Regarding some comments I am seeing (my $.02): If there is bad feeling going on here, I am not picking up on it. I have lately been enjoying watching Quinn go through this journey and then see Joe’s more experienced methods for solving the same operations. There are many ways to skin a cat (sorry to Quinn, as I cannot think of another analogy) and the more I see, the better. I have been watching both contributors for years and learned a lot from them. A large part of the joy of watching TH-cam machinists is trying to figure out how I would do something and then see a different (usually better) solution. As a total novice, I feel smart if my guess happens to match. Funny timing though, as just this morning I decided to edit my Patreon subscriptions to support them both. I have seen this engine built by at least 6 different contributors over the years and enjoy all their videos. As far as Quinn presenting in “Tutorial” mode, for a hobbyist like myself I do consider her a “tutor” as I am sure many do. That being said, it is also nice to see how feature machining operations are solved by a professional machinist. Watch who you like to watch and stop complaining! Don’t need the drama - I could just watch the news for that!
I've been enjoying watching both channels working on this project, and it's fascinating to see the different approaches. There are so many ways to get things done, and Joe is a master. I have to say, if he were to point out better ways to do things, I'd be honored.
I can't tell you how pumped I am to see you machining this kit! I've had this kit for a few weeks now, but being a novice I've been a bit nervous to get started. Now I have a *trusted* source of info. Thank you thank you!!
Joe, you explain things beautifully. This is the finest model machining video I've seen. You never insult your viewer by assuming any prior knowledge but explain things fully and simply. I've learnt more from you than from anyone else; keep them coming.
Finally a model steam engine video from a pro. As a hobbyist myself I don't understand why people want to watch other hobbyists as a tutorial. I've never really watched BH but after this I gave her a try and it feels like she's doing it by eye almost. I hope this one gets finished, I got really into Stefans series only to find out like 4 videos in he never finished it.
Hi guys. To clarify certain recent statements of other builders regarding this exact casting. There are NO features on this cylinder that have to be transferred from any other components. In the presence of actual drawings that contain dimensions, the sequence of this build is not important at all. Familiarize yourself with all the components and design intent before you do anything. Also, in an attempt to filter out unpleasant comments and critiques of other builders, comments with other channel names will be held for review. Feel free to use first names or initials, but please keep it civil. Enjoy !!
I'm watching more than one channel do the same project. It's nice to watch this being done. Forget the comments. Just watch, and look at different people's methods. Maybe you'll have an "Aha" moment, and you'll have all of them to thank.
So great you're doing this! I'm learning a ton of information that can be applied to all kinds of different fixtures and machining. Thank you! And to me, there is no competition. Just an incredible teacher and someone learning by trial and error.
I watch TH-cam machining videos to learn from people who have experience and expertise. This series is a masterclass, Joe. Thanks for taking the time to produce it. It is rich with information and a pleasure to watch.
Having machined quite a few cylinders, I have a few constructive comments to add. I always try to arrange to bore the cylinder as soon as possible. If you encounter a blow hole in the casting, the part could be scrap. This is more an issue with cast iron. Also, it much easier to have a separate steam chest. You then have better access for machining the ports. It will also allow you to fine finish the port face on a glass rubbing plate. Finally, I prefer making the cylinder covers first and subsequently spotting the tapped holes from these. I really enjoy your videos and hope you don't think me too critical.
Sort of what I was thinking about doing the cylinder early. If the bore gets screwed up, the part is scrap. Or it needs a sleeve, and a lot more work. With the bore successfully made, many dimensions can be referenced to it. But, it you're new to model engine machining, maybe doing all the other stuff first can give you practice before working up to the bore. Not that I'm suggesting Joe needs the practice, but I would. Great video, really enjoy, thanks.
I have watched many of these small steam engines machined on you tube but you are the first actual machinist that I am aware of. it shows in your approach and confidence in the operations . Very nice job
As a computer programmer I pay for different approaches to the same end from as many sources as possible. The fact that this is being done by several revered Tubers is essential and allows me to judge the approaches and even construct my own. I'm overjoyed for multiple perspectives. THANK YOU !
As usual joe, brilliant and educational, for a newbie hobby machinist. i learn so much from your videos. I am your "70 year old apprentice" from the UK
Joe, Well done. There are many ways to "Skin a Cat " but I think that most model makers in the UK, would not have finished the cylinder ends on a milling machine. After boring the cylinder they would mount the cylinder on an arbor in the lathe and face the ends true to the bore. In that way you are sure that the ends are square and true to the cylinder bore. You sure took a big risk in plunging the 960 cutter straight into the casting. Luckily you have a nice soft casting, but if you had one that had been Chilled, it could have totally buggered your cutter and even had the casting move in the vice ( correct spelling for UK ) and spoilt all you other good work.
Firstly, I'd like to say that I am subscribed to this and BlondiHacks channel. To address one of the commenters comments that Joe has many thousands of dollars of equipment, therefore his audience is aimed at professional machinists is misguided. I remember one of Joe's videos where he described a method for correcting the run-out in a three-jaw chuck, which was aimed squarely at the hobbyist, and helped me greatly. I do find it saddening that Quinn has blocked Joe from commenting on her video., Everybody has something to learn from their peers, despite their confidence in their own skills. I have no doubt that some of this can be achieved with hand tools. If that is the way you need to work, then well done, I admire your patience and skill. The internet is not the place to be trained in producing aerospace components. Just be nice to each-other. If you find something useful - great. Just don't feel that you have to belittle somebodies methods because you do not have the tools necessary to duplictete their methods ... rant over.
Awesome work... distilling down the blue print to work in a logical progression of operations, and not spending all of your time re-establishing zero. Also, establishing logical start points and correcting for the casting (1.136" indicated to 1.125" Rationalized, for example ) is good practice with castings/ forgings in the absence of a call out.
Thanks Joe, I am in the middle of making a Stuart 10H from castings, you have given me a few ideas where to start on the cylinder. Thank you for the excelent videos. Not only do you show how to do it but you also explain the thinking behind which is very helpful to a beginner.
There is nothing wrong with people or mfg's sending joe or any you tubets free things to work on, hit helps everyone, the mfg, me and my kids, other people too. As a rookie i have learned a lot from joe and other you tubers, i have a retired relative was a machinist for 40 years and he introduced me to this site, he said joe was top notch and i think he should know,
JOE, PLEASE go into your upload settings and TURN OFF Mid Roll adverts. You Tube now automatically sets any new video uploads to Default ON. Really annoying to keep getting interruptions every 5 minutes or less. Great little gift for you, looking forward to you trying to machine the crankshaft. If you have never done one before, it could turn out to be a "Brown Trousers" job. LOL
Bosbulls It’s $ 12 a MONTH = $ 144 a Year. Maybe all right if you are working but I am retired. Also another factor is that I live in Australia and the pricing is US Dollar so in my money is well over A$ 200, not viable. As I stated above, Joe can turn the mid roll adverts off if he wants too. Other people uploading videos have done so, it is just a case as to whether Joe wants to make the effort or not. If he does not then he will be another contributor whom I shall have to reluctantly unsubscribe to.
