I love the 12v content. Can’t wait to see the testing, dyno results, and tech talk. 👍👍 I recently bought a 6.7 G56 3rd gen and sold my 98 12v… a month later the 3rd gen is for sale and i got me a 1 ton 94 12v 5 speed 4x4 already. nothing compares to the 12v mechanical throttle feel and simplicity and reliability.
@@TrikeGarage you can’t beat a mechanical cable. the throttle booster can’t read minds lol. so at absolute best it could match a mechanical throttle cable. i love the feel of a mechanical pump. the truck responds exactly as asked. no smoke and mirrors of a computer deciding to do… or not to do what you tell it.
How close does the wagler match the big end profile of a cracked cap common rail rod? I am looking for something stronger but can’t use anything wider on my stroker motor.
You were almost the first comment too, missed it by 2 minutes... although 998...mike is usually one of the first commenters however he also comments the same message, is he a robot or real?
DDP made an interesting statement about 1000hp and reliable. It kinda crushed my hopes since I was aiming for that as well. I follow all you guises channels so I can learn from you alls mistakes.
@@6bt_str86 If something breaks when you dont expect it to because you are not aware of its limits, then what do you call that. The objective is reliable. If you aim for 3000hp then its fk the consequences, just send it. I am seeing a correlation between big injectors and diesel fuel loading in the crank case. The fish eye test was positive for a 2k miles oil change on 50% overs.
The driver has a lot to due with reliability at the 1000 HP level. With that much torque on tap, it's quite possible to destroy everything in the drivetrain: tires, wheel bearings, brakes, ujoints, axles, tcase, tranny, differential ring/pinion, etc. With sensible driving and regular maintenance, we've seen 1000 HP daily driven trucks that are reliable. Usually they have turbo systems capable of 1200 to 1400 HP and are detuned so they don't run on the ragged edge all the time. But are any of these trucks as reliable as a stock truck, NO!!
$4.20 regular unleaded boys just clicked over night (after "just clicking" over 30¢ ☝🏽over night- night b4 last) here in C. Florida. And my biz' based off gas utilization (Lawn service)safe to say think the 97 drw, 12v stays turbo lagging- flat another summer . 🤦🏽♂️ (TRUMP DESANTIS 2024)
@@pddofficial Hope to prove that theory wrong with being less reliable than stock. I went way overkill on nearly everything and will use about half of the available power. Will be finding out what my HP is soon. Probably gonna get my feelings hurt LOL. My last truck was driven all out but stock way 25 to 40k miles a year for 14 years. Bulletproofing is a vague term, but if there is an overkill version of it, I pretty sure I am close to that. LOL.
Can't wait to see you send this thing down the drag strip! How many miles will you be putting on it before you consider it broken in and ready to beat on? I'm a chicken so I think I'm always waiting way too long before giving any fresh engine the beans.
After the head is retorqued and then rechecked warm to make sure it doesn't need a second retorque is when we typically lay down the hammer. Sometimes if you baby them too much, the rings take forever to seat-in. Don't wait too long on your new engine, once the head gasket is clamped down, it's ready for power!
@Power Driver Diesel for a reliable but also wild enough daily driver on the street capable of big powerskids do you think 800hp is ideal and will require less maintenance than 1000hp?
We've tried it on a few engines with inconclusive results so far. Sometimes we've seen bonding issues with the ceramic coating, other times it has held up fine. We've also seen melted pistons with ceramic coating so it's hard to say how much thermal protection it really adds or if it will even stay bonded on a big power setup where pistons move and deflect as they are pushed to the extreme limits of the piston parent material. We aren't saying it's good or bad at this point, just mixed results in our testing so far.
@@pddofficial I have wondered If bonding sufficiently is an issue sometimes, and if it really helps. Maybe it would be somewhat beneficial for those running at moderate horsepower levels, to provide a little more protection and efficiency.
Im 4hrs away from you guys in the Clearfield/Layton area and might get hired by Industrial Injection as I'm looking to become a performance diesel engine builder
I’ve got a bone stock 12 valve out of my 94. I’d love to have it built to around 1000 hp. What’s a ball park idea of what it would cost for a build just like this one?
Im wanting to do a 12 swap on an obs ford used as a service truck. My main concern is longevity, power, and MPG/efficiency. At what power point can I get a good mixture of these characteristics. I dont want to go overboard make tons of power and have really bad mpg since it will be working everyday, but I also dont want a stock power block build any info would be great.
