I will probably post more on this topic than usual since I have been painting for 25 years and in the industry for over 30. Nitrile...NEVER EVER LATEX....you are spot on with that. Warming up the paint is an old painters trick I still do this and some epoxy paints you have to let them sit for 20 minutes before spraying. That paint hit the market a few years ago and I use it also at times. You can actually put different base color in the cans. So lets say you paint your care with PPG and you can actually have the paint store put your paint into an aerosol can and use it later for projectcs.
When I didn't have easy access to a bucket of hot water I would use a Heat gun to gently heat the can .. always Very careful how hot it was getting and always kept the heat moving.. hairdryer works too in the same way
A trick I just came up with last year when I had to use a bunch of very settled cans of paint was to duct tape the can to a sawzall blade, in my sawzall and I let Milwaukee shake it up. ..it did a fine job .
Not a safety sally at all but one quick note on your respirator, those pink filters are only meant for particulates. They're definitely better than nothing but especially for the solvents in paint and doubly so for hardened paint, I recommend looking into the organic vapor cartridges that work with that mask, 3M# 6001. They also make prefilters for it so that they don't clog as fast. And a light first coat/tack coat is a good idea, it helps keep your first heavy coat from running
Cyocanates, probably didn't spell that right, are in anything sprayed that has a hardener mixed in they are not filtered out by charcoal filters. The only way to combat them is a fresh air system. The biggest problem is they build over time and are cancer causing. Charcoal only works for particulates.
I'm shopping for some of your stuff right now because of Nate. You guys should do a coupon code. I'd damn near paint my whole jeep with this stuff after seeing this video and the finish he got from it.
DO NOT THROW SAID FILTER IMMEDIATELY IN THE TRASH. Sorry for all caps, but warranted in this case. The paint-soaked filter flashes (exothermic reaction) and can catch fire. I found this out when I opened the trashcan to throw away the second filter and was greeted with a Backdraft (1991 movie) type scene (well, to me at least). Luckily I have extinguishers scattered everywhere and only melted some trashbags.
Respirators are very important. What sucks is when I went to buy more filters every store was out. The virus has everyone buying all the masks and filters. Very good vid & info.
I do outside sales for a industrial supply company and that is an issue we are running into also. Our vendors cant even keep anything like that in stock.
First off: love your channel! Its inspired me to get deeper into nodding my vehicles in a more personal way. Second it would be awesome if you also painted a test piece and beat it up to see how the paint will hold up if I were throwing gear on the roof rack.
The exhaust from those salamander heaters can cause fish eyes in paint. And explosions with flammable vapors. Your shop is large enough I doubt it would be concentrated enough, guys with small shops need to watch out. Not knocking your work at all, that came out awesome!
Nate Nice intro for the safety items. One thing I added when I paint is a few box fans with a 20”x20” furnace filter over it. These suck the air where you are spraying and grab the paint particles so you don’t breath them in. Cleans the air. And controls where the particles go. So they are a lot less likely to land on nearby finished projects. Who needs black over spray on their tan Jeep.
After all the safety precautions, I am amazed to see you using two open flame heaters at floor level while spraying in the same area. This is in violation of fire safety codes in all 50 states. Even if the paint itself isn't flammable, the propellant is. Also, I saw no ventilation equipment running. I hope you do something to mitigate the chances of injury to yourself and or loss of your shop. (Fire Investigator, 32 years). Terry
painted 1/3 of my car with clear 2k paint and its pretty scuff proof ,stunning auto level glass finish , really easy ,i love it ... worth the price i guess cause its not cheap .like 2x $ of regular spray can clear
Nate this was another great video. Really enjoy your videography style. Kudos for the quick safety reminder in the beginning of the video. That is a mark of a true professional. The rack turned out awesome. I was really curious about the Eastwood 2-part paint. I follow their channel as well. This as a more in depth video with the product. Hopefully the Eastwood guys see your video. Would be smart for them to sponsor your channel. Seems like a win-win proposition! Thanks again from a fellow PNW resident!
Great video. A good tip also is to use adhesion promoter. After you get all of your prep done as best as possible a couple coats of that really helps your finish product be free from fish eyes and makes the areas that are had to get into that are so common with some projects come out like you are a paint prepping genius!
Nate I was a professional painter in the Motion Picture Studios for 10 years. this is a great informative video with excellent attention to detail but not so much that you couldn't retain all of the information. Very well done man!!
Since you went full blown TH-cam. The intros are amazing. Your film work as increased. I can tell you are able to put in a ton more work into these videos. Keep it up boss! Loving the channel thus far.
