Align / offset your nozzle and bed to maximise available build volume
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2024
- What do you do if the nozzle no longer lines up correctly with the bed on your 3D printer? If you do nothing, your prints will be off centre and you may lose build volume. The good news is there are some straightforward fixes which I will present to you in this video.
If you can't adjust your endstops, move the frame, access the firmware or M206, then maybe buy a new 3D printer.
M206 reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206....
0:00 Introduction
1:29 Adjusting endstop positions
3:51 Sliding Y rail fore and aft on an i3 style frame
6:14 Changing min position in firmware
9:16 Defining workspace offsets with M206
10:32 Conclusion
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Every time I hear the intro I think aww yeee time to learn how to do some random 3d printing thing
I just discovered the M206 yesterday and got a lot of space back! This is one of those GOLD videos! thanks for posting!
Yesterday i had a lot of trouble trying to print a very large print in my Ender 3 and did some trial and error to manage to print it, this video would have been very helpful.
Thank you this fixed my 2 year problem. Absolute mint. Always tried to fix it in firmware never thought about 5he physical location
That was clever, using t-nuts to reposition the y rail. Thanks for sharing!
2 years later and it's still incredibly useful information that's really going to help me with my biqu h2 v2s revo and hermit crab installation
Loving the Jimmy Broadbent t-shirt!
Just assembled my SK-Go2, this video came just in time. Thanks Michael!
Great video! I've been messing with this after installing the Microswiss. They have a file but it doesn't work for my machine and even though this seems like something that should be easy to fix it has been hard for me to find a solution. This video puts all the solutions in one spot and makes it easy, thanks Michael.
Dude...... this has bothered me forever and a day!!! Thanks for posting!!! You just saved me so many headaches over and over again!!!
Thanks Michael! I've been needing to get this done on my ender 3 for some months, but couldn't quite figure out the correct G-code. This will probably do the trick!
My first go-to is the M206. I used that quite a few times on my overly modified Anet A8 that now has the aluminum extrusion AM8 upgrade. Seems much easier to do than the physical modifications to the frame.
Literally the exact video I need at this exact moment in my life!!!
Another great video, loved seeing the BIQU BX in another video. I can't wait until I get mine!
Thanks man! Your videos are always so informative and a great resource for fixing issues in the printing community! Cheers
I got all excited by the Prusa Mini in the thumbnail, only to find it missing in the video.
The Prusa doesn't have this problem but was happy to lend itself to a photo op. Sorry if it was misleading, I didn't think it would be of consequence.
@@TeachingTech No worries. I've gotten so much out of your other videos, I'm happy to watch through this one. At some point, I'm sure I'll be able to put these ideas to use.
Thanks Michael - after upgrading my ender 5 pro to a direct extruder kit that had different rollers - this meant the x-axis microswitch didn't work in the same spot. The ender 5 pro didn't have an adjustment, but i found that a T-slot nut did the trick. Thanks for your vid.
Finally someone explained this properly. Thanks buddy!!! 😁
Woot.. I just got finished adding linear rails onto my ender (which I also modded to have a E3D V6 clone on it) and I moved my Y axis extrusion forward to get my full Y travel back.. works like a charm!
Oh mr. Mike !! Where was this video ages ago lol I have struggled with this with my first printer my wonderful ender 3 and could not find any help online !!! Ty so much you have been an essential key to my road down additive manufacturing on many topics please keep them coming!
Hey Just a quick note of thanks. I'm rebuilding my AM8 and needed to get this part sorted. Thanks for the help!
M206 FTW Sir, thanks much for this one 👍👍
Excellent video. Made setting up my ender 3 with biqu h2 easy. Thanks so much
Nice. Never new what the offset was for
You also can do a G92 home offset in Cura for your specific printer!
Nice! Just bought a new hotend, so I need to do this
Neat modifications!
Thank you. I learn so much from your channel.
