I appreciate the video pacing and clarity. Thank you. A few things I would recommend are to put very light anti-seize on the disc retaining bolt and the big 17mm bolts. Never C-clamp the piston back in with force on only one side as it can get cockeyed and damage the piston. Apply force in the middle of the piston simply by using a piece of wood or such to spread the forces and allow the piston to go in square. The sliders should also be removed and cleaned and greased every time. False economy to reassemble and hope for the best.
Nice video...little tip: when u put back piston, open liquid brake tray... And torque specs are 35 Nm for hexagon bolt and 200 Nm for ribbed collar bolt.
The inner nut on the calliper retaining bolts/sliding pin was 17mm on the Mk 7 Golf R I did recently. I ground down an old spanner so it was narrow enough to fit without damaging the rubber gaiter.
Will just replacing the brake pads with new ones get rid of the check brake pads warning light? Or do you need to connect a diagnosis machine to remove the warning light?
Tools used:
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-Copper Grease: amzn.to/3D2gP50
I appreciate the video pacing and clarity. Thank you. A few things I would recommend are to put very light anti-seize on the disc retaining bolt and the big 17mm bolts. Never C-clamp the piston back in with force on only one side as it can get cockeyed and damage the piston. Apply force in the middle of the piston simply by using a piece of wood or such to spread the forces and allow the piston to go in square. The sliders should also be removed and cleaned and greased every time. False economy to reassemble and hope for the best.
Nice clear, perfect explanation of what is needed to make the job easy.
Nice video...little tip: when u put back piston, open liquid brake tray...
And torque specs are 35 Nm for hexagon bolt and 200 Nm for ribbed collar bolt.
By ribbed collar bolt which one do you mean? The one which holds the carrier to the wheel hub?
Also: what's the torque spec for the T30?
@@Ghostlight89 yes..disc carrier to wheel hub...torque is 200 NM. Use new bolt..
The inner nut on the calliper retaining bolts/sliding pin was 17mm on the Mk 7 Golf R I did recently. I ground down an old spanner so it was narrow enough to fit without damaging the rubber gaiter.
Will just replacing the brake pads with new ones get rid of the check brake pads warning light? Or do you need to connect a diagnosis machine to remove the warning light?
Note that a normal 17mm spanner is too wide to fit on the retaining bolts
Hey how did all these parts work out? I think I just got the same exact setup to replace all my brakes with lol.
Very clear. Excellent
Nice video, thanks. I don't know if I could have gotten those 21mm carrier bolts off without an air impact wrench though. They were tough!
For those without an impact wrench a breaker bar will work.
Thanks, absolutely excellent video
Great explanation! Thank you
I heard that you have to put it in service mode before you changing the brakes due the electronic parking brake is that true?
Parking brake only act on the rear wheels, so not a concern with front brakes.
Is this the same for mk7 gtd? Same size tools needed etc
Thank you!
what do u mean by just pump the peddle a bit.did u have to plead the bakes is well if so can u make a vid an show
There is no need to bleed the brakes. The pumping of the pedal is just to get the piston back in to place up against the pads.
Hi..the 2 ribbed bolts ( torque specs 200 NM) do u advise to use Loctite? or is not necessary?... thanks
Yes, Loctite can be used for an extra layer of security.
Is back brake disk and pads the same
No, we have the rear brake pad/disc replacement video for this model here: th-cam.com/video/7-aIf7JktU0/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=SelectAutomotive
the 17mm wrench needs to be thinner than a standard wrench