Your channel is one of my favorite channels. I came here to ask how you felt about paint vs powder coat... and you answered the question! Wish I had the tools and the knowledge to do what you do... but in the meantime I'm following for inspiration.
Enjoying your channel too. I second that comment regarding the filters. For paint go with the yellow organic ones. An example is 3M Safety 6001 Low-Maintenance Organic Vapor Cartridge. The magenta ones are a HEPA rated particulate filter for dust. They take out airborne contaminants down to like 0.3 microns. And maybe the MAPP gas can shouldn't be so close to the wood burning stove, LOL. I like to put a box fan in a window blowing the inside air out to create some air movement. Some paint fumes can be explosive as well, so be careful with open flames or hot embers around a build up of some types of paint fumes. Heck, even turning off the lights can create a small spark and cause an explosion from flammable fumes. I'm learning from you, especially the welding videos, so don't blow yourself up.
When painting parts with many different surfaces, go over all of the nooks, crannies, and details like raised letters or bosses, then go back 5-10 min later over everything. Definately wear safety equipment, prep, proper temp and use a tack coat first like Nate mentioned.
Another pro tip PAINT THE INSIDE FIRST! Especially on projects like that that you have to reach over or around less likely to bump on scratch your fresh nice paintjob that way
Can’t believe this video came out right when I want to paint my wheels, I think I’ll use this paint for my stock steelies. Amazing production quality! Edit: I didn’t realize how expensive that stuff is. Holy crap that’s like over $100 for all four wheels
A good little trick for time between coats is to spray a test patch at the same time anything from a bit of extra masking tape to some card anything, and touch it when you think its time if the paint sticks and strings its still to wet wait a little longer until its tacky to the touch but doesn't string reduces, the chances of runs massively
Thanks for the safety tips Nate! Good on you for including that. Edit: be careful with new rattle cans in the hot water, I had one pop the bottom from concave to convex. Didn't blow up but damn near.
I would add Body Seam Sealer to the inside of the rack where the plate is welded to the tubing to seal out dirt and mud, and to make sure rust does not form where the paint cannot reach. I would also seal the top between stitch welds if it is not weld all along the edge. The sealer comes in a caulking tube so you can apply it with a common caulking gun. Do not use Aveco brand caulking because it maybe hardened in the tube. My favorite is 3M brand, but it is about $45 a tube. Napa has good body seam sealer for around $15. I found that one fresh (not hardened in the tub) and very workable. I bead it on like caulking then squish it in and smooth it out with a finger and clean the excess and mess with lacquer thinner, acetone, or carb cleaner. It can be painted with self etch primer, regular primer, cheap rattle can paint, or two part epoxy paint. If you decide to a bracket or whatever you can dig out the immediate area to weld with a screw driver or scraper then grind clean your metal and weld. Make sure to re-apply seam sealer to nooks and crannies. I may take a bit of practice to work it but you will have a job that does not start leaking rust from the nooks and crannies. For funzzies, I laid a bead that ends in a point on one end and fashioned a head on the other end and painted it to look like a snake once the caulking sealer dried. You could also lay a bead in "squirts" to resemble a weld bead. Once you begin playing with it you can get as creative as you allow your mind.
Tack coat is for enamel or slower drying air dried paint layering. The first coat left to tack (for whatever 10 mins) will hold one even opaque thicker layer without running or drooping (fully opaque and glossy) rather than many thinner layers and hours of curing in between. Quality quickly requires a practices touch that takes account of temp and humidity with the paint viscosity balancing act of tradie industrial spraypainters skill set. 👌 Other finishes require different tweeks to leverage the product characteristics with time n quality restraints. Your doing well sharing and demonstrating dinky-die fab shortcuts Nate... on behalf of others watching, thanks for your dedication
definitely the paint in the hot water is a must for spray cans. It allows the paint to be sprayed with finer(smaller) paint molecules. much better finishing job with hot/warm paint over cold.
Just discovered your page and am currently building an 01 Suburban as a mild overlander for camping. I've done hobby welding and fabrication the last 10 years and also have a degree in 3D CAD Modeling. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. This will definitely be a channel I visit often. I like that you added safety glasses to the painting PPE. A few years back I was at the eye Dr and the optometrist said "have you been painting something blue?". I had paint all over my eyeball from spraying some industrial trailers a few weeks prior. I've been wearing safety glasses 99% of the time in the shop ever since!!
Been prepping an old roof basket for a couple days now and was wondering what to put back on it. Epoxy it is, didn’t even know that product existed so thanks man.