Thanks it helped a lot 😁 your the best!
Great video, gave me a few ideas.
Thanks for your video, very useful !
Installed a new extruder setup on my self made printer. Had to completely replace the aluminum on the X axis, it just wasn't long enough anymore. Also had to move the linear rails down something near 30mm. Was a rather large change, with nearly all components moved down a ways.
I actually dont know how I will solve the problem yet but I need to tellyou that your video was really helpful! It showed me my options and what the problem actually is. The only thing that could be a bit more deep covering is where the home point should be lol. But again Thank you for your time and effort
Thanks. This should help me get my printers back in check.
In Marlin firmware you can also use:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS -5
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9
Once you load the firmware, you just have to restore to defaults and store.
THANK YOU!
Thanks!!! Very useful! Congratulations for the video :)
How could you forget M428? 😀 My favorite insta-fix for adjusting home offsets. Move the nozzle to where you want 0,0,0 to be, enter M428 and presto you're done. M500 Saves.
SIMPLE AS THAT ?
@@carbide1968 Yeah, I did a whole video on it. You don't have to move it with gcode either. As long as you're within 2cm of the mechanical endstop once you enter M428 that position becomes 0,0,0. I use it all the time when swapping out a build surface or when I load new firmware.
There is an LCD menu option for that too, but as you mention you must be within a certain distance of the home position for it to work. I chose to focus on a less efficient method that works in every case. Thanks for commenting
@@Daytona60146 I moved the y carriage forward as in the video above because of a direct drive and hotend swap on my E3V2. The 0,0 is now X -6 and Y-21. This is what happens when I M428 it. Send: M428 Send: M428 Recv: Error:Too far from reference point, Changing monitoring state from "Operational" to "Error: Too far from reference point", Send: M112, Send: N3 M112*34, Send: N4 M104 T0 S0*37, Send: N5 M140 S0*96, Changing monitoring state from "Error: Too far from reference point" to "Offline (Error: Too far from reference point)", Connection closed, closing down monitor
@@Daytona60146 I can't find the video you refer to, could you post a link please?
Fantastic videos
Thanks for saving my 3d printer.... again.
Thank you sir.
I did put a Hero Me Gen 5 on an Ender 3 Pro - I would never thought to replace bolts that go into tapped holes to shorter bolts with T nuts, I have those parts, so probably will make this modification and get my 20 mm of Y length back. Thanks for the idea, as well as the other advice!
It is so obvious in hindsight but I only thought of it recently. My Ender 3 has been printing like this for a few weeks with no adverse effects.
There is also the option to set home offsets from the LCD screen.
I believe there is a restriction on how far from the home position this works. A good option depending on the specific situation.
@@TeachingTech I have tried to use this on my Ender 3 and it wouldn't work. It said it was out of bounds. I added linear rails and changed out the hotend to a Hero Me Gen5 and forgot to update the firmware.
I've been doing this with a combination of G92. It's just a matter of measuring how far off the 0,0 is from expectations.
My latest friend of 3D printing has been aluminum tape. I put a small bit of aluminum tape on the front left corner.
G28
M211 S0 (turn off software end stops)
G0 X0 Y0 Z0
Then, babystep X, Y to add close as you can to 0,0. If either is inset on the bed and you can't move out at all, babystep Z down to the tape and move it along that axis to mark the tape. Then, use your calipers to mark how far inset your axis is.
For me, homing X,Y puts me 3.5mm in from the left edge of the bed, but Y is 2mm out in the air in front. So, once I babystepped Y to actual zero, I entered
G92 Y0
This told the printer that spot was zero.
Then, I moved Z down to the tape so it was just enough to mark it, and babystepped Y back about 10-15mm. I then moved the nozzle carriage out of the way and was easily able to get an accurate build plate to X offset. (Note: you may want to check the back left corner too in case your frame is crooked.) Then, I just use the M206 method in the video.
