Inside 650HP 12v Cummins After 350k Miles
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Can a stock 12V Cummins reliably hold 650 Horsepower? In this episode, we take a close look at the internal components of the 12V Cummins after beating on it at 650 Horsepower for over 100,000 miles.
Get the best parts for your 12v Cummins at the lowest prices here: powerdrivendie...
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(Machine shop guy here) something to keep in mind, all of those welds can & will cause weak points in your parts, the factory Crankshaft is heat treated & hardened. It is already very brittle, I have had it in other engines where the crank will actually split (yes like a log) after being welded, or heated in an extreme manner.
Not bashing you, if it works it works, just something to keep in mind!
I have always wondered how much wear engine has when modified. Now I know. Thank you for sharing this and being honest without hiding or exaggerating details.
Glad to help
@Power Driven Diesel , forgot ask you. How did your transmission hold up? Any repairs and what mileage? Good topic for a video
Great to see and hear the engine performed great for that mileage at that power level. I have a '98 12v with Industrial Injection towing compounds that have been on there with supporting mods for around 100k as well. I do everything with it from daily driving it to work everyday to hauling a horse trailer. It really is a proven and reliable setup that works flawlessly. You couldn't ask for better driveability and spool up and G56 I have in it also works great with the 12v. A lot of what it takes to "get things to last" is all in how you drive it. If you drive it like a hot rod every single day, then don't expect super longevity if that's what you're after. There is definitely a time and place for it but I don't beat on it every single day when I'm driving it to and from work. Using quality oil and keeping up with oil changes is another high factor of course.
What oil are you using the one they advertise?
Very cool to know that I could go higher in performance (frankly, 99% of the time I'd still run it as conservatively as I would with a bone stock 12V) with no real component degradation. This is a prime example of good old American hot rodding - squeezing the most hp out of an engine without breaking the bank. Subscribed, looking forward to seeing more.
Them bearings looked nicer than when i rebuilt my 01 5.9 with 355,000 miles.
I've been wanting to get into a diesel truck/cummins as my 2nd vehicle just to dick around with and have fun.
I'm a gas engine tech for 5 years and it's kinda spooked me the difference from a gas engine to an older style 12v cummins.
However, I've been learning a lot from your channel and it's been awesome, and I'm feeling a lot more comfortable. I'm hoping to take the leap come spring time and pickup a "beatup" ram for sub $6k.
Love the content and I look forward to watching more of it!
Love the mechanical content!! My 96 5 speed truck has 325.000 miles with head studs slipped in one at a time, 60# valve springs, PDD push rods, 6x11 VCOs, 21 degrees timing, and HE351/S369sxe compounds. It has been an amazingly reliable setup and now I know the motor most likely has alot of life left in it. KEEP IT UP!!!
Sounds like a great combination!
Ever had it dyno’d and any idea on the power or MPG if you even keep track of it.
@@kalebstout7673 Never had on a dyno, would love too one day. Power is probably north of 400hp off the butt dyno and from driving other trucks. MPGs aren't bad, average about 15, hot rodding around and towing.
Glad you made this video, I was already planning on building a project vehicle with a 12 valve Cummins, and this confirms the strength and durability of this engine 😁👍🏻
They are really well-built from the factory!
I’m still in the preliminary stage of the build, but I’m sure you’ll be impressed with the power potential of this type of set up
Great to see you back doing videos Will.
We tore down the engine from my old truck, 1996 Cummins at 494,000 miles. It was only about 150 hp overstock for the last 150K. A lot of those smiles were short trip city and local. Hone marks were gone in cylinders 5 & 6. Most bearings looked really good except #5 rod was in bad shape and one main was a bit rough, No idea why. But the crank polished out. I noticed they low the thumping sound for the last 75,000 miles, because of the rod bearing.
Occasionally we've come across random rod bearing failures but not a common issue for sure.
What mods did you do to get the extra 150hp? I'm looking for a little extra hp on my stock 97 with 237k miles. I tow a toy hauler to the desert.
Truly tough engines! Good and interesting video.
Yes they are!
