This is the best site on YT for professional automotive paint. Period. Many years ago when I was starting out I was told " If you can feel it youll see it". Great quote to remember. Thanks Chuck R.I.P.
Brian, I think you are always overthinking the paint. But that's how you keep improving. The way that you have improved is from thinking about the paint and conditions. All good painters are constantly trying to improve. It's part of a good life, learning new and better ways of doing a job. Good painters add quality to life.
There's a lot to know when spraying cars. But, I think the biggest key to becoming a great painter is just doing it... a lot. Prep is super important and meticulous. But that's jsut part of it. Knowing your equipment and your product is key to getting that consistent output. Therein lies the problem for a weekend warrior like myself that paints his own stuff once or twice a year. Every time a new paint project comes up, it's like relearning everything all over again. Thats why your videos are so important to me. I'm so stubborn and frugal that I'd rather just paint my own stuff because I just don't want to risk paying somebody that's gonna do a crappy job. Even if the cost is close to the same, by the time I buy all the stuff and some equipment. If I do a crappy job, well, I can blame myself. If somebody else does a crappy job, I feel like an ogre if I have to have them fix it. Because in the end, I know how much work it is to actually do this kind of work well. Has anybody bought automotive paint lately? My goodness, it's expensive.
I love the video! I’m just getting into paint at my job. Told them I’d leave if I don’t get into paint. Right now I’m in prep. I get to paint each Friday. We paint aluminum fishing boats and do 1 boat a day. We use sata 5500 at 20 psi. When I get into paint I’ll be a second generation painter.
Shadetree machanic here. I love watching you work and talk through what you're doing. Even though I only have a couple fender repairs to paint this summer, after I watch your videos I find myself wanting to do a whole car, it looks so cool. I don't know how many hours I've spent watching your tutorials, way more than I need to I'm sure, but they just draw me in. Thanks.
Don’t be so hard on yourself. I have learned so much from your vids and just finished my first panel painting on my 2002 Intrepid in my garage at home. You inspired me and gave me the confidence to do it. Big Thank You.
I really enjoy watching these videos. I went to voc tech school 2000-01 painted in body shops until 05 and switched careers but i watch these to keep in the loop of things 👍
Hey brother I just want you to know that every video you are putting 🎉 out is like a blessing and graciously received! I've been restoring old cars for over 20yrs now and while I love the cars...the truth is I've been exactly where you explained many times over that period! What I was blessed with as far as being a natural doing metal shaping, bodywork, bodyfill, and being able to create a perfectly straight surface ready for paint...is offset by the struggles I've had with a paint gun in my hand!!! Got to the point where people have said, heck I don't know why you're making them so perfect getting them ready, you're still going to lay oranges down! 😔and they were right unfortunately! I just got used to laying extra clear etc.. knowing that I was going to have to wet sand it flat and buff it to what I wanted. Made a ton of extra work for myself over the years doing that but now I can look back and clearly see where I had some disadvantages and why the scenario took the shape it did. The reason I got so good at all the bodywork processes...was because I had a ton of practice! It takes weeks, months, and even years at times...to work a car body; during that time I might spray epoxy primer which is thick, polyester filler primer..which is SUPER thick, 2k primer sealer/surfacer which is closer to paint consistency, then base/single stage. Now, honestly I've never really had a huge problem laying down base paints...even metallics, silvers, pearls... seemed like they always came out very decent; and that's where the trouble began! Clearcoat has been an issue for me since day 1! I was either running it or laying texture, and sometimes both depending on the car lol! When I first started I had a Sata 90 & I DID get where I could lay clear etc down very good with that gun; but it would be like the London fog when I was done! 45-50 psi was putting it out👀. Next gun was devilbiss finish line (HVLP) and boy did I struggle! The combination of never really having enough gun time, and this new style gun that just felt like it was spitting it on...in HATED it! That gun became a primer gun for the rest of it's days! After a few years I got a devilbiss Tekna copper that had the needle/tip set for base 1.3, and another set 1.4, for the clear. I did a little better with it for sure...but to this day I still struggle! A friend of mine works for an aircraft company and sprays paint all day though an Iwata lh400. He has so much gun time that he is light years ahead of me. He raved and raved about how great the iwata gun was so I said bring it by, I'll try it! What's it going to hurt?! 😳For the first time I layed clear down like glass and thought...😃OH MY GOD, I FOUND THE GUN I NEED!... well, couple minutes later the entire panel looked like a giant run...BUT, I really do think it might help me. I could tell that it was much better at laying the material down (atomizing) too! One thing I can say is that it at least opened my eyes to how different and better some of these new guns are! I'm going to try a couple more and come to a decision on which one to purchase. Especially after my friend has said how great it was..
@@Spiritof_76I don't know how to respond to that...I guess when I feel inspired enough to say something I go for it. What Brian said in the video resonated with me 100%... recently in fact! Much to the entire theme of the channel...don't overthink things! Well, when you have issues come up that warrant a redo because of small incidental things ...it lends to the inner conversation where you say...ok, pull it together and focus! Then you're absolutely overthinking things and nothing good can transpire. We've all been there, Brian created the theme, "it's just paint" because of the struggle; and knowing that this game really is about (being in the right mindset) when it's go time. Not uptight or rigid, but rather one of relaxed flow! Getting the mind there when you're stressed is easier said than done but knowing and definitely (having confidence in your paint gun) helps tremendously! Speaking of which... I'm about to spray some clear coat now, wish me luck 😁! One thing you said that was absolutely true even though frustrations come along... quitting is really never an option! Thanks for the inspiration and information once again Brian; and to my brother here in spirit... Sorry for the long wind, but ... this is how we learn! 🤷
@KevTech 1 You just learned a valuable lesson from a very talented individual!! It's called PERFECTION. A lot of restorations look just as good underneath the car as on top. Especially if you or your customer is going to enter car shows! I guess I had better quit for now, I feel like a novel is about to begin. If any of you are out to Montana, Your all welcome at my campfire!! Peace my friends. Montana Rick.