Two things:
G92 can also be used to reset your Z0 height.
Aluminum tape "scratching" is a great help for measuring your M851 offsets.
For the ender 3 X-axis, rather than rebuild/redesign the stopper holder, just print a little buffer clip to put on the side of the print head mounting plate. Thus it hits the stopper at the desired offset
i love your videos when mine is done printing i will trouble shoot. my ender 5 is printing in the left bottom corner and cutting the print at the edge of the bed.
First View! Thanks so much for creating this video, not that I have this problem, but I will probably enable workspace offsets, in case something ever does happen.
Merci !
If you can't access the firmware to do M206. Then use G92 as part of the start G-code, like this...
G28 :home
G92 X-4.0 Y-8.0
The G92 simply tells it where the nozzle actually is relative to the print bed. It's in mm. So after homing, my nozzle winds up 4 mm outside of X and 8mm outside of Y. If it's in inside x and y then use a positive number. Measure your own bed relative to nozzle and input your own values.
This is the line I used with my kobra max and it prints center now when centered in cura. No need to mess with the stops.
I did it numerous times the correct way.. But it just worked after storing it with the eeprom 🤦♂️
Thanks for the reminding help! 😅
I've actually done this out of boredom on my Ender 3pro some time ago, managed to squeeze out a 235*237 from the bed. Worthy mod if using a glass bed/ABL, otherwise it will turn into a bed adhesion nightmare at the edges.
I mounted a paper on the print bed and, marking corner to corner, mad an X.
I drew up an open, hollow X made an stl and printed it. I measured the distance off, changed the bed dimensions in cura and repeated, if needed until the drawn X was perfectly in the printed X.
I doubled the dimensional changes in the printer setup an prints perfectly. I just need to never print larger than the bed. I can truly print 300mm x 300mm on my U20 ONE
love the shirt !
I've been needing to do this, thanks for including the G.Code way of doing it. My problem is just that Prusa Slicer has my Y axis WAY wrong on my Ender 3, but Cura has it correct. So I've had a few print failures with Prusa Slicer. I like it overall but have been manually moving my prints "back" on the bed (and losing print volume).
Sounds like each slicer may have the print volume defined differently. Maybe check this in the settings?
Lol , was just trying to figure this out last night.
perfect ! But can you do it for a klipper way ?
Thanks to your videos and positive attitude, I have over come my fears of trying VScode and compiling my own firmware. so i just line up the tip with the corner of the bed and measure the distance traveled. then update firmware. Also do you think the Lerdge K main board would be a good fit for a low rider 2 project? I was just thinking that it's configurable from the touch screen and supports enough drivers. I would love to know what you think about it.
I'm a fan of the Lerdge fitted to Tevo Little Monster, it works well for a 3D printer. When I did the Lowrider I used a custom touch screen interface with buttons for for zeroing the coordinates, etc. I think the Lerdge would be ok for general movement but specifics like this could be more difficult.
So in short
When you home X,Y (display reads 0,0 ) if the nozzle is off the bed it's software (min X, POS )
If the nozzle is on the bed at 0,0 it's hardware endstop that needs to be moved.
You want position 0,0 to be on the bed.
What about max positions.
For ABL ?
You want to be able to print in that area but if the probe is on left of hotend you still need to be able to move the X,Y more than max of where nozzle is ????
I never thought this was a problem I always learn something new
Perfection size is properly measured
I have a Two Trees Sapphire Pro. Its my first and only 3D printer so far but I think its pretty awesome. Its stated build plate size is:
235 x 235 x 235 mm
I am printing something that is 220mm x 90mm Rectangular.
Cura won't allow me to print it unless I scale it to 99% and align it diagonally.
I have checked the Home position and its right in the corner actually outside of the grid on my build plate.
When I had the print with x = 0 and y = 0 in Cura it was cropping two of the corners.
I changed the alignment in cura to x= -4 and y=4.