@@pddofficial about the s472 turbo... were EGTs different?
can’t wait to see where this engine build ends up power wise. 👍
Shoot for the stars.... or limit of the block? LOL
I just put compounds 361 over 476 on my 3rd gen along with studs, springs, lift pump and coolant bypass. The truck was completely stock with 150k on the motor but is now tuned to 650 hp. I built it for towing and daily driving. I was told to expect it to go 400k the way it sits and this just supports that. Thanks for the info.
I like the sound of that. I am still working out the funds for the Truck I inherited when my Dad passed. I promised him I would make his rig special. What would it cost me to do that to my 94 12v.
I am assuming I still need to get the pan off upgrade for the trans, a better flex plate and a stronger torque converter so it doesn't just make the stock one slip.
The truck is all stock as far as I can tell, starts and runs super easy. Like we talked about before I was hoping to keep the mileage good, but truth be told I can live with a little worse mileage.
Man I would absolutely kill to know everything you guys know
I’m planning on going with the ultimate towing compounds on my truck. Thanks for showing this. It just confirms that this is the route I want to go! Now do you think a ZF6 will hold up behind it? (Fummins)
Send it to superstick in Texas
Well spoken in front of the camera sir.
Excellent video man. Much love from Alberta! 🤠
Great video! Keep them coming!
I think this says more to the fact that you guys know how to tune the truck to safely make that much horsepower, than anything. Granted the cummins is solid, but if I tweaked my engine that far, something would probably give.
Says volumes about your knowledge base.
Some would argue it's really easy to tune a 12v Cummins.... screwdriver and small hand tools.... Honestly with fast spooling compound turbos, it's hard to really overdue-it on the fueling side because the excess airflow produces the power so easily.
@@pddofficial I didn't know about you guys and your compounds before buying a Ind. Inj. Boxer turbo. If I would have I would have definitely gone with your setup. I'm in love! I don't really like the boxer anyway. It takes alot to light up. They said it would work great though. Who knew...
I just rebuilt my 12v after dropping an exhaust valve. It was around 600hp for about 50k miles and my rod bearings looked the same.
do you run compound turbos? just bought a 97 dually to tow my trailer to the desert. i wouldnt mind another 100 hp.
@@MarcoRodriguez-lr2xt i just went from a single silverbullet 64 to a s362/s475 compound setup. Unreal the difference.
Just got my 98 12 valve back from Superstick Transmissions, they did a G56 swap for me. Now I want a little more power, 450whp would be plenty.
Great give a call any time 435-962-9555 or email to Info@powerdrivendiesel.com
Well this is an amazing video! I have over 300,000 on my 24v not as much power as your 12v but aftermarket everything and I wonder how my block is doing??
Great explanation! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hey! I love your content and I'm partnered with TheAdrenalineDealer and 8LugsNoPlugs and we'd love to share your content across our platforms with full credit to you!
Stock engine might handle 700hp …but my 47re would be shaking in it’s boots when it sees those ponies coming 🤣
I never repond here.
But you guys are great.
I like smaller Diesel tuning and i know a lot about the subject.
Still its great entertainment.
Keep it up
Thanks for watching!
When yall doing a double the horsepower truck sponsorship ill drive from California for that to happen!
We already did double, it's probably time to do triple or quadruple?
@Power Driven Diesel Would be awesome to see both tripe and quadruple as part of a series on the channel. If you need a lightly modified 2nd gen to use I'm that guy pal 👍
What kind of mpgs would a truck like this get cruising the highway? This is cool! Makes me want a diesel truck
typically 15-18mpg
Sweet video as always
I need learn more about these. I have had a 94 5.9 just sitting around that I need to start building
Great show guys 👌
When you weld the cam gear to the camshaft, are there any balance issues to be concerned about?
We weld the crank gear to the crank and have had no negative results
Wowowo, throwing stones at Rotella...
This truck has used/ran some Rotella in its lifetime, but ever since they went to the new CJ oil spec, the wear metals increased dramatically. The current CK oil spec is even worse for the pre 2002 engines that were never designed to run with so little zinc. Have you ever wondered why the new 6.7L Cummins engines abandoned the proven flat tappet camshaft setup and are using roller tappet?