You are one of the few TH-cam presenters that knows enough not to use a surface plate as a secondary work bench. It’s amazing how some will spend money to have their plates recertified, so they must know how little it takes to cause wear, and then a month or two later, be throwing anything you can think of on it! I like that little cubby hole you have for it. It’s an excellent way to make sure nothing ends up on it that doesn’t belong on it.
@Uncle Phil Any one that thinks I didn't sacrifice and work my ass off for everything I show and use in my videos should go outside and take a long slow deep breath. My facility and experience is from a lifetime of compromise, good decisions, hard work and drive. I will never look down on anyone with less experience or opportunity. If i didn't care to assist or share what I have, I wouldn't take the time to make videos like this.
@@HairyNumbNuts I don't believe that is Joe's intent and I don't get the impression that's how he thinks. I think his channel does probably lean more towards people you are in the trade than hobbyists but a lot of techniques he shows can be done in 1/2 of a one car garage. This is what Joe does for a living so of course he is going to have multiple benches and some high end machinery but my guess is he didn't start out that way. My career path started out as an auto mechanic which I still do on the side and later as an aircraft mechanic and professional pilot so I'm not a machinist but I due do some machining, usually it's to build a tool or a part that I need, boring an engine block or rebuilding a cylinder head etc. I've picked up some of Joe's techniques and some things he does I would probably do differently. I also know the work involved and the sacrifices one has to make to buy equipment and/or improves one's skills and if you have a family they will likely have to make sacrifices as well. Also the majority of responses I've seen from Joe's viewers have been positive towards the other TH-camr, many have stated they have or do watch her channel. I've watched a few of her videos as well and I think she does pretty well with the equipment she has to work with and her experience level.
Joe. I am a fledgling to the model steam engine hobby. Not being a machinist, I am relagated to purchasing "machined kits" The difference in cost is minimal in relation to the time it would take to get fully functional to machine my own kits. Your tutorial videos show us, the laymen, how precise a hobby this is. You do an outstanding job of not only videoing the process but you explain in no nonsene descriptives of the processes and how you arrive at the finished product. Excdellent job, Joe. I am you newest fan.
This is your bread and butter I feel like. I have nowhere near your experience and I appriecate the tips and trick I pick up from you on the lathe and mill. Thanks
I dont have a DRO, so i chucked a piece of steel in the lathe and turned a hat shaped plug for the cylinder and used an 1/8" center drill to mark center of the plug. I then fixed the cylinder one the mill table and used the plug to find center of the cylinder. Not moving the table, i just lifted the quill and removed the 2mt center and afixed my boring head. I then bored the cylinder. I'm not a machinist, but it worked and yes im saving for a DRO. Thank you Joe for this series..
Nicely done. I hope anyone that is making a steam engine from a casting watches this. I like that Indical. Thanks for another awesome video. I hope you're planning to show most of the steam engine build over time.
Holding the cast iron model steam engine cylinder, in his hand. Victoriously and saying, "It was inevitable". I knew this would happen one day. Very informative.
Joe you have demonstrated many times over your knowledge of metalworking! I'm just totally lost when you are at the board. Those of us who have small or home hobby shops: & a limited budget/tool, fully understand that we cannot compete with the Professionals!!! In the context of purchasing tool's that not going to pay for themself. I haven't built a steam engine yet,... been thinking about do one for display. I Can Only Imagine all the free perks & promotional gear that you all guys get; Wish you well on your little engine.
Hi Joe, Having a number of TH-camrs making the same model really illustrates there are many ways to achieve the same goal dependent on your skills and equipment. One thing is for sure, that each of you will have a model steam engine at the end of your build. Take care Paul,,
I just knew that you would end up doing, a steam engine. Good show Joe! Your a natural at explaining, and showing how to do setups, and Machining. Stay safe.
Releaving the outside of the valve surface (making it lower) is for balancing the valve. Good for you for doing so. Many people over look the operation. As if the valve were to get debris it will have a trough for the debris to sit.
Did you see his skill plate "thing" he made to test manual skills? I think there's a video of his CNC milling it. Either way I think he's had plenty of practice doing arcs on a manual
Thank you for sharing this video! It inspired me to pull out a steam engine casting kit that managed to hide in one of my drawers for nearly, I hate to admit it, 45 years. When I bought it, all I had was my Atlas 12/36 lathe with a milling attachment and I didn't trust my set up at that time. Since then I acquired a Jet model 8/36 mill to which I added a 4-axis DRO.This should make the machining process a whole lot more manageable and more fun. Thanks again for sharing your video and keep up your great work!
Joe made a comment about hitting the numbers, standards are there for a reason. I’ve been playing around with my mill and DRO. As a hobby guy, this is new to me. What a revelation. I can find center with the tools needed, coaxial indicator is my go to tool. Carefully move to the coordinates and I can duplicate the same results every time. I’m referring to drilling the head before the cylinder, then using transfer punches to mark the cylinder. I can drill both parts separately using the DRO and it lines up. That is cool. What a revelation
Thanks joe!!! This is why i bought my machine in the first place but very quickly my skill level was lacking. Thanks for all the tips & thricks through the years and now a step by step how to! Grea great video!!
NIce video! Love my indical. I set mine to a ring if I have one, but more likely to a micrometer locked on the dimension or a stack of gage blocks with tool bits on the end. It is one of those tools where you have fish around for the smallest dimension.
Both of these videos are an excellent example of difficult machining. While watching I was imagi ing how to do this without a milling machine but with a decent drill press and an x/y vice. By the the builder got through filing the surfaces flat they would be really good with a file.
I watched the video fascinated by the orderly, logical sequence of operations that maximize the value of each setup. Thanks for sharing your insight and experience.
Hi Joe, just want to say thank you for the time and effort you put into creating your content. I also sub to BH's, and saw the similar content recently. I don't see the conflict with each series, and will be watching both with interest to note the process and results given the difference in experience and equipment...I don't know what's wrong with demonstrating that. Some things that I do on a professional level, and am always interested to see how someone else achieves a similar result, with a different and perhaps less technical approach. I enjoy your content, as I enjoy Blondies, and I say to both of you, Thanks! Stay Safe mate👍
Our presentations are coming from polar opposite ends of the spectrum. I think it is a great source for many of you to decide what works for you. Thanks for the comment.
If you are truly into the subject half an hour is basically nothing, i don't see a problem watching much more about it. As long as no one claims to be the definitive source, which would be questionable in century-old-technology hobby projects.
Excellent video! I just bought this kit and I will be using your video series. I am a 48 year machinist, so I can do the work. You will make it great! Thanks.