Now it is printing without cropping however I want it to print full size and not have the offset problems.
I have not modified my printer.
I have never played with Marlin I'm pretty new to 3D printing.
Any suggestions on making this thing work like intended?
Thanks.
Give that man a Knighthood
Great video as always. Has helped me with my ender. Now just need a Lerdge config file for Tevo Little Monster. Anyone able to help?
I was googling this exact issue an hour ago... are you watching me @teaching tech?!
Can you do a video on what to do if you home z in the middle of the bed and not the corner?
Ha nice shirt I have the same in a hoodie version
Tried M206 to offset 8mm on the Y axis. Didn't work. Probably got the no_offsets setting on the original creality fw on a cr10s pro v2.
How would you do this in klipper? I have the Micro swiss direct drive kit for the ender 3 and my x is -5 and y is -10. I was wondering if there was an option.
How do you set the home position to include bed leveling?
A new print head on my Ender 3 hanging over 10mm off the front of the bed. When I try to mesh level the first five point are in mid air. And I'm unable to level properly.
Hi Michael,
It would be a good idea to also flag that if you have a BL touch or proximity sensor to also ensure this touches the bed too. I just upgraded my cr10s pro to the new spider hotend and housing and the bl touch design ment the bl touch was off the bed. On testing the hotend positioned correctly on the bed and when homing the hotend scratched the glass bed and almost damaged the mounts because the bl touch could not touch a flat surface.
Are you using safe homing to home in the middle of the bed? With this plus correct probe offsets this *should* be avoidable.
@@TeachingTech I probably should have highlighted that I do auto bed levelling on every 3D print. When this occurred points 2 and 3 for the auto levelling caused the BL touch to be off the bed. With the new spider 3D kit, the BL touch is mounted on the front of the new housing. I fixed the issue by modifying the spider 3D mounting parts to use the original BL touch location. If anyone else uses the auto levelling with the bed level sensor on the front, they may run into this issue with the hothead been driven into the bed.
Please no punterino Jimmer!
Came here for this! :D
I have the new Creality touchscreen on my Ender 3 Pro and so I don't have the option to change the home offsets on the machine. How can you do this over pronterface?
Will this work if I'm using a bl touch not and end stop for z axis
Thank you, I was able to get my bed right were I needed it with the help of this video!!!! Keep up the great work! TYTYTYTYTYTY
Is it possible, to print somethoing which is just 4 mm bigger than my plate? (fitting a bigger glass of course to print to) The axis movement would cover the travels needed, so how can I tell the printer to work in Y 230 mm instead of 220?
Hey can you make a video on how can we add power cut resume feature to our 3d printer
I'd like to see that too. I just had a power failure 6 hours into a 12 hour print. ARGH!!!!
i put 300mm rods on my ender 3, so its 235 on x and y, and 300 on z. but its always about 30mm short of hitting the full 300mm when i raise z all the way. in the screen it shows 300mm, and marlin in visual code shows its 300mm tall as well. how can i make sure i take advantage of the full 300mm height, and regain those 30mm?
Hi Michael I have a cr10s pro v2 with custom firmware I've installed a microswiss direct drive extruder, issues I'm having is x axis isn't adjustable as nozzle going too far to edge of bed hitting build plate clips, also when probing with bl touch on a print file it probes and just stops won't print tried reflashing boars firmware also screen, still won't print
what is the gcode commands to enter in Pronto to adjust the build plate volume as should be 300x300x400
how do I change the home position on an ender 6 the home position is in the middle.
I had no idea that homing the printer had to go to the left hand corner. thought it was suppose to be just off to the side. if I set x & y like in the video but dont flash the firmware will that work too?
Each printer is different and there is no set place to home. Ender 3 is front left, Ender 5 is rear right, SeckitSK-GO after my mods is left rear. The firmware should already be setup for each of these.