Another great video
around 1300tq?
You guys have an awesome job. I'm jealous.
Funny how the first oil comes to mind that’s junk lol ROTELA!
How is this junk oil?
Rotella oil is junk?
I looking to get a full rebuild on my 98 12v to bad you guys are so far away from Long Island NY! Anyone on here no of someone local to LI to help me out? Thanks for the awesome content fellers keep it up!!!
Thank you Ryan
This is roughly my goal with my 96 Dually
You talked about the abuse but how was the exhaust temps, was it pretty moderate or did it see 2k EGT weekly
It probably saw 1800 weekly, it probably couldn't get to 2k without a trailer load on a steep hill or at the drag strip at 100 MPH.
If someone drops off a w250 and wants this kind of hp, how much is he roughly looking at?
If we were doing it around 60k
This was all good information but I keep reading where people are talking about the high mileage I don't know why they're saying high mileage one of those engines driven properly maintenance property should go push a million miles before they need torn into 7500000 at least
in stock form that is absolutely true but when you almost quadruple the horsepower of the factory engine the life span drops to about a forth of it's life.
Baron
Sweet I have the same 98 12valve 215 pump
My dream is your compounds.
I have a motor built waiting to be put in, I have a stage 4 colt cam it and would love to see what your compounds would do with that cam.
Please and thank you Will
Sounds like a great build plan/setup. We've tested larger cams in the past on a 500ish HP 12v with a medium sized single turbo and it didn't really pick up a measurable horsepower gain on the dyno. We suspect the stock head was holding back dyno gains from the mild cam. The stage 4 colt is bigger than what we tested and the towing compounds flow more air, so it should be a great combination. Now if you topped if off with a ported head..... it might be incredible.
Hey now Rotella diesel oil is not junk lol esp is lucas additive is added along with it
Great info.
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have a 400-500hp 4bt package?
No sorry 4bts are not a huge market but if you call our sales team they will be able to get you a recipe made up!
So why did it have so much blow by? Those rings don’t look that bad
Loose ring tension, vertical scuffing in the bores of the block, and 60psi boost is going to generate blowby, even on a new engine.
Did it have a problem ? Wondering why you took it apart if there wasn't anything wrong with it. Just found your channel liking the content. Amazing video was it drove hard what was the normal egt temp? Did u pull a trailer full time with it ? Or just a daily driver beat on type build ? Mine has 600 hp in my 3500 dually 6 speed. An on summer days it's usually 2k temp 4 inch straight pipe exhuast compound turbo set up.
The truck had no issues other than Will was bored with 664 HP. Check out the earlier episode for the details on this 98' 12 valve: th-cam.com/video/uKAPhZZEQ8A/w-d-xo.html
What generation is this 12 valve he referring to? First or second generation? What one is better? I’m new to this. Trying to learn and research. Thanks in advance.
he is referring to the 2nd generation as for what is better all depends on what you are after.
@@pddofficialI got a 92 wanna beef it up a bit something similar to this power range. Something reliable but more power. Not looking to break the truck. Just want a daily that I can haul with from time to time.
Good information video
As a first time inquirer to having a hi-po trans built, I just got off the phone with one of your staff- must be nice not needing another customer. Treated like he just didn’t give a shit. I’ll take my 8g’s to another place.
Customer service/dis-service… your reputation is yours to earn or burn. Thought I’d let you know.
Sorry to hear that, who did you speak with?
@@pddofficial
I would’ve written a name if was being helped but I wasn’t.
I’ll paraphrase and maybe you can help. I realize you don’t do remove and replace, I don’t have a garage large enough to store my truck to do it myself (or likely the skills, tools, and ability), and are reticent to handing over an eight thousand dollar transmission to any knucklehead to install. My days of garage mechanic-ing at this level are long since gone and would like an R & R guy I can rely on to put a transmission like that in my vehicle.
I am an original owner of a bone stock 2000 Dodge Cummins 5.9 with 240,000 miles and want a transmission befitting the engine in front of it so I can hand it down to my daughter in my will and I am finding no solutions here in Southern California for a high potency builder/installer with my original transmission-I don’t want to core exchange. ATS will do this job but after seeing a tear down of one of their builds, I’m having reservations.