Wanting to hurry and get to the next coat or the next step is something I caught myself doing and needed to fix. So I started doing the same thing you mentioned...setting a timer. And walking away and doing another task. Sticking with the same good quality gun helps when you are starting out. Learning how that gun sounds at 30 psi(for example) figuring out what settings work for you, and not juggling 20 different guns.
I have been watching your videos for at least 4 years.. I just paint in my garage and do full body paint jobs. Not insurance jobs.. but I enjoy watching your vids because I like hearing your advice and seeing if they match up with my thoughts!
On my base blends, if I have an area that’s getting a dry edge but I can’t really get a good wet edge because it’s hot or my reducer isn’t slow enough, I take in another gun with reducer only in it. I will blend back into it with reducer only, or if I have an “intercoat clear” available in the paint line, I will use that to blend the color as well so I have a nice soft wet edge that you can’t detect at all once you’ve cleared it. Kind of a shade tree technique born out of necessity and frustration with tri coats mostly.
Can you make a video about sanding blocks? The difference between the flexible...rubber... rigid ..foam blocks and in which circumstances to use them. Can it be possible to slow a already fast reducer ? Great work. Thank you
Maaannnn..about a 2 months ago after glossing black the rear view mirrors on my 2007 jeep grand Cherokee I started looking for some videos on bright silver blending right.. out of all the videos for me your my #1 pick bro... you got me so pumped up I've been ordering spray cans and clear coats left and right 😂.. making tons of mistakes..but like you say.. DON'T OVER THINK IT, IT'S JUST PAINT. I appreciate you and your videos Brian ✌️
Man speaks the truth about the microfibers bleeding. Did a tri stage Subaru and the yellow microfiber bled all over my blend area! I buy exclusively white microfibers and searched them up by price and including white in the search.
Thanks Brian, for the years of excellent content! Your demonstration skills, production quality, and casual delivery have become top notch. I always enjoy your collaboration projects, it's cool to see different techniques come together to achieve a flawless finish. I hope you and your beautiful family have a relaxing Memorial Day!
I had a finishing detail contract for some dealerships, and a auto painter father son team. They also painted for a local Lexus dealership they did such phenomenal work and I’ve never been able to find anyone competent enough to do that level of work since. That was in 96. Thinking I need to paint my own cars. In 2002 I had my jeep painted. He told me what he was going to do it sucked so bad I doubt two pubic hairs in the paint…. Best described wilted orange peel. I want to paint my Land Cruiser a solid white without a clearcoat. so I can buff out the Arizona pinstripe when I go off road.
If your ground coat 1st layer doesn’t match the tri coat will never look right. Another older painter showed us with the white tris, Take some steps back and look at your spray out or the variant card cause the further you walk back the pearl has less of a effect on what you are seeing. We had a lot issues with the ground coats not matching and cause a lot of repaints. Since we started doing this we have a lot more success. Love your work brother and keep slinging paint
I have a car that needs paint, UV fade and vinyl graphics and a respray of the hood was done that faded x2. 17 years and it is time. Finding someone that takes the job like you do is hard. I don't expect perfection. I just want to as I walk away from the car and look back again at it like I used to. I don't know anyone in my immediate area and every collision shop says they can do but that Hood Respray has me weary. He should have gone over the top of the fenders with the hood and the fade would have not been so noticeable standing around the car. Great Video as always.
I REALLY despise spraying white vehicles ESPECIALLY tri coats! Scuffed White is like a sponge it will absorb dirt , smudges etc. It just SUCKS! But it’s part of the job sometimes. Great video Brian.
Something that takes a long time to get ahold of is comparing variant formulas and knowing how to judge by the toners in it. If you can see the differences in metallics and hues it will save a lot of time doing cards. It might be a difficult topic for a video but maybe something to consider
Thank you for those tips such as look it over. Look with a discerning eye for tape lose. I will be painting one side of my Silverado. Those tips are good to remember.
10:30 In any process, whether it be baking, manufacturing, chemistry, assembling a Subway sandwich, etc, consistency in following instructions is often the most important key to good results. So yes, using a smartphone (or other) timer is a great suggestion. You cannot improve a process if you're not consistent in performing the process.
On my white paint jobs , instead of the thinner trick to get rid of smudges , i spray the panel down with waterborne cleaner . While it’s wet , i use 1500 sandpaper and just go over the blend panel real light and then wipe clean . It’s does a great job , it’s quick ,and really doesn’t count as an extra step because I’m cleaning it before paint anyway .
I was lambasted in a paint forum many years ago for using lacquer thinner to clean a panel. You said to use it to clean, so what is the right answer when it comes to lacquer thinner? Love your videos, I have done body work as a hobby for many years, but your videos gave me the confidence to shoot my first base/clear paint job, metallic no less! Turned out pretty darn good for a rookie.
U use it to clean the smudges n black markings on ur blends that a solvent base cleaner may not get rid of on its own. It only applies to whites cause those smudges cannot be seen in any other color
Oh the Auto body trade.....Ya gotta love it! It seems the same where ever your working. I am sure you have heard these before. Usually thursday/ friday.,.. "ITS GOTTA GO ITS GOTTA GO TODAY!! Or don't you just love after a paint job then you here the body tech come over and say, hey I messed something up can you look at this!! I have been in the business for 40 years, I have seen it all. You my friend have so many more fun times ahead of you. I wish you the best and stay healthy working around all the chemicals. One last thing, Don't get into spraying airplanes, trust me!! Peace and prosperity my brother. Montana Rick.
I must not have my coat wet enuf at times. I always get some overspray on big flat hoods. Thanks for all your vids. I,m using them to refresh my hobby.
Hey Brian. I have a problem waiting for the flash time. I'm going to set my phone like you did. Shop at work is very dusty, So the faster I can lay down all my coats the better. It's cool when I can take $1,000 2014 car from the auction that's totaled stretch it rework it plastic and paint it and put it out front of my bosses shop for $12,000 doing it all myself
Oh man that looks good! I used to paint with high pressure pump gun, white window frames and steel doors, after half a day you couldn’t tell what was wet or not. Snow blind big time. Was a shock to mix paint by the buckets and not just for paint gun. Boat gelcoats and spray laminate was my next “painting” job. Dont know how many tons I have sprayed over the years. Now it’s jus occasionally car panel or motorcycle fairing to be sprayed. Still love to paint, there is something really rewarding about it.
