Stuart Models S50 engine build Part1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- So a new project for the new year starts . Setting up to start machining the base or sole plate .
Since posting this video it has come to my attention that I have been criticised for my clamping technique . The clamp in question appears at the 30 minute mark in the video . The clamp is set on the very top step of the step block and appears unsafe . Although I agree that this is not best practice I can assure viewers that it is perfectly safe for the purpose it was being used ( temporary hold down for drilling a 3.1mm hole.) I shall address this in episode 3 and consider myself told off . This is why i do not attend . MEW forums . to many armchair critics .
Don't worry. I have very thick skin . ( probably due to having spent nearly 40 years as a toolmaker and all the accidents that I have had due to unsafe clamping ) Enjoy Guy's . Cheers Ade.
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
Found you via the ME Forum so the thread has done at least one good thing 🤣. Build looks great, subscribed so I can enjoy the rest, keep up the good work bach.
Don't worry Ade you have nothing to explain, the forum is full of x spurts who know it all and can arrive at a conclusion based on a cropped snapshot of your process without considering the overall picture. It even went further downhill with the table needing to be protected with plates to stop the clamps marking the table, I consider that if you need to do that then the x-spurts are torquing down waaay too much! And it's the first I've heard of using paper to stop the fixture moving, mind on my little'un the motor would stall first. ;>)
Keep doing what you're doing and have fun, oh by the way get some hinsulation, coffe with brandy will do. :>)
Hi Ade,Pembrokeshire being a small part of Gods country, born and brought up in H,west, been working and living overseas for the past twenty years, love our trips home. Hope things allow for ease of travel this year. I do enjoy your content and the unforgettable accent.
Hello friend. I'm slowly getting my work shop organized. I don't know where your located. I'm from Michigan, yep its winter time here too. My work shop is going in my basement, and stay warm. No projects done yet. This little steam kit, does look like fun.
Great start to this new world order Ade, It's this sort of old school machining that is keeping me going. My WM 180 is up and running and the workshop/garage is a haven from the difficulties we all face. Keep at it and God bless.
Blondihacks steam engine build is a different model but has been massively entertaining to watch, there have been parts where i've wondered how Ade would do it, or TOT, or Stefan... It would be nice to see all my favourite machinists collaborate to design and build some kind of mechanism with far more complexity in its construction than is practical, project egressish but just to show off being able to pull off some fancy and difficult machining without a CNC.
The Blondiehacks project has indeed been a treat to watch! I know Ades build will be equally educational, but is Bob His uncle too? Ha!
Hi Ade. Your as you go commentary comes across as a experienced manual machinist in my ears. Loosely, pop this in. I think I'm happy. Tony
Hello Ade,
This is going to be an interesting project… I do like watching how people approach holding and machining irregular shapes… a great start to the project.
Take care.
Paul,,
Another great video Ade. I'm a life time scale modeller kits, scratch build, plastic, resin, wood) recently turned to true model engineering, and this project is so helpful in showing me the way way forward. I've considered these Stuart kits as a step from my world into true model engineering, so will be watching with much interest. I was also dismayed at those "imitation" nuts that would hold the real casting down, and was heartened that you seemed to suggest you will deal with those!
Hi Terry good to hear from you. The 7BA bolts arrived today to do the job . Yes, the cast ones were a bit ugly . I want this as a bit of a display model but obviously fully functional on compressed air . I am sure it will run on steam but then I would need to build a boiler. One step at a time maybe . Cheers Ade.
Looks like another interesting project. Stay safe and warm.
I used the same method on all of my models of mounting the base to a square and ground plate and use that for machining all the surfaces works out perfect.
Perfect timing Ade.
My S50 arrived on Thursday !
I'll be one step behind you.
Many thanks.
Great work Ades. Nice project. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Such a good idea to use the aluminium block as a reference surface. 👏👏👍😀
Great idea using fixture plate, looking forward to the rest of the series
Glad to join this series early - I came across part 2 then started here.
"... if the bug bites ..." - heard that one before today 🤔😉. Have fun, Add!
That should have been "Have fun, Ade."
&/@#¢✓ autocorrect!
Looking forward to seeing the build, full steam ahead Ade.
Thanks for sharing.
Best regards from the Black Country.
John.
Great video Ade, I am really enjoying the flurry of kits being made in the machinist community at this time. It is amazing to learn all these neat setup tricks and the difference between different you-tubers. Enjoyed, cheers!
Great idea to use the aluminium to give a machining datum. Look forward to the next instalment. Re heating, Lidl are doing cheap oil filled electric radiators just now.