That was a great tutorial on finishing. Heat is absolutely critical to a quality finish, but relative humidity is an important consideration. The woodstove and/ or kero heater achieves both requirements. Methal hydrate is a great wiping product and it leaves no residue on the surface. Thanks.
another great job, but never paint with an open flame in the shop, the flash-over that occurs will melt the skin off your body before you hit the floor. heat up the room, shut down the flame, paint your project, then open all doors for 2 or 3 minutes ( not enough to cool down the metal) then fire up the heaters again. or get a bomb-proof heating system.
I need to try the 2 part for sure. I use the black 9 mil gloves from HF on sale 9.99, last much longer, even wrenching, Tip for overspray, small box fan sealed blowing out paint spray, sucking fresh air through a cheap heater filter in a opening on other side of shop. keeps dust from floating around landing on projects.
Used epox paint on tug boat and it great stuff but never knew it came in spray can! Going to have to get me some this. Thanks for the video and all the great videos you been putting out, keep up the great work!
Thanks for the tips! I knew most of this, but it's nice to see someone else doing it, to sort of reassure my methods. ;) Good call on the respirator. I usually paint outside if I can. There is always the risk of contaminants in the paint, but the risk to my lungs is much lower. My shop is also under my house, so all the fumes make their way up through the floorboards and nobody likes that. A good box fan or two helps when I have to paint in the garage.
Pro tip: use 3m general parts repair , it's a seam sealer and flexible parts filler/repair product, saves a lot of time and has a light flow to it so it smothes out and sands easy!
I cant recommend tractor brush on paint enough. I use it on my rig, you could also spray it with a spray gun. Limited colours, but I buy the satin black and use it on all my chassis stuff from TSC.
i am not a very safe person when i fabricate, but i wouldn't have an open flame heater on with paint fumes are present. better respirator for the iso paints is mandatory, as others have said. good video. we all don't know what we don't know
With runs on a job like that I found tape works great, test a piece off 6-10 inches, use the stocky side and roll it up the run. The motion it kinda like rolling a slinky, you only ever have about 1/2 inch of tape touching at a time. Your worried about over spray on your camera, its settled on everything in your shop. I take 2 cheap box fans, tape some air furnace filters to them and place them under my garage door, I have some cardboard I close in the rest of the gaps under my door. This pulls most of the over spray out of my shop. I still use a respirator though, but this helps keep the shop things clean.
You should check out steel-it paint. I have never used it myself but have heard it’s great. It’s spray paint but it’s claimed you can weld right over it without taking the paint off. They use it in Baja
Glad you did this video and with the paint that you used, I have been looking at this and wondering how it is. I will be watching to see how it does after a few months. Great job
Yes for sure 2 part epoxy primers & paints are harder, also are less susceptible to stains or damage from fluids such as fuel, hyd fluid, lubricants, ect. As with aircraft paints , there is usually a 15-30 min dwell time, after mixing / before application
Dwell time? In the boating industry we call it shaking hands . Mix the paint and let it shake hands for 30 minutes. We also try to heat up the hull before shooting.
That's interesting they make the epoxy paint in a spray can as well. Right now I have my tj all apart painting my frame in por15 which is suppose to an epoxy or hardening paint. Cant wait to see how that paint holds bc that could save me doing some touch ups later down the road than just normal spray paint
Looks great Nate! Keep the videos going. I've taken some paint classes from basic to tri coat stuff and you're right in the wheelhouse bud! I'd say you got the nail on the head when you talked about prep work.
Every paint has different overcoat window, if you goodle the paint brand name you should be able to download that manufacturers paint datasheet. That sheet will till you the amount of time needed between each coat which varies with temperature. Over coating too soon can prevent the layers from fully curing or can cause porosity because the bottom coat needs time to gas out. Great video, never seen epoxy spray cans before. For something so big like that might be good idea to get cheap little conventional sprayer.
I love the 2k stuff. My go to paint for stuff that will be banged up is Appliance Epoxy paint. You can find it at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, etc. I think it's the hardest spray paint that isn't a 2 part. The downside is it usually only comes in Gloss black. Good video though!
Alot of good tips in this video. There's been a ton of stuff I've learned from you. I have a few suggestions though, I would look into getting a full face respirator to use when painting along with some organic vapor cartridges. Bc even though you wore glasses the fumes and overspray can still get around them and enter your body through your eyes. I know a few paint and body guys and that's what they use when painting and use a mask like the one you wore when doing body work. I depaint aircraft and we are required to use full face masks with organic vapor cartridges. I've also noticed that some higher end shops I've been to and some custom car builders on tv actually use supplied air masks/helmets, so fresh breathing air is actually pumped into the mask/helmet from a source outside the booth or a small filtered unit on a belt that they strap around their waist and also wear coveralls while painting bc like you said it can soak in through skin. I must agree with the others also saying a heater with an open flame wasn't the best thing to be using while painting bc the chance of it lighting off the fumes.