Stuff happens... I did an overall on a 96 Mustang rag top. I used a different clear and added urethane reducer to it (I usually do). A month later it will "fingerprint" and it quickly plugs up my wet sandpaper. What a doofus I am!😆
Funny, i just sprayed an older white Honda civic yesterday and i was gonna take my color all the way and butt match it cause the amount of lil smudges n nicks n scratches that were on my blends then i remembered Brian's thinner trick, and it obviously worked perfectly and saved my blends. Also i did notice in the video when you mask theres some areas of exposed tape, imo that's where dust n dirt can get stuck too and land back on the job when you go to clear it.
Brian, love your videos, used them a lot for inspiration. A tip unrelated to painting, set your camera up on manual focus to avoid these clips that are blurry and the camera is hunting focus.
Hi. I just got a new camera and it has been a big change. The newer videos are much better once I learned how to control the focus. It’s a big change from the go pro.
Im no shrinking vilet when it comes to wrenching on a car. I have done everything on my project car, but paint. the last paint job that was done had water marks, haze, and i just didnt like it. Your video series has given me the confidence to strip and do my car now. epoxy in a few hours!
Sometimes you simply cannot know whether to hire a pro or DIY until after you choose and see the results. The pro has the experience but may not have the passion, as they aren't working on their own stuff. The DIY has the pride and the passion, but not the experience to avoid mistakes. (obviously there are some pros and DIY whose skills and pride fall into the opposite camp)
@@furyfantoo I agree. For me there is a catharsis to doing it myself. The journey so to speak, is valuable to me. I like digging around, learning new stuff, making mistakes and fixing them...Yesterday it was trying to dial my gun and coatings in for the environmental conditions while applying 2k high build primer....Im going to get some trigger time on my beer fridge and riding lawn mower!
I fine that the hardest thing is to not rush….I use my phone as well, but I’m just a hobbyist. The struggle of feeling like you have to go nonstop 200mph is real.
Love this, As someone that possibly did graffiti, I feel like I see how some running is happening from time to time... the distance of the gun, and the edge treatment, made my brain fire off... I think if you and your team went and tried writing in "flared" letters (on some scrap with some rattle cans), yall would have a fun (learning) experience, about "can control", which is a tone of nozzle work/distance and speed.... it's serious sht.
Your editing and criteria have become very impressive brian.. much respect 🙏 for your time and energy! Have you ever fell in the booth? Every painter has a few stories.
Brian, have you ever noticed when you run the clear coat it seems to disorientate the basecoat, especially with heavy metallics, or basecoats where the pearl is mixed in with the basecoat as in many HOK products? It appears to me that after sanding out the run, or drape, dependent on how talented I was at overapplying the clear, I can no longer see or feel the run, but I can see the basecoat is irreparably changed and shows that change apparently from the run, if a person knows when, where, and how to look for it. Or, have I had the wrong filters in my respirator and have become mentally "damaged"?
I use a sandwich bag over hand to really feel paint surface condition/imperfections. I know it sounds counterintuitive. Let me know if it increases sensitivity for you. Any concerns that some existing finishes may react badly to lacquer thinner?
It's not a glamorous job being a spraypainter putting up with crazy customers ungrateful bosses poisonous chemicals but when the spraypainting gods are smiling no better feeling than a job thats comes out good and to be proud of
Brian, my clear is drying to fast and not flowing, I'm using slow hardener, Matrix Edge MH-78S Clear, my booth is not the best and it's hot, any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks man, Dennis in Geneva FL.
I noticed you always start from the bottom of the panel and work your way up when spraying. Same with hood, start outside and spray to middle. Is there a reason to do it that way or just your preference? I always sprayed top to bottom and middle of hood out. I'm just an amateur DIY painter with average results. Just wondering if i have been doing it wrong all these years.
Depends on repair & type of booth, downdraft cross-flow etc. Keeping a wet edge is the most important. Also, vehicle large hood & painter has short reach? Some of it is painter habit. I switch it up depending on situation. Painting is very common sense & thinking several steps ahead
On wheels do you clean anyhow the primed surface, or you just paint it. See I primed one side of the wheel (internal), and in many places the prime (I used Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer) was like a layer of chalk. I wiped it out, it was a lot, like a thick layer of dust. Then I just washed that wheel. The primer adhere to some parts (best where there was a bare metal), but not everywhere where is was painted surface. I think maybe I should just go over that primed surface w/paint, so together they would adhere, or I did something wrong. The primer is for Metal and Fiberglass surfaces. When you touch that primed surface, should it stay on your fingers or not? I would appreciate any opinion on this matter, I googled and nothing about it. I know you use application of Glass Cleaner before and between layers of paint, but is it mandatory? The wheels are not aluminum, they got a bit rusted, I removed that rust, prepared surface, but smth went wrong w/Primer, I think. Thank you for this detailed film.
HI , Brian you are great keep doing what you do its really entertaining and educational. Would you make a video as a guide to falow step by step for the best results , Please. All the best man
Brian, do you have a video on when you should and shouldn't let off the trigger while painting? Is the answer different for primer, paint, or clear? Thanks!
Hey I had a question. I want to learn how to use actual paint stuff not just spray cans, but the only air compressor I could get my hands on is only a 5 gallon, 5.0 scfm@40 psi/3.8 sfcm@90 psi. Is that good enough for painting, especially car parts?
What is recommended for a Good flexible primer sealer for plastic bumpers? I have the Seymour PBE Flexible Primer and SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer and they work GREAT! but im looking for Primer Sealers out of a can that I can use next... Either a 1k or 2k but definitely prefer a 2k can that either is activated by moisture in the air, or has a 2 part chamber system inside the can... Any recommendations!