A good tip to use on machining the main engine frame is to mount that frame to a square steel plate and use that to hold the engine frame to do all the machines that way everything is square and perpendicular
If this looks a bit scary to anyone thinking of building one I can assure you that Joe is very good at machining and it will be perfect. But it doesn’t need to be. Those slots where steam comes in and out need to be spot on for distance. However, you can make mistakes and fix them. Like making an oversize piston because the bore went wrong. This is a really old design from an age with some pretty basic 19th century workshop machines. On top of that it is designed to be reworked as it wears. So jump in there and make a steam engine :D
Great way to pass an evening away. Thanks Joe ! I found a new idea for soft vice jaws, Rawhide. Crazy glue was made to glue skin. Cut some strips and glue em up. I make some on my site.
Aloha Joe, I have made this kit, it is interesting to see how you do it, At the time I did it I had a very small mill so much of my work was done on the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. Thought processes similar, but dictations by tools on hand change things. Now that I have a nice mill it might be fun to do it again, but I am running out of room for the finished projects. Mahalo and keep them coming.
I’ve heard Quinn mentioned you numerous times but this is the first time I am watching one of your videos. Beautiful work and good pacing. I suddenly have the urge to make a steam engine as well
Good job. My uncle used to receive castings gratus, from major model engine builder-mafg'rs just to see how he would build them. I used to document, make drawings, of his finished product. I remember one mtg' r was Rossi.
Fantastic video Joe! Absolutely love sitting down with a coffee and watching your latest instalment on a Sunday morning! Thankyou...! From sunny Queensland, Australia
This is like listening to someone speaking a foreign language. I have no concept or aptitude for any of this. This isn’t a knock at all. It’s impressive. Thank goodness there are people like all of you that can comprehend and work with this kind of stuff. I remember taking a “Metals” class in high school and running a lathe to make a screwdriver. Recall lots of hot, sharp and oily shards of metal. lol Nice collection of videos you have. I got here because I love trains and it said “steam engine”. 😁
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you come back for the rest of the build. Also search Chuck Tipton. He built a steam traction engine that will amaze you.
Its great to watch a true professional build one of these. You really make it look so simple, a mark of vast experience. Thank you so much for taking the time to show us how its done!
Ir didn't show in the video but I take it there is a set screw to hold the tap handle to the 5-40 tap. Never thought of holding the tap mid-shank instead of at the square end. I am always learning from the sensei.
Great video as always, full of tips and tricks, Thank you. But..... the number of advert breaks is getting ridiculous now, there were 8 breaks in that vid for me, with most being 2 ads per break!! This is getting worse that tv!!
Pay $10/month for youtube premium and you don't get any adverts and Joe and any others you watch get more $ than if you watch the adverts. Add blockers will eventually make youtube a subscription only service like netflix. You tube costs a lot of $$ to sustain the servers, storage and bandwidth required for us to watch videos. They have to get paid or no more youtube.
Joe Pieczynski I got 13 mid roll ads. An ad every couple minutes is ridiculously distracting on a video where the viewer is trying to pay attention to sequencing, and it ruins your content. Please consider turning them off.
Awesome instruction! I watch lots of YT, but on this channel I pay total attention. I have a lot of experience working metal, but learn a lot here every time. That Indi-Cal is almost 3000 Bucks, and looks like something one could make at home. I have a two point Helios Inside mike that does most things that can do. Its 0-50mm in one tool.
You’ve recommended the indical , so I will return the gesture by mentioning “Clupet”cast iron piston rings....recommended by many steam engine fans, and made in the U.K. by some old guy in a shed. They overlap on themselves like a key ring ring does, and remove the problem of ring gaps closing up as engine parts heat up at different speeds!!
I sat fascinated all the way through this episode, thank you. I have built a Stewart v10 at my modest home workshop. Turned out well and works. No where near skill level of you Joe. Great series and thanks for posting.
As more more than one you tubers are doing the same project I can’t help wondering if they were all the models we’re together would they all look identical .thanks Dwayne NZ.
Joe! I just freaking love how you freehand facing the cylinder faces. Mad skilz of The Master Craftsman you are. Can you revisit your Mill driving maze skill builder sometime? Best thing you could do to.imptove the game of all of Home Gaming wannabe DIYers. Show us how its SUPPOSED to done. High speed, low drag. WITHOUT CNC!
Nice work on the steam engine. What’s the name of the engine and do you know where it can be purchased? Following the build and will do one myself shortly.
G'day Joe and greetings from Tasmania Australia, I am very glade that I happened to stumble across this one Joe, I am about to build a No7 horizontal mill it's large and I have picked up some great advise and ideas. Thanks mate kind regards John
Tbf we've been machining cast iron on our machines for over 8 years now. Some blast air others flood coolant and the worst I've had to deal with was chiselling out the swarf chute after being left for 6 months while I was furloughed. Im not saying its not bad, just maybe not as bad as people say....
@@wildin13 Try selling machines that run cast iron. No one wants them. I sold 52 new machines to a Bosch plant 12 years ago and they were trashed in a few years from running cast iron dry. Depends on how you run them and what you are doing. If you don't own them, no worries but when you are on the hook financially it's a different story. Tell the used dealer that you ran cast iron and watch the deal change. LM guides are the best at running cast iron, box way machines get eaten up by the stuff. That's why Joe is using a vacuum.
Hi Joe I am building the same kit now . Wish my Clausing table mill had a DRO so I suffer till that happens . You look to be a well skilled machines and finding your videos very helpful. Best BB
Joe I noted your Co name and looked up up, Wow what a great looking shop , a total Quality Driven Shop. I look forward to reviewing all you first class videos. Thank You again for you effort to share your advanced machining skills and knowledge. BB
10.11 he says that slot he just milled is for,the air coming in ????. I am no professional but a hobbyist and steam engine related . My understanding of the center slot is steam out ie. exhaust . Steam pressure is required to hold the slide valve on the port face. Pressure coming in the center slot will lift the slide valve up
Joe Pieczynski at 18.04 you are cleaning up the end for,the gland for,the valve rod ? The round raised boss to the left of that in the video is the steam inlet which enters the steam chest . The slot you milled at 10.11 does not meet up with that . The slot meets up with the other boss on other side which will be the exhaust
@@scorpion2nz Easy does it boss. I'll produce the perfect model, but I'mm far from an expert on whats called what. if I'm wrong, I'll admit it, but have to go back over the notes. this video was composed from 2 1/2 hours of raw footage and ended up being 93 edited segments. If I contradicted myself, I apologize, but this production was very tough to layout.
This is the best ENGINE build i ve seen yet . Much better than the others because every operation is purpose driven instead of well i could or ya but driven .
I.m fairly sure that centre port is for exhaust steam and the fresh steam comes in over the valve and into the inlet ports when the valve is moved uncovering them?
You are correct in your supposition. That port is indeed the exhaust port. The steam inlet is in the other side of the steam chest. The feed steam is supposed to push on the valve body sealing the valve body to the valve port face. It would "work" the other way round but with a lot of wasted steam around the valve body and greatly reduced power/efficiency!
