Hey thanks for kind words. Yes it can be tricky, but you can usually get her done. Will be working on the TS250 for awhile yet. So stay tuned. Thanks for watchin.
Thanks Dale ! I just removed and changed out my leaking fork seals, Its nice to see what's in store, This video came in very handy for me. Thanks for posting. Haynes Manual says 180 cc per leg, for the M model, just saying. Malc U.K.
We used to straighten cyl rods (solid core) for Cat excavators in the day. We always warmed them up to 60-80 degrees C in a hot batch before pressing them. I know the tubes on these forks are hollow so preheating may be counterproductive. I assume you checked the location of the bend with a straight edge to see if it is a full length bend or a localized bend at the mid way point. Very good instructive process all the same, thanks............
hi ,, well having recently aquired a 1974 ts250 this info is great,, must be 30 years since i changed fork ,, my bike is a us imort, ( im in uk ) , i bought it as a non runner but it runs now, had to aquire a lot of parts,, wasnt even a wiringloom on it,, had to build a battery box ,, im sure one of your vids showed me how,, any way,, its great to see these videos,, thx,,
Thanks Steve, Im glad your getting some info from these videos. Sounds like you have a project and are making some good headway on it. I sure appreciate you following the channel.
Just watched TS250 fork rebuild good video, you make it look so glamorus without showing the grunt work. Seems like I spend 60% of shop time cleaning. I'm moving right along on my 71 TS250 rebuild. I have another question on these steel wheels. Have you ever went back and left those rim locks out of the wheels and rebalance? I would like to mount good road tires.
Hey Gary, yes you know I spend most of my time cleaning don't you. You are right that is the worst part and the most necessary. You bet, I have left the rim locks out on many, I don't usually balance wheels because most of mine are more dirt bikes than anything. But it should be pretty easy to rebalance the wheels with some good street tires on them.
Hi Jim, Yes fork oil is better, fork oil was really pretty new back in the 70's, expensive and hard to get. Most folks, me included used motor oil. Motor oil has detergents in it and that causes foaming, foaming is not good for forks, air infused oil is not real good at damping. So yes, grab you some 10 wt. fork oil and enjoy the ride. Not sure what the amount is, just use what your manual says for the proper CC's of volume. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
This was before good damping was employed. In my experience 20 wt. helps get at least some damping. In the 80s the damping got much better, and 5 or 10 wt. oil was all that was needed. Thanks for watching.
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Patience of a saint straightening that tube.. I’d Probly have given it a couple of big whacks. 😃😃. Loving the 250 restore..takes me back over 40yrs.
Hey thanks for kind words. Yes it can be tricky, but you can usually get her done. Will be working on the TS250 for awhile yet. So stay tuned. Thanks for watchin.
Thanks Dale ! I just removed and changed out my leaking fork seals, Its nice to see what's in store, This video came in very handy for me. Thanks for posting. Haynes Manual says
180 cc per leg, for the M model, just saying. Malc U.K.
Thanks Malc, glad the video was some help, I don't remember how much oil I put in....did I not put the proper amount? Thanks again.
Fan form Thailand ❤️💕
Thank You Master Bi, its great to have you going along for the ride.
We used to straighten cyl rods (solid core) for Cat excavators in the day. We always warmed them up to 60-80 degrees C in a hot batch before pressing them. I know the tubes on these forks are hollow so preheating may be counterproductive. I assume you checked the location of the bend with a straight edge to see if it is a full length bend or a localized bend at the mid way point. Very good instructive process all the same, thanks............
Thank you! I've learned a ton.
Your welcome Corey, glad these old videos are of some help. Thanks for following the channel.
hi ,, well having recently aquired a 1974 ts250 this info is great,, must be 30 years since i changed fork ,, my bike is a us imort, ( im in uk ) , i bought it as a non runner but it runs now, had to aquire a lot of parts,, wasnt even a wiringloom on it,, had to build a battery box ,, im sure one of your vids showed me how,, any way,, its great to see these videos,, thx,,
Thanks Steve, Im glad your getting some info from these videos. Sounds like you have a project and are making some good headway on it. I sure appreciate you following the channel.
Just watched TS250 fork rebuild good video, you make it look so glamorus without showing the grunt work. Seems like I spend 60% of shop
time cleaning. I'm moving right along on my 71 TS250 rebuild. I have another question on these steel wheels. Have you ever went back and left those rim
locks out of the wheels and rebalance? I would like to mount good
road tires.
Hey Gary, yes you know I spend most of my time cleaning don't you. You are right that is the worst part and the most necessary. You bet, I have left the rim locks out on many, I don't usually balance wheels because most of mine are more dirt bikes than anything. But it should be pretty easy to rebalance the wheels with some good street tires on them.
Wwe cant get them open either..always tricky
What year model is this? Will this guide work for my my 1975 model? Ive done forks on an '07 fz6r, but I dont want to mess this job up!
This is a 1975 model.
So what's the trick when the spring just spins around inside and bottom bolt won't come all way out?
Jay the best way to get those bolts out is with an air or electric impact gun. Leave the spring and cap in place when you do it.
my 74 ts250 says to use 10w30 motor oil,do u recommend fork oil instead, mine says 255cc of oil,does that seem right
Hi Jim, Yes fork oil is better, fork oil was really pretty new back in the 70's, expensive and hard to get. Most folks, me included used motor oil. Motor oil has detergents in it and that causes foaming, foaming is not good for forks, air infused oil is not real good at damping. So yes, grab you some 10 wt. fork oil and enjoy the ride. Not sure what the amount is, just use what your manual says for the proper CC's of volume. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
Why 20W Fork Oil?
This was before good damping was employed. In my experience 20 wt. helps get at least some damping. In the 80s the damping got much better, and 5 or 10 wt. oil was all that was needed. Thanks for watching.
Seems like a lot of oil.
Yeah thats what I thought too, but the amount is correct.