@@teagan9184 ill have to try that... I know Speedokote T-Rex Bite Kote has also the same adhesion promoter and Primer 2-in-1 product as well AND IT SAYS SEALER!!! I just noticed! And I should be able to go over my SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer now that I have the Primer Surfacer scuffed up with 420 grit Yes? I might actually go over the Surfacer 1 more Time with a 500 grit since I am doing a silver metallic paint but 1st time using the SEM and PBE Flexible Primer products, so not quite sure yet how much they will shrink so figured the 500 Grit would just be a safer bet, even though these are Urethane based flexible Primers im assuming (and NOT a Flexible Polyester Primer, which is more prone to the shrinkage as we all know!) So I should be good... And there are definitely others I know of too just not at the top of my head right now for Sealer Primers, like I said its just the FLEXIBLE SEALERS that are hard to find along with FLEXIBLE CLEAR out of a Can! (Im finding plenty of Base Coat Paints in a can specifically made with flexible agents in them for Bumpers, but the Flexible Primer Sealers and Flexible Clears in a Can seem to be very few and hard to find!!!... I do like the fact that if USING Ocean or UPol (many others) that have the high density flexible filler in BLACK used over black plastic bumpers the clear would be Great if doing Dark Paint jobs that require a Black base and black sealer for less product waste and being able to conserve somewhat on product... But what I'm tryin to find is not an adhesion promoter and Flexible Primer/Primer Surfacer, but a FLEXIBLE SEALER! That Bulldog is not actually considered a Flexible Sealer but a Clear Flexible Adhesion Promoter/Primer correct?
I am reading that it is highly recommended not to paint basecoat over clearcoat. I have watched many of your videos and you do this on a regular basis. The text says that the basecoat will eventually peal away from the underlying clear and the recommended procedure is to remove all clearcoat. What is your opinion on this?
@@PaintSociety I am learning, so please bear with me. Paint from factory is primer, basecoat, clearcoat. When you are fixing damage and blending you are roughing the clear and blending in basecoat on top of the factory clearcoat. This is what I am talking about, everything I can find says never apply basecoat over clearcoat because it will later peel.
I'm looking for good painter to paint the hood, roof and bumper in Central Florida area. Don't want to take my car to high-production or too expensive shops. Anyone recommended?
Hey Brian, great video! Been a ws400 guy for years. Do you think Sagola is a better gun than WS? Been very interested in those but no reps in my area have them to try out. Thanks
love the content from Brian and his channel! can i get some guidance on my first paintjob? i dont have a big compressor so I am using an LVLP gun. the subject is an 87 4Runner, not including the top. I will most likely be painting in the early part of the AM and outside, as no access to a booth or covered garage. where should i start my spray? should i walk the sides or just carry the spray over the gaps into the next panels?
Hi mate, I have been watching your videos for a while now and my question is why don’t you start from the middle of the bonnet or the roof and work your way towards the side.That way you reduce the risk of touching wet paint or contaminate the side panels.
Can you help me? I'm going to paint my camaro from bare metal. Should I use a DTM high build dealer 1st? I'm just curious what steps I should use. Thank you if you see this.
Slow down you will go faster in the end. Have you done a video of a blend of a tri coat white pearl that is a bit yellower don't remember the code but I had one that I didn't like but the customer was fine with it.
I see it all the time using air sanders to wet sand yes I know that saves time but I learns old school from my dad in the 80s when sanding you need to feel the surface take towel and close your eyes and just wipe the panels you will feel imperfections in the surface it's wierd but it's true and it works so I have 2cordless frinderbuffers 1ACDelco 20volt and the other it's little brothers knockoff from harbor freight 12v I've bought hook and loop up to 10,000 but I don't trust them I would rather put my trust in me.
This is the best site on YT for professional automotive paint. Period. Many years ago when I was starting out I was told " If you can feel it youll see it". Great quote to remember. Thanks Chuck R.I.P.
Brian, I think you are always overthinking the paint. But that's how you keep improving. The way that you have improved is from thinking about the paint and conditions. All good painters are constantly trying to improve. It's part of a good life, learning new and better ways of doing a job. Good painters add quality to life.
That actually makes perfect sense! Thanks for the comment. I’ll overthink it so you guys don’t have to lol
😂ok..
AAA ALWAYS ACCEPT ADVICE 👌
There's a lot to know when spraying cars. But, I think the biggest key to becoming a great painter is just doing it... a lot. Prep is super important and meticulous. But that's jsut part of it. Knowing your equipment and your product is key to getting that consistent output.
Therein lies the problem for a weekend warrior like myself that paints his own stuff once or twice a year. Every time a new paint project comes up, it's like relearning everything all over again. Thats why your videos are so important to me. I'm so stubborn and frugal that I'd rather just paint my own stuff because I just don't want to risk paying somebody that's gonna do a crappy job. Even if the cost is close to the same, by the time I buy all the stuff and some equipment. If I do a crappy job, well, I can blame myself. If somebody else does a crappy job, I feel like an ogre if I have to have them fix it. Because in the end, I know how much work it is to actually do this kind of work well.
Has anybody bought automotive paint lately? My goodness, it's expensive.
Thank you so much Brian! I've been a bodyman for 16yrs and I really want to start painting. Your videos are a huge blessing.🙏
I love the video! I’m just getting into paint at my job. Told them I’d leave if I don’t get into paint. Right now I’m in prep. I get to paint each Friday. We paint aluminum fishing boats and do 1 boat a day. We use sata 5500 at 20 psi. When I get into paint I’ll be a second generation painter.
Shadetree machanic here. I love watching you work and talk through what you're doing. Even though I only have a couple fender repairs to paint this summer, after I watch your videos I find myself wanting to do a whole car, it looks so cool. I don't know how many hours I've spent watching your tutorials, way more than I need to I'm sure, but they just draw me in. Thanks.
Don’t be so hard on yourself. I have learned so much from your vids and just finished my first panel painting on my 2002 Intrepid in my garage at home. You inspired me and gave me the confidence to do it. Big Thank You.