Clicked the wrong button.. Time 31:30. Joe P, the wizard, magic again. Time 38:55 What do You think about putting the tap in the drill chuck just after the tap drilling? More tool changes but precision looks like being good to me, quite new in this profession. Time 46:00 Brutal but very efficient. Time 47.15 Left turn, counter clockwise rotation. Why? Lack of CW tooling? Time 48:50 What a tool. Probably cost "some money". Time 49:25 A pice of cake? That was a marathon video well worth viewing when having lots of time. A lesson from a Master. "Well done" is my comment to many machinists. Here it would be aninsultment. Whow! Greate!
Thank you for your comments and compliment. I'll answer you in order 1. Thanks 2. a tap in a chuck is Ok under certain circumstances. I didn't want to risk breaking one here. 3. Yep 4. my best cast iron boring bar just happens to be LH 5. I like cake.
@@joepie221 Thanks a lot for Your time and Your reply Joe. Replying, "judging", other TH-camrs, my expression for admirable work is "A Joe Pie-class work". That's how I feel. 2. My mill has a variable speed controll starting from 0. Installing the tap in the Jacobs chuck, lower it down to the hole, apply a light down preassure, and turn the speed knob just off 0. That gives an RPM of 30 or lower. Let the chuck turn " a few turns", listen to the load, and cut off early. Then release the tap and the chuck, and hand tap. The tap by then has got a good angle down into the hole and it has not made me disappointed yet. I use a 6" - 8" inch handle and care to turn it well balanced. That has not failed me. What did You call the misalignment? Yeh! "Mild tornado!" (Checking Your video again) I'll call it "a cream whip". You really have Your feet on the ground as we say over here, Europe, Sweden. Having almost no experience, time is the resource to give some kind of precision. 4: One uses what one got. My mill boaring bar head would unscrew turning leftwards.... Covid19-effect is here, sitting alone, self-isolated, milling, turning and cutting but health is the best. Wish You stay safe and continue Your Youtubing.
Wow, lots going on here, I will have to re-watch some parts as you are travelling a bit beyond my comfort zone. I see a lot of areas of potential error for the uninitiated. Well done Joe, enjoyed it immensely, great filming work! Cheers!
2 1/2 hours of raw footage cut into almost 100 individual segments. This one was tough to compose. I'm glad you like it and hop you come back for part 2.
I bought my PM Research #1 kit a long time ago in the 2000's (date on prints says 12-1-00). I got it out so I can look at the prints as I watch the videos. It looks like they made some changes to the castings. My crankshaft does not have that extra piece of stock in the middle. Also my slide rails are not together on that elongated horseshoe but are separate.
@@joepie221 I have the Engine Lathe kit that has a 1" chuck. Good thing it is a 4 jaw chuck where the jaws move independently. Can you imagine making a 3 jaw chuck where all the jaws move together. I also have the Milling Machine, Wood Lathe and Drill Press along with a Boiler kit among other steam engines I bought. I have a D10 Stuart kit and the reversing gear kit for it.
Hi Joe, Thank you. It is an absolute pleasure watching you machine this steam engine and showing your techniques for setup. Looking forward to the next video. Is this the same steam engine that Quinn is currently machining? You and the family stay safe.
joe fantastic tutorial just all the numbing adverts you tube force you to watch seem to forget what youve just seen anyway all the very best from uk....
What a blessing to watch a master craftsman methodically plow through these features. Gold nuggets everywhere. Love the ‘vice-code’ guiding those hand wheels. So thoughtfully simple. Thanks Joe. 👍👍😎👍👍 Joe, May I ask how you determine the depth of the various center drill holes such that you get the perfect chamfer for the final drill and tap size? Maybe it is just experience, but clearly you are doing something deliberate 😊.
Regarding some comments I am seeing (my $.02):
If there is bad feeling going on here, I am not picking up on it. I have lately been enjoying watching Quinn go through this journey and then see Joe’s more experienced methods for solving the same operations. There are many ways to skin a cat (sorry to Quinn, as I cannot think of another analogy) and the more I see, the better. I have been watching both contributors for years and learned a lot from them. A large part of the joy of watching TH-cam machinists is trying to figure out how I would do something and then see a different (usually better) solution. As a total novice, I feel smart if my guess happens to match. Funny timing though, as just this morning I decided to edit my Patreon subscriptions to support them both. I have seen this engine built by at least 6 different contributors over the years and enjoy all their videos. As far as Quinn presenting in “Tutorial” mode, for a hobbyist like myself I do consider her a “tutor” as I am sure many do. That being said, it is also nice to see how feature machining operations are solved by a professional machinist. Watch who you like to watch and stop complaining! Don’t need the drama - I could just watch the news for that!
I've been enjoying watching both channels working on this project, and it's fascinating to see the different approaches. There are so many ways to get things done, and Joe is a master. I have to say, if he were to point out better ways to do things, I'd be honored.
I can't tell you how pumped I am to see you machining this kit! I've had this kit for a few weeks now, but being a novice I've been a bit nervous to get started. Now I have a *trusted* source of info. Thank you thank you!!
Thats very flattering. thank you. feel free to post questions if you have any.
Joe, you explain things beautifully. This is the finest model machining video I've seen. You never insult your viewer by assuming any prior knowledge but explain things fully and simply. I've learnt more from you than from anyone else; keep them coming.
Finally a model steam engine video from a pro. As a hobbyist myself I don't understand why people want to watch other hobbyists as a tutorial. I've never really watched BH but after this I gave her a try and it feels like she's doing it by eye almost. I hope this one gets finished, I got really into Stefans series only to find out like 4 videos in he never finished it.
Proper checking and planning before the first chip is made is essential. That has served me well for nearly 60 years. Well done Joe!
Hi guys. To clarify certain recent statements of other builders regarding this exact casting. There are NO features on this cylinder that have to be transferred from any other components. In the presence of actual drawings that contain dimensions, the sequence of this build is not important at all. Familiarize yourself with all the components and design intent before you do anything. Also, in an attempt to filter out unpleasant comments and critiques of other builders, comments with other channel names will be held for review. Feel free to use first names or initials, but please keep it civil. Enjoy !!
I'm watching more than one channel do the same project. It's nice to watch this being done. Forget the comments. Just watch, and look at different people's methods. Maybe you'll have an "Aha" moment, and you'll have all of them to thank.
Options are a good thing. You pick. Like a menu. We all have different tastes.
So great you're doing this! I'm learning a ton of information that can be applied to all kinds of different fixtures and machining. Thank you! And to me, there is no competition. Just an incredible teacher and someone learning by trial and error.
I have never lost sight of the fact I started somewhere too. One big difference is that I embraced input from the masters.
I watch TH-cam machining videos to learn from people who have experience and expertise. This series is a masterclass, Joe. Thanks for taking the time to produce it. It is rich with information and a pleasure to watch.
Very well said!
Thank you very much.
Having machined quite a few cylinders, I have a few constructive comments to add. I always try to arrange to bore the cylinder as soon as possible. If you encounter a blow hole in the casting, the part could be scrap. This is more an issue with cast iron. Also, it much easier to have a separate steam chest. You then have better access for machining the ports. It will also allow you to fine finish the port face on a glass rubbing plate. Finally, I prefer making the cylinder covers first and subsequently spotting the tapped holes from these. I really enjoy your videos and hope you don't think me too critical.
