Awesome example of what I should be looking for. I have always struggled with what I should be seeing through my peep. This is really going to be a game changer!!
I recently switched over to a colored peep (purple) from a black one and it improved my groups. I find that having that contrast against the green on my sight housing definitely helped me.
I’m a little confused… is he saying that when he lines his peep with the sight housing, he’s lining the bottom inner edge of his peep with the bottom inner edge of the sight housing? I’ve always been told to make a concentric circle with the peep equally around the housing.
One thing I’ve noticed when I draw, and I twist my wrist to put the back of my hand to my face. ( like I would like to do)The arrow flight out of the bow flings the arrow to the side as it leaves the bow. So I make sure I keep my palm facing the ground and don’t twist the D loop or the arrow flight out of the bow is all messed up. I’ve never heard anyone talk about this.
I had the same issue. Now I put my index knuckle against my jaw bone and let my middle finger LIGHTLY touch my face. I focus on flat palm and even pressure on each finger for the release, so it's not torqued left to right. I know I'm getting tired when I start getting low left fliers, and I have to focus back on my draw hand/arm.
Assuming your face contact (and beard!), arrow vanes, and other variables aren’t the problem. Try switching your D loop material from the standard BCY 24 (2mm) that most shops use to BCY 23 (1.6mm), it’s way softer and as a bonus much tougher and will last a long time. Much more forgiving to torque.
I have been using a tube style peep so I can change my peep size. Last week I was at full draw on a moose. It was last light and everything blurred out on me and I couldn’t get a clean shot so I had to let down. It was right at last light. I was wondering if using a regular peep might of helped by letting more light in. I also am unable to shoot with my left eye open. Any tips and advice would be appreciated. NOCK ON!!!!
Hi John. When looking through the peep do you leave a little bit of room/gap between the peep and the scope housing so you’ll have some daylight around the scope housing? When doing this will reduce accuracy? That’s how I run mine because I’ve heard that in a hunting situation specially in dark timber this will help one see the target (deer, Elk) better. Or you just don’t leave a gap/space for daylight between the peep and the scope housing? Thanks for the video.
That difference in space on the lines at 90 yds was 4 yds where yardage marks are further apart wouldnt it be more dramatic at closer yardage where that same distance in the color rings is more dramatic where the sight marks are closer together instead of 20 it would be like 27
Jon, you and I had basically this same conversation when I shot your sticker at 99 yards at TAC in Utah a couple of years ago. You made the comment "You nailed it! You aren't even excited about it?" Do you remember my reply?
I walk back, shoot, mark my sight tape on masking tape. Its simple. Doesnt matter how the sight looks like, ive shot each distance and marked it that way. This seems like its important for people who print sight tapes. I encourage people just make their own sight tapes by either moving targets to each distance and marking it on masking tape or walk back shoot a target with masking tape.
About 20% of my sight housing is covered on the right side by the riser and cables. Is this something you tolerate or do you always make sure you can see the entire circle. Bows shooting great just don’t have a full circle up front to match…
I will never buy a PSE bow again. I have a PSE embark that I bought new last August and a week ago I had new strings put on by my local bow shop and they noticed the cable bar was warped and my arrow fletching we’re hitting my cables I reached out to PSE and all they had to say is I had to buy a new cable slide bar. This bow isn’t even two years old I shouldn’t have to buy nothing how about John Dudley and PSE stand behind their product I hope they see this message don’t waste your money on there garbage
Very important, Dudley thanks for helping so many archers!!!
Awesome example of what I should be looking for. I have always struggled with what I should be seeing through my peep.
This is really going to be a game changer!!
Dud thanks so much! I learn new stuff everytime you post!
I recently switched over to a colored peep (purple) from a black one and it improved my groups. I find that having that contrast against the green on my sight housing definitely helped me.
BRILLIANT, BRILLIANT, BRILLIANT DUD!!! Thank you brother!!
This was an excellent video
I’m a little confused… is he saying that when he lines his peep with the sight housing, he’s lining the bottom inner edge of his peep with the bottom inner edge of the sight housing? I’ve always been told to make a concentric circle with the peep equally around the housing.
