Awesome video. Thanks for the knowledge. Bought an 06 with no start this morning. Towed it home, procrastinated for most of the day. Watched this video and went out in the cold and did some of the diagnostics you did and had it running within 30 minutes. Thank you.
I came across this video now and glad I did. Thank you for the diagnosis and process. I have a similar issue on my 2005 Five hundred. Initially the vehicle dies off after short distance and I connected my scanner to read live data. It shows the fuel pressure reading over 80psi when it dies. I changed the fuel pump and it improves a bit but still dies if AC is on and much longer time. Was advised to clean the fuel injects so I took the intake off, replaced the lower intake manifold with a spare one I had and car refused to start. I cleaned the old lower I take (with the injectors and returned it) but still refused to start. I've also cleaned the cam position sensor and Crank position sensor but issue persists. Fuel pressure is great, injectors fire, there is spark, drained the tank and added new fuel but same issue. Any ideas will be appreciated
Also from the live data, the CMP and CPS are in sync while cranking which makes me believe it is not timing but could be wrong. I noticed one strange thing while checking electrical but not sure if that could be the cause. The fuze supplying the coils/PCM is supposed to be hot at ignition on but noticed there is a partial ground on it when tested but once ignition is switched to on, ground disappears. I've checked all the wiring and everything seems to be fine. Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thanks
@@OgunjobiDavid you say you installed a different set of injectors? How do you know that they are delivering fuel? Do you have spark on the coils? Confirm spark then with the fuel pressure reading on the gage and 80 seems high, disable the fuel pump and crank the engine. Fuel pressure should begin dropping while cranking if the fuel injectors are delivering fuel.
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for replying. Yes, I replaced the injectors and they are delivering. Just like in your case here, after disabling the fuel pump, the pressure dropped and the spark plugs are wet. I also bought a spark tester and connected in between the coils and the spark plugs and they are showing visible sparks
@@PhillipBailey The engine oil is normal and not overfill. I replaced the spark plugs but they also got wet. At some points, it was backfiring and at one time, I removed 1 plug completely and it started but pressing the accelerator did not increase the RPM. It went off within seconds and didn't start again
I’m having a similar issue with my 04 2valve. I have 12 volts at the inertia switch but .01 volts at the pump, will try to fire with carb cleaner. I’ve replaced the fuel pump, bypassed the built in fuel pump relay, replaced the cjb, still no start. My problem happened when it was a bad storm . My trucks hood was directly below a drain. Truck never ran after that. It’s currently at a shop and those guys are scratching their heads. I know it’s something simple because the truck runs great. Btw great information in the video.
Check for power at pin 5 of the fuel pump driver. It's a white wire. Should have power there for a second at key on and any time it's cranking. If no power check at connector C3138 on the outside of the frame below the driver door. If power here then there is an open in the harness from there to the FPD module. You can temporarily bypass the FPD by disconnecting the connector and jumping two circuits. Simply insert two 15 amp mini fuses into the terminals jumping pins 4 to 5 and pins 2 to 3. If you have power leaving the driver on pin 4 and it's not reaching the fuel pump in the tank you'll have an open somewhere between the two test points. Confirm a good ground on pin 3 of the FPD as well. If you have no power reaching C3138 pin 12 but it's leaving the inertia switch then there's an open in circuit 886 orange black wire between the inertia switch and C3138. Hope this helps you. Let us know what you find.
GREAT VIDEO! Best one Yet. Only problem is I'm having a similar issue with my 2006 F150 5.4. I'm a little bit panicky now after watching your video lol. It thru a camshaft positioning sensor code a few weeks ago and last week, it died on the wife four blocks from the house. Got it home, dead battery so no new codes! I've changed both camshaft sensors to no avail. Have spark on four coils so far can hear the fuel pump come on. No Schrader valve. Checked all fuses & relays, safety neutral, ignition switch etc. 7 days later, I'm at a loss. I'm going to check grounds tomorrow morning and look for a potato lol. Any kind of help would be great! I hope it didn't jump time man. Thanks! 🇨🇦
An 06 F150 5.4 should have a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail. You should be able to confirm fuel pressure via scan data. Does your fuel pump run on key on for a second? This one turned out to be a mixture of diesel fuel in it and contaminated plugs. This engine was very loose as well.