We have built and shipped engines to Australia, lots of Cummins fans down there! For a real quote, you best bet is to call in and speak with our sales department, or send an email. Depending on build options, core, etc. there are a ton of variables to effect cost.
It's very easy for cost to exceed 10k depending on cores, pump, lines, fuel injectors, etc. An OEM cummins 6.7 crankshaft is over 2k retail, but the aftermarket versions are usually 1k cheaper, so it's easy for cost to swing wildly depending on options selected. This particular engine would run between 12k and 15k.
@Power Driven Diesel could you do a video about using a common rail block to make a stroker 12 valve, I have two blocks that i want to make stroker 12 valves.
are there any 1000hp+pistons that'll last 100k+ miles? i've heard with forged aluminum pistons the ring eats away at the piston and they need to be replaced every 20k miles?? 98 percent of time it'll be on a 600hp/1200+tq tune with the availability to turn up to 1000hp/2000+tq when needed
For 1200hp on a 6.7, I would run a factory cast or Mahle replacement piston all day long. What you're describing is basically Myer's tow truck and it just has the factory pistons from 2010!
Hey guys random question, if I was interested in doing a high horsepower 12 valve build in a first gen body, would you recommend I go with a 2 wheel drive or a 4 wheel drive? Also wondering since I’m planning on doing a nv4500 swap down the road. Thanks!
We'd recommend you test drive both a 4x4 and 2wd 1st gen. 4x4 has great traction for street launches, but they don't handle well with factory suspension. The 2wd feels much safer at speed when you have a lot of power. That said, 2wd with big power skate on the street so handling is still a challenge.... Not the answer you're looking for, but a test drive of each would help you make the best decision. NV4500 is a fine transmission up to 500 rwhp. Beyond 500 HP, both 3rd gear and 5th gear become constant failure points. Beyond 700 HP, you might only get 2 good test drives out of an NV4500 transmission. This is why all the 700+ HP trucks end up with a built automatic, usually a full manual VB setup with a shifter in place of the NV4500.
@@pddofficial I currently own a NV4500 swapped 92 d350 and have loved it. That being said it only has minor upgrades done and I’m not planning on going with another dually. Nonetheless this is extremely helpful information and I’m very thankful for the reply!
I hear that. Yet you guys always deliver! I'm excited to hear her running as I currently have a similar build in progress. Can't wait to see what you guys do this year wish yall the best !
I gotta ask, what is the point of doing all the extra work for only .1 liters? Add 1mm to your compressor inducer and you will gain more than that little bit of cubes. I honestly only see negatives for the 6.7 crank especially in a 5.9 bore. I guess it could add a tiny bit more off throttle torque but so will a small secondary turbo. You have to shave your pistons which again is a bad idea if not necessary.
I wish somebody would make the second ring for those engines that has a step you have your gap but you have a step over yeah you know what I’m so I can’t explain it anyways Charles and Albert are you while take that back Ackerly and Albert look at their rings for it’s like small block Chevy or something you have two gaps instead of one but anyway that greatly controls blow by and I will make your engine more efficient this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell PA
It is possible to send the second ring off to total seal and have it cut with a machined step for a second overlapping ring to make the second ring gapless. This works well for milder applications looking to control soot loading in the oil and blowby, but it catches too much combustion gas on the bigger power setups and breaks the ring land from over loading. It also seems to be less reliable for the sub 500 HP engine applications looking to go 300k plus miles. So it's really a niche application great for 100k miles and 500 to 800 HP setup.
Do you guys have power driven diesel this is six in a row jim Thank you for that information on the second ring the in Gaples I just wondered if a guy couldn’t take a keystone ring and machine that gap in on that that way you’re not using a forged piston
We frequently quote rear wheel horsepower numbers in the diesel industry, whereas the gasoline performance industry regularly quotes engine dyno power ratings. We've seen carefully tuned stock rod equipped Cummins engines reliable to 1800 HP on the engine dyno and then live a season or two in a sled pulling truck. The key with almost any factory rod application is to tune out the low rpm torque.
And people wonder why diesels makes 800 million pounds of boost. 193 cfm LMAO. Most stock LS heads will net you atleast 350 on the intake side at .600 lift
That things going to breathe well! Thanks for another great video
Fingers crossed!
You guys *NEVER* disappoint! Thanks for sharing!
Our pleasure!