I really enjoy watching these videos. I went to voc tech school 2000-01 painted in body shops until 05 and switched careers but i watch these to keep in the loop of things 👍
Hey brother I just want you to know that every video you are putting 🎉 out is like a blessing and graciously received! I've been restoring old cars for over 20yrs now and while I love the cars...the truth is I've been exactly where you explained many times over that period! What I was blessed with as far as being a natural doing metal shaping, bodywork, bodyfill, and being able to create a perfectly straight surface ready for paint...is offset by the struggles I've had with a paint gun in my hand!!! Got to the point where people have said, heck I don't know why you're making them so perfect getting them ready, you're still going to lay oranges down! 😔and they were right unfortunately! I just got used to laying extra clear etc.. knowing that I was going to have to wet sand it flat and buff it to what I wanted. Made a ton of extra work for myself over the years doing that but now I can look back and clearly see where I had some disadvantages and why the scenario took the shape it did. The reason I got so good at all the bodywork processes...was because I had a ton of practice! It takes weeks, months, and even years at times...to work a car body; during that time I might spray epoxy primer which is thick, polyester filler primer..which is SUPER thick, 2k primer sealer/surfacer which is closer to paint consistency, then base/single stage. Now, honestly I've never really had a huge problem laying down base paints...even metallics, silvers, pearls... seemed like they always came out very decent; and that's where the trouble began! Clearcoat has been an issue for me since day 1! I was either running it or laying texture, and sometimes both depending on the car lol! When I first started I had a Sata 90 & I DID get where I could lay clear etc down very good with that gun; but it would be like the London fog when I was done! 45-50 psi was putting it out👀. Next gun was devilbiss finish line (HVLP) and boy did I struggle! The combination of never really having enough gun time, and this new style gun that just felt like it was spitting it on...in HATED it! That gun became a primer gun for the rest of it's days! After a few years I got a devilbiss Tekna copper that had the needle/tip set for base 1.3, and another set 1.4, for the clear. I did a little better with it for sure...but to this day I still struggle! A friend of mine works for an aircraft company and sprays paint all day though an Iwata lh400. He has so much gun time that he is light years ahead of me. He raved and raved about how great the iwata gun was so I said bring it by, I'll try it! What's it going to hurt?! 😳For the first time I layed clear down like glass and thought...😃OH MY GOD, I FOUND THE GUN I NEED!... well, couple minutes later the entire panel looked like a giant run...BUT, I really do think it might help me. I could tell that it was much better at laying the material down (atomizing) too! One thing I can say is that it at least opened my eyes to how different and better some of these new guns are! I'm going to try a couple more and come to a decision on which one to purchase. Especially after my friend has said how great it was..
I feel like we are only as good as our tools. Nowadays the technology is crazy!
How did you write all that without a "see more" a few lines in? That's a lot of lines of text.
@@Spiritof_76I don't know how to respond to that...I guess when I feel inspired enough to say something I go for it. What Brian said in the video resonated with me 100%... recently in fact! Much to the entire theme of the channel...don't overthink things! Well, when you have issues come up that warrant a redo because of small incidental things ...it lends to the inner conversation where you say...ok, pull it together and focus! Then you're absolutely overthinking things and nothing good can transpire. We've all been there, Brian created the theme, "it's just paint" because of the struggle; and knowing that this game really is about (being in the right mindset) when it's go time. Not uptight or rigid, but rather one of relaxed flow! Getting the mind there when you're stressed is easier said than done but knowing and definitely (having confidence in your paint gun) helps tremendously! Speaking of which... I'm about to spray some clear coat now, wish me luck 😁! One thing you said that was absolutely true even though frustrations come along... quitting is really never an option! Thanks for the inspiration and information once again Brian; and to my brother here in spirit... Sorry for the long wind, but ... this is how we learn! 🤷
@KevTech 1 You just learned a valuable lesson from a very talented individual!! It's called PERFECTION. A lot of restorations look just as good underneath the car as on top. Especially if you or your customer is going to enter car shows! I guess I had better quit for now, I feel like a novel is about to begin. If any of you are out to Montana, Your all welcome at my campfire!! Peace my friends. Montana Rick.
Wanting to hurry and get to the next coat or the next step is something I caught myself doing and needed to fix. So I started doing the same thing you mentioned...setting a timer. And walking away and doing another task.
Sticking with the same good quality gun helps when you are starting out. Learning how that gun sounds at 30 psi(for example) figuring out what settings work for you, and not juggling 20 different guns.
I have been watching your videos for at least 4 years.. I just paint in my garage and do full body paint jobs. Not insurance jobs.. but I enjoy watching your vids because I like hearing your advice and seeing if they match up with my thoughts!
Thanks Steven for being a long time supporter
On my base blends, if I have an area that’s getting a dry edge but I can’t really get a good wet edge because it’s hot or my reducer isn’t slow enough, I take in another gun with reducer only in it. I will blend back into it with reducer only, or if I have an “intercoat clear” available in the paint line, I will use that to blend the color as well so I have a nice soft wet edge that you can’t detect at all once you’ve cleared it. Kind of a shade tree technique born out of necessity and frustration with tri coats mostly.
Can you make a video about sanding blocks? The difference between the flexible...rubber... rigid ..foam blocks and in which circumstances to use them. Can it be possible to slow a already fast reducer ? Great work. Thank you
Maaannnn..about a 2 months ago after glossing black the rear view mirrors on my 2007 jeep grand Cherokee I started looking for some videos on bright silver blending right.. out of all the videos for me your my #1 pick bro... you got me so pumped up I've been ordering spray cans and clear coats left and right 😂.. making tons of mistakes..but like you say.. DON'T OVER THINK IT, IT'S JUST PAINT. I appreciate you and your videos Brian ✌️
Thanks so much for the love and watching my videos !!
Man speaks the truth about the microfibers bleeding. Did a tri stage Subaru and the yellow microfiber bled all over my blend area! I buy exclusively white microfibers and searched them up by price and including white in the search.
Which is funny because I left the same comment in 1 of his videos and many people called me crazy.
@@mikhailSRT4 I'm "crazy" for using them to my coworkers. At least the Internet has mostly opened minded weirdos.