Also the crosshead end of the cylinder should be faced at the same time the bore is made.
Sort of what I was thinking about doing the cylinder early. If the bore gets screwed up, the part is scrap. Or it needs a sleeve, and a lot more work. With the bore successfully made, many dimensions can be referenced to it. But, it you're new to model engine machining, maybe doing all the other stuff first can give you practice before working up to the bore. Not that I'm suggesting Joe needs the practice, but I would.
Great video, really enjoy, thanks.
I have watched many of these small steam engines machined on you tube but you are the first actual machinist that I am aware of. it shows in your approach and confidence in the operations . Very nice job
Thanks 👍 Stay tuned. I'll finish all of the parts.
As a computer programmer I pay for different approaches to the same end from as many sources as possible. The fact that this is being done by several revered Tubers is essential and allows me to judge the approaches and even construct my own. I'm overjoyed for multiple perspectives. THANK YOU !
Take a little piece of everything and make your own soup.!! Thats why think tanks are so valuable.
As usual joe, brilliant and educational, for a newbie hobby machinist. i learn so much from your videos. I am your "70 year old apprentice" from the UK
Thank you very much!
Joe, Well done. There are many ways to "Skin a Cat " but I think that most model makers in the UK, would not have finished the cylinder ends on a milling machine. After boring the cylinder they would mount the cylinder on an arbor in the lathe and face the ends true to the bore. In that way you are sure that the ends are square and true to the cylinder bore. You sure took a big risk in plunging the 960 cutter straight into the casting. Luckily you have a nice soft casting, but if you had one that had been Chilled, it could have totally buggered your cutter and even had the casting move in the vice ( correct spelling for UK ) and spoilt all you other good work.
A shorter cutter would be a better choice. that cutter was dangerously long.
Firstly, I'd like to say that I am subscribed to this and BlondiHacks channel.
To address one of the commenters comments that Joe has many thousands of dollars of equipment, therefore his audience is aimed at professional machinists is misguided.
I remember one of Joe's videos where he described a method for correcting the run-out in a three-jaw chuck, which was aimed squarely at the hobbyist, and helped me greatly.
I do find it saddening that Quinn has blocked Joe from commenting on her video., Everybody has something to learn from their peers, despite their confidence in their own skills.
I have no doubt that some of this can be achieved with hand tools. If that is the way you need to work, then well done, I admire your patience and skill.
The internet is not the place to be trained in producing aerospace components.
Just be nice to each-other. If you find something useful - great. Just don't feel that you have to belittle somebodies methods because you do not have the tools necessary to duplictete their methods ... rant over.
Awesome work... distilling down the blue print to work in a logical progression of operations, and not spending all of your time re-establishing zero. Also, establishing logical start points and correcting for the casting (1.136" indicated to 1.125" Rationalized, for example ) is good practice with castings/ forgings in the absence of a call out.
They made some mistakes and assumptions.
Thanks Joe, I am in the middle of making a Stuart 10H from castings, you have given me a few ideas where to start on the cylinder. Thank you for the excelent videos. Not only do you show how to do it but you also explain the thinking behind which is very helpful to a beginner.
Glad to help
There is nothing wrong with people or mfg's sending joe or any you tubets free things to work on, hit helps everyone, the mfg, me and my kids, other people too. As a rookie i have learned a lot from joe and other you tubers, i have a retired relative was a machinist for 40 years and he introduced me to this site, he said joe was top notch and i think he should know,
Thanks for passing that on.
JOE, PLEASE go into your upload settings and TURN OFF Mid Roll adverts. You Tube now automatically sets any new video uploads to Default ON. Really annoying to keep getting interruptions every 5 minutes or less. Great little gift for you, looking forward to you trying to machine the crankshaft. If you have never done one before, it could turn out to be a "Brown Trousers" job. LOL
Get the premium subscription. It is not that expensive, and definitely worth it to not get any ads.
Bosbulls It’s $ 12 a MONTH = $ 144 a Year. Maybe all right if you are working but I am retired. Also another factor is that I live in Australia and the pricing is US Dollar so in my money is well over A$ 200, not viable. As I stated above, Joe can turn the mid roll adverts off if he wants too. Other people uploading videos have done so, it is just a case as to whether Joe wants to make the effort or not. If he does not then he will be another contributor whom I shall have to reluctantly unsubscribe to.
Good One...! A great lesson on drilling and tapping small holes, end milling small parts, and following a print....!
You are one of the few TH-cam presenters that knows enough not to use a surface plate as a secondary work bench. It’s amazing how some will spend money to have their plates recertified, so they must know how little it takes to cause wear, and then a month or two later, be throwing anything you can think of on it! I like that little cubby hole you have for it. It’s an excellent way to make sure nothing ends up on it that doesn’t belong on it.
Jealous much? Sheesh
@Uncle Phil Any one that thinks I didn't sacrifice and work my ass off for everything I show and use in my videos should go outside and take a long slow deep breath. My facility and experience is from a lifetime of compromise, good decisions, hard work and drive. I will never look down on anyone with less experience or opportunity. If i didn't care to assist or share what I have, I wouldn't take the time to make videos like this.
@@HairyNumbNuts I don't believe that is Joe's intent and I don't get the impression that's how he thinks. I think his channel does probably lean more towards people you are in the trade than hobbyists but a lot of techniques he shows can be done in 1/2 of a one car garage. This is what Joe does for a living so of course he is going to have multiple benches and some high end machinery but my guess is he didn't start out that way. My career path started out as an auto mechanic which I still do on the side and later as an aircraft mechanic and professional pilot so I'm not a machinist but I due do some machining, usually it's to build a tool or a part that I need, boring an engine block or rebuilding a cylinder head etc. I've picked up some of Joe's techniques and some things he does I would probably do differently. I also know the work involved and the sacrifices one has to make to buy equipment and/or improves one's skills and if you have a family they will likely have to make sacrifices as well. Also the majority of responses I've seen from Joe's viewers have been positive towards the other TH-camr, many have stated they have or do watch her channel. I've watched a few of her videos as well and I think she does pretty well with the equipment she has to work with and her experience level.
Joe. I am a fledgling to the model steam engine hobby. Not being a machinist, I am relagated to purchasing "machined kits" The difference in cost is minimal in relation to the time it would take to get fully functional to machine my own kits. Your tutorial videos show us, the laymen, how precise a hobby this is. You do an outstanding job of not only videoing the process but you explain in no nonsene descriptives of the processes and how you arrive at the finished product. Excdellent job, Joe. I am you newest fan.
Thanks Randy. I try very hard to also be interactive on my channel. If you ever have a question, fire away. I'll answer if I can. Stay well.