Love the video as always! Something you might want to look into that I think you might really enjoy is Steel-It. It’s a weldable paint and would have been perfect for a project like this if you planned on adding on additional tabs and brackets. A lot of desert guys use the stuff down south and love it!
TMR Customs here in Ontario uses that paint on all their bumpers, truss kits, anything that may require a weld. It coats amazing and the finish looks great.
I was going to suggest steel-it, you beat me to it. We use it in our fab shop on small frames , brackets and guards and I’ll say it’s the next best thing to powder coating. Can’t find it just anywhere but McMaster Carr has it I know. Good stuff. Thanks for the video.
Hey Nate One alternative I came across lately with my local powder coating company is powder coat prime, then you top coat with your desired paint that can easily be recorded. This way you get the quality and durability of sand blast and powder coat and the ability to then add your own top coat that can be recoated anytime it needs a touch up. if you have to add tabs etc later then you clean small spot with a flap disc weld tab on and top coat. You can’t top coat finished powder coat as the material of the coating is not the same as powder coat prime. Powder coat prime is specifically made to be top coated. For top coat I love hammer metal paints and “Steel-it”. Steelit is made with 316 stainless steel and blends perfect with no dry spots over base coat. Great for touch ups.
Seems like this paint is pretty good, I’ve seen others use it on engine bays. I think Napa can mix factory colors and load the cans for you. Not for sure. Seems like it holds up better.
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I will probably post more on this topic than usual since I have been painting for 25 years and in the industry for over 30. Nitrile...NEVER EVER LATEX....you are spot on with that. Warming up the paint is an old painters trick I still do this and some epoxy paints you have to let them sit for 20 minutes before spraying. That paint hit the market a few years ago and I use it also at times. You can actually put different base color in the cans. So lets say you paint your care with PPG and you can actually have the paint store put your paint into an aerosol can and use it later for projectcs.
I really appreciate that you wear PPE and esp gloves all the time, same here!
I can confirm - the "can in the bucket of warm water" definitely works and causes the paint to spray way more evenly. Tanks for the video brother.
My wife is a hard core crafter as is her family. They taught me this years ago and I also can confirm it make a big difference.
it also works for spray foam. Both the great stuff and the two part foam that you get in the foam packs. increases yield up to 50%
When I didn't have easy access to a bucket of hot water I would use a Heat gun to gently heat the can .. always Very careful how hot it was getting and always kept the heat moving.. hairdryer works too in the same way
A trick I just came up with last year when I had to use a bunch of very settled cans of paint was to duct tape the can to a sawzall blade, in my sawzall and I let Milwaukee shake it up. ..it did a fine job .
Not a safety sally at all but one quick note on your respirator, those pink filters are only meant for particulates. They're definitely better than nothing but especially for the solvents in paint and doubly so for hardened paint, I recommend looking into the organic vapor cartridges that work with that mask, 3M# 6001. They also make prefilters for it so that they don't clog as fast.
And a light first coat/tack coat is a good idea, it helps keep your first heavy coat from running
Thank you! I will buy some of those filter today 👍
Agree 100 percent with this post
Great info. I did not know that. Thanks as well.
Craig - I didn't know that either. I use the same filters as Nate, but mainly to keep my buggers metal free! :)
Cyocanates, probably didn't spell that right, are in anything sprayed that has a hardener mixed in they are not filtered out by charcoal filters. The only way to combat them is a fresh air system. The biggest problem is they build over time and are cancer causing. Charcoal only works for particulates.
Looking good Nate - 2K Aerospray for the win!
I'm shopping for some of your stuff right now because of Nate. You guys should do a coupon code. I'd damn near paint my whole jeep with this stuff after seeing this video and the finish he got from it.
need a link to the spay paint
Just wish it was available!
Always learning something new from you! Worked in a body shop for 10 years and never saw the warm bucket of water trick. Love it!
Thanks!
Thumbs up for the Safety concerns. Union safety training. Thank you for the great video!
Pro tip. Box fan with a large 4" thick air filter tapped to the intake side will suck in all the over spray!
Good call 👍
DO NOT THROW SAID FILTER IMMEDIATELY IN THE TRASH.
