Anet A8 upgrade - metal frame
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2019
- The original frame of the Anet A8 is not very rigid, which is terrible for print speed and quality of prints. Therefore we will replace the acrylic frame with new metal frame. This means I now can literally double the print speed and get better quality.
As promised here are the basic dimensions and parts you will need.
Parts to print: www.thingiverse.com/thing:340...
30x30 mm extrusions:
jindrasykora.com/3030n
jindrasykora.com/3030 (Amazon affiliate link)
X-axis - 2X - 260 mm, 320 mm - 1x
Y-axis - 2X - 405 mm
Z-axis - 2x - 465 mm
M6 10 mm bolt - 80x
M6 15 mm bolt - 20x
M6 flange nut - 100x
M3 14 mm bolt 4x - bolts of this specific length are necessary for securing the Y-axis linear rods in place.
You will obviously need more M3 bolts and nut, but you can take these from the original frame.
All of the other parts you can print your self before you take the original printer apart.
Quantity of 3D printed parts:
- Z_axis_corner_bracket - 2x
- Corner_bracket - 6x
- Cable_Holder_3030
- Corner-coupler-flat - 2x
All of the other parts can be printed just once. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I have just finished the build, had to modify the Yaxis rod holder motor side as my thumb screws were fouling and there wasn't a Z stop mounting so i had to make that too but it seems to be pretty good, you don't HAVE TO get the V lot extrusion cut if you have a chop saw ;) saved a bunch cutting my own, got 2X 1500m and was left over with a little over a foot. TY for this video i had to stop it several time to get an idea of what it was you were doing and the orientation of the parts you used.... Great Work TY
Nice build, very solid. Changing the ball linear glides for plastic liners will go a long way to replace that gritty slude feel with tripue smoothness. LM8UU exactly replaces the ball bearing units on bed and head. Longer are needed for z.
Thank you for the suggestion I will definitely consider it..
Good job mate!
You deserve more views and subscriber , you make good video thanks man !
Thank you, mate...
I find your solution with 30x30 amazing. No fancy stuff, just simple nuts and flanged bolts you can find anywhere at hardware store. You did an amazing job! It has some serious potential. You could think about a linear rails aswell just adding other 2 profiles to support the rails.
Thank you... 😊 linear rails would be great, I might add them in the future, but I should upgrade the control board and stepper drivers first... 😂
@@JindraSykora I have two Anet A8. The first one is installed on a Tatara Hayabusa frame. I just got and skr 1.4 turbo+2208 Uart for that🙂
@@JindraSykora I was just checking BOM for this project... I did not make the math but...is the the final build volume identical to the original A8?
yes, it should be the same...
Great job mate, subscribed.
Thanks for posting this - I'll be converting pretty soon myself!
Awesome, let me know how it goes...
Nice design sir
i love it
Thank you! I build it and it's works very well! Great job ;)
Hi, great job! I have an AM8 that I'm still finishing setting, what speed can you reach with this printer without losing print quality?
Thank you
thanks for your great effort but I have some comments, first if there is option to avaoid the belt in the Y axis for more accuracy and avoid the difficulty in assembly second if some thing ready in the design to avoid Z axis calobration if any other design make Z axis ready when assemblin no need to Calibration , third if there is autolevel sensor for accuracy ehen level bed that were my comments otherwise you did a great job
Thank you... Honestly, I don´t plan on making any upgrades to this design. But you are more than welcome to remix it and solve any problems... :)
I've done the same upgrade. Works well. If you want more speed I think there might be better options that result in a lighter x and y axis.
Yeah, you're absolutely correct. I am working on a lighter x-axis at the moment... :)
@@JindraSykora I've been thinking about making the Y-axis lighter. I've switched to Drylin bearings and have printed bearing blocks to hold them. I've also purchased some carbon fibre sheet to replace the Aluminium H and convert to a 3 point mount. I found an article on how to make a bed heater from wire and plan to replace the stock heater with a wire heater pressed to the underside of the glass using kiln "paper". Kiln paper is a bit like a fire blanket it's used by glass makers to press indentations into hot glass. All this is at the planning stage.
@@ColinWatters Theres plenty of DC and AC silicone heaters available on Ebay cheap direct from China. Some printers are already coming with the AC installed.
@@ColinWatters Making the Y-axis lighter would definitely help... I was thinking about replacing the Y-carriage as well. Please let me know how it went and what difference does it make.
Tak jsem nakonec dodělat tu svoji A6.Nakonec jsem musel spoustu věci znovu vymodelovat nebo modifikovat,ale dotáhl jsem to až do konce.Do par dnů vložím odkaz na thinkgiven teď to jestebudu testovat :)
Paráda 🙂 tak sem pak hoď odkaz...
I upgrade my ANET A8 (video in my profile) with metal frame and glass bed. Results is amazing. No ghost, no vibration almost perfekt.
nice work... 😊
Great video, thank you
supprised of this good video from a small channel! good video im subscribing!