Like to see some info on what can help keep peep alignment through the shot. 👍
Hi John - great video. When "checking in" what is quickest way to do this when coming into anchor?
One thing I’ve noticed when I draw, and I twist my wrist to put the back of my hand to my face. ( like I would like to do)The arrow flight out of the bow flings the arrow to the side as it leaves the bow. So I make sure I keep my palm facing the ground and don’t twist the D loop or the arrow flight out of the bow is all messed up. I’ve never heard anyone talk about this.
I had the same issue.
Now I put my index knuckle against my jaw bone and let my middle finger LIGHTLY touch my face.
I focus on flat palm and even pressure on each finger for the release, so it's not torqued left to right.
I know I'm getting tired when I start getting low left fliers, and I have to focus back on my draw hand/arm.
yea still an advantage to a strap release. I can rotate my hand and the trigger portion rotates freely staying aligned with the D loop
Assuming your face contact (and beard!), arrow vanes, and other variables aren’t the problem. Try switching your D loop material from the standard BCY 24 (2mm) that most shops use to BCY 23 (1.6mm), it’s way softer and as a bonus much tougher and will last a long time. Much more forgiving to torque.
I have been using a tube style peep so I can change my peep size. Last week I was at full draw on a moose. It was last light and everything blurred out on me and I couldn’t get a clean shot so I had to let down. It was right at last light. I was wondering if using a regular peep might of helped by letting more light in. I also am unable to shoot with my left eye open. Any tips and advice would be appreciated.
NOCK ON!!!!
I have had success for decades with a 3/16 peep
Hi John. When looking through the peep do you leave a little bit of room/gap between the peep and the scope housing so you’ll have some daylight around the scope housing? When doing this will reduce accuracy? That’s how I run mine because I’ve heard that in a hunting situation specially in dark timber this will help one see the target (deer, Elk) better. Or you just don’t leave a gap/space for daylight between the peep and the scope housing? Thanks for the video.
I bump the bottom of my peep to the bottom of my level like I mentioned in video
Solid info on a crucial piece that many people look over. What peep are you running Dud?
That difference in space on the lines at 90 yds was 4 yds where yardage marks are further apart wouldnt it be more dramatic at closer yardage where that same distance in the color rings is more dramatic where the sight marks are closer together instead of 20 it would be like 27
You are the man nock on brother
Jon, you and I had basically this same conversation when I shot your sticker at 99 yards at TAC in Utah a couple of years ago. You made the comment "You nailed it! You aren't even excited about it?" Do you remember my reply?
I try to just center the entire housing, but there's space around the sight housing with the UV3. I need to get a smaller peep
I walk back, shoot, mark my sight tape on masking tape. Its simple. Doesnt matter how the sight looks like, ive shot each distance and marked it that way. This seems like its important for people who print sight tapes. I encourage people just make their own sight tapes by either moving targets to each distance and marking it on masking tape or walk back shoot a target with masking tape.
About 20% of my sight housing is covered on the right side by the riser and cables. Is this something you tolerate or do you always make sure you can see the entire circle. Bows shooting great just don’t have a full circle up front to match…
It’s normal, you tolerate it.
You should do a podcast with josh bowman from bowmar bow hunting that would be a killer podcast
I have to use a clairaflier not many options
Bet that’s been my issue I’d shoot a group of 4 at 65 and 2 would be a little left and the other 2 would be a little right
If you know how to shoot.,.. I have 15 yard groups of 3 arrows touching with a 1970 recurve, no site in it
Listen to the Dudley..... you will be better.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I will never buy a PSE bow again. I have a PSE embark that I bought new last August and a week ago I had new strings put on by my local bow shop and they noticed the cable bar was warped and my arrow fletching we’re hitting my cables I reached out to PSE and all they had to say is I had to buy a new cable slide bar. This bow isn’t even two years old I shouldn’t have to buy nothing how about John Dudley and PSE stand behind their product I hope they see this message don’t waste your money on there garbage