This is your bread and butter I feel like. I have nowhere near your experience and I appriecate the tips and trick I pick up from you on the lathe and mill. Thanks
I dont have a DRO, so i chucked a piece of steel in the lathe and turned a hat shaped plug for the cylinder and used an 1/8" center drill to mark center of the plug. I then fixed the cylinder one the mill table and used the plug to find center of the cylinder. Not moving the table, i just lifted the quill and removed the 2mt center and afixed my boring head. I then bored the cylinder. I'm not a machinist, but it worked and yes im saving for a DRO. Thank you Joe for this series..
Nicely done. I hope anyone that is making a steam engine from a casting watches this. I like that Indical. Thanks for another awesome video. I hope you're planning to show most of the steam engine build over time.
I hope so too. I'll pick the tough stuff to get ya over the hump.
That’s great Joe, Santa is bringing me a set of very similar castings to keep me occupied next year, looking forward to the rest of the series.
More in cue. Stand by.
Joe, that engine is gonna super nova with all that attention to detail!
I may have to put a rev limiter on it. We'll see.
Holding the cast iron model steam engine cylinder, in his hand. Victoriously and saying, "It was inevitable". I knew this would happen one day. Very informative.
Joe you have demonstrated many times over your knowledge of metalworking! I'm just totally lost when you are at the board.
Those of us who have small or home hobby shops: & a limited budget/tool, fully understand that we cannot compete with the Professionals!!!
In the context of purchasing tool's that not going to pay for themself.
I haven't built a steam engine yet,... been thinking about do one for display.
I Can Only Imagine all the free perks & promotional gear that you all guys get;
Wish you well on your little engine.
I do get gifts and appreciate every one. But a subscriber bought this for me and personally delivered it. Way above and beyond generous.
Hi Joe,
Having a number of TH-camrs making the same model really illustrates there are many ways to achieve the same goal dependent on your skills and equipment. One thing is for sure, that each of you will have a model steam engine at the end of your build.
Take care
Paul,,
Very true! I look forward to the payoff.
I just knew that you would end up doing, a steam engine.
Good show Joe!
Your a natural at explaining, and showing how to do setups, and Machining.
Stay safe.
Releaving the outside of the valve surface (making it lower) is for balancing the valve. Good for you for doing so. Many people over look the operation. As if the valve were to get debris it will have a trough for the debris to sit.
Just helped a friend do a Victoria steam engine. First time machining for him. He did great. I linked this to him. Good job 👍
Nice work! I'm more than a little impressed with milling a circle like that. You must be a god level etch-a-sketch artist! :)
Did you see his skill plate "thing" he made to test manual skills? I think there's a video of his CNC milling it.
Either way I think he's had plenty of practice doing arcs on a manual
Thanks guys. My hands do the work, I just stand back and watch.
HeyJoe, Thanks for the time you spend sharing your experience. Phil in Bedford VA
Thank you for sharing this video! It inspired me to pull out a steam engine casting kit that managed to hide in one of my drawers for nearly, I hate to admit it, 45 years. When I bought it, all I had was my Atlas 12/36 lathe with a milling attachment and I didn't trust my set up at that time. Since then I acquired a Jet model 8/36 mill to which I added a 4-axis DRO.This should make the machining process a whole lot more manageable and more fun.
Thanks again for sharing your video and keep up your great work!
Good luck with your build.
Great video! I certainly need to watch this one a few times to catch all the bits of wisdom you are throwing our way. Thanks!
Joe made a comment about hitting the numbers, standards are there for a reason.
I’ve been playing around with my mill and DRO. As a hobby guy, this is new to me. What a revelation.
I can find center with the tools needed, coaxial indicator is my go to tool. Carefully move to the coordinates and I can duplicate the same results every time.
I’m referring to drilling the head before the cylinder, then using transfer punches to mark the cylinder.
I can drill both parts separately using the DRO and it lines up.
That is cool.
What a revelation
As it should be.
Thanks joe!!! This is why i bought my machine in the first place but very quickly my skill level was lacking. Thanks for all the tips & thricks through the years and now a step by step how to! Grea great video!!
Thanks.
Joe' blondie ' and adam are my favorites. Blondie has been working on this for a while but gotta have joe's take on it much appreciated thanks
NIce video! Love my indical. I set mine to a ring if I have one, but more likely to a micrometer locked on the dimension or a stack of gage blocks with tool bits on the end. It is one of those tools where you have fish around for the smallest dimension.
Both of these videos are an excellent example of difficult machining. While watching I was imagi ing how to do this without a milling machine but with a decent drill press and an x/y vice. By the the builder got through filing the surfaces flat they would be really good with a file.
Filing is also a big part of a true US apprenticeship. ( back in the 70's)
@@joepie221 UK too in the 60's... in my case hi.
I watched the video fascinated by the orderly, logical sequence of operations that maximize the value of each setup.
Thanks for sharing your insight and experience.
Thanks for watching. It went well.
Hi Joe, just want to say thank you for the time and effort you put into creating your content. I also sub to BH's, and saw the similar content recently. I don't see the conflict with each series, and will be watching both with interest to note the process and results given the difference in experience and equipment...I don't know what's wrong with demonstrating that. Some things that I do on a professional level, and am always interested to see how someone else achieves a similar result, with a different and perhaps less technical approach.
I enjoy your content, as I enjoy Blondies, and I say to both of you, Thanks!
Stay Safe mate👍
Our presentations are coming from polar opposite ends of the spectrum. I think it is a great source for many of you to decide what works for you. Thanks for the comment.
If you are truly into the subject half an hour is basically nothing, i don't see a problem watching much more about it. As long as no one claims to be the definitive source, which would be questionable in century-old-technology hobby projects.
Oh hell yeah! Look forward to this series 😁
Me too. Thanks.
@@joepie221 great start Joe, I learn so much from your videos. Keep up the great work, from one very amateur hobby machinist 😊
Excellent video! I just bought this kit and I will be using your video series. I am a 48 year machinist, so I can do the work. You will make it great! Thanks.
Its a fun kit. Not too technical. I hope this series helps.
A good tip to use on machining the main engine frame is to mount that frame to a square steel plate and use that to hold the engine frame to do all the machines that way everything is square and perpendicular
You have to start somewhere though. Maybe several steps before you get to that starting point.
If this looks a bit scary to anyone thinking of building one I can assure you that Joe is very good at machining and it will be perfect. But it doesn’t need to be. Those slots where steam comes in and out need to be spot on for distance. However, you can make mistakes and fix them. Like making an oversize piston because the bore went wrong. This is a really old design from an age with some pretty basic 19th century workshop machines. On top of that it is designed to be reworked as it wears. So jump in there and make a steam engine :D
As always...lots of lessons included as you build.....thank you
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by.
Great way to pass an evening away. Thanks Joe ! I found a new idea for soft vice jaws, Rawhide. Crazy glue was made to glue skin. Cut some strips and glue em up. I make some on my site.