Thanks Brian, for the years of excellent content! Your demonstration skills, production quality, and casual delivery have become top notch. I always enjoy your collaboration projects, it's cool to see different techniques come together to achieve a flawless finish. I hope you and your beautiful family have a relaxing Memorial Day!
I had a finishing detail contract for some dealerships, and a auto painter father son team. They also painted for a local Lexus dealership they did such phenomenal work and I’ve never been able to find anyone competent enough to do that level of work since. That was in 96. Thinking I need to paint my own cars. In 2002 I had my jeep painted. He told me what he was going to do it sucked so bad I doubt two pubic hairs in the paint…. Best described wilted orange peel. I want to paint my Land Cruiser a solid white without a clearcoat. so I can buff out the Arizona pinstripe when I go off road.
If your ground coat 1st layer doesn’t match the tri coat will never look right. Another older painter showed us with the white tris, Take some steps back and look at your spray out or the variant card cause the further you walk back the pearl has less of a effect on what you are seeing. We had a lot issues with the ground coats not matching and cause a lot of repaints. Since we started doing this we have a lot more success. Love your work brother and keep slinging paint
I have a car that needs paint, UV fade and vinyl graphics and a respray of the hood was done that faded x2. 17 years and it is time. Finding someone that takes the job like you do is hard. I don't expect perfection. I just want to as I walk away from the car and look back again at it like I used to. I don't know anyone in my immediate area and every collision shop says they can do but that Hood Respray has me weary. He should have gone over the top of the fenders with the hood and the fade would have not been so noticeable standing around the car. Great Video as always.
I REALLY despise spraying white vehicles ESPECIALLY tri coats! Scuffed White is like a sponge it will absorb dirt , smudges etc. It just SUCKS! But it’s part of the job sometimes. Great video Brian.
Something that takes a long time to get ahold of is comparing variant formulas and knowing how to judge by the toners in it. If you can see the differences in metallics and hues it will save a lot of time doing cards. It might be a difficult topic for a video but maybe something to consider
Thank you for those tips such as look it over. Look with a discerning eye for tape lose. I will be painting one side of my Silverado. Those tips are good to remember.
10:30 In any process, whether it be baking, manufacturing, chemistry, assembling a Subway sandwich, etc, consistency in following instructions is often the most important key to good results.
So yes, using a smartphone (or other) timer is a great suggestion. You cannot improve a process if you're not consistent in performing the process.
Little confused at using plastic right up to work area as it has a static property, but turned out nice man...Totally subscribed.
Brian… fantastic videos! Always looking forward to your next one. Great work!
👏🏻👏🏻🙂
On my white paint jobs , instead of the thinner trick to get rid of smudges , i spray the panel down with waterborne cleaner . While it’s wet , i use 1500 sandpaper and just go over the blend panel real light and then wipe clean . It’s does a great job , it’s quick ,and really doesn’t count as an extra step because I’m cleaning it before paint anyway .
Nice tip. I’ll try that!
@@PaintSociety same goes to you , i never tried the thinner trick or seen anyone else do that . Kudos ! Keep up the great work .
I was lambasted in a paint forum many years ago for using lacquer thinner to clean a panel. You said to use it to clean, so what is the right answer when it comes to lacquer thinner?
Love your videos, I have done body work as a hobby for many years, but your videos gave me the confidence to shoot my first base/clear paint job, metallic no less! Turned out pretty darn good for a rookie.
U use it to clean the smudges n black markings on ur blends that a solvent base cleaner may not get rid of on its own. It only applies to whites cause those smudges cannot be seen in any other color
I just started and i learn how adjustment the regulator! Honestly thanks for your help
Oh the Auto body trade.....Ya gotta love it! It seems the same where ever your working. I am sure you have heard these before. Usually thursday/ friday.,.. "ITS GOTTA GO ITS GOTTA GO TODAY!! Or don't you just love after a paint job then you here the body tech come over and say, hey I messed something up can you look at this!! I have been in the business for 40 years, I have seen it all. You my friend have so many more fun times ahead of you. I wish you the best and stay healthy working around all the chemicals. One last thing, Don't get into spraying airplanes, trust me!! Peace and prosperity my brother. Montana Rick.
I must not have my coat wet enuf at times. I always get some overspray on big flat hoods.
Thanks for all your vids. I,m using them to refresh my hobby.
Spray it wet
Hey Brian. I have a problem waiting for the flash time. I'm going to set my phone like you did. Shop at work is very dusty, So the faster I can lay down all my coats the better. It's cool when I can take $1,000 2014 car from the auction that's totaled stretch it rework it plastic and paint it and put it out front of my bosses shop for $12,000 doing it all myself
lol I used to just pull the hood hang it from the top of the booth, and clear it separate. kept me from dragging the hose across the fenders.
Makes sense !
Always clean panels with thinner first..before sanding and masking
Oh man that looks good! I used to paint with high pressure pump gun, white window frames and steel doors, after half a day you couldn’t tell what was wet or not. Snow blind big time. Was a shock to mix paint by the buckets and not just for paint gun.
Boat gelcoats and spray laminate was my next “painting” job. Dont know how many tons I have sprayed over the years. Now it’s jus occasionally car panel or motorcycle fairing to be sprayed. Still love to paint, there is something really rewarding about it.
Stuff happens... I did an overall on a 96 Mustang rag top. I used a different clear and added urethane reducer to it (I usually do). A month later it will "fingerprint" and it quickly plugs up my wet sandpaper. What a doofus I am!😆
Brain , you are the BEST! Tank's for your advice from all your videos !!!😊
Funny, i just sprayed an older white Honda civic yesterday and i was gonna take my color all the way and butt match it cause the amount of lil smudges n nicks n scratches that were on my blends then i remembered Brian's thinner trick, and it obviously worked perfectly and saved my blends. Also i did notice in the video when you mask theres some areas of exposed tape, imo that's where dust n dirt can get stuck too and land back on the job when you go to clear it.
You can brush touch chips out of the blend area & then clear
Yes you have to make sure your ground coat is on point
90% overlap haha dang, that means every area of the panel gets passed over and sprayed about 9-10 times per coat! 😮😮
Love your videos. You make it look completely effortless, even though it can be a battle at times. Really like your new home garage as well.
