usable off the shelf eDP display panels is a massive shame, but also nothing you can really do much about of course. Really looking forward to the next iteration of this!
Thing that got my attention most was orange car at the background he looks so chill and comfy 😻😻
I've never wanted to see someones channel receive more subs than yours. such high quality content.
Just want to say the open source spirit is strong in you. =) Thank you for that.
In the current time where open source gets less and less attention in favor off selling stuff it’s a rare site.
Thank you, and keep the project going.
Btw. the trackpads are a cool idea.
Amazing build dude, great attention to detail 🥳
I have a lot of respect for people like you. Its so fun to see how your project shapes and see the final product. Hope for many more cool ideas from you.
I don't recommend tugging on wires to check the solder joints. If you're looking to find out if it made a good connection. Use a multimeter. If you're using thinner gauge stuff. It's going to break if you tug on it
Amazing project, I love it! I imagine those debugging and troubleshooting steps took a lot of time that was edited out. Your persistence in your work is inspiring.
To give fdm prints a smooth surface, I use resin. The stuff for the SLA printers. Apply a thin layer, cure with UV light, done. The stuff doesn't cost much and a bottle of resin lasts forever. It is easy to work with, hardens in seconds and is great for sanding and painting.
I am now dreaming of framework or a case company make a product like this one! You are amazing!
Very cool! I'm happy you got it finished. I really like how the assembled unit looks. Accessing the motherboard again looked painful. Can't wait to see how you improve.
Just awesome, I was very eagerly waiting for part 2.
Hope you enjoyed it!
This is awesome, well done! I am excited to see these developments in open-sourcin console design.
Yoooo I've been waiting for this, you a legend bro.
Hope you enjoyed it!
It'd be nice to see a couple of custom PCBs next time. So I mean like on each side of the device, with hotswappable mechanical switch ports. Probably linked together with a standard ribbon cable, with an rp2040 built into one as the controller. It's not that hard to do, and it'd be sick. I would love to see all the various internal usb connectors be removed and replaced with ribbon cables.
You could make it a much lighter, thinner and cheaper to make device if you didn't use all those adaptors and wires. Maybe use flat mechanical switches or even stop using the mechanical switches for slimmer alternatives.
Should team up with CNC Dan for this. He uses custom PCBs for his handheld NUC projects. The common approach for game controllers is silicone membranes with carbon to make contact with pads for switches on the board
EDP connector. Hmm is it looking for a cupcake?
Im a simple man I see open source and I like and subscribe. Love the work so far.
Dude this is amazing your a boss putting all this effort into your passion.
I'm shocked to see you have less than 7000 subscribers!! This project turned absolutely amazing and your style is perfect for these sorts of videos.
I'm shilling this channel to all my friends now (hi there if you see this comment hahaha) because this deserves so much more attention. Fantastic work!
I appreciate you ❤️
One of the ideas (not a serious thought, but something I thought would be cool) I've had for a potential custom handheld PC (if I'm ever in a position to even think about starting such a project) is, a PCB for the buttons and sticks on each side of the controller where they can be physically swapped "whenever you want".
For example, you have mounting holes for the 4 buttons and a joystick at both of the spots where you'd mount them, then a tiny switch to tell the controller if you have the stick at the top or at the bottom spot so it can send the correct signals. That way, it could be used by people who prefer the Xbox/Switch layout you use here, and people like me who much prefer the PS/Wii U style layouts, or even have the stick on the left at the bottom and right at the top. This would require either a full front shell replacement, or the ability to mount some covers around the buttons akin to what you do with the rings around the sticks.
Not selling the files is so refreshing. Someone out here doing it for the love of tinkering
If you'd rather go with square/rectangular track pads the TPS43 by azoteq is a good option. I'm working on a similar project myself on my channel and I just did an episode on incorporating trackpads so if you want some pointers, feel free to reach out!
Yo, didn't expect one of the only other DIY Deck makers to be here, looking forward to the finished ZenDeck mate!
That deserve a like and subscribe for the time and effort you spent building that thing.
Super cool project. Excited to see your future iterations 👍
Awesome video. As you stated in the last part, with pcb you can save a bit of space. This way, you wight be able to add vibration to the controller sides which could be a great improvement to the gaming experience !
About the edp connection , the motherboard board connector pinout isn’t standard, because there isn’t one. However the screen connectors are standard, and framework sells the edp ribbon from the nonstandard mb connector to the standard 40pin edp. However, you may need an adapter depending on display for the 40 pin pitch, and frameworks ribbon is missing the touchscreen wires. Basically touchscreen is out of reach for the average tinkerer.
This was really cool to see, even gave me a few ideas. Great work!
Nice to see this with the trackpad, trigger and rumble motor. awesome project ❤❤❤
I watched every second great content and respect for the ending 🤜🤛
As much as I love this video, and the long form, can't help but think that a few more short-form videos with the device would be great for a different audience who would love to see what you've made, but might not enjoy watching all the fiddling/soldering.