Same problem with my 06 F-150 new fuel pump and filter cleaned out the tank new spark plugs with ignition coil’s, Starter gave out so replaced that with the battery but it still cranks slow individually took the injectors out cleaned them on my meter I’m getting 49 for my fuel pressure we assumed it might be timing.
Did you end up finding it to be a cam timing issue? I have a very similar almost exact symptoms. Except I don't have a scope. Odly I did have a blown fuse to fuel pump and water in the gas. Both those fixed. Great fuel pressure and now have good fuel samples. Before you started scoping the cam/crank signals did you look at live data to see if cam/crank switch to sync when cranking? Mine does switch to sync while cranking making me not want to believe it's a timing issue. All the injectors hold pressure (no fuel leaking past) but it's loading the plugs up so much it won't try to fire. When I actuate the f.p. off, it tries to clear the cylinders but just pops through the intake. Removed O2 sensors to make sure the cats where not restricted. I can't understand why ford doesn't have a cheater way of checking base timing. At least on a Mercedes there is a way to look at the reluctor wheel windows... Hate to break it down not even knowing.
This truck had contaminated fuel with diesel I believe, this fouled the plugs and caused the no start. It does need chains, guides and phasers but it left here running.
That's what I'm thinking too but is it out enough to prevent it from firing at all. I'm going to do a relative compression test and sync with number one if there is a concern, it sounds even just slow. I'm going to put in a set of fresh plugs and see if I can figure out why its cranking slow.
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Awesome video. Thanks for the knowledge. Bought an 06 with no start this morning. Towed it home, procrastinated for most of the day. Watched this video and went out in the cold and did some of the diagnostics you did and had it running within 30 minutes. Thank you.
Glad it helped you. What was the problem on yours?
Needed to unplug the cam phasers haha
I think the chain had skipped a tooth possibly and wouldn't start with phasers plugged in as a result
I came across this video now and glad I did. Thank you for the diagnosis and process.
I have a similar issue on my 2005 Five hundred. Initially the vehicle dies off after short distance and I connected my scanner to read live data. It shows the fuel pressure reading over 80psi when it dies.
I changed the fuel pump and it improves a bit but still dies if AC is on and much longer time.
Was advised to clean the fuel injects so I took the intake off, replaced the lower intake manifold with a spare one I had and car refused to start. I cleaned the old lower I take (with the injectors and returned it) but still refused to start. I've also cleaned the cam position sensor and Crank position sensor but issue persists.
Fuel pressure is great, injectors fire, there is spark, drained the tank and added new fuel but same issue.
Any ideas will be appreciated
Also from the live data, the CMP and CPS are in sync while cranking which makes me believe it is not timing but could be wrong.
I noticed one strange thing while checking electrical but not sure if that could be the cause.
The fuze supplying the coils/PCM is supposed to be hot at ignition on but noticed there is a partial ground on it when tested but once ignition is switched to on, ground disappears.
I've checked all the wiring and everything seems to be fine.
Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks
@@OgunjobiDavid you say you installed a different set of injectors? How do you know that they are delivering fuel? Do you have spark on the coils? Confirm spark then with the fuel pressure reading on the gage and 80 seems high, disable the fuel pump and crank the engine. Fuel pressure should begin dropping while cranking if the fuel injectors are delivering fuel.
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for replying.
Yes, I replaced the injectors and they are delivering. Just like in your case here, after disabling the fuel pump, the pressure dropped and the spark plugs are wet.
I also bought a spark tester and connected in between the coils and the spark plugs and they are showing visible sparks
@@OgunjobiDavid well it could be out of time or the plugs could be fuel fouled like this truck was. How's the engine oil? Overfull, full of gasoline?
@@PhillipBailey
The engine oil is normal and not overfill.