Brian, love your videos, used them a lot for inspiration. A tip unrelated to painting, set your camera up on manual focus to avoid these clips that are blurry and the camera is hunting focus.
Hi. I just got a new camera and it has been a big change. The newer videos are much better once I learned how to control the focus. It’s a big change from the go pro.
Thanks my friend is nice to learn from a great master painter as you are I really appreciate it
Im no shrinking vilet when it comes to wrenching on a car. I have done everything on my project car, but paint. the last paint job that was done had water marks, haze, and i just didnt like it. Your video series has given me the confidence to strip and do my car now. epoxy in a few hours!
Sometimes you simply cannot know whether to hire a pro or DIY until after you choose and see the results. The pro has the experience but may not have the passion, as they aren't working on their own stuff. The DIY has the pride and the passion, but not the experience to avoid mistakes. (obviously there are some pros and DIY whose skills and pride fall into the opposite camp)
@@furyfantoo I agree. For me there is a catharsis to doing it myself. The journey so to speak, is valuable to me. I like digging around, learning new stuff, making mistakes and fixing them...Yesterday it was trying to dial my gun and coatings in for the environmental conditions while applying 2k high build primer....Im going to get some trigger time on my beer fridge and riding
lawn mower!
Preparation, preparation, preparation, the paint job is only as good as the foundation it's put upon. Just like a house.
Stunning work Brian, thanks again for the tips. 👍
I love your work, man!
I fine that the hardest thing is to not rush….I use my phone as well, but I’m just a hobbyist. The struggle of feeling like you have to go nonstop 200mph is real.
Love this, As someone that possibly did graffiti, I feel like I see how some running is happening from time to time... the distance of the gun, and the edge treatment, made my brain fire off... I think if you and your team went and tried writing in "flared" letters (on some scrap with some rattle cans), yall would have a fun (learning) experience, about "can control", which is a tone of nozzle work/distance and speed.... it's serious sht.
Do you constantly have the triger pulled on you're paint gun or are you trigering on and off when going into the next pannel?
Your editing and criteria have become very impressive brian.. much respect 🙏 for your time and energy! Have you ever fell in the booth? Every painter has a few stories.
My electric went off in the middle of a paint job
Keep em coming brotha been watching for years love your content!
TImer is very good idea. I'am using the cheapest casio watch for 20$ for it, and works fine.
Brian, have you ever noticed when you run the clear coat it seems to disorientate the basecoat, especially with heavy metallics, or basecoats where the pearl is mixed in with the basecoat as in many HOK products? It appears to me that after sanding out the run, or drape, dependent on how talented I was at overapplying the clear, I can no longer see or feel the run, but I can see the basecoat is irreparably changed and shows that change apparently from the run, if a person knows when, where, and how to look for it. Or, have I had the wrong filters in my respirator and have become mentally "damaged"?
Never had that issue. Maybe if the base isn’t dry enough that can happen ?
I loved my boy from Equador but you are the bomb. Thanx dude
I use a sandwich bag over hand to really feel paint surface condition/imperfections. I know it sounds counterintuitive. Let me know if it increases sensitivity for you. Any concerns that some existing finishes may react badly to lacquer thinner?
Lot of people round me prefer a napkin or a glove to feel the panel. I also think it helps
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
It's not a glamorous job being a spraypainter putting up with crazy customers ungrateful bosses poisonous chemicals but when the spraypainting gods are smiling no better feeling than a job thats comes out good and to be proud of
Super video thank you may I ask when blending the pearl why did you finish just befor the rear door shut why not finish on the door shut????
White Perl job look great. I just have to learn metallic .
I have painted cars for 40 years back when Dulux what's in . I epoxy a paint job onto a car .for real
Brian, my clear is drying to fast and not flowing, I'm using slow hardener, Matrix Edge MH-78S Clear, my booth is not the best and it's hot, any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks man,
Dennis in Geneva FL.
bro, thanks for making us hobbyists not to be scared of paint,
3:00 the "feeling" part should be prior to tape, masking etc ...Great videos man
Ty. Sometimes always there is something last minute that lands on the surface
Good tips! Thank you Brian.
Very informative, you are a true professional
I noticed you always start from the bottom of the panel and work your way up when spraying. Same with hood, start outside and spray to middle. Is there a reason to do it that way or just your preference? I always sprayed top to bottom and middle of hood out.
I'm just an amateur DIY painter with average results. Just wondering if i have been doing it wrong all these years.
Depends on repair & type of booth, downdraft cross-flow etc. Keeping a wet edge is the most important. Also, vehicle large hood & painter has short reach? Some of it is painter habit. I switch it up depending on situation. Painting is very common sense & thinking several steps ahead
On wheels do you clean anyhow the primed surface, or you just paint it. See I primed one side of the wheel (internal), and in many places the prime (I used Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer) was like a layer of chalk. I wiped it out, it was a lot, like a thick layer of dust. Then I just washed that wheel. The primer adhere to some parts (best where there was a bare metal), but not everywhere where is was painted surface. I think maybe I should just go over that primed surface w/paint, so together they would adhere, or I did something wrong. The primer is for Metal and Fiberglass surfaces. When you touch that primed surface, should it stay on your fingers or not? I would appreciate any opinion on this matter, I googled and nothing about it. I know you use application of Glass Cleaner before and between layers of paint, but is it mandatory? The wheels are not aluminum, they got a bit rusted, I removed that rust, prepared surface, but smth went wrong w/Primer, I think. Thank you for this detailed film.
HI , Brian you are great keep doing what you do its really entertaining and educational.
Would you make a video as a guide to falow step by step for the best results , Please.
All the best man
I love stucco base!
Do you move your fluid knob on your clear coat from first coat to second coat. Great vids been learning a lot watching them.
Hey Brian, would you still use a slow reducer in Washington state where it’s a lot colder and humid?
Exactly the amount of cars I have to prep before I could get the spray gun
When I was learning then 3 years after I got to spray my first car it was a running mess
Brian, do you have a video on when you should and shouldn't let off the trigger while painting? Is the answer different for primer, paint, or clear? Thanks!
