Cheers Ade, really should get mine finished but as usual something always pops up, someone wants this n someone wants that and then there are the other hobbies!!! TFS, GB :)
A lot of care went into your planning for this part - those steam ports are a tribute to the foundryman and a trial for the machinist! Good work well presented, as usual.
Gday Ades, as always I found the video very interesting, showing and explaining the setups is bloody awesome, there’s always something to take away from your videos, the castings look to be good quality and no hard spots, throughly enjoyed watching mate, cheers Matty
Coming along nicely Ade. Interesting to see your setups for machining that part. I always get a bit nervous watching someone using a very small milling cutter, including myself! Cheers, Alan.
I remember my first time card, we were allowed to book a 100 mm/4" strip out of the stores, this was mid 1970's. When filing Brass, Bronze or Aluminium, were used to borrow some welders chalk ( french chalk) to dress the file, worked great on stopping the softer materials clogging up the files, though a new file was always best for non-ferrous work. Great vlog Ade, set up brilliant as usual. Thanks for sharing.
I have a stock of French chalk that I often use when filing soft stuff . I think that I have been aroused to share this stuff with the masses and I may do a video on filing and the old school tips . we are custodians of the wisdom of the past experts and have a duty to share for future enthusiasts . It is a shame that many of these skills are being lost to the modern world of cnc etc. I will put it on my ever growing list of future video's . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug Great idea, I used to spend most my Machine Tool fitting days standing by a bench, with files, round scrapers, various thread taps and light oil tapping threads to depth. One habit I cannot loose is rotating the file in between use, 90 degree's and tapping on the wooden bench to clear the teeth. If a machinist could get away with not deburring the part he would, and pass on the extra work to the fitting department. Plus no fabrications were media blasted, or weld spatter removed! Oh what fun. Best regards John.
learning so much from your videos Ade, might make a start on mine this weekend if I can spare up a bit of me time. Thank you for sharing your work Ade. regards Gareth
Be sure to poke down the ports with a bent paperclip or another piece of stiff wire, just to make sure there is no core sand in there! :~D Edit: Lovely filing technique BTW... you can't beat a bit of hand filing.
That is a good idea . I am learning this Steam engine mallarky as I go . I may throw the cylinder in the Ultrasonic before assembly to shake the muck out of any pores as well . Thanks for the tip . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug It is worse with the fully cored cylinders rather than that one, which doesn't look like it has the internal cylinder and exhaust channels cast in (so I suspect we are in for an interesting setup to get the drilling to line up!) but it never hurts to get rid of anything that may be lurking, if you haven't had to mill the ports yourself. All the best. Edit: If only life hadn't intervened to delay me watching the end of this before commenting... :~D
Loving the videos Ade, I think you need to release your own range of high quality models for home builders. Stuart models should be ashamed with their poor efforts, what chance does a learner have with castings like those!
Ade is going to turn a sows ear into a silk purse! Ha! That’s better than the famed “lipstick on a pig” method! I just finished a PM Research #3 engine today (U.S.) and was pleasantly surprised at how good the iron and bronze castings were. My first ever engine, at 61 no less! Great Vid Ade!
When you set the cylinder up on the lathe did you use a pin in the tailstock that fit the rough bore to help get it close to where you wanted? I think you mentioned using a pin to align the bore on the mill. Did you check the valve casting to see how it fit the ports before you milled them to insure it would cover them as it moved back and forth? I'll probably watch the series multiple times before I order the casting set!
Hi Kevin . Not bad on the whole but the flywheel had a few troublesome hard spots . The drawings are pretty poor and need some creative interpretation . Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade, nice work as usual. If the reamer shank is 0.001" undersize, and with the reamer itself sitting on the other vice jaw, might that not skew the bore relative to the port face? A gauge pin or length of silver steel might have been a better bet.
Great video Ade, how do you intend to turn the still rough end of the casting to match the first machined end.... Mill or arbour in the lathe..... Look forward to part 2 👍
Nice job Ade. 1st file card (well nearly) that I have seen being used on YT, and great technique with the file mate, nice to see one being used correctly. How long before steam up lol! Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon , yes the file card . I don't think I have seen anyone using one . always seems to be a wire brush . Upon reading your message I am about to look for a replacement. I think I have had the best out of the poor thing . Cheers Ade.
Hi Barry . Yes the lathe has a conventional lead screw . there is no changeable gearbox for feed rates without changing the gear train at the head end . I slip the banjo out of engagement and use a vari speed motor to drive the lead screw from the tail stock end . this gives me infinitely variable feed rate with the turn of a knob. I am going to upgrade it to a stepper motor shortly . Cheers Ade.
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheers Ade, really should get mine finished but as usual something always pops up, someone wants this n someone wants that and then there are the other hobbies!!! TFS, GB :)
Ah, both X and Y axes at the same time: the adult Etch-A-Sketch!
A lot of care went into your planning for this part - those steam ports are a tribute to the foundryman and a trial for the machinist!
Good work well presented, as usual.
Gday Ades, as always I found the video very interesting, showing and explaining the setups is bloody awesome, there’s always something to take away from your videos, the castings look to be good quality and no hard spots, throughly enjoyed watching mate, cheers Matty
I found removing flashing on a belt sander works well.
Coming along nicely Ade. Interesting to see your setups for machining that part. I always get a bit nervous watching someone using a very small milling cutter, including myself! Cheers, Alan.
I remember my first time card, we were allowed to book a 100 mm/4" strip out of the stores, this was mid 1970's.