Thank you..
W
Great Video, I am going to do similar. What size build plate could you fit? looks like you have a lot of room.
Hi, thank you... I am using the original Anet A8 plate which is 220x220 mm. There would be room for a bigger one in the X direction but not in Y...
@@JindraSykora Do you think it would be possible to extend that build area for the Y axis?
amazing upgrade.. do one more upgrade to it to make it completely worth it.. get some PTFE bearing to make it almost silent.. these ball bearing barrings makes too much noise..
Yeah, that might help as well.
@@JindraSykora i was really dissapointed when you upgraded it,, spent many hours in printing parts.. paid for 30*30 extrusion.. assembled it.. and didnt changed bearings.. :D
I used this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2969103
Values depends of printer calibration.
Maybe some tries are needed.
like your build see a few little things that would change. out of all the am8 on thingiverse think this the one going to build
Thank you, that is nice to hear... There are a few things I would like to change to, just can't find the time to do it...
Nice design, You could say to what extent the two arms of the z-axes and the two y-bars are placed. a small scheme of measurements in thingiverse would clarify a lot.
Hi, I did actually plan to do that, but I somehow forgot... Thank you for the reminder, I will put it up ASAP.
@@JindraSykora OKAY. thank you very much, I almost have all the pieces for the conversion.
Look at this other partner what design for the electronics box. power supply with a led, and material support
www.thingiverse.com/make:467635
@@marioc5709 I have just uploaded the scheme on Thingiverse, you can have a look.. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401790
That conversion looks amazing. Electronics are something I am yet to do...
@@JindraSykora
I have all the printed pieces, saw the scheme ,and have the frame preassembled.
my doubts are the placement measures of: y_rod_holder_front.stl, y_motor_mount.stl,y_rod_y_stop_back.stl.
You could mark in your scheme the exact position of these pieces.
@@marioc5709 Yeah, no problem. I will post it in the evening...
Zdravím, osobně tento projekt dělám na A6L (jiný vozík x vozík, protože u a6 je jiný), rád bych modely s tím mojím upravením zveřejnil, a k tomu udělal PDF návod na stavbu atp.
úpravy takové, abychom nemuseli používat 2 druhy jiných délek Šroubů atp.
jelikož je to remix vašeho projektu, tak bych chtěl vaše svolení.
Děkuji za odpověď předem.
Will 2020 extrusion frame be rigid enough for this project?
Many people use 2020 extrusion, so I believe that they should work as well...
I just finished build that you designed. Have you made any upgrades for the new build?
That is awesome, I hope you are happy with it... I have printed a new spool holder and I have the spool on the top of the printer now.
Not sure if you are still monitoring the comments on this video, but I might as well ask because it'snot in the video or the thingiverse post:
Is there a reason that you used flange nuts instead of hammer nuts??
Is there a list of how many of each/which model we need to print?
Have a few more but I'm curious
Hi, well I used flange nuts because they are easy to get and easy to work with... Sorry, there is no list with the number of parts. What are the other questions? :)
@@JindraSykora that's all. If the parts shown in the picture you put in the video before assembly has everything I should be good. Looks like six of one bracket and 2 of the other. Can't wait to start this build. Just waiting on the extrusions from China 🤞
Ahoj, super návod. Mám akorát menší dotaz.Mám Anet A6, je mezi tím nějaký vetší rozdíl?
Ahoj, díky... S Anet A6 nemám zkušenosti, takže bohužel netuším.
@@JindraSykora to nevadí, i tak díky :) Počkám, až mi přijde nový filament a pustím se do toho a kdyžtak sem pak napíšu moje postřehy,třeba to pomůže i někomu jinému (jestli můžu ? ) :)
@@jaroslavcerny547 to je jasný
@@JindraSykora mám ještě jeden dotaz,ty M3 14mm ( nepovedlo se mi sehnat , tak mám 16mm ale budu je krátit) opravdu musí mít přesně 14mm nebo je tam nějaká tolerance +-
@@jaroslavcerny547 hele to taky nevím.. :D ale kdyžtak by asi šlo dát pár podložek..
Ahoj, hliníkové časti si kde kupoval ? Amazon alebo niaky shop ?
www.ehlinik.cz/al-profil-kombi-stojka/pro-CBU0000101.html dokonce ti to nařežou na přesné rozměry...
@@JindraSykora diky
hi! sorry i didnt understand how many 30x30 mm extrusions do i need to buy?
Hi, you can find the quantity and length in the description... 😉
I agree that a metal frame is better than original A8 acrilic frame. However I am wondering if it worths to spend on any metal frame vs. spend on a new ender 3 or somethig similar. As Amazon does not send this 3030 frame to my country. eBay does with some extra charge plus taxes plus, ... It is easier/cheaper to import a new 3D printer. I do not scare to do any upgrade like this.