I’m making one 😀
@@PaintSociety you the man!
Hey I had a question. I want to learn how to use actual paint stuff not just spray cans, but the only air compressor I could get my hands on is only a 5 gallon, 5.0 scfm@40 psi/3.8 sfcm@90 psi. Is that good enough for painting, especially car parts?
Acetone works better than lacquer thinner, oh yeah I've been doing this since 1973 PPG level 3
Loved this video👌🏼👌🏼
My colour basecoat is showing crackling when drying. What am I doing wrong? There is 2-3 coats of high build primer sanded to 600 under it.
Where does a DIYer get good Lacquer paint from. That is not $40 qt. Great content. Spraying is an Art
Can you send me the link where you teach us how to use the speed coat color blender please
What is recommended for a Good flexible primer sealer for plastic bumpers? I have the Seymour PBE Flexible Primer and SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer and they work GREAT! but im looking for Primer Sealers out of a can that I can use next... Either a 1k or 2k but definitely prefer a 2k can that either is activated by moisture in the air, or has a 2 part chamber system inside the can... Any recommendations!
Bulldog clear primer and plastic adhesion promoter in one can. Hands down the best diy can spray.
@@teagan9184 ill have to try that... I know Speedokote T-Rex Bite Kote has also the same adhesion promoter and Primer 2-in-1 product as well AND IT SAYS SEALER!!! I just noticed! And I should be able to go over my SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer now that I have the Primer Surfacer scuffed up with 420 grit Yes? I might actually go over the Surfacer 1 more Time with a 500 grit since I am doing a silver metallic paint but 1st time using the SEM and PBE Flexible Primer products, so not quite sure yet how much they will shrink so figured the 500 Grit would just be a safer bet, even though these are Urethane based flexible Primers im assuming (and NOT a Flexible Polyester Primer, which is more prone to the shrinkage as we all know!) So I should be good... And there are definitely others I know of too just not at the top of my head right now for Sealer Primers, like I said its just the FLEXIBLE SEALERS that are hard to find along with FLEXIBLE CLEAR out of a Can! (Im finding plenty of Base Coat Paints in a can specifically made with flexible agents in them for Bumpers, but the Flexible Primer Sealers and Flexible Clears in a Can seem to be very few and hard to find!!!... I do like the fact that if USING Ocean or UPol (many others) that have the high density flexible filler in BLACK used over black plastic bumpers the clear would be Great if doing Dark Paint jobs that require a Black base and black sealer for less product waste and being able to conserve somewhat on product...
But what I'm tryin to find is not an adhesion promoter and Flexible Primer/Primer Surfacer, but a FLEXIBLE SEALER! That Bulldog is not actually considered a Flexible Sealer but a Clear Flexible Adhesion Promoter/Primer correct?
wow!!!good!!! 🥰 thank you my friend 🙏your youtube channel good contents subscribed + 1👍 happy day 💓
What paint booth temperature are you spraying at when using the extra slow reducer? I’m usually at 65-70 in the shop where I spray.
80-90. Use slow if you’re at 65-70
I am reading that it is highly recommended not to paint basecoat over clearcoat. I have watched many of your videos and you do this on a regular basis. The text says that the basecoat will eventually peal away from the underlying clear and the recommended procedure is to remove all clearcoat. What is your opinion on this?
I have no idea what you’re talking about, this is the way that cars are painted
@@PaintSociety I am learning, so please bear with me. Paint from factory is primer, basecoat, clearcoat. When you are fixing damage and blending you are roughing the clear and blending in basecoat on top of the factory clearcoat. This is what I am talking about, everything I can find says never apply basecoat over clearcoat because it will later peel.
Maybe on un sanded clear
Hey brian.i was wondering y you tape up your paint cup ?up midway to top.with that yellow tape
So the paint doesn’t flake off the cup
I'm looking for good painter to paint the hood, roof and bumper in Central Florida area. Don't want to take my car to high-production or too expensive shops. Anyone recommended?
I have a question about matte paint is there anything special about prep, single stage paint
Hey Brian, great video!
Been a ws400 guy for years. Do you think Sagola is a better gun than WS?
Been very interested in those but no reps in my area have them to try out. Thanks
love the content from Brian and his channel! can i get some guidance on my first paintjob? i dont have a big compressor so I am using an LVLP gun. the subject is an 87 4Runner, not including the top. I will most likely be painting in the early part of the AM and outside, as no access to a booth or covered garage. where should i start my spray? should i walk the sides or just carry the spray over the gaps into the next panels?
Hi mate, I have been watching your videos for a while now and my question is why don’t you start from the middle of the bonnet or the roof and work your way towards the side.That way you reduce the risk of touching wet paint or contaminate the side panels.
great video thanks for sharing your tips and tricks....
Hey Brian do you use extra slow reducer even in the winter?
Awesome tips from experience!
Hey thanks for stopping by!
Can you help me? I'm going to paint my camaro from bare metal. Should I use a DTM high build dealer 1st? I'm just curious what steps I should use. Thank you if you see this.
The finish color will be a white pearl
Can paint lay on bare metal?
Does primer have to be used?
How long do you wait before you take the tape and plastic off?
Thank you for teaching us. I’m curious why you had tape on your paint cup while you shot the hood? Was it to prevent clear leaking on the hood?
To prevent old dried up paint on the cup from flaking into the new paint
Won't laquer thinner take the paint off the car?
Great tips!
Slow down you will go faster in the end. Have you done a video of a blend of a tri coat white pearl that is a bit yellower don't remember the code but I had one that I didn't like but the customer was fine with it.
That sounds like 800J. Just looks dirty to me
I see it all the time using air sanders to wet sand yes I know that saves time but I learns old school from my dad in the 80s when sanding you need to feel the surface take towel and close your eyes and just wipe the panels you will feel imperfections in the surface it's wierd but it's true and it works so I have 2cordless frinderbuffers 1ACDelco 20volt and the other it's little brothers knockoff from harbor freight 12v I've bought hook and loop up to 10,000 but I don't trust them I would rather put my trust in me.