Not
Good to see another video that doesn’t say Ford😎
I have a Cummins 12v in my Ford. lol
Best of both worlds 🙂What year is it?
@@lydiapulver669 78 bronco, it's on my channel. I love it.
Come on now, we love Cummins but the Ford guys deserve some air time too!
@@pddofficial Fummins for the win! 🏆
I love the 12v content. Can’t wait to see the testing, dyno results, and tech talk. 👍👍 I recently bought a 6.7 G56 3rd gen and sold my 98 12v… a month later the 3rd gen is for sale and i got me a 1 ton 94 12v 5 speed 4x4 already. nothing compares to the 12v mechanical throttle feel and simplicity and reliability.
fk yea mechanical mafia you can have your computers
I’m running a 07 5.9 with g56 but a throttle sensitivity boosted and get a tune much more sensitive then the cable drive trucks
@@TrikeGarage you can’t beat a mechanical cable. the throttle booster can’t read minds lol. so at absolute best it could match a mechanical throttle cable. i love the feel of a mechanical pump. the truck responds exactly as asked. no smoke and mirrors of a computer deciding to do… or not to do what you tell it.
Yesssir mechanical got a 93 12 valve
Keep the 12v content comin!
Looking to start building my 12v long block. You guys have helped tremendously!
Thank you for watching
@@pddofficial I’ll be in touch soon buddy! Gunna need the help.
Can't wait for that to hit the rollers!
How close does the wagler match the big end profile of a cracked cap common rail rod? I am looking for something stronger but can’t use anything wider on my stroker motor.
The big end is a little wider than stock, probably have to clearance the block in your stroker application.
These are the videos I enjoy
First time I've ever logged on to youtube and PDD had a video less then a min old.
You were almost the first comment too, missed it by 2 minutes... although 998...mike is usually one of the first commenters however he also comments the same message, is he a robot or real?
@@pddofficial lol I'm guessing he's a robot. Trust no one online, not even yourself
Awesome guys ! That’s a clean looking engine 👍🏻 can’t wait to see her on the dyno !!
Very soon!
LOVE it dude. Can’t wait to see it running!
You and me both!
DDP made an interesting statement about 1000hp and reliable. It kinda crushed my hopes since I was aiming for that as well. I follow all you guises channels so I can learn from you alls mistakes.
Its not "mistakes" (its "we can afford hail marry... SEND IT!!" ) 😆
@@6bt_str86 If something breaks when you dont expect it to because you are not aware of its limits, then what do you call that. The objective is reliable.
If you aim for 3000hp then its fk the consequences, just send it.
I am seeing a correlation between big injectors and diesel fuel loading in the crank case. The fish eye test was positive for a 2k miles oil change on 50% overs.
The driver has a lot to due with reliability at the 1000 HP level. With that much torque on tap, it's quite possible to destroy everything in the drivetrain: tires, wheel bearings, brakes, ujoints, axles, tcase, tranny, differential ring/pinion, etc. With sensible driving and regular maintenance, we've seen 1000 HP daily driven trucks that are reliable. Usually they have turbo systems capable of 1200 to 1400 HP and are detuned so they don't run on the ragged edge all the time. But are any of these trucks as reliable as a stock truck, NO!!
$4.20 regular unleaded boys just clicked over night (after "just clicking" over 30¢ ☝🏽over night- night b4 last) here in C. Florida. And my biz' based off gas utilization (Lawn service)safe to say think the 97 drw, 12v stays turbo lagging- flat another summer . 🤦🏽♂️
(TRUMP DESANTIS 2024)
@@pddofficial Hope to prove that theory wrong with being less reliable than stock. I went way overkill on nearly everything and will use about half of the available power. Will be finding out what my HP is soon. Probably gonna get my feelings hurt LOL.
My last truck was driven all out but stock way 25 to 40k miles a year for 14 years. Bulletproofing is a vague term, but if there is an overkill version of it, I pretty sure I am close to that. LOL.
I wish we had a good diésel shop like this on Long Island New York
Nice build, looking forward to seeing it on the dyno!!!
You and me both!
Can't wait to see you send this thing down the drag strip! How many miles will you be putting on it before you consider it broken in and ready to beat on? I'm a chicken so I think I'm always waiting way too long before giving any fresh engine the beans.