By the way could be possible to hack X or Y size (260mm instead of 240mm) with your frame size so I can still print the SPANNERHANDS Spool case? My Anet A8 has a maximum free travel on X of 268mm.
As I have already print them with my original acrilic frame at real 100% size hacking X_BED_SIZE to 260mm instead of original 240mm and X offset = -3 mm.
Hi, you are absolutely correct, that it would be much easier. However, I have already had Anet A8 at home and was able to source the extrusions locally for about 20 USD. And I did enjoy building it. :)
I suppose you could stretch it to 260 mm, but have not given that any thought yet. Because I mostly print smaller stuff and have 220x220 mm BuildTak surface anyway.
bro this correct sizes of the frame to cut?
Yeah, the sizes should be correct...
Dobrý den, můžu prosím poprosit o počet vytisknutých dílu na stavbu ? Děkuji za odpověď předeme.
Hello, can I please ask for the number of printed works to be built? Thank you for your reply in advance.
Of course, here they are...
Quantity of 3D printed parts:
- Z_axis_corner_bracket - 2x
- Corner_bracket - 6x
- Cable_Holder_3030
- Corner-coupler-flat - 2x
All of the other parts should be printed just once.
@@JindraSykora Děkuji
Thank you
post a make in thingiverse
what measures tines in the trabel limits.
The pieces do not leave me centered at the time of printing
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
Ok, I will try to do that... :)
It would be nice to prepare the printer for closing, I mean, some solution to have it closed
Yes, I am thinking about it as well... I will probably enclose it with some acrylic in aluminum frame.
Mine is made of 5mm wood 😁👌🏿
does it feel sturdy?
Ajay Sudhera nope 😁
anyone know a solution using 20x20mm extrusions ?
there are solutions on thingiverse.com
Can I use a 20x20 profile?
You can, but you would need to modify most of the printed parts..
Can you tell me what sizes to set in the slicer for modification?
@@wladimirkarpenko6320 Modifiing the scale in slicer will probably not work... But there are other projects on Thingiverse specificaly for 20x20 profiles.
Why belt on y axis??? Why not a lead screw like other rail?
This was the original set up and it works well, so no need to change this... :)
Lead screw sounds extremely slow?
Do I really need 100 Bolts and Nuts for this?
Well, maybe a little bit less than that... but they are very cheap and it's better to have a few extra than having to run to hardware store in the middle of the build... 😉😉
can u build scratch?
?
Столик наоборот собран
Super projekt, jdu se taky pustit do přestavby. Všechny plastové díly mám už vytištěné, akorát čekám na profily, chtěl jsem černý elox a ten není tak běžně k dostání. Jen sdělím svůj tip na použití matic, už v minulosti se mi osvědčily tyto tištěné adaptéry/vložky na klasické matice. Drží perfektně a zaručí že se matice neprotočí. Jestli stále udržuješ nějakou podporu pro tento projekt, tak je klidně mezi soubory přidej ;) ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766896 ) Dále nejsou vůbec špatné tyto kabelové očka na "cable menegment" ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2568136 )
Ještě by jsem se rád zeptal, jestli nemáš tip případně vlastní tvorbu pro "cable chain" na osu "Y" Většina co jsem viděl tak je na původní rám, a upravené verze pro profily 3030 nepočítají s rohovou výstuhou osy "Z" takže jedině něco poupravit na míru, ale pokud jsi již něco takového dělal tak ať se s tím zbytečně neodměřuju, navíc ještě jak jsem psal, profily stále nemám tak není z čeho vycházet, a rád bych měl při přestavbě vše nachystané ;) Kabely na bedu jsou dost namáhané, už jednou se mi jeden uvolnil, takže na ose "Y" to z vlastní zkušenosti považuji za nutnost.
Přeji spoustu úspěchů při dalších podobných projektech :)
Ahoj, promiň za pozdní odpověď, z nějakého důvodu jsem na ten koment narazil až teď... Cable chain na Y osu jsem nedělal, ale pokud už ses do toho pustil a máš třeba na thigiverse model, tak bych na to rád kouknul ;) Jinak díky za tipy i takhle s odstupem času super.. :)
@@JindraSykora ahoj, no popravdě, za tu dobu už bylo na tiskárně tolik úprav, že ani na cable chain nedošlo :D jen jsem předělal osy na POM kolečka, chod se krásně zjemnil, zmizely veškeré vibrace, a na tisku to jde dost znát... Na thingi to nemám ale není problém ti poslat STL... Je to takové low budget řešení na klasický dostupné AL profily, ale funkční... klasické VSlot profily jsem u nás nikde pořádně nenašel... Nicméně na Anet se teď trochu práší, věnují se teď hlavně druhé tiskárně tak uvidím co z ní vyleze :D
dude. put some oil on those bearings. the noise omg
:D :D yeah, noise is terrible, but what you are hearing is the X-axis belt rubbing against the tensioner...
@@JindraSykora lube. always use lube. at least that's what my gf always said xD