As you serve customers nationwide I thought you might have contracted or recommended installers in my region tied to your product befitting your warranty and the response I received implied he was too busy to bother with me.
If you have a solution or are interested in the project I’m all ears.
Thank you for your response
You must have a few bad injectors....im.pushin 740 hp.🤠
What were the torque numbers on that build?
Around 1400
@@pddofficial Sweet!
Cost wise to make something like this reliable? 5k 10k?
10k-20k depending on trans mission.
how much for 6-700 hp engine ??
Give our sales team a call 435-962-9555
Love how you guys care for skin with same passion as your engines lol, as a 45 year career diesel fitter you can believe you will pay the price for the tough guy persona of not wearing gloves and using barrier cream regularly, as you well know diesel oil is black for a reason and if you think your epidermis layer is as hooked on diesel engines as you lol 😆 love your content though, still amazed how far the US diesel scene has progressed in such a short time to such a high degree
Thank you
I didn't know Rotella was considered junk oil. I run it in my Cummins and my cat skidsteer.
All store brought oil have to meet ck4 or cj4 witch dose not benefit these engines at all they are for emissions on systems.
Seems like a lot of wear and possible issues for it to be reliable imo
What are you think if i take a 6bt and i tuning to 500 hp with + 13sp transmition and i instal on a semi single axle ? For pull 48k lb trailer. Is crazy?
I love when you guys post videos! You guys coming to UCC again?
We are not attending UCC this year as a competitor. That doesn't mean a few of us won't be there to spectate and/or help should the need arise.
@@pddofficial bummer to hear you won't be competing but I will definitely say hi to any of you I see!
Can we talk trans to hold that power?
Hell Yeah Brother
I'm gonna go out on a limb based on your comment that you're a Cleetus McFarland fan.... correct?
Do you guys ever balance the rotating assembly?
Yes at 1000hp build we will.
welding the cam gear on ? you could do the same thing with a couple of bolts and safety wire and is not as permanent, just a suggestion.
How would that work when it rotates?
Curious to know if this was running a Fluidampr or not??
I don't feel scared to turn mine up anymore.
Head gasket and/or trans/clutch issues should be your only worry till you go 700+, then the cam gear walking becomes a real problem.
@@pddofficial Yeah, my stock 260k 48RE might be in for a world of hurt.
I want to put a 12 valve in my 1990 f700 hotshot truck what are y’all’s build prices
we are not currently building engines, but if you want to build it yourself we are more than happy to work with you on what products you will need.
Baron
So with that setup could you run waste oil in it?
Yes just need to watch the EGT oil runs hotter
What oil are you running?
Our Power driven oil.powerdrivendiesel.com/product-category/power-driven-fluids/
what kind of mileage did you get with that rig? I'm a 1st gen guy, but have a 4x4 I'm wanting to build. buddy has a 500 hp truck 98 model. gets 17mpg
Averaged 18mpg
I want to take my 96 apart look it over. But I want to waite till I hit 500000miles I got less than 20000 miles to go. I have compound turbos my truck probably sits around 500 to 550hp. It's never had the head off of it. I still have stock valve springs and all.
500k miles is awesome!
What oil are you using? Tried finding it in comments. Good video I’m upgrading my 18 with banks parts.
For oil, this truck usually was filled up with powerdrivendiesel.com/product/conventional-15w-40-boosted-with-zddp/
Occasionally during wintertime it would get the full synthetic: powerdrivendiesel.com/product/synthetic-15w-40-boosted-with-zddp/
Or for the really cold weather, the newly released 5w-40 helps with cold starts: powerdrivendiesel.com/product/power-driven-diesel-synthetic-diesel-oil-5w-40-gal/
What are the sought after cummins blocks/engines I can look for if I wanted to buy a used engine to heavily modify for a project vehicle?
The international blocks and the 215 p pump is what you would be after but at 1500+hp unless you are planing on filling it they all tend to break.