After the head is retorqued and then rechecked warm to make sure it doesn't need a second retorque is when we typically lay down the hammer. Sometimes if you baby them too much, the rings take forever to seat-in. Don't wait too long on your new engine, once the head gasket is clamped down, it's ready for power!
@Power Driver Diesel for a reliable but also wild enough daily driver on the street capable of big powerskids do you think 800hp is ideal and will require less maintenance than 1000hp?
I just love this, I could watch you guys all day every day!!!!!
Thank you
Keep it going Will!
That's the plan!
That’s the prettiest 6.0 I’ve ever seen
We need a UCC update. 💪🏻
It's coming soon, video has been shot, editing takes time!
Any chance on getting a video on building an NV5600 to stand up to towing duties behind a 600/1500 12v?
Great idea!
great video
great stuff, you guys rock !
Thanks so much!
Is there anywhere we could find a complete build list for this truck?
No but I will have Will get started!
How about a dollar amount to build that engine for the average customer calling into PDD?
12k to 20k depending on options, core, fuel system, etc.
I'm 20k plus and counting 😂
How far out is MAHLE's backorder currently I'm still waiting on some bearings and pistons I ordered months ago
It varies depending on the product, what specifically are you looking for?
I am wondering if you considered ceramic coating the piston crowns?
We've tried it on a few engines with inconclusive results so far. Sometimes we've seen bonding issues with the ceramic coating, other times it has held up fine. We've also seen melted pistons with ceramic coating so it's hard to say how much thermal protection it really adds or if it will even stay bonded on a big power setup where pistons move and deflect as they are pushed to the extreme limits of the piston parent material. We aren't saying it's good or bad at this point, just mixed results in our testing so far.
@@pddofficial I have wondered If bonding sufficiently is an issue sometimes, and if it really helps. Maybe it would be somewhat beneficial for those running at moderate horsepower levels, to provide a little more protection and efficiency.
Im 4hrs away from you guys in the Clearfield/Layton area and might get hired by Industrial Injection as I'm looking to become a performance diesel engine builder
I’ve got a bone stock 12 valve out of my 94. I’d love to have it built to around 1000 hp. What’s a ball park idea of what it would cost for a build just like this one?
Around 25-30k
Hell Yeah Brother
Im wanting to do a 12 swap on an obs ford used as a service truck. My main concern is longevity, power, and MPG/efficiency. At what power point can I get a good mixture of these characteristics. I dont want to go overboard make tons of power and have really bad mpg since it will be working everyday, but I also dont want a stock power block build any info would be great.
On a 12v 400-600hp is great reliable power when setup and used as intended.
How do those Wagler sportsman rods compare weight wise? Are they a bit lighter then 12v rods?
They are heavier than stock 12v rods.
Great to see some real mechanics with dirt on their hands... building hot rods
Thank you
Hell Yea Brother!!!!
how much would it set me back to get the exact same engine and would you guys be interested shipping to australia ?
We have built and shipped engines to Australia, lots of Cummins fans down there! For a real quote, you best bet is to call in and speak with our sales department, or send an email. Depending on build options, core, etc. there are a ton of variables to effect cost.
What is the End Cost as Seen Build?
Out the door ? For the 6.0
It's very easy for cost to exceed 10k depending on cores, pump, lines, fuel injectors, etc. An OEM cummins 6.7 crankshaft is over 2k retail, but the aftermarket versions are usually 1k cheaper, so it's easy for cost to swing wildly depending on options selected. This particular engine would run between 12k and 15k.
How does a highly ported 12 valve head compare to a highly ported 24 valve head?
They get pretty close in numbers when you are porting both
What about using a common rail block to make a 12 valve?
We are able to it is just a lot more work
@Power Driven Diesel could you do a video about using a common rail block to make a stroker 12 valve, I have two blocks that i want to make stroker 12 valves.
Out here flexing you got 6 valve spring pullers 😂
I want to know why you prefer a 12v to a p-pump 24v
P pump 12v are simpler to put together and when you are done porting a 12v head they move about the same as a 24v ppump
What did you guys set piston to wall and ring gap at?
For this power level, we usually shoot for 010" PTW and 038" top ring gap.
are there any 1000hp+pistons that'll last 100k+ miles? i've heard with forged aluminum pistons the ring eats away at the piston and they need to be replaced every 20k miles?? 98 percent of time it'll be on a 600hp/1200+tq tune with the availability to turn up to 1000hp/2000+tq when needed
For 1200hp on a 6.7, I would run a factory cast or Mahle replacement piston all day long. What you're describing is basically Myer's tow truck and it just has the factory pistons from 2010!