Aloha Joe, I have made this kit, it is interesting to see how you do it, At the time I did it I had a very small mill so much of my work was done on the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. Thought processes similar, but dictations by tools on hand change things. Now that I have a nice mill it might be fun to do it again, but I am running out of room for the finished projects. Mahalo and keep them coming.
I’ve heard Quinn mentioned you numerous times but this is the first time I am watching one of your videos. Beautiful work and good pacing. I suddenly have the urge to make a steam engine as well
Good job. My uncle used to receive castings gratus, from major model engine builder-mafg'rs just to see how he would build them. I used to document, make drawings, of his finished product. I remember one mtg' r was Rossi.
Castings can be fun. You just have to get inside the head of the designer.
Fantastic video Joe!
Absolutely love sitting down with a coffee and watching your latest instalment on a Sunday morning!
Thankyou...! From sunny Queensland, Australia
My pleasure.
This is like listening to someone speaking a foreign language. I have no concept or aptitude for any of this. This isn’t a knock at all. It’s impressive. Thank goodness there are people like all of you that can comprehend and work with this kind of stuff. I remember taking a “Metals” class in high school and running a lathe to make a screwdriver. Recall lots of hot, sharp and oily shards of metal. lol Nice collection of videos you have. I got here because I love trains and it said “steam engine”. 😁
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you come back for the rest of the build. Also search Chuck Tipton. He built a steam traction engine that will amaze you.
Good to see you doing some model engineering!
Hi Crispin. Good to hear from you. I've never done one of these. How's your's coming along?
@@joepie221 Have a look on my channel. Cheers
Its great to watch a true professional build one of these. You really make it look so simple, a mark of vast experience. Thank you so much for taking the time to show us how its done!
Thank you very much! Its nice to know its received as intended.
Ir didn't show in the video but I take it there is a set screw to hold the tap handle to the 5-40 tap. Never thought of holding the tap mid-shank instead of at the square end. I am always learning from the sensei.
Yes. You can even add a small flat to the tap shank if the screw slips.
Great video as always, full of tips and tricks, Thank you.
But..... the number of advert breaks is getting ridiculous now, there were 8 breaks in that vid for me, with most being 2 ads per break!! This is getting worse that tv!!
Use Firefox as browser and the Adguard plugin, and you will get rid of all ads.
For the record, I allow mid roll ads, but never put them there myself. Its an automatic TH-cam thing. Please hang in if you can.
Pay $10/month for youtube premium and you don't get any adverts and Joe and any others you watch get more $ than if you watch the adverts. Add blockers will eventually make youtube a subscription only service like netflix. You tube costs a lot of $$ to sustain the servers, storage and bandwidth required for us to watch videos. They have to get paid or no more youtube.
Joe Pieczynski I got 13 mid roll ads. An ad every couple minutes is ridiculously distracting on a video where the viewer is trying to pay attention to sequencing, and it ruins your content. Please consider turning them off.
It’s great the way you explain your setups and why. Thanks Joe , lots of good info.
Glad you enjoyed it
love to see you do this with only a lathe and drill press. take to long but fun to see. thanks , waitin on #2
Joe, you make it look easer than it is! i refuse to miss ANY of this series!! poppy
Awesome instruction! I watch lots of YT, but on this channel I pay total attention. I have a lot of experience working metal, but learn a lot here every time. That Indi-Cal is almost 3000 Bucks, and looks like something one could make at home. I have a two point Helios Inside mike that does most things that can do. Its 0-50mm in one tool.
Its sold out, but under $300. www.flexbar.com/products/indi-cal-internal-groove-gage
@@joepie221 One zero to many ;)
lots of good set up info here.i'm liking this a lot. looking forward to the next video. thanks prof joe
Thanks for watching!
@@joepie221 can u please tell me the kit part number?
@@redneckswitwheels Here you go.
www.pmmodelengines.com/shop/steam/steam-engines/steam-engine-1/
And it all looks so easy! Great work, Nice to see a good machinist
I appreciate that.
You’ve recommended the indical , so I will return the gesture by mentioning “Clupet”cast iron piston rings....recommended by many steam engine fans, and made in the U.K. by some old guy in a shed. They overlap on themselves like a key ring ring does, and remove the problem of ring gaps closing up as engine parts heat up at different speeds!!
Excellent video Joe. I am restarting this series with my Great Nephew. I can’t imagine a better experience for a budding young engineer.
Thanks John. I appreciate the support. I hope he enjoys it.
Best thing about machining cast iron is not needing any cutting fluid...less mess to clean up. Also easy on tooling.
Dirty, but fun to work with.
Fantastic as always, you do it your way Qynn does it her way, Keith does it his way… all very interesting to watch!!
Mine was to print. :)
I have started building one of these on my channel. This has given me inspiration.
I hope my material can help you. I'll have to stop by and check out your progress.
Yeh it's useful for sure. Can't wait to get to the cylinder etc.
Very good set up ideas. I struggled with the castings. You make it look easy.
Thank you for this video.
Thanks for the comment. A little pre-planning goes a long way.
I sat fascinated all the way through this episode, thank you. I have built a Stewart v10 at my modest home workshop. Turned out well and works. No where near skill level of you Joe. Great series and thanks for posting.
Quinn is making this one too.
As more more than one you tubers are doing the same project I can’t help wondering if they were all the models we’re together would they all look identical .thanks Dwayne NZ.
You decide. I personally doubt it.
Joe! I just freaking love how you freehand facing the cylinder faces. Mad skilz of The Master Craftsman you are.
Can you revisit your Mill driving maze skill builder sometime?
Best thing you could do to.imptove the game of all of Home Gaming wannabe DIYers.
Show us how its SUPPOSED to done.
High speed, low drag. WITHOUT CNC!
I do have a video on that maze. Check my channel.
Nice work on the steam engine. What’s the name of the engine and do you know where it can be purchased? Following the build and will do one myself shortly.
G'day Joe and greetings from Tasmania Australia, I am very glade that I happened to stumble across this one Joe, I am about to build a No7 horizontal mill it's large and I have picked up some great advise and ideas. Thanks mate kind regards John
Feel free to ask some questions if ya have any. I'll reply if I can.
A vacuum is a good thing with Cast Iron, especially if you value your machine tools.
Tbf we've been machining cast iron on our machines for over 8 years now. Some blast air others flood coolant and the worst I've had to deal with was chiselling out the swarf chute after being left for 6 months while I was furloughed.
Im not saying its not bad, just maybe not as bad as people say....
@@wildin13 Try selling machines that run cast iron. No one wants them. I sold 52 new machines to a Bosch plant 12 years ago and they were trashed in a few years from running cast iron dry. Depends on how you run them and what you are doing. If you don't own them, no worries but when you are on the hook financially it's a different story. Tell the used dealer that you ran cast iron and watch the deal change. LM guides are the best at running cast iron, box way machines get eaten up by the stuff. That's why Joe is using a vacuum.
Looking forward to seeing this one through.👍
You and me both!
Good work and efficient use of set up time.
Thanks 👍
Excellent machining [every day's a school day!!!] thanks.