I replaced the spark plugs but they also got wet. At some points, it was backfiring and at one time, I removed 1 plug completely and it started but pressing the accelerator did not increase the RPM. It went off within seconds and didn't start again
I’m having a similar issue with my 04 2valve. I have 12 volts at the inertia switch but .01 volts at the pump, will try to fire with carb cleaner. I’ve replaced the fuel pump, bypassed the built in fuel pump relay, replaced the cjb, still no start.
My problem happened when it was a bad storm . My trucks hood was directly below a drain. Truck never ran after that.
It’s currently at a shop and those guys are scratching their heads. I know it’s something simple because the truck runs great. Btw great information in the video.
Check for power at pin 5 of the fuel pump driver. It's a white wire. Should have power there for a second at key on and any time it's cranking. If no power check at connector C3138 on the outside of the frame below the driver door. If power here then there is an open in the harness from there to the FPD module. You can temporarily bypass the FPD by disconnecting the connector and jumping two circuits. Simply insert two 15 amp mini fuses into the terminals jumping pins 4 to 5 and pins 2 to 3. If you have power leaving the driver on pin 4 and it's not reaching the fuel pump in the tank you'll have an open somewhere between the two test points. Confirm a good ground on pin 3 of the FPD as well. If you have no power reaching C3138 pin 12 but it's leaving the inertia switch then there's an open in circuit 886 orange black wire between the inertia switch and C3138. Hope this helps you. Let us know what you find.
GREAT VIDEO! Best one Yet. Only problem is I'm having a similar issue with my 2006 F150 5.4. I'm a little bit panicky now after watching your video lol. It thru a camshaft positioning sensor code a few weeks ago and last week, it died on the wife four blocks from the house. Got it home, dead battery so no new codes! I've changed both camshaft sensors to no avail. Have spark on four coils so far can hear the fuel pump come on. No Schrader valve. Checked all fuses & relays, safety neutral, ignition switch etc. 7 days later, I'm at a loss. I'm going to check grounds tomorrow morning and look for a potato lol. Any kind of help would be great! I hope it didn't jump time man. Thanks! 🇨🇦
An 06 F150 5.4 should have a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail. You should be able to confirm fuel pressure via scan data. Does your fuel pump run on key on for a second? This one turned out to be a mixture of diesel fuel in it and contaminated plugs. This engine was very loose as well.
Same problem with my 06 F-150 new fuel pump and filter cleaned out the tank new spark plugs with ignition coil’s, Starter gave out so replaced that with the battery but it still cranks slow individually took the injectors out cleaned them on my meter I’m getting 49 for my fuel pressure we assumed it might be timing.
Did you end up finding it to be a cam timing issue? I have a very similar almost exact symptoms. Except I don't have a scope. Odly I did have a blown fuse to fuel pump and water in the gas. Both those fixed. Great fuel pressure and now have good fuel samples.
Before you started scoping the cam/crank signals did you look at live data to see if cam/crank switch to sync when cranking? Mine does switch to sync while cranking making me not want to believe it's a timing issue.
All the injectors hold pressure (no fuel leaking past) but it's loading the plugs up so much it won't try to fire. When I actuate the f.p. off, it tries to clear the cylinders but just pops through the intake. Removed O2 sensors to make sure the cats where not restricted.
I can't understand why ford doesn't have a cheater way of checking base timing. At least on a Mercedes there is a way to look at the reluctor wheel windows...
Hate to break it down not even knowing.
This truck had contaminated fuel with diesel I believe, this fouled the plugs and caused the no start. It does need chains, guides and phasers but it left here running.
Same problem with my 2006 f150 crank no start cam Phaser issues
I have the exact same problem in an 08 with the 5.4. Did you ever figure out the cause?
Plugs were fuel fouled, diesel fuel in gasoline and crankcase full of fuel. Loose timing chains and tensioners as well.
Loose chain and cam flip causing that waveform?
That's what I'm thinking too but is it out enough to prevent it from firing at all. I'm going to do a relative compression test and sync with number one if there is a concern, it sounds even just slow. I'm going to put in a set of fresh plugs and see if I can figure out why its cranking slow.