@@pddofficial nice..I was thinking around half of that kind of power....is there any way to destiguish them or pick them out if I were to go out to a junk yard...
How can i get you guys to fix my 99 dodge ram 2500 2wd?
Where is the build list of parts you added to your 12V Cummins to get 650hp?
i need
Could the same reliable, 100k mile, 650-hp be had with a 24 valve?
Yes. This was a ‘98 storm block, same as a 24V. Heads and fuel system are main differences but yes a 24V can make this power reliably. Life expectancy depends more on the operator.
Yes, the engine will handle 650 HP, but with the factory VP44 injection pump, it's difficult to get 650 rear wheel HP fuel-only. You'll definitely need a healthy sized injector and a potentially a hotrod VP44 pump if you have a factory 6 speed HO truck. If you have a standard output 5 speed or 4 speed auto, then there's a good chance your factory VP44 injection pump will get to the 600+ HP range fuel-only.
any news on when the batwing rockers will be back in?
They should be back in stock by the end of next week.
So what what was caseing all the crank case pressure? How was the bore on the block?
Bore had vertical scuffing, most likely from butting rings a time or two at the drag strip on a low 12 second 1/4 mile pass. Bores will clean up with about 009" piston to wall hone job, so for a milder power level rebuild it will probably end up 020" oversized.
I plan on building a nice tow rig using a either a 90's Chevy C30HD frame or a Ford F550, What would be the best transmission to use behind a 400-500hp Cummins? I would like to have a manual like a 5sp Eaton or a newer 6sp dodge manual. Don't feel like investing in $10K Built automatics, Not drag racing just wanna tow comfortable any mountain that comes my way.
If you have the space under the floor I would use a FSO-6406a Eaton Fuller. Its twice the trans of of any Getrag or New Venture.
The G56 6 speeds have larger bearings than the NV5600 and they are usually more affordable. The ZF 6 speeds have a good reputation as well. Outside of those three light duty factory options, I don't have enough first hand experience to share an opinion.
Well now I want more power from my 12valve
I inquired about having you guys build me an engine last week I told the guy I was thinking about power range from 650 800 hp he quoted me on that but I’m wonder if I needed the engine to be that built I will be towing a trailer with Jeep on it about once a month and driven daily back and forth to work I planned on compounding it but got me thinking was I planning to over build it I know it’s better to but after seeing this video it got me thinking and also with that power range I was quoted am I able to lower the power range dramatically with the afc I just have questions and serious about buying engine from pdd. as my machine shop local guy just retired so I don’t trust any shops with this type of build
It's tough to know where you'll end up power-wise in the future. The main differences between a 500 HP engine build and an 850 HP engine build would be the head studs, o-ringing or fire ringing, piston to wall clearance, ring gap, and coated piston skirts vs stock. More power means more heat so clearances get opened up for the higher power levels. When you start looking for 1000+ HP is when the build drastically changes because rod failure comes into play, camshaft size, etc.
I am curious if you are running a Fass or just a modified stock mechanical pump on this unit?
Also how are you keeping the head down? I have a somewhat similar setup but I cant seam to keep headgaskets in it
This truck was running a stock replacement PDD hotrod lift pump: powerdrivendiesel.com/product/hot-rod-modified-lift-pump-2/
This truck was also running o-rings and Torque Master Head Studs: powerdrivendiesel.com/product/optitorque-torquemaster-head-stud-kit-for-12-valve-cummins/
How often should a person change oil on a setup like this when using a quality oil like pdd synthetic?
At this power level, regular oil changes at 5k miles is pretty standard. When you get up into the 900+ HP range, fuel dilution can become an issue and the limiting factor requiring more frequent oil changes. If you sample and test your oil, you can definitely go to longer intervals 5k+ as long as your air filtration is good to keep the silica down and you keep an eye on the wear metals in the lab reports. This exact truck had quite a bit of oil sampling done over the past 100k miles and Will pushed the oil change interval to just over 10k miles a few times and it had 13k miles on the last oil change right as the engine was removed. On the flip side, some of our BIG power race engines get fresh oil every 20 to 25 dyno pulls and after every 5 quarter mile passes. On these big power setups, the oil starts to smell like fuel and combustion gasses because of dilution and the extreme blowby that occurs with 1800+ HP.