Hi Joe I am building the same kit now . Wish my Clausing table mill had a DRO so I suffer till that happens . You look to be a well skilled machines and finding your videos very helpful. Best BB
I have a video on making life easier without having a DRO. You should check it out for reference.
Joe I noted your Co name and looked up up, Wow what a great looking shop , a total Quality Driven Shop. I look forward to reviewing all you first class videos. Thank You again for you effort to share your advanced machining skills and knowledge. BB
10.11 he says that slot he just milled is for,the air coming in ????. I am no professional but a hobbyist and steam engine related . My understanding of the center slot is steam out ie. exhaust . Steam pressure is required to hold the slide valve on the port face. Pressure coming in the center slot will lift the slide valve up
I may have to revisit the drawings for you. Please pay attention to the drawing notes I show.
Joe Pieczynski at 18.04 you are cleaning up the end for,the gland for,the valve rod ? The round raised boss to the left of that in the video is the steam inlet which enters the steam chest . The slot you milled at 10.11 does not meet up with that . The slot meets up with the other boss on other side which will be the exhaust
Joe Pieczynski at 19.20 you state the exhaust meets the center slot . So you contradicted your self at 19.20 compared to 10.11
@@scorpion2nz Easy does it boss. I'll produce the perfect model, but I'mm far from an expert on whats called what. if I'm wrong, I'll admit it, but have to go back over the notes. this video was composed from 2 1/2 hours of raw footage and ended up being 93 edited segments. If I contradicted myself, I apologize, but this production was very tough to layout.
I'm amazed at you running handwheels on a circumference making it look CNC!
It was actually an apprenticeship exercise I had to pass before I could work on actual parts. Forward and reverse.
@@joepie221 Since seeing this, I've already started on some cut rounds to practice.
Joe Pieczynski how long did you have to practice the moves before you were confident enough to take the test ?
This is the best ENGINE build i ve seen yet . Much better than the others because every operation is purpose driven instead of well i could or ya but driven .
Joe, you are THE MAN. Thank you sir.
I.m fairly sure that centre port is for exhaust steam and the fresh steam comes in over the valve and into the inlet ports when the valve is moved uncovering them?
You are correct in your supposition. That port is indeed the exhaust port. The steam inlet is in the other side of the steam chest. The feed steam is supposed to push on the valve body sealing the valve body to the valve port face. It would "work" the other way round but with a lot of wasted steam around the valve body and greatly reduced power/efficiency!
Clicked the wrong button..
Time 31:30. Joe P, the wizard, magic again.
Time 38:55 What do You think about putting the tap in the drill chuck just after the tap drilling? More tool changes but precision looks like being good to me, quite new in this profession.
Time 46:00 Brutal but very efficient.
Time 47.15 Left turn, counter clockwise rotation. Why? Lack of CW tooling?
Time 48:50 What a tool. Probably cost "some money".
Time 49:25 A pice of cake?
That was a marathon video well worth viewing when having lots of time. A lesson from a Master.
"Well done" is my comment to many machinists. Here it would be aninsultment. Whow! Greate!
Thank you for your comments and compliment. I'll answer you in order
1. Thanks
2. a tap in a chuck is Ok under certain circumstances. I didn't want to risk breaking one here.
3. Yep
4. my best cast iron boring bar just happens to be LH
5. I like cake.
@@joepie221 Thanks a lot for Your time and Your reply Joe. Replying, "judging", other TH-camrs, my expression for admirable work is "A Joe Pie-class work". That's how I feel.
2. My mill has a variable speed controll starting from 0. Installing the tap in the Jacobs chuck, lower it down to the hole, apply a light down preassure, and turn the speed knob just off 0. That gives an RPM of 30 or lower. Let the chuck turn " a few turns", listen to the load, and cut off early. Then release the tap and the chuck, and hand tap. The tap by then has got a good angle down into the hole and it has not made me disappointed yet. I use a 6" - 8" inch handle and care to turn it well balanced. That has not failed me. What did You call the misalignment? Yeh! "Mild tornado!" (Checking Your video again) I'll call it "a cream whip". You really have Your feet on the ground as we say over here, Europe, Sweden.
Having almost no experience, time is the resource to give some kind of precision.
4: One uses what one got. My mill boaring bar head would unscrew turning leftwards....
Covid19-effect is here, sitting alone, self-isolated, milling, turning and cutting but health is the best. Wish You stay safe and continue Your Youtubing.
Wow, lots going on here, I will have to re-watch some parts as you are travelling a bit beyond my comfort zone. I see a lot of areas of potential error for the uninitiated. Well done Joe, enjoyed it immensely, great filming work! Cheers!
2 1/2 hours of raw footage cut into almost 100 individual segments. This one was tough to compose. I'm glad you like it and hop you come back for part 2.
EXCELLENT!!!! You are the best! I enjoyed watching this thoroughly!
I bought my PM Research #1 kit a long time ago in the 2000's (date on prints says 12-1-00). I got it out so I can look at the prints as I watch the videos. It looks like they made some changes to the castings. My crankshaft does not have that extra piece of stock in the middle. Also my slide rails are not together on that elongated horseshoe but are separate.
I also have the fly-ball governor for this engine that sold as a separate kit. Would be interesting to see you do one of those too.
That would be fun. I plan to make a miniature chuck soon. That should be fun.
@@joepie221 I have the Engine Lathe kit that has a 1" chuck. Good thing it is a 4 jaw chuck where the jaws move independently. Can you imagine making a 3 jaw chuck where all the jaws move together. I also have the Milling Machine, Wood Lathe and Drill Press along with a Boiler kit among other steam engines I bought. I have a D10 Stuart kit and the reversing gear kit for it.
Hi Joe,
Thank you. It is an absolute pleasure watching you machine this steam engine and showing your techniques for setup. Looking forward to the next video. Is this the same steam engine that Quinn is currently machining? You and the family stay safe.
joe fantastic tutorial just all the numbing adverts you tube force you to watch seem to forget what youve just seen anyway all the very best from uk....
I watch on a Chromebook and don't get any adverts. Just sayin'.
What a blessing to watch a master craftsman methodically plow through these features. Gold nuggets everywhere. Love the ‘vice-code’ guiding those hand wheels. So thoughtfully simple. Thanks Joe. 👍👍😎👍👍
Joe, May I ask how you determine the depth of the various center drill holes such that you get the perfect chamfer for the final drill and tap size? Maybe it is just experience, but clearly you are doing something deliberate 😊.
I drill them to just a little larger than the thread. I can usually hit it by eye with a pin local for comparison.
@@joepie221 With a pin for comparison. Gem to remember. now mine will be perfect to
I use a stripped down mains hair clipper to demagnetize my chucks and vices. Just a few seconds is all it takes.
Really appreciate these vids and u sharing your experience
Thanks. I hope it helps.
Really nice bore and great video, Iam learning and your help is appreciated. Thanks for sharing!
I always enjoy your videos Joe. Thanks for making them for us!
I’m stuck here not to miss the next part.
It just posted.