A video doing some true benchmarks of popular games, then comparing results against the steamdeck/ally, including some battery rundowns (curious if the extra weight of that battery leads to longer run times).
A video letting some friends/colleagues play with it, then compare against something like a steamdeck as well.
Just seems like a crime that you are sitting at under 10k subscribers with how high quality this content is. Normally I would send videos that I enjoyed this much off to my friends who have a decent interest in cool projects/tech like this, but it seems a bit too in the weeds for their tastes, even if I was fascinated.
Some ideas for future revisions, leaning into how custom you are able to go doing it all yourself:
-A very small display somewhere on the device that gives a battery or fps readout, that would be so slick.
-Rear buttons
-transparent shell (maybe once you get custom PCBs in there first, ha ha)
-Rumble
-trackpoint (maybe not if you do trackpads, but a trackpoint could be so cool for the form factor). Maybe if you do get trackpads too, see how a trackpoint on the rear would feel
-see if you can get a steamOS fork on it, like Bazzarite/Chimera
-You could try a few more switches. Gateron x Nuphy have a few switches in that same form factor. Moss should be very similar to banana but maybe a tiny bit more force from some reviewers. If your newer designs with PCBs and reorganization lead to hotswap, that could make for some fun videos.
Good ideas!
Really I would just love to see more of it myself! What a cool project@@TommyBee456
@@TommyBee456 what display u use? where to buy it?
@@andrikurniawan531 It's a waveshare display, should be a link to it on my printables page
I'd love to build this. But I'd need triggers that work with racing games. Also B7000 glue works great for gluing in screens (especially phone screens) it's about $7 for 220ml. You need a 5k1 resistor on the cc pins for the usbc. I've made these in the past with success.
Fantastic!! i love your mindset, your passion for engineering and learning. Keep it up !
Kapton tape isn't a layer of thermal insulation. It is highly heat resistant that's true but that doesn't mean it prevents heat from going through.
Just like metal doesn't lose its shape in an oven so it's heat resistant but metal is a conductor.
In this case kapton isn't a conductor but by function of its extremely small thickness, it has virtually no impact on thermal transmission.
To be clear I'm fairly confident the battery will be completely fine with how you built it. But you got those details mistaken.
great work... I know this wasn't asked for but as someone who is constantly iterating on custom electronics, you could save a lot of space and shrink down a lot of the physical design with smaller guage wires and directly wiring the hdmi adapter with a ribbon cable version. if you ever decide to take a nother whack at it, there is so much that could be improved with thinner wires and intentional wire management lanes imbedded into the case and taped over.
again, this was excellent. i loved every second and subbed because of it.
Thank YOU.
This device would probably be too big for my hands and my kids. So, I imagine looking to use some 4x4" sbc board could be possible?
AMD 8840u is probably the best SoC for this, so maybe we could finance its production.
While I like Framework, a miniPC with 7840hs can be bought for 350-400USD (I have one using it mostly to play GT6 on PS3 emulator), meaning its motherboard cost even less.
I have been waiting for this video for a long time
Awesome! Really cool and massive project. Love the video!
for the os, i'm wondering how bazzite would work. it's based on fedora, says they are compatible with framework mainboards, and have the steam deck ui as well. i'm using it on a lenovo legion go with it and it feels just like a steam deck.
Im looking into it! I installed it on another computer i have. I'll probably install it on this thing soon. I really like it, and i like Kde Plasma too
Bro, when you walked in naked i absolutely lost it! 😂 Congrats! You have me wanting to try this out now, the building, not spray painting naked
love seeing more DIY handheld PCs! nice work!
I came to the sweet DIY... I stayed for the even sweeter b-roll behind the scene beatboxing!
Damn, your amazing, I got to the end of the video and you are talking about how you are 'now' monetised and I look and seen your subs. Damn, your awesome
It would be so good of them to actually sell such an encasing. That way when I decide to upgrade my motherboard I can use the previous one to upgrade/creat a handheld
ok the intro... is priceless XD
Edit: very interesting video, i always wanted to make my own handheld too...
You can use textured spray paint, even in select sections to get the grip you want.
Oh interesting. I wonder if there is one that is like a rubberized grip
Cool video and great project. The resin color reminds me of a limited edition lion king game gear I had when I was a kid. I always thought my steamdeck would benefit from thunderbolt/usb-c video out on the bottom and either a usb-a or another usb-c port on top. That way it would be easier to dock in a way that's similar to the switch while also letting you add peripherals or a hub. Hardware buttons mapped to volume controls might be a nice feature too.
I'm excited to see what you come up with next.
Love the project! I want an update after a couple months!
Submit this to Valve for as a job application lmao.
Also, for the screw in joystick rings, you could use a spring loaded recess that rotates and locks in. Kind of like the locking mechanism on cars drum brake shoes. Would be easy to swap and always aligned properly.
You have earned my respect brother!!👍
very cool. custom pcbs are fairly easy todo once you get you're head round it, so would definitely be great for the next version.
super professional looking project now i njust wish there was a market for used framework mainboards. cant find a single one thats used out there....