Sorry for all caps, but warranted in this case. The paint-soaked filter flashes (exothermic reaction) and can catch fire. I found this out when I opened the trashcan to throw away the second filter and was greeted with a Backdraft (1991 movie) type scene (well, to me at least). Luckily I have extinguishers scattered everywhere and only melted some trashbags.
Haha I thought I was the only one who did this! It really improves the garage!
"fired up the heater"
-garage explodes-
"ok, time for the second coat"
Such Beautiful Fabrication
good use of the Harbor freight recalled stands :)
Respirators are very important. What sucks is when I went to buy more filters every store was out. The virus has everyone buying all the masks and filters. Very good vid & info.
I do outside sales for a industrial supply company and that is an issue we are running into also. Our vendors cant even keep anything like that in stock.
I'm a painter, and I definitely agree prepping the job is more important than anything else. And never skimp on primer. I learned that the hard way
Thanks for watching!
First off: love your channel!
Its inspired me to get deeper into nodding my vehicles in a more personal way.
Second it would be awesome if you also painted a test piece and beat it up to see how the paint will hold up if I were throwing gear on the roof rack.
The exhaust from those salamander heaters can cause fish eyes in paint. And explosions with flammable vapors. Your shop is large enough I doubt it would be concentrated enough, guys with small shops need to watch out. Not knocking your work at all, that came out awesome!
Diesel has screwed my eyes out on paint before i was gna comment the same thing
Bro... hes spray painting. He's not a professional body man
Nate
Nice intro for the safety items. One thing I added when I paint is a few box fans with a 20”x20” furnace filter over it. These suck the air where you are spraying and grab the paint particles so you don’t breath them in. Cleans the air. And controls where the particles go. So they are a lot less likely to land on nearby finished projects. Who needs black over spray on their tan Jeep.
Thanks for the Tips! Going to attempt on a Bumper this weekend
After all the safety precautions, I am amazed to see you using two open flame heaters at floor level while spraying in the same area. This is in violation of fire safety codes in all 50 states. Even if the paint itself isn't flammable, the propellant is.
Also, I saw no ventilation equipment running.
I hope you do something to mitigate the chances of injury to yourself and or loss of your shop.
(Fire Investigator, 32 years).
Terry
painted 1/3 of my car with clear 2k paint and its pretty scuff proof ,stunning auto level glass finish , really easy ,i love it ... worth the price i guess cause its not cheap .like 2x $ of regular spray can clear
Nate this was another great video. Really enjoy your videography style. Kudos for the quick safety reminder in the beginning of the video. That is a mark of a true professional. The rack turned out awesome. I was really curious about the Eastwood 2-part paint. I follow their channel as well. This as a more in depth video with the product. Hopefully the Eastwood guys see your video. Would be smart for them to sponsor your channel. Seems like a win-win proposition! Thanks again from a fellow PNW resident!
Well executed
Great video. A good tip also is to use adhesion promoter. After you get all of your prep done as best as possible a couple coats of that really helps your finish product be free from fish eyes and makes the areas that are had to get into that are so common with some projects come out like you are a paint prepping genius!
Thank you for the tip!
The photography really is phenomenal.
Nate I was a professional painter in the Motion Picture Studios for 10 years. this is a great informative video with excellent attention to detail but not so much that you couldn't retain all of the information. Very well done man!!
Thank you very much! That's high praise 👍
good trick to warm up the paint, will try it
Since you went full blown TH-cam. The intros are amazing. Your film work as increased. I can tell you are able to put in a ton more work into these videos. Keep it up boss! Loving the channel thus far.
Thanks! I put alot of hours into this and I love it 👊
Your channel is one of my favorite channels. I came here to ask how you felt about paint vs powder coat... and you answered the question!
Wish I had the tools and the knowledge to do what you do... but in the meantime I'm following for inspiration.
Enjoying your channel too. I second that comment regarding the filters. For paint go with the yellow organic ones. An example is 3M Safety 6001 Low-Maintenance Organic Vapor Cartridge. The magenta ones are a HEPA rated particulate filter for dust. They take out airborne contaminants down to like 0.3 microns. And maybe the MAPP gas can shouldn't be so close to the wood burning stove, LOL. I like to put a box fan in a window blowing the inside air out to create some air movement. Some paint fumes can be explosive as well, so be careful with open flames or hot embers around a build up of some types of paint fumes. Heck, even turning off the lights can create a small spark and cause an explosion from flammable fumes. I'm learning from you, especially the welding videos, so don't blow yourself up.