Hi how can I contact you’re shop ? I’m interested in a Cummins engine.
Give us a call 435-962-9555
Do you find that the 160hp Ppumps dont respond as well to timing increases as the 215?
We find that you need to add more timing on the 160 p pump to make power
Can you guys comment on when or where the limit is for cylinder ring replacement and bore vs re-ring limit? My 12v blows light blue colored smoke on idle or low rpm.
I’m guessing you’re talking about piston rings and you’re concerned because you see blue smoke. First thing would be to diagnose the cause of the blue smoke, yes it’s most likely engine oil entering the combustion chamber but it could be bad turbo seals or bad valve guide seals. Does the engine have excessive blow-by, hard to start, lack power? Jumping to the most expensive to replace component is fun when you’re spending OPM, other people’s money. As for the limit, ring-end gap specs are listed for each ring in the service manual. With modded / high horsepower engines the ring-end gap is intentionally opened up so it all depends on what your projected cylinder pressure and temps are going to be.
We've torn apart high mileage 12v engines with 040" top ring gap from wear that only used 1 qt of oil per 5k mile oil change. Whereas the stock maximum top ring gap is closer to 026". The same engine with a hone job and new rings would be good to go, just on the looser end of factory spec at 025" or so gap with the new rings and fresh hone.
Question for you. I have a 93 1st gen w350. I would like to build it 600whp. It is a automatic transmission. Would you recommend keeping it auto or would I be better off going to a g56. I want to do p pump swap and your compound setup , k27 with the 369? What would you suggest? Thank you for the good imfo.
Both will be great options but if it is a auto you will need an auto out of a 94 or new tuck so you will have lock up
Is Rotella oil junk?? T4 T6?
Any new specification CK diesel oil on the shelf is junk compared to the older CI4+ spec oil that these engines used to run on back in the 90's and early 2000's. Will's comment wasn't intended to target Rotella necessarily, basically any new spec oil that is designed to protect DPF or Cat and sacrifices engine wear. If you have a new truck that was designed to run the new spec oil, Rotella T6 or whatever is your only option unless you want to sacrifice exhaust treatment system longevity to better protect the engine internals.
@@pddofficial K thanks for the reply! Im new to the diesel game and i wanna take care of my engine and trans. I have an 24v Cummins, and the forums talked shell Rotella up? What would you suggest?
How much power can I push to the rear tires safety and reliability with a 24v cummins I currently have 305,000 miles on the clock I'd like to bump my power level to about 500hp at the tires
500 HP to the tires is doable with the SO or standard output 215 or 235 HP models. With the factory 245 HP based HO models with the 6 speed manual, the injection pump limits power output to the 450 to 490 HP range.
@@pddofficial how do I know if I have the ho model or not I'm kinda new to the diesel engine I've only owned this truck for about a year now
How often did you check your valve lash?
It was kept up and checked every 25k miles or so. The cam wear is from the combination of high miles and really heavy prototype beehive valve springs with double the seat and nose pressure of stock valve springs loaded through the stock 12v tappets that measure just 1.20" whereas most built engines with upgraded "race" valve springs are running a minimum of 1.3" early 24v tappet, aftermarket 1.45" or even 1.5" Common Rail 24v tappets.
What oil would you guys use if it wasn’t your own?
Oil with high levels ZDDP and the proper viscosity are the key. We've had good luck with the Joe Gibbs Driven oils on the race trucks back before we had our own high performance diesel oil. We've tried Valvoline VR-1 60 weight and it performed well, but it's a little thick vs 15w-40 oil for sure.
This definitely makes me feel better about where I'm going with my 99 24v. Guess the weak link is still that stupid VP44, hope to be shed of it one day.
VP's are fine, just need to be changed out every 100k to 200k miles when they fail. Honda's and VW's need a timing belt every 100k.... so what's a VP44? The VP trucks start really nice and they make great power till you try to get past 500 HP, then you need an SO pump or a Hotrod VP44 pump.