WoW Ade, thanks for the video, I am looking foreword to the build of the S50 engine you just made my day take care and keep worm
Looks good Ade. I’m glad you mentioned spot facing. I’ve seen others machining cast surfaces but not spot facing where screw heads will locate. It goes through me a bit to think of those high spots only giving partial seating otherwise.
Should be a good series of videos! Looking forward to the rest! Good work Ade!
Just found your channel. Looking forward to past and future videos. The aluminum tooling plate is a great idea.
looking forward to you building this
G'day Ade I really liked how you set the base of the engine on flat stock of aluminium, I'm going to do the same and I like how you clock and centre it before you started and this again is great to see and for me I am very interested because I have a similar engine it's bigger and it's call a No 7 mill engine it has more parts but it is basically the same as the Stuart engine so I can apply the very same approaches as you are doing so I have subscribed to your channel, your machines are similar to the ones I have, great to see you your always positive and happy thanks mate kind regards John from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 Stay safe and healthy
Hi
The Chinese diesel heaters are great for workshop heating and good value at around £100
Hi Ade, great project and spot on idea using the aluminium as a fixture, you will be pleased you did that many times over as you work through it all. You are much more patient than me, I would have had that casting straight on the mill, upside down, and machined the base flat. Looking forward to the next installment. PS. minus 2? Wimp! Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon. Yes minus 2 is not that cold in comparison to Scottish winters , I followed your tip and put an oil filled radiator in the shed . I leave it on half tilt and it has made a huge difference to the mayonnaise layer on the machines . I gust put a quick layer of wd40 on now and no more flash rusting . Eats the electricity a bit but needs must . Working with fractional imperial takes me back a bit and it seems I am rusty now. I have started collecting BA taps and dies and hardware since starting this . Number drills next . LOL Cheers Ade.
Ade what ever you do re heating don't be tempted to use bottle gas fire, when you go in the shed the next day your machines will be covered in water. I used a Calor gas fire once, shed was toasty warm pretty quick, never again though due to the water condensating on every piece of machinery.
Hi Gillian. I have recently put an oil filled radiator in the shed . it has made a big difference with moisture levels and a little heat . Cheers Ade.
good start, look forward to see the completed model
You are now the third to build this engine, Joe P......sky & Blondihacks. What spoils the finish are the slotted head screws instead of BA hex heads. I built a Vertical 10 in the early 1960’s from Stuart castings. Looks much better with hex head bolts. Enjoy 👍😁🇬🇧🇦🇺🦘 Ex Leeds, & RAF, living in Tasmania- since 1968- also virus free. Stay safe and get your van shot.
I agree about the screws , this model differs from Joe and Quin's. All BA hex bolts thankfully . Cheers Ade.
Hi Shevill. Ex Oxford here (just the place, not the university) - also in Tasmania, 10 mins from Hobart. Small world!
@@CraigsWorkshop Which side of the river? Me Cambridge, Southern Cross Observatory- have two observatories on 5-acres a stone’s throw from the Mt Canopus Observatory, relocated to the midlands a few years ago. Used to a lot of astronomical work with them, also NASA JPL and other major observatories in the northern hemisphere. Still working on developing climate change projects as well for UTAS. Not enough hours in the day for all my interests/ projects etc. Google Shevill Mathers Southern Cross Observatory , if interested. I used to be in Pathology/Forensic also scientific photography.
I remember when hones were quite expensive along with many other tools, now very cheap and readily available.
Had to wait for the tool-man to pop in before the internet and China's rise for such items.
Hi Rafo . Yes it is so easy to get stuff now , the danger is needing an ever growing workshop to store it all . Cheers Ade.
Thanks
Thanks for the video Ade. Seems to be the thing on YT at the moment, building model steam engines. As a follower of Keith Appleton, the more the better I say. I agree on removing the badly cast base nuts and replacing them with real ones. It will look a lot better. Looking forward to the rest of it. keep safe and stay well.
Hi Colin , ordering some 7BA bolts as we speak. Cheers Ade
Thanks for sharing!!!
Ade, Should be a fun project, looks like a nice kit. Noticed your Hollister sweatshirt, that's about 20 miles south of me....Enjoyed
The laugh is that it is a fake one bought from a tourist shop on a cold day in Lanzarotte. Cheers Ade.
This is going to be a great series Ade. Looking forward to the next video.
Great work as usual Ade. Although I post a few video's myself , I always like watching yours. If you get time have a look at my take on a ball turning device. Regards. Steve.
Hi Ade. Going to be an interesting build. Looking forward to the next episode. Regards kevin
Nice idea to use the base as a fixture plate.