When painting parts with many different surfaces, go over all of the nooks, crannies, and details like raised letters or bosses, then go back 5-10 min later over everything. Definately wear safety equipment, prep, proper temp and use a tack coat first like Nate mentioned.
I need to start doing this, always run the paint when I try to get the cracks
Another pro tip PAINT THE INSIDE FIRST! Especially on projects like that that you have to reach over or around less likely to bump on scratch your fresh nice paintjob that way
Can’t believe this video came out right when I want to paint my wheels, I think I’ll use this paint for my stock steelies. Amazing production quality! Edit: I didn’t realize how expensive that stuff is. Holy crap that’s like over $100 for all four wheels
Yeah I'm going to get that paint at right on my front bumper but I agree with you on the price
A good little trick for time between coats is to spray a test patch at the same time anything from a bit of extra masking tape to some card anything, and touch it when you think its time if the paint sticks and strings its still to wet wait a little longer until its tacky to the touch but doesn't string reduces, the chances of runs massively
Clear, concise and informative. Your a very talented instructor!
Thank you!
Thank you for starting your video with personal safety equipment items.
dude your videos are amazing. No 'new upload' excites me more than a dirt lifestyle video.
Thanks! I really appreciate it
This is perfect timing, I just built my own roof rack and have been needing to paint it.
Thanks for the safety tips Nate! Good on you for including that.
Edit: be careful with new rattle cans in the hot water, I had one pop the bottom from concave to convex. Didn't blow up but damn near.
I would add Body Seam Sealer to the inside of the rack where the plate is welded to the tubing to seal out dirt and mud, and to make sure rust does not form where the paint cannot reach.
I would also seal the top between stitch welds if it is not weld all along the edge.
The sealer comes in a caulking tube so you can apply it with a common caulking gun.
Do not use Aveco brand caulking because it maybe hardened in the tube. My favorite is 3M brand, but it is about $45 a tube. Napa has good body seam sealer for around $15. I found that one fresh (not hardened in the tub) and very workable.
I bead it on like caulking then squish it in and smooth it out with a finger and clean the excess and mess with lacquer thinner, acetone, or carb cleaner. It can be painted with self etch primer, regular primer, cheap rattle can paint, or two part epoxy paint.
If you decide to a bracket or whatever you can dig out the immediate area to weld with a screw driver or scraper then grind clean your metal and weld. Make sure to re-apply seam sealer to nooks and crannies. I may take a bit of practice to work it but you will have a job that does not start leaking rust from the nooks and crannies.
For funzzies, I laid a bead that ends in a point on one end and fashioned a head on the other end and painted it to look like a snake once the caulking sealer dried. You could also lay a bead in "squirts" to resemble a weld bead. Once you begin playing with it you can get as creative as you allow your mind.
Tack coat is for enamel or slower drying air dried paint layering. The first coat left to tack (for whatever 10 mins) will hold one even opaque thicker layer without running or drooping (fully opaque and glossy) rather than many thinner layers and hours of curing in between. Quality quickly requires a practices touch that takes account of temp and humidity with the paint viscosity balancing act of tradie industrial spraypainters skill set. 👌 Other finishes require different tweeks to leverage the product characteristics with time n quality restraints. Your doing well sharing and demonstrating dinky-die fab shortcuts Nate... on behalf of others watching, thanks for your dedication
definitely the paint in the hot water is a must for spray cans. It allows the paint to be sprayed with finer(smaller) paint molecules. much better finishing job with hot/warm paint over cold.
Just discovered your page and am currently building an 01 Suburban as a mild overlander for camping. I've done hobby welding and fabrication the last 10 years and also have a degree in 3D CAD Modeling. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. This will definitely be a channel I visit often.
I like that you added safety glasses to the painting PPE. A few years back I was at the eye Dr and the optometrist said "have you been painting something blue?". I had paint all over my eyeball from spraying some industrial trailers a few weeks prior. I've been wearing safety glasses 99% of the time in the shop ever since!!
Good job Nate. Eastwood makes good products and 2k products are all I use!!!!
Been prepping an old roof basket for a couple days now and was wondering what to put back on it. Epoxy it is, didn’t even know that product existed so thanks man.
That was a great tutorial on finishing. Heat is absolutely critical to a quality finish, but relative humidity is an important consideration. The woodstove and/ or kero heater achieves both requirements. Methal hydrate is a great wiping product and it leaves no residue on the surface. Thanks.
You may want to reconsider heavier Jack stands for this project, lol. Sweet BUILD, well done!