@@pddofficial lucky for me I have an SO, ever since I swapped in the new VP44 she has been running smooth, but something about a P-Pumped 24 valve just sounds right to me!
What valvetrain cominations would you reccomend for a 93 12v with 5x.014s and a 62sxe? And can this injector and turbo combo make 450-500 reliably with a quick spool
If it is still a VE truck you won't make 450+rwhp with an iinjector that small. I made 488rwhp many times with an old 62-68 .80ar s300 but with 6x.018 injectors and a lot of head work stock everything else.
@@bcbloc02 hmm alright ive read a ton about it being able to atleast make 400 with a reasonable turbo and 5x.012s, just needs the pump cranked up and tuned out
@@tylerbrotzman7452 Probably be right around 400 engine hp with that but not wheel hp. I had a 93 with the pump maxed and 370 marine injectors which are 5x.012 and a hx40-16 and it dynoed just a bit over 325 to the tire and it burned clean so I don't think changing anything that didn't increase fuel would add 75rwhp. I am going to say most of the 400rwhp 5x.012 ve trucks have never actually been on a dyno. They are like the 600rwhp 7.3 powerstrokes.
@@bcbloc02 what was it at pump timing wise? and correction factor on the dyno would probably change it some, i know some brands read high and others read lower, could be a classic case of inaccurate dynoes with the 450 to 500 hp ve's i have beeb reading about
When you increase hp and torque will that always cause higher engine and transmission temperatures when towing up long grades? Utah has some long 5% and 6% grades on I-70 where my slightly modified, 1998 12 valve gets close to maximum temperatures pulling a 14,000 lb 5th wheel. What modifications have you seen that may increase pulling power without having to pull over to let the truck cool down?
Compound turbos help tremendously with EGT control which in turn helps with overheating. OEM copper cored radiator also cools much better than the newer aluminum aftermarket "cheap" radiators. For the transmission a finned deep pan makes a noticeable difference like 15 to 20 degree drop on most trucks. If that's not enough, adding another transmission cooler and fan under the truck is good for another 20 or so degree drop.
When really pulling hard up the big longer hills, kicking the heater on high and rolling down the windows in summertime is another way to pull more heat out of the engine/cooling system. And finally, the guys towing really heavy like 25k gross usually add an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator to push air in addition to the mechanical factory fan pulling air. A final help is to run a lower temp t-stat so you approach the hill with a lower base water temp.
All that said, the factory cooling system is not adequate to keep 600 sustained HP cool on the mountains pulling a load, it takes a semi truck cooling system to do that. But 600 HP sustained is enough to run 100+ MPH up any grade here in Utah with 14k 5th wheel.
@@pddofficial Thanks, I'll have to look into it.
pdfofficial is right. cooling systems are designed around duty cycle more than max hp. my 36,000LB FL80 275hp C7 🐱 has a much larger cooling system capacity than any 2500 or 3500 pickup built in the 90s. the only suggestion that i will add to his is add an auxiliary heater somewhere outside the cab to get rid of some heat. don't waste your time with anything less than 40,000 btu.
also.. can a later model ram electro viscous fan clutch be retrofitted to your 5.9? if not then on some viscous fan clutches the engage temperature can be adjusted. i did that on my other (International) boom truck when i put a new one on. i didn't like the engage temp on the new unit (oem no longer available). all it took was loosening the hold tab screw on the bi metallic coil and moving it a few notches. that won't STOP your heating up but it would give more time until reaching higher temps.
Indian canyon and sheep creek is 8%+, utah boy here also ;)
Did you pull with this setup or daily driver?
It was everyday driver and towed regularly for 60-70k
What were the torque number ?
This motor what making 1400 foot pounds
What kind of power should I expect with only 18° timing let’s say I want a very drivable towing/fun truck
Power depends on the whole combination, not just timing. For example: Will's 95' 12 valve junker drag truck engine with compound turbos used to make 675 HP at 18* timing about 980 HP at 26* timing and 1075 HP at 32* timing. But a stock truck that makes 180 HP at 13.5* stock timing might only gain 10 HP with 18* timing, but it might also pick up 1 mpg and drop 100* EGT while towing.