When filing Brass, Bronze or Aluminium, were used to borrow some welders chalk ( french chalk) to dress the file, worked great on stopping the softer materials clogging up the files, though a new file was always best for non-ferrous work.
Great vlog Ade, set up brilliant as usual.
Thanks for sharing.
I have a stock of French chalk that I often use when filing soft stuff . I think that I have been aroused to share this stuff with the masses and I may do a video on filing and the old school tips . we are custodians of the wisdom of the past experts and have a duty to share for future enthusiasts . It is a shame that many of these skills are being lost to the modern world of cnc etc. I will put it on my ever growing list of future video's . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug Great idea, I used to spend most my Machine Tool fitting days standing by a bench, with files, round scrapers, various thread taps and light oil tapping threads to depth. One habit I cannot loose is rotating the file in between use, 90 degree's and tapping on the wooden bench to clear the teeth. If a machinist could get away with not deburring the part he would, and pass on the extra work to the fitting department. Plus no fabrications were media blasted, or weld spatter removed! Oh what fun.
Best regards John.
Good work, I do enjoy how you explain very clearly each individual step...
Your videos are always pleasant, and welcome.
There are some that explain, what i think can be too much detail for some to absorb. You have it just right. Great stuff.
Hi Stevie . I do find that I have to edit a lot of my waffling out so as not to make it too technical sometimes . Thanks for your support. Cheers Ade.
Nice job
Thanks!
Thank you as always great video. You never disappoint, again thank you for your time and knowledge cheers 🍺
Nice video Ade it is always a pleasure to watch your videos thankyou 😎
Thanks 👍
learning so much from your videos Ade, might make a start on mine this weekend if I can spare up a bit of me time. Thank you for sharing your work Ade. regards Gareth
Be sure to poke down the ports with a bent paperclip or another piece of stiff wire, just to make sure there is no core sand in there! :~D Edit: Lovely filing technique BTW... you can't beat a bit of hand filing.
That is a good idea . I am learning this Steam engine mallarky as I go . I may throw the cylinder in the Ultrasonic before assembly to shake the muck out of any pores as well . Thanks for the tip . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug It is worse with the fully cored cylinders rather than that one, which doesn't look like it has the internal cylinder and exhaust channels cast in (so I suspect we are in for an interesting setup to get the drilling to line up!) but it never hurts to get rid of anything that may be lurking, if you haven't had to mill the ports yourself. All the best. Edit: If only life hadn't intervened to delay me watching the end of this before commenting... :~D
Enjoyable as always Ade, thanks for the vid, and cheers!
Loving the videos Ade, I think you need to release your own range of high quality models for home builders. Stuart models should be ashamed with their poor efforts, what chance does a learner have with castings like those!
Ade is going to turn a sows ear into a silk purse! Ha! That’s better than the famed “lipstick on a pig” method! I just finished a PM Research #3 engine today (U.S.) and was pleasantly surprised at how good the iron and bronze castings were. My first ever engine, at 61 no less! Great Vid Ade!
You need a nice ER16 collet chuck Ade in that mill... you can see lots easier. Crackin video as usual though 👍🏻
I was thinking that when I was editing . ER16 set on my never ending list . Cheers Ade.
doing good
As always, very interesting!
Thanks for your support Graeme . Cheers Ade.
When you set the cylinder up on the lathe did you use a pin in the tailstock that fit the rough bore to help get it close to where you wanted? I think you mentioned using a pin to align the bore on the mill. Did you check the valve casting to see how it fit the ports before you milled them to insure it would cover them as it moved back and forth? I'll probably watch the series multiple times before I order the casting set!
Hi Ade, interesting build and well explained. What do you think of the casting quality?. Regards Kevin
Hi Kevin . Not bad on the whole but the flywheel had a few troublesome hard spots . The drawings are pretty poor and need some creative interpretation . Cheers Ade.
Look at 33:15 on this video, there is a hammer and sickle engraved on your Y drive wheel.
Hi Ade, nice work as usual. If the reamer shank is 0.001" undersize, and with the reamer itself sitting on the other vice jaw, might that not skew the bore relative to the port face? A gauge pin or length of silver steel might have been a better bet.
totally agree but it was fine in this case and we use what we have sometimes
Great video Ade, how do you intend to turn the still rough end of the casting to match the first machined end.... Mill or arbour in the lathe..... Look forward to part 2 👍
I will be turning a mandrel to fit the bore . Cheers Ade.
Nice job Ade. 1st file card (well nearly) that I have seen being used on YT, and great technique with the file mate, nice to see one being used correctly. How long before steam up lol! Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon , yes the file card . I don't think I have seen anyone using one . always seems to be a wire brush . Upon reading your message I am about to look for a replacement. I think I have had the best out of the poor thing . Cheers Ade.
Do the small remains of sand blunt the tools when machining that cylinder?
Hi Ade, Have you looked at the hoglet v twin engine as a potential future project?
Do you not have a lead screw that you can take power feed off of? How do you cut threads?
Hi Barry . Yes the lathe has a conventional lead screw . there is no changeable gearbox for feed rates without changing the gear train at the head end . I slip the banjo out of engagement and use a vari speed motor to drive the lead screw from the tail stock end . this gives me infinitely variable feed rate with the turn of a knob. I am going to upgrade it to a stepper motor shortly . Cheers Ade.
Hey Ade, are you being sponsored by that dumpster?
Hello 👋 🍺🍺👍