Recently i found some people use the "fuzzy skin" settings on the slicer to hide layer lines and give a slightly textured look to 3d prints, and there is no need for post processing this way
Please remake it with improvements as u said because it could be the best handheld console ever❤
so the only things need are 3d printing handheld gamin gcase, wires and soldering.
do you have to sodler for everything to work?
this is the product i want framework to make being able to upgrade the motherboards every few years would be awesome
You can have a screw that stops at a certain position. Just look at things like the original ender 3 spool holder
A very amazing first attempt, I thoroughly enjoyed watching it. Super excited to see the next handheld project especially now I know that it's gona be rocking the AMD Ryzen 7. Please please build it on windows, I know windows has some issues but the limitations on Linux are just not fun at all! I'm a Lenovo legion go owner which I absolutely love ❤, so the a nine inch handheld? Sign me up!
This video was insane I can't imagine how long this whole project took
hey bro, i really enjoyed your style, keep going! I am a supporter now. Great work
I appreciate it!
Looks sick!!
43:20 you might want to have the Backplate as a WHOLE piece that can come off on its own, nothing attaches to it. or make a plate for the batteries to be taken off easily or something, like pushpin connectors? this would mean you are gonna encroach on the possible SteamDeck size
This is an amazing project even if you change literally nothing about it. but i am curious if you’ve ever considered adding the thumb touch pads the steam deck has. Either way love it and will consider making this and potentially tweaking it as well
That perfect intro though :O
About the vapor smoothing and the clear coat: have you tried going the opposite way? I.e. fuzzy skin
Great video! Have you considered Bazzite?
Just heard of it recently! I look more into it. Seems pretty fully featured
Looks great. For next build, would you consider putting the battery on the outside, so it would be easier to replace without having to take it all apart?
PETG-CF, ABS-CF and ABS-GF barely shrink/warp/lift at all.
ABS-GF printed in a 50-60°C enclosure is THE way to go for printing dimensionally accurate, robust things.
Heated enclosure isn't necessary, though. It just makes it go from almost no warping to dead flat.
Hopefully framework will donate a newer gen motherboard. You're essentially paying in time and money to promote them. Fantastic work though, I love the large buttons and Dpad.
Framework should make officially one of these
impressive stuff!
BTW, do you have a list of specs? i may have missed it somewhere but i didnt see them listed anywhere.
This is the framework 13 board with the intel 1165g7. All the framework 13 board will fit, though. For the other parts, you can check the printables link from the description.
@@TommyBee456 thanks
So good ❤
And you made me want to create my own too
Did you consider doing resin for the body? Im not familiar with resin printing but it could eliminate the need to paint.
It'd be interesting to make one of those using one of framework's screens.
It'd probably end up bulky and heavy, but it'd be an experience without equal on the market right now.
A lot of people don't know this but, Valve has given support for nearly any sort of hardware for Steam OS. It may be something you're interested in.
I can't remember exactly how it's done because it's been a while since I've done it but you only need to wire ONE of the CC pins on the USB C connector when making a cable. I believe you wired CC1 and CC2 from both connectors together. You just need to pick one pair and use that. So wire CC1 from the first male USB-C to CC1 on the second male USB-C. They have other functions but the main use for them is so the USB-C ports on both sides know which way around the cable is (because they are reversible)
Yea I probably should've took a second to look up how to actually do it haha. Next time tho
This is awesome! Congratulations for completing the build!
A question I have is whether the OLED screen from the Steam Deck could be used? What standard does the OLED screen for the Steam Deck use? I know the LCD version uses MIPI, does the OLED screen use eDP?
I have no idea but its probably worth looking into!
Kapton tape doesn't really work the way you described it when talking about the battery. If a surface is getting hot putting kapton tape over it won't stop that heat reaching the screen. It is only really effective when protecting small components from heat sources like hot air or soldering irons being in close proximity. It works for electrical insulation too but it's not going to hinder the transfer of heat from one large surface to another large surface. Realistically the only way would be to get some airflow through there.
Super cool. Well done for getting to this stage.
I was wondering why you didn't use custom pcbs for the controller mounts, as they are sooo cheap - but you called this out yourself. Would make things way easier to assemble, it's also dead easy to break a single solder joint when routing cables like that which is a nightmare to diagnose.
I've just designed a breakout for the keyboard connector that does on/off and USB to a ribbon cable connector. Hmu if you would like a link to my project flies.
You should try out Bazzite for a Linux OS next time. It has support for framework hardware, and it's a gaming distro set up specifically for Steam Deck like hardware.
I've been looking into it actually!
Very cool!
I made a custom Framework computer as well so it's fun to see someone solving the same problems in slightly different ways.
And I also dropped mine, as I was making a video about it, lol
Wonder if the controller halves could better connect with custom PCBs and a micro ribbon
Would also recommend making a battery/mobo combo pack that just inserts into the body as a unit. So most of the assembly is without the outer shell. That could REALLY improve repairability if you just open up the unit, and unscrew the combination unit and THEN mess with the mobo freely.
How does it compete compare to the other handhelds like the steam deck or rog ally