Great start and video thanks Ade
Nice to see a different style to BlondieHacks
I hope you enjoy the build Ade, I bought something similar two years ago when I retired but I didn't get on very well with the 8BA and smaller fixings, my fingers and eyes were not up to it, I got so far and gave up and shelved it.
Send me an email and we may work something out to help. Cheers Ade.
Dems not just ands, thems mans hands! Just wiggle it ‘just a little bit, wiggle it just a little bit! Where have I heard that before? And a flat bottom casting not to be confused with a soggy bottom, remember guys you don’t want a soggy bottom! Very enjoyable thanks
Great job always like watching your videos
Glad you like them! I am only a small weekend hobby channel but I am working on it , Cheers Ade
Greatests walesman ever !!!!
Wood burner is the answer for heat
Good one Ade
Good start to you S50 Ade; re heating, have you looked at a couple of small 3 / 5 fin oil rads thermostaically controlled, one at either end of workshop?. I have one at either end of my converted, insulated single garage, 17ft long, put them on for about an hour before I go in, nice & cosy 16*C.
Yes I have, I have got one up and running recently and i leave it on half heat permanently . it has made a big difference to the moisture levels . Cheers Ade.
I absolutely love these build videos. I'm hoping one day i can afford a casting kit to make my own. I like your idea of setting up a surface to reference from seems like a very good idea to me.
Cheers from Canada
p.s. stay warm...LOL
Everyone is making models except me. I just had to give up ny work as I was getting cold in the garage - despite radiator on and door closed.
Just for future reference, it will always be prudent to actually mic the screw diameter. Most cap heads are thread rolled and OFTEN come out Under Size. Sometimes if the whole length is not threaded, you even find the plain section is EVEN smaller. As you really needed almost a location fit on the bolts to act like a dowel to stop movement over the machining operation, it would be ideal to measure the bolt diameter first then pick the best hole size. In case you do not realise the NUMBER Drill Sizes are often very close in size the the Metric ones. You can sometimes find a number drill that is say 0.05 mm smaller than a standard metric one. i.e you may only have a 2.9 or 3 mm drill and a number one comes in at 2.95 mm ( illustration numbers only ) may not be actual size. In that case of course you would have needed to remove the casting to tap the holes as the tap would be 3 mm but your bolt clearance hole 2.9 or whatever. Hope this helps. Regards from Australia temperature in the high 30's C, so definitely do not need a heater running. LOL
Simulated bolts are meant to be mill flat drilled and tapped to put the components together. In other words they serve no purpose but show the location of the screws that hold the parts together. I don’t know I’m just guessing
Hi, Ade. If the project were larger would you be more prone to try to clock the casting in per the centerline of the action? This was always a problem when my work used to had to machine multiple flanges on cast tanks and such, trying to keep bolt centers and thicknesses at both ends. At least your shop isn't here in Pennsylvania where the one or two below is in Fahrenheit!
Final model needs to be mounted on a piece of Pembrokeshire slate!
Now that is a good idea, Cheers Ade
@@ade63dug I figure that these pumps may well have been used in slate quarries throughout Wales, back in the day. In that same vein, hopefully they weren't used in treacle mines because that would leave a sticky mess on your mantle.
I can't wait to see this build! I am wondering if the 3 mounting screws will be strong enough to hold it during machining?
All the heavy machining needed is complete with no issues at all . thankfully. Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade, I really enjoy your videos, and I now what to get back to good honest engineering which I enjoyed many years ago, now retired ..I have a set of S50 castings bought for me so, Could I have your thoughts about your WM180 compared to the Warco Super Mini lathe or the WM240/250? does the 300mm DBC really limit you for model engineering on this scale? Thanks in advance.
Hi Neville. My view is that you can do small parts on a big lathe but big parts on a small lathe is tricky . I have used mini lathes and the 180 is far more rigid , I have no experience with the 240/250 but I would probably have gone that way if I had the room at the time . My 180 has served me well and the mods I have done have made it even better for my needs . Thanks for your support, Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade gotta love a steam engine:) TFS, G :)
I keep meaning to wander over to Bridport and have a nose around the factory but until I gets me a decent lathe I will just remain a spectator. I have considered a PM Research machined kit as apparently all the precision stuff is done and all needed doing is fettling and assembling by what been told.
its cold because you are drinking a cold beer
👍👍😎👍👍
Oh no not another steam engine build 😁
ADE, you think it's a good idea to build a steam engine on this channel, Isn't there enough hot air already here, And I help supply it.
Where did you purchase the kit?
Hi Charles . I got it direct from the Stuart models website. Cheers Ade.
AAA+++