I dont know if those 6 tons will hold it! haha
😂
Great video again Nate. Good safety tips. I prefer the semi gloss also especially black. I like that epoxy paint. I am going to have to try it.
Good luck finding a respirator anywhere rn. Great video, Nate.
Lol I know man! I ordered one the day this video came out and it keeps getting delayed
another great job, but never paint with an open flame in the shop, the flash-over that occurs will melt the skin off your body before you hit the floor. heat up the room, shut down the flame, paint your project, then open all doors for 2 or 3 minutes ( not enough to cool down the metal) then fire up the heaters again. or get a bomb-proof heating system.
Strongly agree.
Scary stuff!
So pro safety tips
beer, safety glasses, nitro gloves 👍
I need to try the 2 part for sure. I use the black 9 mil gloves from HF on sale 9.99, last much longer, even wrenching, Tip for overspray, small box fan sealed blowing out paint spray, sucking fresh air through a cheap heater filter in a opening on other side of shop. keeps dust from floating around landing on projects.
Nice build. I just finished my roof rack project. I'll definitely have to try that paint for some upcoming projects.
Used epox paint on tug boat and it great stuff but never knew it came in spray can! Going to have to get me some this. Thanks for the video and all the great videos you been putting out, keep up the great work!
Thanks for the tips! I knew most of this, but it's nice to see someone else doing it, to sort of reassure my methods. ;) Good call on the respirator. I usually paint outside if I can. There is always the risk of contaminants in the paint, but the risk to my lungs is much lower. My shop is also under my house, so all the fumes make their way up through the floorboards and nobody likes that. A good box fan or two helps when I have to paint in the garage.
Hey nate...noticed you're using the 5 mil gloves from HF...try the 7mil gloves. Way more durable and you still maintain plenty of dexterity.
Pro tip: use 3m general parts repair , it's a seam sealer and flexible parts filler/repair product, saves a lot of time and has a light flow to it so it smothes out and sands easy!
I cant recommend tractor brush on paint enough. I use it on my rig, you could also spray it with a spray gun. Limited colours, but I buy the satin black and use it on all my chassis stuff from TSC.
i am not a very safe person when i fabricate, but i wouldn't have an open flame heater on with paint fumes are present. better respirator for the iso paints is mandatory, as others have said. good video. we all don't know what we don't know
I freaking love your intro music! Keep up the good work!
you can buy raptor liner bed liner in the same can where you mix the epoxy and it sprays out amazing you should try it out
That stuff looks great!
I love the body filler tip. Maybe you can put something on those jack stands to prevent scratching your new paint.
With runs on a job like that I found tape works great, test a piece off 6-10 inches, use the stocky side and roll it up the run. The motion it kinda like rolling a slinky, you only ever have about 1/2 inch of tape touching at a time.
Your worried about over spray on your camera, its settled on everything in your shop. I take 2 cheap box fans, tape some air furnace filters to them and place them under my garage door, I have some cardboard I close in the rest of the gaps under my door. This pulls most of the over spray out of my shop. I still use a respirator though, but this helps keep the shop things clean.
Good info! Hope your commitment to this channel is paying off for you....love your content!
Thank you!
You should check out steel-it paint. I have never used it myself but have heard it’s great. It’s spray paint but it’s claimed you can weld right over it without taking the paint off. They use it in Baja
Another great video can’t wait for what’s next ! Great job
just to add something the warm also raises the pressure of the bottle and it makes it more efficient specialy when it is half or less
I always use a coat of clear coat. Definitely adds to the durability
Glad you did this video and with the paint that you used, I have been looking at this and wondering how it is. I will be watching to see how it does after a few months. Great job
Yes for sure 2 part epoxy primers & paints are harder, also are less susceptible to stains or damage from fluids such as fuel, hyd fluid, lubricants, ect. As with aircraft paints , there is usually a 15-30 min dwell time, after mixing / before application
Dwell time? In the boating industry we call it shaking hands . Mix the paint and let it shake hands for 30 minutes. We also try to heat up the hull before shooting.
That's interesting they make the epoxy paint in a spray can as well. Right now I have my tj all apart painting my frame in por15 which is suppose to an epoxy or hardening paint. Cant wait to see how that paint holds bc that could save me doing some touch ups later down the road than just normal spray paint
Looks great Nate! Keep the videos going.
I've taken some paint classes from basic to tri coat stuff and you're right in the wheelhouse bud!
I'd say you got the nail on the head when you talked about prep work.
Thank you!
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Have a great day!
Napa carries a 2k clear and top coat. For those in the pnw that want good paint in a rattle can.