How does one make similar firmware adjustments in klipper?
new mission: increasing my Ender 5 build size to 233x233mm, wish me luck
My fix was easy. I just loosen 2 screws on each endstop and moved the X and Y endstops to the correct position.
If you can not do that then i think you have a bad designed printer.
My (problem) is more probe related.
I do have 2 printheads installed.
25 25 mm (Nozzle to nozzle 50mm)
My probe does look like this: N-------------P-------------N (N=Nozzle, P=BLTouch probe)
The problem is that i can probe about 5 mm away from the right-edge of the bed bud the left i can not probe less then 40 mm of the bed-edge.
It lookes like this:
L R
| N-------------P-------------N | Right bed probe
| N-------------P-------------N | Left bed probe (more space on the left)
As you can see does the probe reach the right edge of the bed but the probe can not go to the left edge of the bed.
I can move the probe manualy to the left edge of the bed so fisicaly there is no problem probing the complete bed area.
Question:
How do i configure the nozzle to probe offset?
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 25, 0, 0 } // (Nozzle to nozzle = 50mm, 25mm left & right of the probe)
Is the probe offset calculated from the left or the richt nozzle?
What does determine the probe to bed-edge distance?
Can somewone show me what i must do to correct this difference?
Thank you
I am on an Ender 3 using SXR E3 v2 and I changed the X_MIN_POS and the Y_MIN_POS. To line up with what I see (-30y and -10x) but when I autohome I don't see it at -30, -10 I see it in the normal spot and the display shows 0,0. I am on the newest version of marlin. Any idea what I might be missing.
I am going to try the BTT SKR spec marlin instead of latest from Github and see if that helps
Can I physically lock my x axes so it don't move when changing filament.
On one of my Ender 3 printers, the purge line is printed right on the edge of the left-hand side of the build plate, the limit switch is not adjustable on the X-axis, what do you think would be the best solution to this problem?
A. add a piece of plastic to the side of the hot-end assembly to trigger the sensor early.
B. change the min settings in firmware.
Thats a slicer problem, unrelated to the hardware of your 3d printer or its firmware.
You could move the purge line in the start gcode as Isaac says, and unless you are printing right up to the edge this will fix the issue. Otherwise as you say you have a choice of mechanical or firmware fixes.
@@isaacchen3366 Thanks!
@@AndrewAHayes Anytime!
HI, idk if anyone will have an answer, but I followed everything he said and didn't make any drastic changes to the settings of my ender 3 pro 3d printer. But it just prints to the whole left edge of the bed, it wont print anywhere else and idk what to do...anyone know what to do? what settings? what am I doing wrong? :(
My problem is that my 0.0 goes to the front left corner ok, but when it moves to the center it's way off> Can't figure out how to correct that.
please no punterino jimmer
So what is the "Home Offset" setting on the LCD in an Ender 3 for ? Sounds deceptively like you just need to input the x,y error values using that feature/command and you're done. But I can't seem to make "Home Offset" do ANYTHING. What IS IT ?
Michael Vampire confirmed. Vampires need to check and align their teeth so they can find the blood vessels straight. It's painful for a guest to have several bites in order to find the blood. Thank you Michael, you're so subtle. Have a nice day.
Edit: of course some vampires prefer to drink into blood bags and suck the liquid from a tube. Like we could watch in Supernatural.
Also, with ABL an offset on the bed can screw up leveling since the grid thinks it is at 0,0 but it isn't really
Yep, thats happening to me :(
So your telling me to use marlin I have to dismantle my entire printer and change how it sits? So the nozzle is correct?
What if the nozzle was INSIDE the buildplate instead of outside the buildplate?
is this a jimmy broadbent shirt?! :D
Why not just adjust the bed position in the slicer instead of messing with the firmware?
Ok, scary. My CR10S was also -20 and -30. lol
Come on, what sim is your favourite? Pls No Punterino, Jimmer.
Can I lo
I’ve watched 14 ads for this video and have yet to see it.