Hey guys random question, if I was interested in doing a high horsepower 12 valve build in a first gen body, would you recommend I go with a 2 wheel drive or a 4 wheel drive? Also wondering since I’m planning on doing a nv4500 swap down the road. Thanks!
We'd recommend you test drive both a 4x4 and 2wd 1st gen. 4x4 has great traction for street launches, but they don't handle well with factory suspension. The 2wd feels much safer at speed when you have a lot of power. That said, 2wd with big power skate on the street so handling is still a challenge.... Not the answer you're looking for, but a test drive of each would help you make the best decision.
NV4500 is a fine transmission up to 500 rwhp. Beyond 500 HP, both 3rd gear and 5th gear become constant failure points. Beyond 700 HP, you might only get 2 good test drives out of an NV4500 transmission. This is why all the 700+ HP trucks end up with a built automatic, usually a full manual VB setup with a shifter in place of the NV4500.
@@pddofficial I currently own a NV4500 swapped 92 d350 and have loved it. That being said it only has minor upgrades done and I’m not planning on going with another dually. Nonetheless this is extremely helpful information and I’m very thankful for the reply!
2 COOL FOR SCHOOL !
I would love to see you guys instead of doing a 5-hole do a dynamite diesel 6 hole injector. #DDP6hole. #mechanicalmafia
Hot guy stuff 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Sweet mother of God 😁
Can we see this thing running
In due time the back orders kill us too!
I hear that. Yet you guys always deliver!
I'm excited to hear her running as I currently have a similar build in progress.
Can't wait to see what you guys do this year wish yall the best !
Sweet!!!
I would love to see HP/TQ numbers from an engine dyno AND the chassis dyno.
What cam ?
187 to 207 intake duration is normally what we'd stick in a build like this one and 215 to 221 exhaust duration.
196 cfm at what lift
Update?
It is time for an update. Soon
👍💪
I gotta ask, what is the point of doing all the extra work for only .1 liters? Add 1mm to your compressor inducer and you will gain more than that little bit of cubes. I honestly only see negatives for the 6.7 crank especially in a 5.9 bore. I guess it could add a tiny bit more off throttle torque but so will a small secondary turbo. You have to shave your pistons which again is a bad idea if not necessary.
I wish somebody would make the second ring for those engines that has a step you have your gap but you have a step over yeah you know what I’m so I can’t explain it anyways Charles and Albert are you while take that back Ackerly and Albert look at their rings for it’s like small block Chevy or something you have two gaps instead of one but anyway that greatly controls blow by and I will make your engine more efficient this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell PA
It is possible to send the second ring off to total seal and have it cut with a machined step for a second overlapping ring to make the second ring gapless. This works well for milder applications looking to control soot loading in the oil and blowby, but it catches too much combustion gas on the bigger power setups and breaks the ring land from over loading. It also seems to be less reliable for the sub 500 HP engine applications looking to go 300k plus miles. So it's really a niche application great for 100k miles and 500 to 800 HP setup.
Do you guys have power driven diesel this is six in a row jim Thank you for that information on the second ring the in Gaples I just wondered if a guy couldn’t take a keystone ring and machine that gap in on that that way you’re not using a forged piston
5.9 to 6.0.
One tenth makes that much difference?
Stock genlll 5.3 lm7 ls rods good for 1500hp also. Yeet
We frequently quote rear wheel horsepower numbers in the diesel industry, whereas the gasoline performance industry regularly quotes engine dyno power ratings. We've seen carefully tuned stock rod equipped Cummins engines reliable to 1800 HP on the engine dyno and then live a season or two in a sled pulling truck. The key with almost any factory rod application is to tune out the low rpm torque.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yeah 1500HP and roughly 1500 ft-lbs while these are rated for well over 2k ft-lbs lmfao
And people wonder why diesels makes 800 million pounds of boost. 193 cfm LMAO. Most stock LS heads will net you atleast 350 on the intake side at .600 lift
Motor.cummins.12.v.série.b.to.montando.um.
Great content. Hey editor- too much obnoxious music.
Thank you for the Comments Lowell
Banks says never trust Dyno
Not 1000hp 😅
Bs bs
Ur selling I ain.t buying snake oil ur up there uilt build ain.t worth what ur asking snake oil salesman