Every paint has different overcoat window, if you goodle the paint brand name you should be able to download that manufacturers paint datasheet. That sheet will till you the amount of time needed between each coat which varies with temperature. Over coating too soon can prevent the layers from fully curing or can cause porosity because the bottom coat needs time to gas out. Great video, never seen epoxy spray cans before. For something so big like that might be good idea to get cheap little conventional sprayer.
Goodle lol
I love the 2k stuff. My go to paint for stuff that will be banged up is Appliance Epoxy paint. You can find it at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, etc. I think it's the hardest spray paint that isn't a 2 part. The downside is it usually only comes in Gloss black. Good video though!
Thanks Nate good video, awesome craftsmanship it doesn’t even look home made at all in fact I doubt you’d be able to buy a nicer rack anywhere!
Thank you very much!
Alot of good tips in this video. There's been a ton of stuff I've learned from you. I have a few suggestions though, I would look into getting a full face respirator to use when painting along with some organic vapor cartridges. Bc even though you wore glasses the fumes and overspray can still get around them and enter your body through your eyes. I know a few paint and body guys and that's what they use when painting and use a mask like the one you wore when doing body work. I depaint aircraft and we are required to use full face masks with organic vapor cartridges. I've also noticed that some higher end shops I've been to and some custom car builders on tv actually use supplied air masks/helmets, so fresh breathing air is actually pumped into the mask/helmet from a source outside the booth or a small filtered unit on a belt that they strap around their waist and also wear coveralls while painting bc like you said it can soak in through skin. I must agree with the others also saying a heater with an open flame wasn't the best thing to be using while painting bc the chance of it lighting off the fumes.
very cool i would like to have you build a custom rack for my grand Cherokee.
Love the video as always! Something you might want to look into that I think you might really enjoy is Steel-It. It’s a weldable paint and would have been perfect for a project like this if you planned on adding on additional tabs and brackets. A lot of desert guys use the stuff down south and love it!
We used that same kind of paint in the military for touch ups on jets
I concur! Great job Nate. 💪
Great video. I've been wanting to try the Eastwood products. Keep up the great work.
Little Puddy A Little paint makes a welder what he ain't .. 🤣 Just Pickin
Nate, have you looked into Steel-It paint? Its stainless steel in a can and it’s weldable. Never used it myself but have only heard good things.
TMR Customs here in Ontario uses that paint on all their bumpers, truss kits, anything that may require a weld. It coats amazing and the finish looks great.
I've heard good things but I haven't used it 👍
I was going to suggest steel-it, you beat me to it. We use it in our fab shop on small frames , brackets and guards and I’ll say it’s the next best thing to powder coating. Can’t find it just anywhere but McMaster Carr has it I know. Good stuff. Thanks for the video.
Tha is for the tips! Amazing video as always sir!
Hey Nate
One alternative I came across lately with my local powder coating company is powder coat prime, then you top coat with your desired paint that can easily be recorded. This way you get the quality and durability of sand blast and powder coat and the ability to then add your own top coat that can be recoated anytime it needs a touch up. if you have to add tabs etc later then you clean small spot with a flap disc weld tab on and top coat.
You can’t top coat finished powder coat as the material of the coating is not the same as powder coat prime. Powder coat prime is specifically made to be top coated.
For top coat I love hammer metal paints and “Steel-it”. Steelit is made with 316 stainless steel and blends perfect with no dry spots over base coat. Great for touch ups.
I need to start doing that warm bucket trick, also a lot of good tips in the comments!
Another great one excited for the next upload already ha 😁👍 liking that new paint hmm gonna have to look into that
Wew I am early on this one! Just want to say the production quality on your videos is 🔥🔥 keep it up!
Thank you!
This is by far my favorite channel. Love the intro
Thanks!
Great video and good info. Thanks
I dig the new intro
Really like your how to Videos.
Thanks man 👊
Seems like this paint is pretty good, I’ve seen others use it on engine bays. I think Napa can mix factory colors and load the cans for you. Not for sure. Seems like it holds up better.
That was awesome!!! I don’t do half those things when I’m painting and now I know why my jobs never get the finish I want. Thank you so much 👊🏻
No problem! I'm happy to help!
not gonna lie you make it look easy... im damn good at making paint run haha
That looks really good.....I would have to put some big old kc Daylights with the yellow covers 😁😁😁😁
I like the east wood, 2k ceramic Chassis Black paint. It's sum tough paint holds up very well in the northeast regional winters.
That thing looks pretty sweet man
Self serve sand blasting is awesome too...if one is available.